by B.B. Pelletier
Okay, today is a fun day of strolling down memory lane. There is some confusion about the different types of Sheridan Silver and Blue Streaks that have existed over the 57 years that the guns have been made. I thought I would clear this up for you. For those of you who want to put together a real library on airguns, the best single reference I’ve found for Sheridans is Ron Elbe’s book, Know Your Sheridan Rifles and Pistols. It’s available on Amazon both new and used.
This book is the best authority on Sheridan airguns
Three major variations
While there have been hundreds of changes over the more than half-century that Sheridans have been made, there are only three major variants. They’re the thumb safety, the rocker safety and the C9. You really need to know the complex history of the Sheridan company to appreciate these changes. To do that, you should also have the Blue Book of Airguns Fifth Edition.
The thumb safety, 1949-1963
The first safety device Sheridan used was an automatic safety that airgunners today refer to as the “thumb safety.” It was an attempt at making certain the shooter’s hand was correctly positioned on the grip. Otherwise, the spring-loaded thumb button could not be depressed, and the gun could not be fired. There was just one problem. Sheridan positioned this safety about one inch too far forward on the wrist of the rifle for the vast majority of shooters. They could not reach the thumb button without holding the rifle unnaturally.
The thumb safety is really a type of grip safety similar in concept to the one found on M1911 pistols, but poorly executed. Where the 1911 safety is so ergonomic that it’s seldom noticed, the thumb safety on a Sheridan is more like the kill switch on a modern lawnmower – something that assumes a stupid operator and tries to protect the lowest common denominator through design.
The thumb safety had to be held down to shoot the gun. It was inconvenient for most people and was often jammed down permanently.
As a result, a great many of these thumb safety guns have been altered with field fixes to permanently hold down the safety. The easiest method is to jam a wooden toothpick in the slot on one or both sides of the safety button. A very common fix is to drill a small hole in the thumb button for a crosspin so the safety cannot rise out of the stock. The safety was hated so much that relatively few unaltered guns survive today. (Altered guns lose much of their collector value.)
The stock wood on the earliest version is very slim and svelte, giving the rifle the feel of quality when it’s held in the shooting position. It’s also very graceful in profile. From the standpoint of performance, however, it is the same rifle that’s still being sold today, shooting 14.3-grain pellets at 650-675 f.p.s. with eight pumps of air.
The rocker safety, 1963-1990
In February of 1963, Sheridan finally caved in to the criticism of the automatic thumb safety and changed it to a rocker-type. You have to remove the stock to see that both safety buttons are actually two sides of a single rocking mechanism, hence the name. This safety is manual, as all good safeties should be, and it is the most sought-after by shooters.
The rocker safety has a button on the left for “Fire” and one on the right for “Safe.” This is the most coveted of all vintage Sheridan Streak models.
With this model, the stock wood became fatter, giving shooters the feeling of an adult rifle. Only by holding the older thumb safety gun does one know how nice the slimmer stock can feel. The power and accuracy remained the same.
The C9, 1991-present
Now, some quick history. In 1977, the Benjamin Air Rifle Company bought Sheridan, which remained in Racine, Wisconsin, operating as a separate entity. Benjamin joined Sheridan in Racine in 1986. The gun was still called a Sheridan model C. In 1991, Crosman bought Benjamin and quickly began to merge the two lines of airguns through the use of common parts. That’s why the new model C9 looks a lot like a Benjamin 392. There is no distinct date when the names Benjamin and Sheridan were merged into one, but it didn’t take too long. The stock wood is now thicker than ever.
The safety on the C9 is a lever that pulls straight back from the rear of the receiver. It’s a piece of flat steel stock that is bent into a loop at the back. Performance of the gun continues as it always was, so you can still buy a piece of history in 2006!
Hi BB
I recently bought my 11 year old son a commemorative 760 Crosman with a Crosman 4x scope (from Pyramid, of course!). However, I can see that it is underpowered. He really wants to shoot squirrels and rabbits, and the 760 just doesn’t seem up to the task. He is responsible, so I’m not too worried about getting him a more powerful gun. I’m thinking about getting him a .22 caliber rifle, small enough for a kid to handle, but with more power than what is tyically called a “youth rifle”. What do you think about the Benjamin vs. Daisy 22SG? He has vision problems, so a scope is an absolute requirement. It seems that most of the springers that are advertised as being small enough for a kid are really just basement shooters and plinkers. Your thoughts and recommendations?
Thanks
Sam V.
Sam V.
I agree that any springer an 11 year-old boy could handle is probably not good enough for squirrel hunting. The Benjamin 392 is a cut above the Daisy 22SG in terms of the quality of materials and power. But I think it’s going to be too hard for your son to pump up to rabbit-hunting power. The 22SG is a much easier rifle to pump. And it will take those animals if the range is kept to 25 yards or so.
But what about the Benjamin AS392T? It takes almost no muscle power because it runs on an AirSource cartridge. The problem would hunting in cold weather. CO2 doesn’t do well in the cold.
The absolute PERFECT gun for him would the the Talon SS from AirForce, but I realizes it’s three times the prise you were considering.
Now the Crosman 2260 is also a possibility. It’s accurate, powerful enough for any shots you would take with the 22SG. There’s only the cold problem again.
Tough choices. Please tell us what you decide and how it all works out.
B.B.
Thanks B.B.
I’ll let you know. I’m leaning toward the 22SG because of the combination of pumping ease, adequate knock-down power under 30 yards, overall small size, and the included scope.
Thanks
Sam V.
Great post BB..This is one I can use as I shop the yard sales and flea markets. I should probably break down and get the Blue Book…but think about doing a breakdown on the 760s too…between those two guns you’re going to cover 2/3rds of everybodys first guns. so they are out there.
looking forward to another good year of blogs.
Speaking of the 760 commemorative…
Mine just arrived today. My oh my how the quality has changed! I’m afraid to shoot it at max pump as it feels like it would fall apart. Is anyone else left with the same impression? Also the front site is mounted a about 22 degrees to the left, the “American hardwood” stock is plastic, and does not match up with the main body by almost 1/4 inch.
I seriously doubt this will ever be a classic or appreciate in value over time even though it is a numbered limited edition. The barrel has #959 on it, Anybody have the same #? Did I get scammed?
760 commemorative,
The stock IS hardwood, but Crosman chose to paint it with a nondescript tan paint that I don’t care for. The gun in the picture shows some grain which I thought was the way it would come.
The rotated front sight is unforgiveable. I would communicate directly with Crosman to see what can be done about it. If you do, please let us know what they say.
I agree the fit and finish leave something to be desired. But it will increase in value if the condition remains pristine and the box and all the stuff stays with it.
B.B.
BB,
Do you think I should get this front site fixed, or being as though I never planned on actually shooting this gun and the fact that it came from Crosman like this would it be worth more in the future as is?
I was going to put a couple of pumps in it and leave it in the box. What do you think?
The box was kind of beat on and showed signs of being opened and reclosed, but everything appears to be there.
dsw
dsw,
No, I thought you were wanting to shoot the gun. I would leave it as-is and keep everything together.
And thaks for reminding me to pump mine a couple of times. I forgot!
B.B.
BB,
I heard back from Crosman and they said they would fix the error, no problem.
Do you think I should ship it to ’em for the fix or just leave it alone?
If Crosman fixes the site do you think they will repackage the gun? Like maybe new styrofoam and tape? Maybe a new box?
dsw
dsw,
Tough decision. But think of it like this. Crosman, the company who made the gun, wants to put yours right. How can that be anything but good? It’s like Colt cutting off the barrel of Bat Masterson’t Peacemaker flush with the ejector housing, then deciding to make it a standard item.
As for the box, etc, if you act finicky and subservient at the same time, I bet they would do almost anything for you.
B.B.
The Crosman fix: I thought so too.
The Peacemaker combaro: Love it!
thanks
dsw
Dear Mr. B.B. Pelletier,
First, I love your nom-de-blog!
Second, thanks for the informative safety discussion–now I can date my heirloom Sheridan between 1949 and 1963 since it has the tang safety (unaltered).
Now, most importantly: I shoot this working piece of history with my almost 12 year old son who is legally blind. I have been advised that laser technology would help him shoot. He can usually hit a can at 7 years with the iron sights, but a laser might improve his accuracy (and confidence) at 7 yards and help him get hits on target at further distances.
What types of laser devices can I easily fit to this air rifle? I’d like to avoid any drilling etc. that would damage the rifle.
I thank you in advance for any help you can give.
Perpster
Perpster,
Before I make a recommendation, let’s be sure that it’s a laser you want and not a dot sight.
I have never mounted a laser on this model, but with Crosman’s Intermount, it should be easy.
Go to this address to see what I’m talking about:
/product/crosman-b272-4-pc-intermount-3-8-dovetail?a=191
Once the Internount is clamped to the barrel, any laser that will fit an 11mm or 3/8″ dovetail will work. And nothing is permanent.
Keep that Sheridan in good shape and don’t forget to always store it with one or two pumps in it, to keep the valves closed.
B.B.
B.B.,
Thanks for the reply. I looked at the Pyramid page and have a couple of questions.
First, the item description says “This 4-Piece Intermount fits (current production) Benjamin and Sheridan air rifles and air pistols.” Would that apply to this vintage model, too?
Second, if I mount this would I still be able to use the iron sights for myself while it’s mounted?
In another vein, if this setup works for him I’d like to get him his own suitably equipped air rifle as a 12th birthday present (birthday is in March). Cost IS an issue. Do you have any suggestions?
I don’t know whether a laser or a dot sight would work better for him. Since eyeglasses are not any help I guess a scope won’t either but I’m not sure. His main problem is neurological in that his eyes never stay still. They’re always “flicking” side to side. Sometimes barely noticeable, other times like watching a typewriter carriage go back and forth. Net effect is his retinas never get a steady image to focus on. It’s called nystagmus. My uneducated guess is that he’d have an easier time with both eyes open and looking at the target with the bright red light on it. I hope this makes sense.
Perp
PS: Thanks for the storage tip; I didn’t know about keeping 1-2 pumps in it while stored.
Perp,
The Intermount should fit the older barrel, too. I don’t think there’s been that much change over the years. If it’s loose, a business card as shim stock inside, between the mount and the barrel, should tighten it up.
The open sights will be masked by the Intermount.
For your son, as long as we are talking multi-pump pneumatics, how about a Daisy 22SG? You can take the scope off and mount the laser directly to the dovetails of the receiver – again, no open sights with the laser on. This is a great rifle and it’s budget priced. Best of all, it’s easier to pump than the Sheridan. A .177 X is even cheaper and it’s the same gun except for the caliber.
I did a report on it a while back. Find it with the Google search function on today’s blog page.
BB,
I’ve been reading many of your previous bloggings and am now wondering which would be better with my son in mind, the Daisy 22SG or 953?
It would be used almost exclusively for plinking and targets; rarely if ever for hunting.
It occurs to me that the more immediate feedback-correction loop of shooting a single pump with 5 shot clip might help him adjust and learn more quickly than the “break in the action” of single shot and multiple pump.
What do you think, sir?
erpster,
I misunderstood. Yes, the 953 is great, but now you have a WONDERFUL opportunity to get an IZH 61. Five shots, easier to cock, and more accurate than the 953. I think it would be perfect for what you are doing.
B.B.
Hmmmm. I like to buy American whenever possible, but if the IZH would be better for him under the circumstances…
Out of the IZH 61, Daisy 953 and Daisy 22SG, for plinking and target shooting at 25 or so yards or less (mostly 7 to 15 yards), would you recommend any one more than the rest (just to be sure I’m understanding correctly)?
Do all 3 accept laser sights easily?
Again, THANK YOU for this excellent blog!!!
BB,
I’m looking at the IZH 61 manual online and see it is a spring-piston rifle. Previous blogs refer to more difficult shooting technique with such guns. Will that be a problem in my son’s case??
Perp
Perp,
You’re writing them faster than I can answer them!
The IZH is perfect at the midranges you quoted. It is a sub-500 f.p.s. gun, which makes it the slowest of the three.
Though it is a springer, it is the most forgiving springer around. Your son will have no problems that way.
The laser mounting question hinges on the bases on the gun. All three we are discussing, the 22SG, the .177X and the IZH 61, have the dovetails you need to clamp to. And the open sights will be blocked on all three when the laser is attached.
I recommend the IZH 61 for pure plinking fun. You and your son will love it.
B.B.
Thanks again, BB. I will try to type at fewer fps in future posts.
hello, i have an old bb repeater made by benjamin,do you have any info on this gun? it has a tube and a bolt on it with a magnet that picks up the bb. any info would be helpful
Perp-
Just read your post. I am very nearsighted and legally blind in one eye. Although I benefit from scopes, I do use iron and especially like peep sights. A peep sight might work in a similar fashion to a typoscope (card with a rectangular hole, to view one word or line at a time) that has been used to help kids with nystagmus to read.
I shoot mostly across my basement. I use a high intensity desk light to shine on target as spotlight. Helps me a lot. (So far have not hit it – not so lucky with basement window:) I do not like targets with black bulls eye becomes hard to distinguish from front sight as not enough contrast. I have found I especially like to shoot at things – plinking I guess.
I read recently of a boy with nystagmus shooting with his dad and he was taking a long time between shots. When his dad asked him why it was taking him so long to shoot, his son replied that each time he shot he had to count over from the first target on the left because that was the only way he could locate his target.
I have been teaching my 12 year old daughter to shoot. with IZH-61 (spring side lever) and Crosman 1077 (CO2). She is not a very physically active kid but she can cock the IZH-61 keeping it at her shoulder. The IZH-61 does have some recoil. The Crosman does not really have any. The Crosman 1077 is semi-automatic so can just pull trigger to continue to fire (12 shot rotary clip). I have the airsource attachment but it makes the gun heavier and right now easier for her with regular CO2 cartridges.
A laser works by just putting the dot on the target. You do not have to sight down the barrel just look at target. My only complaint is that I have had a difficult time adjusting one of these things. Works great in basement not sure how well outside in daylight.
I use a Taco Red Dot Scope on a Crosman 357 pistol. It is pretty good and can adjust light dot very bright. To use red dot scope you do have to look through a low power scope device and place “dot” on target. It is kind of an illusion as the dot really just appears on lens of the scope nothing actually on target. I am not sure of head or eye movement your son may have and how easy or difficult it may be to looking through a scope device would be.
Good luck teaching your son, I have a son with a form of autism and probably will not be able to teach him to shoot. I have enjoyed teaching my daughter but lately she has preferred to do other things. She can always pick it up and I am glad she knows how to safely handle and shoot an air gun or firearm. I learned to shoot in 1968 as a kid and was away from shooting a long time but never forgot the basic rules of gun safety, or how to shoot:)
Ray
Ray/YARZAK,
Thank you for such a detailed comment. You should write a blog!
B.B.
I have a sheridan .20 cal pump with a rocker safety as shown above. I am looking for a rebuild kit. If I charge the weapon and hunt for rabbits within 3 min the air charge is down. Do you know how I can repair it? Also my family has several more of these and I would like ti repair them all. ericf@hollandcustom.com
Eric,
There are no kits available to the public, as far as I know. You might ask Crosman if they will sell you one, but they usually only sell parts to authorized repair stations.
Please let me know how it turns out.
B.B.
I have been trying to find information about my beloved first airgun, a Crosman .22 that closely resembles the current Sheridans.
It was manufactured in the 70’s (?)and was a multipump, bolt action single shot with a short barrel and a walnut stock.
Unlike the Sheridans, it did not have a bulge in the forestock and the rear sight had a ratcheted slide to adjust windage. The bolt did not extend past the receiver when pulled back for loading.
This gun was a real treasure and very accurate. It made all of my friends with Crosman 760’s green with envy because of it’s power, being .22 caliber, it’s accuracy, and because it looked lik a “real” gun in proportions and the wood stock. I remember watching BB’s from a 760 bounce off a pidgeon, and then shooting this Crosman – the pidgeons were knocked backwards and never required a second “mercy” shot.
Unfortunately this gun was stolen from me 20 years ago. When I decided to get back in to pellet guns I intended to just get another one of these. After I realised they were not available, I got a Gamo Shadow 1000 instead. I am happy with the Gamo, but I got excited when I discovered the Sheridans on PyramidAir.com and thought I had found it – especially when I saw the Crosman connection.
Turns out they aren’t the same gun after all. Maybe mine was a Crosman imitation of the Sheridans. I feel that it was an all time classic and it would still be a relevant gun if still available.
I suspect you owned a Crosman 1400. It has many of the features you describe.
I’ll try to fit in a posting of one this coming week, so watch this blog .
B.B.
Are you aware of any place one can get parts for “old” pre 1970 Sheridans?
Denny,
No parts for sale that I know of for the vintage guns. The repair centers make many of their own parts.
B.B.
in regards to Erics Post on February 05, 2006 5:15 PM, I just obtained a rebuild kit & the special tool needed to repair it for $47.70 (including shipping) from Bryan and Associates at this web address: http://www.bryanandac.com/ I have a 1979 “C” model .20 caliber Sheridan that was doing the same thing. Happy Trails….:-)
I bought a,
Daisy CO2 300.
Reg.no. 4767
Daisy Mfg.co. in Rogers Ark, USA.
pat.no. 3,000,371
I’m looking for any Info. about this Semi-Auto BB gun.
THANK YOU
bambamman,
The Daisy 300 is a carbine version of the 200 pistol. It’s a true semiautomatic action that Daisy made between 1968 and 1975. The value is low, and the guns do not hold up over time. When they do fail, there is no one who can reseal them.
B.B.
I’ve been hunting squirrels off and on for 35 years with my Sheridan silverstreak bought in 1972 for $47. It is a fantastic shooter. Six pumps is usually enough unless depending upon range. The weight of the 5mm (.20 cal) pellet gives tremendous hitting power.
There were 4 of us in the neighborhood that had Sheridans back then, either blue or silverstreak. All of us still own and shoot our rifles mainly for pest control. I highly recommend the Sheridan for hunting squirrels.
My one caution is that the person who wants the Sheridan makes sure that they can pump it up as after 3 pumps it is likely a 13 year old or older will be able to pump it to 8 pumps. Another thing about the Sheridan is the force necessary to pull the bolt back to lock it to load the pellet. It takes a fast motion rather than a slow pull. For adults the pumping force nor the bolt force should be a concern.
I have a second-generation Sheridan Blue Streak, and I can attest to the quality of this pump pneumatic.
I only have two real issues with this old classic.
The first is that the front sight blade is about half as wide as it needs to be to fill the notch in the rear sight in order to make an accurate shot easier.
The second issue is that it can be quite tough to pump up past the fourth pump, which is no problem for an adult, but for an airgun with a youth-proportioned wood stock, youngsters will probably find it tiring.
However, I REALLY like the excellent rocker safety, which locks the trigger completely with not even a hint of rearward movement once engaged.
The trigger itself is particularly impressive, which (at least on this one) is amazingly smooth, has a short pull, and I would estimate is set to no more than three pounds.
As a matter of fact, I have yet to fire any other gun – from airguns to dozens of different firearms – that has a better trigger.
I truly love my Ruger M77 .30-06, but I can only imagine how much more I would if it had this incredible Sheridan trigger.
It really is THAT good.
Did I mention that I like this trigger?
😉
Oh, and the accuracy is astonishing, especially when considering using those somewhat poor iron sights.
I was only able to see just how accurate it can be when I found a dealer with a stock of the apparently now-discontinued Sheridan brand diablo pellets.
How do < 2-inch 25 yard groups grab you?
Let’s hope it lives on for decades to come.
Most of the comments I’ve seen about the Sheridan Blue Streak have been about the pump rifle. I got my Blue Streak in 1977 but it is a CO2 version. After about 10 to 15 years of closet duty, I tried it out on July 4,2007 and like it’s name…it shot up a blue streak. The sights and bolt action were working like it was new. My oldest grandson and I had a great time shooting. I think it will be still shooting like trooper when the youngest grandson learns to shoot as well. Job well done Sheridan!
I was about to say that your rifle is not called a Blue Steak, but I read in Elbe’s book that it is.
Be sure to use a drop of Pellgunoil on the tip of each new powerlet you install.
So I learned something today.
B.B.
BB
I have borrowed an old Sheridan air rifle. From the descriptions, it is one of the ’49 to ’63 bolt-action models with a thumb safety (unaltered). I told my friend I would oil it up and check it out for him, but before I go any further, I need a way to identify a model number, or more important, whether it is a .20 or .22 caliber before I order my new stock of ammuniton. There are no model or caliber markings on it. Any help would be appreciated. JP
JP,
All Sheridans are .20 caliber. The only .22s Sheridan ever made were prototypes of the very first guns, but the company has never made a .22-caliber pellet rifle for sale.
Your rifle is simply designated a model C.
B.B.
I have an old “rocker safety” style CO2 sheridan. the seals must be bad in it, because all of the CO2 leaks out as soon as the first shot is fired.
how do you get the gun apart to replace the o-rings? does the end of the cylinder press in, or screw in? the pins came out very easily.
Thanks
D, Shade,
I do not advise anyone who is not familiar with the design to disassemble pneumatic or CO2 airguns. However, if you want to, you’ll have to find schematics. They should be available on the internet.
The cylinder you refer to sounds like the valve. If that’s what you mean, the end is screwed in and requires a speciual deep spanner to remove.
B.B.
B.B,
I recently came across what appears to be a Sheridan model C with thumb safety (still works). However, there is no manufacturer name or model designation on the rifle. The only words on the rifle are by the safety: “Hold down to fire.”. Did Sheridan not put their name on their early rifles? Thanks in advance. Your blog is always interesting.
Clarke
Sorry for asking a question about this year-old blog entry…do you know the pressure and air reservoir volume of a Benjamin Sheridan air rifle? I’ve been searching everywhere, and couldn’t find anything…
Mel,
Unless the gun is a model 600, 700, 710 or 720 there is no reservoir. The valve itself holds the air.
B.B.
Sorry BB, I meant the “reservoir” of the valve – quite a translation mistake, (I’m from Germany – by the way, my grandparents live exactly where you were stationed!) – and another proof why so much caution must be exercised when using the correct airgun termini…
So my question was “Do you know, by chance, the valve volume and pressure of a fully charged Benjamin Sheridan?”
Any many thanks for answering even questions on year-old topics! You must have quite a day doing so?
Mel,
I had no idea you lived in Germany! Your English is so perfect. Of course Germans always speak better English than Americans.
Grüss Gott! (or should I say Weidmann’s Heil)?
I answer comments on all 960 + (as of today) blogs every day. Sometimes I answer as many as 100 messages throughout the day.
I am not sure of the internal volume of the valve, but it is small. I would guess between 10 cc and 25 cc.
B.B.
Many thanks! I rather think the volume is between 1.5 and 2.5cc – I’ll find out..
Keep up the great work! It’s always a joy to read this blog.
I have a Sheridan Silver Streak made in Racine, Wisconsin. The barrel has begn to separate from the spring/pump chamber. The gun has been fired very little….probably less than 200rounds in it’s lifetime. Is this a common problem and can it be repaired.
Rich Royal
Also check “MAC1” air gun shop he makes parts and custom airguns from Hi End Extreme field target to Crosman #1 pistols. He also has most everything needed for a spump Streak and rebuilds them into a “Steroid Model” , I have bought parts and a Steroid Blue Streak Rebuild and its all been good. He also can re-solder a Streak, has moderators for them and mine does not scare squirrels except the one your shooting at, he is not scared either for other reasons. Takes 3 or 4 to make good chili.
Oh BB I have a wide target trigger for a Tempest/Hurricane if you would like it. Am looking for a set of Beeman Combat grips for mine.
Respectfully
An Avid Reader
BSAmike,
Thanks for the offer of the trigger shoe. I have one. Works very well, too.
B.B.
Rich,
I’m sorry to break the news, but a solder separation in the Blue Streak is usually a fatal flaw. It’s usually caused by the use of an intermount whose legs pop the barrel away from the lower tube. It can also be caused by rough removal of the rear sight.
This man has some limited success with fixing a broken solder joint if the separation hasn’t gone too far:
B.B.
B.B.,
I have a Sheridan Model C Blue Streak with the "Hold Down" thumb safety. It's been in the family for years and I've finally taken it in to get the seals repaired. I was told by the repair shop that it was a "collectors dream" and didn't realize the history until reading your blog. The rifle is in good condition and the thumb safety has never been modified (we used to tape it down with electrical tape). I plan on letting my kids use it, but was curious to the value.
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff,
In the condition mine is in, it's worth $225-250. That's not from a book but from actual observation at airgun shows.
B.B.
Thanks BB. Excellent blog.
-Jeff
in early sept, i found a very, good to excellent condition "C" searies Blue Streak, the gun shop had a $69.95 tag on it, but as a very good customer, i got it for $43.19 out the door, if i have been doing my home work "Gunbroker.com" has them going for around $150.00 or so, mine has all the black paint still intact on the barrel and lower tube, wood has 2-3 small dings and does not appear to have a clear coating on the wood, and NO butt plate, rocker safety, the ser # puts it in the 1980 or so production…..so the question is if they are going for 150.00 on gunbroker what might it be worth to thoes at the air gun shows, collectors in this condition. Kev.
Kevin,
Blue Streaks go for $100-150 at airgun shows. It's more a function of how much the seller wants to sell than anything.
Good deal, by the way!
B.B.
Mr. Pelletier,
I also have a Sheridan 5mm Pellet Rifle, purchased new in the mid-60's, so most probably a Model C Sheridan, and not a "Benjamin-Sheridan" nor a "Crossman-Benjamin-Sheridan". It has the "rocker" safety, and very beautiful walnut stock, but without the "beaver-tail"? in the fore-end, (the fore-grip is straight.)
It's been borrowed, and who knows how abused — I swear I never put more than 7, maybe 8 pumps in it, but I'm a pretty strong man; but after 7 pumps, it never got any stronger than that, so what is the point, that's always been good enough for me.
So my problem is, and ALL OF A SUDDEN!, it just will not hold more than a single pump of air?! I don't quite understand this: I can empty the chamber to no air, so it's not a valve-lock, but I can still put in one pumb of pressure — just no more, no more does anything more than just one. So, I figured that I needed a rebuild kit. I don't know, but; I can't seem to find one! Pyramid Air offers rebuild kits — but not for the pre-C9 models.
Now, "anonymous" said in answer to "Eric's" post, that he got the seals and tool from Bryan and Associates, and gave the web address. Is this what I need, and will it work?
This was a very nice rifle, until it quit on me, so I'd very much like to repair it, and I'd very much appreciate your advise.
Ceaubois,
You might get a repair kit here:
Ron Sauls
http://www.bryanandac.com/
864-261-6810
or here:
Either of these places can repair your rifle for you, which is the better way to go, because they know things a first-time person won't.
B.B.
In 1967 I got a well used Blue Streak made in Racine Wisconsin that has a steel rod for a bolt handle and the thumb safety. I've never had a problem with the safety, but had to put a pre-1995 Pyramid Air repair kit in it in late 2010. After a seal in front of the valve guide that wasn't included finally let go and started leaking air through the barrel while pumping in mid 2011, I used some Permatex black silicon sealer to make a replacement, no more air leak. What remains of the bluing is original, after getting the air leak fixed I refinished the stocks with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil as there was no remaining original wood finish. They built this one very well I'd say to last as long as it did before needing new seals and piston cup.
I've had my "blue streak" since I was around 10 years old and even now @ 41 I'm still amazed @ how absolutly powerful, accurate & deadly this thing is! I have hunted and taken more squirls with it than y'all could even emagine. The devistating effects of a 5.5mm pellet on these critters is little short of a 22 long rifle bullet and should never reach the hands of the untrained. The only question I have about my shreidan is that I'm not sure of the date of manufacture on this one, the SN# is 010190. I'm going out on a limb and guessing mid to late 60's but not really sure, any help on this would greatly be appreciated, thanks guys
sorry, did'nt mean 5.5mm…lol
Blue Streak owner,
I was nice to hear from you. I'm glad your rifle is performing well.
Welcome to the blog.
B.B.
First post. Love my 5mm built in 1981. This is my second as my uncle has my first one. The one I have now I got 3yrs ago. Finish on it was on the poor side. Have since refinished stock and barrel. Don’t have rear sight or the plastic pieceon barrel. Scope and mnts. Will penetrate gallon jug @ 33yds.
This blog and the Pyramidair website has been a great discovery for this owner of a 60’s era (rocker safety) Sheridan Blue Streak. If I remember, it was a birthday gift from my dad when I was about 9, 1964 or so. I’ve used it for small game and target shooting for years, and it’s a beaut. However, I have moved a few times in recent years and it’s been in the gun case, cleaned occasionally, but not used. I decided that it might be good to get it out recently, see if it was still holding air, and it’s not. After some digging, I found Pyramidair and a kit that will let me fix this old, faithful companion. The kit is here…/product/benjamin-sheridan-repair-kit-fits-some-pre-1995-multi-pump-guns-w?a=624
A question I have that I have not been able to solve is… What pellets will still work in my gun? I only have a dozen or so of the old Sheridan .5mm pellets left. The world of pellets is big, and confusing. Any help would be wonderful. Thank you…
I purchased àn 1963 Silver Streak and the rear sight screw is missing. Can you tell me te correct length, and thread size pf the screw?
Thanks
Jerry
Jerry,
I haven’t got a clue. You need to ask the guys on the Crosman Forum. One of them will have the rifle and should be able to tell you.
http://www.network54.com/Forum/275684/
B.B.
I have an old sheridan blue streak with the thumb safety. It is in good shape, but has intermittently and recently been causing the pellet to stick in the barrel, and not emerge, using about 4 pumps. It is just as hard to pump as it ever was. Does this mean there is no air leak? What could be the problem? It is not had severe use. Also, when reinstalling the small coil sprng which mounts transversely in the bolt I manged to drop it on my basement floor, and as yet I’ve not found it, so I’ve been using it without that small spring. The bolt feels very slightly looser without the spring, but the o-ring at the front of the bolt appears to be sealing ok. Could the missing spring be contributint to any kind of air leak? Should I try scrubbing the barrel with a wire brush and then lightly oiling it? Can you tell me where to order a replacement spring? Many thanks for this good website and for any advice you may offer.
Van,
No, the transverse spring tensions the bolt and should have nothing to do with air loss.
It sounds like your valve seal has dried out. If you didn’t store the gun with a pump of air that could have happened. Also did you oil the pump head with Crosman Pellgunoil every 6 months? The pump head is probably hardened with age and not generating the compression it once did. Time alone will do that.
Your gun needs to be resealed. Send it to an airgunsmith like this man:
B.B.
BB as long as you care to write I will read them all. The treasure trove of of solid facts, stories heard at the bench, huddles at gun shows and working around the industry and shooting will be missed when you decide to ” GONE FISHING INSTEAD OF JUST A WISHING” like Herald Ensely a fixture in the hunting and fishing scene in KCMO for 40 or 50 years hung up his waders and went bamboo pole and bobber fish-n counting the clouds going by.
Wish the head recorders were here so you could tell stories and write some books! While testing the first testing the first
5000fps, Mag-rail, Printed Solar Cell, Penimude Profile, Titanium and Hall effect trigger Varmint getter!! When your finished I would like to buy it.
Respectfully
BSAmike
BSAmike,
Welcome to the blog.
B.B.