BAM B51 – Part 2 A look at the “Chuntsman”

by B.B. Pelletier

Part 1

Well, a very interesting day. You will recall that yesterday I checked the pressure in the BAM B51 and used a hand pump to add another 100 psi. I wasn’t sure that it was needed, because the gauge I used yesterday was different than the one I used to fill it initially a week earlier.

Out to the range
I packed up all my gear – rifle, targets, pellets, bench bag, carbon fiber tank, a pump to back that up, chronograph and skyscreens and shooting bench – and drove to the range. Got there, set up everything and decided to chronograph some pellets first. First shot with .22-caliber Beeman Kodiaks didn’t trigger the skyscreens, but the sound it made was similar to a blowgun being fired, as in very quiet. That’s never a good sign with an unsilenced PCP. Next shot registered 383 f.p.s. I knew for sure something was wrong.

Heed the warnings
There are warnings all over the internet not to exceed 3,000 psi with these BAM pneumatic rifles, so I thought the gun might be suffering from valve lock. But how could that be, when I just told you I had topped off the gun to 3,000 psi? As I’ve mentioned before, small pressure gauges don’t always read correctly and some guns can be severely affected by being overpressurized just a few hundred psi.

I dry-fired the gun several times, hoping to hear the report increase as I shot. It didn’t. It became quieter! The gun was out of air! I refilled it from the carbon fiber tank, and it seemed that it was almost empty. You can tell that because you can hear the inlet valve in the rifle pop open when the air pressure in the fill hose overcomes the pressure in the gun’s reservoir. I thought it did at about 200 psi. Again, I took it back up to 3,000 psi and then back to the chronograph.

Use a cheaper pellet
This time, I used Gamo Hunter pellets because they’re cheaper. I wanted to establish that the rifle was operating before shooting my more expensive Kodiaks. First shot was 407 f.p.s. – well under expectations. Second shot was 206! The gun had run out of air once more. Several dry-fires after that shot confirmed my fears.

Between the evening before and the morning I went to the range, this rifle may have become a leaker. I’m describing what happened so you can relate to this problem if you ever have it. I hope those of you who are thinking of getting into precharged pneumatics are paying attention to this.

What to do?
Okay, I may have a leaker, and a fast leaker at that. I could just stop right there, but now I will to try to solve the problem. When a rifle goes from holding to leaking overnight, as this one seems to have done, the problem is often because a stray piece of dirt or debris in the reservoir has gotten on the valve seal. If I could get the rifle to hold air, I would shoot it without a pellet repeatedly, hoping to blow the dirt out. But I can’t seem to do that.

I filled the male Foster fill nipple with Crosman Pellgunoil and then filled the rifle to 1,000 psi with my carbon fiber tank. I was hoping that the Pellgunoil would be blown into the reservoir and perhaps get on the seals, where the dirt would be floated off. This is a very long-shot proposition with about a 10 percent chance of success. It won’t fix an O-ring that may have sprung a leak. However, when I tried to fill the reservoir the pressure gauge went up too fast for the rifle to be empty. The Pellgunoil was gone, but no air seems to have flowed into the rifle.

Do NOT add Crosman Pellgunoil to a precharged pneumatic airgun as mentioned in the paragraph above. I have learned that someone once received a petroleum specification sheet with the Pellgunoil they bought that indicated it was straight 30-weight non-detergent oil. If that is true, it is very dangerous to introduce petroleum oil into a vessel containing compressed air. It can form a fuel-air mixture and become explosive. I believed that Pellgunoil is a synthetic product with a high flashpoint, but there is a good chance I AM MISTAKEN.

Incorrect diagnosis?
It turns out I may have been wrong about the rifle being out of air. It may in fact be valve-locked, after all. At the range I wasn’t able to hear the fill because of some noisy compressors, but in my office at home I did hear well. Air is not escaping from the rifle anywhere. And the reservoir didn’t get warm as I filled it – a sure sign the gun is not accepting air. Add to that all the warnings about over-filling this model and I think I may have the problem.

Here’s what I am saying. If the valve in the rifle I have cannot function with even 3,000 psi, then I may have caused valve lock by pressurizing it to that level. Either that or the inlet valve is stuck and refusing to open for some reason. The few low-powered shots I did get at the range have me wondering.

Here’s my plan. I’m going to stand the rifle in the corner and attempt a dry-fire every day or two. If I ever get one with air coming out, I will continue until the sound grows loud. I will do that for a week. If that fails to work, then, with Pyramyd Air’s knowledge and permission, I will disassemble the powerplant and see if the valve stem deflects down under any kind of hand pressure. If not, I’ll use a rubber mallet and a long piece of hardwood to rap out the excess air that’s in the reservoir.

When there is something additional to report, I will tell you.

53 thoughts on “BAM B51 – Part 2 A look at the “Chuntsman”

  1. BB,

    Sorry to hear about all your woes with that BAM.
    As an earlier poster pointed out, and I hate to throw cold water on this, but it looks as if Chinese workmanship is a real crapshoot.
    My first spring airgun that I bought this year, a Crosman Sierra Pro, was utter junk, unable to stay on target for more than a dozen shots at a time, finally opening up to at least 8 inches @ 25 yards.
    It was made in China, and I returned that piece of scrap metal.


  2. BB,

    I’d like to find and continue our conversation from yesterday about “9mm vs .50″ but I can’t seem to find it now. Can you point me to it?

    Thanks
    Tedd



  3. BB

    i will try to describe a problem i am having as i have run out of ideas. I am shooting at a square card (7 inches by 7) and on that card is 5 small circles (2 inches diameter). The circles are then the usual affairs with numbers from 5 to 10 (the bulls eye).
    I sight in at the centre one (they are arranged the same as the 5 dots in a die) and can pretty much put 5 pellets through the same hole. When i move on to the other 4 targets i usually get 1 or 2 of them spot on, with the groups on, or touching the bullseye (4 mm). However, the other 2 targets i get great grouping, BUT its off the bull by 10mm or so. For your info, its not always the same targets that do this either?? Each target needs the rifle to be slightly moved, and angled slightly dofferently, but were only talking a tiny amount. Its driving me mad!!!!!

    Paul



  4. Meanwhile, back at the ranch . . .

    the continuing saga of scoping the Webley Tomahawk . . .

    Well, the B Square rings fit with no problem. New Problem – scope bell will not allow tube to seat in front mount – too large. So options are another scope, or another mount – I’m going with mount for now.

    Feel like Prince Charming finding Cinderella – grrr, this better have a happy ending.


  5. paul, I know you asked bb, but this sounds like a case of parallex and body position. u may not be aware but if you are not paying attention, your body position or head placement may not be the exact same when shooting left/right/up/down as it is when you are shooting straight out/on.


  6. sometimes when i need to shoot left/right/up/down, i first aim straight out, then twist my body at the waist to put the crosshairs on target. one other trick is i not only focus on the crosshairs, but when I look through the insides of the scope i pay attention on whether the inner scope walls optically make a perfect circle in my view, and this is the way i sight in also.


  7. Re Webley Tomahawk….
    I’ve had no good luck with BSquare mounts on the Tommie. Mine was pro tuned and still enough recoil to move mounts backward on it.

    The only mounts I’ve seen to hold up well on a Tomahawk is the BKL 260.

    Save yourself a lot of frustration and just get one and be done with it.

    Rob in NC






  8. B.B.–Scott 298 here -how has your summer been going? Just read your reports on the rws 460 mag-I own the 350 in .177. The million dollar question, if you could buy just one air rifle and your only 2 picks could be the 460 mag or the tx200 whic would it be, what cal. and why—thanks Scott298


  9. Scott298,

    As for the two-rifles-only game, are you thinking of buying one? I vote for the TX 200. It’s stunningly accurate, has the best trigger in the spring gun game, is finished to within an inch of its life and it lasts forever because it is understressed.

    If you can’t afford a Whiscombe, get a TX.

    B.B.


  10. Thanks guys – looks like it might just be easier buying a scope with smaller objective – may already have a Simmons air scope with a smaller objective. Anyway, I’ve been beating this topic to death – sorry and thanks for all your answers / suggestions.

    New Question: How long can a person leave a springer cocked and not have damage occur to mainspring? 10 minutes? An hour? A day? If you have a chance, weigh in on this. Hunting with an unloaded springer is a hassle.


  11. Cocked,

    Tom Gaylord did a test in which he left a Beeman R1 cocked for one month. He tested it periodically throughout the 735 hours. This was done with the gun tuned with four different mainsprings, and the results are a chapter in his R1 book.

    The Weihrauch factory spring didn’t start losing power until hour 9. It wound up at 94 percent of its initial power after being cocked for a month.

    B.B.


  12. Great site, interesting posts, I have a .177 R1, and a .22 B26-2. Haven’t shot either yet, and understand you have to test for which pellets are most accurate. Wonder which pellets would be the most likely candidates from anybody with these?

    Also, going to try Crosman Premiers, is there a difference in accuracy with the hollowpoints and the domes? THANKS


  13. Thank you for that answer on mainspring compression time. A long time ago, I had hunted with my RWS 45, and had left it cocked all morning. Only later to realize that leaving springers cocked for long periods of time is not a good idea – I thought I had done damage to it.

    Note to self – BUY A CHRONY AND BE DONE WITH IT!

    Ever since that time, I will leave them loaded for about an hour max, shooting pellet into ground and reloading. And only this when really hunting – if only hiking to area, I’ll load pellet into breech, and stop there, levering only when hunt is about to begin.


  14. Pellet guy,

    Always try JSB Exacts (domed) and Beeman Kodiaks. They are the most accurate on over 90 percent of the rifles.

    Whewn I tested Permiers against Premier hollowpoints there was very little difference in accuracy.

    B.B.


  15. BB

    parallax issue

    No, im shooting with a scope, and i know its not the scopes problem. I also suspected it could be a hold issue, so i am careful not to change that. I also try my hardest to keep my head in exactly the same position, and i use a powerful FT scope and that is zoomed right in to its max X50. No matter what i try, i cant seem to get the 5 groups all around the 5 bulls. How do you suggest i fix this?

    Paul


  16. Paul,

    Now I’m very certain it’s either parallax of muscle strain. By running at 50 power and shooting so close, you are introducing a ton of parallax into the scope. Dial the power back to 10 and see if you still get group movement.

    Parallax is a problem of not only the sope but your eye placement, too. From what you said I think you understand this, but maybe you don’t appreciate what that high power is doing to you.

    Your first post described a 10-meter rifle target. Is that what you are shooting at? What distance are you shooting? At 50 X it should be 40 yards or greater.

    Finally, and I think this may be a majoir part of your problem, you mentioned moveing the rifle for each bull. After doing that can you close your eyes, relax all muscles and then open the eyes and see the crosshairs centered on the bull? If not, you will be off-target in the direction your crosshairs have moved when you relaxed. This is fundamental to the artillery hold, but it has to be done with PCPs, too.

    Get yourself in position so the rifle does not move when you relax. Then you are ready to shoot. Do that for each shot and see what happens.

    B.B.



  17. b.b.,
    Would 11mm scope rings/mounts work properly on a 13mm scope rail? I know some of them are reversible and will “fit”, but that slightly offsets the center of the scope in relation to the center of the bore. Would that cause inaccuracy at certain ranges?

    Thanks
    Chris


  18. Chris,

    You really should use the right rings. B-Square makes speciality rings for largee dovetails like BSA.

    That said, most rings are made to fit 9.5-13 mm dovetails. They are only called 11mm out of convention.

    B.B.


  19. This is for Paul with the sighting problem.

    I ran into a similer problem as his. I can start shooting and at 20-30 yards start dropping pellets right in a nice group. But then after a couple of hours of shooting all of a sudden I can be off by an inch to one side or the other and an inch low. When this first started I would readjust the scope and be right on again.

    But the next day when I started shooting again I found I was off again. I would have to readjust the scope back to where it was at the start of the prevous day.

    I knew the parallax was OK, I had attached a piece of tape to the scope and adjusted out the parallax in 5 yard increments from 5-40 yards.

    What I found was that after 2-3 hours of shooting past, I was getting tired. And even though I thought I was holding correctly, I wasn’t.

    I would suggest that when your group moves all of a sudden you either take a break or quite for the day.


  20. BB and others

    Thanks for the great imput on my issue. To answer your question BB i am using a target card of 7X7 inches, and this contains the 5 circles that are just about the same size as a 10M target. Im shooting from 25M, fully bench rested, and using a very accurate rifle (airwolf). Its definately my problem and not the gun, as i always group, but not always where i want to group lol.
    In answer to your other question, if i close and reopen my eyes, i am not on the bull. I rest on a cushion, and use a little muscle energy to hold the rifle in place on the target. Is this my error?

    Paul


  21. Paul,

    I believe so. You do well on the center bull because you concentrate of bedding the rifle for that one. But the four outer bulls are different. If you are like me, you try to “cheat” the rifle over to each outer bull, which puts tension on the rifle. When you fire, whatever slight movement your rifle has will be counter to the direction of this tension. It’s the direction the crosshairs move when you relax.

    The solution is a zen sort of thing. Get on each new target, then relax and do the eye thing the way I explained it. When you can relax and find the crosshairs still on target when you open your eyes, you are ready to take a shot.

    A solution to this is to use a two-bag rest. Rest the forearm on one bag and the butt on the other. Change elevation by sliding the butt bag forward and backward. Once on target this way ALL your groups will be in the same place.

    Now – tell me how some guys do the same thing from the seated position in field target! That’s what makes champions, I guess.

    B.B.


  22. Want to here a story about am air leak? So over the summer, i made my way to Bowling green KY for the JO’s 3-p. I filled my anschutz 2002 ca a few days before but on the practice relay, the gun was totally empty. OK, We’ll just fill it up, but the team didn’t pack the filling adapter. That was great. We borrowed one and filled it with a hand pump after I took about 10 shots with another guy’s tank. The relay was over and we still had a leaking cylinder. The next morning the gun was down to about 550psi so we ended up buying a new cylinder from pilkguns. Long story short, bring an adapter and a spare cylinder. I ended up shooting a 558 (bad) and a 572 (awesome for me).
    hb


  23. Hey bb,

    I have the airwolf working well so today i got a rapid mk2. Its so cool! It is set up to almost 40 foot pounds, with a heavy pellet and thats about 34 with jsbs. It dot to my house at 5 and i shot for an hour and then the weather got iffy. It came with 1 inch rings and the scope i got for it is 30mm. So i used a 3-9 to get started. The theobens can only use theoben rings. It gave me much less fus than the airwolf. It took like a half hour and it was shooting 1/2 inch groups at 40-50 yards. I did not measure. Much better than the 1.5 inch groups that i got with the airwolf on the first day. I was resting on a pillow so those groups are not any demonstration of what this gun can do.

    I like the fact that its not electric BUT i also like the fact that the airwolf is. The 12 shot mags are nice and it tells you what shot you are on (for the theoben). I dont use the electric features on the airwolf (for anything but what it neads to do to move the pellet out the barrel). The airwolf has a built in pressure gauge and fast fill foster thingy. They are nice but i dont use them much. I shoot 3 mags and refill. If im plinking i shoot up to like 15 mags. Lots of reloading! I have three bottles for the theoben. I like having the bottle off the gun to fill it. So all i can mess up is the 100$ tank. The new mk2 blows my old theoben away! In power and with the trigger. I guess i like the new theoben and the semi-new daystate the same. But its only been a 1/2 a day. I do like the fact that it only took 1/2 hour to get the theoben working well. The electronics provide about the same shot to shot consistancy. 10 fps per both guns. Thats not an exact number. I like the wood, feel, trigger, and specs the same for sure. A mathmatical tie. One feature cancels out the other.

    My family and friends are not interested in airguns so i thought i would bring it on hear lol.

    -sumo


  24. sumo,

    I’m learning a lot from you, including stuff I always wondered about. Like is the electric Daystate that much better than a well-made mechanical gun? According to you – not necessarily.

    Daystate will counter that the elctric mechanism conserves air and also has a lower muzzle report, so how about your thoughts on those two points?

    B.B.


  25. B.B.,

    I looking at the webley tomahawk and the longbow, which one would you recommend based on accuracy, hold sensitivity and general feel. Does the tomahawk have the lothar walther barrel like the longbow?


  26. Webley doesn’t say anything about their Tomahawk on their website. We don’t seem to have that info on the Pyramyd website, so I would have to guess no.

    As for the other questions, the only rifle I’ve tested is the Tomahawk. It is extremely sensitive to hold, like most breakbarrels.

    B.B.


  27. BB,

    If i compare the airwolf, MK2 that i got yesterday, and the old mark1. The mark 1 is loudest! And least powerful! This is because it has the shortest barrel and the worst of all three moderators. the MK2 has the longest barrel. In the rest of the comparison the mark1 is out… In order to shoot a 21g pellet 1000fps(just for example) with a 16 inch barrel (daystate) it takes more air than a 28 inch barrel (not exact but thats what the barrel mk2 looks to be). meaning the exceleration is greater in the gun with the shorter barrel is much faster. So the gun is louder? They seem to be the same but they have diff moderators. Its like a car, 0 to 1000 in what time and distance. I think the electronics make the gun quiter but not between these guns because of the longer barrel on the mk2. THIS is a good example because the guns have the same relative power. Meaning it conserves air over a mechanical gun WITH THE SAME BARREL LENGTH. The two guns get the same relative number of shots too. Even whan the daystate has a 400cc bottle and the mk2 has the 400cc. the mk2 is a bit long because of this.

    Define “well made” …Electric guns are no better than a VERY WELL MADE mechanical gun unless you like the diff modes of shooting. I dont think an air arms s410 or sn HW100 comes close to the electronics in the daystate. Only a theoben. The guns are not a tie in all regards but one feature cancels out another. For example… The daystate mag is much easier to load but the mk2s holds 2 more shots than the 10 shot daystate mag.

    I am picky about my triggers and i think the theoben is as good as the daystates or in other words… I think the daystates trigger is as good as the theobens.

    I could not choose between the two, once again, a tie. Thats why both companys are in business. it was nice that the theoben was $300 cheaper but in the price tags of these guns thats not much.

    I got some 30mm theoben rings and im going to mount a nice khales scope on the theoben.

    Is that the answer to your question?

    -sumo



  28. BB,

    i forgot to say a few things.

    The bolt on the airwolf is better. Meaning you are cycling the mag as apposed to cocking a spring but Firing behaviors are =. If you need a guage on the gun its there. The foster fill is in the way if you move your hand around but not when your shooting. I have said some of this before but i like to change out bottles and fill them more than the foster thing.

    I like the theoben rings. They are rock solid for a pcp. There are no inlets on the sides of the rail. Its just a 13mm (not exact) wide block with 90 angles. So the mounts go on top of that. So the rings are straight and lined up 100%! There are two holes on top of the rail that you line up with the mounts. Then put the bolts in.

    They have copied each other a bit in a few ways with the way the fore grip of the stocks work.

    1. they both have the wood come over the bottle in the same way.
    2. it slopes into the trigger in the same way but the daystate also has a metal guard.

    i guess they both figured ou thats the best way of doing a fore grip.

    i was thinkin about a usft a while ago and did not buy one because they take to long to come. i also dont shoot feild target so that made me notice that i had no use fo it. Believe it or not, i do have a use for the mk2 and thats hunting and plinking (.3 inch groups at 50 yards and shooting up stuff). I think they relative accuracy is the same and 40fp is more destructive (i am an american).

    more to come!

    -sumo


  29. sumo,

    You told me a lot. Like the fact that your Airwolf has a moderator. Daystate claimed none of their Mark II actions needed moderators because they had the air “tuned” so well by the electronics. I guess that isn’t the case.

    Also the Daystate has a larger reservoir, yet both guns get the same number of shots. That’s the Theoben’s longer barrel kicking in – not the electronics that Daystate claims. It is impressive that they get the power they do from such a short barrel, but it makes it impossible to compare the two rifles. 12 inches of barrel is too much of a handicap for technology to overcome in a PCP. It seems odd they would make such a fine PCP, and then hamstring it with a short barrel like that.

    B.B.


  30. bb,

    sorry, i was trying to say shroud. What they said is impossible. It need a lot of pressure behind the pellet the whole time. Including that last mm of barrel. I could make a gun wath a 5 inch barrel that shoots a 21g kodiak but it would be loud. When the hammer hits the valve it lets out air. But how much air and in how much time. Sure the valve is better in the airwold but me, the chrony, and the squerrels cant tell.

    What daystate is saying is that the air stops oncce the pellet exits the barrel. Thats not the case. Not with the 40 fp mode.

    You have a a talon ss and it has a 12 inch barrel doesent it? That does not make it a bad gun. I think i got it wrong about the airwolfs barrel. Its 17 inches. Thats a normal length.

    -sumo


  31. sumo,

    Since I don’t have access to these guns, I rely on what you say about them to understand how well they work. Your comment about the Talon SS is correct, except they don’t try to pass 25 foot-pounds with it. For 31 foot-pounds, you have to buy the Talon with its 18-inch barrel.

    Glad to hear the Airwolf has a 17-inch barrel. That makes more sense. As for the air stopping when the pellet leaves the muzzle, I knew it couldn’t do that. There is no way the air in the barrel isn’t going to exit the bore. But what they really mean is they don’t waste air beyond what it takes to get their energy, and that’s good.

    Do you happen to know whether the electronic solenoid in the Airwolf is desmodromic? In other words, it knocks the valve open, but does it also close it positively, or do they rely on a return spring and reservoir air pressure to close the valve?

    B.B.


  32. bb,

    yea, if the air did fully decompress the pellet would fall out the barrel.

    I dont know about the solenold being desmodromic. The tank is not removable so im guessing it is.

    I just got out of the shower… I took the two guns in there and shot them both into phone books. Using kodiaks in both guns. They make different sounds but i cant see (hear) one to be louder than the other.

    I went outside with the airwolf and took a jsb and put fp10 all over it and then fired it with the sun behind the pellet. you could see the pellet and all the fp10 cyclone behind it. Try it!

    Yesterday i ordered a .22 trap from pyramyd and 9 tins of kodiaks. To bring the order up the free shiping (150). I also got a new mag for the 707. I think i will set up a range in my basement. I think i can shoot the guns near full power (1060 with jsb 16g) because they will be 700 when they hit. I have 35 yards! so it would be crazy not to.

    The GOOD thing about these guns is that you wouldent need to pull the pellet out if you shot someone. Thats a joke!

    -sumo



  33. Nate,

    yep, 35 yards! I measured it wath a big tape measure thing. Just over 35 withot being back against the wall. I have much more than that on the ground level but i dont want to kill anyone or shoot up the kitchen!

    I will be lucky when it rains!

    Its only half under ground so i can open the door and shoot outside and take out some of the wind factor.

    -sumo


  34. sumo,
    thats really cool. i dont know how its set up but it sounds like you could open the door and shoot further if it was raining or snowy or cold. you could make a little targret stand with a cover to keep the targets out the elements if you shot in such a way. im sure those pcps can get awfully loud inside though

    Nate in Mass


  35. Nate,

    yea its a good plan!

    Not loud at all!…
    if you read my comments above you will see that i shot my airwolf and mk2 in the shower with pellets in them. In that i noticed how quit they really are. If i open the bolt on the wolf and fire it my ears ring. This it becauce it goes from 3200psi to o in no time and with no shroud. The mk2 needs to have the bolt closed, yea LOW TECH lol.

    -sumo


  36. sumo,
    it should be quiter with a pellet in the barrel because it restricts the air expansion. are you saying you fired it with the breech open?
    is that possible? 3200psi to 15psi is a big change

    Nate in Mass


  37. Nate,

    “t should be quiter with a pellet in the barrel because it restricts the air expansion”….. Thats why i put a pellet in!

    With the airwolf…
    The bolt only cycles the mag. The gun has no hammer or spring. Its electric. I cant fire pellets with the breech open if thats what you mean.

    -sumo


  38. sumo,
    i see what your saying. it must run on battery right? do you have to recharge it or is it like a standard size? and isnt it a little inconvient to have to charge your rifle? although it must be nice to have no hammer movement.

    Nate in Mass


  39. Nate,

    yes, it runs on a battery. It only has to be recharged every FIVE THOUSAND shots! Not so inconvient now is it lol?

    -sumo


  40. Your comment to use Pellgunoil is discussed on the Yellow Forum – mostly as being dangerous!?
    The post may still be up but your article is listed and Pyramydair also…
    Just a heads up.



  41. Hi BB!

    About the pell gun oil, you are still recomending a drop of oil at the top of 12g CO2 cartridges (like this one on the Gamo V3), right? But petroleum-based oils will damage seals and O-rings, won’t it?

    BTW, do you recomend any particular brand of diver’s silicone to PCP guns?

    Thanks!


  42. Rafael,

    Yes to Pellgunoil – always for CO2.

    Maybe it is petroleum-based, but it works.

    Don’t question it. Just use it.

    There are many “brands” and no real brands of Diver’s silicone grease. They are all packaged by small retailers under their own lables. They are all food-grade silicone grease – the stuff used in food preparation machinery.

    B.B.


  43. Hey there B.B.

    I’m sorry that you had all those problems with the B51. I just a chance to review a B50 and my findings were the opposite. If you or your readers would like, you can read them here: http://www.airgunweb.com

    Because the rifle does not have a built in gauge, you really need to make sure that you have an accurate fill gauge. The one I used was a bit overkill, but it was extremely accurate. After reading your review, I’m glad I had it.

    Hope to hear from you soon.

    AirHead in SC.


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