by B.B. Pelletier
I had every intention of finishing the CP99 Limited Edition today, but something happened in testing that has never happened before. I want to report it completely today, so there’s going to be a part three for this gun!
First pellet
Everything went according to plan when the first CO2 cartridge was installed (with a drop of Crosman Pellgunoil on the tip – as always). The first pellet tested was the Crosman Competition Wadcutter. I shot the pistol in both double-action and single-action, which I will show you how to do. Had this gun been an Umarex of five years ago, it would have been noticeably faster in single-action than in double-action, but that wasn’t the case with the CP99. In double-action, it averaged 355 f.p.s., and in single-action it averaged 332 f.p.s. Clearly faster in double-action!
For all shooting, I paused a minimum of 15 seconds between shots. There’s no sense shooting any faster than that, because CO2 will always cool down a gun and lower the velocity. You have to allow time for the gun to return to normal after every shot. The temperature when I shot (indoors) was 71 degrees F.
Shooting single-action
Just because there’s no hammer visible doesn’t mean you can’t cock it. Pull on the back half of the top slide; and when the silver metal underneath is completely exposed, the hammer will cock. You will see the trigger move as this is done.
Just pull back the slide to cock the gun.
Surprise!
Then I attached the compensator, because several people wanted to know how it affects accuracy and velocity. As I was getting ready to shoot, I was already drafting in my head how to explain why a fake compensator cannot possibly add anything to the velocity of a pistol like this, and then I took the first shot – 365 f.p.s.! Okay, I thought, that must have been an anomaly. Shot two – 365! Shot three – 364. And so on. With the comp, it didn’t see to make a difference whether I shot single- or double-action. So the CP99 shoots Crosman wadcutters faster with a compensator installed than without it. Very interesting!
Next pellet – not the same!
RWS Hobby pellets were next. Without the compensator, they averaged 353 f.p.s. in single -action and 367 in double-action. With this pellet, the gun shoots faster double-action than single. Once again, the reverse of what was expected. With the compensator installed, single-action averaged 354 and double averaged 368. Very little difference with or without the compensator.
Last pellet
Beeman Lasers were the final pellets I tested. Without the compensator, they averaged 378 f.p.s. in double-action and 380 in single. That’s too close to say there’s a difference. When the compensator was installed, the velocity jumped to 385 single-action and 389 double. Only a small increase with this pellet.
Number of shots per CO2 cartridge
Everybody wants to know this! On the first cartridge, there were 42 good shots in a tight spread. Then velocity started tapering off. By shot 55, it had dropped to 289 f.p.s. with a Beeman Laser, which you would probably notice. It really depends how far you are shooting when you notice the power dropoff. Shots at 25 feet might not move too much as the velocity declines, but at 25 yards they certainly would. Figure 50 good shots per cartridge. The second cartridge performed exactly the same as the first.
The fastest recorded shot was a Laser in double-action with the compensator installed. It measured 397 f.p.s. The fastest without the comp was also a Laser shot in single-action. It measured 385 f.p.s.
So it seems there is something to this compensator, after all. I note that it improved the performance of Crosmans more than the other two, so there must be something like the weight of the pellet to consider, as well.
I had planned to look at the laser and do accuracy testing today, but the time spent chronographing the gun proved to be excessive. Also, there was a lot to explain. We’ll do the laser and accuracy next, plus one reader wants me to tape up the compensator holes to see if there’s a noise difference.
make sure you tape over every hole except the muzzle
Hi B.B.,
Is the compensator essentially a barrel extension, or is it hollow inside? I’ve never handled any Umarex “compensators” before.
Ben
B.B.
I noticed that PyramydAir is bringing in Gamo Big Cat 1200. I recently picked up this gun some place else. Do you know what is the difference between the Big Cat and Shadow Sport?
Thanks
CP
Comp,
Will do.
B.B.
Ben,
The compensator isn’t just a tube that extends the barrel. It really does have some interesting shapes inside. The actual amount of extension is one inch or less.
B.B.
CP,
The Big Cat certainly looks like it is based on the Shadow to me. And that statement about “match accuracy with PBA ammo” has got to be incorrect. You won’t get match accuracy with ANY pellet from this rifle, let alone a PBA that’s already inaccurate.
B.B.
CPO,
I already answered this the other place you asked. Please ask just one time.
B.B.
B.B.
Thanks for quick reply. Big Cat I got came with 3-9×42 unmounted scope. I’m a noob, but I think this gun shoots great and is definately a great buy.
CP
CP,
Well, that’s good to hear.
Gamo makes a nice spring rifle.
B.B.
hello bb what makes a spring piston airguns velocity so inconsistent compared to a multi pump pneumatic air gun
thank you
Spring piston,
Good question. Actually, there are spring piston airguns that are very consistent (under 10 f.p.s. variation) but when they are burning fuel, they do vary by more.
Read this 3-part blog to understand what fuel-burning means:
/blog/2007/5/what-does-dieseling-mean-part-3/
B.B.
Hello B.B.,
Just an off topic observation that was a learning experience for me, that others are probably fully aware of in regards to accuracy. This is in respect to springers, which are a new experience to me. Pnematics/PCP’s (which are what I mainly shot before) are not as sensitive.
You have seen me mention that I am deadly accurate with my CFX, and have great success with the 16.1gr Eun Jins.
Well, I bought two different models of Diana RWS springers (beautiful guns by the way) and started to break them in, and learn their shoot an hold characteristics, and became proficient very fast. I continued to play with my new toys for about a week and a half.
I went back to shooting my CFX, and my groups were not as tight as before with the first few pellets I shot, and even my prized Eun Jins were pulling to the right, and unpredictable. I was just about to remove the adjustment caps to my scope when,…then it dawned on me,…I had forgotten how to shoot my CFX, and was expecting its shooting characteristics to be like the Dianas. Once I had this minor epiphany, after about 5 additional rounds the groups tightened, I was dropping all of my trusted pellets through the same holes again, and all was well.
I guess what I learned was, once a gun is sighted in properly and you have a benchmark for its capabilities, you have found ammo you trust, and all other things remain equal, chances are if it appears to become inaccurate “its probably me the shooter”.
Now, whenever I break in a new gun or re-acquaint myself with an old one, once I bring my groups in tight, then I revisit pellets that maybe previously exhibited wider groups and find “their true value” in concert with “my higher proficiency” with the gun.
This is just an observation. I would have hated to have taken a shot on a squirrel with my CFX, immediately after breaking in my Dianas, for I surely would have wounded it, and not humanely dispatched it.
Squirrel,
Wow! That was an epiphany!
It was so good a blog should to be written about it – except by you.
I suppose I have experienced the same thing, but I’ve never had the revelation you just had. I think when I describe it I say it’s “being in the groove.” I know when I go out to range-test a certain gun that my groups will get better the more groups I shoot. I’m sure that’s the same thing you describe.
Most interesting.
Thanks,
B.B.
Yeah B.B.,
Its almost like you have to get “in the groove” with the gun, before you can then determine which pellets work best.
When the barrels of my pneumatics/PCPs have become leaded enough to affect accuracy, I have cleaned them. I have found that I need to run at least 50 rounds (depending on the gun) through the newly cleaned barrels before they return to their original accuracy. I don’t know if these rounds clean out any oil, patch lint, etc. that I may have missed or can’t remove.
These are just little tidbits I’m picking up along the way. I’m learning more about springers as I go along now.
Squirrel, That is why I now always go to my 0.22 TX200 when taking out my problem causing chippers on my retaining walls. It doesn’t care how I hold it. This year I am 9 for 9 on the little diggers. I have left the squirrls alone as I don’t have feeders or any real issues with them. KTK
Hello KTK,
Thats the way my .22 RWS46 is. Its my go to gun now. Its not hold sensitive at all.
My CFX used to be my go to gun, and I still love her because of the price I paid for the power and accuracy (its a steal). I haven’t given up on her, or any of the other guns, it just now that I’m shooting more springers, I have to remember “not every gun is the same” and “get in the right mindset before you pick it up”.
I found, with the pnuematics/PCPs I own, that a tight hold works on all of them. I can pick them up where I left off.
One other thing I’m noticing with springers, which I never had to pay attention to with pnuematics/PCPs is butt-pad size. Most manufacturers know if their guns kick/recoil hard. My Gamo CFX and RWS300R have thick butt-pads, which can mean hard recoil, which “can” mean hold sensitivity. My RWS46 has a normal sized butt-pad, and coincidentally has a gentler shooting characteristic. I would assume the RWS48/52/54 would probably hold the same as the RWS46 (realizing the 54 has that anti-recoil thing going for it). I would assume the RWS350/460 magnums are hold sensitive by their butt-pad size.
Just further observation. Like I said, this whole springer world is new to me.
B.B.
my friend just purchased a CO2 pellet pistol, co2 powered guns are a completely new field to me and i was wondering if you could help us out with the do’s and don’ts of general co2 mainenance. my big question is weither it is safe or not to leave a powerlet in a pistol for an extended period of time?
thanks as always,
scopestop
I think the but pad is for comfort and control as much as recoil. On The Diana 34 there is no recoil pad and on my Diana 36 and HW50S the pad is solid rubber that provide no noticible padding of the recoil but stick to your sholder more. Rocoil other than effects of hold sensitivity doesn’t bother me though. I like to shoot my Rem 1100 12ga. Skeet and Trap with the stock ot of the box plastic hard but plate as it sholders faster. KTK
scopestop,
The owner’s manuals say no; I say yes. I have guns that have had powerlets in them for many years. I have a bulk-fill target pistol that’s been charged for 9 years. I have refilled it many times, but it has never been without gas.
The owner’s manuals are concerned with liability. If someone drops something gown the bore and squeezes off a shot, an “accident” can happen.
The CO2 gas does no more harm to the gun that air hurts a PCP, and we leave them charged at all times – for the same reasons.
B.B.
bb,
why do spring guns require different holds? arent they all made the same way, for the most part?
Dave
Squirrel,
My last comment but my personal feeling and non expert opinion on shooting springers that it is not rearward recoil that contributes to the most to hold sensitivity(HS) but the forward from the pistons energy being stopped on the compression of air prior to the pellet beginning its trip down the barrel.
I believe there is a ton of things that contribute to the HS of the springer, weight distribution thought the gun for instance. Changing the stock can makes a big difference. Its baffling that 2 guns of the same fpe can be so different in HS.
But in keeping in line with your observation the more fpe springers tend to be more HS as a basic rule probably due to increasing energy = magnification of any intrinsic HS in a typical spring powered air gun. The beauty is to find a gun that is non HS and high fpe – two normally contradicting forces in the springer world.
KTK
Dave,
Why does a Maseratti handle differently than a Scion?
And are you really asking why does a spring gun require a different hold than a PCP, or are you asking why differrent spring guns handle differently?
B.B.
Squirrelkiller
What size groups are you shooting with your Eun Jins. If you have a chrono, what velocities are the Eun Jins producing. I have a cfx also and am looking for some good pellet choices. I’m thinking CPL’s and JSB exacts but based on what you say I’d like to try some Eun Jins.
Thanks a lot, Kyle.
bb,
sorry, i wasnt specific enough. i was wondering why different spring guns need different holds…is there really that much of a difference in how they are manufactured?
Dave
bb,
just a little addition from my last ? to be sure you understand it…example:will all gamo’s that use the shadow 1000 powerplant need the same hold? could you explain what KTK said about spring guns that have the same fpe, but need a different hold. thanks
Dave
dave
all spring guns are unique to themselves. they have more powerfull powerplants, different piston strokes, wieght ect. in a single line of gun the hold could differ also. one might have a more dence stock, different barell haomonics ect. theres really endless posibilities. mabey bb would concider a blog
Nate in Mass
nate in mass,
i think a blog would be a good idea…bb, what do you think?
Dave
b.b. i read your stuff on bigbore air guns and if you go to americanairgunhunter.com the jim chapman guy uses big bores all the time just thought id let you know
cody
I understand this will be a controversial comment, but would not the BATF consider placing tape over the UMAREX compensator openings with the intent of quieting the report as the act of “making” a silencer.
I know the technique is effective, I’m just questioning the wisdom of performing such a test and then blogging about it.
I’m glad your RWS 46 is not hold sensitive, Squirrelkiller. Wish I could say the same about mine in .177. Mine insists on a firmer hold towards the grip and rear of the stock, a loose hold with the left hand, and it will absolutely not tolerate being rested on a sandbag, even with my hand in between. Took quite a while for me to eliminate all the variables and figure that one out, but it’s very satisfying when it finally all comes together. A really beautiful gun, by the way.
Dave,
There is apparently something about the harmonics of a breakbarrel gun that makes it far more sensitive to hold. I can understand why an underlever is different – the underlever attenuates the vibrations of the shot. But why is a sidelever also less hold sensitive?
Diana puts a barrel jacket on their sidelevers. Maybe that also attenuates vibrations. I don’t know, but the fact is, breakbarrels are the most sensitive of all.
As to similar guns having similar holds, I believe that it true, so when I test a gun, I look at how similar it is to something I already know how to shoot. It saves me a lot of fiddle time. Sometimes, though, guns like the AR1000 come along and are brand new, so I have to start at square one.
My basic rule of thumb is that most breakbarrels like to be balanced just forward of the triggerguard. Three weeks ago I would have added “on the flat of the open palm,” but now I think the gel pad Pyranyd sells might be the better medium.
B.B.
Dave,
My answer was almost a blog. Yes, I will blog this on Tuesday.
B.B.
KTK,
Excellent point about the recoil being forward instead of rearward. Now butt pad size means nothing again, which is one less variable to pay attention to. Like you mentioned its more for comfort I guess.
Silencer guy,
I thought about that, and do not think what I did violates any laws. It’s important to note that this is an airgun, not a firearm.
The compensator on the CP99 Limited Edition is so specific (thread pattern) than I doubt it could be attached to a firearm without major rework.
It would be easier to just duct tape a 2-liter pop bottle to the muzzle of a .22 rimfire and shoot that – which does work, by the way.
B.B.
Kyle,
My shooting range limitation is at max 25 yards. I have my guns sighted in a little low from center at about 20 yards.
I can keep a group in the center of a dime, with a flyer every once in a while which could be due to pellet irregularity, or as mentioned before due to improper hold between shots (“me”), or the fact that we don’t live in a perfect world.
I don’t have a chrony, but I own and have shot an array CO2/pneumatic/PCP airguns. I am definitely no expert (repeat “no expert”), but I think over time (just like individuals can troubleshoot/diagnose car problems by sound) I think you can have an ear and sight for speed ranges to a point. I’m talking trigger pull to impact sight and sound. You learn to be able to tell whether your CO2/PCP needs to be charged by the preceeding shot.
I can tell/feel my power/speed ranges shooting the Eun Jins with my CFX is somewhere between my Crosman 1007 (rated at 625fps) and my RWS850 magnum (rated at 760fps).
There are three pellets I get consistent results from every time. Beemen Field Target Specials 8.8gr, JSB Exact Diabolo 10.2gr, and the Eun Jin 16.1gr.
Hope this helps
Anonymous,
Maybe its perpective for me.
My CFX in .177 was my first springer, and it surpised me the first time I shot it how it jolted, until it became second nature.
My 300R in .177 kicks harder than the CFX, but the weight and stock composition aid in being less sensitive for shot placement than the CFX. I noticed yesterday it kicks hard enough to loosen screws on my scope mount, which will cause me to pose a question to B.B. after this comment.
When I get around to my 46 (just love the top loading port by the way) in .22, it feels like a normal (not tight) hold does the trick. So it doesn’t feel as sensitive, but certainly more sensitive than a CO2/pneumatic/PCP.
Hello B.B.,
As mentioned in the previous post, the windage screws to my scope mount are being loosened the hard recoil of one of my springers.
Which product would you recommend (loctite?) to remedy this?
Does it set up (dry) immediately, or does a person have time to work with it?
Does it require any type of special process (heating?) to unscrew fittings in the future once its used, or will using regular allen wrenches and more strength just do the trick?
Are there any tips/tricks/”does-and-don’ts” you would recommend?
As always,
Thanks
Squirrel,
I use rubbing alcohol to remove oil dry withcompressed air or dustoff then use loctite blue it does NOT dry fast. Leave it 24-36 hrs to cure. IF you do not degrease and dry first it can and will fail. Done that.
KTK
Squirrel,
Yes, blue Locktite number 242 is what to use. Thoroughly clean the threads of each screw before applyomng. Just a drop does the job, and you do have time to work. The screw will continue to be tight even after removal and installation several times.
B.B.
B.B. and KTK,
Thanks for the info,…and special thanks on the heads-up on cleaning the threads prior to use.
Squirrelkiller
I really appreciate your help. The next time I order from pyramydair I’ll pick up some of your pellet choices. Nice groups by the way. And your shooting range is similar to mine (my trap is @ 23 yards). Oh and my velocity question really should have been an energy question because I have some birdfeeder raiding problems from the squirrels, but according to your blogger name I think these pellets can do the job as pest eliminators.
Thanks a lot, Kyle.
Hello again Kyle,
A blogger named PestBgone shot Eun Jins through his Gamo Shadow recently and quoted velocities of 585fps and energy calculation of 12ft lbs. I believe my velocity is greater than 585fps (by feeling; I think its closer to my RWS850 magnum), and the Gamo CFX and Shadow are two completely different guns with different powerplants, even though they both are rated at 1000fps, or maybe I just lucked into a great CFX.
What I have learned from B.B. and other bloggers here is don’t get too caught up in acheiving the highest speed or energy level all the time. Accuracy and knowing your prey’s kill zone, and energy absorbtion are the top points. I believe I read somewhere it only takes 6ft lbs of energy to dispatch a squirrel, anything more than that is a waste and may/will cause over-penetration. If I could find and “accurately shoot” a heavier pellet than the Eun Jins I would, because I know I would improve the likelihood of full energy absorbtion in my prey.
Don’t discount the Crosman pellets. I personally just stray away from them because of what B.B. mentioned concerning “leading”. I may not be reaching velocities where excessive “leading” is ever going to be an issue for me with the Crosmans, but I am a creature of habit, I live by rules (so I have one less thing to worry/think about or remember), and I try to eliminate “potential” negative variables whereever I can.
Beeman Kodiaks are known to be accurate in the CFX also, and I have experienced success with them, but at my range, I don’t need anything with a pointed or semi-pointed dome, because of over-penetration.
I use the Beeman Field Target Specials mainly for scope sighting and plinking, they are just too light (for me) for taking squirrels. I sight for accuracy with the JSB exacts and Eun Jins, but I mainly use these for squirrel taking. I have taken squirrels effectively with Beeman CrowMagnums and JSB Predators (hollow points) in shorter ranges, but I get more “flyers” with these at 20+ yards.
My next Pyramid order, I plan to order some RWS Supermags 9.3gr to give them a try. I like the potential weight, and the fact that its a heavy “wadcutter” which may solve some of my over-penetration issues.
I have tried to evolve from accurately “shooting at” the squirrels to “accurately and effectively” taking them with one shot, and I hope you do the same. Quick and effective elimination is the key.
Head/Brain-pan shots are the best if possible, but don’t just shoot him in the face. Strive for chest height and up. Abdominal shots and below, may kill, but more times than not, he will scamper away and live or experience a long drawn out death. Angled shots, like from the left rear side of the body toward the right front side (shoudler), or any combination of this is great, because of the trauma you inflict as the pellet traverses across the body and likely remains inside. Likewise, if he has his back to you on all fours, penetrating the rear of his body moving toward his head is very effective (squirrel tissue is soft, and you would be surprised that the pellet probably ends up in his neck with the CFX, or similar powered airgun at 20 yards).
I don’t mean to carry on like this is “big game” hunting here over long distances, but it doesn’t mean its any less enjoyable to shoot a small round at small prey and be effective at it. Over the last 2 years I’ve taken 70+. They were so numerous you would see packs of 8+ moving through the trees, chewing on outdoor furniture, getting into feeders, birds nests, etc. I could easily take 2/3 a day, and once took 3 in less than an hour. Now I rarely see 1 a week as they are scouting new territory, and welcome blue jays, cardinals, robins, large woodpeckers have returned.
One last point, you WILL get over-penetration with the JSB and Eun Jins, so be careful of what is behind the squirrel, for it can/will be your unintended victim (neighbors window, etc.).
Sorry,…didn’t mean to write a book,…but its Saturday and I’m killing time…
squirrelkiller,
actually, mr. beeman says it only takes 3-4 foot lbs. 6 he rates for crows(with a good shot obviously), and as little as 8 for something jackrabbit sized. bb, do you aggree with this?
Dave
Dave,
Back when Airgun Illustrated magazine was being published, they had a section about urban hunting. Two guys in California were killing pigeons at ranges up to 56 yards with guns that started out at 8 foot-pounds. That would be a yes.
B.B.
Squirrelkiller.
I can’t thank you enough for the info you’ve given me. I’ll try to reply to some of what you said.
-As for leading with Crosman Pellets, I beileve it happens because recently I have been shooting Crosmans and I noticed my groups opening up, so I pushed a brush through the barrel followed by some patches. I noticed my groups on average tightened with a de-leaded barrel, so I do believe leading happens with crosmans.
-I agree with you about not using pointed pellets for over penetration. I use wadcutters because I believe they will do the most damage to tissue because of their flat shape. I think at longer range a pointed pellet can be justified because of the subsequent velocity drop that will occur. I believe a pointed/domed pellet retains its energy and therefore penetration which is obviously needed to hunt(but at limited/controlled amounts).
-I also totally agree with quick elimination and always try to do so. I once hit a squirrel and watched it run off injured. I later followed a blood trail in the snow and found a still living squirrel (probably 10 minutes later) I had to put a mercy shot in it and I felt really terrible about it. So for quick elimination I am totally in agreement and practice.
-I didn’t know about shooting at an angle or from the back of the squirrel as an effective method for taking a squirrel. Your theory about the large area of tissue trauma from the side or back does make sense so I now know im not limited to a side-of-head shot. I bet a back of head shot would be effective also do to brain and spinal chord damage involved but that is a tight shot to make.
-As to comment on necessary dispatch energy I believe in the lower than expected energy numbers. I once killed a pigeon with a crosman 1010 pistol with a bb. I was actually trying to scare it off the birdfeeder to let the other song birds back to eat. I actually hit the pigeon and killed it instantly. I was probably about 20 feet away. I was very surprised because I doughted that this gun could break the skin let alone kill anything!
Thanks again squirrelkiller for the new knowledge learned and your time in writing me.
Happy memorial day all.
Kyle.
Kyle,
Glad I could help, but I can’t accept all the thanks. Most of what I spouted was a regurgitation of what I have learned from B.B.’s expertise and other knowledgeable bloggers here, mixed with my growing experience. Hell, I’m just now discovering the need for a product like Loctite #242, now that I’m buying/shooting more springers, and wished I would have used it on my CO2/pneumatics/PCP mounts (I hate re-sighting).
If you ever need to know about something do a search on B.B.’s previous blogs. Reading and learning from his blogs and others kept me busy way before I posted my first question a couple of months ago. I’ve even bought “The Airgun from Trigger to Target” book.
Its funny how and individual can become addicted to airguns, and the surrounding knowledge, and how we realize in starting out we are really not too savy.
If you would have asked me 2 years ago, if I ever would pay $200+ in the future for a “pellet gun”, I would have laughed and said “you are crazy”. Now I respect and understand these are “air rifles” and should be respected like firearms. I am now $3500+ in (which is a meager investment compared to other airgun enthusiasts and collectors).
2years ago, I never knew what a laser-bore-sighter was, or the intricacies of an adjustable scope mount. Now I have a store of pellet tins, extra scopes, scope mounts (reg, adjustable, riser, 11mm-to-weaver), extra mags, maintenance and cleaning supplies, an various other sudries sitting around just in case. If these were firearm supplies one of my neighbors would probably put me on a terrorist watch list. The Fedex guy is even noticing “another air rifle, huh?”.
I can now appreciate the $150 difference in price between a Crosman 2100 pneumatic and a Gamo CFX, and the $200 difference between a Gamo CFX and an RWS46, and why a good quality air pump with accesories for the Sumatra costs as much as a rifle.
Lastly, I frequent the blog, and am thinking about finding Field Target Clubs in my area.
Anybody know the phone number for AirGunners Anonymous?
Squirrelkiller
My situation is alot like yours. This last christmas I was wondering what I wanted and came up with a new pellet gun, (I had broken the “stock” of my cheap beeman). I went online looking for a general idea of what I wanted and it ended up that I got a CFX from my parents. At first I shot it a lot just because I was surprised to have a pellet gun that recoiled and one that looked like a real rifle. And then I found pyramydair and its blog and it has all escilated from there. I now realize how big the airgun world really is and whats out there. I have always been intersted in cars and machines in general, and I had an uncle who sold guns from his home in New Hampshire, so it was just natural to me that I get interested in airguning. I am now a daily vistor to the site and blog and am always reading articles or looking at some new gun online. I owe a big thanks to B.B. especially and all who contribute to this site and blog.
Happy Memorial Day, Kyle.
Kyle,
Thanks for that insight. I enjoy knowing who I’m writing for.
B.B.