Beeman R1 update report

by B.B. Pelletier

Before I begin, don’t forget that on April 8 at 8 p.m. Eastern I will have a special Facebook session on the Pyramyd Air page just for you. Please join me then.

And don’t forget the Arkansas airgun show is fast approaching. Friday, April 30, and Saturday, May 1, are the dates, and this website gives all the particulars. I hope to see a lot of you there.

Today is Friday, and on Fridays I like to write about things that are of special interest to me. Do you know that I’ve been writing this blog for almost five years, and in all that time I haven’t done a single report on the Beeman R1? I wrote a book about it, but I’ve never blogged it until today. I assume that veteran airgunners know the rifle well, but the newer readers may never have heard of it or given it a second thought.


The R1 book has test results from two brand-new R1s.

To clear up a rumor that people used to try to spread, the Beeman R1 did not grow out of the Weihrauch HW80. In fact, it was just the opposite. The HW80 is copied after the R1. It came to market first because the longer R1 stocks were not ready in time to build the rifles. And the nomenclature HW 0 means that the piston stroke is 80mm. The R1 was the first air rifle to be designed in part by a CAD/CAM system, and those who attend the Arkansas show next month may well have the chance to meet the engineer who designed it for Dr. Beeman–E.H. Epperson.

History
Back when the R1 first came to market, the FWB 124 was the fairest in the land. It had broken the 800 f.p.s. barrier and nothing else could hold a candle to it. Then, the R1 burst on the scene, delivering 940 f.p.s. in .177 caliber. Before a year elapsed, the Beeman company had tuned the .177 R1 past 1,000 f.p.s. and every dedicated airgunner wanted one. I know I sure did.

The trouble was that I had recently bought an expensive 124, and as a family man could not justify spending that much more money for another new air rifle. Robert Beeman taunted me with the Rekord trigger, the beautiful stock and of course the power that I thought I needed to be complete. So, I pined for an R1 that would not be mine until more than a decade passed. Wife No. 2 turned out to be much nicer than No. 1 and gave me one for Christmas in 1991.


The Rekord trigger had a lot to recommend it in the early 1980s. It still does.

My new R1 was in .177 caliber, of course, because I wanted the speed. But I quickly learned what I now tell other new airgunners–velocity without accuracy sucks, and you give up too much power by getting a powerful airgun in .177 caliber. So, I decided that I wanted a .22. Enter The Airgun Letter.

Starting in 1994, I wrote a monthly newsletter about airguns. Then, I hatched a plot that I would write about an R1 and all the various tunes one could do to it. It would provide the newsletter with many interesting articles (more than nine in the final tally). To do that I would have to get a brand-new R1 that I could break in and report on as I did. Cutting to the chase, that R1 served as the platform for many newsletter articles and was the basis for my book, which was published in 1995.

For those who have never read the book, there were actually two R1s. The first one broke a forearm stock mount that Beeman had to weld back on, and in the process they “gave” me a free moly tune, because they had to clean out the compression chamber before welding. That was great except for one thing. I was in the middle of a protracted break-in and test, which they ruined by tuning the gun. So, after some discussion, they replaced the rifle and I got to break in a second .22 caliber R1. It’s all in the book and the remarkable thing is how close the two rifles turned out after a 1,000-shot break-in.

That second rifle is the one I still have today, though I did trade it away for a period of three years. The same man got my Whiscombe rifle when we needed the money, but was glad to sell them back to me three years later because I included his (and my) favorite M1 Carbine in the deal. While he had the gun, he made a beautiful walnut stock for it, which is a bonus given the level of my woodworking skill. Although it isn’t checkered, I leave it on the rifle for the beauty.


My R1 has undergone a huge transition from new. This is how it looks today.


Isn’t that nice figure in the butt?

How does a Beeman R1 differ from other magnum air rifles?
For starters, there are no synthetics visible on this rifle. None! The piston seal is synthetic and so is the spring guide in a current R1, but the guide in my rifle is steel. The trigger uses machined parts. The major stamped part is the box that holds the trigger components.

When I picked the rifle up to examine it, I was shocked by the weight. It’s over 10 lbs. with a scope and Vortek tunable muzzlebrake. Yet it delivers only about 14.5 foot-pounds. I’ve detuned it for smoothness and because I simply do not need it to be a supermagnum air rifle anymore.


This muzzlebrake from Vortek has a moving weight that allows you to “tune” the rifle to the best vibration nodes. You can adjust the barrel vibration for every different pellet you shoot. This accessory is no longer available, though Vortek may still have a couple that were unsold.

It shoots smooth, though compared to a Bronco or Benjamin Legacy there’s still some vibration. That could be cured by either tighter fitting of the powerplant components (mainspring, piston, spring guides) or with the application of black tar, but I haven’t done either and I doubt I will.

The Rekord trigger on my rifle is adjusted about as light as I dare go. It releases under 8 oz., yet cannot be bumped off the sear. It’s so light that my analog trigger-pull gauge cannot measure it. After a light first stage, the second is the equivalent of a target release. Paul Watts lightened the trigger return spring, which helped stage one, and he gave me a polished trigger blade.

The R1 was one of those rifles for which the artillery hold was developed. Without it, you’re looking at five-inch groups at 50 yards. With it, the groups can be one inch and sometimes slightly less. All that I’m saying applies to the .22 caliber rifle, only. The .177 and .20 caliber rifles should be equally accurate, but I don’t have enough experience to comment. The .25 caliber rifle was never as accurate as the other three calibers.

My dream gun
In the R1 book, I ended by telling the readers what my dream gun would be. Well, I never built it. And in the 15 years since the book came out, I’ve discovered that I really don’t have a dream gun. I like to change the tunes of the guns I keep as the mood strikes me. So, the tune that’s on this rifle now probably won’t be there a decade from now. It had a gas spring before this, and now it has a light steel spring tune. If I could find the parts, I would go back to a Mag 80 Laza tune, but those parts aren’t being made any longer. So, I’ll get interested in something else and make it into that.

The R1 in 2010
The R1 design is getting old. It’s like a ’57 Chevy. It still goes fast and it still looks nice and we enjoy the nostalgia, but the R1 is a dated design today. However, like the Chevy, it’s dated in the retro way that serious airgunners appreciate. The stock is real wood and the trigger hasn’t been cheapened. The barrel is all steel and full-sized. While many magnum rifles today are more powerful, they only exist because they stand on the shoulders of this rifle that paved the way to the first true magnum spring gun status.

Whether you need an R1 or not is entirely up to you, but I don’t think it’s as essential as it once was. The TX200 is an essential airgun because nothing in the world can do the same job it can, as well as it can. But that’s not true of the R1. For power, there are other spring rifles that overshadow this one. For accuracy there are several others that exceed it. But if you want to own a ’57 Chevy, then this is the only game in town.

163 thoughts on “Beeman R1 update report

  1. B.B.

    Good morning. Thank you for this report. I am not a young airgunner but have never been close to an R1 and always wondered about it.

    As of yesterday, I am looking for a new air rifle. I'll use it for target and silhouette (sp?). I was wondering about the RWS 34. Are all the RWS 34 rifles based on the same powerplant and barrel? I like the Meisterschutze Pro only based on looks. Is there a difference with the more inexpensive plain RWS 34? I like the quality of the 34 and I also like the open sights, even though I would likely use with a scope. My other option is the RWS 48 but I'm trying to keep expenses under cntrol, plus I really do not like the open sights in the 48.

    Update on firearms! Changed bolt head of Mosin and now works like a dream. The issue with feeding is gone and was due to a deformed bolt head rim and faulty extractor.

    I think I got the last Bulgarian Makarov from AIM. It is a great pistol. I shoots pretty high, but maybe that's me not using my pinky correctly

    Thank you


  2. tunnel engineer,

    Not only are all the 34 actions the same, but years ago there was a higher quality beech stocked gun called the 36 that shared the same action. And even the walnut-stocked 38 shared the 34 action. And in recent years, the 45 was using the exact same action as the 34.

    So it's a pretty well-used action.

    Good news on the Mosin. I guess you did have an unusual problem after all.

    And good luck getting the Makarov pistol. I know you will enjoy it for many years.

    B.B.

    B.B.


  3. Good morning B.B.,

    It sure is nice to see your R1!

    I can only imagine the wonderful memories that it has for you.

    How effective is the Vortex muzzlebrake?

    You're right–a well figured butt is always beautiful.

    Mr B.


  4. BB,

    My .177 R1 was my first springer and still my favorite airgun after 25 years of shooting. I just replaced the mainspring and piston/breech seals this January (it was down to 10 ft lbs); no other work was needed in all those years. It may be an old design by now but it is overbuilt and understressed and that makes for rock solid reliability. No plastic parts to get brittle. Only screw drivers and a spring compressor are needed for a rebuild. I also think the original R1 stock is one of the cleanest and best looking factory stocks.

    With the right ammo it is surprisingly accurate – I can repeatedly shoot quarter-inch 5-shot groups at 25 yards with Kodiaks. Hitting soda cans and 2×4 blocks at 75 yards is easy.

    It is a bit heavy but that also makes it solid and feel like it will last forever. I am only 45 years old but I believe my R1 will still be shooting after I am history.

    Paul in Liberty County


  5. Mr. B.,

    I didn't find the Vortek muzzle brake very effective on the R1. It did work a little on some other rifles.

    Dennis Quackenbush made me a special brake with a very heavy weight that really did make a difference on a Beeman Kodiak I tested. I think the Vortek weight is too light to have much of an effect. I keep it on because it looks good.

    B.B.


  6. Paul,

    You said it right. Understressed or overbuilt. The R1 was the first airgun to go supersonic in the Mach I from Ivan Hancock. That was a custom $1,500 rifle that has probably quadrupled in price by now.

    B.B.


  7. B.B.,

    5 years and never an article on your fabled R1?

    Your analogy of the R1 and '57 Chevy is spot on. The R1 has classic lines that in my eyes cannot be improved upon.

    Forgive me for being nit-picky but I think this passage speaks to one of your mantra's but doesn't make sense to me the way it was written. In the first paragraph, under the picture of your custom PW trigger, you say:

    "But I quickly learned what I now tell other new airgunners–velocity without accuracy sucks, and you give up too much power by getting a powerful airgun in .177 caliber."

    Do I need more coffee?

    "The Beeman R1 Supermagnum Air Rifle" is a must read for all passionate airgunners. Thanks for the snapshot today from your fine book.

    kevin


  8. Kevin,

    Let me test my knowledge of "BB-speak" and my own newly acquired and stil Very slim knowledge of airgunning: I think he means that too much power (in foot-pounds) is wasted with the .177 caliber. By going to .22 with the same gun you will lower the velocity some but deliver more energy at the target.

    BB: Did I get that right??

    -Alan


  9. BB,

    If the R1 is the '57 Chevy of springers, yours is blue with flames and 'Cragers'.

    MrB, I concur, nice butt.

    dsw

    no way, w.v; conkers.

    it's gonna be a good day today!



  10. B.B.

    If the R1 is the 57 Chevy of airguns and the R9 is often thought of as a great little all around gun, where does the R7 land in your opinion?

    Bub



  11. Going with the car analogies, if the R1 is the 57 Chevy, then the Crosman 22XX guns are the air-cooled VWs. Cheap to buy, easy to work on, highly modifiable, and with the right parts, capable of blistering performance far in excess of their original design.

    Jim in PH




  12. Vince,

    The Diana 45 came out in the early 1970s, I believe. The first ones had leather seals all around and were barely able to develop over 800 f.p.s. When they put synthetic seals in them in the '90s the velocity increased to 1,000 f.p.s.

    B.B.






  13. Bub,

    Yes. Pyramyd Air is now the importer of Beeman's high-end European guns and ammo.

    The Beeman guns & ammo not made in Europe are imported by the new owner's of the Beeman company.

    Edith


  14. Molybdenum Disulfide

    How about using the moly product Echlin Ignition available through NAPA part no: ECH ML1? Acceptable for use on spring guns?




  15. A bit of sad news to report. Various news sources are reporting this morning that the Marlin Firearms Company in New Haven, Conn will be closing as of June 2011 and laying off their 265 employees.

    The first firearm I ever had a chance to fire some 40 plus years ago was a Marlin Model 60 22lr. My Dad still has the gun and it still works.

    I know everyone's best wishes go out to the employees and their families affected by the closing.

    Bub


  16. Moly,

    NAPA doesn't mention what percentage of their product is actual moly, so I would be hesitant to use it for that reason.

    The best locally available source I've found is Honda's Moly 60 grease that they use in their motorcycle bearings. I picked up an 8 oz tube for about $10 or so a few years back and don't expect to ever need more than that. All of their Honda Motorcycle dealerships seem to have it in stock or can order it with no shipping cost.

    Although, Russ Best suggests ordering from McMaster-Carr or Brownells as he says the Honda Moly grease base will diesel.

    Bobby



  17. B.B.,

    Frankly, I don't see how you keep so much info about the various guns straight anyway. It's a bit inspiring, actually, to see how quickly you answer the many "how much is my gun worth" questions that hit the older blog postings.

    Kudos to you!

    Bobby


  18. Antiseize,
    Use the copper based rather than the silver aluminum stuff. Very, very thin coat in the compression chamber and coat the sides of the piston seal, too. It won't diesel if you get it right. You can coat the spring with it also, but if you have any slop in fit between the spring to piston or the spring to spring guide, expect some vibration. A more viscous lube on the spring will provide more vibration damping on loose fits.

    Might want to also look into some of the products from Jim Maccari at Air Rifle Headquarters.



  19. AlanL:

    Crosman makes the Marlin Cowboy BB gun under what I would assume is some type of license agreement with Marlin Firearms.

    Marlin Firearms are best known for their line of lever action rifles.

    Bub


  20. Hi all I'm new to these blogs… Does anyone know where I can get the small screw that goes inside the breech it's visible when you pull back the bolt (on a crosman 2260). I ordered the steel breech from crosman and I lost it…help. None of the hardware stores have anything that small. It looks like a #5 hex screw

    thanks, Erick


  21. Erick

    You probably don't want to resort to this, but if you have to, you could order another from Crosman directly ( buy many spares ). It is part number 1322BO27. You have to call to order.

    1-800-7AIRGUN (724-7486)

    I may have the specs on that screw somewhere, if I can find it, I'll get back to you.



  22. Bub,

    Thanks. I figured the name could just be a coincidence.

    I'm currently looking at buying a .410 pump shotgun. I will take a look at Marlin too, if they make one. But perhaps that's a bad idea if they won't be around in the long run to maintain it.

    -AlanL


  23. AlanL,

    The Marlin Cowboy is made either in China or Turkey. I believe China.

    Nobody makes everything with their name on it these days. Remington sells guns made in Turkey and Russia.

    A Marlin gun will still be repairable a century from now, as long as special parts aren't needed.

    B.B.



  24. AJ

    After reading your post, I scrambled to take a look at my 1377c, and yep, I had a dried up water bug screwed into the hole where the breech screw goes! No wonder my accuracy had been off.

    I know just what you mean about taking a synthetic stock when you can't get your hands on a wood one. For instance I had to settle for a 953 recently because some sneaky snake….;^)

    Only joking, I'm glad you got the 853 AJ. I do like the 953, but with the current sights I must really concentrate, which is not my forte.


  25. Well you've cleared up why the stock mounts on my new (to me, did a trade) Venom tuned HW80 looks like they were welded by a drunk monkey. I don't think Beeman did the repair as the screw holes don't line up. It'll be a fun time fixing the misalignment.

    This is the 2nd mystery you've cleared up lately – I have a Diana 45 that had a chunk chiseled neatly out of the stock on the top rear right side – now I can assume it was someone making clearance for a target sight.

    Nick



  26. rikib

    The steel breech install on your 2240 is a breeze, don't sweat it. It should take only a few minutes. It involves removing only 2 screws in the back, one slotted and one hex-head, and removing the barrel band in front. Then you pull the old breech off, put the new breach w/bolt on, and replace and tighten the 2 aforementioned screws, replace the barrel band and tightening the set screw which will be in the new steel breech, but was not in the old plastic one. Tighten the bolt handle into the bolt and you are done. There is a metal ring that fits into the air transfer port between the barrel and air chamber that you will need to orient correctly but it is easy.

    My best advice is to have the proper tools. You do not want to strip (or lose) the breech screw Erick was talking about. It is a .050" hex head. Make sure you have this exact size. Remember, an infinite number of allen wrenches is still an incomplete set. Also loctite all the small set screws, including barrel-band screws.

    I posted this link on working on the 2240 for you a while back, but I think you must have missed it.

    http://www.americanairgunhunter.com/crosmancover.html





  27. LOL!!! I try real hard to put all my sights and odds & ends into individual plastic zip lock bags and label them with a marker. The bag with my 1377 original breech, bolt and sights was left open and………all this time I thought there was a tiny screw in there. Stupid bug!!!

    Anyhow, there's good news Slinging Lead, theres a giant pillbug upgrade that will tighten that breech right up.



  28. Slinging Lead
    Thanks for that info. I saved that site to my favorites so I won't loose it. Thankfully the breech kit comes with that size allen wrench. That thing is so small I did not even realize it was a screw, don't know what I thought it was. Anyway gotta go get some more loctite cannot find mine getting frustrated looking for it. Easier to just get more. Thanks again.


  29. Hello all, I'm not a frequent visitor to the blog, but a friend of mine is, and he asked me to weigh in on yesterday's home-defense topic. I teach a variety of firearms courses for a US distributor, (can't say which one, for what I'm about to preach), including use of firearms for self defense in the home.

    On the subject of tactical flashlights, these are wonderful things, but are meant to illuminate, nothing else.

    Here's some perspective. 1 candlepower, (the US measurement for light-source brightness), is equivalent to 12.57 lumens, (The British-used metric).

    If you walk about the hardware stores, you'll see 500,000-candlepower flashlights, (even million-candlepower), the sealed beam of a car headlight is hundreds of thousands. A 600-lumen light is, well, not very bright, and not going to incapacitate or disorient anyone.

    Secondly, lumen is not the metric we'd use to determine the illumination effect on an object, for that, we'd use Lux. A 1000-lumen light loses its illumination intensity directly proportional to the distance the object is from the source. A 1000-lumen flashlight isn't going to be anywhere near 1000 lumens 15-feet away.

    Third, humans do not respond to point-source light the way animals do. We are built differently, (we have hands), and we have acquired response mechanisms to point-source lights since we were tiny. (we live with light bulbs, headlights, and cars with sun-glare, etc)

    Shine a bright point-source light on a human, and he/she INSTINCTIVELY, and very effectively, simply blocks it out by putting one had directly over it.

    So, here we are, lying in bed, sense an intruder in our room, and whip out our flashlight. Regardless of the power, our fiend merely block the point source with his hand, and here is what we call our "critical stand-off".

    We've illuminated the room, albeit indirectly. Our intruder now sees us, has his gun aimed at us, and we are left defenseless…

    Next move..??

    Fred


  30. Fred

    Shoot 'em with the shotgun while he's got his hands up?

    At least I won't have the persistent white spot in the center of my vision.

    I'm not saying it's a magic stun gun, I am saying it gives you a momentary advantage while you (or your loved one) reach for your firearm of choice. I am a restless sleeper and can't have a loaded firearm under my pillow.



  31. BB –

    So with the "New Beeman" importing Chinese guns, and Pyramid importing European ones, do you think there's any chance Shanghai-Airguns SS-2, the bolt-for-bolt copy of the FWB 65, will be coming back to the States — perhaps as the Beeman "65"?

    The Shanghai website shows the current version with quite handsome looking match grips. It might compete well against the Izzy for the entry market. About the same 450 fps velocity. I ask because I always wanted a "65" and never quite came up with the money before it was gone.

    BTW, will Pyramid be putting the Beeman name on the guns it sells?


  32. Pete,

    I look for Shanghai to bring in their new models. The old stuff probably will go away. That's just a guess.

    The Beeman guns will look exactly like they always have. Pyramyd Air is simply the importer. Their name will not be on anything except the warranty material.

    B.B.


  33. Fred,

    Thank you. Your statement corroborates my viewpoint entirely.

    Slinging Lead,

    I believe light as a weapon will be ineffective unless its power is greatly concentrated at its source (like a lens or mirror focusing sunlight), or Light Amplified Serially Emitted Radiation (laser). Moreover, these also require careful aim, like a gun. So… just use the gun!

    Sound weapons (like that cruise ship used on pirates in Somalia) suffer from the same drawbacks.

    -AlanL


  34. Volvo,

    That's a pretty little rifle in overall good shape. Given the age, I would leave the whole finish alone, if possible. I think anyone could repair these flaws with luck, but even an expert could also make them look worse, requiring more work!

    Regarding the screw holse: First, what did you do so far?

    The left side is not bad at all, relatively speaking. It is hard to judge from close-ups (they make everything look 10X worse), but it might not "need" fixing if you keep it vintage. If you can't live with it, the same techniques as on the other hole would apply.

    The right side needs more work, since there seems to be wood missing, or the chipped out portion is different level? Sanding it down is not a good option, since you will have to match the stain in that area.

    Several options, none too simple. First, if you can find or make a pre-stained filler that matches the wood in that area, it might look like streak(s) of grain. Do not even think of trying to stain filler on the rifle, though.

    Second, and better, you can put slivers of wood in (I can send you something that should match pretty closely), but staining it to match is an ordeal. With either filler or wood, it will be difficult to sand flush without damaging the stain (on the replacement piece and the rifle) or the surrounding finish.

    Third, stain the white areas (if any — I don't see any) with a stain pen and fill/build up the cracked out areas with epoxy; in this case I'm not sure it would be compatible with the surrounding finish, which I do think is lacquer and epoxy is a pain to mess with; masking off the area a la surgery is critical:).

    I bet others will chip in, also, maybe with better ideas. My main concern would be that the finish seems original and in excellent shape for that age, meaning that fixing the screwholes would ideally be kept localized as possible.


  35. I did find some crosman 1077W air rifles for sale, but I could not bring them back due to the fact that the stocks would warp if I brought them back through my hot tub time machine.



  36. Volvo,
    One more thing, obvious but I forgot to include it: If that split out area is standing proud, try to get it to lie down flush. It may not look any worse than the left side in that case, which in my opinion is a level of magnitude better. Acetone may weaken the superglue, but also the finish.


  37. B.B.
    “Wife No. 2 turned out to be much nicer than No. 1”
    Mine too!
    Any idea where I might find a rubber bump for the 27’s butt?

    Slinging Lead,
    The 1077W was a blast to shoot and out to 10-15 yards was as accurate as anything. Unfortunately, the seal blew out after about a month or so. My luck with CO2 has never been good….so off she went “as is” to a new home. I would try and find a wood stock if you want one, they also made laminates which look nice too.

    Bg Farmer,
    The color never even occurred to me. Good point. In the photos I have already lightly wiped the whole stock with tru oil, since I could not really just do the area I messed up.
    I just didn’t have anything to sand it with at the time.
    I am hoping to sand just a little off and then give a second coat – I have the wipe on, not the spray tru oil.
    The wood is all there, just sticking up.


  38. ajvenom,

    I spent a good bit of time in hot tubs during the 80's – ah to be young again – anyway don't worry about the wood getting wet on the 1077, It will dry out. : )


  39. Volvo,
    Try to get that wood down, then:)! And stick it there with as little _wood_ glue as possible, wiping of any excess. A thin glue line if unavoidable won't be that huge a deal, and since it seems like the tru-oil is sticking, it will color the area somewhat.





  40. Mr B,
    Can’t say for sure about the 27, but she knows I’m a butt man.

    Just for the heck of it, this weekend we should post a list of all our current and ex’s – airguns that is.

    I’ll go first; my sincere apologizes to the ones I forgot….

    1. BSA Lightning XL in .25 with RM tune
    2. Beeman R7 in .177 Santa Rosa
    3. Beeman R7 in .20
    4. Beeman R1 in .177 and .22 Santa Rosa
    5. Beeman R1 Carbine 22
    6. Beeman HW97K in .177 with PW tune
    7. FWB 124 Deluxe with RM tune
    8. Gamo CFX in .177
    9. Benjamin Legacy in .177
    10. Webley Patriot in .25
    11. RWS 850 in .22
    12. Crosman 1077
    13. Diana 23 in.177 circa 1955
    14. Diana 25 in .177 pre WWII
    15. Diana 40 in .177 circa 2002
    16. RWS 92 Cometa 220 in .177
    17. Daisy 880 w metal x 2
    18. Daisy 881 wmetal
    19. Daisy 922
    20. Daisy SG 22 x 2
    21. Daisy 747
    22. Daisy 499
    23. Daisy 25 Anniversary
    24. Crosman 760
    25. Webley Raider in .22 – two shot
    26. Crosman Discovery in .22
    27. FX Whisper in .177
    28. FX Cyclone in .22
    29. BSA Meteor by Ithaca in .22
    30. Izzy 61
    31. BSF 55 in .177
    32. Walther LG 55
    33. Beeman P1 in .177
    34. Daisy Christmas Story 25 year
    35. HW50S in .22 with PW tune
    36. HW30S black and nickel in .177 with PW tune
    37. Daisy Gamo 130B in .177
    38. Webley Hurricane .177
    39. Hy-Score 807
    40. Sheridan C9 in .20 cal
    41. RWS 850 in .22
    42. QB78 in .177 with Mike M tune
    43. Predom Pistol in .177
    44. EB22
    45. Daisy 99 – Champion
    46. Daisy 1894

    Wayne – we can just look at the Blue Book to see your list :)



  41. Volvo,
    I think it should, usually its just diluted acetone, if I recall correctly — haven't used it recently:). Mask off a small working area, though, as the finish seems chemically vulnerable. The left side will be fine in my opinion, if you just sand it down very lightly — looks like the oil puddled a bit, but the "distance" shot seems acceptable already, at least to me.

    Here's my little list:
    Hammerli 490
    QB88 (wife's)
    Red Ryder 1938
    Red Ryder 1938B
    QB36-2 with shade-tree supertune:)
    Daisy Powerline 1200 CO2 pistol

    I don't have to worry about anyone seeing this and wanting to steal my airguns:)!



  42. AlanL,
    Yes, you are correct. He is in the same category as Wayne, we can just pick up a Blue Book to see his collection.

    But he is welcome to play if he wants.

    I've already thought of a few more – like the one from the guest blog yesterday…


  43. Volvo,

    OK, here goes… man I hope I don't leave any out…

    1) Crosman 760
    2) Crosman 760 40th yr edition
    3) Gamo CFX
    4) Marksman Pistol
    5) well there's a problem with this one, see, it doesn't exists!

    :)



  44. AlanL,

    Yes, I double posted. I will start with #45 when I have a chance and add the rest.
    You are also correct that the TX 200 is missing. The HW97K was in my stable at an early date and the TX is just too similar. I also invested in a full house Paul Watts tune for that one.

    I passed on the S410 for the FX Cyclone, just personal preference – Smaller, lighter, allows lower scope mount, 3 specific power levels, etc.

    As far as the RWS 52, I have shot one….just not my cup of tea. When it comes to Springer’s, I am pretty much a 90% HW guy.


  45. AlanL,I hate to do this but I must…I am Frank B,and I only have about 50 or 60 airguns in my collection.I think you may be mixing me up with the Frank that Kevin recently posted a link to…Who has more than 300 airguns magnificently displayed in a huge gun room!Mine are in every corner and nook that I can fit them.


  46. My list:

    1) 1960's Daisy BB gun– don't remember which- mom gave it away when I went off to school… boo hoo :-(
    2) Crosman 1377C with RB walnut Sportsman grips.
    3) Daisy Model 25 bb-gun, 2010 edition.
    4) Air Venturi Bronco in .177
    5) RWS Diana 34P (Panther) in .177
    6) RWS Diana 54 in .22
    7) RWS Diana 52 in .22
    8) RWS Diana 350 in .22
    9) Crosman 2240 Custom w/ 10" LW barrel & short steel breech in .177.
    10) Marlin Cowboy bb-gun (on order)
    11) 1850 fps airgun in .22 with 18 grain pellet and 19 lb cocking effort: Year 2016!

    -AlanL


  47. Bg farmer,

    Good point. While I have been chomping at the bit to try out the .38 special +P+ loads, I should state that I only have four air guns left on that list, and one of those is earmarked for a friend.


  48. FrankB,

    You're right- that was Kevin's link originally. I should've mentioned that.

    Not to worry. We all know that if only you had another $100K or so lying around, your gunroom would look that way too!

    Wayne:

    Time to play. Post a link to your gunroom! And of your range too.

    -AlanL


  49. OK that sounds like a fun game!
    I don't think anyone is going to see this and want to steal my guns anyway, either.

    1. Daisy Model 95 Western carbine. Wore this one out as a kid. New 1958. Long gone.
    2. Beeman Model 1763 Silver Bear. Still have it, spring worn out.
    3. Daisy/Winchester 800.
    4. Daisy 856.
    5&6. Daisy 880's.
    7. Walthers PPK/S. Needs a seal.
    8. Daisy 15X. BSA Laser.
    9. Crosman 760.
    10. Daisy 1938B Red Ryder.
    11. Daisy 1938B 70th Ann. Edition.
    12. Crosman Storm XT.
    13. Beeman RS2.

    Nothing too expensive here. Just a lot of fun to shoot.

    Les

    PS I had a 57 Chevy, too (Model 210 2-door sedan). Nice car for high school, but man, what happened
    to them in 1958?


  50. here's the Haenels;
    Model 1 DRP .22
    Model III-284 .177,believed only one in USA
    Model 303 .177 sporter
    Model 303 super .177 match
    Model 310 4.4mm roundball rptr.
    The FWB's
    FWB 150 Match
    FWB 300s type 2 universal Match
    FWB 124 Paul Watts tuned,[3]stocks
    The BSF's
    BSF S20 NIB! select stock opt.
    BSF 55 deluxe NIB!
    BSF/HW Marksman model 70 .22


  51. Beeman P1 .177
    Beeman C1 NIB!!!! .177 select stock
    Beeman RS2 dual calibers TDR
    Beeman Webley Tempest .177
    [2]Marksman 2004 .177
    Walther PPK x2
    IZH 46M
    IZH 61
    IZH Drozd
    Walther nighthawk
    S&W 78G man,I quit,I just looked at my old Crosmans…..



  52. Volvo,no not yet,I'm kinda having to budget.You know,I have to pick and choose my battles.My old caddy just blew a motor.I did just buy a Slavia 619 and a Crosman 112 W/ box& tank to go with my 111 that shoots hard and still has co2 in the tank!



  53. Volvo,is there something on my list that you would like to play with for a while??
    I left out the USFT #92 and the full house Condor…..Frank B


  54. FrankB,
    Thanks for the offer, but I am good right now. I have never shot a Theoben, but Chuck was telling me they had just sold them all in his shop and I thought maybe you had picked one up.

    He said they were amazingly smooth, but I would think an HW with a Paul Watts tune would be similar?

    The R1 he has on his wall is supposedly from the cover of the Beeman Catalog when they were first introduced. He told a quick story of how they just held the scope mounts on with tape for the photo shoot. That would be an wonderful one to own. If nothing else, I got to hold it.


  55. Please give Chuck my best regards next time you see him.He is a national treasure in my eyes.Gosh,just holding it or hearing that story….I hope they are treating him first rate!Oh well,I'm going to bed and dream about the one that got away.Later,bro


  56. 1. Crosman 1377c, disguised as a 2289
    2. Air Airms TX200 MkIII .177
    3. Diana 52 .22
    4. Benjamin Discovery .177
    5. IZH 61
    6. Air Venturi Bronco
    7. Wire-Stock Daisy #814
    8. Daisy Powerline 953 TargetPro
    9. Benjamin Marauder .22

    I should mention that the Maurauder and the Discovery came from the factory infested with termites, the TX200 has woodpecker holes in it, my cat thinks that the Diana is a scratching post, and AJ sometimes uses the Bronco to test the pH in his Hot Tub Timemachine.

    Also, I have a moat filled with molten lava. Stay away.




  57. Some of you all have impressive collections, (is that why you count your wives, also..?).

    I just noticed that my plain old 100-watt lightbulb is 1500-lumens, so if it's OK with you all, I'll just turn on the lights….

    B.B. Seruously, though – Is there any truth to the rumors that Evanix has new PCP rifles out that hold 900cc of air and are semi-automatic? I've been waiting a long time for a reasonably-priced semi-automatic?

    Ed Pikor


  58. Ed,

    In my experience the Koreans don't understand what the term semiautomatic means. They describe a double action revolver as a semiautomatic.

    Now, they may have created a semi this time, but in the past they have used that term incorrectly.

    B.B.


  59. Crosman makes the same "semi-auto" mistake with regards to the 1077. I guess I can sorta understand the confusion – if they describe the gun (properly) as a "double-action", a lot of shooters are gonna be rather perplexed.


  60. Volvo, Frank B,
    Chuck report: He got out of the nursing home on a Friday and was back to work on Saturday. He was supposed to take it easy for a few weeks. Kathy and I have been giving him grief, but that generation has a work ethic unlike any other. Volvo, if you go up to see him, he'll perk up quite a bit if you bring your wife.

    Continuing Volvo's list of guns I used to own:
    1. BSA Stutzen. .22 cal tap loader
    2. Beeman R1. .25 cal Laserized
    3. Beeman R10. .20 cal
    4. Weihrauch 50S .177 cal
    5. early model Air Arms TX200. .22 cal. RWS badged.
    6. Beeman/HW77. .20 cal full rifle length

    All stolen. Probably by the contractors that worked on the house after a major storm two years ago. Lesson learned the hard way.


  61. derrick38

    Their retched souls will writhe in agony for all eternity. I only hope they get cancer of the genitalia first.

    I once had a VW Jetta that was stolen from the parking lot of one of our local rapid transit authority stations. When I reported it to the "security" officers, (all of whom were sitting in an air-conditioned office) they replied, "Yeah, that happens alot around here." I bet.

    The car was found the next day, at some skid-row apartment complex, totaled, of course. Nice.


  62. Ed Pikor:

    The problem with true semi-auto airguns for most of us is cost. The few on the market are very expensive ($1500+/-). Makes it easier to fool ourself's into calling the 1077 a semi.

    Bub


  63. Derrick38,

    I mourn over your loss. I am a contractor and really hate it when low life scumbags steal, especially when it has a reflection on my trade.

    my air gun collection is nothing to brag over, none of them are of any quality, but I would feel equally violated should they disappear.


  64. B.B.,

    I'd value your opinion on the following: Setting aside the Bronco, if you were to buy a youth rifle, would you choose the Weirauch HW25L, HW30S or Diana Schütze?

    Thanks,
    AlanL


  65. B.B.,

    Pyramyd describes the Weihrauch HW25L as having a Post Globe front sight, whereas Weihrauch describes it as having a Tru-Glo fiber optic front sight. Which is correct?

    In the case of the HW30S Pyramyd says fiber-optic front sight and Weihrauch doesn't specify but shows the globe. Do you know what it is?

    Thanks,
    AlanL




  66. All:

    Diana has finally posted their 1890-2010 120th Anniversary Edition Product Catalogue. Unlike the 2008 and 2009 editions, which were protected PDFs, this one is unprotected. It features a brief history of Diana and has a nice picture of their 1903 Model 3.

    You can download it here: 2010 Diana Product Catalogue

    Enjoy,
    -AlanL



  67. Hi All,

    I've been reading here a bit after purchasing a 392 from pyramid very recently (dad asked for his 40's crossman back) and a couple of things are bugging me. I would appreciate your input.

    First off when I received it the bolt handle had worn through the inside box and there was a dent in the stock as if it had been forced down into the wood. I can't tell if the "dent" in the stock was put there on purpose or if it was crushed somewhat by the bolt handle and what damage that might cause. Is this a huge red flag? It seems to operate fine except the following.

    A little air remains in the gun after it is fired. I haven't ever pumped it >8 and it does it for all pellets. The gun has been fired only ~150 shots. I have read here that this could be a weak spring and bad seals but this gun is brand new. I haven't oiled the pump head thinking it would be over oiled from the factory, but am wondering if I should be doing that or sending this back instead. Is it stupid to oil it and try to shoot this problem away?

    Issue with returning it is I have put ~150 rounds through it and removed the rear sight scratching the barrel paint a touch in the process. I wasn't concerned until reading these blogs. I may opt for a steroid tune at the end of the nesting season for our bluebirds and martins as well, but it has a job to do for now.

    Sorry to go on and on but I am also wondering if there is a safe idiot proof way to remove the paint overspray in the crown of the barrel (brass)? Or will that shoot out too?

    Thanks!


  68. Bub:

    I agree. Paying $1500++ for a couple steel tubes and some valves made in Sweden means I'm paying to support someone else's welfare state and I'll have no part of it.

    The Koreans are much more efficient and productive, and the quality is damn near identical.

    Ed


  69. Anonymous 392:

    If you're still inside of your 30-day return privilege, call Pyramyd, explain what happened and return it for exchange or refund. If you've waited more than 30 days, you're out of luck.

    -AlanL


  70. Kevin (and anybody else interested),
    I've been enjoying all your projects, though seriously overwhelmed at both the quantity and the quality.

    My turn, but it won't overwhelm you. Here's a slideshow of my pistol kit build:

    http://picasaweb.google.com/BGFarmer0/KentuckyPistolKit?authkey=Gv1sRgCPHo8JXT_OenQA#slideshow/5453368155224304354

    The main purpose of the build was to practice (economically) lock panel shaping and entry pipe inlets, but I think it came out OK overall; the secondary purpose was to provide a companion with similar hardware (sideplate, triggerguard, thimbles, etc.) and carving (forestock shaping) to my rifle.

    There's a few pits left in brass — the sand-castings I rec'd this time were rough as cobs, more so than last time. The butt-plate(?) started out as a cap, but I wanted to preserve the birds-head shape of the grip, so I modified it a bunch and joined it up with the rear strap on the triggerguard. I did cheat by using a screw instead of a pin on the front strap of the triggerguard, but I can always change that later. I also improved my inletting technique quite a bit, but then lost some ground when I tried to use filler as sanding primer:(. I used a shortened rifle ramrod entry pipe, and another one unmodified for the front.

    Probably I'll leave it alone for now, as I always end up redoing the whole thing anyway:), but maybe next winter. With a few exceptions, the beech wood came out nice, I think. I call it "rusty nut" — a mix of three different oil stains, then 5 coats of tinted polyurethane, and another 4 coats of satin clear. These were all very thin coats, so I think even you will like the results a bit.

    Let me know what you think — good or bad.


  71. BG_Farmer,

    I like the color and the amount of "shine" in the finish. Also like the sanding job, the way the curves meet the flat areas.

    How about a little nip picking now. I'd like to see the back edge of the brass end on the ram rod lining up exactly even with the brass end of the stock cap.

    Basically, I gotta say–good job sir.

    Mr B.


  72. BGfarmer,While I lack the prerequisite knowledge to be critical….I think you've done an eye pleasing job!The only thing missing is the patina on the brass that only comes from use and the passage of time….which I hope we all have a wealth of!Nice work:]


  73. You know, I'm embarrased now to display to all my collection. Drrick38,my sympathies for your loss. I had a Scirocco that lost two radios and was ultimately totaled when a tree fell on it.
    AlanL, time to start experimenting with .177's!

    Ah, it's pizza time – dinner.

    Fred PRoNJ


  74. BG_Farmer,

    You're setting the bar mighty high with that Kentucky Pistol.

    I really like the color and finish. When do your classes begin on poly?

    What I'm most impressed by is the customizing. That pistol looks nothing like the one on the box. Did you make the sideplate and butt cap? Terrific job of modifying the cap so it joins up with the rear strap.

    Is it just lighting or is there something black around the rear screw on the sideplate? I think the pits that remain from the sand casting make the gun look period correct.

    Assume this is a .50 cal?

    Great work!

    kevin


  75. Tom,
    Which would you recommend for use w/ my Mrod–Leapers 44-16×50 in the pyramyd package or the more expensive Hawke 4-12×40 airmax? I want a bright, clear adjustable picture. I realize there is a price difference but that's okay if provides more value. Thanks!


  76. Mr.B,
    Thank you. The curves are a bit more complex and tighter than a rifle, so I was pretty happy to keep all the lines sharp. For a cheap kit, the stock has a nice shape to start with, but the lock panels were atrocious. I think I still left them too thick (e.g., around the lock), but it was definitely progress for me.

    I agree about the ramrod. As shipped, the muzzle cap and stock have a gap, which I tried to eliminate, but that leaves the ramrod a little long. I'll probably file off that bit or deepen the hole, if there is any wood left in that area, which is pretty close to the trigger.

    FrankB.,
    I agree 100% about patina, although I wish that were the only thing that could be improved:). Patina actually happens at a good clip when the brass is coated with BP residue and lube from the shooters hands during use.

    Kevin,
    I really appreciate your comments, but I do think that you could teach me a class on poly if you tried it:). The customization was the fun part, for sure, although the desire to keep it stylistically similar to my rifle gave me a nice tether. Even so, when I read somewhere that pistols had fewer stylistic constraints, I probably took it farther than intended:).

    The sideplate and buttcap were sand-castings I bought and then modified (by file and hacksaw). In the case of the sideplate, I'm loosely following a style I saw on two Jacob Young rifles, taking the closest stock sandcasting and filing off the bottom forward scroll, rounding the front and slightly shaping the finial. Here's the catalog version of the original part (and remember these are marketing photos:)):
    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(cnic0eag2dhkk52linvdzg45))/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=14&subId=152&styleId=590&partNum=SP-E-41-B

    The buttplate began life as a sandcast butt-cap, as in the link below (and the picture is of one that has been filed clean, which is not how they come to the buyer). I cut off the two sides and bent it to fit the contour of the grip. It would have probably been easier to start with heavy sheet, but I didn't want to waste my $10:).
    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/(S(cnic0eag2dhkk52linvdzg45))/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=14&subId=144&styleId=559&partNum=PBC-MA-9-B

    The black around the screw is chatter from my countersink (the only power tool I used was a portable hand drill, just because I don't have an "eggbeater"). I think it was in good shape at one point, but I needed to deepen the counterbore to get the lock in correctly when it came to assembly. This is one of those things where I need to find a better tool or figure out what I'm doing, or maybe just slow down:).

    I agree with you on the pitting, and it may stay like it is, I just wanted to point it out so it didn't seem like I was unable to see it.

    Yes, .50 cal. I'm happy with my choice after all the talk about HD lately:), but really it just makes it easier to keep balls and cleaning accessories in common with my rifle. The great thing about BP is that recoil can be controlled to a large degree by the load, so it could (I hope) be a real pussycat if its acceptably accurate with a lighter load. Now, I need to learn how to shoot a pistol.


  77. BG_Farmer,

    Just a wonderful piece of work. I'm amazed at the low cost of these sand cast pieces through track of the wolf.

    What a terrific pistol especially when you consider how well it compliments your rifle.

    Now you need to work on your buffalo coat, deerskin pants and coonskin cap. We have several rendevous here in Colorado every year where contestants dress up in period garb complete with period knives and bp weapons. They compete for prize money in knife throwing and shooting. Amazing sights.

    Your wonderful post and great pictures jazzed me enough to search on the net. There's another kentucky pistol kit on gunbroker for $100.00. Maybe one for each hip?

    kevin


  78. What I'm getting about the Connecticut Marlin closure is that the state is difficult to deal with. Politics and taxes difficult. I hear they will re-open in Kentucky. Employees won't be transported; they'll hire fresh.


  79. BGfarmer,I agree with your patina recipe.Send it to me and I'll provide it with some at NO charge to you.'Cuz I'm a nice guy….Frank B


  80. Kevin,
    I saw that one on Gunbroker, I think, someone stained the stock (without any modifications, apparently) and pretty much stopped. Worth $100 easily, just for a good experimental platform. Go for it — as you said, TOTW sells some pretty amazing stuff for a reasonable price. I haven't gotten into the "primitive" side of the hobby, but one of my friends bought a skunk pelt for a hat last year. Supposedly that is the hat to have; I'll stick to the coonskin cap:). I do need to work on some accessories of a practical nature, like powder measures and a horn — the plastic powder flask I bought is not long for this world, and the "bench measure" is annoying to use sometimes. Next winter, I think I'll build a flintlock.

    I haven't been to Colorado in years, since my wife's grandmother died. It would be a pretty place for that sort of event. My favorite part was the thunderstorms — very impressive for some reason.

    FrankB,
    Your generosity is amazing. Let me see if I can't get it started, then you can add more provenance:).


  81. B.B,

    So, the R1 is a dated design. Here we have a very well built rifle, wood and metal (with exception of the seals) good open sights and more than enough power and accuracy for most shooters, what would you propose to make it better?

    As for the TX200, "the essential rifle" fine it is indeed but to proclaim it is the rifle unto which no other comes near is codswallop!


  82. BB & co.;

    Someone on Yahoo Answers posted a question trying to ID a mystery gun. It sorta looks like a Beeman youth springer, but apparently it doesn't have the usual branding. Normally I'm reasonably familiar with most of the airguns that folks ask about on YA, but this one's stumped me. So I thought I'd ask here and see if anyone has ever seen one of these before.

    http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/470/1002596b.jpg

    http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6321/1002591x.jpg

    http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/6321/1002591x.jpg

    If anyone here has any idea what this might be, I'd appreciate the help. If you have a Yahoo account and want to answer, I'm including a link to the question. If not… I'll link back to this blog thread as the source.

    http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index;_ylt=AgsePUvnzp5RlcGu7ikKaPMgDX1G;_ylv=3?qid=20100327222407AAMSgUq

    J.


  83. B.B.

    Just yesterday I witnessed with my own eyes what bad execution can do to such a beautiful concept of a high-power breakbarrel springer as B1
    That wreckage was made in Turkey and is called Hatsan mod 125. I guess it was made with Diana 350 in mind, but no wood, only plastic.

    Fist – barrel. I don't know the way they make grooves, but it's obliously NOT the way to make them. Grooves' surface in some places reminds me of a grater, and barrel crown – I'm afraid they beat some cheap Chinese stuff in "who can do worse" competition.
    Despite that, breech lead-in is well-crowned.

    Second – cocking. If you cock 350 or Gamo 1250 – it is hard, but it is hard due to spring force. Here it is harder due to friction at too many points. It jerks and twithces all the way piston goes down. And the sound… well it sounds like there's definitely some sand got inside.

    Then comes third – the trigger. It IS heavy and with a very long pull, much heavier than old Gamo triggers and it really "breaks" in the end. Guess sears need some polishing and angle correction badly.

    Fourth is the shot itself. Frankly, I didn'n hear the report, as I was deaf from buzz, scratch and rattle. The rifle shaked and shivered like it was alive and VERY scared all the way the piston made its run towards the barrel. Some good spring guide and piston spring cushion are badly needed, as well as better spring or even gas spring. And of course it kicked me like a mule.

    The pellet went supersonic. There was obvious "twin" report and chronograph showed supersonic mps. Pellets went "somewhere targetwards" all the five times with 60 mm grouping @ 25 m from artillery hold. I could throw them better.
    To conclude – this airgun needs WAY much work to start shooting. If you are not ready to do so – vote with your bucks and buy Gamo 1250 or Diana 350 air rifle. H-125's only advantage is the price per mps.

    Here we call such air rifles "durostrel" – "foolshooter" or "vedroboy" – "bucketbuster" – a cheap and overpowered springer for those who like to boast their airrifle's power, but unable to hit a truck-sized target @ 10 m.

    duskwight



  84. duskwight,

    Your observations are the same as mine when I tested the even more powerful Hatsan 135. Such a rifle should never have been made, but someone did it anyway.

    And then a whole groups of people thought they could con the buying public that such a thing was desirable. It was sold as a Webley Patriot. No wonder Webley died a second time after that was offered!

    B.B.


  85. Benjamin 392,

    The bolt handle is not supposed to be pushed into the stock the way you describe. And the gun should not have air remaining in it unless it is pumped over 8 times. That one sounds like a bad one that needs to be exchanged, though. One thing the steroid tune will do is correct the valve problem.

    As for the muzzle, many people are removing that pain with chemical paint remover, in the belief that a clean crown with shoot better. If you do nothing, the pain will wear away over time and you'll get the same result.

    B.B.


  86. B.B.

    Thanks! That is exactly what I needed to know. I have until Mon. on my 30 days and it turns out it the scratches were just rubber that wiped off easily so I haven't harmed it in any way.

    We'll see if I end up doing something stupid during the exchange and end up with a marauder (unless you have a better suggestion in that vein).

    Benjamin 392


  87. Benjamin 392:

    Call them first! Don't just send it in without warning or it'll get there after your 30 days have expired and they will disallow the return. Get an RMA (Return Merchandise Authorization) number so they know it's coming back.

    -AlanL


  88. Thanks Alan, I will give them a call to discuss the situation. I misread the return policy and was going by the order date instead of receipt date so I have a bit more time.

    My compliments on the blog to all – there is a lot of interesting stuff and I probably wouldn't have recognized the problem without it.

    I was getting a bit attached to this one but the marauder is looking quite appealing at this point too.


  89. BG_Farmer,

    That's the one. They didn't get very far into finishing that kit before giving up.

    I'm not their buyer. I'm selling powder burners not buying.

    Right there with you on a skunk hat. There won't ever be a skunk hat on my head. Smelled the first skunk of the year about two weeks ago. Just a matter of time before the dogs get sprayed. Based on our dogs long history I predict that they will get sprayed about 1:30AM and will be loudly pleading to come in the house about 1:40AM.

    You just haven't lived until you're forced to give two labradors a bath at 2:00AM because they smell like skunk. Precious.

    kevin


  90. Nice collection of airguns out there!!!!

    WOW VOLVO…you've had or have a few airguns.

    Slinging Lead – nice try, if that were true, then just send me your airguns and I will fix them up. Of course I can't guarantee I will return them to you.

    Mystery airgun…my guess was Marksman, but BB beat me too it.

    My List:

    Crosman 776(sold), 2100, 1377, 1077, Quest 800, Benji Discovey w/.22 & .177 barrels & BB Scout(Mendoza 650)

    Daisy 953, 853, Ted Williams 880(Gave to a freind), 1894(70s-80s? Gave to a freind), Red Ryder, Model 105 Buck, 22SG, 622X & Wire Stock BB Gun #801.

    I finally finished going through the 853. After zeroing in with a scope at 10M here is a picture of the first 5 shots that I put in my photo gallery:

    http://picasaweb.google.com/ajvenom1/Ajvenom1#

    Lothar Walther Barrels Rule!!!!




  91. AJ

    I may as well send you all my airguns, judging by that group, you could do much better with them then I could. You are one hell of a shot.

    That Anschutz guy are whatever his name is, doesn't stand a chance.





  92. BG_Farmer,
    Dang, you're good! A fantastic job on the pistol!!

    I noticed on the box there is what looks like a picture of a different configuration of the pistol in the bottom right. Or is that a pistol?

    Also, I would liked to have seen a close up picture of all the parts, especially the stock, before you started. Kinda like a real version of the one on the box.

    -Chuck


  93. Chuck,
    Thanks, but I'm just learning. I intended, as in every project, to document the process, but I always end up doing these things at odd times and for fun. Also, there's always the feeling that it won't come out, so why bother:).

    Not my photos, but something like what you wanted, I think.
    Partly assembled in the white:
    http://www.dixiegunworks.com/popup_image.php?pID=3450

    Expanded kit photo:
    http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=KP50602

    I believe the photo on the box's lower right is intended to show the optional flintlock (which is hard/impossible to find), but the actual picture appears to be of a Trapper model pistol, judging by the thumb spur and triggerguard:
    http://www.traditionsfirearms.com/eshop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=KP51002

    I already posted links to the buttcap and sideplate parts, but here are the triggerguard casting and ramrod pipes.
    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=14&subId=155&styleId=704&partNum=TG-AFP-B

    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/partDetail.aspx?catId=14&subId=165&styleId=743&partNum=RP-TC-DR

    Normally I should have used one of the several pistol sets of ramrod pipes or eliminated the entry pipe, but neither option matched my "vision":) or objectives, so I modified a set of the ones I used on my rifle, mainly by cutting off the entry pipe and soldering on a new tab for the pin to what little was left of the original lug.


  94. BG_Farmer,
    Thanks for the extra pics. They do help see the extra effort you made to contour the stock like you did.

    It was that thumb spur that first caught my eye on the other pic, and I couldn't figure out if what turned out to be the double trigger guard was a cocking lever of some kind. Cocking lever on a BP? See what I know?

    -Chuck


  95. B.B., How long until Pyramyd Air gets the RWS TH56 and TH470? Are there any plans to carry the Webley Alecto? I would love to purchase these guns but there is nowhere in the U.S. to get them. Jon F.


  96. My humble list:
    Marauder
    Hammerli 490
    Crosman G1 Extreme (RIP)
    Crosman 766 (NIB – needs new seals)
    Crosman 760 (given to nephew)
    Daisy 717
    Crosman 1088

    Has any one tried the "new" Crosman Destroyer pellets? I picked up a tin today but haven't had a chance to shoot them.


  97. Bg Farmer,

    You guidance has proven sound. The 807 is looking well today, the wood glue, clamps, gentle steel wool plus my own improvising of a little finish restorer seems to have done the trick. I gave it one more coat of tru-oil today, and I will knock the gloss off in a day or two for the final results.

    B.B.
    Thanks for the tip on running down a rubber bump. Worst case, I will get one of kid’s hard rubber balls and try to make my own.



  98. Nice Kentucky Pistol BG……thanks for the slide show…I finally got it to work…had to update something I guess.

    Randy ….LOL!!! RIP…there was no rebuilding her? Those are some nice airguns. The main thing is that you like them and have a lot of fun. THe 1088 looks like a blast. The marauder, 717 and 490 are nothing to sneeze at. Have you tried lubing up the 776 with some crosman pellgun oil? Sometimes that does work wonders. Sometimes you have to pump quickly and to close an open valve sometimes. If no luck talk to vince or check out forums on rebuilding.

    I've been pretty lucky…I haven't lost an airgun yet, but I do follow all the maintenance advice I can find. With airguns, there isn't much you have to do.

    Slinging lead….the groups are thanks to the Daisy & L/W rifle…although I did shoot my 953 for 3 years and have been shooting airguns now for about 4 years. I did shoot a 776 for a few years when I was a kid. If you want a good laugh, I'll put the target sights on.

    Of course, I really did learn a lot about shooting until the last 4 years. I learned more about shooting from online airgun forums than anywheres else.

    So thanks to all of you here at the PA forum!!! Also, thanks to people at the yellow forum and the reviewcentre forum in the UK.



  99. duskwight,

    Nice review of the H125 "durostrel"! New word for me today! LOL! Sounds like it's more of a project than my TF99 was…

    /Dave


  100. Second wind…..
    Daisy 325 targeteer set complete!!
    Daisy wirestock #824
    Daisy christmas story 25th ann.RR
    Daisy 1200 x[2]
    Daisy 1700
    Hy-score 809 .22
    Hy-score 809 .177
    Gamo silver shadow
    Gamo hunter 220
    Gamo hunter 440
    Gamo hunter extreme
    Gamo pt 80x[2]


  101. Wow, I was thinking about getting an Tom Gaylord R-1 book either with a signature or ask Tom if he could sign one. You can definately forget about $22.50. They used to go around 50 dollars last year. I should have boughten one. They seem to have doubled in price lately.

    Oh well, having Tom help you out in the forum ……priceless.

    BTW….nice job BG in sending a shooting nut to a gun websight that has the words: "your shopping cart is empty" I had to unplug my laptop quickly and remove the battery. "whew" luckily my wallet is empty too. he he he


  102. Crosmans–here we go
    1077 x[2]
    38T x[3]
    111 with tank[still has co2!!]box
    112 with tank box
    150 Ted Williams
    150 w/target bell,box x[3]
    150 w/box
    2240 x[3]
    1377 w carbine .177 x[2]
    C11 w/laser
    Anshultz diopter w/inserts vint/NIB
    Benjamin 392
    Benjamin 422


  103. Forgot 2!
    Crosman 600 w/14" barrel& suppress.
    Crosman Mark 1 w/box
    Phew….I think that might be everything!
    AlanL-are you disappointed
    SlingingLead-great impression,you sounded just like me!


  104. b.b.,
    refering to the above q and a about the Leapers and the Hawke, which would you put on a target/hunting Mrod? or, is there another you would select under say $160? thanks!


  105. Franks B. What's a 325 targeteer…is that the original? I've seen some pistols, but not that model.

    Aaron..any comparison you can give between the RS1 and RS2 shooting wise?

    The Marauder crowd has been pretty quiet lately. Probably too busy shooting?


  106. Chuck,
    Yes, I also think those fancy spurred trigger guards on later guns are similar to the low-/high-wall and rollingblock cocking levers. Probably a natural evolution.

    Volvo,
    Good job, thanks for letting me know.

    AJ,
    Sorry about you trouble with the slideshow — so many standards for interoperability and so little actual cooperation. Empty Cart — go virtual shopping:).





  107. FrankB,

    No… I know THE Frank is in the Netherlands. But I see you are a Crosman guy all the way. Or is that just one shelf in Your gun room?! :-)

    -AlanL


  108. target/hunting Marauder guy:

    I would highly recommend a side parallax adjustment scope for your Marauder, with the 100mm wheel. It will enable you to easily fine-tune your focus while holding on target, very important for hunting.

    The Marauder is capable of great accuracy at long distances. Given your stated budget of $160, I would look at this scope.

    Leapers 3-12x44AO SWAT Rifle Scope

    If you can afford it, I would get higher magnification/larger objective.


  109. AlanL,You have to find all five times this weekend that I catalogged a little each time.Only then can you begin to sense the extent of my illness,I counted 60 but I left out a Slavia 619 in box and Quackenbush #1 from H.M.Quackenbush who was an amazing inventor!



  110. Benjamin 392

    In two of your posts about your 392, you mentioned the Marauder. You seem to be toying with the idea. If you can afford such a thing, do it. You will not regret buying this rifle.

    Realize, you will need to add a scope and at least a pump to charge the rifle. So a very conservative estimate is $700. This is without extra magazines. And pellets. You will need lots and lots of pellets.


  111. Frank B. – sure there's not more…..? I was wondering where the crosmans were. How do you like the mark I … I missed a on one by seconds in the yellow classifieds…it's the one that sold in 4 minutes. I saw it…I clicked on it..I was going to post a message…and it was gone.

    See Slinging Lead….I have no wife to blame that one on…he he he..I can't tell you the number of bids I've lost……those guys know a good deal when they see one and pounce.

    BB – ahh now I want a Daisy 25. Thanks. Anyhow, it was a nice read about the 325 set and your success with Balistol and Crosman Pellgun oil. BTW..Does Jim Coplen live in Rochester? We have a delivery terminal there. My very first route ran from Mankato to Rochester, MN to La Crosse WI. Well, if he's from MN he must be pretty good. BTW…I just got back from a nice long sunny ride through the back scenic highways and byways on my motorcycle…..now we're even. d;)


  112. AJVenom,how much was the one you missed out on?
    Can you imagine being the kid on the kid on your block to show up with that SCOPE mounted on your model 25???? That would be truly priceless.This one gives me great joy…for personal reasons as well.I am very grateful to have it.
    As for my Mark 1 .22,it's a flea mkt. leaker,with a torn box,but Tim at MAC-1 will fix that.


  113. I think it was around 100 dollars. It looked in good shape. That was a couple of years ago. Last one I've seen was 150 bucks. Little too much for me. I'd rather just get a new custom one for that kind of money.






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