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Things I liked:Drop in replacement assm (with the right tools). VERY smooth with no "twang" effect AT ALL. Just a solid "thump". Cocking effort "feels" a wee bit stiffer although after 20 shots I got used to it as if it were the original. Makes a big difference in the feel of the gun firing. Things I would have changed:nothing
... Read MoreThings I liked:Drop in replacement assm (with the right tools). VERY smooth with no "twang" effect AT ALL. Just a solid "thump". Cocking effort "feels" a wee bit stiffer although after 20 shots I got used to it as if it were the original. Makes a big difference in the feel of the gun firing. Things I would have changed:nothing. What others should know:Before the Pro-guide the rifle had about 1500 shots through it and could shoot 14.3 CP's at around 840- 850 FPS. I installed the Pro-guide and a washer as per BB's blog to try and get a little more velocity. Test fired about 5 shots for function and then set up the chrony. Did a 10 shot string and these were the results with 14.3 CP's:
1) 833.4
2) 838.4
3) 831.9
4) 837.8
5) 837.5
6) 842.0 (HIGH)
7) 825.9
8) 832.0
9) 837.7
10) 805.3 (LOW)
Avg = 832.2
ES = 36.75
SD = 10.48
Not bad for a drop in spring/guide. Plus the "feel" of the rifle now is so good you want to shoot it MORE. I didn't get a chance to do any accuracy tests yet, hopefully it will shoot as good as it feels.
Things I liked:Very affordable. Looks good. Does the job. Things I would have changed:Leapers should put a stronger cross-bolt and hex nut. Other than that nothing at all. What others should know:DO NOT overtighten or should I say tighten the hex nut on the cross bolts. They WILL strip (cross bolts). I usually use
... Read MoreThings I liked:Very affordable. Looks good. Does the job. Things I would have changed:Leapers should put a stronger cross-bolt and hex nut. Other than that nothing at all. What others should know:DO NOT overtighten or should I say tighten the hex nut on the cross bolts. They WILL strip (cross bolts). I usually use a Seekonk in/lb torque bar with a dial that reads 0 to 75 IN/lbs in 1 IN/lb increments and tighten my rings to 15 in/lbs and the mount (the part that bolts to the receiver) to 65 in/lbs. I couldnt even get to 50 in/lbs and I stripped out one of the cross bolts. Just be careful when tightening. Still very good rings at a VERY attractive price. Would buy them again.
Things I liked:Clear, bright glass. Good construction. 1 eighth MOA turrents allow for more precise adjustments versus traditional 1 fourth MOA turrents. Good power range and side parallax is easy to adjust. Elevation and windage turrents can be reset to "zero" after all adjustments are set. Things I would have changed:The flip
... Read MoreThings I liked:Clear, bright glass. Good construction. 1 eighth MOA turrents allow for more precise adjustments versus traditional 1 fourth MOA turrents. Good power range and side parallax is easy to adjust. Elevation and windage turrents can be reset to "zero" after all adjustments are set. Things I would have changed:The flip up caps are no good. They dont fit too well and my objective cap didnt stay closed at all. Invest in some butler creek flip ups and youre good to go. What others should know:Follow the directions when resetting the turrents to read "zero". Always make sure to adjust out the parallax at any distance or power regardless. If the reticle "moves" up and down with regards to the target you are out of parallax and need to turn the side "focus" (parallax) knob one way until the reticle stops moving. If you shoot regularly than you know what I mean but for the people who dont then they need to know this.
Shoulder the rifle with good support (front rest) and look through the scope at the target.
Now move your head (without moving the rifle) up and down very slightly. If you can see the reticle moving up and down you are out of parallax. You need to turn the side focus until that movement is GONE. Do this while SLIGHTLY moving your head up and down until the reticle stays put. The target should be sharp with the reticle sharp and not moving. Now all parallax is adjusted out. Every time you change the power setting or distance you need to check this. Do not go by the markings on the side turrent because you do not know the EXACT distance to the target plus the markings could be wrong.
An out of parallax (focus) shot will result in a miss and Ive seen too many shooters chase the shots thinking the scope is not holding a zero or they end up changing the elevation and windage adjustments. A waste of your time is the only end result. For more info on parallax search on google.
Things I liked:Rock solid.
Compensates for barrel droop (drop).
Perfect fit/ finish.
Not possible for scope to shift.
Designed FOR RWS Diana 48/52/54/460 Things I would have changed:Absolutely nothing. What others should know:I have this mount on my Diana 48. I've ran the medium rings and they are too high for me
... Read MoreThings I liked:Rock solid.
Compensates for barrel droop (drop).
Perfect fit/ finish.
Not possible for scope to shift.
Designed FOR RWS Diana 48/52/54/460 Things I would have changed:Absolutely nothing. What others should know:I have this mount on my Diana 48. I've ran the medium rings and they are too high for me so I need some low rings. The closer you can get the scope to the bore line the better anyway. The base already adds roughly 3/4 inch (0.70" when measured with calipers) or 19mm.
Things I liked:High power. Good trigger ON SINGLE ACTION ONLY (FORGET about the Double action pull its way too heavy). Good craftsmanship, not too heavy, but solid construction. One of the most affordable "high power" PCPs on the market. Things I would have changed:Make a bolt action/ magazine fed rifle with power like this, at
... Read MoreThings I liked:High power. Good trigger ON SINGLE ACTION ONLY (FORGET about the Double action pull its way too heavy). Good craftsmanship, not too heavy, but solid construction. One of the most affordable "high power" PCPs on the market. Things I would have changed:Make a bolt action/ magazine fed rifle with power like this, at this price.... I'd be all over it!! Have online parts support for this rifle. What others should know:This rifle is one of the most powerful PCP's you can get at this price range next to the Air Force Condor. Theoben/ Daystate/ BSA/ FX/ etc all START at the $1000 and up price range and some are not as powerful as the AR6, but offer more than 40 shots with less than a 10FPS deviation due to their regulated valves. With the AR6 you can get up to 10 full power (1000 FPS w/ 28gr Eun Jin) with the others dropping off gradually to about 900 FPS which is still very hard hitting with the 28 grainers. When the pressure drops to about 140 BAR you can load lighter pellets if you want more velocity. Some pellets dont fit well in the magazine (they have a loose fit). If youre using a hand pump and dont weigh more than 150lbs or so.... you're not gonna be able to pump the 200BAR, maybe 180 BAR which is good enough. Gun is about as loud as a firecracker.
Diana RWS 48 review entered on 2008-08-18 18:07:00
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Things I liked:Fixed barrel. Side cocking. Good, crisp trigger. Very good practice/target/small game rifle. Things I would have changed:Put a thinner front post. The factory front post is too thick to shoot with past 15-20 yards accurately. What others should know:It was difficult to scope this rifle as of recently
... Read MoreThings I liked:Fixed barrel. Side cocking. Good, crisp trigger. Very good practice/target/small game rifle. Things I would have changed:Put a thinner front post. The factory front post is too thick to shoot with past 15-20 yards accurately. What others should know:It was difficult to scope this rifle as of recently. Pyramyd has the LEAPERS DIANA weaver base available that compensates for barrel drop (droop). I would STRONGLY suggest that base and some LOW weaver rings. If you have a little bigger budget then the RWS 52 (same action as the 48 but has the raised cheek comb on the stock. Everything else is the same.) Would be the more ergonomical stock for the LEAPERS DIANA base because the base raises the scope about 3/4 of an inch and even with low rings my cheek is still a little low for a natural hold. If I had just gotten the 52 with the raised cheek comb it would've been PERFECT. Now I need to order a 52 stock for $220 from UMAREX or make a cheek riser if it really bothers me. If I knew then what I know now I would've got the 52.
Still with this gun and a 3-12x44 leapers scope I can put 5 shots into eachother at 25 feet rested. With the LEAPERS base, I zero'd at 20 yards as per the required zero and the next zero intersects at about 34 yards or so (meaning I hold dead center at 20 AND 34 yards for a hit).... Crossman premiers work well. I'd recommend this gun or the 54 to ANYONE looking for a quality, accurate, powerful springer.
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