Things I liked:This is a well-built gun that delivers on its promises.
It is easy to cock and accurate. Even brand-new, it shoots without roughness or buzz.
I like the stock. I think the light color is distinctive and attractive. The stock allows an easy, repeatable cheek weld.
The bluing is rich and even. I think this gun will last longer than I will.
The trigger breaks light and smooth compared to other lower-priced air rifles. This adds a great deal to the accuracy, as the gun does not wiggle when you squeeze the trigger.
It is a springer, and needs to held like one, as it will recoil a little when fired.
I put 120 rounds through mine he first time I had it at the range. I think I could have put 120 more through it before my arm would get tired. I can't say that about my other springers. Things I would have changed:Only two things.
This is a target rifle and I use it for shooting black bulls-eye targets. The black front post is hard to see against a black target. I painted the rear face of the front post white to see it better.
The safety works oddly. The safety cannot be engaged unless the gun is cocked. After firing, the safety remains on "fire". Thus, the gun cannot be transported or stored with the safety engaged. An empty, discharged gun will appear exactly the same as a loaded, cocked gun with the safety released. I like to store and transport my guns with the safety engaged (although they are unloaded). I would change the safety so it can be engaged whether or not the gun is loaded. What others should know:This is a gateway gun to upscale spring guns. It is way better than guns costing only a little less. The money spent building this gun was concentrated on areas that affect performance the most: the barrel and the trigger.
I bought the target variant because the sights are similar to the ones used on target guns my grand children shoot in their 4H shooting club. Obviously, you could buy the standard version if you intend to scope it and save a few bucks. But the target sights are good enough at 25 yards that it shoots within the range of accuracy of my scoped guns at that range. I do not intend to put a scope on this one.
Things I liked:Blowback slide. Realistic size and weight. Removable magazine. Good technical support with Umarex. Things I would have changed:Would prefer a folding handle on the piercing screw, like on a Gamo P-23. What others should know:Good dependable gun. Will give at least 60 good shots per CO2 cartridge.
I own two of these.
Things I liked:Just about everything! I've only had this gun two days and put 100 rounds through it. First 30 were Daisy wadcutters. Not real accurate, some bounce-back and hard to load. Switched to RWS Superpoint Extras and solved all the problems. This gun is sensitive to what you shoot through it.
My gun came with fiber optic sights. They are OK.
I like the use of the hammer as a latch, and the automatic safety is not troublesome.
The gun has good balance and feels like a firearm in the hand. It is not a cheaply made gun: it is a quality piece of machinery and should be selling for much more. It is far superior to other pistols in its price range.
This gun is rated at 410 fps, but it feels like it is shooting harder than that.
I like the adjustable rear sight. It is easy to adjust and dial in. This is another feature not normally found in this price range.
The trigger appears to be made of steel. It is not hard to pull, you shouldn't find your aim to be put off by releasing the trigger. The weight and balance of the gun makes it easy to hold on target. It also has a longer sight radius than many air pistols. Things I would have changed:Guns that are not reproductions of actual firearms do not need phony latches and buttons on them. The P17 shows a lot of restraint in that.
I read the cautions about a burr inside the cylinder cutting an o-ring, but as long as it works I'm not taking it apart. I am told the o-rings are standard sizes. I did buy a tube of white lithium grease "just in case".
In typical Chinese fashion, my gun came with an over-lubed piston. They used black moly grease: good for wheel bearings. I had to keep wiping this stuff off the piston because it gets all over fingers and shirts when loading the gun. I'll clean all that off and re-lube it with the white grease when I have to tear it apart.
The front hinge joint does not appear to be lubed. I'll touch that with a little oil.
The breech seal (another o-ring) is mounted on the valve assembly, and is oiled.
The breech end of the barrel is flat and smooth. It is difficult to insert a wadcutter pellet into it. Perhaps a small chamfer at that end would help in loading wadcutters. Pointed pellets presented no problem, round-nosed pellets should work fine too. What others should know:My gun has a vertical threaded hole on the left side of the valve assembly with no apparent purpose.
As you open the overlever, there will be a vacuum in the air cylinder for the first part of the piston travel forward (until the intake port is opened). This can cause the lever to pop back unexpectedly if you do not have a good grip on it. It cannot bite you, there is no spring. Once the lever is moved all the way forward, this cannot happen.
Keep your fingers, the rest of your hand, and any other body parts out of the way as you cock this gun!
Never let yourself get distracted while cocking this gun. The safety will go on automatically as the gun is cocked. Try to keep your hand forward of the rear sight when cocking. The fiber-optic sight on my gun looks like it could be easily broken if you pushed down on it. The cocking effort on this gun is 28lbs., typical of a lower-powered spring rifle, but with a much shorter lever.
The metal "hammer" on this gun serves as the latch for the cocking lever. You pull the hammer back with your thumb to open the gun. When the cocking lever fits back down, this hammer will fall back into the dropped position. It serves no function other than a latch.
Things I liked:These pellets are well worth the price. They make a difference in guns that are sensitive to pellet types.
I noticed a marked improvement with my Beeman P17.
The pellets have a smooth,uniform finish and are very consistent in shape. No deformed skirts. Things I would have changed:The pellets are fine, but the tin needs to have a screw-on lid. The tins come with a wrap of tape that doesn't look like it would stand up to repeated use. I substituted a length of vinyl tape that can be reused many times. Why do the cheap pellets come in tins with screw-on lids, and the more expensive ones don't? What others should know:The PA 4 for 3 deal is hard to beat. I buy pellets a tin at a time locally just to try them, then order a bunch from PA. The 4 for 3 deal makes the pellets cheaper on a per-unit basis, even after paying shipping. PA does a good job shipping these on a timely basis without damage.