Elite Force HK416 CQB AEG, but this guide is good for pretty much any standard M4 AEG that uses a buffer tube.
I left off my MOSFET Custom Installation Guide - Part I once I had pretty much covered the process of rewiring for the motor & grip. So now, we will take more of a look at the back-end of the gun, which is where things really get fun.
Check out Part II after the jump...
You can see here that I've taken the grip off again and seated the gearbox back inside the lower receiver. Luckily, as you can see, there is a wire channel already pre-molded into the bottom of the post that the buffer tube is secured with. It was actually a perfect fit, just large enough for me to channel all four wires in without having to modify it's structure for a better fit.
This is an area that I really just leave to trusting the experts on, but it's a technique recommended by Terry Fritz, who is the electrical genius behind the Extreme Fire MOSFET units that I use in my guns. He sent me various links to actual scientific websites, discussing why this is important. I read about four words, which were multi-syllabic and cryptic to me, so I just decided to take his word for it. I'd do the same twisting technique on the larger wires, but I just don't have the space required in this gun for that because of this darn buffer tube.
The ends of each wire needs to be stripped, and I advise only stripping off the wire jacket so that there is enough of the bare wire to be inserted all the way into its screw clamp hole on the MOSFET, but the jacket terminates as close to the outside of the opening as possible. It doesn't have to be super precise or exact, just close enough to prevent bare wires or stray bare wire strands from touching each other once everything else is attached and a battery is plugged in. This is a surefire way to short your system and possibly damage your entire system, including your volatile Li-Po battery, which, as most know, is a one-way ticket to Fire Danger Town.
Here, you can see that I've installed the black wire coming from the motor. If you click on the image to open it in a larger view, you'll sort of be able to see what I was talking about with stripping off only enough of the wire jacket to insert the bare wire into the terminal all the way, minimizing the amount of exposed wire that is outside of that terminal, opening up the potential for a short circuit.
I didn't really cover this step, but you can see that I also attached the red & black wires that go to the battery. Installation is pretty self-explanatory since Extreme Fire has included a guide for us on which wire to insert where.
Of course, I'm actually going to get a bit more complicated with the battery end of the wiring at a later point in this guide to show you a sweet trick to enhance your gaming experience, but for now, we'll keep it as is.
The trickiest part of this installation process, aside from cleanly installing those over-sized wires into those tiny terminals, is figuring out how to get the buffer tube bolted back on to the back of the receiver. Inside the buffer tube, at the base, is a bolt with a sort of washer piece that has a small chunk missing from it. It is this washer that prompted me to decide on cutting out a piece of my buffer tube.
Without being able to move the MOSFET out of the way, there was no way I was going to be able to get that washer past it while both pieces were inside of the buffer tube. There just wasn't enough room.
So, as you can see below, with that window in the buffer tube there, you can know move the MOSFET out of the way enough to get that washer & bolt past it and then screw them in once. After having actually executed this effectively, I can say that I'll probably cut just a tad bit more out of the short side of the buffer tube to allow the MOSFET to be moved out of the way a bit easier. I was running the risk of accidentally pulling out some of the wires I had just spent considerable time installing and wouldn't not have been a happy camper.
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