Today, how about we discuss a few items that you're eventually going to need once you've reached the stage of full-blown Airsoft addict. 

Airsoft Guns, UTG, Under the Gun,UTG Airsoft Deluxe Tactical Vest, Army Digital Camo Tac Vest, Tactical Vest, Tac Vest, Load-bearing Vest, Load bearing vest, LBE, Airsoft Gear, Airsoft Loadout,AEG, GBB, ACU, UTG Leapers,pyramyd air, airsoft obsessed Tactical Load-Bearing Vest or Chest Rig. Not required to play right off the bat, but as you add more and more stuff to your collection of Airsoft stuff, you'll need the vest to help you store that stuff. Stuff like extra mags, two-way radio (aka "Comms"), maybe a stash of extra BBs or even some tactical snacks while you're out in the field. Perhaps one of the most important items you'll need to have readily available on your person during a game is easy access to water for staying hydrated and/or preventing dehydration. Getting dehyrdated during a game is not only lame, but downright dangerous. Not to mention extremely selfish. People have actually died on Airsoft fields from dehydration (i think). And that puts a damper on everyone's day, which in effect, makes it a selfish act to literally die on the Airsoft field from not taking the proper precautions and maintaining your body to allow it to function like a champ on game day. Don't be that guy.

Red Dead Rag:  While certainly helpful and advisable to newer players, these "dead man walking" identification tools are not entirely necessary if you simply call your hit (as soon as YOU get shot, NOT when you shoot someone else), and then raise your hand and/or gun up in the air to signal your opponent(s) that you have been hit and are walking out.  I've found that waiving my hand and pointing my gun up in the air is much more effective at signaling to the OPFOR that I'm no longer in the game than simply walking out with the red rag on my head.  Sometimes I've been shot while walking out because my red rag wasn't visible to the shooter for one reason or the other.  Other times, I've placed the red rag loosely on my head without securing to my goggles or keeping a hand on it, and the stupid thing flew off my head unbeknownst to me, resulting in the receipt of additional shots to the body because it looked like I was still in the game even though I wasn't taking on an aggressive tactical stance or anything of that business.  So again, I wouldn't say their necessary to play, although some fields may require them so check that out before showing up to play for the first time, however, red rags can be effective and useful when used properly in conjunction with walking off the field with your gun pointed up in the air or something else to signal others that you've been hit. 

Airsoft Guns, Echo1 USA, AK47, AK74, RPK, Dragunov,Metal 600 Round AK Magazine,Airsoft AEG, extra magazine, spare magazine, AK Mag, hicap mag,AEG, AK, Echo1,pyramyd air, airsoft obsessed
Extra Magazines. You can get away without extra mags if you have a high-cap mag that came with your rifle, and there's always a decent chance someone at the field will have a spare or two that you could borrow, but at some point, you're going to need at least one extra mag of your own. I don't recommend being a charity case every time you go out the field, unless of course, you're just down on your luck. It's cool. I've been there, too, my friends.

Boots. Not an ABSOLUTE necessity, but if you're running around a field where it's basically just raw land or has a lot of treacherous and uneven footing, the next few weeks of your life could be ruined by a severely rolled and/or broken ankle. Here again, I roll exclusively with the 5.11 boots. They're made for real world operators, who depend on them to be legit in order to slap evil upside the head on a daily basis. So naturally, they're going to be a great option for Airsoft as well. They offer a full line of different boots that serve different functions. I wear the very water-resistant 8" Taclite side-zip boots in black when conditions are wet, and when I don't anticipate any real moisture put out by Mother Nature, I roll the ultra-sexy suede XPRT boots in Flat Dark Earth (tan). Phenomenal ankle support and extremely comfortable (once you break them in, just like any type of footwear).

There you have it.

Thursday, May 2, 2013

Grease it up

Using the correct grease inside your Airsoft AEG's gearbox is an often overlooked part of properly tuning your rifle.  So, in a rare demonstration of my capability to actually be brief, I'll provide you with some very important information on proper lubrication for your mechbox in just a few words.

I.  Lubricating the inside of your AEG's cylinder and the piston head o-ring seal:

Use Silicone Oil.
Airsoft Guns, CrosmanSilicone Chamber OilAirsoft AEG lubrication, airsoft grease, Airsoft oil pyramyd air
It's the same stuff you use in your GBB Pistols to preserve the many seals associated with that type of gun.

Silicone oil is better for situations where there are rubber seals involved, since it doesn't deteriorate the rubber like the types of grease that are recommended for use on gears. 

II.  Lubricating your AEG's gear set:

There are a number of effective greases, but I've only tried a few.  I started with a basic White Lithium grease that you can find at your local hardware or auto parts store.  It worked well enough, but then I started reading more about PTFE/Teflon and decided to try a White Lithium grease with PTFE.  The grease I got is made by a company called Fuchs.  It just made too much sense to go with the PTFE, given its highly effective lubrication characteristics, especially in my high-torque setups where there is a substantial load being placed on the gears. 

Do not use the same grease on the cylinder/piston head seal that you use on your gears. As I've said many times before, they are two different systems that require two different types of grease.

There.  That wasn't so bad, was it?

Wednesday, May 1, 2013

Juice it up

Today, I join you during your day to talk about juicing.  Not like Barry Bonds' *alleged* juicing, but juicing of your AEG.  Powering that pea-shooter through the use of a Airsoft battery pack.

If you're savvy enough with a search engine, you'll find that there are many different types of Airsoft batteries available for the AEG.  They come in different shapes and sizes, volts and milliamp hour (mAh) ratings.  What you may or may not know is that those voltages and mAh ratings are important to pay attention to, as they affect the performance of your gun.

First and foremost, I would like to clear one very common Noob Myth about upgrading to larger batteries:  THEY WILL NOT INCREASE YOUR FPS.  So don't think that if you're currently running a small 8.4V battery and you bump up to a big ol' 12V battery that you're going to see an increase in the velocity of your rifle.

I. Voltage - More voltage equals faster trigger response and a higher rate of fire (ROF) when using full-auto.  Higher voltage is also needed in high-torque setups like DM rifles in order to give the motor enough power to pull back the heavy spring. 

II.  mAh - this stands for "milliamp hour" NOT the commonly-used phrase, "milliamps PER hour."  mAh is a rating used to indicate the storage capacity of the battery. Basically, how long it will last on a full charge before the battery's voltage drops below a certain level, deeming it useless unless recharged. 

III.  Deans vs. Tamiya

Get Deans connectors.  Tamiyas are generally regarded to be lame.  They are difficult to connect and disconnect and are said by those that would know to have a higher level of resistance than the Deans.  Another plus side to the Deans is that you are pretty much guaranteed a positive connection all the time, whereas with Tamiya connectors, even though the male and female might be physically connected, the metal pins inside the plastic cases may not actually be touching which will not allow the gun to fire.  Most veteran players use Deans on their guns, which means that if you are using Tamiyas and forget your battery at home, you may have a hard time finding anyone with a battery to lend you that uses Tamiyas.  Of course, if you just love your Tamiyas, you can always just make a Deans to Tamiya adapter cable to keep with you on the field in case you need to borrow a battery and the only ones available use Deans.  Boom.  Threat neutralized. 

IV. NiMH vs. Li-Po (C-rating) vs. NiCD vs. LiFePo4

NiMH = Nickel Metal Hydride. 
This is perhaps the most common battery type seen on the market.  They are very safe, very reliable batteries.  For AEGs, they come in voltages of 8.4, 9.6, 10.8, and 12.  Notice that the voltages get larger by 1.2?  That's because each time you go up a level in voltage, you're adding another battery cell to the pack.  Each individual battery cell in the pack carries a voltage of 1.2.  To get the total pack voltage, you simply add the number of cells and multiply by 1.2 volts.  Voila.  You have your pack's voltage. Crazy stuff.  The downside to these batteries is their large size.  The more volts and/or the more mAh you want, the larger your battery will have to be. 

Li-Po = Lithium Polymer.
This battery was somewhat controversial when it emerged onto the Airsoft scene. There was a lot of skepticism and rumors floating around about how dangerous they are.  Videos on YouTube started popping up of science nerds performing experiments that would cause these batteries to explode, or at least catch on fire.  This caused an Airsoft hysteria and many decided to avoid these wonderful batteries like the plague.  I would like to use an analogy now.

I equate Li-Po batteries to be the Pit Bulls of the Airsoft battery world in that they are very powerful, very compact and if you treat them poorly, they'll ruin your day and possibly that of others.  However, if you treat them well, you will enjoy a long and happy relationship with each other. 

Li-Po batteries for Airsoft AEGs come in voltages of 7.4, 11.1 (which is most common) and for extreme setups, 14.8.  Like NiMH batteries, increasing voltage means increasing the number of battery cells in the pack.  A single Lithium Polymer cell contains 3.7 volts.

Li-Po batteries have the advantage over NiMH batteries in that they utilize a higher voltage in a relatively small package.  The small package of the Li-Po comes in handy when you're limited on the space in which your AEG allows you to store batteries.  Often times, using a Li-Po battery will eliminate the need to use an external battery bag or mock PEQ box to store the battery outside of the gun in order to use a battery with a high enough voltage for your needs.   

NiCD = Nickel Cadmium.
No.  Do not pass go.  Do not collect $200.  These batteries are stupid.  They suffer from a memory effect that requires you to fully discharge the battery before recharging it, otherwise you will never get a full charge again.  The amount of energy the battery can store per charge will be reduced and you will have to charge your battery more often from there on out.  If you're thinking about getting this type, don't.  Just get an NiMH-type battery and call it a day.  The NiMH batteries are basically the new-and-improved version of the NiCD batteries.   

LiFePo4 = Lithium Iron Phosphate.
The new kid on the Airsoft block.  MadBull came out with a couple options using this type of battery.  They did not invent the Lithium Iron Phosphate battery, they just branded one.  In a nutshell, the main selling point(s) to this battery is/are that it has the safety of a NiMH but the high voltage level and small size of a Li-Po.  Essentially, combining the best features of the two prior batteries into one.  These battery packs come in voltages of 9.6 and 12.8. 

V. Chargers:

Do NOT use the same charger you use to charge your NiMH batteries to charge your Li-Po or LiFePo4  batteries, if you use multiple types.  Each type requires its own special charger.  Look in the product description of the charger you're giving consideration to purchase.  It will say what type of batteries it will charge.  In the case of the Li-Po or LiFePo4 battery charger, you'll need a balancer, not just a charger.  You can either get them separately or just do what I did and got a Li-Po charger that has a balancer built in.  Balancers help to ensure that each cell in the battery pack receives an equal (or very close to) amount of energy during the recharging process.  Not balancing your cells can result in ruining your day.  Remember that Pit Bull analogy?

Additional note on charging your batteries: there are a number of chargers out there for multiple battery-types that offer adjustable rates of recharging.  It can be argued that the slower the recharge rate, the better charge your battery will receive.  The rate of recharge is classified in Amps (usually 1,2 or 4A).  Basically take your battery's mAh rating (we'll say 2200 mAh in this example) and divide by 1,000.  2,200/1,000 = 2.2.  2.2 is the most amount of Amps your battery should be recharged at.  So obviously recharging at 4A is a no-no.  Personally, I wouldn't even charge it at the 2A level either.  Again, to err on the safe side, I just leave my charger on the slowest rate and let it sit while I do other things within the general area where I charge at.  It's best to keep an eye on your battery while it recharges just in case Murphy's Law comes into play and whatever could go wrong, DOES, in fact, go wrong.

Invest in a quality battery charger, regardless of your battery type.  Think about the longevity of your battery here.  When I first started playing several years ago, I used the cheapy charger that came with the battery I purchased.  It was just one of those chargers that plugs one end into the wall socket and the other straight into the battery.  No real "smart-charging" going on.  Long story short, my battery was ruined within a few charges and required me to spend more money on a new battery AND a new charger.  Learn from my mistake.  You're welcome.