I'm sure my buddies over at Elite Force are going to cringe when they read this, but let's face it: not everyone out there is going to send their gun in under warranty to get it fixed, should an issue arise. Some people just prefer to do the work themselves for whatever reason. So here's a blog for those of us who like to void our Airsoft warranties. No seriously, I'm pretty sure if you take your Elite Force M4A1 Carbine apart, as I am about to show you, you can kiss that sweet Umarex 1-year warranty goodbye. Just a fair warning before you do anything you might regret later.

Check out the full Airsoft AEG takedown tutorial after the jump...


Good day to you, sir or madam, (but likely "sir").  I've got a quick custom Airsoft AEG upgrade tip for tuning your beloved rifle.  Wanna know what it is?  No.  Well you're offensive.  And rude.  So double offensive.  For those of you who do want to know, just keep reading.

I'll be honest.  This is one of those custom AEG upgrades that just makes sense to me, although I am not sure if I could produce a reliable test to say for sure.  But the whole concept is based on friction and how I don't feel it should have a place inside my gearbox, specifically, in this case, between my AEG's gearbox and the AEG Piston contained therein.    

Friction on the piston can reduce, even if only ever-so-slightly, your rifle's velocity output, measured in feet-per-second (FPS).  Friction can also create other issues, damages and mishaps inside the gearbox that make me angry.  BTW, you wouldn't like me when I'm angry.  Heck, I don't even like me when I'm angry.  So in order to avoid that anger, I've gone ahead and taken an extra step in attempting to reduce this friction I speak of.  

In case you didn't catch the title of this blog, today I'll be illustrating how to modify your Airsoft M4 buffer tube to allow you to install a MOSFET in your Airsoft M4. This tutorial is for M4 operators whose gun is wired to the back through the buffer tube, rather than wired to the front handguard like the other half of the Airsoft M4s out there.

The problem is that with the heavy gauged, silver-plated Mil-Spec wiring that I use, I have to sacrifice flexibility for improved electrical conductivity, which I'm fine with. So, it doesn't really make it feasible to just install the MOSFET and then just shove it into the buffer tube so that you can get the stock back on because the wire is not very flexible and I don't want to jeopardize having one or more of the wires come loose from the MOSFET.  They are a huge PITA to deal with since they are just slightly too large for the screw clamp connectors that this MOSFET uses and if not connected properly, they will easily come loose which is an obviously less-than-optimal situation. After a bit of brainstorming, I came to the conclusion that if I just carved out a piece of that buffer tube so that I could connect it or disconnect it while it was still technically inside the tube, I would essentially have solved the problem at hand.

The first step was to trace the exterior of the MOSFET on the buffer tube so that I would know how much material I would need to remove from the buffer tube.

Here, you can see the result.  Enough to access the MOSFET but not enough to jeopardize the structural integrity of the buffer tube and/or render it otherwise unusable with a stock mounted on it. 
Below, you can see some of the tools I used to make this thing happen.  Number one, please note the safety gear I have pictured on the right.  Yes, I know those are ESS Profile Turbofan goggles and are not your typical power tool eye pro, but think about it.  They're ANSI-rated to take a shotgun blast at close range.  Why wouldn't they make for good power-tool eye pro as well?  Riddle me that, my dear trolls. 

You can see well enough in the photo above and to the left that I've got the Dremel setup at an angle, which I later adjusted to just being vertical (straight up/down) after to took the photo, plus I've got the buffer tube secured in a vise.  You really don't want that thing flying out of your hands or getting squirrelly on you while you're dealing with a cutting device circulating at 15,000+ RPMs. 


Then I cut that biyatch. 

Here is the result.  Boom.
Nice and neat.  I can still access all the screw clamps to connect or disconnect the wires from the MOSFET and I'll still be able to put my stock back on and collapse it down to at least the 2nd to last position.  If you'd like to be able to collapse it all the way down for whatever reason, then I would recommend cutting a bit further into the tube (to the left, in the photo above) to allow yourself a bit more room on the right side of the MOSFET (in the photo above) because you need to take the wires on that side and how much room they'll take up into consideration.  While I don't have it pictured there, I am just going to keep the wires that connect to the battery on the right side there super short.  Like, basically, I would terminate them right about where the right edge of that photo starts and the wires go out of frame. That should be plenty, assuming you've got a little bit of length in the wire on your battery as well so that you can keep that battery in a crane stock tube, if you have one, or however else you store your battery while connected to your gun (e.g. battery pouch, electrical tape, etc.)
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-
This is the second installment in my series on how to build a workbench for your airsoft custom gun upgrades.  Part I addressed the basics of tools needed and how to frame the tabletops.

Today, we'll be covering the attachment of the workbench legs, as well as my method for attaching the two 4'x8' framed tabletops together to form an "L" shaped surface area. 

X marks the spot in which I drill one of three holes along the 4' side of tabletop #1.  I will actually drill all the way through the 8' foot side of tabletop #2 as well so that I can insert a 5/8" diameter lag bolt to secure the two tabletops together.
See?  That's a 5/8" drill bit designed to bore holes in stuff. 
I used a standard drill and there you can see what the lag bolt with nut and washer look like. 
I actually had to drill through from the other side I had initially planned on going through first, so I missed my mark by a smidge, but luckily this procedure did not require precision craftsmanship. 
I'm sure the pros would tell you that you need a washer on this side of the wood, but I failed to buy enough washers when I was at the hardware store and after close examination, the head of that bolt has a circumference that is sufficiently larger than the circumference of the hole I just drilled in the wood, so chances are, since this table is stationary, I probably won't run into an issue with this. 
Below, I also bought the wrong length lag bolts, so I ended up cutting three spacers out of excess 2x4s that I've now accumulated from this project to use up the extra length of the lag bolt.  I attached each of the three new 2x4 spacers to the inside of the 8' side of tabletop #2.  This proved to be a relatively perfect solution to an otherwise annoying issue. 

I did have one washer left from the small batch I purchased, so this is probably closer to the textbook way to doing this. 
Pardon my shallow depth of field, but you can kind of make out the other two lag bolts that are helping to secure the two frames.

Attaching the Legs:

First I had to do some measuring while sitting in my chair to determine how tall I want this space.  I opted to go for a height in between the level at which most people would find comfortable while sitting, and the level at which most people might care to stand at the workbench.  Perfect for me because I can comfortably sit at this desk, but can also stand at it without having to bend very far over to deal with parts & tools.

Anyway, so I took my 4"x4" sticks and cut them up (after measuring, of course) and attached them to the framed tabletops.  In the photo below, you can see one of the corners where I have screws going all over the place.  The two screws on the very left are helping to secure the short side of the frame.  The two srews that are on the right are what's securing the leg to the inside of the table frame.  There are two more screws going into this leg, just like the side we're currently looking at.                                                                                                              
I also put one screw  down into the top of the 4x4 post where you see that super sweet black oval looking thing. 


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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
Tom Harris for the Pyramyd Airsoft Blog
Sup Airsoft Playas?  Today I'ma show y'all how to build a workbench for working on your Airsoft guns out in your Man Cave.  Oh, you don't have a Man Cave?  Well, you best get one right quick.  They are crucial for your sanity when you share your house with other humans.

Tools needed for this project:
Wood
Wood Screws, or Drywall Screws
Tools
Brain
Apple Rings Candy
Vitamin Water XXX flavor

Just kidding, I'll get more specific.

But before I do that I would like to point out that this was essentially my first official woodworking project in my entire life that I physically built completely on my own.  I had to seek the professional guidance of three different individuals during the planning phase, otherwise this project would have probably never gotten off the ground, and even if did, it would have likely gone to Hell in a handbasket.  So a special thanks goes out to my wonderful father, my good friend, Airsoft teammate & expert "woodworkerist," Ben Holley, of Lighting Resources in Clovis, CA, and lastly, to my mother-in-law, who is actually quite experienced in these types of personal home projects, plus she's a Marine (honorably discharged) so watch your mouth. 

Soooo...since I'm not an expert here, you're going to see some "discrepancies" in my methods and execution and consequently desire to troll me for it, but unless you'd like to offer constructive criticism on ways to do this better, I probably won't be approving your comments for posting.  Just sayin'. 

For this project, I used:

- Two (2) 4'x8' sheets of big-ass plywood for my table top surfaces.  I used two of those beasts because I wanted a workbench made for a beast.  Yup.   

64 SQUARE FEET OF WORKSPACE for bossin' it hard.

However, this tutorial will also apply to more reasonably sized workbenches as well.

- 8 foot 2"x4" sticks, quantity of about 16 or so.  Probably more than I needed.  This stuff was used to frame the table tops and to provide bracing for the legs. 

- 8 foot 4"x4" sticks, quantity of three.  For the table legs.

- Three 6" long, 5/8" diameter lag bolts to attach my two table tops together to form a big "L" shape.  Don't forget the corresponding washers and nuts to go with these guys.

- Box of 3" drywall screws (aka wood screws)
- Box of 2" drywall screws

- Tape measure

- Pencil for marking measurements

- I had to use a hand-held circular SAW to cut the 2x4s & 4x4s because it was all I had at the time, but a Mitre saw would be a much better choice.  That circular saw made it tough to make clean cuts on the wood without making clean cuts in my flesh.  Exercise caution when using saws.  I hear they can cut through bone.

- Black & Decker FireStorm cordless power drill - This thing is a torque-boss.  I didn't have any other option for a drill either and was skeptical whether or not it would have enough balls to drive those 3" screws all the way into the wood, but the FireStorm pwned those screws.  Pwned 'em hard.

- 3M Peltor Hearing protection for working with the circular saw.  That thing gets really loud and even louder when you start cutting the wood.

- Apple Rings chewy candy.  Cuz it was right by the checkout stand at the hardware store.  (See photo up top)

- Vitamin Water XXX Flavor.  Also right by the checkout stand.  Also delicious.

First step that I took.  Framing the big table top.  Framing, I learned is pretty handy for creating a super sturdy, super beast, Airsoft workbench.  It will allow you to place a lot of weight on that table and not have to lose any sleep over the table breaking.  So start with your blank sheet of plywood.
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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I chose to add the long-side rails first since both the plywood and the 2x4s were already cut in 8-foot lengths.  So I just attached them with the 2-inch screws from the top of the table.  I spread the screws out about 8" apart from each other going down the line.

Pictured below is a view of the bottom side of the table, with the two 8' 2x4s mounted. Some of you might notice that I didn't place the top 2x4 flush with the edge of the plywood.
How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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That's because I wanted to add a reinforced lip to the front of the tabletop so that I could attach things like vices & stuff that need to be able to clamp down on the side of the table.  Some of the stuff I have doesn't open more than 4 inches, so I couldn't just use the framed edge.  So to reinforce the lip, I just added a third 2x4 in the 8-foot length and just laid it flat, using the 2" wood screws again, spaced 8" apart, driven through the top of the table (the side opposite to the one visible in the photo below).
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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Here's a shot from different POV so that you can see that I also attached the frame to the lip reinforcement to help keep that lip solid.  Whether or not this was necessary is unknown to me because I'm not a master woodsmith.  But at the time it made sense and I was having fun driving those screws in with my cordless power drill, so I said,  "What the hell? Why not?"
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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Not the greatest shot, but if you look closely, you can see the two screws (black dots) where I attached the inner frame bars to the side rails.
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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Here's what the frame looks like without the plywood tabletop attached.  I spaced the short 2x4s about 13 inches apart, measuring from the center of each piece.  
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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Here it is finished, standing on its side.  8 feet, my friends.  My camera lens wasn't actually wide enough to get the whole thing in frame, but you get the idea.   
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How to Build a Workbench for Your Airsoft Man Cave
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So obviously, while the tabletop is finished, it's only one of the two that I made and it also needs the legs and bracing.  But we'll get to that next week.

If you'd like to build your own workbench for working on your Airsoft guns, but you don't have a big enough room for 64 square feet of workbench space, fret not.  This model can be scaled down, if you didn't already come to that realization.  Total cost for all the wood & materials was mind-blowingly cheaper than I expect.  I think the total for everything only came out to roughly about $70.  Those 2x4s are only like 2 bucks a piece and the plywood might have only been about $15 or so.  So pretty reasonable for a massive setup like this.  So stay tuned for the next installment. 
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Today I'm going to show you how to upgrade your Airsoft AEG for quite possibly only a fraction of a cent (one penny). Two words:

Teflon Tape


Also known as Polytetrafluoroethylene, or PTFE, Teflon Tape ain't just for plumbers. It's great for anyone who loves air-sealing stuff and/or materials with a low coefficient of friction.  For the purposes of this little Airsoft upgrade mod, it's nice to work with something having both of those characteristics.  A roll of Teflon or PTFE tape or "Thread-Seal Tape" will run you between $1 - $2 at your local hardware store.  This mod only require a very small percentage of that entire roll, hence my assertion that this may only cost you a fraction of a penny.  I could be underestimating by a cent or two, but my point is, IT'S FREAKIN' CHEAP!!!

Special note, the beauty of this Airsoft upgrade mod is that it doesn't matter what type of Airsoft AEG that you are wanting to work on.  This trick will work for most of the AEGs you're going to find at a MilSim-type game.  Technically, although usually a different configuration, this will similarly on many gas blowback guns (rifles and pistols) out there as well.  

So let's get right to it.  First, you'll need to disassemble your Airsoft AEG to the point that you have your tight-bore inner barrel and rubber hop-up bucking separated from the rest of the gun.  There is no reason I can think of that you would need to open up your gearbox for this particular mod, so if you've gone that far, STOP.  The inner barrel and hop-up assembly is located inside the upper receiver and handguard for the average AEG like the M4/M16 models, as well as the AK47s.  This should cover most everyone.

Once you have the inner barrel and hop-up bucking by themselves, (IMPORTANT) you'll want to verify that your hop-up bucking is seated properly over the the inner barrel so that the ridge inside the hop-up window on the barrel looks to be perpendicular with the vertical axis.  Below is an example of what I'm referring to.  Ignore the A&K M60VN Hop-up Assembly, just look inside the barrel at how the hop-up bucking is situated.  The inside of your inner barrel should look like this when the hop-up bucking is no matter what hop-up assembly you have. 
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  You don't need to have the hop-up assembled to press down on the bucking.  You can just use your finger, or what I do is use the shaft of a screw driver.

The importance of that little maneuver is almost unfathomable.  Without your hop-up bucking being seated in the most up-right positions, your Airsoft gun will not be as accurate as it could (all other things being perfect).  

Anyway, once you've established that your hop-up bucking seated properly.  Carefully wrap your Teflon Tape around the point where your inner barrel meets the end of the bucking.  Three to four circumnavigations is all you'll need.  Anymore than that and you're going increase the already difficult process of getting the hop-up assembly back over the bucking without pulling the bucking off axis. 
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 You'll want to wrap it firmly, but I said "carefully wrap" because when you first start the wrap, if you're NOT careful, you can disorient the bucking and you'll have to reset it.

Once you've got the bucking wrapped, you're ready to slide that hop-up unit back on.  I personally add one or two droplets to the outside of the bucking to make this process quite a bit easier.  I've seen that some assemblies just slide right on, while others are extremely snug even with a bit of lubrication. 
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Here again, you'll need to exercise patience and care in sliding that hop-up unit back on as you may mess up the alignment of the bucking.  Once you get your hop-up unit back on and reassembled, you are probably OK to put the gun back together and get the Airsoft party started. 

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However, in the same exact manner that we wrapped the rubber bucking, I like to wrap the hop-up assembly three or four times as well.  This does a couple things:

1) Helps to keep the inner barrel from sliding around too much inside the bucking and hop-up assembly, especially if you've got a hop-up unit that slides over the bucking fairly easily.

2) Adds a 2nd line of defense against any possible air leaks out of that end of the hop-up.  Some of my engineering buddies tell me that this is sort of pointless for this purpose, but what the hell do engineers know about anything?  Plus, I'm a creature of habit and I'm used to doing it this way.  It makes me feel better.


3) In some of the M4/M16 AEGs that I've dealt with, it actually helps seat the assembly more snugly inside the outer barrel and enhances the seal between the Air Nozzle's entrance into the assembly and the gearbox, which is another potential point of leakage inherent in most AEGs.

In fairness, there are more ways to skin this metaphorical cat (don't actually skin your cat or anyone else's).  This is just my preferred method, which has netted some very consistent results on the chronograph.  

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Allen Wrench Tool Set - How to Upgrade Your Airsoft Guns - Tominator's Tech Tool Tips
Tom Harris for the Pyramyd Airsoft Blog
Today's post on the Pyramyd Airsoft Blog is gonna keep it real.  Real simple, that is.  There are many Airsoft players out there who not only love to play, but love to upgrade the performance of their beloved Airsoft Guns, which requires certain tools in order to do so.  So today I thought I would highlight one particularly important set of tools that you really can't do without if you want to handle your own Airsoft upgrades.  That set would be the Allen wrenches you see above.  Some people call them "hex tools"or "hex keys" as well.  Whether or not that is correct is beyond me, but it does make sense because these Allen wrenches have six sides, hence the name hex being relevant.

I don't know who this Allen guy was, but he sure invented a handy tool.  I highly recommend a set like you see above, where there are different sizes.  I hate to sound like a treasonous traitor, but I also recommend you get the Metric (SI) sizes, which come in millimeters (mm) rather the U.S. Imperial sizes, which come in fractions of an inch.  Most Airsoft guns that I've worked on have been more compatible with the metric-sized allen keys.  

I feel the need to specify that these allen keys will not only be compatible with your Airsoft AEGs,
but also your spring-powered Airsoft Sniper Rifles, CO2 & Green Gas Blowback Airsoft Rifles & SMGs, Gas Blowback Pistols as well.  So yes, they ooze versatility and they're very inexpensive for a nice little set.  You can get them at pretty much any local hardware store. 
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GAMEFACE CLASSIC ARMY AK47 INTERNALS ASSESSMENT

Gameface Classic Army AK-47 Photo: Bakholdin Photography. 
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Gameface Classic Army AK-47 Photo: Bakholdin Photography. 
Tom Harris for the Pyramyd Airsoft Blog
Some of you may recall my little synopsis on the Gameface Classic Army AK-47 AEG a little itty bit ago, where I said some nice things about it in general, so I thought I'd follow up with a little write-up about the internals I found therein.










Check out the good, the bad & the ugly after the jump...

Today's Airsoft Question comes from Sean Carter from Brooklyn, NY.

Sean writes:

"Wassup?  Just wondering what you do to prep your Airsoft AEG piston for installation inside the gearbox?"

Wassup, Sean.  This is a great question for me right now because I just happened to have stripped a piston in one of AEGs a couple weeks ago and I've been meaning to replace it anyway.

Check out my Airsoft answer plus the death & destruction that went on in my AEG gearbox after the jump...

SCOPE MOUNT ALIGNMENT FOR ACCURIZING YOUR
AIRSOFT M14 DMR
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Hey all y'all Airsoft M14 Designated Marksman Rifle (DMR) owners.  Betcha didn't expect me to say, "y'all" did ya?  Well I'm glad I could catch you off guard.  Today's "Airsoft blog speak" is in regards to performing a procedure that will not only increase the chances of hitting a target with your Airsoft designated marksman rifle, but it also increases the chances of being able to see what you're aiming at through your scope.  Turns out, that last part is pretty important, not just for accuracy, but for safety.  Some people might think safety is lame.  Those are usually the people who end up on the "Darwin Awards."  I suggest you not be one of those award recipients.  Safety is actually pretty legit.  But let's focus more on the accuracy aspect here, because that's not only legit, but more exciting.

So it's one thing to be able to "sight in" or "zero in" your scope using the windage and elevation dials that most optics come with these days.  However, you're only able to adjust either of those things to a very small degree.  They are definitely what I would consider to be a fine-tuning adjustment. If your scope mount is so far off that you can't even see the flight path of your BBs through your glass, no amount of fine-tuning will do you any good.  You won't be getting those crosshairs or reticle on target anytime soon.  As far as appearances go, you might have the absolute SEXIEST, most intimidating Airsoft gun on the field, striking fear in the hearts of even the most experienced dudes out there, but when it comes down to game time and you have target acquired at 80 yards, YOU SIR or MADAME (As Jay-Z once said, "Ladies is pimps, too"), are essentially, combat ineffective without that scope mount lined up and optic reticle zeroed in.  Do not brush yo' shoulders off.  Do not pass go.  Do not collect a "mirrion dorrars," etc.

How copy?

Alright.  So, this particular part of dialing in your long-range Airsoft interdiction tool is only relevant to M14s, or other rifles that don't have an integrated rail on top of their receiver, requiring a scope mount base to be installed.
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When installing your M14 scope mount base, simply tightening all the bolts included with the mount does not qualify you as "ready to go."  These things are not true "plug-&-play" items, as I've said. 

So how does one go about effectively aligning the mount accurately enough to allow one to fine-tune, or "zero in," his or her scope, using the windage & elevation dials located on the top and side of the scope itself?

Excellent question, my dearest Airsoft blog reader. 

Here is my quick and dirty method.

DISCLAIMER:  There is more than one way to skin this cat (Figuratively speaking.  Relax, PETA).  The following method is merely the method that I've used and found to be "close enough" for most Airsoft purposes. 

To align your scope mount base using my method, you'll need:

(A) A piece of thin string (the smaller diameter the better), a few inches longer than twice the distance from your Airsoft rifle's rear sight post and front sight post.
(B) An alligator clip, close pin, or tiny clamp of some sort
(C) A Ruler, Digital Calipers with millimeter increments, or the ability to accurately "eyeball" distance & alignment.
(D) The ability to look at my pictures and replicate my not-so-perfect illustrations.

As a reference point for aligning the M14 scope mount base, below, you will see that I took the string (A) and tied it around the front and rear sight posts, and secured the loose ends behind the rear sight with a little alligator clip, keeping the string tight.  I didn't want to tie a knot because the string was so thin, that I didn't want to horse around with trying to undo a tiny knot when I was done.  As you can see below, I didn't just tie the string to each end of the post because, at the time, I thought setting it up like I have below would net me a more accurately aligned setup.  But I suppose in hind sight, you could tie a knot around the front post, and one around the rear sight and still achieve effective results if you took care in making sure your knots didn't interfere with aligning your string properly.

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Airsoft M14 DMR - Scope Mount Out of Alignment
Airsoft Guns, Aligning m14 scope mount, Airsoft upgrades, Airsoft M14 DMR, Airsoft accuracy upgrades,Airsoft AEG, Airsoft scope, airsoft optics, airsoft reticle, airsoft red dot sight,Airsoft Guns, Pyramyd Air, Pyramyd Airsoft Blog, Airsoft Obsessed, Airsoft Blog,
Airsoft M14 DMR - Scope Mount Aligned

So, you should be able to tell that in the "Before" shot on the left, the scope mount base was all out of whack, not in line with my yellow reference string. I then took my digital calipers and measure the distance from the end point on the back of the rail to the reference string, as well as on the front of the rail and adjusted accordingly until I had relatively equal distances, respective to the counterpart, which told me that my scope mount was aligned pretty well and was now ready to have its three bolts tightened to secure the mount in place.  This can be a tricky process because there is potential to move the mount out of place from where you had it, while tightening the bolts.  I simply kept one hand on the mount at all times, and tightening each bolt with my other hand, making sure not to crank on the bolts so much that it moves the mount.

And that's pretty much it, for this portion of the process.  This procedure can be adapted for any number of different M14s, provided they are made well enough and, therefore, allow the user to attach a scope mount base.  The following are M14 options that I either know for certain, or can guess will high probability, have the option of adding a scope mount. This is not an all-inclusive list, so don't freak out if your favorite M14 is not listed. 


WE M14 GBBR
(Have you seen my WE M14 Gas Blowback Rifle Review>?)

WE M14 GBB Review, M14 Gas Blowback Rifle, Designated Marksman Rifle, M14 Scope Mount, Airsoft Optics, Airsoft Guns, Pyramyd Airsoft Blog
Classic Army M14 EBR

Echo1 M14 AEG, M14 DMR, Mounting a scope, Aligning a scope, airsoft optics
Echo1 M14

G&G M14 GR14 AEG, Designated Marksman Rifle, M14 Scope Mount, Sighting in a scope, rifle scope alignment, pyramyd airsoft blog, airsoft obsessed,
G&G GR14

The next step is to attach your scope and zero-it in, which we will get to in due time.  This is multi-faceted, so I'll try and tackle as much of this entire process as I can to give you a complete picture of what is involved in setting up an accurate Airsoft designated marksman rifle.

Lastly, who's going to Operation: Lion Claws X this weekend?  I know there are 500+ other players that signed up.  I'm stoked.  I've been busy getting all my Airsoft guns and gear squared away, along with the goodies the Pyramyd crew & I will be giving away at our booth. 
operation lion claws x, Pyramyd Air booth, airsoft game, airsoft event, M14 DMR, HK416, PWS Diablo,
I'm bringing a plethora of guns, including, but not limited to my M14 DMR, VFC HK416, VFC M4CR, SOCOM Gear PWS Diablo, and, clearly, enough mid cap magazines to dump a lot of BBs on the OPFOR, who in this case, is Alpha Company (tan).  We'll be running on Bravo Company (Woodland). 

If you're going, and you're reading this, and you're not Dave, Mike or Ben, stop by the Pyramyd Air booth, sign up for the Pyramyd Airsoft email updates and be entered to win a $100 gift card from Pyramyd Air.

We're also giving out some pretty serious coupon codes to get you that fatty discount on Airsoft stuff that you've always dreamed of.

So come hang out with me and my boys at the Pyramyd Air booth.  It's cool if you only show up to get free swag. But I will warn you, we know how to have a good time, so you may end up wanting to stay and hang out for fear of missing out on something cool.  Or not.  But now you're curious either way now, aren't you? 

Airsoft.