To be honest, that title is rather tricky, and not just because I'm using the word "best" when only comparing two objects, rather than three or more. Know what I'm sayin'? Where my grammar trolls at?

Before I get into the RIS vs. RAS comparison, let me first specify the components of the two acronyms.

RIS = Rail Interface System
RAS = Rail Adapter System

There are actually quite a few variations of those two out there but after doing a bit of mild research on several major firearms manufacturer sites (e.g. Daniel Defense, Knight's Arm Co, etc), as well as a few other gun-related informational sites, I've determined that those are probably two of the more correct meanings. However, since there doesn't seem to be a standard definition that covers multiple manufactured rails, I'm not sure if there's a wrong answer either.

So what the heck is the difference between RIS and RAS then?

Find out after the jump...

In case you didn't catch the title of this blog, today I'll be illustrating how to modify your Airsoft M4 buffer tube to allow you to install a MOSFET in your Airsoft M4. This tutorial is for M4 operators whose gun is wired to the back through the buffer tube, rather than wired to the front handguard like the other half of the Airsoft M4s out there.

The problem is that with the heavy gauged, silver-plated Mil-Spec wiring that I use, I have to sacrifice flexibility for improved electrical conductivity, which I'm fine with. So, it doesn't really make it feasible to just install the MOSFET and then just shove it into the buffer tube so that you can get the stock back on because the wire is not very flexible and I don't want to jeopardize having one or more of the wires come loose from the MOSFET.  They are a huge PITA to deal with since they are just slightly too large for the screw clamp connectors that this MOSFET uses and if not connected properly, they will easily come loose which is an obviously less-than-optimal situation. After a bit of brainstorming, I came to the conclusion that if I just carved out a piece of that buffer tube so that I could connect it or disconnect it while it was still technically inside the tube, I would essentially have solved the problem at hand.

The first step was to trace the exterior of the MOSFET on the buffer tube so that I would know how much material I would need to remove from the buffer tube.

Here, you can see the result.  Enough to access the MOSFET but not enough to jeopardize the structural integrity of the buffer tube and/or render it otherwise unusable with a stock mounted on it. 
Below, you can see some of the tools I used to make this thing happen.  Number one, please note the safety gear I have pictured on the right.  Yes, I know those are ESS Profile Turbofan goggles and are not your typical power tool eye pro, but think about it.  They're ANSI-rated to take a shotgun blast at close range.  Why wouldn't they make for good power-tool eye pro as well?  Riddle me that, my dear trolls. 

You can see well enough in the photo above and to the left that I've got the Dremel setup at an angle, which I later adjusted to just being vertical (straight up/down) after to took the photo, plus I've got the buffer tube secured in a vise.  You really don't want that thing flying out of your hands or getting squirrelly on you while you're dealing with a cutting device circulating at 15,000+ RPMs. 

Then I cut that biyatch. 

Here is the result.  Boom.
Nice and neat.  I can still access all the screw clamps to connect or disconnect the wires from the MOSFET and I'll still be able to put my stock back on and collapse it down to at least the 2nd to last position.  If you'd like to be able to collapse it all the way down for whatever reason, then I would recommend cutting a bit further into the tube (to the left, in the photo above) to allow yourself a bit more room on the right side of the MOSFET (in the photo above) because you need to take the wires on that side and how much room they'll take up into consideration.  While I don't have it pictured there, I am just going to keep the wires that connect to the battery on the right side there super short.  Like, basically, I would terminate them right about where the right edge of that photo starts and the wires go out of frame. That should be plenty, assuming you've got a little bit of length in the wire on your battery as well so that you can keep that battery in a crane stock tube, if you have one, or however else you store your battery while connected to your gun (e.g. battery pouch, electrical tape, etc.)
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Here we've got a little gallery of the Elite Force K-PDW Airsoft AEG, with VFC being the OEM on it, so you know it's top quality.  Such a solid gun with a compact and unique design, offering you great functionality in both a CQB environment, as well as longer distances, which make it suitable for outdoor use.  Is it going to be a long-range DMR?  No.  But you can definitely engage targets at 50 yards or so and expect positive results. 

The Elite Force K-PDW possesses the following characteristics:
  • Semi/full auto
  • Metal receiver
  • Ambidextrous fire selector switch
  • Full metal gears & gearbox
  • Adjustable Hop-Up
  • Integrated accessory rails
  • Folding stock with QD Sling Mount attachment point
  • 120-Mid Cap Magazine
  • RIS-mounted PEQ box for storing your AEG battery pack
  • Backed by a limited, yet awesome warranty from Umarex USA

Check out all the Elite Force K-PDW photos in more detail after the jump...

Just a tad bit more to add to my coverage of the Spartan Imports booth at Shot Show 2012.  This time, featuring some new Classic Army AEGs, like the Krebs Custom AK47 tactical Airsoft AEG. 

 If you're into AKs, you might appreciate some of the subtle details seen in the photo above.  A plethora of Picatinny rail space (RIS), including a rail sitting directly over the upper receiver.  This is a really nice feature because it eliminates the need for you to have to spend additional cash money on a scope mount rail if you wanted to run an optic on your rifle, which I would highly recommend if you're a serious shooter, or desire to be one someday.  Also included is what's likely to be a high-cap AK magazine AND...if you look closely, you'll notice my beloved Classic Army VLTOR-style crane stock.  I LOVE THIS STOCK.  SUPER FUNCTIONAL AND SUPER GOOD-LOOKING. 

Check out the rest of the guns I "scoped out" at the Spartan Imports booth after the jump...
                                                     (^See what I did there?)

During my visit to the Spartan Imports booth at Shot Show 2012 a few weeks ago, in addition to the new Magpul PTS Airsoft Guns, I happen to catch a couple new, licensed Knight's Armament Co (KAC) items from VFC that looked pretty nice. 
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 Before we get into the new licensed KAC Airsoft guns, let's take a moment of zen to gaze upon the Classic Army M134 Minigun.  I know it's not new, but it's still awesome and deserves respect.  I know I can't be the ONLY minigun fan out there!  WHERE MY MINIGUN DAWGS AT!?!?!
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I think most people are going to be familiar with the Echo1 USA Airsoft Minigun, so for those unfamiliar with the Classic Army version, the primary difference between the two is the propulsion system inside this Airsoft machine gun.  The Echo1 USA version is basically an AEG version while the Classic Army Minigun relies upon high-pressure air (HPA) or CO2.  I believe Classic Army purchased the design from a company called Piper's Precision Products a few years ago, who is well-known in the realm of those who know (what?) for making some super awesome, super high-end HPA-powered Airsoft machine guns and otherwise BB hoses (e.g. the infamous Strafer).

I don't know which of the two Miniguns is the better performing model, but I DO know that it's pretty cool that Airsoft consumers have a choice when shopping for a new Minigun.  Totally normal purchase, right?  haha.  Only if you have $3,000-$4,000.  Both run in that minigun price neighborhood, I believe.

Alright.  Enough Airsoft minigun talk.  More Knight's Armament Talk, or KAC Talk after the jump...

My homies, Cliff & Andy over at Elite Force Airsoft have released a sneak peak at their new M1911 Gas Blowback Pistol.  There have been contentions on the Elite Force Facebook page that this is just another WE rebrand.  Well, sports fans, while I have yet to confirm anything with Elite Force officially, I did receive some reliable intel a few months back that Elite Force was partnering up with a rather unexpected, but legitimate & well-known manufacturer to handle this project.

Check out the new Elite Force 1911 after the jump...