by B.B. Pelletier
A Leapers 3-12x tactical mini-scope fits the CF-X with room to spare. B-Square high mounts give plenty of clearance.
The Gamo CF-X is a popular spring-piston rifle that I “tested” for you by surrogate on Friday, Jan. 6, of this year. I made some assumptions in that report. Now that I’ve tested an actual CF-X in the field, it’s time to see how close I came. I mounted a Leapers 3-12x power compact tactical scope just for the CF-X guy to see how that scope works on the rifle. The scope rode in B-Square non adjustable 30mm rings with a B-Square scope stop placed behind the rear ring.
A first look at the rifle
The CF-X is a fixed-barrel underlever spring gun that uses a rotary breechblock to access the barrel for loading. Because this is a BSA design and because Gamo owns BSA, I assumed that the rotary breech would be similar to the one on the BSA SuperStar I shot years ago. The CF-X is a much smaller rifle with a narrower spring tube. It’s also a bit lighter. In fact, I find the CF-X to be very light for all the power it has. I guessed that cocking would be smooth, and it is. The CF-X is the most refined powerplant Gamo has yet fielded. When it shoots, it’s just as smooth – a fact I got wrong in the earlier report. I had thought there would be some twanginess to it, but the rifle I tested is quite smooth.
The CF-X trigger is classic Gamo. It’s extremely creepy with a long second stage pull. It takes a lot of getting used to. However, these triggers do wear in with time and will become crisper (or able to be adjusted to a crisper pull) after they have some time on them. To their credit, Gamo puts a manual safety on the gun. Once it’s cocked, you’re ready to go.
The rotary breech
I do not care for the rotary breech, but if it’s necessary, I’ll live with it. Round-nosed pellets tend to flip around backwards on the loading ramp, which takes time to sort out. I soon learned to load this rifle horizontally instead of resting the butt on my leg (like I usually do) because many pellets fell back out of the breech. The loading ramp on the CF-X is also not as smooth as the one on the BSA I tested, so this gun REALLY flips pellets if you’re not careful!
The breechblock rotates to the left, revealing a groove that guides the pellet to the barrel.
All guns will vary; this is what I got with mine. RWS Hobby (7 grains) averaged 942 f.p.s. Crosman Premier light (7.9 grains) averaged 873 f.p.s. Beeman Kodiak (10.6 grains) averaged 785 f.p.s. The new Gamo Raptor (5 grains) averaged 1153 f.p.s. I notice that my velocities are only a few f.p.s. different than those of reader JB, which is encouraging.
I learned that the CF-X does not like heavy pellets! It threw Beeman Kodiaks and Crosman Premiers 10.5-grain pellets all over the place at the 33 yards I had the target placed. Group sizes of 2.5″ to 3.5″ were common at that range, which is way below acceptable accuracy for a gun in this price range. Then, I tried Crosman Premier lights – the pellet of choice for many spring gun competitors in field target. The groups climbed up on the target about three inches and shrank to less than 1.5″ for five shots. I was onto something, but still shooting poorly.
None of the usual techniques worked!
Group after group was a heartbreaker, with three shots going into an American quarter and numbers four and five opening it up. I tried every technique I know, and even held the rifle firmly to see if that was the solution. It wasn’t. I also tried something that usually doesn’t work – I rested the gun DIRECTLY on a sandbag without a hand in between. Voila! The groups tightened by a third! My best group of the session at 33 yards was one that measures 0.886″ – just over 3/4 of an inch. I shot enough similar-sized groups with this technique to know that this one is not a fluke.
While the CF-X is not in the TX200 class for accuracy, it’s right there with most RWS Diana guns. I know I said yesterday that an RWS Diana 52 can almost keep all its shots on a dime at 30 yards, but I believe the CF-X can do it, too. With my limited test, all I did was establish that the gun can shoot – I have not pushed it as far as it will go. Just hand-sorting the pellets should eliminate another quarter-inch from the groups. And, who knows what the absolute best pellet may be? Discovering that requires an investment in range time.
I couldn’t get Raptors to print on the target paper at 33 yards, so I backed up to 15 FEET and shot a couple. They were already beginning to disburse at that close range, so I knew they would be wildly inaccurate in this rifle. I then moved the target to 15 yards (45 feet) and proceeded to shoot a five-shot group that measured 1.065″. At 33 yards, that would open to a four or five-inch group which is absurd. The Raptor is not a pellet for the CF-X. CF-X guy – if you want to shoot tin cans with them, make sure they’re close.
My take on the Gamo CF-X? It’s a heck of a lot of air rifle for the money! The action is tight and smooth and the rifle is light and very easy to cock. The trigger is the worst feature, but it’s one of the better Gamo triggers I’ve seen (and we know it gets better with use). The rifle is surprisingly accurate, and I will be recommending it to a lot of new shooters. The Leapers scope and B-Square mounts made this test very easy and pleasurable.
355 thoughts on “Gamo CF-X field test”
BB I like the three pellet test (and the specific ones you chose for it). It should be an industry standard!
Thanks for two excellent pieces, one on the RWS 52. I suspect in response to my earlier comment on the gun and the present piece on the CFX. I am a newbie to air guns and when I bought the 52, I had read that these guns are very responsive to the pellets used by both weight and brand and with the more powerful spring guns, you want to keep the velocity well under Mach 1 (1100 fps); consequently, I bought a variety of pellets to try out. After reading both yesterday’s and today’s piece, I may well have over bought my selection of pellets and your response to the following list of pellets may well be beneficial to other readers. I will list what I bought and perhaps you can suggest what was un-necessary, or perhaps potentially damaging to the RWS 52. Crossman Copperheads (7.9gr), RWS Pellet Sampler Package. A Korean off brand that came with the rifle “Cobra” (13.1gr), H&N Baracuda Match (10.65 gr ), Beeman Silver Arrow (11.5 gr), Crossman Premier Heavy (10.9gr), Gamo Sampler Pack (of 4 different pellets), finally, I may have gone overboard and bought Eun Jin (16.1 gr). First question is have I over done it with the heavy pellets? Some of these are very heavy for a 177 and can they damage the gun? So far I have been using the Copperheads, Premier (Heavy), and Gamo Match. The best accuracy is (10 Yards) with Crossman Premier (Heavy). I need to also say, I am not a hunter, and all I do is punch holes I paper with the intent of becoming a better shot with my other firearms. I am also the guy who asked about the IZH 46M a while ago and I bought that as well following your comments. Finally, I have been using the 22 cal bullet trap and it has worked very well with the RWS 52. I would urge anyone looking for a trap to use in the house with one of the more powerful air guns, to consider a 22 cal trap, not a trap designed essentially for pellets.
I have the old RWS 48/52 (the smooth stock is a 48 and the checkered stock is a 52) with the curled metal safety at the back. It can shoot out to 100 yards with decent accuracy. I use Rocky Mraz’s Huckleberry target for indoors, but with a large backstop and side boards for any odd movement or ricochets. LEAD PELLETS ONLY! I have a Sheridan .22 LR trap, but dents in the angled back plate can put pellet slivers in your face at 10 meters. I pulled a small aluminum banana out of my cheek below my shooting glasses. After that, I made sure to pound the dents in the plate smooth. GAMO Rocket and Armor pellets have tiny steel BB’s in the heads that can dent a .22 LR target back plate and cause fragmentation and injury.
Thank you for such a detailed comment. You know, it’s been several years since I really tested a .177 RWS 52, but I do know that those who shoot it in field target matches use the Crosman Premier light (7.9-grain) pellet. In fact, remembering that wasa what prompted me to try them in the CF-X. Now the 52 is a good bit more powerful than a CF-X, and the Premiers will be going pretty fast, but I would give them a try.
I do not believe heavy pellets will damage spring guns. That’s contrary to what a lot of shooters think, but I’ve never seen any evidence to support that they do.
And, YES, to the bullet trap!
Earlier I asked about scoping a BS 392 and you asked for a report. I’ve since thought better of the whole thing. The Williams peep works well enough to avoid the risk and expense of a scope experiment gone bad.
I would like to mention pellet traps. I’ve been using the Cone Pellet Trap by GAMO for months and have quite an investment in paper targets for it. It’s falling apart just from using my 392 at no closer than 10 yards and further. The spot welds on the bottom cap of the dead-pellet well gave loose so I “glued” it with a metal epoxy and it’s been holding. But I’ve noticed that the top and sides of the funnel are bulging due to pellet impact and I’m getting concerned it may fail, so I’m thinking about a replacement.
PyrmyrdAir advertizes the Gamo trap with a “lifetime warranty” printed right on the web page, but I like the idea of the trap mentioned by PCR suitable for .22 bullets. Thoughts?
Love the information exchange here!
Not just “thoughts,” I’m doing tomorrow’s post on this very subject, brought up by another reader last Friday. I’m going to include a portion of your comment in the posting.
Thanks again for a great post.I want to ask,on the post you said that the raptors are inaccurate, so A what distance are this pellets accurate?
I destroyed a BB/Pellet trap and finally got a DO All rimfire box that works just fine with no significant damage so far. They are realtively inexpensive and last forever. I got mine at a Gander Mountain here in Illinois but here’s a site ref:
how do you think that leapers scope would look on a crosman 1077? I’ve been in need for a dedicated go to scope for my 1077 for a while now but most are either to long or way to short for what theyre being used for
I shot them at 15 FEET and they were already spreading!
I suppose they will usually hit anything that is inside the barrel when they are shot.
I think this particular Leapers scope is a winner. However, don’t overlook the new 6X Bug Buster, unless the looks of this one are what you are after.
My cf-x’s trigger paint is worn of with very little use.What can I do to paint it back?
What should I use?
When you say that a air rifle calm’s down after a break-in period does it quiet down after awhile also?
Has anyone here in the US been able to get the CFX in .22? I would prefer the Royal and
would be willing to pay very good money. Also, I know that they are available in every
(airgun legal) country in the world except U.S. & Canada. What would be the issues, if
any, of driving into Mexico, buying one and bringing it back into country?
The pellets aren’t so fiddly to load on the .22, which is one reason I got it rather than a .177
The CFX Royal in .22 likes H&N FTT pellets — label on the underside of their tin says they are 5.54
So does the 440.
Re the question on noise – (at UK non-FAC power limit) the CFX is noticeably noisier than the same-power Gamo 440, though not excessively so. Both at their quietest if fed their favourite pellets.
I have a scoped 392. I answered on what parts were used in the rws 52 comment section. I want to add, if you use the Crosman 4 piece inter-mount you have to use a scope with a long eye relief.
After reading all the admonitions against gripping the forend or the pistol grip, or pulling the stock into one’s shoulder, I can’t help wondering how one is to obtain any accuracy from the off-hand hunter’s stance. I have no way to set up a shooting bench, so all my shooting necessarily is off-hand or sitting. I seem to be hitting the target OK, but I’m certainly not punching dime-size groups, let alone one-holers, nor expecting to.
I’d like to know what sort of groups a modest off-hand shot could expect from the various rifles and pellets you test. I realize that would introduce an unpredictable variable into the test, but some sort of benchmark might be welcome to others who don’t shoot from rests.
Hunters can rest the forearm on the flat of their hand rested on a knee, or the back of an arm braced against a tree. But like I said in the report, the CF-X doesn’t act the way most other springers do. So I’d say you need to experiment to find the best hold.
The CF-X trigger isn’t painted – it’s blued, which is really black oxide. So if you’ve worn it off that soon you must have extra-acidic hands.
No paint will work for this. You may have to do some touchup with a cold blue. Look at Webley Gun Blue.
I did a quick search of this blog for “RWS 52” like you mentioned, looking for your comments on your scoped 392, but didn’t find it. Can you be more specific on where/when you commented?
Ill get the cold bue.Ists worn off because I have super sweaty hands.One question
Does an anodized trigger get rust and ware off?
On the post you said that the cf-x throws the kodiaks all over the place.Then you said you shoot it resting it in a sandbag wich is rare but I tried it on mine and got much better accuracy.Also try a hard grip and I got better accuracy.I want to know ,
if you shoot the cf-x with the right technic,will you be able to get accurate shoots and good groups with the kodiaks?
Sorry for sending you on a wild goose chase. I commented on what parts I used to scope my benji 392 on the Crosman 1077 comments section. The method described provides a rock solid mount. I hope all goes well. Report back, and let us know what you think and how it went. Thanks
Appreciate your comments on the 392 scope and the pellet trap. Definitely time to retire this trap I’m using.
I’ve been rethinking this idea of scoping my 392 and will probably kick it around some more before putting it to rest. My peep sight works as well as my older eyes will allow so I’m torn. Jason, I’ll find your comments give it some more thought.
The Williams peep sights are wonderful and a lot of people use them instead of a scope. The great thing is if you have the peep sight and a scope w/ mount you can always change between them. The best of both worlds! Thanks,
My CF-X seems to like the Gamo hunter pellets best. I put one of Charlie Tuna’s GTX triggers on it and what a fantastic improvement. Trigger pull is smooth, crisp and light. Installation is a simple 15min. job. One question though, how do you clean the barrel? Seems like the rotary breech is too much in the way to push a brush through.
The Gamo rotary breech does make cleaning difficult. About all you can do with the CF-X is clean from the muzzle.
Fortunately, airgun barrels seldom need to be cleaned.
first of all thanks b.b. for all the great info. In reading post about the cf-x i noticed alote of same things with my 220 hunter. after about 3000 shots figered groups were not going to get any better although the triger did. after taking gun off the bench and trying off hand shots with a tighter grip all around. groupings seem to get smaller. back to the bench and 2000 more shots(motorcykel wreak = wheelchair for last 10months =lots of pratice)with rest just in front of trigger my best 3shot group at 10m is 1/4in and down to 1-1/2in from 3 to 4in at 65yds.mind you thats my personal best somedays better than others.now the good part yesterday the main spring broke about 1-1/2 or twp coils from the end.need a new spring any help would be greatful. thanks all jbyrd
Send your gamo for a tune with BOB.His called charlie the tuna.Hes great.The website is http://www.charliethetuna.com.He also has the gtx trigger mod wich is great and will reduce the trigger pull to aprox 1.75lbs.Hell also give it a tune and the springs will be new and better.Go in the website and read about it.Get better soon!!!
Contact your dealer for repair info on your 220. If they can’t handle it, contact gamo usa at:
They should be able to help you. I believe they warrant their guns for life to the first owner, as long as there have been no modifications.
thanks for the info.any thought on the hold of these guns? went threw a lot of lead to find out it didn’t like the soft touch. And will the new spring need brakein time?
I think you are ahead of me on the 220. And as for the mainspring, my experience has all been with other guns. To be honest, yours is the first Gamo spring break I’ve heard of.
I can tell you this on the hold, however. A sensitive rifle will respond to WHERE on the stock you hold it. I always thought RWS rifles were the most sensitive and that Gamos were less sensitive.
just my luck on the breaks this year!! any place to get just the spring for the doit your selfer? with the rest just in front of trigger,gun almost balanced but not quit seems it likes this the best
Try John Groenewold at 847-566-2365.
Thanks B.B. I’ll give him a call.
Do the gamo raptor pellets go supersonic and make a crack when you shoot them in the cf-x?
Yes, they do. However, because the CF-X is so quiet, the extra noise isn’t really bothersome.
BB, and all,
Ahhh yes, the long awaited cf-x report!
Thanks, very informative.
Love that scope, I will most likely replace my full size with that one. was a scope stop not integraded with the rings? and did you say you used high mount rings? They dont look it.
Yes, those are high mounts, but being 30 mm this pair doesn’t have a scope stop, so I used the B-Square I described in the article.
I am going to get one of those scopes. they make one that is adjusted at 35yds which I would think to be more ideal for the CF-X but I’m not sure about the Illumination. Do I need illumination with a 30mm tube? I am happy with non illumination and would like the 35yd adjustability.
What say Ye?
I wouldn’t get the 35 yard fixed parallax. You want parallax that adjusts to all ranges. The illumination is something I seldom use, but it’s good for hunting in dark areaqs.
For months I have been looking at the three mini scopes and didn’t make the connection, my bad
I want to know why is it that most air rifles shoot accurately with a soft hold technic and the cf-x is accurate with a hard hold and using unusual technics?
Just wondering if any of you out there had found an outlet in the States for a .22cal version of this. As of yet, the only availability that I have found is in the UK. Would like to try it in that caliber, but don’t want to spend the cost of the gun getting it. Any help would be appreciated.
I ordered the CFX royal in .22 from the UK and bit the bullet, Was told by GamoUSA they have no plans to import them.
Got a new rifle yesterday, (although it’s one they stopped making a few years ago)… a (.22) BSA Superstar.
Influenced by already having a CFX, and partly by BB’s favourable reminiscences on the BSA, took a chance on buying it without having handled one before – and am very glad that I did!
The Superstar has quite superb balance, and seems less hold-critical than its Gamo successor.
If only the Leapers mini 3-12×44 IR mildot Scope was available in the UK, reckon it would be a perfect match.
Want to clean your CF-X ? Get a Hoppes Bore Snake made for .177 airguns, carefull… they make one for .17cal firearms. Get the airgun model it does NOT have the metal brush bristles!! The bore snake will fit into the barrel from the rotating breech if you shorten (hacksaw) the brass weight just a little. Go slow, cut a little & try, eventually it will slide right in( I cut mine too short, but it’s still heavy enough to work). One or two passes with the bore snake should safely satisfy your cleaning urges!!
Thanks for that tip!
I know Pyramyd Air ships all around the world. And the credit card company will do the currency exchange. So you really don’t need to suffer. I have no idea what tarrif or V.A.T. you might have to pay, but at the low price of the Leapers, you might still come out ahead.
Sadly, when looked it up on Pyramid Air the shipping cost was shown at around $60….
VAT in the UK is 17.5%.
May have to settle for a Bushnell Trophy 3-9×40 mildot instead; at 11.7 inches long it might just fit. It’s either that or a non-illuminated 25mm tube Leapers (but AGS badged) mini 6×40 mildot that’s less than half its price.
My CF – X has a BSA 3x-12x 50mm scope on it and at 30 yards it will group Logun Penetrators within a nickel size area. I’ve not tried it on live vamints yet, but I am looking forward to.
Hi we own 3 CFX Royals,
The only problem that I have picked up , if you dont seat the pellet properly they tend to hook the O ring on the breech and either pull it out or cut it. It is a simple repair but annoying.
I have found that a Gammo TS 10 (10.5 grain) works very well and the supprising thing with new O-ring it consistently tested at 969fps believe it or not. With the factory O-Ring in the other 2 rifle only read 879 fps on average
The Gamo TS is not available here in the U.S. However, Gamo also has the weight of their new Raptor pellet listed incorrectly on their website, so who knows what the truth is?
HI MON,MR B B. I LIVE IN THE WEST INDIES, INJOY HUNTING DUCKS, DOVES,PIDGONS .AND GETTING RID OF RATS AND MONGOOSE I USE THE HUNTER 220 WITH ATASCO 3-34 SCOPE AMAZEING SCOPE I JUST ORDERED A CF-X WHICH I SHOULD RECIVE ON THE 4-3-06 THANKS FOR THE TIPS ON THE CF-X HUNTING IN THE WEST INDIES IS GREAT FUN KEEP SHOOTING JEFF ANTIGUA W.I.
ive just bought one off these guns and you are right its a lot of gun for the money extremely powerfull
thank you for the wonderful review. I am currently going to purchase an adult air rifle here in canada and half narrowed the field to either the gamo varmit hunter or the cf-x. Wondering if you have an experience with the varmit hunter and which oneyou would recommend over the other.
About the same price shipped to my door for either one. Since this will be a varmit gun, synth stock is a must but formost is accuracy. I can later scope the cf-x if need be. Fancy addons look good but the gun must shoot well first 🙂
any help would be greatly appreciated
Choosing from just those two rifles, I have to select the CF-X. The Varmint Hunter is older technology and vibrates/recoils a lot more than the CF-X.
(I live in France —-> sorry i’m not fluent in English…) I just want to know if Shadow 1000 and CFX have approximately the same accuracy on target ? (I read that CFX have small problems with pellets and rotary breech…) Shadow 1000 is a good air-rifle ???? I am going to buy a air rifle and I hesitate between both…
Your English is fine.
I have tested both the Gamo Shadow 1000 and the CF-X and I think the CF-X is more accurate.
The rotary breech can be difficult to load because the pellet flips over on the loading ramp and tries to enter the barrel backwards.
Both guns are good for the price, but I do like the CF-X best.
Thanks a lot B.B.,
Everything is more clear to make the good choice…
Would a Leapers 3-9x32mm Range Estimating A.O. Full Size Scope withstand the recoil of an un-modified RWS 34?
Any Leapers scope should handle a Diana 34 with no problems.
Thanks B.B.. I’ve decided to go with a Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope with R/G. Lots of features for not much money.
hi bb. iv heard in some cases that the main spring in the cfx sometimes breaks after mild usage. Have you expierienced this ever or is it something i wont need to worry about.
Hi BB. WHy is it that the cfx showed diff. result than other spring action guns. Is it made out of a diff. synthetic stock material or could it be that the one you tested was a bad apple out of the cfx line. Also im looking for a highly accurate rifle that i can hold and not rest on anything. THX
HI BB WHAT PELLETS DO YOU RECOMMEND FOR THE CFX
HEY IV HEARD THAT CLEANING THE CFX CAN BE KIND OF A PAIN. WOULD CLEANING PELLETS WORK??
1. CF-X mainspring are not known for breakingt.
2. Since you never clean a pellet rifle, why worry about it?
3. I always recommend Beeman Kodiaks and JSB Exact pellets in both weights for the CF-X.
The CF-X I tested was not bad. For a Gamo, it was extremely good. A TX200 will outshoot it, but it will also outshoot any other spring rifle except a Whiscombe.
If you want a rifle that requires no technique to be accurate, you want a pneumatic. A PCP like the Talon from AirForce is a wondefrully accurate rifle that need not be held in any special way.
what scope would you say is the best top of the line scope for the cfx. Money is not an issue.
The CF-X needs a shorter scope to allow loading room. I could recommend the Leupols Vari-X II, but the optics are not as clear and sharp as the Leapers scope shown on the gun in the picture above.
Because of the shorter scope limitation, A shot Leapers would be my recommendation.
I’m looking at spending $250 or under for a simple air rifle to kill some squirrels with. I’ve been looking at the CF-X Combo, and the Shadow Combo. I’m not going to be shooting at distances about 50-60 feet tops. Which gun should I get? Also, with that gun, which pellet should I use to best take down the squirrel in one shot?
To all Shooters
I purchased a Gamo CFX last year and found it to be a very impressive rifle.
Mine is .177 cal. Found the trigger creepy though. I modified the trigger by installing a lighter spring for first stage and made a 2mm (0.078″) longer adjusment screw for second stage. The trigger can now be adjusted for a very crisp creepless lett off. I tested safety by cocking the rifle and bashing it a bit as this type of adjustment is very dangerous, so please be GAREFULL if attemted and watch that muzzle controll.
I managed a group of 10mm (0.39″) at 20 meters (21 yards) with supplied open signts. This was with a prone position resting the rifle forend on a sponge. Found a loose hold to be most accurate.
It has been a bit since anyone posted on here, but I was just surfing the archives today and this caught my attention. The report says that the Gamo Raptor is NOT a good pellet for the CF-X, but I have had very good success with the pellet in my CF-X. I have killed several pest birds out at 30+ plus yards, and couple at 50 yards, and one at all the way out at 65 yards.
It could have been just a lucky shot, but I have had several of those “lucky” shots, so not inclined that way. But, I have had shots that missed when I was pretty sure they were going to score, so maybe it just flings them around, and every so many shots I get “lucky”.
Just a few thoughts.
Well, I got a powerful .177 GAMO Varmint Hunter a week ago because of the (poor, but adequate) included BSA scope & laser sight/flash light combination made the buy seem like a good deal. I returned it immediately as the accuracy of the gun was “good”, but definitely not good enough. I then hooked myself up with a Winchester Summit 1000, as I was very attracted to the WAY better scope than the BSA combo that came with the GAMO Varmint Hunter, but the results were still about the same. Although the Summit 1000 seemed to be louder and a tad more powerful than the GAMO Varmint hunter, it was still unacceptable, accuracy wise. I think that the loudness of the Summit also psyched me to think that it was more powerful. NOT, The Varmint Hunter was. Anyway, I returned the Summit and ended up with the GAMO CFX as the fixed barrel was my incentive towards better accuracy. I was right. The GAMO CFX simply whooped butt over the other two rifles that I have tested. I shot all the rifles at 10 ~ 30 ~ 50 yards, fixed target(s), rifle(s) resting on stacked sandbags for near zero movement. Now concerning the GAMO Raptor pellets: When I sighted my rifles using these pellets, they were VERY accurate, fast and true. So, I really do not understand the negative write-ups with the Raptors. I simply must disagree. The other pellets that I have tried, (Lead: GAMO Match, Hunter, Magnum and Match points as well as the Crosman .177 hollow points) seemed to drift, in general, lower and sometimes to the right. Also, I found that the GAMO match pellets seemed to keep up, by less than a half an inch, in line of the Raptors which, like I said, I found to be the more accurate pellet if your rifle is properly sighted using them even though they are pricier. The CFX is definitely a very accurate rifle and for the price, is a great deal. I would go with a better scope that comes with the GAMO CFX, like the Crosman that comes with the Remington Summit 1000, a 4×32 Mini A.O. The Bug Buster, a 6×32 Mini Size A.O. Bug Buster 2, or a Leapers 3-12X44 30mm SWAT Mini Size a. There are most probably several other scopes that are better to use with the CFX than the one that came with it.
I have owned my Gamo CFX Combo with the BSA 2-7×32 scope for about 2 years now. I have found it to be a real tack driver at 20-30 yards, but also very capable of reaching out to 50 even 60 yards to bring down those gun wary Crows. For me I have had the best results loading up with RWS SuperPoint Extra’s for fairly consistent accuracy with the occasional stray now n’ then. What I have noticed is that keeping it pulled tight to the shoulder with a firm grip just in front of the scope rail on the back half of the front grips while keeping an easy grip with the trigger hand. Then take up the trigger stack and fire with a quick trigger pull.. Well, at lest that’s what works best for me anyway. .HEHE. . It couldn’t hurt. Give it a try, if it works for me it might work for you. But, yea I’m pretty pleased with my CFX. It packs a nice punch to, but these superpoints do tend to over penetrate quite a bit! Got any suggestions??
Hey guys, I have just one simple question I was hoping someone could answer. For use on the cf-x, I see that the leapers scope in the test had the B-square 11mm dovetail rings. If for example I wanted to use the bug buster/bug buster 2 scope, which rings would I buy for use on the cf-x with these scopes? Thanks for the help. =]
If you want non-adjustable rings, the A.G.E. 2-piece medium height airgun rings look good.
If you want adjustable rings, the 2-piece B-Square Interlock Adjustable rings look good.
Thanks for the quick reply B.B. One more quick question I have regarding these scopes. I’m a little indecisive about which one I’m going to purchase. the two in question are the Bug Buster 2, and the one you used in the field test. The price difference and and 3-yd minimum parallax setting makes the Bug Buster slightly more appealing to me, although I’m not sure if i’ll even use it that close. Have you had any experience with the Bug Buster 2, and if not what do you feel really sets the scope from your test apart? I see the Leapers 3-12x has the variable magnification whereas the buster is a fixed 6. Other than this and the objective diameter, are there any durability differences between the two that you’ve heard of? I really just want something thats going to remain reliable through years of use. Thanks again.
The Bug Buster 2 is a fine scope. The biggest drawback is how difficult it is to mount because it is so short. The 12X scope used in the test is also very compact, but it’s bigger than the Bug Buster. It does have brighter optics, which give you a 15-minute edge in the morning and evening, as far as hunting time goes. That’s important to deer hunters, but not to squirrel hunters.
If the choie were mine, I’d get the Bug Buster.
Hey BB, I’m having a slight problem at the moment. I just opened my CFX and cleaned the “grease” if you will off the outside with some hoppes. Worked great, but I didnt think the inside of the barrel would have anything in it. Upon firing, smoke and a nasty smell came out. Any tips on what to do? Im sure hoppes would do a good job, I’m just having trouble finding something to go down through the barrel. Thanks in advance!
Keep Hoppes No. 9 out of all airguns! It attacks the seals.
Cleaning the CF-X is difficult because of how it works, but why do you have to? It can just be shot as is. The smoke you saw is normal and may or may not last awhile. Just shoot the gun.
The product I used on the outside wasnt no.9. It was called Hoppes Elite foaming metal conditioner. Is this just as bad as the no.9? Hope using it on the outside wouldnt have messed it up, because a little may have gone around the breach.
I did a search but couldn’t find the exact product you mention. However, the Elite series is formulated to remove metal fouling and that stuff is usually bad for synthetic seals.
HI bb, my queastion is what is the best air rifle that is under 500 fps.
The best air rifle under 500 f.p.s. is the IZH 61.
MR.BB I need help in finding out why my gamo 890s and remington summit springs broke within 6 months? Is it something I did.
If you over-oiled your guns or used pellets that are too light (7 grains for .177 and 12 grains for .22) then you might have had somthing to do with it, but I think not.
Both guns have mainsprings that are stressed to the maximum. They need medium weight lead pellets (8 grains in .177 and 14 grains in .22) to make the piston not smack the end of the compression chamber, setting up a wave of vibrations in the mainspring.
hello, I would like to know several things about this rifle, or any 1000 fps rifles in general.
I want to set up a shooting place in my backyard, (which isn’t very big, 30-50 feet max range), but i want accuracy. I need a pellet trap to protect my wall, a big one, like home made out of cardboard or playwood or something. How much do you think it would take to stop a bullet from the cfx?
No wooden pellet trap is suitable for the CF-X. You need either steel (the Heavy duty trap that is now out of stock) or the Quiet Trap.
A 2 by 4 will stop pellet from the CF-X, but after 20 shots in the same place, they will shoot through. Since you will be shooting targets, count on them all hitting in the same place.
I’m confused. in reply to a comment above on the best pellet for the CF-X you said:
“3. I always recommend Beeman Kodiaks and JSB Exact pellets in both weights for the CF-X.”
of those three, two of them are very heavy (10gr+). However, in the review, you said in bold “I learned that the CF-X does not like heavy pellets!”
So, which is it? I am poor and would like to purchase 4 cans of pellets but I need to know if I should get them heavy or medium or light. I know you’re the man so I just need clarification! BTW, I will be killing small squirrels around my house….only, Thank you.
You were right to call me on this. I recommended those pellets without reading my own test. The CF-X I tested liked Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets the best. One box of them has 1,250 pellets, so it’s like 2.5 boxes of anything else.
If you are buying three pellets to get the 4th free, I would also try the 7.6 grain JSB Diabolo Exacts, too.
I’m sorry for the mistake.
Thank you, no problem at all. I just wanted to make the most of my purchase. I was going to get a few different brands to test which seems easy to pick until you start throwing weights into the mix, before you know it you’re up to twelve cans!
Also, the way the article flows, you switched pellets before sandbagging the CF-X (of course!)so I wasnt sure if you went through all the pellets again after sandbagging the rifle or not. You can only give so much detail in an article which is why all these comments are so valuable to us readers.
No, I didn’t retest after sandbagging. But in all the testing I’ve done recently I note that lighter pellets often do perform best in springers.
i’m glad you did a review on the cf-x it’s helped me make up my mind to buy one but… the scope, i can’t decide.
i like the one you demo’d. the “3-12×44 30mm swat mini” and i also like the”6×32 mini bug buster2″
the bug buster Parallax setting is 3yards-infinity and the 3-12×44 is 10yards-infinity
i like them both which one would you recomend, and what mounting would you go with if you choose the bug buster? because you demo’d the b-square 30mmx11mm and it,s suggested to go with the 3/8 dovetail mount with the bug buster will this fit? thanks for your input.
i just read some of the above comments and it looks like your going with the bug buster 2 as scope of choice
i’m just wondering about “mounting rings” for my cf-x and if i would get the B-Square 11.7mm recoil stop block to go with the scope?
I can’t recommend the Bug Buster for the CF-X. The BB is a short scope, and the CF-X has a recoil stop block positioned so far forward that the exit pupil will be off. You’ll only see a small portion of the image from the BB.
if the only reason for not liking the bug buster2 is that the built in scope stop is to far forward to use the scope properly why not just un scerw it and mount something like the b-square stop?
did you have this problem when you mounted the leapers mini swat? i remeber you saying if was thight to get on, or a tricky thing to mount.
Did you ever find a grip that worked with the cf-x while in a standing position with a post or something to rest against? I’ll be shooting squirrels from my balcony using the doorframe to rest against. Im getting mixed results at the range emulating this position with both loose and tight grips. In fact, I can only shoot 3/4 inch groups by resting it and touching nothing but the trigger @ 25 yrds. Of course, I cant sort pellets by weight which i think is a major factor. This brings me to my second question. What is the most affordable electronic scale you can reccomend with confidence? Thank you for your time.
In your situation I would try the gel shooting support Pyramyd sells. You’d rest it on the railing with the gun on top.
I bought my electronic scale from Midway. I remember paying about $80 seven years ago.
Watch them as they have sales several times a year.
I have had a Cf-x for a while now and my pellet of choice is by far the RWS superdome. I read a post earlier saying the RWS point, and I would tend to agree with that too. The RWS weights seem to work well in the Cf-x.
Also, in response to the backstop question, I have had great success with a homemade backstop, especially when looking for a big one. I found the biggest cardboard box in my house (a widescreen tv box would be perfect), make sure it is at least a foot deep (in the direction of the moving pellets) and fill it to the brim with all your old newspapers, phone books, magazines, etc. THese wil stop a pellet quickly, but more importantly disperse the pellet so that there is less of a problem when hitting the same spot over and over. And if worried, just put some more newspapers in there. It also catches the bits of fired pellets, keeping lead out of your yard!
***Note: IN ORDER FOR THIS STOP TO BE EFFECTIVE/SAFE IT MUST BE FULL!!! IT SHOULD BE PACKED TIGHT AND WILL BE VERY HEAVY WHEN PROPERLY FILLED***
All in all, I love my CF-x, it is tough, powerful, and is more accurate than my shooting can produce yet which is more than I could ask for at under $200
Dave (the other cf-x guy)
Some other odds and ends concerning the cf-x:
1. I have found that rubber sealing foam (i had some left over from a boat construction) works extreemly well as a pellet holder. It is about an inch wide and can be cut into any length desired. I cut mine about 4in long. Then take a drill bit about the size of a pellet (not in the drill) and press/turn the bit into the foam rubber. Dont go all the way through though. I fit to rows on mine and it functions just like the holders sold at pyramid.
2. ALso, for all synthetic stock owners, I have found that elmer’s rubber cement works excellently for attaching things semi-permenantly to the stock of your rifle. I used it to attach my pellet holder to the butt of my cf-x (as constructed above). It holds things on the stock for as long as needed, but then you can just pull, and the thing will come off. THen some rubbing with the palm of your hand will take off all the cement that was on it, leaving your stock as it was before.
3. I was able to connstruct a bipod for my cf-x as well. Using 2 plastic pices that i stumbled on by accident. THey can be found under the pumps on new handsoap containers (the plastic piece is what holds it down) ask your wives/mothers if they know what i am talking about, I bet they will. Anyway, I took two of those and embedded them in a piece of wood to which i then attached two pvc pipes at the proper angles. On the bottom of these i insterted wooden plugs (made on a lathe) and then dipped the feet in the do it youself rubber coating stuff. It doesnt look pretty, but it works well. The plastic pieces, with a little push, clip right onto the underlever of the cf-x, and can just as quickly be removed for cocking. It isn’t rock solid, but certinly is better than resting it on air.
4. I have attached a BSA air rifle scope that I got when i got my gun (from cabela’s) IT is the BSA 2-7 x 32 mm It was suggested that long scope dont fit well, but this is a large scope and it works quite well for me. I hav eit positioned as far back as possible, but only because it works for my sighting. It may not work for everyone, but I think its great. Especially with the adjustable focus/paralax and the adjustable magnification seem enough but not overkill.
5. WHen hunting at night (for anyone that does —especially RATS!!) I have found that it is possible to remove the from sight (non permenant and non breaking) from the gun. just push out the tension pin and unhook the underlever to slide off the barrel shroud. The post can then be slid out. After reassembling it w/o the front post, there is a small hole, but also a groove. I attached a small pressure switch torch (flashlight) to the front by sliding the torch’s clip into the hole. It fits perfectly (my torch is the Gerber infinity ultra task light) and illuminates everything out to about 15 yds. Worked well for night hunting and could probably be used for other things (this techneque got me 2 rats!!)
***note: gamo/pyramid air/BB peletier/ me do not endorse/guarantee/recommend any of these modifications without serious thought to any dangers or consequenses and we accept no responibility for anything resulting from their use/implication***
(can you tell I know a lawyer?) : )
Dave (the other cf-x guy)
Dave (the other CF-X guy),
Wow! What a pair of comments!
i have a question about the leapers scope you used. i just got mine every thing is very thight i loosened back the set-screws for the elevation and windegde but there arn’t screws for the side wheel adjustable objective and it is especially thight not only that but theres a creeping “twing,ping” noise coming from the scope when i adjust it back and forth. my question: is there a break in period for this scope( is that noise healthy?) or is this the reason they sell the big wheel for side wheel adjustment , for more leverage on it?
thanks for the help on this. great review on cfx by the way mines on order from a place in montreal called le baron outdoor products CANT WAIT!
Woodie said……….. Hi b.b. I am new to air guns and have been reading lots of good things about the Gamo CF-X. I intend to buy one but i would like the .22 model. Is this a wise choice for a new shooter or should i go for the .177? If i went for the .22 would i get the same type of quality with accuracy as your readers mention allowing for the natural difference between .177 and .22.
I was shooting my cfx one day and accidentally shot with the breech block in the open position (I was kinda frustrated with my groups and got distracted by my dad but still mad at myself forgetting that after 1000 shots). I could hear the compression in the cylinder kinda built up with this sorta “pooof” sound. I was afraid the cylinder and seals would be gone and make the gun unshootable but it actually seems to work okay. It sounds the same and seems to shoot with the same velocity (from what I can tell, I dont have a chronograph). The only thing I can tell, which is preety faint, is that when I push the underlever back up I can tell it isn’t as smooth (its easy to move and then a little harder and then back to easy)… I’m pretty sure the compression pushed out the cylinder a little but I think all the seals are ok as of now. Im just wondering if this really hurt the gun and if it did how much velocity will i lose from this. Will the gun break after another 500 pellets, ECT. I’m just looking for what everyone thinks on the situation.
You didn’t hurt your gun. All you did was retard the piston by not allowing the compressed air to escape. You also proved that the breech is sealed well.
Keep on shooting.
What do you think is the maximum range that the cfx can take a crow or a squrriel.
OOO and with what pellet do you suggest.
Assuming a .177, I’d say 50 yards is the limit. I would try JSB Exact 10.2-grain and Kodiaks, but the Premier 7.9 might be a sleeper.
I have a CFX and I tried to use the Leapers scope that is pictured in this report. I could not establish the proper eye relief for comfortable shooting. Is there a way to move the scope rearward in order to improve this situation?
I have been thinking about trying to get a Charlie Tuna trigger for my CFX so as to beat the nasty trigger. Have you tried one? Do you think it will make a difference?
I haven’t tried one of Charlie’s triggers, but I read a lot of good reports about them. I’d soy go for it.
I am trying to get one brought out to South Africa by someone traveling from the States next month. I will let you know how it goes.
This seems like a stupid questing although you say there is no such thing. On the CFX’s current trigger the first stage can be adjusted. How far can you turn the adjustment screw? If I keep on turning it clockwise to shorten the first stage will it eventually come to a stop at its maximum adjustment or will it fall apart?
Are you trying to remove all the first stage travel? I’m not sure that’s possible.
This question should be directed towards Gamo specialists, which I am not. My experience with Gamo trigger asjustments indicates that the screws have only limited range.
I am trying to take out as much travel as possible, but I don’t know how much this is. I will send a mail to Gamo and see what they have to say.
What scope are you using?
I went with variable powered Gamo scope which I bought from Nicholas Yale in Braamfontein. I basically only had a fixed focus Gamo or variable focus Gamo to choose from. I am not sure that we have all that much of a choice in SA when it comes to scopes for air rifles, but one I got has made a huge difference to my shooting.
You are right about the scope choice. There shouldn’t be a problem importing one from this site? We also have a problem with pellet choice. Can one get Crosman Premier, Accupell ect here? What pellets are you using? Rosenthal SA ( Cape Town, Hout Str.)imports the Weihrauch and I am in a quandry as to which gun to buy. B.B. mentioned that the HW 97 and CFX are sensitive as to the hold, and I have had a sensitive airgun before so this puts me off. A sensitive airgun is a complete pain. I need an inherently accurate airgun, not too high powered so I’m looking at the HW57 (820ft/s) with the BSA 3-12 – 44. B.B. has not done a test so I’m buying a bit blind. A lot of people mention the creepy gamo trigger so that also put me off the CFX. Actually, is it such a big problem?
I haven’t been able to find Crossman Premiers so I have been using Crossman Premier Hollow Points which I got from http://www.bulldog.co.za. They are fairly accurate as I managed to hit a mynah at 30m the other day, but it may have been a fluke. I have also been using something called a Predator with straighter sides which I got from Sharpshooter in Sandton City which seem to give a tighter group. I have got a couple of others, but these seem to be the best for the CFX.
I unfortunately don’t know the Weihrauch range at all. All I’ve got is the CFX and an old BSA Meteor. The Gamo trigger isn’t great, but you do start getting used to it when you shoot a lot. However, I have gone ahead and purchased a new trigger from http://www.charliedatuna.com which I should hopefully be getting this weekend as switching back to the Meteor every now and then highlights the failings of the Gamo trigger.
Thanks. I ordered the 97k. Will pick it up April 3rd. (waiting for the container to arrive) Pretty exited as my previous gun was a cheap Chinese model. Self destructed after 2500 rounds.
B.B., I was looking at getting the 440 Hunter. Any comments on its performance? I was also looking at the Viper but not sure if a newer design is always better as I have read several reviews at Cabalas all indicating that it won’t hold “0” and after a dozen shots need to be re-sighted. It will be used primarily for squirrel control and want to make sure each shot counts.
The 440 is a nice gun and should do what you want to. As for the Viper, I have no experience with it, but I doubt that it won’t hold it’s zero. That sounds like operator error to me.
would you reccomend crosman 10.5 premiers in the cfx?
10.5-grain Premiers migh be too heavy for the CF-X. But the only way to know for sure is to try them.
Hi, i read somewhere that airguns/air rifles require scope that can handle both forward/backward shock, is this true? i understand that any spring airgun has more forward shock (forcing the scope backward) than backward shock, mostly bc of the spring direction. rebuttles? thnx
Pellet choice: depends on purpose and range
Pellet speed depends on ballistic coefficient (air drag) and how tightly they fit in the barrel to harness all the compressed air. eg, wadcutters trap air better than pointed noze pellets.
light pellets travel fast but lose stability downrange, 25 yd+
heavy pellets travel slower and have more inflight stability
Punch or penetration depends on speed when it reaches the target and head shape.
For the gamo 1000 fps airgun series:
they tend to like medium-weight pellets: ie Gamo Hunter, RWS Superdome, Beeman FTS or Trophy.
Heavy pellets cant gain enough kinetic energy from this powerplant class and the bore length. ie, Beeman Kodiak. They exit with muzzle velo around 950fps +/- 7fps. Test done with laser lines, Gamo Shadow 1000.
Light pellets, in general, exit with 970-980fps (depending on head type). the Gamo PBA pellets brag supersonic speed, but this is only for 10-13 yd, the downside is the sonic boom (more like crack) jolts the pellet and sends it tumbling downrange, NOT good for accuracy. but it’s great for hunting medium game shortrange, less than 25 yards. see the gamo PBA pellet demo, it can take down a bore!
then there’s pellet head type: read here:https://www.beeman.com/ammo/pellets.htm
Yes apring piston guns do recoil in both directions. The forward direction is the hadrest one. The scope goes backward because the airgun goes forward.
Scope makers have caught on to this and most scopes are breaced for it.
so would a leapers 3-9×32 handle this forward shock? lots of scopes dont say regarding this must-have feature.
The 3-9×32 scope has the “TS” symbol on the page so it will hold up to the cfx. I think tom gaylord tested some leapers “TS” scopes (TS=True Strength) on a webley patriot which is basically the hardest recoiling air rifle out there and they all held up to the punishment. These TS scopes are tested hard by leapers in this test http://www.leapers.com/pages/optics/Recoil-Resistance-Tests.swf.
I think Tom Gaylord said the hammers in the test weighed like 11 lbs or something and were dropped from a meter up, and the scope was vibrated for 15 mins. The 3-9X32 will hold up to the cfx’s recoil.
my new .22 cfx royal just arrived.. i have an smk 3-9×40 but have never shot with a scope before, only opensights short range at vermin..can i have some help zeroing? thanx
Was wondering if you could shed some light onto something for me. I don’t have a chronograph, so I’m comparing my Shadow 1000 to my CF-X by means of relative tests…
When I fire identical pellets (CPLs, RWS Superdomes, etc.) into a 2′ x 4′ x 3/4″ sheet of plywood (at distances of 10 ft and 20 yards), the pellets fired from the Shadow are much louder on impact than those fired by the CF-X (a loud “smack” versus a dull “thud” of sorts).
This lead me to believe that the Shadow was shooting them faster, but I then took a phonebook (~800 pages thick) and fired a shot from the Shadow and a shot from the CF-X into opposite corners of the phonebook and examined the depth of any visible page “trauma”. At 10 ft., the shot fired by the CF-X had caused visible damage 150 pages deeper than the Shadow’s shot. At 20 yards, the CF-X’s damage was about 60 or 70 pages deeper.
My question being… any idea why the impact into the plywood sounds considerably louder with the Shadow? I don’t want to spend $100 on a chrono just to set my mind at ease about the performance of my brand new CF-X!
Any insight is appreciated!
Why is a bass drum louder than a snare drum when the snare’s stick move faster? Resonance.
Buy the chronograph. You’ll use it in a thousand ways you cannot imagine right now.
Hey, am considering ordering a cfx for myself over the web, and am unable to actually physically hold one and inspect it.
What I want to know is how does the rotating breech work, i mean when the breech is closed, what fills up the large groove? surely this cant remain hollow space, it will surely waste some of the power.
I cant find any other good close-up pictures of the rotating breech on the internet. Just cant seem to get my head around this issue.
Words of wisdom appreciated, and thanks for this awesome review & blog,
The loading groove is cut on an excentric axis to the bore. It doesn’t align until rotated into the open position. When it’s closed there is a solid wall that prevents the air from passing through, and the air transfer port, which is also cut on an excentric, aligtns with the bore.
Don’t worry – it works.
I finally pulled the triger on that CF-X.
I am just wondering if you guys could find a holding technique for good accuracy.
I have a sandbag and I can get myself a gel bag, but is there a way to simulate the resting by holding the rifle in the hand?
Have you tried holding the gel bag in your hand and resting the rifle on it?
Thanks a lot.
Use a light hold and don’t grasp the stock. Let the rifle move in recoil and hold on target long after the shot has gone off.
I’ve commented a couple of times about lubricating my cfx’s chamber. You said to put a drop of chamber oil
(Crosman RMOIL?) into the transfer port. Where is the transfer port on the CFX? Or should I just put a drop down the barrel?
Drop three drops of chamber oil down the muzzle and stand the rifle on its butt for at least an hour.
Do this every 3,000 shots or so.
Is it true that .22 on this gun is louder than .177 ?
.22s are generally slightly louder than .177s because of their greater air flow. The difference is like the difference in sizes of sparrows.
Do you have in mind any bipods that can work on the CFX? There are 3 in PyramydAir, does any one work with the CFX?
I have read the DIY dipod suggestion, I was just wondering if you have in mind anything else.
Note:I have seen pictures on CFX with bipods on-line
I don’t have a CF-X to try a Dragon Claw bipod on. That’s the only good bipod I know that might work, but I’m concerned that the clamp won’t allw the underlever to close.
So call Pyramyd Air and speak to Gabe. He should be able to check the fit for you.
Thanks I ll send them an email since I don’t live in the USA.
Here’s what I have found: http://airgunhunters.com/images/huntin5/IMAG0007.jpg
It’s probably a bit too far back but it’s ok. I have no idea what bipod it is though…
Also check this out: http://talks.guns.ru/forummessage/25/76639.html
I can’t understand a word, but that’s a real nice tight group he’s got. 7-8 mm at 30 meters!
btw is that a silencer??
That bipod is attached to the stock – not the underlever. I don’t know how they did it, but I guess the gun can still be cocked.
The Russian gun appears to have a silencer.
Thanks once again B.B. 🙂
Is there any chance that the plate on which the scope rings mount actually moves its possition from the rifle?
The grooves are not “molded” into the body of the CFX – like they are on the TX200. There is a “mounting plate” on top of the rifle which is bolted in place.
I know that this “mounting plate” is common in many air rifles. Does that thing move at all after some time? How do I stop it?
Thanks for your time. You are making everyone a better air gunner. Especially young ones like me who are barely over the legal age limit! 🙂
That plate is the recoil stop for the rifle. No, it should never move. The force against it is perpendicular to the screw holding it in place. It is a good. solid stop.
Thanks. I was concerned about that. Thanks for clearing it up.
I just noticed that the CF-X .22 is in stock.
Can anyone tell me if that is better than the Crosman Tac-1 Extreme?
I got my rifle yesterday. Lots of fun right out of the box.
I have some questions on it though.
In the following pictures, there’s a hole and a screw. Which one of the two is for the stop block? One is wider than the other… Can you please explain their use?
Note that the rifle came like that, there was no Gamo stop block on it or anything.
Thanks a lot
You don’t need a stop block if the base has a hole for a vertical pin. The hole to use is the smaller one. The larger one is just a screw access hole. If the stop pin of your mount is too fat for the smaller hole, grind or file it to fit.
Thanks for the info. Now that I think of it, I believe that the screw must be the vertical stop for the mounting plate itself on the rifle.
Tom Gaylord seemed to fit the B-square stop pin in the small hole. I don’t think I ll have a problem fitting it since I ll be getting B-square mounting rings too.
I put accushot high rings on my cfx which have a stop pin in the rear ring. The pin for this ring fit. Just thought I’d let you know. BTW, it seems on the gamo website that the cfx is supposed to come with the gun, I noticed that you said that yours didn’t come with one, neither did mine, I wonder whats up with that.
Sorry I mean the gamo stop block is supposed to come with the gun.
Yeah, I know… strange isn’t it!? Maybe it has something to do with models reaching the US or the EU. I live in the EU and I got no stop block. I heard they are not so good though, and they are only worth $10 so I didn’t make any fuss about that when I bought the CFX.
I have one question on the CFX’s dovetail rail:
It seems that there is a dovetail rail on the rifle, but there is another dovetail rail – a more angular one mounted-bolted on top of it?
What’s the deal with that? Should I just mount the rings on the “angular top rail” or should I remove that and mount the rings on the rounded rail which is “molded” in the rifle?
You can use the pictures I posted a few posts earlier to see what I am talking about. I think you can tell from those…
Yeah I now see what your talking about with the two dovetails. I’m certainly no expert but I believe the round tube is the spring tube which encloses the spring, and cocking parts. It seems that a dovetail shape was cut into this to mount another dovetail onto it. The only reason I can think of for this is to place the scope mounting surface high enough so that when a scope is mounted you can have a hole to put your solid locking device into. If you took off the “upper” dovetail I don’t think there would be any holes for you to put the stop pin in because the spring would be sliding underneath and would catch the stop pin of your mount when you fired the gun which would be bad. But then you see that big screw in the upper dovetail which I imagine anchors the upper dovetail to the spring tube/reciever and wonder how thick the walls of the springtube are for that large screw to be threaded into. Long story short I mounted my leapers 3-9X50 which is a pretty large scope on the upper dovetail and I haven’t had any problems with it moving. Maybe if yor brave you could try taking off the upper dovetail (you only need to take out 3 allen screws) and see whats under it. But I don’t see any advantage to the lower dovetail because that means for a bigger scope you need even higher rings as compared to mounting it to the upper dovetail. Hopefully BB or someone with more knowledge could intervene and answer your question or correct any of my wrong assumptions, but thats what I think.
Hope it helps, Kyle.
Kyle, I don’t think it’s there to allow space for the stop pin.
Rifles like the TX 200 have no problem with space: /article/All_about_scopes_Part_2_February_2005/21/
As you can see the pin goes in OK.
I really don’t have any problem with the extra rail, but it’s weird.
I am getting a leapers 4-16×50 by the way…
Good point about the tx200. Maybe I will take that rail off just to look. Maybe the spring is farther forward in the reciever than I thought they were. Like I’ve said I’m still a novice, but hey if you can mount to the lower dovetail you’ll have a unique cfx because I have never seen one with the top rail off. But theres no problem with the top one either so I guess its up to you.
Let us know if you take it off. I can’t see why they put it there in the first place.
Hopefully BB will post here before any of us try anything we shouldn’t, and tell us the reason that rail is on there.
BB, What do you think about this?
I wouldn’t remove anything the manufacturer put on a gun unless the owner’s manual says to do so.
Thanks that’s perfectly clear.
CAn you please tell me the difference between these two scopes?
I emailed P.A. but for some reason they are not returning emails.
Also, will high rings clear the objective bell, or will I need the ultra high raiser kit?
Thanks a lot.
Can someone help me with this since PA seems to be having a problem answering or receiving emails?
I would really appreciate the help.
Thanks a lot
I don’t know why Pyramyd air isnt answering, maybe your email isnt working or theres wont take any from Europe. Im in New York so I’ll try emailing about the scopes. I have no idea about the differences between the scopes. I will relay you any replies if they email me back through this blog section.
I just received an email back about the difference between the two 4-16X50 scopes. Apparently the cheaper one is older version and does not come with the lockable turret, while the newer and more expensive scope does come with the lockable turrets. It came with my 3-9X50 and its a nice feature. Heres what Sharon said in her email to me.
Thank you for contacting us. The first scope is the older version of the 2nd scope, which is an upgraded version. The second one offers a zero locking resetting knobs. This is an unbelievable feature. Basically, you can focus your scope in at a setting, and put the gun down with the scope and it stays sighted in. In addition, lets say you sight in your scope at 25 yds. with lets say a 15.8 grain pellet, then resight your scope in for a 12.4 grain pellet at 30 yds you can click forward 3 times and back twice, etc to get back to where your scope was sighted in. I know this sounds confusing, it is hard to explain via email. I apologize for the confusion. If you need further explanation on this or would like to place an order, please call me directly at 888-262-4867 ext 228.
Hope it helps, Kyle.
Just wondering if anyone had any better luck with bipods than what I provided above (the PVC and soap plastic clips). I don’t think any of the new air rifle specific bipods will work unless they rise less than about 1/16th of an inch above the tube they attach to, otherwise the underlever will not close. I am interested in using the two small gaps between the stock and the mechanism of the gun which are located just in front of the mainspring housing (ie where the mainspring tube meets the barrel) to mount two separate bipod arms, one on each side obviously. That way there would be no interferance with the underlever.
I’m attempting to construct one like I described and it is more difficult than I had thought, especially because I want to avoid doing anything permanent to my stock Any comments are welcome.
I was thinking of somehow trying to mount a bi pod to the cocking linkages of my cfx. If you pull the underlever towards you, you will see that small rectangular flat piece of metal near the stock on the underside of the gun. Its hard to explain where it is but I think you know what im talking about. Anyways I was thinking of somehow taking that piece out, drilling a few holes in it and and the attaching a block of wood to that. Then you could clamp a clamp on bi pod to that. I don’t know if there’s enough room for the bi pod without having it in front of me. But its some thoughts.
I just bought a Gamo .177 cfx that cvame with a Gamo scope and Raptor gold pellets. I also bought a can of Premier Crosman ‘hollow points’. I attached the Gamo scope and set up a paper target at a distance of 40 walking steps. Approx. 33 meters? I shot 4 very slow and carefull shots with my gun resting on a rolled up tarp on the hood of my truck using the Premier hollow points. I was astounded! The 4 shot group would fit on my little finger nail with 3 of the pellet hols touching! HOWEVER, my happy astonisment didn’t last long once I tried to adjust the scope for bulls eyes. Now my shots are hitting about a 1 1/2″ to 2″ group. I bought the gun to kill chipmunks that are messing with my property. I’m lucky if I can hit one chipmunk out of every dozen shots at 40 steps. I’m not very happy about this. What can I do to get good groups?
Rest the gun on the flat of your open palm, just in front of the triggerguard. It should feel very muzzle-heavy. Do not touch the side of the stock with your fingertips. Hold the rest of the rifle as lightly as you can, so the gun can move as much as it wants to when it fires.
Continue to hold on target for one full second after the gun fires.
And don’t use those horrid Raptor pellets! The Crosman hollowpoints should be very good.
if I were you, I would get some RWS superdome pellets. THey’re what I use for everything. Relatively inexpensive (8.50? for 500) and they are a great match for the cf-x. I use them for hunting even with some success: multiple rats, a groundhog( yes BB I was able to get it with my .177), as well as some pidgeons. I would definitely get rid of those supersonic raptor things before you get frustrated with the bad results.
Congratulations on joing the cf-x club! I’m sure you will be happy with it.
To B.B. and Kayak, I just got back from trying to shoot the cfx better. I tightened the scope mounts better and tried the open palm shooting style. I believe that is a better way to shoot, but i’m still frustrated and am thinking this gun was a mistake to buy.
Maybe it is the scope causing the trouble. The shots were high and right. So I adjusted for lower and left. Still hitting high and right. More low and left adjustment. Still hitting high and right. More adjusting low/left and the gun seems on pretty good. Then shots start hitting all over the paper again.
Under controlled and calm conditions using a steady rest for the gun, I’m as good a shot as the next guy pretty much. I should be hitting bulls eyes and right around it. (I’m a Viet Nam vet and I tied another shooter for first place in our battalion qualifying with the M16 back in 1969) I’m no Spring chicken but my eyesight is still good. I practice propper breathing technique while slowly sweezing off a shot and keeping the crosshairs on the bull.
I’ll try RWS Super Dome pellets next. I really want to believe in this Gamo cfx .177. I’ll keep trying. “Whatever it takes”. If that means another scope or a custom trigger installation. Ed
I can read your problem through your words! You are trying too hard! And that is what is causing the inaccuracy.
The next time you shoot, align your sights then close your eyes. Take a deep breath and try to totally relax your body. When you open your eyes, your sights will be pointed at where the pellet is going.
To solve the problem, take that deep breath BEFORE you aim. Let half of it out as you align the sights and relax at the same time.
At first the gun will try to pull itself off target, which is what it is doing right now. Soon, though, you will develop the correct shooting technique and you will be able to keep the sights on target while relaxed.
Squeeze off the shot so you have no idea of when it will release.
Do this five times in a row and I bet you will see a dramatic improvement. I will blog this answer in much greater detail this coming week.
Just as a side note to what BB is saying, just relax with it. I shoot my cf-x with horrible form (I’ll be honest) I rest it directly on the wooden railing to my deck most of the time, and I am still able to his a dime out to about 25 yards. I think you should definitely try a bunch of different pellets. I like the RWS Superdome, but you might find one that works better for you so don’t just take my word for it. And one more thing: double check that your new scope adjusts the way you think it does. I dont mean to belittle you by any means so please dont take it that way, I’ve done it a million times, but double check that the adjustment knobs change the projectivle strike location, and not the corsshairs. (IE. they are opposite directions) That may account for your continued inability to zero.
All in all, dont worry, we’ll work this out. The cf-x really is a great gun once you get it going straight.
Sorry for the poor spelling, I wrote that fast, and didn’t proof read until I had already posted it.
Dave, you said….And one more thing: double check that your new scope adjusts the way you think it does. I dont mean to belittle you by any means so please dont take it that way, I’ve done it a million times, but double check that the adjustment knobs change the projectivle strike location, and not the corsshairs. (IE. they are opposite directions) That may account for your continued inability to zero.
Truth is, I don’t know what you mean by the above info. I hope my scope is on my gun the right way. The scope has a pin sticking down and I put that pin in a hole on top of the guns scope mount. I then tightened all the screws with the included wrenches.
B.B., My breathing and trigger pull is as you described. Maybe I’ll have time to shoot at the range tomorrow and see how it goes.
Sorry to be vague. I mean the recticle adjustment knobs. Normally, they have a direction indicator on them (an arrow pointing clockwise or counterclockwise and a direction, up for example). What I was suggesting is that that direction could indicate the direction that the projectile impact site moves on the target when you spin it that way, or it could indicate the direction that the lines inside the scope move. These directions are opposite so when your pellet kept hitting high right, and you adjusted low and left, you may have been moving the lines (crosshairs) on your scope low and left, which would just cause the pellets to hit further high and right.
I hope I was able to clear that up.
Dave, Now I getcha. What I was getting at was that after about 3 or 4 tries at low/left adjustment, the shots fially hit around the black and a few in the black. The Gamo seems to be a very simple and basic scope. Not bells or whistles. I seem to have the scope sighted in as I have finally put a few pellets through the black. But some of the shots go really wild to. It’s wierd. I’m new to pellet guns and have been reading various internet sights about springers. I’ve only put maybe 200 some shots out the barrel so maybe I have a way to go before the CFX mellows out. The barrel, the trigger, the spring chamber, etc etc. On the brite side, I just did a nice loose gripped shot that made a very clean kill on a chipmunk. The gray squirrel 2 feet away from the chippy barely took notice and just kept eating. The chippies are the only thing I shoot.
thanks B.B. and Dave PS: The next time I go by Gander Mountain I’ll see what other pellets they sell. Not sure if they have RWS super domes but they do have various Premier by Crosman. ….or I’ll order on line. This is fun.
I haven’t had any luck with any of the crosman pellets. The premiers in the tin are a little more accurate compared to the cheaper crosman pellets. From what I’ve read on this site premiers from the cardboard box are better than the crosman premiers in the tin. I’ve also had good results from gamo match pellets. I can shoot one hole groups about 3/8″ in diameter at 20 yards, I’m sure with some trigger time you can do the same. Just thought I would share my experiences.
Happy 4th, Kyle.
The accuracy problems were with Ed, not myself. You would have realized this had you read the previous comments. I am quite happy with my “trigger time” (I bought the gun just after it came out), pellet choice, and accuracy, which exceeds your own. Maybe you should think before you speak, as the old adage goes.
Just sharing MY experiences.
B.B., you said:
The next time you shoot, align your sights then close your eyes. Take a deep breath and try to totally relax your body. When you open your eyes, your sights will be pointed at where the pellet is going.
I have tried that. When I open my eyes the crosshairs are high and to the right. That is so revealing. So I guess I’m thinking I have good shooting form but not really.
Thanks for that tip. Ed
I accidentally mixed you and Ed up. I was not trying to brag or make a bad comment about your shooting. And I DID read the other comments before yours. I meant to comment Ed and try to help someone by pointing out which pellets work well or not. I have no idea why you freaked out because you never even said anything about your shooting so what would I have to go off of for my last comment to you. Maybe YOU should think before you blow up over a blog comment that wasn’t even offensive in the first place.
hi guys, first sorry for my bad english im from portugal.
I really like this rifle i probably will buy it but i really want to know if the spring really breaks at about 2000 rounds (i read that at a portuguese forum) I want a reliable rifle i dont want to allways take it back to reapir. The shadow 1000 is more durable than the cfx? i really appreciate if you guys answer to my questions.
I haven’t heard that one! So the spring is supposed to break?
Would a Shadow spring be any better?
They say that a gamo mainspring break at about 2000 rounds in cfx i just want to know if you guys just experienced that on your gamos, is that true?
thanks BB for the quick reply.
My cfx is at about 2800 rounds and the mainspring is fine.
Hi, I am new to air rifles and would like to know whether the Gamo CFX is accurate enough for target shootind and if it is fairly consistant.
Thanks a lot for all your trouble! Now I can finally order! Thanks a lot, I appreciate it a lot.
Thanks for those B-square Adjustable articles too!
As long as you are referring to informal target shooting, the CF-X will be fine. It’s no Olympic 10-meter gun, but neither are any of the other spring piston pellet guns.
It is very consistent.
I’m looking to buy a new air rifle that’s accurate and powerful for target shooting and pest control. Is the Gamo CFX a good choice? Are the sights good or is a scope recomended. I’m mainly looking for a gun that’s good to practice my accuracy with. Any input is much appreciated.
The CF-X is a wonderful gun. I recommend that you start with open sights and then go to a scope later. That way, you’ll be familiar with the rifle when the scope gets installed.
Have you used the scope in the CF-X combo kit? If so is it a sufficient scope or do you recomend buying a different one? Also, I’ve been reading various articles and sounds like crosman premier light pellets are the best. Would you agree or are there better ones to use with the CF-X?
No, I haven’t tried the kit but I assume the scope will be okay. I would suggest the 2-7 scope, if possible.
The Leapers that I used is probably better, but why not try the combo first? It will work.
I didn’t have the gun a long time so Premier lites were the best pellet I saw. You might read what others are using though, because if I recall correctly, some like the Gamo and RWS domed pellets, as well.
I would like to know youropinion towards the gamo vipermax and the gamo cfx. which is better for accuracy and which is better quality?
Well, both guns are made by Gamo, so the quality is going to be the same.
I like the CF-X a lot as an inexpensive spring piston rifle that is easier to shoot than a breakbarrel. However, my recent testing of the RWS Diana 34 Panther shows me a breakbarrel can be even more accurate.
As for the ViperMax, that’s an airgun offered in the UK. It appears to be the same as the Viper, which is sold in the U.S. Of course the power is limited to the UK legal limit of 12 foot-pounds. It should be a very nice air rifle. I would still opt for the CF-X, however.
Thanks B.B. Pellitier,
What is the big fuss over sinthetic stocks? Is there any big difference between sinthetic and wooden stock?
Synthetic stocks don’t warp and swell in the presence of moisture. They are more stable and therefore tend to be more accurate – or perhaps less of an influence on the accuracy of the gunm.
Recently, my friend and I both purchased Gamo rifles. I had been impressed with my friend’s Shadow1000, and i was tired of pumping my old bb gun, so I got a Gamo Big Cat, my friend, for whatever reason, decided to buy the CFX. The other day, we were shooting, and he found it hilarious that the Big Cat did not have any open sights, and frequently commented on it. After we had been shooting for a bit, he noticed that his shots were starting to miss by quite a lot at about 50 feet. After some inspection of his sights, he noticed that the bit of plastic on the muzzle of the CFX had become loose and was turning, causing him to miss all of his shots. He tried tightening the screw at on the plastic bit, but it was still loose. Is this a problem you have encountered before, or is it just karma? Also, how would you recommend fixing this?
I’m sure that plastic piece is bonded on, so it will have to be reglued. If your friend doesn’t want to do the job, Gamo USA should be willing to do it.
Do spring rifles ever loose accuracy after their springs getting weak? If they do can you replace the spring?
Accuracy doesn’t change. They just lose power. Yes, the springs can be replaced. I did a 13-part blog on that very process:
I have posted before and am a new cfx shooter/first pellet gun ever. I haven’t been able to really get down to business shooting this .177 but I will shortly as I have joined a range. I will post in the future about my experience at the range where I don’t have to put up with some ‘girly man’ driving buy telling me I shouldn’t be shooting out here in the woods on a gas line where I have safely set up saftey considerations. The last thing I need to do is hurt someone. Safety is job #1.
Sorry to blow up, I was having a rough day and completely overreacted to a simple typo. I’m very sorry to have acted to stupidly.
How do you clean airguns and airgun barrels? And do barrels ever wereout from shooting them?
Airgun barrels are made from soft steel and will wear out from improper cleaning.
Read this blog for ther correct cleaning techniques.
What are the best pellots to use for the Gamo CFX?
What cleaning oil can you use for the outside of the barrel and the inside of the barrel?
Try Crosman Premier 7.9-grains (you didn’t mention caliber so I imagine a .177?) and light JSB domes. Some are getting good results from RWS Superdomes, too.
Don’t oil the barrel or clean it or anything else. Just shoot the gun.
Wipe the outside with a silicone cloth.
With the gamo CFX what small game can you hunt and from how far away?
Squirrels to 30 yards. Rabbits and crows to 40. Small birds other than crows to 50. All distances are for .22. Subtract 5 yards for a .177.
I have heard that the copy of the CFX but made by ares is also a good air rifle. Is there a big difference other than price?
I’m sorry but you know something I don’t. I haven’t heard of this rifle, so I have zero information about it.
Is the ares a good make of air rifle?
Your are talking about an airsoft copy of a firearm called ARES. I don’t know who makes the airsoft copy you are looking at, so it is impossible for me to comment.
I would like to start doing target shooting and would like to know whether you have any air rifles you would suggest that are accurate and can still be used for hunting(preferably a spring air rifle)
Target shooting with airguns implies 10-meter targets. The guns made for that sport are too weak to hunt with.
If you mean informal target shooiting, almost any sporting rifle will be fine.
The TX 200 is a fine breakbarrel spring rifle. Perfect for both long range informal target shooting and hunting.
I assume you don’t mean 10-meter targets? Those guns are too weak to hunt with.
I recommend the Air Arms TX200 as a fine spring rifle that’s good for both long-range targets and for hunting.
I have read all of the posts concerning the Gamo C-FX and think that is the gun for me. I am still somewhat confused about the scoping issue. I would like a scope with AO and Parallax adjustment down to 3 meters and I would like see-through rings so that in a pinch (or for an extremely short shot) I can peep through to the fiber optic hard sights. Do you have a recommendation for a combination like this for the C-FX that will mount, stay mounted, and allow easy pellet loading while providing adequate eye relief for a full sight picture? I know that’s a lot to ask but it’s what I’m shooting for.
BTW – I was almost convinced that the Diana Panther 34 was the gun I was after until you had so many comments about its aggravating qualities – flimsy front sight, barrel droop so severe that it is difficult to mount and sight in a scope, etc. With all of the problems that you pointed out for the Diana what are the overwhelming good features that led you to recommend it so highly anyway?
Between the two guns C-FX and Panther 34 which would you buy? Why? I am an experienced shooter and hunter with a variety of powder driven guns but this is my first adventure into the world of high velocity air.
Last question: For varmints and backyard target shooting (I have an acre to work with) would you go with .22 or .177 now that both are available in both guns?
Thanks for the amazing blog!
First, let me steer you away from “see-through” scope mounts. That was a marketing ploy to explain why the scope mounts had holes in them (for lightening purposes). Nobody ever uses see-through mounts successfully.
Choosing between these two rifles is tough. Choose the CF-X for a better scopoe-mounting proposition. Choose the Diana for better accuracy and a much easier loading solution (the CF-X is hard to load).
Both are great air rifles that I think you will be happy with.
If you want to shoot at very close range, get a laser and mount it on your gun. Sight it for 10-20 feet and use the scope for all else. The Bug Buster scope is wonderful, but if you sight for 3 yards, you will be off at all other distances. TThat’s not good for pest control.
Thanks for the quick reply. Is the Diana combo a good buy? Is there a good scope and mount solution for the barrel droop problem for the Diana.
You want to use a B-Square 17101 or 17130 one-piece mount. One is 30mm and the other is one inch.
Hang the vertical scope stop pin in front of the scope rail on the gun and it will not move. Select a normal-sized scope with not more than a 40mm objective. Properly adjusted, the B-Square adjustable mount will fix the barrel droop problem completely. Start out with two turns of elevation on the rear ring and 1/2 turn on the front.
I can’t tell what the combo is, but it doesn’t look like what I am describing.
Thanks again. This stuff can be really hard to match up well when you are a beginner and there is so much out there. Now I think I know what to do with either gun and it’s time for the hard choice. I wish you could help with that but you can’t. I’ll let you know how it turns out. Do you have any idea what a special thing you’re doing with this blog? I hope you know you are appreciated. BTW the scope in the combo is the RWS 350. I have no idea who actually makes it.
I don’t know who makes the RWS 350 scope, either. Companies like Beeman and RWS change their contracts whenever it suits them, but they retain the model names and numbers.
It’s like a Kenmore washer. You don’t know who got the contract so you don’t know what quality it is. Five or ten years from now it will be somebody else.
hi, im quite new to airgunning. I have a question, i plan to buy scopemount for my cfx, what’s the rite one? weaver? dovetail, 11mm etc? is there an article in here that clarifies the types of mounts?
You need 11mm dovetail scope mounts. Weaver dovetails (they ALL have dovetails) are generally too large for airguns. The exceptions are airsoft guns and any guns with Picatinney rails.
scope mount question:
thank you B.B., one more thing, does it matter if i get 3/8″ or 11mm mounts? they’re almost the same.
3/8 mounts are 9.5mm. So are many 11mm mounts, as it turns out. On many airguns, 3/8 mountts will work.
The DANGER, and it is a reral one, is that 3/8 mounts are made for cheap .22s, and, as such, they tend to be cheaply made. Some of them do not have what it takes to stand up to a recoilling airgun.
If you buy the mounts from a maker who also makes airguns mounts, like Leapers, they will be fine. If you buy them at a gun show or Wal-Mart, you’re on your own.
I have bought the gamo cfx and would like to know whether the gamo pro magnum .177 7.9 grain pellets are good for it.
I’ve never tested that combination, but Gamo is a good pellet maker. There’s no reason why it shouldn’t work.
B.B. I read some post above and it seems as if you are saying the rws 34 panther is more accurate than the cfx. So doesnt that mean its a better gun since it probably is better quality considering its a german diana and its cheaper! But than again isnt the cfx easier to shoot and less hold sensitve. Just wondering in everybodies opinion what the better gun is? Thanks B.B. everyone!
You read my answer correctly.
BB, you seem to prefer CP light 7.9g (in carboard box 1250 ct) over most others for springers. But i notice that this pellet is horribly molded (in my opinion) because i could see the half line running down the pellet bc it is molded together thru two halves. Wouldn’t this leftover line molding affect trajectory? On the other hand the RWS superdome and JSB exact are VERY fine pellet, as if they were CNC machined. Also i think they put some coating on these pellets (like phosphate or some powder) so they are much cleaner than the CP light. thnx
I use the RWS superdome, and I agree, they are awesome pellets. They work really well in the cf-x too.
By “molded” I presume you mean cast? Crosman Premiers are cold-swaged on machines and what you see is where the die comes together. They do work well in a lot of spring guns, but not in all of them. I only test pellets by how well they perform downrange. Korean pellets taught me that looks mean very little.
As far as I know, Premiers use a graphite coating.
In the 1990s, Premiers lead the world for field target, but the JSBs and in some guns the Kodiaks/Baracudas are challenging them. I would say JSBs are in the top spot for field target today.
Hey B.B We had a conversation back on August 9th. I picked up my Diana 34 Panther yesterday and sprayed pellets all over my back yard backstop. Last night I read your tips on technique and this afternoon shot an open sight 10 shot group at 10 meters off an Outer’s Varminter Rest that you could completely hide with a dime. After that verification I shot a freehand group from rest that you could cover 8 of 10 with a quarter and I know what was wrong with the two outliers (me). Thanks again for the great advice on the guns and on how to shoot these beasts. I’m going to stay with open sights until my technique is solid and then I’ll be back for help with dialing in the scope ad shooting longer distances.
Thanks for that report. It’s more important to hear from new owners who had to be coaxed a little than from shooters who knew exactly what they wanted.
Hi all, i think i have a problem with my CFX. If anyone has an idea to fix it please help. My loading port/chamber cannot fully open when it is in full open position. it’s not overturned or underturned, I didn’t do anything to it, it was like that out of the box. When it’s fully slided left, the opening looks like a horizontal oval (or football). Looks like the aluminum block is about 1mm higher than it should be and so it doesn’t line up with the bore. if i force the pellet in, the bottom of the skirt will bend and i can only do so with a round stick the size of pellet.
I plan on taking out the block and filing away the bottom of the groove, but i dont know if this is the best thing to do.
Have talked to Gamo about this? I would think they should replace the gun if its under warranty.
Don’t take your gun apart until you exhaust all other options. Is it under warranty? Can the manufacturer help you in any way?
And of course you are only opening the breech when the gun is cocked, right?
Actually, the gun isn’t new, i got it from a classified ad, i liked it cuase it was customized with Charliedatuna’s trigger. i think this was the reseason the guy sold it to me, lol. But it’s ok, i think it’s fixable, i’ll contact gamo first b4 trying anything myself. thnx.
also, i knew i was supposed to cock it first b4 turning the breach block. But once i forgot to close it after i loaded a pellet, i squeezed the trigger and it “poofed” (like someone in here said earlier). So, i back up BB’s statement that the seal is excellent.
When you contact Gamo, make certain they WILL NOT remove that custom trigger you have. Many manufacturers would do so for liability reasons.
Thnx BB, i couldn’t get Gamo to fix it for me bc the warranty isn’t transferable, but they were willing to fix it for at an hourly rate plus shipping to and fro. So i just found help instruction from Rich in Mich and fixed it myself. I pried out the rotating lever on the block, pushed the loading block back a 3/8in, and used a dremmel to enlarge the groove. Now the loading is sweet like it should. i could punch a near single hole at 10yd and .8in at 30yd using RWS superdome with a bench rest.
It’s always difficult to rate the handiness of someone over the internet, but it sounds like you did the right thing.
thnx, i got help from Rich or else i’d prolly do the hard way. I also found two tricks to load the pellet more easily. First is to leave the gun at 40-45 degrees,then load. at this angle, the skirt is below the head so it is harder for the pellet to flip over, since it will have to flip “up”.
Another trick is to NOT turn the loading block fully left, then place the pellet in. This way, if it flips, you can still re-align it since it’s still outside. When it is head first tail behind, turn the block fully left, the groove align with bore, then you can use your index finger’s nail to push it in. (almost like flicking it in).
I bought the gamo cfx and i would like to know how you clean the barrel without loading it, because you can only open the breech when it is loaded. And is there a way to unload the gun without shooting it. And what would the best all round pellets be for the gamo cfx?
I was never successful in cleaning it without loading it bc the block can’t turn unless you cock the rifle.
I do know from experience that it loves RWS superdome and JSB exact light. Crossman premiers works but fingers get dirty handling them. I know one guy who can only shoot well with Crossman Premiers Hollow points, but i can’t. And all round pellet for me is the domed type because they have the best accuracy and punch short and long range. This also goes for my Gamo Shadow 1000. It’s because the domed head is more aerodynamic and less affected in deviation, which is why pointed heads suck.
First of all, you don’t need to clean your rifle unless accuracy falls off. Then it has to be cleaned from the muzzle, but the CF-X is particularly difficult to clean.
What hieu said is almost correct. There is a way to rotate the rotary breechblock without cocking the rifle. Just pull down on the cocking lever enough to take the pressure off the breech; then it can be rotated open without cocking the rifle.
However – no cleaning until accuracy goes!
I have been researching for an accurate, powerful air gun in the $200 price range and considered the Gamo Shadow 1000, but decided to get the CF-X because it is not as sensitive to how it is held, and because of it’s increased accuracy due to it being a fixed barrel. I bought the Gamo CF-X a couple days ago and it should get here by wednesday. I have a Leapers 3-9X50 AO Mil-Dot Red/Green Illumination Scope at home that I was thinking about using for it. This is my question: Will this scope mount (B-Square 17101 Interlock AA 1-Pc Mount w/1″ Rings, 9.5-13mm Dovetail) work well with this scope and air gun? For example, do the stop pins work well to keep the scope from moving, will I need a 5mm or 10mm Riser Post because the scope has a 50mm objective lens, etc.
-Also, is it confusing to adjust the mount for elevation/windage? But I’m sure it will come with a manual to explain all that.
-What pellets do you recommend for the greatest accuracy? I’m guessing the 7.9 grain Crosman Premiers and the JSB Diabolo Exacts, which you recommended for the Shadow 1000.
-One more question. Is the CF-X capable of hitting a coke can from 100 yards away?
So many questions! Rear the posting and comments for the best pellets.
You should select the mounts before the scope. The straight line of the spring tube means some mounts will be too low with a 50mm scope objective. The mounts you have selected are probably okay, but where will the objective bell be in relation to the rotary breech? They only way to know is to try them. There are tens of thousands of possible scope, mount and rifle combinations, so nobody has tried them all. I think your rings will give you just enough height, and I think you are okay with the length of the scope, but trial will prove if I’m correct..
It is EXTREMELY difficult to mount a scope using one-piece mounts on a rifle that has a built-in scope stop like the Gamos AND a front length limitation (the rotary breech). That’s why I used two-piece rings and a compact scope. Only use one-piece mounts where there are no other solutions. Also, since two-piece rings clamp as tight as one-piece mounts, there is no advantage to one-piece in most situations.
As for adjusting the mounts, the instructions are not easy to follow. Read this three-part report for more detailed instructions:
Wow, thanks for the fast reply. I’m sorry for all the questions, it’s just that I have been thinking about everything I wanted to know before I started posting.
So instead of the once piece mount, I guess I will be getting these (Gamo 1″ Rings, High, 3/8″ & 11mm Dovetails, See-Thru). They seem much easier to use and give me plenty of room with my huge objective lens. Somewhere, I heard someone say it was best to get a 1-piece mount for this air gun, but they probably didn’t know what they were talking about.
I will be reading the previous posts as you have said, which probably would have answered most of my questions.
BB, my scope mounts seem to fail at clamping down my scope. I have a Nikko Stirling 4-12×42, it is heavy so this may be why it can’t stay still. The gun is CFX. The mounts dont move, only the tube. These mounts didn’t come with cushion tape so i had to use film negatives, after failed attempt at using scotch tape (was real messy with the goo). What should i use instead?
There is a product RV’ers use to keep things from slipping but I think it’s too thick for this. I would check at a fabric store to see if they have anything.
Hey. I just purchased a CFX in .22 and was wondering about pellet choice. I got H&N Diabolo Sport (13.74gr) and am waiting to see how they do since they were in the middle of the weight range. What would you recommend as far as weight and type (pointed, flat, etc) for the best accuracy?
I prefer domed pellets for the best accuracy in a sporting rifle like the XF-X. Anything JSB makes is good, Beeman Kodiaks are good, as are Crosman Premiers. The RWS line is sometimes very good in Spanish rifles, as are the Gamo spporting (non wadcutter) pellets.
hi BB, i own several GAMO rifles, fav is my tuned CFX, i can shoot (on best days) 3/4″ groups at 30 yards. Im looking to add to my collection a .22, wood stock, accurate, and under $300 rifle. Is there one? I looked at pyramyd’s variety but too many i just cant decide.
-more accurate than my cfx
-.22 or .177+.22 combo
-has sight rail
-underlever preferred but break barrel ok as long as more accurate than cfx
-under $300 (im still a 2-yr beginner)
could you please name a few? i’ll do the final research. I saw the Hammerli X2 at pyramyd, it comes with interchangeable .177 and .22 barrels but do you recommend this? accuracy might get hurt.
I recommend the BAM B40. I’ve blogged it in both.177 and .22 and it meets all your requirements.
thank you bb, i read all 6 parts of your review on this B40 and altho i feel the gun has merit, i decided not to gamble with Chinese’s inconsistency. One user-review on this rifle revealed poor quality stock (all dented up). Looks like I have to up my price limit for a decent gun. thnx again, now back to more searching i go…
I am looking to buy a CFX soon. A friend of mine has one and it looks like the best for that price range minus the fact that i don’t like the scope that much. I was looking at a better one for a decent price, would the Rex 3-9×40 be ok on the CFX? https://www.pyramydair.com/product/rex-3-9×40-1-4-moa-duplex-reticle-scope-stop-11mm-rings?a=1772
It has 11mm dovetail rings included with it, seems to be better than what comes with the CFX. If anyone has any better scope options in that price range that would be greatly appreciated.
Also, I was looking into a laser/light attachment b/c it would be much better if i could hunt at night for pests around the house…anybody tried this out and do you think it would work on that scope?
Thanks for your help,
Has anyone ran a cfx with around 3000 shots through a Chronograph. Im just interested to see how fast Crosman Premier lights (7.9 grains) are going with a “broken in” cfx.
the game cfx is a great gun
mine is .177 cal
i mounted a Leapers 3-9x32mm Range Estimating A.O. Full Size Scope useing a Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/1″
at 30 yards useing beeman kodiac match 10.6 gr pellets
sent 10 shots inside of a 1 inch
most quality pellets work well in this gun lite and heavy
no one pellet is best
beeman silver arrow
basicly total overkill
beeman crow magnum for birds & rats
dont use gamo raptors
i have no problems with trigger
i know how to shoot
want to buy gamo cfx?
just get the one that doesn’t come with scope, then buy your own. Some sites have it bone stock. some try to sweeten the deal with scope combo but often the scope is not favored. cheapest i could find is 175+SH (.177 cal). if you do hunting, it’s better to get .22 since .177 inhumanely over shoots the animal, it runs off or forever wounded.
Yes, that Rex scope would go well with a CF-X.
B.B. What is wrong with the scope that comes with the Gamo CFX .177? It has Gamo on it. I am new to shooting pellet guns and basically bought my CFX because when I was looking at pellet guns some other guy said the CFX is the one to get. He bought one and I followed suit. I had no idea there was all this “pellet gun” stuff going on in the world. Anyway, back to my question. Will this Gamo scope not sight in well? Do the cross hairs move around? Will it go bad after a while? I don’t understand why this scope isn’t ‘ok’ as compared to a Rex 3-9×40 for example or the one above in the picture. Ed
The scope that comes with the CF-X is fine. It probably doesn’t have all the features of the other scopes people are comparing it to, but it still works, doesn’t it? That’s all you need.
B.B. Yep this Gamo scope works. Haven’t seen a chipmonk around here for a while. They were getting so bold! I still haven’t been able to get to the range and really settle in with this CFX and try open sights, various pellets, hold technique etc. I ordered a new trigger for it from charliedatuna as I don’t like this stock trigger and am too impatient to break it in with a lot of shooting -that is hard to find time for. Ed
Ed, the scope is NOT bad, but it isn’t the “favored” choice because:
1-it’s only 4X, when you shoot targets 9-12x is preffered, trust me, if you plan to shoot .5in grouping at 30yd you’ll need 12x.
2-the scope doesn’t have AO (adjustable objective lens) so you’ll have parallax problem at any range outside it’s factory set range (ussually 100yds). This means you WONT get both your reticule and image/target clear at the same time.
3-the scope you see on top this pages IS 3-12X, 3-7X is good for hunting, beyond that is ideal for targets. and the AO feature will let you guess range (not 100% but better than nothing). trust me again, knowing your range is crucial at shooting animal. go here to learn more: http://www.network54.com/Forum/479035/
they talk alot about this CFX
Thanks for the scope info and web site. I didn’t understand scope stuff. For now I’ll use the Gamo scope as my real use of the .177 is to rid my yard of chippies. About a 35′ shot to what I hope is the safest spot in my residential yard. Thanks again, Ed
oops, I mean I didn’t understand scope information before I read your post. Your post cleared things up for me. I was wondering what that parralax stuff was, now I know, thanks again, Ed
was just shooting at 70 yards
testing accuracy at a range with the cfx .177 cal
lite inconsistant brezze
5 shot group w/beeman kodiak match
4 inch group w/inconsistant drop
5 shot group w/beeman silver arrow
1.5 inch group w/consistant drop
wanted to test crosman ultra magnums but i couldnt find the tin
also wanted to test logan penetrators but olny had 3 on hand
i dont use lite pellets because they some times cause piston slam
heavy pellets cut down on gun vibration
some one asked if the cfx could hit a coke can at a 100 yard
i’m going to try
finding some one at a 100 yards holding a coke can sounds hard
i have been reading and there are a lot of questions about scopes
Leapers 3-9x32mm Range Estimating A.O. Full Size Scope
will work fine
cheap and effective
read heavy pellets damage your gun
looked for proof and found none
but i did find that LITE pellets may leave the barrel before the piston is seated all the way foward
once the pellet leaves the barrel there is no resistance and the piston slams foward reduseing the life of the gun
Hi Guys Got my CFX Yesterday Got some gamo hunters with it also put a Nikko stirling 3-9×42 on removed the extra mounting Block and drilled and tapped that stop screw in to the nikko mount
20 shots to zero a 10 M with gamo Hunters 1 cm 8 shot other 2 went wide my fault but Happy as soon as i put the caps back and thighten the windage and elevation screwshit the top of the cap and move POI for the scope
Other wise verry happy if you are in to minds get yourself a cfx
Thanks to the contributers of this site and B.B.who runs it.
1. Gamo .177 CFX with, I believe, a 4X scope that came with it.
2. Sunny but windy day at the range.
3.Pellets tested: Crosman Hollow Points, Gamo Match Pellets flat face, RWS Super Dome.
4. Loading with Gamo Match and RWS Super Dome pretty easy with gun pointed up. Final push with finger nail and you could feel the pellet “click” into place and not slide back out. Loading with Crosman HP was more difficult as the pellet wants to flip over backwards. Easier to load them with barrel pointed down as they ‘do not click into place’ and will fall out if barrel is up.
5. At about 50 feet dime and quarter groups with the Gamo Match and RSW. Crosman HP groups unaceptable.
6. At about 100 feet no accetable groups with any of the pellets.
Sorry to be vague about the disances. I was shooting at the closest backstop and the 2nd backstop beyond it. First experience with an actual shooting range and don’t know the distnaces.
7. I have a charliedatuna trigger on the gun. For some season that niether he nor I can figure out via email…the safety doesn’t work. But the trigger is so smooth I’m keeping it. Ed
PS: to last post by me the Crosman HP loaded easiest with barrel pointed up as that helped with it not to flip over, but to seat and close the door the gun needed to be pointed down. Ed
Thanks for the report.
Ed again. I measured the distance from my bedroom window to the place in the yard I shoot chipmonks. It is 30 yards. I’m new to shooting pellet guns and have used Crosman Hollow Points this Summer on the chipmonks, getting one in about every 5 shots. Not good. From my range experience(read above)with recently purchased Gamo Match and RWS Super Domes were much better than the Crosman HP at the range. 2 days ago a chippy showed up. I aimed slightly low and kicked up dirt right under it. Chipmonk came back yesterday morning. Put cross hairs right on it this time. Clean kill. Crow food. I believe Gamo Match or RWS SD’s are the paellet for my gun. Haven’t tried JSB Exacts or Beeman Kodiaks yet. Anyway, 30 yards is what I’ve been shooting at these little property damagers.
Do you know ultraoptec scopes? How does the quality compare? I have one mounted on my CFX. Still battling to get proper groups with it. I am currently shooting Gamo Pro Magnums off some sandbags.
I can’t even FIND that scope mentioned on the internet!
Never heard of it.
This post is to make my above posts clearer.
Yep, I like my Gamo .177 CFX. Even though I bought it by accident, I have no regret. I am pretty lousy at judging distances. I was shooting at 25 yards and 50 yards at the shooting range.(it was windy) Not 50′ and 100′. The chipmonks are at 30 yards plus 1′ (91′)from my window. Not 35′. adios, Ed
I’m actually in the research phase of my next air rifle purchase, and plan on making my purchase during the first week of november when my bonus kicks in. At this time i’m torn between two models… the Gamo CFX described in this blog, with a centerpoint 3-9 x 40mm scope, or the Gamo Hunter elite, with stock scope. The gun will be used for the upcoming squirrel season which opens on Nov. 10 – Mar. 2nd here in northeast florida, and I plan on training my springer spaniel to hunt grey squirrels with me. I will of course use it for some target shooting around the house as well..
Of course I am open to other suggestions as well, but was really wondering which of the two would be better suited for my needs. Thank in advance, and I will await a reply…
– Joey S.
I haven’t tested the Hunter Elite, but the CF-X is a fine air rifle.
However, consider .22 caliber and don’t overlook the RWS Diana 34 Panther. It’s difficult to scope, but very accurate.
Thanks for the speedy reply, wasn’t expecting one so soon. I was leaning more towards the .177 as pellets in this caliber are far more available in my area than the .22 but will put more thought in the latter. I’m glad your other suggestion was still within my price range, looking to keep under $300 or not much more. Which of the two would you consider more “accurate” if I remember correctly the diana 34 panther is a break-barrel and the cfx is fixed. Also, what would be the ideal shooting position for the diana? Is it very hold sensitive? By chance have you written a review on the diana 34 panther that i could read? Thanks again, your opinions and comments are taken to heart and will really influence this purchase… and of course, i plan on purchasing all from the pyramidair.com site. Lastly, does the diana have a hard trigger pull?
– Joey S.
Well, i did a search and have read all four parts to your review on the dian rws panther and am excited! You mentioned that that they tend to shoot low? Should I expect the same results with my purchase as well? What would you recommend for a scope and mount that would best fit the 34 panther when taking into consideration the fact that it shoots low? I really want to be prepared for anything such as the scope mounts shift and such… thanks again.
– Joey S.
Okay, you have done the homework. Yes, you can expect all RWS Diana spring rifle to shoot low. So low that scoping is a challenge, but not impossible. I described it in the 34 review.
The 34 trigge3r beats the CF-X trigger, but there is a guy who calls himself Charlie Da Tuna, who does great trigger jobs on Gamos, I’m told.
Well, I will take everything you have said into consideration. Any other recommedations for springers within the 300-400 dollar range. I’m staying away from anything that needs to be refilled with co2 and other air sources. I really like the look of panther and the results you shared, just really not looking forward to having to work so hard trying to scope correctly. Any idea on the progress for the prototype you discribed in it’s review? Thanks again.
– Joey Summa
After doing some more reading, I think i’m pretty much decided on the panther 34. I will be getting the mount/scope you described in your review (leaper 3-9 x 32 Rng. Est. AO, and B-Square 1 Piece Mount – 17101 Adjustable). Do you recommend a particular scope stop? Any other must haves you recommend with the initial purchase? Thanks again.
– Joey Summa
With the B-Square one-piece adjustable scope mount, the scope stop is BUILT IN! That’s the whole reason for using that mount – because the stop pin must be hung IN FRONT of the scope ramp on the gun.
I just tested anouther set of prototype scope mounts and we are getting much closer, but we’re still not there yet.
I do have a gamo shadow 1000 that I am very pleased with. I am able to acheive some great results in regards to accuracy when shooting this gun. How closely does the gamo hunter elite shoot when compaired to the hunter elite? Thanks again.
– Joey Summa
I think you meant how closely does the Hunter Elite compare to the Shadow.
Airgun manufacturers tend to use the same barrels on most, if not all of, their models, so you are looking at the same accuracy potential.
The power of the two rifles is identical, so the only real difference is the stock and the barrel treatment.
I know I’m pestering, but what do you think of the b40 as another possibilty? Thanks again.
A B40 is a great possibility, but the TX 200 is even better.
I don’t know your limits, so this discussion could be endless.
But the TX 200 is at the top. Unless you want to spend $4000 for a Whiscombe.
really looking at keeping the cost less than 400 all together, was aiming for 300 previously, but wouldn’t be terribly upset if I can keep it under 400. There’s just too many choices and variables it seems. Which is a good thing I suppose.
Okay… at this point i believe I have narrowed my choices to the following 3 from reading the many reviews on them. Your opinion as always is highly regarded!
1. Bam B40
2. Bam B30-1
3. Tech Force 89 Contender Series
I’m leaning towards the B40 most of all for its combined accuracy and quietness as I will be doing some occassional shooting around the house and really don’t want to scare the neighbors!
I’d really like to know what your thoughts are in regards to how the listed guns compare to each other.
– Joey S.
I don’t have experience with the B-30, but I imagine it performs like an RWS Diana sidelever. That’s good, but it can’t keep up with the B40 (except for the Diana 54).
The B40 will be the easiest to shoot. The 89 is just as good-looking. I like your choice.
Have you tested the .22 version that pyramidair now stocks yet. I’d like to see what it’s capable. Good potential small game hunting gun.
I haven’t tested it but everyone says it’s a winner. They are quoting velocities in their comments, so you should be able to tell from that.
It may be quite a while before I get to it, if I ever do.
After some more info searching for the B40, I’ve read in a chinese airgun forum that a lot of people were experiencing issues with the springs… most posts appeared to be several months old, so my next few questions are…
1. Do you believe the spring issues (regarding the B40) have been resolved since this time?
2. Would you reccomend the B40 over the TF 89?
3. Out of the two, which would be most hold sensitive?
4. Compairing the reviews between the two, i had the impression that the TF 89 is a bit more accurate, what do you think?
Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
– Joey S.
I wouldn’t think there has been any change in mainsprings in the B40. The Chinese don’t work that fast.
I’ve never experienced a problem, but if the spring does go bad, can’t it be replaced with a Maccari spring? I think the dimensions are pretty close to the TX 200 spring that Maccari makes.
The B40 is less hold sensitive than the TF 89, I’m sure.
No, the B40 is more accurate than the 89. Look at my groups agaun. It out-shot my own TX 200!
Wow that was a fast response, thanks again!
Nuff said on the subject (of which gun anyway)… B40 it is. I guess I will just go ahead and purchase a spring at the same time just in case. Now… where can I get some of that bore cleaner you use?
It’s on this website, under accessories, under maintenance and cleaning supplies. Scroll way down the page.
I’ve recently purchased a .177 cfx and am only getting 730-760 fps w/ crosman 7.9g hollow point premiers.
Should I be concerned
That’s on the slow side.
The CFX .177 is brand new. There’s no binding or catching and it seems to be functioning normally, but I don’t think it too unreasonable to expect similar results as what you posted.
I’ll send it back for a replacement. Is gamo’s quality control that bad?
Are you using a pellet seat to get those kind of fps numbers?
The only thing I can think of on my end is that the crosman pellets are not sealing well in the barrel and are getting a lot of blow by.
Thanks for your thoughts.
I am a huge fan of your blog and have been reading it non stop for the
last couple of weeks. I really hope you have the time to answer this
question. I am absolutely agonizing over which caliber CFX to buy.
What I would really enjoy doing is long distance target shooting in about the
50-100 yard range. Would the heavier weight of a .22 caliber pellet
have any appreciable resistance to wind at this range? Would the
pellet still retain %20 more enrgy than .177 at this range?
In one of your blog postings you mentioned that a .22 may be different
from the same rifle in .177. Have you had any experience with the
CFX in the larger caliber? Since the CFX dosen’t like heavy pellets,
does this mean the CFX in .22 caliber is inherently inaccurate?
Does the .22 also not like heavy pelets? I can find tons of reviews
for the .177 but not the .22.
Long-range shooting with an air rifle is a real challenge. I would think in the power range of the CF-X that the .177 might be better than .22. The CF-X doesn’t seem to have the same efficiency in .22 as some other spring rifles have. Normally spring guns will be 20 percent more powerful in .22 than .177, but from the reports I’m getting the .177 CF-X has equal or even greater power. Power means velocity, of course.
Regarding pellets, a spring gun usually performs better with lighter pellets for some reason. I believe it’s because springer operate with so little air compared to PCPs that like the heavier pellets.
Accuracy has very little to do with power, so your question about the potential of the .22 is moot.
Do all leapers mildot scopes have glass etched reticles? If not, which ones do?
Not all Leapers scope have etched glass reticles. As far as I know, none of the mil dots have them. The Leapers etched glass is a separate crosshair in the center of the viewing field. It is not connected to the outer reticle lines. Onlt the center cross lights up.
I looked at the Leapers website, but it doesn’t specify which scopes have the etched glass reticle. I think you need to contact Leapers directly with your question.
My father has this rifle, I think is very pleasant to shoot and the best were our local brand (same shape as these pellets)
but the best pellets were 25 year old marksman pellets. We found them in the attic.
I remember those old Marksman pellets. They were the best in the world before Crosman Premiers came out in the early 1990s.
Try JSB Exacts. They have now taken over as the best in the world.
what are the benifits of the air venturi ram coversion?
I’m surprised you didn’t see them in the product description. They are:
No spring torque
No spring fatigue, even if you leave it cocked for hours
Functions perfectly in cold weather
Lasts longer than a metal spring
I cannot believe you do not clean your airgun barrels!!!! To answer someone’s question, yes, the CFX is a little tricky to clean. YOu can use a boresnake in .17 cal, with Blue Wonder. You will have to cut a small piece off the weight and file it, to fit in through the breach. Pull from the muzzle end or it will cut the rope lol. Already did that. You can also use 177 cleaning rod and brushes from the muzzle end, wiping out the breech with a paper towel twisted into little pieces with some cleaning product. This gun shoots like crap in cold weather, and is finicky about pellets. Gamo finally put a real scope mounting block on it though, with built in slide stop screws and the rear ring has a screw into the block.
When my cfx hasnt been shot in about a week or two, the first time I try and twist the breech open in quite difficult. Within 4 or 5 turns its back to normal but the first shot in a while takes quite a bit of effort to open the breech. My question is does it need a drop or two of oil down the muzzle? It has about 3000 shots and I havent lubed it yet.
No, that’s just grease setting up and it’s okay. You don’t want to dilute that with oil, so just use it as it is.
The objective bell on scope sights often does the same thing.
helo bb. I would like to start off by saying I purchased a gamo cfx and like it alot. However, the accuracy of this pellet gun is not what I expected and even with a scope. Stop seems to shift. Anyway, I would like to know what pellets are best accuracy wise for this rifle. Also, my elevation sight screw won’t stay put and unscrews any suggestions?
I presume you are talking about the open sights? If you are using a scope, just screw the elevation all the way down and tension should keep the screw tight.
If you are talking about the SCOPE’S elevation screw, you have adjusted the elevation knob too high. Read this post:
Pay attention to the part about the erector tube springs. Is that your problem?
If so, you need an adjustable scope mount.
Is it possible to remove the open sights from the CFX? Are the rear sights just held on by an accessible screw or something?
Not easily. The front sight is molded into the muzzle brake that also houses the underlever lock. It can’t be removed or the underlever would not lock in the stored position.
The rear sight can be removed.
Is is possible to easily remove the open sights from the cfx? Is there like an accessible screw that holds the rears sights to the gun or something?
READ THE ANSWER I POSTED WHEN YOU ASKED THIS QUESTION THE FIRST TIME. IT’S RIGHT ABOVE YOUR QUESTION.
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I have purchased cfx .177 2 months back. I have fired almost 2000 pellets till now. Initially the gun was very smooth less sound with less vibration. Now the gun is making lots of sound and vibration went high. I am using 7.9gr CP and 8.5gr GSmith (Indian Made) pellets.
By mistake I fired the gun twice without closing the rotary breech. And 3 times blank fire (it happened when I fired a high shot and the pellet came out from the groove.
I was wondering if the rifle got damaged?
My second question is, do I have to lube the chamber of this gun any time? if so, which oil should I use, any brand?.
It sounds like you mainspring has developed a cant. That’s usually where vibration increases. A new mainspring is in order.
The dry-fires were not good, but shooting with the rotary breech open is no problem. The breech sealed the compression chamber so the piston didn’t slam forward.
Use silicpone oil made for compression chambers. The brand is unimportant, though Crosman offers an acceptable product.
Thanks Should I go for GAS RAM in that case or spring is suggested? I am from India and no gamo support neither any gunsmith. It is difficult to deploy a gasram than Spring? (I am having some experience for break barrel tuning but never on fixed barrel.)
I would put the gas spring in, if you can. It will never do what your steel spring has done.
The hardest part of that is taking the old spring out. Then you must remove the plastic spring guide for the gas spring to fit.
Only Pyramyd Air sells a gas spring for your rifle, as far as I know.
I think I will order a gas spring to PyramydAir soon. By the way,removing spring and the plastic part are the only stuff that I have to do? I read somewhere that removing spring means I have to replace the O ring in the rotary breech. Any comments on that?
Secondly, do I have to buy a piston washer alone with the gas spring or it comes along with the spring?
3rd, do you know if Pyramyd sends the instruction manual along with the spring?
Thanks in advance.
There is no instruction manual as far as I know. There may be a sheet of instructions, but people who order the gas spring are assumed to know how to install it.
You DO NOT have to replace the O-ring on the rotary breech.
All you do is remove the old piston and spring. Remove the spring guide. Swap the piston seal to the gas spring and grease and install it. A moly-based grease would be good for that.
It was weird to see that I was the last poster from a year ago. !?! Anyway, I’ve been to the range a few times and shooting chipmunks at 90 some feet. I was at the range yesterday and had a great time. I can’t decide between RWS Superdomes or Gamo Match. Had many nickle and quarter groups at 90 plus feet and touching or same hole shots. Now I’m tempted to try to make this gun even better with customizing. Ed
First of all, thanks for all great posts. You’ve been very helpful.
I own an .177 CF-X and pretty happy with it. I’m going to add a GRT-III (or whatever)trigger a few days later. I’ll post what it feels like.
Now, my questions:
1- I was using my rifle with open sights and recently i bought a Tasco Varmint 6-24x42mm Mildot scope which is 16in long and weights 19.6oz. I read about spring guns’ recoil may damage the scope even if i could find a way to tightly fix the heavy scope. I was advised to use a dampa mount which is a little pricey. I mailed Tasco about my scope being spring-gun rated or not but for some reason they did not reply. Do you agree with the probablity of the scope damage caused by recoil? Is it safe to use one-piece or two-piece mounts with my scope?
2- I bought my Gamo used and from the beginning i was forced to set the rear sight too high. The point of impact is dramatically low even in short ranges so i could sight-in only by unscrewing rear sights top screw almost all the way out. Beacuse unsrewing it so much eliminates its clicks, it going more loose after a few shots. I assumed the low POI was a result of reduced power so i disassembled my gun and inspected it. No tear or wear on the seal but the mainspring is a little bent. What can cause the rifle to hit that low?
3- There’s some twang in the cylinder when i shoot. Can it be cause by the bent spring? Should i replace it?
I also read your post about removing the front sight and have a tip. I discovered that there is no necessity to disassemble the muzzle break to remove the sight. If you firmly push the sight from one side to the other(not back or front) it will simply be removed. The point is being careful about pushing the sight at its lowest point. Otherwise you’ll probably break it.
Sorry if i made any language mistakes…
The bent spring is definitely causing the twang. That’s what they do.
The new RWS Diana base for the 460 will solve your barrel droop problem, I think. The recoil shock shoulder will also anchor the scope better than any other scope mount. You’ll have to get some low or medium Weaver rings to go with that base.
This is the base I mean:
The CF-X doesn’t have much recoil, so I doubt that it will hurt your scope.
Thanks for the fast reply. I’ll check out the Leapers base.
i’m very interested about the gamo cfx, but I have a few questions. You mentioned in your posting that the action was smooth, that there was nearly no “twang-ness” on the spring, so really, i don’t have to replace it with the AV gas spring? and also, were can I buy the .22 caliber version of this? I did some research, and many air gun stores don’t have it anymore, and 1 guy was selling it on ebay, but the next day, it was gone!! =( hehe, ok, thanks again for the blogs!
We have learned a lot about the CF-X since this blog was written. First – it doesn’t respond to a gas spring like other breakbarrel Gamos do – especially the Whisper! And the .22-caliber version is not getting the power advertised for it, while the .177 seems to do fine. That’s why a .22-caliber CF-X is hard to find.
hey b.b. i want to know if the action of the cfx spring is smooth, does it make a “twang” sound? or is it not noticeable. also, were can i buy the .22 version of it? ok thanks
oh nvm b.b. you answered it already, i didn’t know the comments were continued! but your saying that the cfx is really smooth? k
CAN THIS RIFLE OUTSHOOT A BENJAMIN DISCOVEY?
Not even close. The Discovery is much easier to shoot accurately, plus it is inherently more accurate.
SOUTH AFRICAN GAMO SHOOTERS. I have read some of your queries and questions.I shoot 50 and 100 yds and its taken me 18 months and lots
of self dicipline to get this right.To do these distances you need a Charlie Da Tuna Trigger (buy on internet 2 weeks delivery)
I set mine with no first stage and light touch let off be careful. Then you need a Viper 10 x44irs scope available SA. JHB.This is not a toy. PELLETS….ONLY the JSB EXACT DIABOLO 8.4GR. RED CAN.Air arms Pellets are the same thing EXACTLY because they are made for air arms BY JSB I know this because I am in contact with them.
This is the MOST STABLE PELLET YOU CAN GET. Now use a chrono to ensure that you are at about 870 feet per second and again after about 2000 pellets because springs get tired or break.Right Set scope Zero at thirty yards and for at least 3 months only ever shoot here till you are at 1 inch groups.
This CFX must rest in your hands without being squeezed at all… now only touch Charlies trigger.
Eye and hold positions must be consistent if not you are wasting your time.Also do all this early in the morning.Once at one inch groups Set Zero at 50 Yards and another three months.You must concentrate so hard on hold and eye position and narrow your eye breathe out and TOUCH the trigger.
Try a Black 10mm. Dot at 50 yards
the scope likes that size.Once your scope is Zero dont fiddle with it all the time.Your main enemy is Gravity and Wind.You will now experience the results of your efforts and will move on to 100 yards and NOW YOU HAVE ARRIVED.Go on the internet and see (Shooting Springers)Charlie Da Tuna is probably the best for information.I would never dream of changing this set up.JSB Pellets are costly but hell they work.I have also coated the main spring with Honda Motor Bike suspension grease as advised by someone in the UK and it does kill all that racket from the spring. No other grease will work.
I am wanting to purchase a CFX. This will be my first air rifle since a kid. I think I'd prefer an underlever cocking mechanism over a break barrel. Some say it comes in .22, some say it doesn't. Some say it can no longer be converted to the air venturi upgrade cause Gamo changed something, others say it can still be modified. What is truth and what to believe? I really want to get it into a gas ram upgrade somehow. Pyramyd maybe doesn't do that anymore. Any ideas?
I was unaware that Pyramyd Air ever installed gas springs in the CF-X.
Pyramyd Air is about the only game in town for a gas spring conversion to Gamo guns, so you need to contact them directly. They sponsor this blog, but I don't work at their location. Give them a call at 888-262-4867 and ask to speak to a tech rep about this possibility.
Hi, I just got my CFX Royal which is great but I would like to go for higher power and smoother operation. Do you think the Crosman Nitro Piston can go into the rifle ? In Pyramyair's web page ( /product/crosman-nitro-piston-conversion-fits-many-newer-gamo-rifles?a=2103 ), a number of Gamo airgun models are listed but I cannot see CFX there. I am just wondering if some small modification can be done to get the nitro piston into the cylinder of CFX. Thanks.
Yes, Pyramyd Air can add a Nitro Piston to your CF-X. But it won't increase the velocity. In fact, if you chronograph your gun you will find that the advertised velocity has been overstated.
The Nitro Piston will make your rifle shoot smoother, and you will have all the other advantages of a gas spring, but that's it.
Gid ay — Comment from New Zealand where the 22 cal is probably the most common. I was also having problems with accuracy & I getting older 48 but didn't think I was that off. This may help some people. I was in the habit of mounting the scope as far back as I could get it and it reduced the stance of the mounts, so I reset it up with max stance which meant I have to bring my head forwards more but it has made a significant difference, also make sure you have the back mount fixed with the large screw as the scope will move backwards with the recoil. The TRIGGER is awful, I have pulled the adjustment screw out altogether still is a firm pull, but it reduces all that creep, which suits me. All the Best from DownUnder. Mark
Hello from New Zealand. : – )
I have a GAMO Big CAT CF-S which I have made up a stock for.
So I thought this might be the place to put up some pictures!
( This is my second stock so far so please go easy on it! )
All scrap was donated from the scrap pile. Total spend was $0 NZD.
Hello from New Zealand. : – )
I have a GAMO Big CAT CF-S which I have made up a stock for. So I thought this might be the place to put up some pictures! ( This is my second stock so far so please go easy on it! )
All scrap was donated from the scrap pile.
The stock fits well. My cheek weld is good and I can probably get away without making a adjustable cheek rest. or maybe not. Next step is the fore grip and then the trigger guard. had fun designing it and fabbing it up.
Finished in boiled linseed.
Take it easy!
What an interesting stock. You might be interested in a 6-part series of guest blogs written by one of our other readers about making wood stocks:
I went berserk and decide I needed a Bullpup underlever…. a what?
The pistol grip will swivel out of the way for charging lever. So far so good!
Trigger is connect by a stiff flexible push rod and heck, even in this state you
you can feel the potential. It is super stable. No heavy barrel and lever
way out the front ! I think it’s going to be pretty darn good. Will post a few more
pictures when it’s further along.
Hope you are well and things are going swell. : – )
I like it! 🙂 What is the gun model? Would also like details on how you got a scope mount that far forwards. Trigger details too.
It will interesting to see if the accuracy is affected at all by the different hold/pressure points. Keep us posted as you progress.
Hello, gosh that was fast!
Gamo CF-S . Deburred. Even the breech end of the barrel… uff… Shim stock in the piston housing. Sheet plastic rolled up and shoved in. Helps with the twang. ( gone ! ) Polished the important bits in the trigger group. Added the screw in the trigger that is not fitted… ( ? )
Have gas ram but .. it’s pretty strong…. too strong? Modified the breech loading transfer port thing to take a cheap easy to find O ring…. so far so good. Everything internal is polished. Have a mop on my grinder. and made some swabs which I put on the drill to really polish up the inside pressure tube thingy.
The hold while experimenting is REALLY GOOD. It’s super stable. Almost no barrel wobble!
Fitting the scope will be a … challenge. I have no idea. I have the dovetail scope mount so I will start with that. And there is a threaded hole for the old “iron sight” so I will use that … some kind of hecking barrel clamp?
The real kicker is that I can’t fix the trigger group to make it “better” without making a new one from scratch . Which means equipment
I just don’t have. The design is that Theoben one which is really not crisp clean break at all. Sort of just pushing mush… oh well!
It’s like pushing a soft pillow across a shiny floor.
I have a video on youtube ( very short ) can I post the link here? ?? Lets see…mmmm…
Search for this “DIY bullpup stock for Gamo CFS air rifle.” on youtube. ; – )
I have a very humble workspace and it gets untidy fast!
Robert. : – )
Looking good. I strongly suggest that you post on the (most current) blog with future updates (with links to this thread/blog). Being from 2006,.. almost no one will ever see your post and ideas unless using the RSS comments feature at the top, right side. Few people do. That is how I saw your post and use it all of the time.
There is some 1 piece cantilevered scope mounts that you may be able to adapt/attach down to the frame (side rails) of the gun.
hmmm… the current blog? I am not sure what that is.
Here is today’s,..
You can copy and paste your most recent idea there,.. or I could try it for you.
At the top right of the page, you will see “Airgun Academy – Blog” link that will take you to the most current Mon. – Fri. blog. That is the way it is on my lap top anyways.
right… ok. I see. I thought the comments were only related to the post content.
Will post my post there!