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Education / Training Beeman RS1000H Dual-Caliber rifle combo – Part 8

Beeman RS1000H Dual-Caliber rifle combo – Part 8

by B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7

This is an unprecedented 8th look at the Beeman RS1000H Dual-Caliber rifle. Farmer asked me to test the .22 caliber rifle holding its zero following a barrel change. I also wanted to put 100 Beeman Kodiak pellets through the rifle to exercise the lip of the parachute seal (Aren’t you glad you know what THAT is?), so this test accomplished two goals at the same time.

A quick recap
Thus far, we’ve seen that this rifle is very accurate and powerful in .177 caliber, and it’s also accurate and powerful in .22, but there are some velocity variance issues. The Beeman Kodiak pellet was accurate when tested before, so it worked out well that I could use it in this test. I’ve mounted a Bushnell 6-18×44 scope in place of the one that comes with the rifle, because that one isn’t clear at 21 yards, which is the range at which I did this test.

Very hold-sensitive
I wanted to shoot several groups before the barrel change, as well as after, to show what happens, if anything, so I concentrated on my shooting style. I burned through about 30 shots trying different holds, then another 30 trying to see if Gamo Hunter pellets would work (they didn’t). I won’t bore you with the details of the hold I finally settled on; but, I’ll say that if you own this rifle, plan on spending a lot of bench time figuring out how to best hold it.

Before changing the barrel
I spent real time trying to settle in with the best hold. The fact that it took real time, in my eyes, makes the S1000H a very sensitive rifle. I test airguns all the time, and I can usually figure out one pretty fast, but this one was daunting. However, once I realized it was that sensitive, I became much more careful and started getting the results I was hoping for. Because this is a test for potential group shift, I wanted at least two groups in the same place before removing and reinstalling the barrel.

Every group is shown in the same orientation at which it was shot.

This group of five Kodiaks was the best of the whole test.
The second group before the barrel was removed and reinstalled is larger but in the same place.
Now, the barrel was removed and reinstalled to simulate changing calibers.

This is the first group, and you might be inclined to believe that the zero never changed if this was the only group you saw after barrel installation.
Whoa! That’s not a group – it’s a pattern! This second group after the barrel change is huge and not in line with the accuracy we know this rifle has.
The third group after the barrel change is tighter than the second, and can you see the shift in the POI?
Group four after the barrel swap is tighter, and the POI has definitely changed.
Group five after the barrel swap proves that I’m human and don’t always get good groups. This group is more or less in agreement with the previous target, though twice as large. And, the POI has changed from where it was before the barrel was removed and reinstalled
Oh boy! We’re gonna get comments about this test, aren’t we? “Why does the rifle act that way?” “That’s exactly what MY rifle’s doing!” If this is exactly what your rifle is doing, and you haven’t changed your barrel, you have a rifle that’s very sensitive to how it’s held. That means sensitive to where each finger touches the stock and whether you relax before shooting and on and on….

If your rifle does this AFTER changing barrels – well, that’s what they do! Only in Hollywood can a sniper unpack and assemble a rifle and hit his target with the first shot. It doesn’t work that way in real life.

In this month’s American Rifleman, they tested a Knight KP1 combination gun that comes with a rifle barrel, shotgun barrel and inline muzzleloading rifle barrel. A brief quote from one caption in that article tells the whole story:
In minutes, the KP1 can be fitted with an in-line muzzloading barrel, a shotgun barrel or a center-fire barrel. Zero isn’t an issue as sights and scopes are barrel-mounted

So I’m not making this up – zero really is lost when you change the barrel on a rifle. Not just on this rifle but on any rifle with interchangable barrels.

Finally pcp4me tells me he was told by a Beeman tech that Beeman SR-series rifles have leather seals. Since he posted that remark to the dual-caliber blog post, I think he meant Beeman RS rifles, of which the SS1000H is one. If that is the case (the SS1000H having a leather seal), there should be a simple fix for the velocity variation. Simply heavily lubricate the piston seal with corn oil. A long time ago, I was told that corn oil builds up a residue in the uneven compression chambers of spring-piston guns, making them far more consistent. I will try this fix and report back to you.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

67 thoughts on “Beeman RS1000H Dual-Caliber rifle combo – Part 8”

  1. In that same issue of American Rifleman has the AirForce EDGE. From the AirFoce site it appears to still be in development. Will they have the product ready in 2008? The sooner they get you a production item to test the better.

  2. K. Rihanek,

    I have connections at AirForce. I am watching the development of the Edge very closely and I will get one for testing just as soon as possible.

    Like the Benjamin Discovery, the demand will exceed the supply for this rifle for a time. I’ll still be able to test it, but you may have to wait to get one. There are 700.000 to 1 million youth shooters in the U.S. They won’t all buy new rifles of course, but with a population that large, the orders will be brisk.

    I believe this rifle will start selling before the middle of 2008.


  3. BB,

    Now that I’ve seen the “patterns” that you’re getting with the SS-1000 I feel less incompetent. The barrel seems to want to shoot, but the sensitivity makes it extremely difficult. As I said the other day, heavier pellets (Ramjets) seem to make mine settle down significantly.

    Understanding that tuning is a rather broad term, what type of changes, other than a lube tune, do you think might help this gun?


    PS: I don’t know about this gun having a leather seal, but I did find a link from a guy that tore one down if you want to see the guts:


  4. TC,

    Thanks for the link, but his photos don’t show enough detail for me to tell what the seal material is.

    I showed all those target because I want everyone to know that this isn’t rocket science and I’m not able to outshoot any of you. These guns are what they are, and if we can find out how to deal with them, then we’re ahead.


  5. BB – the AR1000, TF89, and Walther Force 1000 that I had apart all had synthetic seals, essentially the same seal as used on the Beeman/Norica originals. I’d be very surprised if your gun had leather in it.

    I had a Beeman rep once tell me that the trigger on the GH1050 was essentially the same as the one on the GS1000, except that it had no adjuster screws. In reality, the GH1050 is also known as the Hammerli Storm (and you know what THAT trigger is like), while the GS1000 had basically the same trigger as the AR1000 which copied it.

    Hardly the same.


  6. Hi B.B. Was shooting my .177 Diania 35 with its beloved CP’s and getting 50 cent patterns rather than wedding ring groups. Bought the gun new in the 80’s and am familiar with the way she likes to be held, scope hadn’t slipped yet (am waiting for your cure) and everything was tight. Just before I lost my mind I tried some diferent pellets. Everything except Gamo Raptors grouped better with JB Exacts and Gamo match giving me wedding ring groups. What might have happened? Ity’s got me stumped! Thanks much

  7. Vince,

    Thank you for that info. How do you remove the spanner-type forearm screws on the Beeman rifle? Does a Sears spanner fit, or do I have to make one?

    Will you do a guest blog about the breech seal shim idea? You seem to have the velocity data to support it.


  8. B.B.

    I’m all for a bit of hold sensitivity to improve shooting awareness and skills but this seems like a bit much.

    So, I guess there are no sniper rifles that you assemble on the spot since you are obviously not going to try sighting shots in the field.


  9. B.B.,
    Totally off topic but you are the go-to-guy with broad, honest firearm knowledge and experience.
    A basic homemade 850psi 778 cal smoothbore airgun, 502 grain slug at 698 fps. Higher and lower velocities depending on setup and variable adjustments. How can you get accuracy (loosely defined, LOL) out of a smooth bore at that, or any, velocity? Is a round ball inherently most accurate? What about an elongated diablo shape with a heavy head and light skirt? Will anything fly true without rifling?
    I have no firearm experience to draw on. Or maybe you can point me to a reference?
    Again, many thanks,

  10. BB,

    Yes I menat RS series rifles. Sometimes I transpose letters. Did you shoot these groups over a chronograph?

    I found the rifle to be extremely accurate but took a great deal of concentration and attention to detail to get really good groups.

    Wouldn’t it just be better to have someone supertune this gun with a McCari spring and a synthetic seal? Plus the trigger drop in. You would then have $300+ in the gun. But you should have a real sweet shooting dual caliber gun.

    And if you choose the synthetic stock silver gun (Silver SS1000T I believe) you would have a really durable and lighter hunting gun!

    Or would it simply be more cost effective to get a Hammerli X2 dual caliber? How does it compare accuracy and power wise to the Beemans?

  11. Matt61,

    There is talk about rifles that can be assembled and shot, but I wouldn’t trust my life to one.

    I own a custom-built Kreighof .30-06 with a $1,500 scope that has a German one-hook quick-disconnect scope mount. I have been able to zero very quickly after remounting the scope, but it doesn’t retain a perfect zero.

    Even a million-dollar CNC milling station that is super-precise still “touches off” before cutting.


  12. Pestbgone,

    Thanks for the compliment. Gary Barnes once asked me the same question when one of his smoothbores couldn’t hit a target smaller than 4 feet square at 50 yards.

    The answer – which I didn’t think up, but read about in the 1960s, is the French Balle Blondeau. It’s shaped like a flying dumbell.

    Some time after Barnes and I had that conversation, two guys from Pennsylvania showed up at our big bore match shooting homemade smoothbores and flying dumbells. They were quite accurate.

    Take a look at Barnes accurate bullets today. They are flying dumbells.

    The dumbells use aerodynamics to stabilize the bullet – the same as a badminton birdie.


  13. pcp4me,

    You miss my point. I’m not in this to get a sweet-shooting springer. I already have plenty of them. I’m testing the guns that you guys will be buying, so you know what to expect when you open the box.

    If I wanted this rifle tuned (which I don’t) I’d tune it myself.


  14. B.B.,
    Ah, yes! Ended up on the Barnes bullet site before I found the Gary Barnes site. Very beautiful guns too!
    Thanks for the lead. Now I have a direction to head toward for some accuracy.

  15. Pestbgone,

    So, you have such a beast? At .778 caliber it’s about a 10-gauge bore – no? And a 502-grain bullet pulling 698 is well over 500 foot-pounds (671 is the magic speed at which bullet weight in grains equals energy in foot-pounds).

    I would estimate you should be capable of getting a 6-inch group at 100 yards with that rig, as long as the barrel is true. Given the bore size, I’m going to guess you went with a shotgun tube – possibly a muzzleloading shotgun for the extra length?

    And you did all this on 850 psi, which means it’s a CO2 gun, as well, though air will make it go faster.


  16. Hello B.B.

    Thanks for the test after removing the barrel. The POI changed less than I expected. If you had shot 25 shot groups the before and after groups would have had much overlap and might have all been part of the same group. [ I like 20-25 shot groups to evaluate how well I am shooting and how well the rifle/pellet combination is shooting. ]

    Even without changing the barrel, this rifle would not be my choice for vermin control where I want high confidence where the first two shots are going to hit after not shooting the rifle for six months.

    This blog series has provided an excellent description of what to expect from this rifle.

    Thanks again,


  17. B.B.,
    Yes, I have cobbled together a proof-of-concept prototype out of copper tubing and aluminum and delrin and O-rings, etc. A 10 gauge barrel would be a lot nicer, but type L copper is about the same bore. The air source is an HPA paintball tank which is regulated to 850 psi, same as CO2. It fills a dump chamber for single shot action. The valve mechanism is a pressure controlled poppet I made, similar to an Invert Mini in this animation (about ahlf way down the page) http://www.zdspb.com/tech/misc/animations.html
    The hard part has been building a valve mechanism that will reliably dump a large volume of HPA instantaneously, and not destroy the seals in the process. More prototypes to come, and a great winter project.

  18. BB,

    Off topic as usual, but I got my old FWB 124D back. First shot never left the barrel. Didn’t try a second. Upon disassembly, I found that the piston seal had turned into that waxy mess you told us about. It literally came apart in chunks. I’ve got an old Beeman rebuild kit in my stash, but I have a feeling I should just get a new kit from Maccari and be done with these old seals.

    Also, I’m about 2 hours away from drilling and tapping the receiver to hold a low rise .22 dovetail or even a Weaver base. I know the gun is already grooved, but I can’t find the old SportsMatch brand rings designed for FWB receivers. Given the age of the gun I don’t know where to look, either. It’s pretty attractive right now to just drill out a $6.00 Weaver base and use readilly available rings w/o needing a scope stop.

    Ideas/thoughts/musings from any and all would be greatly appreciated.


  19. I sent in the insurance claim today for the stolen air rifles.

    Still want to poke somebody with a semi-sharp stick over this.


    P.S. get the biggest safe you can buy. They fill up amazingly fast.

  20. BB, yes I’ll do a guest blog. I’ve been meaning to send you my email, but stuff is a bit busy at the moment.

    As for those forearm screws, I think you’ll find that the “spanner screws” are really just plastic caps that pop off with your fingernail. There should be standard phillips screws underneath.


  21. To tell the truth, I’d almost forgotten about it. Then the other day it happened quite by chance even though I’d been trying for years. I finally observed the TRACER effect. The sun was setting and a band of light was shining across the space between me and the pellet trap. Happily, I was shooting a CO2 revolver and was able to empty a powerlet before the magic wained. I tried again the next day but no success. But it was enought – I’m still smiling.
    Springer John

  22. Hi B.B.,
    I’m rereading the blog & the part you quote from the American Rifleman, and am trying to understand what they were actually saying:

    In minutes, the KP1 can be fitted with an in-line muzzloading barrel, a shotgun barrel or a center-fire barrel. Zero isn’t an issue as sights and scopes are barrel-mounted

    …maybe I’m just misunderstanding this – but they make it sound like “zero isn’t an issue” (zero doesn’t change) because the scope is mounted to the barrel – and stays with it.

    Is that what they are saying? So one may be using up to 3 scopes with the Knight KP1? – one for each barrel – as the scope goes with the barrel when you take it off?
    Thank you.

  23. Derrick,

    DON’T drill into a 124! The B-Square AA mount (one-piece) that fits a Webley Patriot also fits 124s. The mount has two stop crosspins for the Webley. Just grind one off and use the other on your 124. That’s what I’ve been doing for nearly 10 years.

    As far as the piston seal is concerned, you may find that your replacement from Beeman is also shot with age. Use a Maccari seal, and get a replacement mainspring while you’re at it. All Beeman sold you was an FWB spring which has a limited life. Get some black tar and moly and do the job right.


  24. BB,

    I did’t drill the rifle. I did take the receiver to a plater this morning for a hard chrome finish. The bluing was gone in a couple large spots and it wouldn’t cold blue to my liking. It’ll be a nice 2-tone. I did find my FWB/Beeman rebuild kit. It’s a stock seal and spring. The spring is 1-1/2″ longer than the one I took out. So, just a bit of spring set.

    The new seal I have seems pliable enough, but I’ll get the Maccari. This rifle is a money pit at this point anyway.


  25. B.B.,
    big bore project
    I’ll let you know how it progresses and probably ask for some more advice. Checking out the Gary Barnes site and some of your older blogs let me know I’m probably trying to reinvent the wheel, but I like to look for a simple approach. I don’t know if you looked at the animations on the paintball site, but there is some serious sophisticated engineering in that field.
    You said in some previous blog, that with the bigbores, a long barrel is needed to give the projectile time to accelerate. I’ve used 30, 60, and 80″ barrels and definitley found that to be true. Also, as the velocity climbs, the efficiency really drops off from my thoeretical calculations. Max energy so far has been 706 ftlbs from 850 psi, 712 gn, 668fps, 80 inch barrel. It kicks and is noisey. Like an old musket. Have not tried it for accuracy, or lack thereof, but that is coming soon.
    Thanks again,

  26. Pestbgone,

    You may not be the first to use a barrel that long, but you are among the first to report on it, if not the only one. I would have though 80 inches was beyond the point of diminishing returns. I would have though 48 inches was more like the optimum for that bore size.

    I’m alerting Dennis Quackenbush about your experiment, so he can see what you are doing, too. I upgraded from a 25-inch barrel to a 33-inch barrel on my Quackenbush 457 Outlaw Long Action and it seems to have improved performance, though I never took chronograph reading with the shorter (standard) barrel.


  27. B.B.,
    Yes, the additional barrel length is only helpful if the HPA dump chamber, which is adjustable in my setup, has the volume to utilize the extra length. There is a point of diminishing returns.
    I’ve developed a spreadsheet that graphs velocity, energy, and chamber pressure vs. barrel length, and I’ll email it to you. Input variables are: charge pressure, projectile wt, bore, barrel length, dump chamber volume, transfer port volume, and effeciency. Effeciency is a rather nebulous value that will take some explanation.

    I’m collecting quite a bit of experimental data, FWIW.

  28. Pestbgone,

    Efficiency means the effective transfer of energy. When the power is supplied by air, air FLOW becomes important. A straight path for the air to follow is important. A non-smooth transfer port is important (you want to create some eddy currents in the flow – like a golf ball).


  29. Derrick,

    If you do this it will be a multi-part report. There is too much for a single posting, with all the photos you’ll take. Too bad you took the 124 to the plater already – you could have started there.

    BTW, plating will reduce the internal dimensions. Have you considered that?


  30. Hi BB,
    Would like to contribute a little to the subject”Breech seal”. After I got my IZH 46 M from PA, the instruction manuel said: Keep your air pistol when not in use with unlocked bolt lever. This action permits the seals to stay in shape and work much longer and prevents air leaks. Well, That’s what I’m doing also to my break barrels, just let open the action when not in use, this way the higher breech seal will not squash over time, who knows, the seal might even last forever. Many thanks to Vince again for adding 100+fps to my .22 Panther.


  31. B.B. & Farmer,
    About zero changing when changing barrels. Basically I agree with your conclusion and it does seem logical. However…

    I’ve been shooting a Remington 870 shotgun that gets converted to a slug gun every deer season by changing to slug barrel and adding a scope that attaches to the breech via a saddle mount.

    So far the scope and barrel combo are zeroed perfect every time. Maybe I’m lucky or maybe my idea of zeroed on this gun is a bit generous. If I can hit a 6-inch target at 50-yards I’m happy. And so far it is on the target every time. No adjustments are required.

    The scope is a zero power red dot and it is not attached to the barrel. Have been using this same setup for 10-years.


  32. BB,

    I understand you report on what you find out of the box.

    But I think you misunderstood what I was saying.

    How many sweet shooting DUAL caliber springers do you own? Zero?

    THAT is what I am seeking. I would prefer one out of the box which I did not have to tune. Great trigger like the rekord, great accuracy and energy, and NOT so dependant on technique or how it is held as to be unusable for hunting.

    I would not mind paying double or more what the Silver SS1000T cost me to have it!

    Which leads me to the next question that was unanswered in my last post.

    Have you tested the Hammerli X2 dual caliber? If so, could you post the link. If not, do you plan to test it?


  33. pcp4me,

    I think YOU misunderstood ME, for you are exactly the kind of person I am writing for. I purposely DON’T tear into most airguns because I think people want something that works right when they take it out of the box.

    I have been criticized for not writing more “in-depth” and more heavily technical articles, but every time I do, I get loads of fundamental questions that tell me I have left most of my audience behind.

    How many other dual-caliber rifles have I tested? Just the AirForce guns, which are four-caliber, if you go all the way. And the Whiscombe JW 75, which is another four-caliber rifle. But those two guns are far beyond the scope of what I’m testing with the Beeman, both in terms of design and cost.

    You asked how many other “sweet-shooting” dual caliber rifles I have tested, and I cannot put this Beeman in that category yet because of the velocity problems. If they resolve through use, then, yes, that rifle is a real bargain, in my opinion. If you truely wouldn’t mind paying more, my advice is to get an AirForce Talon SS and add barrels as you are able.

    I have not tested the Hammerli X2 yet.

    I will probably test additional dual-caliber air rifles in the future because they exist. In fact, I think I have another Beeman ready to go soon.


  34. Another question about the RS2, I have had mine for about 2 months now and have put about 2000 pellets through it, it is starting to sound kind of dry and rough so I was wondering what to use to oil the gun and how to oil it. Also the last time I changed the barrel I had trouble with the scope, after I changed it I had to turn the elevation screw all the way up and it still is shooting high any advise?

  35. RS2,

    Use A good oil like Remoil or Logun Oil to oil the mainspring. You’ll have to take the action out of the stock to reach the spring. Use a chamber oil through the air transfer port to oil the piston seal. Two or three drops is all.

    Move the rear sight adjustment in the direction you want the pellet to move. Down, in your case.


  36. B.B.,
    Big Bore velocity spreadsheet–

    I attempted to email my bigbore velocity predicting/calculating spreadsheet through your “check availability” link on airgunwriter.com, but I don’t think I was succesful. The spreadsheet outputs a graph of velocity, ME, and chamber pressure drop, vs barrel length, based on several input variables for a dump-chamber type airgun. You might find it interesting.
    Anyway, I am at
    if you’d like me to give it another shot.

  37. Pestbgone,

    I got the spreadsheet and have been looking it over. It’s interesting, but only theoretical. It would be nice to compare to some empirical data, when you get it.

    I’m sorry I didn’t get back to you sooner, but I’ve been pretty buys for the past week meeting deadlines. I’m still buried under a pile of things, so it will be at least another week before I have tom,e to do more.


  38. B.B.,
    I totally understand. Yes, it is purely theoretical, but I have been collecting quite a bit of empirical data, varying projectile weight, charge pressure, charge volume, bore, and barrel length.
    With correction factors, the tests correlate very well with the theoretical predictions. Refining and analyzing the data sometimes takes as much time as the testing.
    Still, a .750 dia 712 grain wadcutter at 668 fps (highest M.E. so far) punches a very neat hole through 2 inches of phone books, and then some. (Theoretical for that particular setup was 829 fps, btw.)
    I’ve been studying the Gary Barnes site and his working art pieces. A lot of info to digest.

  39. If you want to decrease the hold sensitivity, removing 3 inches from the .22 caliber barrel did wonders on mine. I suspect it is due to the increased “lock time” of the heavier pellet. I also wanted to address the changing of barrels while I was here. There are two methods used for retaining the barrel on this gun. One is a bolt which crosses the breach block while the other is a grub screw threaded in from beneath the breach block. The latter is preferable since it does a much better job of locating the barrel during installation. Since the grub screw is tapered to match the hole in the underside of the barrel, it tends to seat in pretty much the same spot each time.

    Just another .02
    Thanks for the great reviews.


  40. B.B.,
    A while back you said ” A long time ago, I was told that corn oil builds up a residue in the uneven compression chambers of spring-piston guns, making them far more consistent. I will try this fix and report back to you.”
    Did you do this and how is this done and what was the outcome? I have one of these rifles. I thought I already left this message but now can not find it.

  41. I tried it and it didn’t work. It only works well with leather piston seals, and I think this one is synthetic, though I’ve heard that it’s leather, too.

    I don’t know, but the corn oil didn’t work. I am stalling because I’m looking for a simple fix thet gets the rifle going in .22.


  42. I called Beeman and they said that the seals are self-lubricating synthetics. They said not to oil it. After firing over 700 rds in the ss1000-s in the .22 cal barrel, I am very accurate with it and it has become a little less hold sensitive. It’s breaking in nicely. I love this gun.

  43. Event,

    Interesting news. Now that you’ve been inside the gun you have solved one of this guns mysteries.

    How much lower are your velocity numbers than spec?
    I would encourage you to post your comments on the current/active blog since I’m sure others would be interested in your findings.

    Lots of airgunners here just like you sharing experiences and solving each others problems. Go here:


    Look forward to hearing from you!


  44. I picked up a Beeman RS2 at Wal-Mart today and the box appeared to be unopened. Once I got it home, I pointed it in a safe direction, tried out the trigger and BOOOOM. Should these things be shipped cocked? I don’t believe it was loaded. I am concerned that the spring may have been that way since the factory and I have no chrony to assess if the velocity numbers are ok. Should I exchange it?

  45. Absolutely not. The gun should not have been shipped cocked – and if a gun IS left cocked for an extended period of time (days), the spring starts getting weak. So I would RETURN THE GUN! You’ve got no idea how long it was sitting like that.

  46. RJ, first of all let me point out that the most recent blog can be found over at /blog//

    You can post any airgun related topic over there and a lot more people will see it.

    If you're a beginner, I suspect this wouldn't be the best gun for you. It's based on the AR1000 design (itself a Chinese copy of the Norica-built Beeman GS1000)… and while it's a powerful and accurate gun it's also heavy and takes a bit of effort to cock. It's not bad for what it is, but for someone just starting out it might be a bit much. It can also be a bit challenging to shoot well (BB notes that it is very 'hold sensitive').

    In addition – I don't know how valuable the dual-caliber function really is. The gun would have to be re-sighted every time the barrel is changed for best accuracy. Couple that with the possibility that the barrel-change mechanism could loosen up over time with disastrous effects on accuracy.

    All in all, for someone who is new to airguns there's a lot going on with a gun like this that can interfere with the process of learning how to shoot it.

    One last thing – Shanghai makes 2 variants of this platform, and Beeman sells (or sold) both. The big difference is the trigger. There's 2 designs – the one on the gun reviewed here is one of the best triggers available on a springer, and the other (on the cheaper variants) is about the worst. And it's not always clear from advertiser's literature which is which.

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    Shop and purchase with confidence knowing that all of our air guns (except airsoft) are protected by a minimum 1-year manufacturer's warranty from the date of purchase unless otherwise noted on the product page.

    A warranty is provided by each manufacturer to ensure that your product is free of defect in both materials and workmanship.

    View Warranty Details

  • Exchanges / Refunds

    Didn't get what you wanted or have a problem? We understand that sometimes things aren't right and our team is serious about resolving these issues quickly. We can often help you fix small to medium issues over the phone or email.

    If you need to return an item please read our return policy.

    Learn About Returns

Get FREE shipping on qualifying orders! Any order $150+ with a shipping address in the contiguous US will receive the option for free ground shipping on items sold & shipped by Pyramyd AIR during checkout. Certain restrictions apply.

Free shipping may not be combined with a coupon unless stated otherwise.

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