by B.B. Pelletier
Okay, today we’re back with the new RWS Diana Schutze youth model breakbarrel. I’ve been watching the forums and see that shooters are already discussing this rifle. One person has made up his mind that the trigger is too heavy (it’s 6 lbs. right now) and others are comparing the published velocity of the Schutze with velocities they get with their RWS Diana model 24s. As you recall, the Schutze is an updated model 24, now called the model 240.
We’ll look at velocity today. I lubricated the piston seal because the test rifle was squeaking when it was cocked. That’s the sound of a dry piston seal, so it got three drops of Whiscombe Honey, which until now I have reserved for lubing pellets, only. I used it because I am out of silicone chamber oil, and I wanted to see if this might be a viable substitute. There was a lot of dieseling and velocity fluctuation in the first 100 shots. The gun really stunk up the house with the smoke it produced. Then, it settled down and started performing right.
The seal is greatly improved from before. However, on the basis of the initial dieseling, I’d have to say Whiscombe Honey is not a good chamber lube.
The trigger is now almost free from creep. On many shots there’s no creep whatsoever, but then there will be some on a shot or two. I think that after 1,000-2,000 shots, it’ll be entirely creep-free.
The trigger-pull is getting lighter but not yet consistently lighter. That’s another area where several thousand shots will make a difference. In that respect, this trigger is no different than the trigger on a Beeman C1 or most older Gamos.
Velocity – RWS Hobbys
RWS Hobbys averaged 584 f.p.s., with a spread from 579 to 591. That’s a velocity spread of 12 f.p.s. and a muzzle energy of 5.3 foot-pounds.
Velocity – RWS Superdomes
RWS Superdomes averaged 516 f.p.s., with a spread from 507 f.p.s. to 521 f.p.s. That’s a velocity spread of 14 f.p.s. and a muzzle energy of 4.91 foot-pounds.
Velocity – Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets
Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets averaged 537 f.p.s. with a spread from 531 to 544. That a total spread of 13 f.p.s. and a muzzle energy of 5.06 foot-pounds. Of all the pellets tested, Premiers fit the bore the tightest and seemed to have the smoothest firing characteristics.
Velocity – Gamo Raptors
Send in the clowns! Gamo Raptors delivered an average of 645 f.p.s. with a spread from 610 to 680. That’s a total spread of 70 f.p.s. and a muzzle energy of 4.62 foot-pounds.
Velocity – Crosman Silver Eagle hollowpoints
More trick pellets. Crosman Silver Eagle hollowpoints are the new velocity champs of all pellets made from some kind of metal. In the Schutze, they averaged 760 f.p.s., with a velocity spread from 751 to 770. That’s a 19 f.p.s. total spread and a muzzle energy of 6.16 foot-pounds. That’s a pretty tight spread for a trick pellet, so perhaps these will show some accuracy.
The Schutze is right on the spec for velocity, and the test rifle exhibits signs of breaking in the way most better-quality spring guns do. I’m surprised no one has remarked yet that this rifle is priced slightly higher than the much more powerful RWS Diana 34 Panther – as though we buy our airguns on the basis of feet-per-second. Oh, wait! Many people still do! If you’re among them, the Schutze isn’t for you. But, if you’re a parent looking for a quality youth air rifle for less money than a Beeman R7 or an HW 30, you might want to consider this one. We have to test accuracy next, so all the votes are not yet counted. Stay tuned!
26 thoughts on “RWS Diana Schutze – Part 2”
Sorry for the off-topic question but I have run into a scope issue that I need your help quick. I have read your post on optically centering a scope. With airgun, it’s easy to get adjustable rings and a little bit of work to set up the initial zero. What do I need to do with non-adjustable rings for powder burners? Should I be looking at making some shims?
Yes, shims are the easiest way to get a firearm scope to line up. I’m assuming you cannot adjust high enough to get on target? Then shim under the rear ring base, if possible. If not, shim under the scope in the saddle of the rear ring. Use one piece of 2-liter pop bottle plastic for your shim and don’t tighten the scope ring caps too tight. More and you’ll dent the scope tube.
Above, you answered “Then shim under the rear ring base” I’m confused, how would you do that? JR.
I bit my tongue in part one, but your explicit reference to HW30 and the price level of the Schutze begs the question — why not just spend a very few more dollars and get the HW30, with arguably better sights and trigger?
thanks for linking the trigger blog as this helped a lot. I still do have 1 question that the blog mentioned but didnt clarify, whats the difference between a Set trigger and a Single Stage trigger? the blog mentions that a Set trigger is always Single Stage, so what else is it worthy of giving it a different name?
Some ring bases are flat on the bottom (the part that touches the gun). A shim can be placed between then and the gun. Other rings aren’t and can’t be shimmed there. For those you have to shim between the scope tube and the ring.
If a person has the money and wants to go that way, that choice is fine. But some people have limited funds or just want to buy something other than the HW 30. I’m always looking for new guns in this category.
hey everyone….i haven’t posted in a long time, but i have some news that might interest some of you…according to gamo’s website, they are going to start making the hunter extreme and whisper in .22…a great addition to anyone’s hunting rifle collection if you ask me.
Both single-stage and two-stage triggers can also be set triggers. A set trigger is one that functions as a normal trigger, and can be set to release with very little pressure – less than one ounce in a lot of cases. To set a double-set trigger you pull back on a second trigger blade that’s usually behind the firing trigger. If it’s a single-set trigger you push forward on the trigger blade until it clicks into the set position. Either way, the required pressure to fire the gun can drop from five pounds to one ounce.
Good to hear from you again and thanks for that news.
Thanks for the quick reply and sorry to bug you again. I don’t have a problem with elevation adjustment and I should have been more clear with my question. After a scope is optically centered and mounted on the rifle, if the cross hair is off to one side so to speak, should I shim both the front and back ring to bring it to the center (where the POI is) i.e. without using the windage adjustment. I was under the impression that the whole exercise of optically centering the scope is so that the line of sight is exactly above the bore line without using the windage adjustment so that there will never be a cross-over laterally of the two imaginary lines at any distance down range. I don’t know if I have made myself clearer this time though 🙁
I should have understood. Optical centering is ONLY good if you have an adjustable scope mount. For a non-adjustable mount it does little good unless you are close enough to the vertical centerline that you can get there by swapping rings, front and rear, or by turning them around (and swapping them again, if necessary).
I have never heard of shimming being used in this circumstance. I suppose it might work if the scope is very close already, but I’ve had no experience with it.
The purpose of optical centering is so you can adjust for distance at very close range (10-55 yards), and not be off to the right or left. I can’t think of what you would use it for at firearm distances.
BB, stoopid question time! I just saw your article “Scope shift and barrel droop…two common problems”, and was shocked (yes! Shocked!) when I read that an AO scope does NOT correct for the parallax that occurs when the shooter’s head shifts around a bit.
If that’s true, what sort of parallax DOES is correct?
Thank you for the info on the AA .22 cal ProSport. I expect to get one ordered up in the next 2/3 days. Appreciate that you took the time to respond.
I probably didn’t word that statement well. It does compensate for eye-to-reticle-to-target parallax, but it doesn’t remove it completely. If you position your eye in a different place in relation to the exit pupil, some parallax still exists.
I erred in my zealous attempt to impress the readers that parallax is impossible to entirely remove.
I thought that the HW30 was getting cancelled by PA along with the rest of the Weihrauch line.
OK then… another parallax question… how much shift in the eye corresponds to a shift in POI at any specific range?
Also, some time ago I sent you an email regarding a “guest blog” on the ’34 breech seal, but I never heard back. Did I do something wrong?
No way to tell about the parallax. No one has done the study.
On the guest blog email, it never arrived. Please resend.
No, Beeman has decided to continue to offer the HW 30, so it is really a Beeman gun.
Hey BB., Tim here (Dragonslayer). Nice report on the 240. I recently purchased an older (93) Diana 24. I love it so much,it is a real tack driver! Very smooth & not very hold sensative. Mine is shooting RWS Super Points @ 535 fps. Im looking forward to your accuracy tests on the 240. Hope all is well,Tim.
Thank you for the numbers with your 24. People on the forums are quoting high figures in the 600+ f.p.s. region, and I know this little rifle wasn’t made for that, so it’s nice to hear a sane report.
I am considering a 240 Classic for my kids. Did you get around to checking accuracy? Cheers, Gerard
To find all the parts of any report, use the search function on the current post.
What type of premiers did you test. Did try to shoot any groups with them?
I just ordered a Shutze and am wondering what to do to it when I get it. (I'm kind of a newbie) Should I oil it? Clean it? Or can I just start shooting it? I want to make sure that I do the right thing for the gun.
The Schutze can just be shot after you take it from the box. It has a Diana piston seal that almost never needs oiling. Maybe after 5,000 shots a drop of silicone chamber oil would be good, but wait as long as you can.