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Air Guns Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 6

Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 6

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Hatsan 85
Hatsan 85 Sniper rifle combo.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

This report covers:

  • Bipod
  • Trigger baseline
  • Trigger is naked and exposed!
  • New trigger screws
  • Buldawg’s instructions
  • Can’t waste any time
  • Got it!
  • Results
  • One more accuracy test

We’re back with the Hatsan 85 Mossy Oak Break Up combo, and today we will look at changing those screws in the trigger unit, plus get an update on the bipod. This is turning into a long series, and I hope that newer readers appreciate the depth of detail they are seeing. I normally do not look at any one airgun this close.


I was contacted by Hatsan USA and informed that bipods have been removed from these combo packages. They said that decision was made two years ago and were surprised that I got one, but sometimes decisions proceed actions by a very long time in retail. If the supply chain is a long one, as it certainly is in this case (Turkey to the U.S. to the dealer to the customer), then it takes a long time for things to rectify. But the bottom line is there shouldn’t be a bipod with the gun anymore, so I will forgo that test. I did not hold out much hope for it anyhow!

Trigger baseline

When I started this work the trigger released after a 5 lb. 14 oz. pull, depending on how the gage was used. The second stage was very long but fairly crisp. I did not adjust the trigger so far, so what you see today is where it was set at the factory.

Before I continue I want to mention that the trigger return spring screw was not touched. It was set fine at the factory and I saw no reason to adjust it any farther. In case you are wondering, it is a separate headless screw located behind the trigger blade.

Reader Buldawg76 was kind enough to send me two longer trigger adjustment screws he had modified for the Hatsan trigger. When I’m finished with them I will send them back, since this rifle will go back into the Pyramyd AIR inventory as a used gun at the end of this test.

He instructed me to install both screws and set them so their heads were in the same position as the factory screw heads. So the first thing I did after removing the action from the stock was photograph the trigger. This step is not necessary and I advise against it, as you will soon see.

Hatsan 85 trigger right side
The right side of the Hatsan 85 trigger. As you can see, the adjustment screws appear to be adjusted in as far as they will go. You can also see that as the trigger blade is pulled to the rear, it rises in the trigger unit. This is where the difference in my trigger-pull measurement in part 2 comes from!

Hatsan 85 trigger left side
The left side of the Hatsan trigger.

Trigger is naked and exposed!

While the Quattro trigger is unitized, it is also very exposed and in my opinion, is not a trigger for most owners to work on out of the stock. Too many things can pop off or slip out and get lost, rendering the rifle inoperable. While these parts are not as loose as some I have seen in similar designs on other brands, they are still too exposed for the casual worker. So if you decide to do this, my advice is to leave the action in the stock.

New trigger screws

The new trigger screws are about 1/4-inch longer than the factory screws. Bulldawg has rounded their tips so they have little friction with the parts they contact.

Hatsan 85 trigger new screws
The factory trigger adjustment screws are on the left. The new screws are longer and have thinner heads. Their tips have been rounded for less drag.

Buldawg’s instructions

Buldawg told me to install the new screws so their heads were the same height as the factory screws. Obviously I will not be able to do that because the factory screws are all the way in. When I removed both factory screws I verified that they were, in fact, screwed down tight. So I installed the new screws so they were sticking up enough that I knew they were not nearly as far in as the factory screws. Then I installed the barreled action back in the stock and began testing.

Can’t waste any time

One thing I lack is time to fiddle around. I have to put out a blog every weekday, and gathering the material to write about takes from 2 to 4 hours, minimum. Then I have to write and edit the blog, take all the pictures and Photoshop them for the blog, then schedule the blog for publishing as I do my final edit. On a good day this all takes 8 hours. Some days it takes longer — a lot longer. I simply haven’t got the time to sit around and fiddle with things, to see what works. If I invest 3 hours in something I’m darn sure going to write it up, because there’s another blog coming tomorrow.

So, I was counting on Buldawg’s directions to get me through this fast enough to stay on schedule. And they did! Buldawg had told me to put the new screw heads at the same height as the factory heads as my starting point, but now you understand why I could not do that. So, instead I installed them out far enough that all adjustments had to be done by screwing them in.

Hatsan 85 trigger new screws installed
The replacement screws were left high enough that all adjustments would be done by screwing them in.

Buldawg also told me to adjust each screw slowly — by 1/8 turn per try. But the screws were so far out that I turned them in a whole turn per try until reaching the point where the adjustment started to get critical. On the first test with the new screws as installed, I could feel a short first stage, followed by a heavy creepy stage two pull. I turned the front screw in a whole turn and found the first stage was now much longer and stage 2 was unchanged. Then I turned the rear screw in a whole turn and stage 2 became lighter, but still had a lot of creep. The first stage was also shortened when I adjusted the rear screw.

After this test, I adjusted each screw in turn, firing the gun after each adjustment. I was still adjusting each screw entire turns each time. However, after three whole turns on each screw I could feel the trigger pull was approaching what I wanted. That’s where I slowed down.

Buldawg told me I could get the trigger release down under one pound with these screws. That might be nice for some shooters — especially if this is their own rifle. For me, though, one pound is too light. I only have a couple spring guns adjusted that light and those guns have triggers that are far more precise than this Quattro. On a sporting spring rifle like the Hatsan 85, I feel a trigger that releases crisply at something between 2 and 3.5 lbs. is probably right for me.

Got it!

The final three adjustments were each less than an entire turn. I wanted a definite first stage, followed by a lighter second stage that was crisp. And I got it. Stage 2 now breaks cleanly at 2 lbs. 10 oz. That is a reduction from the 5 lbs. 14 oz. factory setting. The trigger is now as crisp as a glass rod breaking — no hint of movement before the release. I couldn’t ask for anything better in a spring rifle of this power. Buldawg was right about the Quattro trigger needing these longer screws for the adjustments to be fully effective.

Hatsan 85 trigger new screws adjusted
Once the replacement screws were properly adjusted, you can see how far in they went. Note that the front screw (stage one) is now in farther than the stage two screw.


I don’t often get such a positive result as what we see today. Buldawg was absolutely right with what he said about these screws. I do think that if you decide to try it yourself, you can just leave the action in the stock. I only removed it to show you the trigger mechanism.

One more accuracy test

The Hatsan 85 is now shooting so well that I feel it deserves another accuracy test. This time I know a lot more about the rifle than before, plus the trigger is now optimum. Let’s see whether this makes any difference.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

64 thoughts on “Hatsan 85 MOBU Sniper Combo: Part 6”

  1. Thank you, Thank you…
    I appreciate your extra work on this project. Sometimes, the cheaper guns need a little TLC.
    Can not wait for part 7!
    Thanks again,

    P.S. I think you need an assistant. Hope you are feeling better.

  2. I wonder if the gold Quattro trigger in the 44 QE is a different trigger than the one in this gun. Or if they just dressed up the trigger blade with gold.

    And good glad the trigger screw mod helped. Wish you would of held off on this report till you got the accuracy test done with the trigger adjusted.

    And have been thinking about if you are going to test the Hatsan .30 or .35 caliber pcp. Not the .30 caliber spring gun. If I remember right I thought you was supposed to get one of the big bore pcp’s from Hatsan to test. Did Hatsan drop the ball?

    • GF1,

      I would not be surprised if they were identical. This one would have a gold trigger except that it is camouflaged.

      Crosman could stand to learn a lesson from this. They have a decent modular trigger on their Marauder. They should take the Marauder trigger assembly and mate it with their NP2 technology and put it in a nice looking stock. I’d buy it.

      Of course they’ll blow it. They will finally have a decent sproinger and they will turn around and try to make it look like a Mattelomatic. UGH!

      • RR
        Probably true about the gold trigger not being on the camo model. Never thought about that.

        And yes the Marauder trigger is very nice. I just don’t understand why Crosman can’t put a good trigger on their springers or NP guns.

        Hopefully somebody at Crosman has been following BB’s blog for the last week. Then maybe they can get a few ideas that will make some positive additions to their guns.

        We’ll see how that goes. As I say. Time will tell.

        • GF1 and RR
          The triggers in the spring guns and the PCPs are not the same besides the obvious color difference the geometry of the pivot point is also different as BB stated in this report he could get two different release pull weights depending on if he pulled straight back or with a slight upward angle.

          The PCP triggers are much more of a straight rearward pivoting geometry as compared to the spring gun triggers that have a slight upward pivoting angle as they are pulled rear ward which creates a definite difference in pull weight depending on the way you pull the trigger.

          If you pull straight to the rear its a heavier trigger than if you pull with a slight upward angle to the trigger blade when firing. That’s why installing the proper screws to get a crisp release eliminates that difference in pull weight regardless of the angle when pulling the trigger since there is no creep or extra length to the release of the sear when adjusted correctly.


          • BD
            How about the Quattro trigger in the spring guns that are gold verses this trigger in the gun BB is testing?

            Is the color the only difference or did they change the geometry on those two triggers.

            That’s probably what I should of asked. I more interested to know about the spring gun triggers in this case.

            • GF1
              Color has no bearing on the geometry in the spring guns as it just a cosmetic thing so no it does not matter if it gold or black if its a spring gun its the same geometry at least for the ones I have dealt with but the newer gun may have changed but since the one BB is testing now is that way I doubt they have made any change.

              But then he also said in this report they no longer come with the bipods and yet his had that with it so he may be testing a year old or more model as well.


              • BD
                I posted a link below about triggers from Hector Medina. It’s got some pretty good info.

                I don’t remember who posted that on the blog in the past. But I did save that link from whoever posted it here. It could of been you. I don’t remember. But anyway check it out.

  3. B.B.
    ANY word on Hunter success with the Benjamin Pioneer airbow you could throw us a bone to gnaw on for a while? I got high hopes for that thing! Even though it’s $1000. Mainly because I know I can build a selfcontained multi pump single shot version that will be almost as effective.
    I’m certain I could drop white tail and rabbit with it out to 30-40yds!
    As is obvious by now IM rooting for this one! Can I borrow your pom -poms for a bit?


  4. BB
    I really appreciate you taking the time to do the trigger mod since I knew you would be pleased with the results and in hindsight I do remember now that the stock screws are on most gun screwed all the way in as you found. So in my explanation of how to adjust the screws my term of getting them in the same relationship should have been clarified with counting the number of turns of each as it was backed out to get you closer to the correct starting point.

    I see it did take quite a few full turns to get them close to the correct positions but once you started getting close you were able to zero right in on the proper relationship between the two to achieve a very crisp trigger.

    I say it can be adjusted to less than a pounds pull which it can be and is very likely to light for most people and guns in general and since I don’t own a pull gauge I cannot truly say what mine are set at but I know my AT44 is set so that the first stage has about 1/4″ of travel and hits a very distinct second stage stop/click feel with just the slightest more movement and it releases glass crisp so it may indeed be over a pounds release pull but for me it feels like far less. But I have heavy scarring and calluses on my finger tips so that my nerve ending are not sensitive to touch at all and can pick up objects at temps that most would drop instantly from the heat of the object. Imagine having to change spark plugs in an engine that has just come in the shop as a waiter and is at operating temps of 220 degrees and removing the plugs with your bare tips of your fingers because that’s all you can get a good enough grip on them with to not drop them into the depths of nowhere land in the under hood nooks and crannies of today cars.

    I am hoping the trigger mod will show us a marked improvement in the guns accuracy by removing one more variable in the triggers release point for you.


      • Siranko
        The screws are metric threads and are a 3mm diameter by .5mm pitch by 15mm long and come in various style of heads. The ones I sent BB are Philips head screws and I had to files the head diameter down so the would not hit each other when installed by chucking them in a drill press and filing the heads with them turning but a hand drill would work just as well.

        You will also need to round the end of the screws where they contact the sear to provide a smooth contour so there will be no gritty or rough feel to the trigger movement where they ride on the sear. I did it with a bench grinder and then a hand file followed by fine sandpaper to give them a smooth rounded surface.

        If you can find that size in a allen head you will not have a clearance issue with the heads of then screws but my local hardware store does not carry that small of a screw in an allen head so I just made do with what they had available.

        Hope this helps and good luck.


          • Chris,USA
            No moly in the screw holes since it has a nylon insert between the screws to prevent loosening after adjustment and the molly may affect it but most definitely molly on the tips where they contact the sear indeed.


            • BD76,

              So, no moly on plastic parts, huh? That would induce wear, thus making things “unsafe” in the future after repeated usage, huh? Trigger mechanisms that employ plastics, would be a no-no then, huh? Mmmmm?,…. I might have a comment on that,…. a 499 that went to super sweet light to scary light. Gradual, but it did. Plastics would dictate a silicone based I presume?

              On that, plastics have no place in a trigger group,… IMO.

              • Chris,USA
                I am no metal/plastics expert but I would not be so much worried about the moly on the plastic making it slippery or inducing wear as much as it causing the plastic to degrade or crumble from the chemicals in the moly changing its properties.

                I agree plastics have no place in triggers but the nylon/plastic in the Hatsan trigger blade is only a small piece in between the two screws so that it contacts the threads and creates a form of lock patch so the screws do not turn freely and has no structural impact on any of the trigger parts at all.

                As far as the 499 trigger I cannot comment as I have no idea how or what it is made of so if the moly worked then leave it be and just keep an eye on the plastic for degradation over time.

                Yes silicone or any other non petroleum based lubricant on the plastic parts for me anyway.


                • BD76,

                  Well, I reported awhile back that it was getting 4-8oz. with a Lyman trigger gauge. The other day, I closed the cocking lever with the usual “snap”, and the shot went off at the ceiling. Too light, I would say. The trigger has never been messed with other than some lube.

                  I called Daisy at the # on the back of the manual, a REAL person picked right up, sent me right to another REAL person in the parts dept.. I had the part #’s shown in the manual and within 4 minutes had a (new trigger group) and (complete piston assy. with latch rod) on the way via mail. Less than 12$ without shipping.

                  It does not get any better than that for customer service. Well, PA of course. Just not something that you expect these days. No voice prompt program,… just a real person.

                  So yea, I will be going back inside in the near future. Without having it torn down now, besides the trigger, there is 1 or 2 more plastic parts before winding up at the latch rod sear, which is metal. I will let you know what I find.

                  • Chris,USA
                    4- 8 oz is indeed very light and on par with a FWB 300s trigger or 10 meter match pistol trigger for sure. So are any parts of the trigger plastic that may have degraded or become soft from the lube you used or do you not have it apart as of yet.

                    Isn’t it nice to actually call a company and be able to talk to a live person on the first try and get service that’s as good as it can get. Crosman is the same way except you have to have part numbers for them as they will not look anything up and Umarex is just as good and will even look up part numbers as well, plus I called Umarex about trigger parts for a Hatsan that Hatsan would not sell me and was unsure if the piston seal for the Walther talon I was using to get the Hatsan parts was the same size or not and the girl went out to the shop and asked a tech about it and came back and confirmed it was indeed a 25mm seal and would fit the gun I needed it for so there are still some companies out there that truly want our business and unfortunately Hatsan to me is not one of them. Shame on them.

                    Let us know what you find as I am curious if the moly has done any damage or not.


                    • BD76,

                      Not apart yet. The trigger group/unit slides side to side on 2 bolts (slop), so I may try something for that. The trigger unit is riveted together, so getting inside would be a task. Then, if you ever wanted to put it back together,….. ? Sure, anything is possible. I will not spend a bunch of time on it, just enough to get it going again as it is a great little very accurate shooter for indoor plinking.

                      PCP stuff is on the way,…. so that will keep me busy for a long time to come.

                    • BD76,

                      On Daisy,…… the parts were ordered Monday and were in the mailbox Wed., (today). It don’t get any better than that!

                  • Chris,USA
                    Well it sounds like the 499 is not meant to be tinkered with at least as far as the trigger is concerned. But then they are likely about as good as can be for the design and intended use plus you have a new trigger on it way so no real need to worry over it.

                    but once you get the new trigger installed then you have the old one to dissect and see if any improvements can be made successfully.

                    Yea when you get the PCP stuff it will be hard to play with much else.


        • Thank you very much I hope the screws are locally available to me. The 7mm bolt they use for the SASS is not available and had to be fabricated by a machinist.

          • Siranko
            I do hope you can find some screws the correct size as well since you will be so much happier with your gun if you can get the trigger adjusted to the crisp and clean release it is capable of.

            Let me know if you cannot find any and I will send you the ones BB has now or arrange for him to just send those to you if he is willing to do so.


            • BD

              Thanks for the offer but I will make an effort to find it locally. Considering the distance those screws will have to travel (literally half a world away) before they can get to me I am flattered. I will find a way to get the right screws locally.

              • Siranko
                I hope you can find some but if you cannot my offer still stands and they could go twice around the world for all I care as long as they end up in your hands is what truly matters.

                Let me know if you need them.


                  • Siranko
                    I am seeing a doc and he has given me melatonin to help me sleep and is now trying to find the right dose to work for me but I am at the max of 30mg and still no luck. I can take actual sleeping pills but then feel like I am constantly drunk and non functional so its better to be exhausted and alert than rested and in a stupor all the time in my opinion.

                    I truly believe it is a combination of all the meds I have to take for my multiple health issue that are fighting each other to keep my body at odds with itself. Try 25 pills per day every day for my heart, lungs, arthritis, stomach, back, hormones and blood pressure just to name a few as I cannot even keep up anymore with all that is falling apart everyday I go on.

                    If this is the golden years I want my simple silver or bronze years back.

                    let me know on the screws.


  5. B.B.,

    I’ll second Yogi’s comment and say you need an assistant. We all appreciate everything you do (from the end result aspect), but maybe don’t appreciate the amount of time it takes to get it there. Thank you.

    I like the “tune” aspect of things and making something that is stock, perform better. My trigger experience is limited other than adjusting pull weights and the “Yankee tune” on the LGU first stage. Oh yea, the trigger stops through the rear of the trigger guards on both the TX and LGU, but those don’t really count, as that is all external.

    At any rate, with my limited experience, I (write down) all amounts of turns, both in and out. For someone that is unfamiliar with trigger adjusting, at least if things do not work out, they can at least go back to a (known) start point.

  6. BB and Buldawg,

    Thanks for putting in the time and effort to show us this. There are quite a few Hatsans out there that will benefit from this blog today. This should help with the accuracy immensely. I remember when I installed the GRT3 trigger in my Gamo CFX I was then able to learn to shoot it with superb accuracy.

    • RR
      Installing the screws in the trigger on the spring Hatsan’s make the trigger like a completely different gun and I don’t know if the GRTIII trigger you installed in your Gamo was just installed as received with the screws set to what they say are correct or if you actually took the time to adjust it properly to your gun.

      If you just installed it as received then you need to fine tune it as well since it can be adjusted to rival any TX or HW trigger just as the Hatsan triggers can be.

      I have several Crosman’s with GRTIII triggers in them and as received they are mediocre at best but with some fine tuning they are as good a trigger as my B40, D48 T01 trigger and FWB 124s and close to the 300s but not quite that good.


      • BD,

        The CFX went away a long time ago. I did indeed adjust it and it was superb. I do not know if it would rival that of the T01 on the 46E I am playing with right now, but it was so much better than it was originally.

        Because of CharlieDaTuna’s aftermarket triggers I have been tempted to buy a Crosman, but I do not wish to encourage Crosman to continue to make mediocre air rifles with my purchase of such.

        If I happen to pick up a used one at a decent price, at least I know how to fix it.

        • RR
          I know what you mean about supporting crosman on selling the same old thing in a different wrapper and the break barrels I have were all bought used for less than half the cost of new so they indeed are way over priced.

          I have a D48 with the T01 trigger and I can say the GRTIII trigger is to me anyway with my limited feeling in my fingertips as good as the t01 trigger is once adjusted correctly as well as my B40/TX clone and FWB 124s triggers. the only guns I have with trigger’s that are far superior to all my other guns are the 300s but that’s a whole different class of gun completely.

          I am thinning my herd and the crosmans will be the first to go for sure.


    • Michael
      I would welcome the opportunity to consult/design as long as I can do it from sweet home Alabama.

      I worked 11 years for Harley at a research and development facility right next to Talladega superspeedway as a durability mechanic in which I was responsible for maintaining and diagnosing any and all issues that the test riders reported with the prototype bikes we tested and had no service manual or instruction as to how anything was designed or built since we tested 2 to 4 years ahead of the current production vehicles being sold to the public.

      I had to use my 25 years as a GM ( Cadillac ) technicians experience to allow me to take things apart and figure out what failed and the best way to correct the issue. I have been an ASE master certified technician for 45 years as well as GM master tech and Harley master tech.

      I can and never will be satisfied with out of the box performance and if it can be made better in any way I will figure out how to do so to my extremely high standards of perfection.


      • Buldawg,

        Manufacturers should seek out people like you who are not satisfied with compromised, “stock” performance. At the very least, whenever it comes to something that is not prohibitively costly (such as screws that are a little longer), “hot-rofdders” such as you should be the folks who are allowed to make the call.

        Again,. good work.


        • Michael
          I do appreciate the vote of confidence and appreciation for my work ethics and the fact that it can always be made better.

          I only wish it were that simple in real life in the manufacturing world. If it does not cost to much then it needs to happen is just never going to happen. I know the trigger thing with Hatsan is entirely based on liability issues and nothing else since by installing the longer screws from the factory will allow a unexperienced person to create a very unsafe trigger that will fire on its own when cocked without any input from the operator if set incorrectly. So by only installing screws long enough to get a decent trigger but incapable of being set to light that it can fire on its own they avoid any possibilities of a lawsuit hence the term ” lawyers trigger “. Hatsan is so worried about such lawsuits that they refuse to even sell any trigger parts for any of their guns to an anyone and require the gun be returned to them for repair whether in warranty or not. I have tried to by some safety parts and was told with no hesitation that they would not be sold to me period. But they make several guns for Walther and Ruger and so on that use the exact parts and actual triggers since the guns are just rebranded Hatsan’s. So the parts I needed just happened to also fit a Umarex Walther Talon and a simple call to Umarex I was happily sold the parts I needed with out question or hesitations by them and fixed my safety issue with identical parts to what Hatsan would have provided if they were not so concerned with lawsuits.

          I myself refuse to let anyone work on my guns, cars, bikes or any other item that I can fix myself since I have major trust issues as to the job being done to my standards of excellence by other people that in todays world have no pride in what they do or the products they create in my opinion.

          Its all about the almighty dollar and nothing else. All my years as a vehicle technician/mechanic I had other peoples live put in my hands with every job I did so I chose to repair the jobs I was given as if it was my vehicle and family that would be in that vehicle driving down the road. In the 25 years as a GM technician my comeback rate for repairs I performed was never over 2% with the national average at or above 25% for any given year. When at Harley the test riders lives were in my hands with every repair I performed on the bikes they tested on a 24/7 basis since we tested in all weather except when visibility was below 50 feet or the roads were iced over so it could be 10 degrees outside at 3 am in the morning and our riders were on bikes testing inside the superspeedway.

          I had a huge influence on the development of the V-rod motorcycle in every aspect of its development from the first prototype bike all the way to the release of the first publically sold unit in 2001. I took great pride in my work and interaction with engineers to insure that all issue were corrected and reported to the very best of my ability. It was the best job I ever had and would still be there today if they had not moved all testing to Arizona in 09 when the economy tanked and all 110 employee’s were laid off.


  7. Springers need the best trigger they can get. It’s so frustrating when you get a perfect sight picture and the shot is off because of a hard trigger pull. My xs46u is really an accurate gun but that hard single stage trigger makes it really frustrating to try to shoot accurately.
    I’m glad to see that the Crosman Custom Shop is offering a 1377 carbine but I’m really interested in a
    wood stock option with the marauder trigger because I’d like to shoot the gun for Hunter Field Target. I’d even go for a synthetic stock if they could adapt one.

    • Brent
      I have a couple 60C PCPs as well as QBs that have basically the same trigger as the 46U has and with some TLC and adjustment they can be made quite nice.

      If your has the stamped steel trigger blade that pivots on it own pin with a light spring tension before it actually moves the trigger itself it van be made to have a faux two stage feel to it with a crisp release. there should be two screws inside the trigger housing that limit the length of the sear engagement between the trigger blade and sear and another screw that limits the overtravel after the sear releases. then you have a screw at the rear of the outside of the trigger housing that is to adjust the triggers pull weight.

      If you remove the side cover on the trigger housing you can see the trigger and sear contact surface amount. You can set the sears to simulate firing by using a small screwdriver and rotate the sear that catches the hammer to set it like it would be when cocked without actually having to cock and fire the gun. Then adjust the sear engagement screw ( screw closest to the compression tube ) till you have about 1/16′ of contact between the trigger blade and sear and test the release by pulling the trigger to insure it releases the sear. Then adjust the overtravel screw so that with the trigger pulled completely to the rear there is about 1/32″ clearance between the trigger and the sear to insure there is no dragging on the sear by the trigger blade when pulled during firing. Then adjust the pull weight screw to the amount of pull you are comfortable with but not so light that it does not set the sear fully and hold it when cocked.

      Then when you are happy with the settings take the gun outside and loaded it with the barrel in a safe direction in case you have set it to light or not enough sear contact so if it fires on its own no one or nothing will be damaged. If it does not fire then again with the muzzle in a safe direction rap the side of the stock and butt end of the stock hard with the palm of your hand to insure it will not discharge if dropped or banged accidently and if it does not fire then test the adjustment by shooting to see if its how you want it or if you need to fine tune some more.

      I have mine set so they act like a two stage trigger with a very light crisp release that in no way affect my ability to hold on target and shoot them very accurately.

      If you need any more clarification feel free to ask.


  8. Well I guess I will weigh in. Bulldawg76 has offered very detailed information on this subject. The pcp quattro does seem to differ in “pivoting geometry” as bdawg has said. For less than experienced fingers the springer version can seem unusual to pull especially during a session where one is trying to get familiar by trying dif techniques etc. Pull weight and “feel” can certainly vary. I have also found that when left at the original settings (us version) these small differences can really change grip tension, pressure varying throughout the trigger hand and other small nuances in ones form. (Me personally due to the heavy trigger weight)

    I was able to construct my own new screw a while back and will attest to the dramatic difference. I feel personally my follow through is much more consistent. Accuracy has improved some but there are many other variables at play to draw any conclusions. At the top is my inexperience as a shooter. I was able to achieve acceptable results with only replacing the screw furthest from the trigger. I may create another to replace the length of stage screw. I have heard that careless adjustment can lead to a very unsafe gun by keeping the sear contact to a minimum? I have left my trigger slightly heavier than my savage rimfire with accutrigger. The savage is close to 3.5lbs although never officially measured. That is light enough for now and if I want something better I get out my Diana 36.

  9. Man I thought I was only copying the link about triggers.

    Scroll down past the article about the zr scope mount. That is the first article. The second article is about triggers. Lot of good info.

    If you want to delete it t BB go ahead. Then I’ll just try to post the link about triggers.

    • GF1
      I believe I posted the link to the LGU tune for Chris,USA awhile back and possibly the trigger one as well but cannot say for sure but all very good info indeed and Hector does know his stuff and has helped me with some of my tuning of spring guns as well.

      I have been talking with him recently on tunes for both my B40 and D48 in terms of just what they are actually capable of producing in terms of power as well as pellet weights. He has said that the B40/TX does not have the swept volume to shoot a 10.34 gr pellet at anywhere near 890/900 fps I am after regardless of spring or tune in it and the only platform that is truly capable of shooting 10.34s at that speed is the D48 platforms. The B40/TX is capable of shooting an 8.44 at close to 850 or slightly above that but with a much harsher shot cycle than if shooting at 850 to 840 fps range.

      My B40 shoots 8.44s at 820/830 right now with the out of round chamber and he says that is an ideal velocity to be very effective for FT with it so just going to install the new NOS chamber I found and what I get is what it will be and just enjoy it.


      • BD
        Did I just hear you say what I thought you said?
        “so just going to install the new NOS chamber I found and what I get is what it will be and just enjoy it.”

        Never thought I would hear that from you about something. Your “always” changing something around.

        And you know I’m just mess’n with ya.

        • GF1
          Well you know I say that but it likely will not happen as I am never satisfied as you very well know but I do believe Hector when he says the B40/TX will not and is not capable of shooting in the 18.5 fpe range no matter what you do unless you tune it to diesel with every shot by burning lube from inside the action and that is not going to happen in my guns.

          So if I can get the mid 800s with 8.44s out of it I will just shoot it and see if it does as I want and if not then its time to go and put that money in my fund for a new gun.


          • BD
            And you know you had that for a while if I remember right.

            And I’m patiently waiting for some results to see what happens.

            By the way. Did you ever get your valve situation figured out for your .25 Mrod?

            • GF1
              Yea I actually have had a TX piston and chamber for a good while and just in the last month called Mike Melick about some part for my 60Cs and just for the heck of it asked about B40 parts which as it turns out he has a shelf full of NOS parts for them so I got a chamber, cocking arm, cocking shoe and breech seals for pennies on the dollar.

              I know I have been down and out health wise to some extent right now and cannot seem to get motivated to get the things I need done since sleep for me is a commodity I no little about anymore. The melatonin pills my doc gave me are not doing a thing as I am up to 7 pills tonight and as you see am still wide awake.

              I have not heard back from Cothran machine as to when the valves will be ready so may just end up putting the Gen 1 valve I have heavily modified in for now to just tune and see what it is capable of doing until the Cothran valves are available.

              I still have my two QBs apart also needing some work to finish them as well so just got to get my butt in gear and get er done. I also need to tear into that benji 720 I have for a customer to get a parts list together to fix it so just way to many irons in the fire now and then had that address crap hit me Friday as well. But as of May 21st I will no longer have a home phone so 911 can just guess as to where I live in an emergency. I have put my so called new address into the GPs system and I now live in the middle of a field 1/2 mile from here so they would never find me anyway. Like I am going to trust my life to a undertrained EMT making 10 bucks an hour in the first place, not in this lifetime that’s for sure.


              • BD
                Yep I know. We talked about all that stuff.

                Except you never mentioned that you talked to Mike about those parts. But that’s nice that you have those now.

                And hopefully you will get the other stuff straightened out.

                • GF1
                  I thought I had mentioned to you in a text about getting the new parts for the B40 from Mike when I bought the 60C fill fittings and a new trigger assy from him. He is such a great person and as I said got all the parts ( some free ) for pennies on the dollar as compared to what I paid for the TX parts over a year ago.

                  Now that I know he does not get rid of his old stock I will contact him first to see if he has the NOS parts I need for my Chinese guns..

                  Yea I am really trying to get back in the groove but things are just not cooperating with me right now. I finally went to sleep about 5am this morning and am just now getting up so my bodys time clock is totally out of whack and cannot seem to get it turned around so that I feel rested and energized like I used to regardless of what I do or the meds I try to help me shut my mind off.


                  • BD
                    You probably did tell me. I can’t remember everything anymore like I use to.

                    And sounds like your going to be talking to your doctor again. I know I had a heck of a time getting my sleep pattern switched around when I came off of working 3rd shift for about 2 years. Hard to break when you get use to something.

                    • GF1
                      Yea I have the same issue myself and lucky I can remember where I live anymore not that the county is making it any easier as well.

                      I just talked to another neighbor about the address issue and he said the city I live in has posted a thread on Facebook that the county has jumped the gun and for people not to do anything yet as there may be no changes occurring. So just have to wait and see but he has no home phone so 911 will not help him at all. I know until I get mail here that has the so called new address already on it I am not changing a thing.

                      Yea I go back to the doc in a couple weeks and will see what he wants to try next.


      • BD76,

        Hector was the one that gave me the idea about the LGU muzzle weights. Plus I did the “Yankee Tune”. Good guy and good site. Limited in some ways, but very detailed stuff. I have not been there in awhile, but as I remember, a good site for a behind the scenes look at the professional field target world.

        • Chris,USA
          Hector is indeed a dedicated person and in the sport to improve it for all and freely provides valuable info and directions to help us achieve the best we can in our guns.

          I remember you contacting him and the debate over buying a rowan trigger or doing his Yankee tune on it. Its people like that who makes this hobby the fun it is.


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