by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
Sig Sauer Spartan BB pistol offers a lot of pistol at a budget price.
This report covers:
- Install the CO2 cartridge
- Velocity with Daisy BBs
- Air Venturi Copper-Plated BBs
- H&N Smart Shot lead BBs
- Trigger pull
- Shot count
- Evaluation so far
Today we look at the velocity of the Sig Spartan BB pistol. The specs rate it at 410 f.p.s. Today we find out. I will also comment on things like the blowback and the trigger. Let’s get started.
Install the CO2 cartridge
The first step is to put a fresh CO2 cartridge in the gun. It goes into the grip, of course. Lift off the left grip panel and then pull the mainspring housing from the back of the grip. That is the lower flat part of the grip that’s has a coarse raised pattern in the metal for a better grip. In the 1911 firearm, it houses the mainspring, but on this BB pistol it’s the lever that pierces the CO2 cartridge.
You will notice that there is a roller bearing at the bottom of the CO2 compartment. When the mainspring housing is pulled out, that moves out of the way. Once the cartridge is in the gun, the mainspring housing is pressed back in place — flat against the gun. The roller goes in and forces the cartridge up into the hollow piercing pin. Just be careful with this because it can be a pinch point.
That roller at the bottom of the CO2 chamber is connected to the piercing linkage. As it rolls back into the grip it pushes the cartridge up against the piercing pin.
The piercing pin is a hollow tube that a lot of CO2 pistols use these days. The face washer, however, is very thick and robust-looking. It looks like it should last a long time. Just remember to put a drop of Crosman Pellgunoil on the tip of each new cartridge, when you install it.
The piercing pin on the Spartan is hollow and is surrounded by a thick face washer that looks like it should last a long time!
Velocity with Daisy BBs
First to be tested were Daisy Premium Grade BBs. As I loaded them I noted some things about the stick magazine. First, there is a notch at the bottom to catch and hold the spring-loaded follower. Some BB mags don’t have this and you have to use one of your hands to hold the follower down during loading.
The other thing I noticed is there is a loading hole on the back side of the mag. A lot of stick mags force you to load them at the top where the BB will come out. This is a great feature!
Ten Daisy BBs averaged 376 f.p.s. I waited a minimum of 10 seconds between shots, but the velocity still dropped continuously from the first shot at 403 f.p.s. until the 9th shot at 362 f,.p.s. That one was a 1 f.p.s. increase over shot 8. The total spread went from 351 to 403 f.p.s, so a max of 52 f.p.s.
The recoil ranged from very aggressive in the beginning to average as the velocity decreased. At its most aggressive I would rate it as the same as a .22 rimfire pistol, which is very heavy for an airgun.
Air Venturi Copper-Plated BBs
Next up were Air Venturi Copper-Plated BBs. They no longer seem to be available, but I’m sure they aren’t much different than Air Venturi Zinc-Plated BBs. The pistol didn’t record on the first shot, so the first number I recorded was 390 f.p.s. I think the gun was still cool from the first string. There is no reason this BB is any slower than the Daisys.
As before the velocity dropped steadily with each shot. This time there was no rebound. Shot 10 went out at 339 f.p.s. So the spread went from 339 to 390 f.p.s., a range of 51 f.p.s, over 10 shots. And I waited 10 seconds minimum between all shots.
H&N Smart Shot lead BBs
Last to be tested were H&N Smart Shot lead BBs. They are about 50 percent heavier than the steel BBs so we expect slower velocity from them and, indeed, we got it. From the first shot at 333 f.p.s. to the last at 267 f.p.s. the velocity declined with each shot once more. The spread was 66 f.p.s.
I told you in part one that the trigger pull feels like two stages, even though this is a single action pistol that should have a single stage trigger. That first stage is undoubtedly just a little slop in the trigger linkage.
The trigger releases at 5 lbs. 13 oz. The release is reasonably crisp and I think I can do good work with this one. It’s very reminiscent of the trigger on the 1911A1 firearm — especially if it’s a Series 80 pistol.
By this point in the test I had fired a total of 37 shots from the CO2 cartridge. I then loaded a full magazine (16 shots) of Daisy BBs and registered the velocities. Here is that string.
1……………..326 (this is shot 38 from the start)
6……………..Did not register
11……………201 Failed to cock
I stopped the test at this point. I got about 40 useable shots from one CO2 cartridge in this test. That will vary a little from cartridge to cartridge and will also be affected by the temperature at which you shoot. My office was 73 degrees.
Evaluation so far
I purposely did not read the review of the Max Michel pistol, as we acknowledged this one is so close. But after the velocity test I did go back and see that the two pistols are practically identical. I even said the same things about the trigger!
The Spartan seems to use a lot of gas per shot. That must be to power the heavy metal slide for blowback.
I like the crispness of the trigger and the feel of the grip safety. I don’t care for the extra button on the manual safety, though.
Next it’s accuracy. If this pistol can shoot it will move up higher in my ratings.
94 thoughts on “Sig Sauer Spartan BB pistol: Part 2”
Are any lubricants mixed in with the co2 when it’s encapsulated, or is it pure dry gas?
There are CO2 cartridges with oil inside. But you have to buy them special and they cost more. A drop of Pellgunoil is the best solution.
Sorry to go off topic guys but I just got a GREAT DEAL on a pre ban HBAR. We in CT are only allowed to own pre ban guns and as you might expect when sellers see CT they know you have very limited options. Anyway an FFL from the midwest took pity on me and the gun arrives Sat. to my local FFL. If I was 20 or 30 years younger I’d be jumping for joy 😉
Kevin in CT
Congrats sounds like its gonna be a fun weekend in Ct.
Congratulations. A good AR is a fine rifle. They can be accurate and reliable. And the aftermarket is the largest in all of gun-dom.
Thanks Guys!! The other 1/2 of the story is that I also have a very cherry S&W M29 coming in. Made in the early 70’s 6.5 inch with pinned bbl. recessed chambers, etc. The rub now is to find what S&W calls a “Combat Trigger” for this thing. I generally fire these DA most of the time ( Hey It Works For Harry Callahan) and the combat trigger is smooth so your finger kinda glides over it and doesn’t pull the sight one way or the other in DA firing.
So I’ve wondered after looking at the cartridge piercing system on my Colt Commander, and Colt Peacemaker how much of the drop of oil on the carrridge tip actually makes it into the gun as the piercing tube is very small, is there anotherway to get oil into the internals of the gun on occasion.
There is 900 psi pushing the oil into your gun. Most of it makes it inside.
Over time it builds — to a point. But the gas also blows the oil out with every shot. So the lubrication becomes self-sustaining.
I’m thinking Pelgun oil with a needle applicator tip so you could drop some directly into the piercing tube. May be a drop on the cartridge is sufficient for non action pistols, but with the additional reciprocating parts of the action type guns they might benifit from additional lubrication.
It doesn’t have to be that difficult. Believe me, it works this way.
Off topic: Will Tropical Storm (or, maybe, Hurricane) Harvey affect the Texas Airgun Show?
I doubt it.
That is good to hear. Being from Louisiana, my inclination is to drive aware from a hurricane not toward it.
B.B. Sorry I can’t help being an over thinker. On another unrelated note here is a pic of my campfire cooking set up. Two grills, one for warming, a pot hook,and an oven /smoker. Should have the rotisserie done this weekend.
I have over 15 CO2 guns and I follow BB’s advice on the Pellgunoil. With that many guns and an inclination to tear everything I see apart to understand how it works, you can imagine how many times I’ve gazed into their bowels. Trust me when I tell you that plenty of oil gets in there. If you have a good sniffer you should even be able to smell it as it exits the barrel on the first few shots. IMO, putting it on the mouth of the cartridge also supplies the needed conditioning to the seal around the piercing pin.
Yes I get it, I just have had a lot of problems with my Colt Commander cycling and have been more than a little frustrated with it.
No the ring is an old manhole ring I finally found at a scrap yard. It fit my existing fire pit perfectly and works great.
The reason I put a drop on the head of the Co2 cartridge is so it lubes the seal. Sometimes the cartridge spins as your tightening it down on the peircing pin.
I want the cartridge to move smoothly as it’s getting peirced to eliminate the chance of ruining the seal.
Plus introduce some lube inside the gun for the internal seals. But yes BB is right it will distribute the oil into the gun.
Right I definitely feel that oil on the cartridge tip is important I guess I felt like if 1 drop is good 10 might be better. But over kill isn’t alway the best way.
No I think too much is not good either.
Then you saturate everything and shots will be sparatic.
Look at my reply below and the target I show.
Definitely makes a difference when you lube. It takes a bit to get the gun stabilized after lubing. So no don’t over lube.
OK, I am confused. I can’t seam to find an address for the Pyramyd Air Cup Show. Have not found a link on the Pyramyd website. I saw a link in yesterdays blog that says the event will be held at the Tusco Rifle Club in New Philadelphia, Ohio 44663. I googled the Tusco Rifle Club and found it to be at 2132 Midvale Mine Rd SE, Dennison, OH 44621. What is up??? I am surprised that Pryamyd Air has no link (that I have found yet) on their website for directions or info.
Go to the top of this page. Look at the links on the right side. The Cup is the second from the top.
Here it is
And nice setup. I like.
Very nice. The best Pizza I ever made was homemade and done on an open fire pit like that,.. albeit a bit more primitive. That looks like an ideal set up for that. From the picture,… I would say that enjoy cooking and eat very well! 😉
Yes open fire pizza is popular here too, it makes the crust nice and crispy.
OK, so where is the Tusco Rifle club? ….no address that I can see.
You discover that it’s at the Tusco Rifle club, and you Google that and find this:
P.O. Box 631
New Philadelphia, Ohio 44663
Then, on their directions to the club link, there is a map
OK, thank you.
PA has a sale on Benjamin Trail NP2. I read your 6 Part review of two of these guns and the last one ended with your intention to test further. Did you ever do that? The gun I’m looking at has a Centerpoint 3-9×40 AO scope which is the scope that you used in your review. At that time you said that it had been discontinued, so I’m curious if this is the same scope, if you know.
Nope, I never did. I guess after 6 tests I grew tired of it.
Off subject,.. but on Opinel knives,… I went to a now defunct store today in hopes of having one in hand. Hand feel is more important than blade size. That said, the Opinel site list blade lengths,.. which from I can gather handle length (via scaling on the laptop screen). From that, I can compare to what knives I already have.
My question: Is the blade length listed the (exposed) blade?
The listed lengths are for the (standard) carbon and stainless versions. Any help would be appreciated as I am looking at having to order something on line.
I like the number 8 the best.
Thank you. I see the 8-to-10 as being optimal. The synthetic line has my eye. Heck, for the price, the 10 pc. set looks tempting! The Slim Line looks good too. Kind of like the classic “Texas Toothpick”,… Opinel style. 😉
Got to post this target. Think it might prove to be some good info I hope.
And first off I did take one warm up shot at a steel spinner to get each gun up to speed so to speak.
The HW30s and FWB 300 both shot normal. And this is all 10 shot group’s at 50 yards. The Tx was definitely off on it’s first group at the upper right target.
So I did my normal drops of RWS silicone oil in the barrel and in the transfer port hole. Now check out the 10 shot group on the left middle target. Gun shot sparatic as can be. Then I shot 10 more shots at the target in the middle. That group tightened up a bit but still was not normal.
Now look at the next 10 shot string to the right of the middle target. Now the gun is more back to normal.
I leave it at that and see what you think.
HW30s and FWB 300 had a 6 mph cross wind from the left to right.
The Tx the wind was calm on all shots. Maybe a 2 mph head wind.
Oh and forgot.
The pulled shot on the FWB 300 was from me breaking my own rule.
Trigger finger is not suppose to be on or by the trigger when positioning the gun.
I just about got the reticle level and bumped the trigger. And the trigger is very very light on the FWB 300. So I know better.
See what happens when I don’t pay attention.
Ok I see what your saying, I never would have thought that over lubing would cause that.
If you look at the group on the middle row and to the left. The first group shot after I lubed.
Look at the gray lead outline on the pellet holes. Then look at the next 10 shot group to the right. The grey outline around the pellet hole is fading. You can pretty well tell what my first shots were at in that 10 shot group and my last shots.
Then look at the last 10 shot group to the right in the middle row. Them holes are almost clean. That is how I clean my barrels. I never put a cleaning brush down the barrel. But now as I shoot more the group should tighten up more.
It’s probably been about 2000 shots since the last time it got lubed. But that’s the first thing I do is lube if I see my groups grow out of the normal.
It does. The shots go “wild” for a few. I would not say “over lubing” either. Just a matter of giving things,.. “a bit of refreshment”.
Nice shooting, but where’s the dime? 🙂
I usually put my aluminum Wisconsin made yard stick in the picture but forgot.
And I shot these groups of ten after supper. It was actually getting dark out so didn’t have good sight of the target. But here’s with the yard stick and you can definitely tell what gun always shoots well.
Ok it works today. Here is the 35 yard groups with the Wisconsin yard stick.
Oh and that is 35 yards instead of 50 like the other picture I posted earlier.
Probably could of done better than that with the Tx and HW30s but was hurrying my shots cause I knew it was getting dark.
Looks to be good shooting.
Certainly you used the same pellets in all 3 TX groups. Did you use your artillery hold for this rifle? Is it hold sensitive? I take it that you did not lube the other 2 rifles since their groups were normal. I’m curious to know if you have tried dry brushing with a brass bristle followed by a couple of felt pellets. I have a couple of 22’s that like this cleaning when accuracy starts to wain.
Interesting comments backed up with evidence.
I did clean my air guns with a brass brush long ago. Basically going by when I use to shoot Firearms alot growing up. But found that a few drops of silicone oil down the barrel every now and then did better.
Firearms you have to get that gritty burnt powder out of the barrel along with the lead mixed in from the bullet. Alot more harder particles in a firearm barrel than a air gun barrel.
And no I don’t usually use the artillery hold bench resting any air gun. For one thing that is very uncomfortable for me to lay my hand on the bag then the gun. Even when I stand shooting unsupported. I grip the gun tight with my forehand making kind of a (U) shape with my hand with my fingers on one side and thumb on the other.
And no the Tx is usually not at all hold sensitive. I can even set it in my bag and only using my trigger hand to hold the gun. Or take my forehand and rest it on the scope.
And usually the Tx shoots better than the HW30s but not as good as the FWB 300. Right now I opened up a older tin of JSB 15.89’s for the Tx and some of the pellet have flash down the side of the pellet from the die. Makes me think it was a newer die or something they stamped this bunch with. But they ain’t quite shooting like they usually do.
So going to try a different tin of some more recent pellets I got. But all in all I can still hit my spinners and feild target sqerrials out to 50 yards with them. But definitely got to check into it some more now.
Thanks for the treasure trove of information. Like discovering a hidden compartment in an old antique desk and knowing there is something in it.
Now you have me leaning toward getting a Tx. I know it is not under $500 but any springer that can out shoot a HW30s on average for accuracy gets my attention. But your venue is different. I can now shoot at 25 yards thanks to understanding neighbors but still do lots of 10 meter shooting. You are not limited by space. Question is can your Tx compete with your HW30s at 25 yards and under? Also do you have an LGU or an LGV and if so are they as accurate?
Your comments on holds will get me experimenting. I keep records (docs) on my daily shooting sessions and the list of variables just got larger.
Think your HW30s is somewhat new. Do you plan to put a drop or two of silicone oil down the barrel should accuracy begin to struggle? Or is the velocity low enough to prefer Pellgun oil?
Thanks again for your help.
Yes have lubed the HW30s, FWB 300 and now the Tx recently.
And both the .177 Tx and .22 Tx will out shoot the HW30s. A d I had a .22 LGU that Chris now has that would also out shoot the HW30s.
But my mode FWB 300 that shoots higher velocity now always out performs the other guns i just mentioned.
And yes I say that all the guns I mentioned are accurate. Even the HW30s.
Just went back and read BB’s accuracy test comparing TX111 vs FWB300. He pointed out the latter is really a 10 meter rifle and the TX is a long range rifle. But your mod (souped up) FWB300 still wins at 50 yards! Just wondering if it can outshoot a Marauder pcp at 50 yards? Maybe so since your FWB is not hold sensitive.
I don’t have the targets anymore or the Marauders anymore. But yes I did have this FWB 300 back when I had a .25 and .177 Marauder. And yes the FWB 300 would out shoot the Marauders at 50 yards.
I think it’s more deeper than recoil that makes the FWB 300 a good shooter. The trigger is part of why along with the barrel being better I’m thinking. Plus they are more of solid or rigid design I believe than a Marauder.
And I had two FWB 300’s at the same time. The one I have now. And a complete as it comes from the factory one. The factory one would do almost cried as well as this modified one I have now or at 50 yards. But it needed to be calm out. Just not enough power to keep the pellet stabilized and on course.
So yep power does make the difference. But the trick is the right amount of power for the distance and what your shooting at be it a target or a pest.
Feinwerkbau’s Sport Air Rifle is a metal springer I think. Claims 850 fps in .177 and I’m wondering if it may be an improvement on the “stock” FWB 300 at middle distances.
If not maybe you should get into the air rifle design business.
Thanks for this very interesting response.
I wish you could post a link about the FWB your talking about.
And I’m just doing all this for fun.
But I can say that I actually have been involved in making several air gun related products happen in the last 5 or so years.
But again. Just have’n fun and thanks for the words. 🙂
Pyramyd Air has it.
I remember it now. BB did a report on it when it came out. It actually didn’t do well if I remember right.
And no that is a complete opposite gun than a FWB 300. The 300 has a slide anti recoil slide system. And a ultimate match grade trigger.
Believe me. The FWB 300 is a fabulous gun.
My LGU, from Gunfun1, out shoots my TX 200 on a consistent basis. Both .22. The LGU is stock and the TX has a HO Vortek kit in it.
This fellow prefers the LGU to the TX. I has been awhile since I corresponded with him, but he is solid and has a pretty good site with lots of detailed reads.
Let’s see if I repost the target if it will show up correctly today.
I have never heard of cleaning like that, yes I saw the gray around the holes in your center groups. How do you know when to clean? Is it time,number of shots , or performance i.e. accuracy that lets you know you need to clean ?
Like Chris said. It’s not over lubing.
Basically it’s to help get the lead dust out of the barrel. It’s just what happens when you lube the barrel. You have to shoot to get the lube and dust out in a sense. When that’s happening the fit and friction is not the same with the pellet to the barrel. So it has to get back to a stable state.
And another thing that’s why I like JSB and Air Arms pellets. I like the softer lead. It seems to help the barrel not get built up with lead.
And like I said in my reply above. The group’s wee starting to get bigger from the Tx than normal. Plus I knew it has been about 2000 shots since the last time I lubed the barrel.
And also I don’t keep lubing the barrel if accuracy keeps going away. That means a seal or spring or even a valve seal on a PCP could be going bad. Likewise on a multi-pump or Co2 gun. I don’t just keep lubing if the gun doesn’t come back and shoot like I know it should.
That’s why I say you have to spend a reasonable amount of time with a gun to get to know it’s characteristics in all aspects.
Interesting I thought the softer pellets would lead up the barrel more and faster. You can definitely tell that Crosman pellets are harder and that what I shoot a lot because I’m a pellet hoarder and they shoot ok in most of my guns. So maybe I need to clean my barrels.
Just the opposite. Soft lead pellets and bullets leave less lead in the barrel than hard lead pellets and bullets. Just ask any handloader which bullets lead up their handguns faster. They will tell you bullets that have been hardened with antimony.
Ok, such a thing as too much lube, soft lead accumulates more, it’s all so very counterintuitive !
I mean hard lead accumulates more I can’t get over that really.
Think of it like this. Pure soft lead is self lubricating because of its malleability. Hard lead smears because of the nature of the antimony it’s alloyed with. If it were alloyed with tin it could be harder (but never as hard as with antimony) yet not smear as much. But tin is very expensive, so we try to use very little of it.
Ok, that makes sense it’s like soft lead is prelubed in a way, so it slips down the barrel easier leaving less material along the way. Harder lead grabs the barrel because of increased friction leaving deposits behind. I’m getting it thank you!
Like BB said.
Try shooting hard pellets at a steel spinner. They usually break up like shrapnel. Then take the same gun and shoot a softer pellet at the steel spinner. It will usually flatten out like aluminum foil. Really that thin.
So with the softer pellet the lead trys to stay together. The hard lead wants to break apart. So basically the harder pellet is actually easier to scrape the lead from the pellet. The softer pellet just kind of smears in a sense and stays attached to the pellet.
Seriously shoot at some steel spinners and see what happens.
Here’s a older short video of random caliber pellets picked up from by my steel spinner.
Awesome way to explain and demonstrate.
Not a very good bright video of the pellets. But all I had right now.
And as it goes. Isn’t amazing how deep you can get into a subject and find there is so much to learn.kind of makes it harder at times the more you learn than easier.
I’m pretty sure that BB has stated that the whole leading with hard pellets really only comes into play at higher velocities. I don’t recall off hand what speed that is but I do remember that it is unlikely for a co2 gun to reach it. (800ft/sec ish?) So you can probably still use those Crosman pellets in some of your guns without effect.
Yes, at the higher velocities (800 f.p.s. — ish).
That’s true. But the thing is the lead dust will accumulate in the barrel. Not so much to do with hardness and velocity. That’s a different situation.
You know how some people cover up the name of a silencer by calling it a lead dust collector or a LDC.
Don’t remember if you have a Marauder or not. But you should see the gray film all over the baffles if you take the shroud end cap off and take them out. Yes I know that the Marauder rifles usually shoot up at that higher fps. But I also had a low tuned and a high velocity tuned Crosman 1720T. And even the low tuned gun that was shooting at 650 fps had the lead dust in the baffles.
What you should try since you have all those Co2 guns that shoot lower fps. Run a cleaning cloth down the barrel and open it up after you get it out of the barrel. I think you will be surprised what you find.
Do you clean your pellets too. If you don’t , I think you’ll find that much of that stuff is the preservative that is put on the pellets to prevent them from turning white with oxidation. I worried about it for a while, then read here that I shouldn’t and that it would come back after a hand full of shots. I am a born skeptic so I tried cleaning thoroughly then shooting fifty shots then cleaning again. The crude came back. I did this with a Diana 52 and a Gamo Coyote SE, both in .177 and in some of my lower powered CO2 guns. Same “dirt” in each case. I usually end up with a pretty good smear of it on my thumb and index finger just from loading. I had my boss’s 5 year old taste it and she said it didn’t taste like lead to her. JUST KIDDIN’ on that last part.
Believe it or not I use to sort pellets for head skirt and waist size and overall length, weigh them, clean them and even tryed lubing them. That’s way back when I bought Crosman Premier pellets by the lot in the brown box’s. And yes I tryed other brand pellets too.
Then started shooting H&N pellets and started having better shooting results. And that was doing what I just mentioned.
Then started shooting the JSB pellets and found the above wasn’t needed anymore. That’s when I found if accuracy started going away a few drops of silicone oil in the barrel would bring the accuracy back.
And yes that is with multi-pump, Co2, pcp’s and springers. It’s definitely something I haven’t learned recently. Been doing the oil drops in the barrel for years now to clean the barrel.
And some guns go as long as 4000 pellets before needing the barrel lubed. All I can say is try it out on your guns if you see the accuracy going away and see what happens.
You really are a pellet pushing machine! Well enjoy and keep on keeping on.
Thank’s. Just try to get the results I want from a gun.
And of course have fun shoot’n.
Will definitly give it a try if accuracy suffers.
Cool do let me know if you give it a try. 🙂
Looks like it’s working now. But don’t see any avitars I guess their called. By the people’s username that have one. Like the one you use of yourself.
Oh and the pictures people post are not showing up unless you click on the little box where the picture is suppose to be. Then it will open up the picture.
Chris and Gunfun1, thanks to both. I like the aesthetics of the LGU. I need to put this on my bucket list. Would be fun trying to beat my Weihrauch at 10 meters because it will require lots of Robin Hood shots.
No problem. When I say “out shoot”, I mean 25 and 30 yards. Most anything descent will look good at 10. If I recall, the TX is making about 100 fps more. The Vortek kit only upped the fps by a little, but made it smoother due to the internal and external spring dampening. Both are nice. I do not get too carried away with holds and such. It could be the TX would out shoot the LGU with a different hold. Either would be a good choice.
I liked very much the way the LGU shot. But when I owned it still I had a .177 Tx and the LGU was .22. The .177 Tx was very accurate but I tuned it myself and I do like the stock ergonomics of the Tx better than the LGU. The LGU was untouched. That Tx would out shoot the LGU.
I would get another LGU but really looking at a Diana 54 Air King again in .22 caliber. Had one of them in .22 and .177 caliber too. Really good shooting guns too.
There did I help make your bucket list bigger? 🙂
Guessing .22 over .177 caliber for humane hunting. For my purposes .177 have more pellet choices for accuracy only shooting. Is .22 pellet head diameter variation a concern in your favorite pellets?
Tryed a bunch of different brand pellets in .22 caliber in the past.
Narrowed it down to the JSB 15.89’s. Basically just shoot them right out of the tin. Head size has not been a concern with them.
One thing I can say though is on occasion I have came across a tin of pellets that didn’t shoot the same as normal. But that has been on most brands. Even the JSB pellets. But the thing is I don’t see it as often with the JSB pellets. I have a tin of 250 JSB pellets that is like that right now. Matter of fact that’s the pellets being used in the above pictures. That’s what made me lube the barrel.
I didn’t get to shoot yesterday cause I had some stuff to do. But I did sneak in about 5 quick shots from a different tin of JSB 15.89’s from a new tin of 500. They were more normal. Better than the HW30s groups but not as good as the FWB 300 groups. That’s the way the Tx is supposed to shoot. What it seems is my tin that’s not shooting good is possibly from a new die. There is flash on the sides of the pellet. That’s usually cause the die is new and possibly smaller in that area and squishing out the lead. Sometimes the head diameter does get smaller when I see the flash on the ones I measured.
But anyway today I’m going to try the new tin of 500 JSB 15.89’s in the Tx. Oh and I do got the spring preload shimmed up with some steel washers about a 1/4″. It’s shooting the 15.89’s at 760 fps. Which is pretty hot for the heavier pellet.
I’ll post a picture later if the new tin produces the normal groups it’s suppose to. If not then I got to look into other things.
First here is a picture of the pellet with the flash on it from the tin of 250 that I was using Thursday when I decided to lube the barrel when the group’s started growing. The head size is about .001″ (one thousandths) smaller than the pellets in the tin of 500 with no flash on the side.
And I’m going to post a picture also of the group’s I just shot. It’s windy as heck and blowing with a head wind then changing to a cross wind from the left to right then right to left. Just always changing direction. But you can see how the wind was blowing from where they hit. The high shots is when the wind was a head wind from straight at me. Then of course you can tell also if the wind was comming from the left or right.
I only shot 5 shot group’s with the HW30s and the FWB 300. The wind was just to much and varying direction to much to get good results. But look at the Tx. And I went ahead and did 10 shots since it was trying to group. The heavier pellet shooting at the higher 760 fps tryed to stay on target. But you can still see how the Tx shot high or on target or to the left or right depending on how the wind was blowing.
I shot some group’s of 10 before this also with both tins of pellets with similar results. So I have to say after lubing I just needed to shoot the Tx more to let it settle in. And I’m pretty sure the guns back to normal. Hopefully later it will be calm and I can get my normal pellet touching .700″ group out of it. Will see what happens if the wind calms.
Here is the target.
Ok I’m done. Here is the last target shot today with each gun. The wind calmed to a off on from left to right 6 mph.
The Tx is pretty much what it is. Other than the two sides by side type groups. That was the wind kicking up. Same with the HW30s. And if you look close enough the FWB 300 did it too but not as extreme.
And notice how the warm up shots do cause a change in poi (point of impact). The warm up shot can be at different places too. But the FWB is always the most consistent even with the first shot.
Over and out. 🙂
Hmm picture didn’t post. Here I go again.
Thanks for lots of follow up info. What distance are these groups shot? 50 yards? 35 yards?
I too have received pellets that are out of sync with norm. Guessing a new die or worn die is an issue. I believe pellet manufacturers are reacting to head diameter variation, at least some of them. Hoping we will soon see the day that the word MATCH means the pellets inside are consistent. You like JSB pellets and I like their Match Express. They seem to not put emphasis on head diameter consistency. Maybe their pellet heads ride the lands with skirts in the grooves or is it the opposite? Either way they have a quality reputation.
All 50 yards except for that one Thursday at 35 yards.
Some people think that’s far. But 50 yards is what I base my guns and pellets off of. To me that tells the true story. As you can see. Wind definitely plays a big role in shooting results.
And yep with you. That’s what I see with the JSB pellets.
I wonder if there is some other better brand pellets out there that I don’t about.
Maybe there is some top secret deadly accurate pellets that we don’t know about that someone is keeping hidden. Couldn’t you just love to shoot .250″ group at 50 yards routinely with a springer. 🙂
I have a Hatsun 95 that today is besting all my springers at 25 yards using sorted Premiers 10.5 grain in the brown box with 4.50 mm head diameter. This is a heavy rifle with a clear scope rested on sandbag and does not have to put up with my herky jerks. Converging pellets! It can’t outshoot my HW30s at 10 meters.
Have a very good day!
The FWB 300 will shoot a 10 shot group at 10 yards that would make you think only one shot was taken. Especially bench resting.
My HW30s looks almost the same at 10 yards. Move out to 25 yards and the truth starts to show itself.
Not trying to sound offensive. But 10 yards does not show a guns true performance.
And I know that’s the farthest some people have to shoot at. The main thing is at least we’re shooting.