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DIY Umarex Gauntlet: Part 2

Umarex Gauntlet: Part 2

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Umarex Gauntlet.

Part 1

This report covers:

  • No velocity test
  • The tank
  • Getting to the trigger
  • The trigger
  • Single stage trigger
  • Adjusting the trigger
  • Assembly
  • Summary

Boy, do I have a lot to tell you today! Let’s get started!

No velocity test

There will be no velocity test today, because I first wanted a look at that trigger. Three hours later after starting that I have a blog’s worth of things to tell you. The velocity test will come next time.

The tank

Yes, the air tank does have to be completely exhausted before you can remove it. The manual doesn’t state it that positively, but it does say that, more or less. I had to remove the tank so I could remove the forearm and stock to get to the trigger, and I know now for sure the tank has to be exhausted. Umarex gives you a degassing tool and it works exactly as they say in the manual.

Since the tank was off I took a couple pictures to show you the design of where the tank meets the receiver. The rifle has a long probe that keeps the air tank exhaust valve open all the time, so the tank has to be degassed for safety before removal.

Gauntlet valve pin
That long pin in the Gauntlet receiver where the air tank attaches pushes the tank’s exhaust valve open continuously.

Gauntlet tank inlet and exhaust valve
When the tank is screwed into the rifle, the pin you see here (arrow) is pressed in by the pin in the previous picture.

So that is out of the way. On to the next item on the agenda — the trigger.

Getting to the trigger

To get to the trigger, the action has to be out of the stock. That’s why the air tank has to be removed — so the forearm and buttstock can be removed. There are 4 screws involved and I won’t get into all that — yet. The manual has good instructions on how to do this but the pictures are poor! They are far too small and dark to show the kind of detail someone unfamiliar with the rifle will need. Believe me — I have A LOT more to say about the manual and also the design of the Gauntlet’s plastic parts, but that’s still to come.

The trigger

As I suspected from the picture in the manual, this trigger is a very close copy of the Crosman 160 “crossbow” trigger. The safety is spring-loaded, which doesn’t help during disassembly from the stock because, unlike the Crosman safety, this one remains with the trigger. It must be aligned with a slot in the stock for the action to be removed and the spring pushes it out of alignment. So, stock removal is a little fiddly.

Gauntlet trigger housing
That’s the Gauntlet trigger housing.

Gauntlet sear engagement window
That’s the sear engagement window. When the gun is cocked, you can see how the sear engages the trigger.

Gauntlet sear cocked
This is what you see when the gun is cocked.

Once I had the sideplate off I saw the resemblance to the old Crosman trigger design. The Chinese have been copying this design for decades, ever since Henry Harn sent them a tricked-out 160 to copy and turn into the QB77. That then became the QB78 and that became the QB 79, so the Chinese have years of familiarity with this trigger. And the trigger is excellent, so that’s a good thing!

Gauntlet trigger
The trigger looks very similar to the Crosman trigger of the 1960s and ’70s.

Single stage trigger

I will admit when I make a mistake, and I made a huge one in Part 1. I said the trigger was 2-stage and reader Mike Ogden asked me if that was right, because both Pyramyd AIR and Umarex say it is a single stage. When Mike asked me, I picked up the rifle and tested it again and then told him it was definitely a 2-stage trigger. Only, it isn’t.

Mike, they were right and so were you. The Gauntlet has a single stage trigger. What threw me was when I pulled the trigger I could not believe any trigger would have a first stage that long and creepy. Also, the trigger on the rifle I’m testing actually hesitates just before releasing. What was I supposed to think?

But why, then, did I also remember the Crosman trigger as being 2-stage, when it is exactly the same? Well, I now know why, and I also know how to adjust the Gauntlet trigger to make it a nice 2-stage trigger.

Adjusting the trigger

The Gaultlet trigger is adjustable — HOWEVER — the factory has cemented the adjustment screws so tight that they cannot be turned. I snapped off an Allen wrench in the sear engagement screw adjustment and now it cannot be turned without damaging it further. If I owned the rifle I would fix it, but I don’t — at least not yet.

But, knowing the screws were cemented, probably with Loctite, I worked on the overtravel screw for half an hour, turning it back and forth in small amounts and finally broke it free. Then I adjusted it so stage one stopped just before the sear was released. A light increase of pressure causes the sear to break like glass and my Gauntlet now has a VERY nice trigger! No, it is definitely not in the same class as a Marauder trigger, but for an inexpensive trigger this is as good as they get. I lubricated the sear with moly grease when the trigger was exposed and now stage one has almost no creep.

This may be the way I adjust Crosman triggers, which is why I think they are 2-stage. Because this one certainly is! The pull weight is 4 pounds 14 oz. with stage one taking almost 3 pounds of that. I’m sorry for the confusion, but my hard disk is getting full and sometimes I can’t remember things that happened recently. Things that happened back when I was six are very clear, but yesterday is a fog.


Now, it was time to put everything back together and this is where things got ugly. It took me a full hour to get the plastic forearm back on the gun. I found the words in the manual to be very precise and correct but the pictures are worthless.

I finally figured out that the stock screws on either side of the forearm need to be a little lose, to get the forearm to connect. It was a matter of plastic hinges and parts fitting together, and I think it is a weak part of the rifle’s design. It reminds me of the Daisy 853 that gave me such fits for the same reason. I will never take to stock off again unless I have to. That answers the removable tank question, because this one will stay where it is!


It probably sounds like I don’t like the Gauntlet, but that’s not the case. I’m thinking that if this one is as accurate as some folks say, I might even buy it. I just want everyone to know about the trigger, the air tank and how disassembly and assembly can be a challenge.

148 thoughts on “Umarex Gauntlet: Part 2”

  1. BB
    I had the bottle cover off and back on mine and didn’t have to loosen the side screws. I was actually surprised how easy it worked.

    And I still like the trigger set as it is from the factory on my Gauntlet. Still reminds me of my QB79 trigger. And did you notice when you had the stock off your Gauntlet that it looks a lot like a QB79.

  2. So it’s one of those rifles.

    Does it work reliably? Check.
    Does it shoot accurately? Check.
    Is it regulated? Check.
    Is the trigger adjusted to where you finally like it? Check.

    Then follow this 1 simple rule..

    If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.
    (Because it’s too frustrating to take it apart and put it back together.)

    It’s still on my list…..

    • 45Bravo,

      As you pointed out, the trigger is finally where it is likeable, but getting that there was a chore B.B. described in detail. NOW, yes, it doesn’t need fixing, but right out of the box it did. A trigger adjustment is par for the course, of course. But no air rifle with a trigger that is meant to be adjusted should require that much grief to get the job done.


  3. B.B.,

    How hard was it to degas?

    So the safety is captive and cannot be pulled out to facilitate disassembly? That probably helps in keeping the number of potential parts to lose at a minimum. There was a small industry here turning out aluminum replacements of the plastic safety switch that kept getting lost during disassembly.


    PS.Section: Assembly Second sentence: It took me a full hour to get the pl;astic (plastic) forearm back on the gun.

  4. The forestock/shroud is a real pain. I have loosened screws and I still can’t get it to on without a few good whacks. My trigger wasn’t locked up tight like that at all but it did have the most unbelievably long and creepy pull. But right now it breaks at under a pound and a half with a nice short pull and I really like it.

  5. BB,

    Why did you take the bottle off to adjust the trigger?

    My trigger got to the point that the rifle would not cock because one of the trigger set screws had backed out. I followed the instructions in one of the online videos. Degas – check. Take action out of stock – check. Remove bottle – not required.

    Adjusted set screws as shown in video and as you described. The set screws in my Gauntlet moved easily. They were not locktighted in place. Also, my trigger housing was full of grease. Yours looks dry in comparison.

    Getting that plastic forearm back on was a real PIA. I found out afterward that the trick is to not tighten the two side screws down too much. Just get them started and the forearm will slip into its grove much easier. Tighten the bottom post then tighten the side screws.

    I know the Gauntlet is a single stage trigger but it does feel like a two stage with a long creepy first stage. After about 3000 rounds through it the break point is very predictable. I guess I got it adjusted like you described.


    • Yogi,

      I’m just average. They can take even better pix if they want to. I think they didn’t pay enough attention to the pix in the manual, because someone though okay is good enough. I’m a former Army manual writer, so I don’t think that way.


  6. If this posts right go to page 6. It says to squeeze the side of the bottle cover.

    That’s what I did send mine slipped right on and right off.

  7. B.B.,

    Thank you for getting inside the trigger assy. and giving us all an inside peek like that. I do not recall you doing that very often on a loaner gun. Too bad the screws were so tight/locked. The (simplicity) of trigger group reminds me of the Maximus’ group. It is real easy to see what does what, and what to adjust. Of course, I added the 2 back screws, which screwed right in the 2 holes that were already there. I do not care for the bottle having to be degassed to remove the action/or/to remove the bottle. A check valve of sorts would seem to be in order.

    Looking forwards to the rest of the testing.

    Good Day to you and to all,… Chris

  8. BB,

    This may turn into an interesting air rifle. That really is a nice, simple trigger assembly. As you have said, the Chinese have had quite some time to get this right.

    My personal taste is that is one UGLY air rifle. Despite it’s appearance, I have heard very good things about it. I would probably enjoy shooting one for a bit, but I seriously doubt I would buy one unless I stumbled on one for a real good price.

    • RR,

      I would like its looks but one thing has bothered me, that scalloped section in front of the trigger-guard. If it had a gradual, even slope from the front of the forearm back to the trigger-guard, it would have a classic appearance. As it is the Gauntlet has a look my mother would call “ozzie.”

      Restocking the Gauntlet would solve the challenges it has looks-wise and also take care of the amateurish screw screw-up.


      • Michael,

        Well, they had to do something to cover that bottle. I would have liked it better with a tube reservoir, but that would have greatly reduced the shot count.

        You can replace the 13 CI bottle with a 20 CI bottle and really boost the shot count.

        This is just not the air rifle for me. If I sell off one or two of my “modern” PCPs I will be looking for something, but I do not think this one will be considered for residence at RidgeRunner’s Home For Wayward Airguns.

    • RR
      That’s not hard to stumble on to one for a good price. They already sell for a good price. 😉

      And you talk about the China having time to get it right. From what I remember there was a big following of the QB series gun throughout time.

      I would think those followers would be eating the Gauntlet up. It’s like a modern updated QB with nowdays Goodies right on the gun. To make a QB have similar features as the Gauntlet by buying aftermarket parts you would probably spend more money than just buying a Gauntlet.

        • BB
          The looks being quite different is part of what I’m talking about with a modern updated version of the QB also.

          If you search enough. The parts that they used to build the Gauntlet looks like Umarex went right to a aftermarket supplier and said we want to buy 20,000 of your repeating breeches and shrouded barrel kits and used them to build the Gauntlet. Like wise on the regulated bottles. That was already happening with the Ninja bottles on the QB79’s. I just happened to put the regulated Air Venturi HPA bottle on my QB79. So to me the Gauntlet was built off the QB79 platform that’s already been tryed and true.

          I think the Gauntlet is a exciting gun for what they did with it at this price range.

  9. B.B.
    One definition of gauntlet .
    To go through a intimidating experience to reach a goal.
    So maybe that was the stock and trigger but still I’m interested in the accuracy the gun looks like a creedmore
    platform sniper that would set you back two grand thanks for the report.

  10. B.B.,

    Umarex should be ashamed.

    I had decided to get a Gauntlet until reading today’s report. I won’t get one now. B.B., if you had trouble opening up, adjusting this air rifle, and closing it up, how difficult would it have been for a novice? Even if it’s accurate, how can anyone be sure that the one he orders will be a “good” one? Accuracy often makes up for a lot, but for me it wouldn’t make up for all the other issues. A car that is fast but a rattle-trap is still just a rattle-trap.

    Does Umarex do any quality control at all? My experience suggests to me this isn’t a Chinese manufacturing issue but that Umarex’ German-made products are inconsistent, too. Umarex needs to get its act together.


    • Michael,

      If you read the comments, some had problems like I wrote about; others didn’t. I wouldn’t abandon the idea just yet. Let’s see how the whole thing works out.

      If this rifle turns out to be accurate I may buy it. The trigger is now quite nice.


      • B.B.,

        I don’t know. The Beeman Chief is starting to look better to me, although they are loud and unregulated.

        I have a 400 and 160 with triggers I adjusted after reading your reports on the crossbow design. Even I was able to open ’em up, adjust ’em, and put it all back with no serious problems.

        My point is that the product should be made well enough — consistently well enough — for someone who has limited or even no experience with air rifles to adjust. But it gave you, an adept air gun mechanic, problems. Furthermore, these were issues that reflected poorly on the build quality of the air rifle.

        A cemented adjustment screw is incredible. Umarex put its name on that?


        • Michael
          How many reports have you read or seen about the QB Chief? Maybe they are hit and miss also. That’s been my problem with stuff made in China. But also I have been having good luck with China products.

          And Redrafter got one of the China compressor’s and the QB Chief. I think he was happy with his.

          And I do have to agree with you. I don’t like that they glued the trigger screw.

          • Gunfun1,

            Yes, the QB Chief might be inconsistent in quality from one to another, but it also has the crossbow trigger, and it goes for 40 percent fewer dollars than the gauntlet.


            • Michael
              So what you just told me is your willing to take a gamble on a gun since it’s 40% less money than another.

              But here’s the thing. Which gun really has the features you want. If your going to take a chance on one. Get the one with the features you want and spend that money.

              Both the Chief and the Gauntlet in my opinion are good deals.

              And I’m going to think back in time about something here. Back shooting my 760 and and 392 as well as the 880 and firearms I have shot as a kid. Then getting my first Discovery when they came out. I really never payed attention to the triggers. I just shot them as they were. And good I might add. 😉

              It wasn’t till I started advancing more till I started paying more attention to a trigger.

              So what I’m saying. The QB79 and the Gauntlet have very respectful triggers as they come out of the box. I dare to say better than a Maximus or Discovery trigger. Heck even a 2240 trigger out of the box.

              So as far as it goes the trigger in my opinion does not need to be touched to enjoy shooting the gun especially with all the other features it has. Matter of fact I bet 90% of the people that shoot one wouldn’t even touch the trigger. It would only be the trigger perfectionist that would want to dig inside. Trust me you know I like to tinker. If I say I like the trigger on the Gauntlet. Then I bet others would love it.

              And as I have said before. How can you say when you have never tryed one.

              • Gunfun,
                I know what you mean. My first ever firearm was a new Marlin 60 semi auto tube fed rifle. I was a very good shot with it and thought the trigger was great as I didn’t know any better. In fact I went on to buy several more used and new ones. Then one day I stumbled on articles about triggers and tried some other guns. From that point on I hated the gritty hard trigger. Did the accurate trigger somehow go bad? No, my knowledge just expanded. I just didn’t know back then the trigger wasn’t that great. That just goes to prove with practice, you can learn to shoot with such a trigger.


                • Doc
                  Right. I shoot my old tube fed semi-auto Winchester 190 now and I say to myself how did I shoot this gun all these years with this trigger.

                  But you know what that all goes away when I start shooting away with it. I to this day couldn’t ask for it to be any different than it is. Even with that old trigger.

                  When you get something it’s nature to adapt no matter what it’s like if you truly want to do it.

              • “So what you just told me is your willing to take a gamble on a gun since it’s 40% less money than another.”

                Absolutely. If it’s 40% cheaper, it is automatically less of a gamble because the downside is lower. If someone offers you a $100 wager, you would be reluctant, but a $5 wager, what the hey, it’s only five bucks.


                  • Gunfun1,

                    For me, at least, no airgun has been exactly what I’m looking for. Some have been very, very close, though. Going in I assume I will need to modify it (trigger or regulator or something else) to make it what I am looking for. Put a power-reducing regulator in a QB Chief, epoxy a nice moderator on it, and I think it would be sweet. The fact that it costs so little to begin with means that for $350 total it might meet my needs more than any of the $350-ish dollar PCPs currently available.


                    • Michael
                      It boils down to personal preference I suppose.

                      You know me. I like to mod also. But if one is close to what I want and it does cost a little more that will be the one I get.

                      But if that’s the case I also look at what the mod will cost. So it’s a little more involved for me anyway.

                      But as far as a gun goes for the price of these budget guns and the features they have. You get alot if cool stuff that only higher dollar guns offered in the past.

                      So to me. I would love to see more of these guns become available. Even if they don’t have exactly all the features I want.

                      Trust me. There will be more like these to come. The other manufacturers will catch on to this soon enough. I think we only have better choices to come.

              • I think this was the most telling comment string I’ve ever read. It amazes me what puts some people off of a gun. Just a few years ago, maybe 5, the vast majority of consumers would’ve seen a $300, multi-shot PCP and could’ve cared less if the trigger was adjustable or not. It’s incredible how much expectations have increased as the prices have gone down. I think we tend to forget the old adage, “you get what you pay for.” I can tell you this much, for the amount of Gauntlet’s that I have seen leave Pyramyd, I’ve been pleasantly surprised with the small number of guns sent back.

                Gunfun is right on when he says very few owners will ever adjust anything. Rifles like the Gauntlet, Stormrider and before them Discovery and Marauder, have and will continue to open the airgun industry to the masses. These are people that have no idea that an airgun is capable of hole in hole accuracy at 25 yards, people that think an airgun is nothing more than a BB shooter, and folks that don’t even know airguns come in calibers over .22. This is the new average consumer of an airgun.

                If you consider yourself more experienced, or more discerning than the person I described above, that doesn’t mean you won’t enjoy a Gauntlet…but it does mean you owe it to yourself to either understand going in that the $300 gun you receive may not be perfect OR spend enough money to get something you know will meet your expectations.

                Like B.B., I shot a few of the pre-production Gauntlets and was very impressed. But that was before I saw a manual or looked under the hood. And even after that, I was still impressed because it dawned on me that it was a $300 PCP. When I started in airguns, the features the Gauntlet has were only found in $1000+ guns and even then, some guns in that price range didn’t have all the bells and whistles. I built a Discovery many years ago with the same features that the Gauntlet has and even it cost me about $500 more than the Gauntlet retails for.

                The more and more I read comment strings like this, the more I realize just how far our industry has come and I love it! It also reminds me that perspective is everything, and perspective comes from experiences. Some have a lot of experience and others have next to none, either way, the conversation is great to see. So get yourself some more experience Michael, whether it’s with a Gauntlet or another PCP, you owe it to yourself to try it out. Whether the experience ends up being good, or not so good, the perspective you will gain will enhance your journey in airguns down the road….and to me, that’s what it’s all about. Well, that and hitting the bullseye! LOL

                • Tyler
                  Thanks. An I hoped I was not coming across to strongly. I was just saying what I have encountered.

                  And I totally agree that these point price guns are a very good thing.

                  Heck if they would offered more of these type of bargain guns over the last 6-8 years I would have doubled the guns I shot in this time period.

                  I’m very glad that they are available now days.

                • Tyler,

                  Thank you for your comments. You have a unique perspective and I enjoy reading your comments. I have to say that I love your airgun review as well. Recently I purchased a Gamo Urban and your review was instrumental in making that decision.

                  • Geo791,

                    And I thought it was my subliminal energy going out every night, ” Geo, get an Urban. You’ll love it. Geo, get an Urban. You’ll love it. Geo, get a ……” 😉


                    • Halfstep

                      I think your subliminal messages got through to me…seems like I had a dream that the Urban should be my choice. My UTG 3-12x44swat scope arrived yesterday so this afternoon I plan to mount the scope and maybe take a few shots in my basement at 15 yards to see how she performs. Thanks for those messages 🙂


                • “Just a few years ago, maybe 5, the vast majority of consumers would’ve seen a $300, multi-shot PCP and could’ve cared less if the trigger was adjustable or not. It’s incredible how much expectations have increased as the prices have gone down.”

                  Tyler, of course. The competition has forced manufacturers to provide better products for lower prices, one of the fundamental laws of economics, the Law of Competition. The consumer is correct to demand more for less under these circumstances.


                • I am not new to airguns and i am not nearly as experienced as most of you here i think, but i am not experienced at all in PCP though i have watched the progression of the inexpensive regulated tanks. Seeing what was done with the QB guns make it into a production gun with the shrouded barrel is exciting.

                  The trigger though that clinches the deal. I think this is just the combination needed that will get non PCP users like me to give it a go. I think though the evolution that is the real game changer i have been waiting for affordable self contained PCP. What a great time it is.

                • Tyler,

                  I reread your comment and my response and realized I forgot to mention something.

                  I have been airgunning for a little over ten years now and own an Air Arms TX200 MK III, four Weihrauchs (two HW30ses, one HW50, and one HW77), and five Feinwerkbaus (one 124D, one 150, two 300ses, and a 601). I also have had two Marauders for a few years. To me the Marauders are at least several levels below my ten best springers, at least my FWBs. I am no expert, but I know the difference between so-so and world-class air guns.

                  While I still have the Marauders, they just sit unused. I have for all practical purposes moved back to the Light Side. However, I am still curious about PCPs, and I expect that when they and their compressors get “there,” I will give them a chance again.


        • Michael

          You might want to checkout the Gamo Urban .22 PCP. Of all the entry level PCPs, the Urban appears to have the best quality. I just bought one a week ago but haven’t shot it yet because my scope hasn’t come yet. I like the appearance, the light weight, and the short length. Rick Eutsler and Steve Scialli have done video reviews on the Urban and both were impressed with it.

          The Gamo Urban is a 22-25 fpe PCP and is a 10 shot repeater which is manufactured in G.B. in the BSA plant. It has a hammer forged barrel which is known for it’s accuracy. You can find this airgun at a sale price of $209 right now. At that price, I don’t think anything else is comparable.

          Also, if more power is a requirement, Tyler Patner just did a review on the new Hatsan Flash which is their new entry level PCP at $299. This is an unregulated airgun but still gives 20+ shots per fill.

          • Geo
            Right there are more of these types of guns available these days. And that’s a good thing.

            They might not have exactly all the features we want. But the point is it gets us shooting a more affordable gun that can still serve a purpose.

          • Geo,
            I too have eyed the Urban as a prospect for me to go over to the dark side. My deal is, it would be a hand pump. So whenever or whatever I choose will have to be easy to do with a hand pump. The Gauntlet can use 2000 psi, but I don’t think it’ll get the same amount of shots as say a Max or Disco.


            • Doc
              Yes you will out of a Gauntlet filling to 2000 psi.

              Most Discovery’s and Maximus average a bit over 20 shots. You will have no problem doing that with a Gauntlet. Well based off of my Gauntlet anyway.

            • Yeah, that’s my deal too. I didn’t want to invest a ton of money into tanks or compressors. I didn’t even buy the best hand pump. I bought a Taousa for $85. It will pump to 4500 psi. I tried it on the Urban just to see how it would work. It came with about 2900 psi in it. I pumped it to 3000 psi and it wasn’t too bad. In his review, Steve Scialli said the sweet spot was 195 bar (2828 psi) and that would yield about 25 good shots down to about 1500 psi. The reservoir is only 105cc so it shouldn’t take long to pump back up from 1500 to 2900 psi.

                • GF1

                  I am anxious to start shooting it too 😀

                  Good news, my UTG 3-12x44SWAT scope & rings came this afternoon. Now I have all the pieces and can start mounting my scope. I was a little surprised by the heft of it. I chose a compact model to try to keep the weight down & not make the rifle top heavy.

                  Today was a beautiful day with temps at 60º. Unfortunately, Thurs it gets much colder with rain turning to snow. Guess we still have some winter to get through. I’ll probably get the Urban scoped up and shoot it some in my basement. I can shoot up to 15 yards down there so that should be a good start.

                  Hey we have those “senior” moments

          • Geo,

            Ran out of room above so I thought I’d respond to your comment here. I will guess that you will find some pellets are hole on hole at that distance and indoors will give you a good read on how quiet it is, although you may not have anything to compare it to if this is your first PCP. (and I think it is) Please be sure to report your results and impressions. As I told Jerry C elsewhere, I’ve been hawking this gun and would really like some feedback, especially if it’s good, but I need to hear the bad too, if for no other reason than to caution me to keep my misguided opinions to myself. 😉

            • Halfstep

              Yup, found your comment okay. Yes, this is my first PCP and I have done a lot of research and watched a lot of video reviews on all the entry level PCP available. I believe I have made the right choice with the Urban. I will for sure post my results here for everyone.

              I just got the scope mounted tonight but still have not had a chance to shoot it. The UTG rings I bought with the scope are a little thick and I was not able to move the scope back as far as I would like. The scope is a UTG 3-12x44mm SWAT Compact. I may check into some thinner rings. I knew the compact size restricted how much the scope could be moved but I thought I would still be able to get a good eye relief without having to move my head forward.

                • Siraniko

                  Yes, the stock is synthetic and has a very nice recoil pad on it. Besides, the length of pull is about right for me. The eye relief is a little bit long but I can adjust to it. Or, maybe some single strap scope rings would give me enough movement to get it just right. The UTG mounts I have are heavy duty medium height 13/32″ long. The scope’s front flip-open lens cap is touching the rail too. I really think I need some different rings.

    • Michael,

      Don’t my comments and some of the others put you off a Gauntlet. I don’t consider myself a moder or tinkerer. I would have preferred to never have had to adjust the trigger on my Gauntlet. But truthfully it was not difficult to adjust the trigger. I believe that most people will be able to take their Gauntlet out of the box and never have a problem with it.


  11. The Gauntlet is a rifle that I am watching closely. Think that it would be a good hunter in .22, had hoped that you would have tested that caliber.

    >>> OFF TOPIC…

    I came across a short video to might be of general interest to the airgunner community. Our rifles have a components made from different types of steel which have been treated to have specific properties. Discussions
    on these properties occasionally come up in these blogs and some background information would be useful for understanding them.

    Basically, how hard and brittle, soft and ductile the metal is is determined by its alloy (its composition) and the heat treatment. My father showed my how to harden, temper and test steels when I was in my early teens. In turn, I taught my son. We deal with metals all the time, a bit of understanding is usually a good thing 🙂

    Though “hands on” is the best, this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8KvKFQwtUs compares 3 different steels. It shows the hardening process then file and spark testing followed by the ductility test (a big hammer 🙂 ). Though its not a “laboratory controlled” comparison it does demonstrate the different properties of the steels.

    Hope this is of interest.


    • Hank
      Didn’t you say you pest with your FWB 300.

      Why .22 Gauntlet. Here check this out. I shot at a old stove burner gaurd with my .25 Condor SS, the .22 Maximus and .177 Gauntlet at 50 yards.

      And mind you. The .177 Gauntlet and .22 Maximus are both make exactly 20 fpe. Tell me what gun would you want for hunting between the Gauntlet and Maximus after you look at the picture. And zoom in and pay attention to the dents the pellets leave or don’t leave.

        • Dave
          Thanks. I didn’t get as good of picture as I wanted. But yep. That’s that peircing thing I talk about with a smaller caliber verses a bigger caliber.

          But as it goes speed of the pellet and weight and distance all play a part in it. Move out farther and the .17+ Gauntlet will dent like the Maximus. Move in closer then the .22 Maximus will poke through. Heck look at the .25 Condor SS. They are big mass pellet but still poked right through.

          My point is that all calibers can be used to hunt or pest. But they all have the distance limit that needs known before using that gun for that purpose.

      • GF1,

        I bought a .177 Maximus for my granddaughter to target shoot with (so I could get my .177 HW100 back from her! LOL!) and have done some pesting with it. With the velocities it gets I was getting shoot-through (as I expected) with most of the energy going down range.

        I like the FWB300 for close in pesting – up to 20 yards or so – because has the ideal power (mid 600s with an 8.44s) and is so crazy accurate that head-shots are the norm.

        For general pesting at longer ranges I use my .22 HW100 as it has good power, is very accurate and is economical to shoot.

        For hunting it’s the .25 FX Royale for range, power, accuracy and shot count.

        I have the bases well covered but I like to keep my eyes open to whats available.

        If I had bought the Maximus for myself I would have gone with a .22 caliber and used it for casual plinking, pesting and hunting – a light fun shooter. Something to carry around and have handy while working in the garage or in the back-forty.

        I have a Walther Dominator 1250 which is a regulated repeater with a synthetic stock. Unfortunately it is .177 and shooting much hotter than I prefer for what I want. The Dominator shoots well with the .177 JSB Monster pellets putting a lot of energy into a small diameter hole. I lent it to a friend to get rid of some pests and he took out several groundhogs and two raccoons with no problem. Its a bit on the heavy side but gets a huge amount of shots per (4500psi) fill and the bi-pod is convenient. I may just sell it to him and go for a Gauntlet. Will see.

        My interest in the Gauntlet (over a Maximus) is that it is a regulated repeater and I would get it in .22. If it is up to par in the accuracy department (not looking for an ultra-precise bench rifle, just a good shooter) then it could end up on my short list.


        • Hank
          You do have it well covered. 🙂

          And from what I seen in reviews and videos. The .22 Gauntlets are just as accurate as my .177 Gauntlet.

          I say get one. They remind of more of a high dollar gun but at a economy price.

  12. “I snapped off an Allen wrench in the sear engagement screw adjustment and now it cannot be turned without damaging it further.”

    I recently saw a tip from a professional mechanic on YouTube removing Subaru cam timing pullies. To decrease chance of stripping, he slathers valve grinding compound on the Allen wrench and in the bolt. Takes up the slack for a better grip. I have not tried it yet in an airgun application. Of course, where Locktite is involved, some preheating with a Blazer butane micro torch used intelligently may help.

    • John
      Yes for sure I mentioned that trick before here on the blog.

      Toothpaste works too if you don’t have valve grinding compound laying around. It also works on torx head and Phillip head too. As well as on bolt heads for a better grip.

  13. Ok this is a little fishy.

    So they say the bottle can be removed by degassing the gun and the bottle. Well that’s fine and dandy.

    So ok let’s say I do that when I’m out in the feild and I want to put another full ninja bottle on my Gauntlet. I can’t be cause it’s full? I have to screw a empty one back on then fill it with a pump or buddy bottle. That just don’t sound right to me. It defeats the purpose.

    I know I can change the regulated bottle on my QB79 with it full. I have done it switch it to my Steel Storm that runs on tethered HPA.

    Ok for the sake of the blog I’m going to risk my life and see if I can unscrew the ninja bottle from the Gauntlet while it’s full and see if I can screw it back on with it full. I will fill it back to 3000 psi before I try to put it back on the Gauntlet.

    And kids and parents don’t try this at home. And if I don’t comment back in a little bit you know I failed. Just remember me when you shoot your guns ok. But don’t fret. I’ll be in the happy hunting grounds in the sky. 🙂

      • BB and all

        Well I’m alive. But I’m now missing my right pinky finger and left big toe.

        Ok I’ll stop joking around. Really this is serious stuff when your messing with high pressure air. But I was pretty confident with what the results were going to be before I did the test.

        First off I have already done it on my QB79 like I already mentioned. So that gave me some confidence. Plus we have high pressure shock systems at work that stop 3000 pound skids of parts gently we machine at work. So I’m familiar with this kind of check valves at work.

        So here is the low down. The bottle is a bit firm to unscrew. I was holding the gun with one hand and unscrewing the bottle with the other. So I start unscrewing and got about 2 or so turns and then I heard a slight hissing. Then I slowed down on my turning. And let the air exhaust. It was not abrupt or a lot of pressure and was more or l SS gentle. Of course I was waiting for the bottle to rip the last thread out and go fly in across the room. But nope the bottle unscrewed right off.

        And I done this without out degassing the gun just like I do on my QB79. Basically the air escaping is the regulated 1250 psi stored in the guns valve. And yes that means the bottle lost basically no air. It was still on 3000 psi.

        And I here is a picture of the ninja bottle check ball. I wanted to show it because it’s the same as my regulated Air Venturi bottle. But take note it’s different than the check valve on BB’s Gauntlet.

        So saying that. There may be ninja bottles that might not work like the one on my Gauntlet or my Air Venturi bottle. So again in big letters (BEWARE THIS COULD BE DANGEROUS DO NOT ATTEMPT) Ok that’s my disclaimer.

        But on to the next part. Putting the full 3000 psi bottle back on the Gauntlet. Yep screed right back on with no air loss and just a bit more snug to finish turning the bottle to postioned the fill probe and gauge for the cover. Oh and my cover came right of and right back on no problem by squeezing the sides like it says on page 6 in the owners manual.

        There you have it and here’s the picture of the bottle ball style check valve.

          • BB
            No problem. I really wanted to know but I really wasn’t planning on ever taking the bottle off my Gauntlet.

            But you know how it goes when something keeps eating at you. I had to do it. 🙂

              • GF1
                From me too, thanks for checking it out. I still have the Gauntlet on my want list but now in .177 from your comments. I am holding out for a sale like 3X bull’s-eye bucks.

                • Gerald
                  I don’t think you will be disappointed with a Gauntlet in both calibers.

                  I watched a bunch of video’s and they were all .22 Gauntlets except for a few in .177 caliber. I’m happy with my .177 for sure.

                  And wait and see what BB does with his .177 Gauntlet. But I’m thinking it will be good too. Maybe BB will go right to the accuracy test and right out to 50 yards and skip the velocity to last. Probably not but it’s a thought. 🙂

                • Gerald,

                  For target shooting .177 will get you an extra 10 shots per fill.

                  If you plan to hunt (squirrels, rabbits and such) with your Gauntlet I think that you should consider the .22 as penetration is not going to be an issue – energy transfer is.

                  The .177 will pass through and take its energy with it; the .22 will also pass through but put more energy on target.

                  Just my 2 cents.


                  • Hank
                    I have the hunting part covered with the marauder platform. A .22 and a .25 so a.177 would be good to not beat up my reactive targets so fast.
                    Hey all I saw that you tube put the airgun channels back up. Tyler at PA has a new review.

                    • Gerald
                      A .177 Gauntlet will be good all around gun.

                      Heck I’m shooting mine successfully out to a hundred yards and in.

                    • Participant,

                      Thank you for the update. I do not watch them often, but when I do, I usually enjoy them very much.

              • Gunfun1,

                So the degassing tool is not really needed to remove the tank, but is there for the safety of the newbie?

                Thanks for conducting this exploration. I wonder why yours has a ball valve on your bottle while B.B. seems to have a needle type. Did they just simply use what was on stock? Is there any advantage of using one type over the other?


                • Siraniko
                  Don’t know on some of your questions.

                  But I myself like the ball rather than the pin. Remember the ball is getting pushed up against the pin in the gun as it’s screwed on or off. From what I seen at work the ball check has less contact area on the pin that opens the air flow.

                  Think about it. The ball is like a bb setting on a table. It only contacts the table in a very small spot. So less resistance. And remember that ball has 1200 psi of regulated pressure pushing on it. So the less resistance the easier to turn the bottle.

        • GF1,

          I will second B.B.’s comment. Slow unscrewing and some common sense are in order. Once you hear that “hiss”,…. let it do its thing and degas. Going in,… quicker sounds better.

          Glad you made it through in one piece! I am sure that the “Grazz Hoppa” has more to learn from the Ol’ GF1 😉

            • GF1,

              Just backing you up. You never know,… some idiot could try to do a quick swap/pit stop and try to swap one out in a big hurry. From what I have seen, if something is going to fail with HPA, it is going to be thread.

              • Chris USA,

                That’s why I asked B.B. a day or so ago if there was a slot cut part way into the threads or a very small diameter channel drilled into the regulator to release the air that you all are reporting comes through the threads after a few turns. Most of the SCUBA gear comes equiped, as in cylinder valves and fill systems in case someone doesn’t open the relief valve or tries to remove a valve out of a still pressurized cylinder.

                The lawyers of course will point to the manual and say, “We told you not to do that!” when a regulator fails and the maximum pressure is sitting right there waiting for the newbi GOTCHA!


                • Shootski
                  There’s a bit of a problem with that.

                  If those threads had that cut running down the threads there is pressure pushing on the threads as you are unscrewing.

                  The cut on the bottle thread would need to be rounded off on each thread or it would eventually start cutting the threads on the gun where the bottle screwed in. And even if the threads are rounded at the cut it will still try to deform the thread because it would load the threads on one side. Remember pressurized air always trys to equalize. So with no cut in the threads air would more or less be a vision between each thread.

                  I mean it would probably be ok. I just wouldn’t do the cut.

                  And I think your missing something else. There is 1200 psi coming out of the bottle not 3000. Remember the bottles are regulated at 1200 or so psi out put. I know that sounds like a lot. But if you have ever unscrewed one you would think it would be abrupt when the air releases. It’s not it’s very gradual.

                  It’s just like releasing the bleed knob on a hand pump or buddy bottle or compressor. You can control how fast that 1200 psi realeases very precisely by unscrewing the bleed knob.

                  Try it on a hand pump at 1200 psi then at 3000 psi. The 1200 psi release at the bleeder will feel like nothing compared to 3000 psi. And 500 psi you don’t even know it when it releases.

        • GF1,

          It is strange that your gun has the ball check valve an B.B.’s has a pin. Does the pin on your receiver look like B.B.’s? Check the picture at the top.

          Not sure why two different tanks on the same gun. Maybe yours is a newer version with a better design.


          • Don
            Yes where the bottle screws into the receiver of the gun it’s the same as BB’s Gauntlet.

            And I believe the ball check is more common than the pin check from what I seen at work. I believe the ball check is the latest and greatest of the two designs.

            I just wrote a reply a few places or so up to Siraniko why I like the ball check verses the pin check valve.

            • GF1
              I have a question- when removing the air tank, the escaping air is from the breech of the gun, is that correct?

              So that would mean dry firing the gun would help relieve the pressure (as long as the regulator ball was fully closed.

              So unscrewing the low pressure burst disk on the regulator would not help(if you could get to it)?

        • GF1,

          Thanks for doing that test. I don’t think you are careless or dumb or have a death wish so I’m guessing that you knew how it was going to go. I felt pretty sure that you were going to get that result or maybe lose a little more air than you did taking the valve off, depending on how fast you spun it. There would be no point to the system if it didn’t work as you proved. After seeing BB’s pics it seemed clear to me that the pin that depressed the bottle’s check would be disengaged before the oring seals had been withdrawn from their bore in the mounting chamber and the ones on the new bottle should be engaged before the check was depressed, much the way a twin cartridge co2 system’s sealing cap works. But I was just theorizing until I was able to have a gun in hand, while you were squinting and turning your head to the side and holding your breath as you actually turned the bottle off. What fun is research without a little ” pucker factor “? 🙂

          • Halfstep
            Hey I had to make sound good while the cameras were rolling ya know. 😉

            But yep use this same system at work on the cushioning shocks for moving skids of parts on roller conveyors. So I knew that there would be some air release. And like I said I did it already with my HPA regulated bottle on the QB79.

            And right the pin in the threaded area on the gun is what you want to watch compared to the threads on the bottle and the seals. Basically location of each.

            And like I said above to shootski. We release 3000 psi out of our bleed screws everyday when we in hook the the line from our guns after we fill them. How you control the release of air is what it’s all about.

    • GF

      The setup with the bottle and gun are a lot like my FWB. Seems like it should work .
      With my FWB, as you screw the tube on, the tube seals to the gun. Then as you continue turning the tube, the valve on the tube is pressed in, pressurizing the gun.

      In reverse, as you unscrew the tube, The valve will close up, then the sell between the tube and gun stops sealing . Then the air in the gun blows out through the threads and the gun is no longer pressurized….but the tube is .


    • GF1, allright, heres what i did. drill out the stud that opens the ninja bottltle, and tap and thread a bolt to do the same thing as the stud. then counterclockwise on the bolt, ninja closes. theres more to it but, its a little confusing maybe to say the bottle can be removed on the packaging, but not easily. i might just make my Prod .177 instead of a gauntlet, well see, r

  14. All,
    do any of you own the Diana Stormrider? Someone had said something about unusual wear on the bolt or receiver? I was just wondering as that rifle too is a low cost entry multi shot PCP.


    • Doc,

      Here’s a pic of where the damage is occurring on my stormrider. When the gun fires the bolt slides back with a hard jolt and flips up a bit and the aluminum receiver doesn’t seem to be hard enough to survive the impact.

      In my opinion it is only one reason why you want to stay away from this gun.I have had two of them because of returning my first one as defective and they were both hard to load with the mag and jam easily in a fashion that can be VERY difficult to clear. Both guns also had chunks of plastic blowing out of the barrel brake ( it’s not a silencer,it is a solid bar with a hole drilled down the center.) I thought it was the baffles from the silencer being struck by the pellets, at first, now I don’t know what it was.. The second gun’s bolt handle broke off after a few hundred pellets and I have 3 magazines of which 2 are going to have to be tinkered with by me to get them back in working order. The gun has to be shot at under 35 yards if you want 1″ groups and it is loud.

      As I have said elsewhere, since I own both, I’ll never recommend a stormrider to anyone as long as the Gamo Urban is available for under $300. It is a quality gun and my two stormriders just weren’t.

      • Halfstep,
        Sorry to hear about your problems with the Stormrider. Surely this gun will not survive with a great name like Diana on it. I like your honesty about them. You you having two of them, you can’t just write it off as a bad luck gun. If or should I say when I get my first PCP, think I’ll pass on this one. Unless something is done to change the quality control of this model, PA should pull it and ship them back to the manufacture/supplier. Just my thoughts.


        • Doc,

          The company rep told BB at the SHOT show that they weren’t having significant complaints about the gun. Since I got mine just as they were released and had a months long pre-order I’d guess mine were early production, so that may play into it. I’m still skeptical though.

      • Halfstep,
        speaking of your Gamo Urban, I see it’s listed at 232 bar (3,365 psi). Do you fill that high or just 3,000 psi? Also, will it get many shots at all with a 2,000 psi fill (Hand pumping)? Will it reach out to 40 to 50 yards ok?

        Thanks again,

        • Doc,

          My Urban is best filled to 2800 psi. I do it with a carbon fiber tank but, I used to fill it’s big brother, the Coyote, to 232bar with a G6 hand pump, until a hand injury made that impossible. It is not that hard as long as you have some upper body WEIGHT. You basically bend your knees and let your mass do most of the work as you keep your arms stiff. I weighed about 180 # at that time and once I got some instruction from BB’s blog on the subject I did it without too much effort. The Coyote is .177 cal and has a reservoir that is twice the size of the Urban’s and I recall that it only took about 1 1/2 pumps per shot within the ideal pressure range of the gun. (I don’t remember for sure what that range was although I am sure it yielded at least 50 shots, using my standard for ” usable” )

          I will post a chart showing my accuracy results at 31 and 50 yards as well as a photo of 20 out of 20 hits each on two different cans at 75 yards. I’ll also post the power curve charts from 3200 psi for RWS Hobby and Crosman Ultra Magnum pellets and you can draw your own conclusions rather than me making assumptions about what you consider acceptable accuracy and power and shoot count. Those things are subjective.

        • Doc

          Check this video review out from Steve Scialli at Airgun Nation. He say’s that to get the most powerful consistent shot, fill the Urban to 195 bar (2828 psi) down to about 100 bar (1500 psi) and you should get 27 good shots with JSB 18.13gr pellets, which he also determined were the best in the Urban he was reviewing.

          My very first shooting experience with the Urban in my basement at 12 yrds was a 10 shot group of .155″. Steve was able to get groups of less than 1″ at 50 yards and under 1.5″ at 100 yards. He does a nice job on his reviews.


  15. The more reviews that I read about these $2 And $300 PCP’s, the better the Marauder looks as an entry level PCP. In fact, I’m almost convinced I would be better off with a Diana 54, if it wasn’t such a scope killer. A match-grade trigger makes a big difference if you like to shoot field Target.


    • Brent
      Whoops reading to fast again. At work so about ready to go back to work from my break.

      I will tell you I had a 177 and a .22 54 Air King probably 7 or so years and I still have the scope today on my Condor SS that was on those two guns and other springers and pcp’s. It’s a Hawke Varmint 1/2 mildot etched reticle scope.

      So don’t let that stop you from getting s 54. Just get the right scope. And I’ll tell you the 54’s are powerhouses and shoot as smooth as a PCP. And accurate. I do miss mine.

    • Brent
      Oh and on the trigger. My Gauntlet would be a killer feild target gun. Seriously I could joke and say I could shoot the gun with my eyes closed it’s do easy to shoot.

      Remember you got to try one first before you make that claim.

    • Brent,

      If low cost and high quality in a PCP is what you are after look very hard at the Gamo Urban. It can be had for $209 delivered from the right place. I will never recommend the stormrider as long as the Urban is available at even it’s usual price of $300. It’s that good.

      • Halfstep, I succumbed to temptation on the Urban. Seems like a great value. I have several pretty good springers, including a very nice HW97K with a GinB stock. My Marauder is a FT gun with a pretty walnut Corcoran stock. Both are accurate, both are heavy.

        Broke my right arm at the end of the year, and I’m in doubt as to whether I will have full use and strength for a long time. So, I felt the need to have a lightweight PCP that would be accurate (as we all know, only accurate guns are interesting). The bargain price broke down any resistance. I will look for the right scope and see if it can’t be my fun shooter for the next year or so. It’s on the way to my friend Paul Bracaglia who will polish the barrel and work on the trigger before I get it – hopefully just as the spring thaw hits us.

        With several choices for less expensive rifles (and compressors) I see more popularity of PCP as certain. Hope JSB can make enough good pellets.

        • JerryC,

          I think you will be very happy, especially at a price below $299, although it is worth every penny even at that price.IMO I’d like to know what his polishing process is, if you know and is there any chance you could do a before and after report on it? I hope you will give us some details on how it shoots and what your impressions are. I have been singing its praises for some time now and I’m anxious to here how other owners like the gun.

          You must have had a pretty bad break to have that prognosis. Broke my right arm at the proximal humerus in early ’09 and followed that with a right shoulder injury in a crushing accident at work 6 months later. I Recovered for the most part but I am never going to be 100% so I feel for you and hope you have a better recovery than you envision right now. And the Urban is light so you’ll like that aspect of it for sure.

  16. HI B.B and everyone, Ive been reading the blog for a while and learning quite a bit, I have a few questions about Spring piston guns and info about a couple guns I have been looking at. I am in Canada so selection of guns available is not what it is in the states I have a Canadian firearms licence so I am not limited to detuned guns but I am not looking for a super magnum either my main criteria are something pleasant and fun to shoot with enough accuracy and power for some small pest control. The gun that has caught my eye is the Slavia 634 which is around $299 here in Canada (keep in mind we pay 30% more for a lot of things because of exchange rate and transportation costs) I want to know if the 634 would be a good fit for my intended use(mostly targets and plinking with some limited pest control) or if I would be better served to look at something else. other guns i have looked at are the weihrach hw30 which has a listed velocity of around 600 fps compared to the 785 fps of the slavia and it costs about $80 more. otherwise I have access to some of the big box type crosman and benjamin spring/np guns but they range from $200-$350 and I’m not sure they offer the quality to match the price at least here in Canada. Thoughts? also wondering if there is really an increase in quality and shootability from the crosman to the benjamin offerings? I dont mind doing some work to tune a spring gun in fact I think I would enjoy it as one of my other hobbies is gunsmithing, but I want a solid platform to start from. Please let me know what you think and if there is another option I should be looking into.

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