by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
The Diana 26 air rifle.
This report covers:
- The deal
- What is it?
- Earlier model 26
- Blue Book of Airguns
- Trigger
- Stock
- Description
- Sights
- Comparison to the 27
- Summary
I have written a lot about Diana air rifles over the course of this blog. A quick look finds 2 articles about the Diana model 25, and 6 articles about the Diana 27. There are probably more on each rifle, but they may be titled so I can’t find them. While I have written a lot about these Diana models, I never heard of the Diana 26 until reader Carel from the Netherlands told me he had one.
The deal
Back in February I mentioned on the blog that I would like to find a Diana model 35 to detune, just to see how sweet it could be. Carel contacted me and told me he had a nice old one I might like. Then he told me about this model 26. I had never heard of it, and he tells me they are quite scarce in Europe, too. I think the gap between the models 25 and 27 was too narrow to support another model.
At any rate we cut a deal and now I have the 26, the 35 and a model 27S that I plan to review for you. The 26 starts today.
What is it?
What is a Diana 26? Is it a 25 on steroids or is it a 27 on a diet? I will answer that with a resounding, “Yes!” Actually, this 26 is larger than my Hy Score 807 (Diana 27), so I have to be careful of what I say. For sure it’s more like the 27 than anything else.
This gun is beautiful. It’s the best of the three, cosmetically. Carel also installed a new spring in it, so it both looks and performs like a brand-new airgun. It’s a square-sectioned spring that looks like an Ox or possibly a Titan.
This rifle was manufactured in September of 1988. That’s actually a clue as to how it differs from a 25 and 27, because both of them were discontinued in 1986. The model 26 was produced from 1984 to 1992, so this one is from the middle of the run.
The date code is stamped lightly on the spring tube.
Earlier model 26
There were two earlier Diana models 26 that are in no way related to this one. The model 26 Youth was produced from 1913 to 1933 and the model 26U went from 1933 to 1940.
Blue Book of Airguns
According to the Blue Book of Airguns, the model 26 had either a T01, T02, T03 or T04 trigger, and would be marked accordingly on the receiver, just after the model number. But the one I am examining is not marked that way. It does have the single letter D just below the model number and that is all.
No trigger designation on this rifle.
Trigger
I haven’t dived into the guts of the rifle yet, and I may never do so because of how nice it shoots. But a look at the trigger reveals some differences. For starters, there is a safety! Models 25 and 27 don’t got no stinkin’ safeties! And, of course the safety is automatic.
The trigger is modular, rather than in pieces.The trigger blade is plastic.
This picture shows a lot. Besides the automatic safety on the 26 (right) you can see how fat the 26 stock is, compared to the 27. Also note that the Diana scope base is on the 26 instead of the peep sight base that’s on the 27.
One clue that this rifle may have the ball bearing trigger are the two adjustment screws on the trigger blade. Carel has it adjusted well, so I think I will leave it right where it is.
Stock
The stock is what makes this 26 larger than my 27. It’s beefier, longer and thicker in all dimensions. The butt has no pad, just like the 27, but instead of the 27’s rubber button the 26 just has a grooved butt for better purchase. The 27’s butt is grooved, too.
Here are the two rifle butts. The 26 on the right is much larger than the 27.
Description
The model 26 is a breakbarrel single shot spring-piston air rifle that was offered in both .177 and .22 calibers. It’s supposed to get 750 f.p.s. in .177 and 500 f.p.s. in .22. The barrel is 17.25-inches long and the rifle is 43 inches, overall. The length of pull is 14.125-inches, which I credit to the generous stock, because my Diana 27 length of pull is only 12.625-inches.
Sights
The model 26 has the same tapered front post in a globe that’s on my 27. The rear sight is also the same plastic adjustable open notch.
The front sight is the same on most Diana sporting air rifles of this vintage.
The rear sight is Diana’s classic open rear sight.
Comparison to the 27
In short, the 26 is a modernized 27. The barrel length, sights and powerplant size are identical. What differs are the 26’s larger stock, the more modern modular trigger and the modern scope base.
Summary
I have already shot this rifle and noted that it is smooth. It seems to have a square-sectioned mainspring installed, and the lubrication looks right. It doesn’t vibrate when it fires, but it does have some forward recoil.
As I have said, I will probably leave this rifle just as it is. I have other airguns to tune.
I would sure like to hear from anyone who owns a 26. Since mine isn’t stock I’d like to get a perspective on one that is.
BB
Is there any particular reason some rifles have the stock cut off short out front exposing the linkage?
Now on this one I can see the sight adjustment knob may not clear when cocked.
I can see how stocks that cover everything have their sights mounted further back on the barrel behind the pivot bolt and send them upward when cocking. Is it just that simple ?
It always looks unfinished, like someone just hacked the front of the stock off without doing much to smooth it out. On top of that, it looks like they did not spend too much time contouring the entire stock compared to the 27. Time is money I guess
Bob M
Just realized … Diana is actually tossing the bow in favor of the rifle. Thanks for the close-up !
… How did I miss that? Thanks for pointing it out!
Bob M,
She has also dropped the arrow long before the bow heads for the ground!
shootski
Bob M,
The cocking linkage and barrel require a slot in the stock for clearance. If you extend the stock forward to cover the block, you have two thin pieces of wood that will vibrate when shot. They serve no purpose but aesthetics, require a bigger piece of wood to include, usually require a more complex cocking linkage and add weight. All of this also adds cost.
These sights are mounted on the block and will clear everything. Now if it was an Americanized rabbit eared stock it would have a problem.
By the way, all of these years of looking at that logo and I never noticed that before. Duh!
Bob,
The shorter stock is to save money on the wood blanks. On some stocks the savings is significant. Beeman used to tout that very thing on the stocks of his R rifles.
B.B.
B.B.
Sounds like a great gun! At some point please do a report on the metallurgy of springer’s springs. Square section; larger ID on springs last longer, please help separate fact from fiction….
Hopefully your trime will be needed.
-Y
Yogi,
I will try to do what I can. There is a big debate over square-sectioned spring wire.
B.B.
What is it? What is a Diana 24? I have asked this in previous blogs! Semper Fi!
BB,
This most certainly looks like this would be a fun one to play with.
BB,
Though these sights at first appear to be crudely made, they really are quite functional and well designed. These would be much more preferable to the plastic glowy thingy sights so many install today.
J.Lee,
I cannot integrate a D24 into the constellation of Diana rifles. I can, however, tell you mine is a T03, relatively short mild shooting break barrel rifle. I lubed and cleaned it up, installed a Williams peep and enjoy it under 30 yds. JSB RS pellets work well but so do AA Falcons. I think it was a 1996 manufacture. It reminds me of an HW30 in many ways. It had the same sights as the 26 in today’s blog. I use it often for new and younger visitors as its easy to cock and shoot well.
jumping
Jumpin,
Your rifle sounds like a transition gun that was made at the end of the 25/27/35 era and the start of the 24/28/34 timeframe. I say that because of the sights. Diana changed that sight to a metal one at some point and that’s the sight they still install today.
B.B.
BB,
Thanks for fitting my rifle into Diana’s heritage. I checked and its mfg. date is actually 11/98. My graphic is not stamped. The T03 included a non-adjustable trigger. No grooves or rubber button on the butt. Care necessary when standing it up. Shoots the JSB RS at a little over 600 FPS for 6 FPE. SD crept from 4 to 7 over the 3 years since I had it open. Original spring and piston seal. Jumpin
Hello BB,
This is very interesting. I also have a 26 from 9/88. Serial number is 6293xx. Of note is mine does not have the D designation. It is only marked 26. However my trigger seems the same as yours. The rear of the cap on mine has a red dot to the left of the safety lever. Also mine has a stop screw at the rear of the scope base (that doesn’t look like it would be very effective). Yours has an empty hole. Mine has an RWS logo on the left side of the breech block.
My notes show that my 26 (.177 cal) averaged 687 fps with AA Falcons with a 4 fps spread. ( I think I’ll leave well enough alone!). I believe that it is completely stock. My notes show it is but I did purchase it from another individual in the 3 gun deal so I can’t be 100% sure. It sure shoots like a stock Diana. A fair bit of vibration.
I’ll try to get a few pics up later. One interesting thing in my notes is I noted the comp tube diameter to be 1.145 inches. I’m wondering if my research at the time of purchase led me to believe there was more than 1 comp tube diameter used on the 26? I used to be more knowledgeable but I have forgotten. Maybe I’ll investigate.
One last thing is that in your article you noted the main differences between the 26 and 27 but I believe you left out a critical one. If I’m not mistaken the 26 would have a synthetic piston seal (and breech seal). I wouldn’t want readers to try and lubricate their 26 seal like a leather one in a 27.
Enjoy,
Mark N
P.S. I just shot the rifle a couple of times and I find that the stock seems more suited for scope use than the open sights. I just can’t get my eyes low enough to comfortably shoot with the open sights maybe due to a high comb of the stock. Probably why I don’t shoot it much.
BB,
i’m certain that the rifle is mechanicaly identical to the model 28, only the 26 has the plain stock, same as the 48/52. Diana even has the same schematic for both rifles with various trigger module designations and front sights. I also think that the front sight at your rifle is fitted backwards. The trigger is the same as it is on my 48 and the letter D is trigger designation of that particular module.
In my country the model 28 was sold and it is still for sale in most gun shops, the model 26 showed limited sales and withdrawn because of it’s looks.
bullseye
Bullseye,
My Model -28 (from the 1980s, I believe) is.177, shoots in the mid-700s, and has a plain walnut stock and two-screw trigger.
Michael
B.B,
This 26 is very interesting to me as I believe I have the model below and model above it in the immediately post-27 (1980s) Diana lineup.
I have a 24 D and a 28, both just like your 26 D here. I bought them from the second owner, who came by them from an estate sale of the original owner. It wouldn’t surprise me if they had been purchased new as a set and shot rarely, if at all. They have the automatic safety, etc. as well as two adjustment screws in front of the trigger, which is why I picked them up. The 28 is proportioned like the classic 27, but it clearly is more powerful than a 27. Both the 24 D and 28 are in excellent condition (externally, anyway — hah!) and as I recall seemed to shoot strongly over my chrony. The 24 D cocks a bit harder than The Gaylord, my 27, but it is in .177 and produces less muzzle energy. It seems not quite broken in yet.
Might the 26 and the 28 have been Diana’s attempt to replace the 27 with a slightly lower powered and a slightly higher-powered model?
Michael
Hi BB,
The spring is actually from Macarri. I bought a couple of the Gunsmith Tuning Spring Assortment boxes of springs from ARH at some point so I don’t know the exact type.
The square springs are always very smooth to shoot but for me they have always ended up leaving a gun underpowered. I hoped it would ad to the power in this 26 (thicker wire etc.) but I think it actually slowed it down a little. I have read and heard that people get the 26 up to 12 foot pounds, but that seems hard to believe looking at the stroke etc. Maybe in .22?
Carel
Carel,
Thanks for telling us that. I thought you had said that in an email, but I couldn’t find it and didn’t want to guess.
B.B.
B.B.,
Terminology usage question: is square/rectangular and flat synonymous when talking about springs in Airguns?
I know of rectangular, keystone, triangular, flat, coil, and round…any others?
shootski
shootski,
And of course we are talking about the cross-section of the wire that’s used to make the spring — not the spring itself.
I haven’t heard of all those terms, but they do sound synonymous.
B.B.
Carel,
Do you know the bore and stroke of this rifle? Interesting about the square springs. I have also heard that similar strength, the one with the larger ID should last longer. Supposedly this is because all the stress when cocked is on the inner edge of the spring and the larger ID one has greater area over which to spread it.
Not enough of a nerd to know for sure.
How about an update of the classic springer market in Europe. You seem VERY WELL plugged in!
I know these guns were popular, but still kind of surprised how many readers say they have one…
-Y
Hi Yogi,
I don’t know the exact specs, but these guns don’t have a tun of stroke. The barrel does not come backward very far as you can see, and the diameter is small.
Europe is a big place, I don’t speak most of the languages. I do know the airgun market varies wildly from one country to the next. Just like airgun laws. In some EU countries airguns are very restricted, some they are entirely unregulated. Some are weird, like Germany, where a 1000 FTP airbow is no problem but airguns can not exceed 7.5 joules without a license..
It is a niche market in a the EU, just like the US. Also there is no gun-culture to speak of in this part of Europe (Netherlands)
Carel
B.B.,
I also have a sweet-shooting Diana Model 24, T02, which has the ball-bearing sear, made in Sept. 1995. That ball bearing assembly took some noodling to get right after the internal cleanup and re-lube. It has the thinner stock, a safety, no butt pad and that pointy front sight assembly. The pointed front sight seems to disappear to my older eyes, so I glued a piece of metal to the front of the pointed sight to square off the top. It gave me more area to see and I like it better. It easy to cock, has a nice calm shot cycle, is very accurate and is a joy to shoot. This is another case where crimping the dovetail into the muzzle end of the barrel caused the muzzle to be choked nicely for improved accuracy. The reasoning why the German stocks tend to show more linkage up front was a tasty tidbit. It’s great to hang out in the morning and learn with you B.B. and all your smart, creative air gun cohorts!
Will S.,
I am not so sure about the smart part, but we can be cohortive.
Did you not show a picture of your front sight in an earlier blog?
Everyone,
I’m learning a lot today, thanks to all you Diana owners. The bit about the 24 and 28 have been interesting to me.
I wondered whether that D meant the trigger version. I guess it does. Now I want to find out which version. I don’t want to guess. A guess would be it’s a T04, because D is the fourth letter in the alphabet, but I’d like to know for certain.
As far as the length of the stocks goes, I learned that from Dr. Beeman, who wrote about it in his catalogues. He stressed that the R1 stock was longer to hide the breech joint because he felt it looked better. And he said he had to pay extra to get it.
B.B.
Just to clarify the history.
The classic 1950s through early 1980s Diana line-up, in ascending order of size, cost, and power was the 22, 23, 25, 27 and 35. They were all the same base design, just in different sizes, unlike the 1978-88 model 45.
From 1984, they were all replaced by the 24, 26, 28, 34, 36 and 38. These shared a wide variety of parts and common styling. Importantly for the US market, they had safety catches, which their predecessors didn’t. And the 34 and variants of it had longer stroke than the earlier 35, increasing power by 20-30%. There have over the years been variations in cylinder diameter for the 26/28, and cylinder length and therefore piston stroke for the 34 and above models. There have also been at least four types of trigger. A simple one (used on the 24 through the early 34) and, for the 34 and above, also the “TO1” ball sear type, and the more recent TO5 and current TO6 versions.
The 34 remains in production, alongside an economy 34 called the 31, a longer magnum 34 called the 350, and a descendant of the 24/26/28 called the 240.
Hope that helps anyone who has read this far!
PS – by the way the use of TO1 etc to describe Diana triggers is airgunner shorthand. TO[number] means a significant change in much the same way as military weapons have an “A” (eg M16, M16A1, M16A2). With Diana it often, but not always, means a different trigger (and sometimes piston). For example there is are Diana 45TO1s and 50TO1s which are substantially different from the earlier 45 and 50, but use the same trigger as the earlier models.
And, BB, as you asked for owner’s views, I have a 26, that I am 99% sure is unmolested, and it shoots very well. It got a good review from an acquaintance who is a highly skilled spring gun tuner.
I have a few of these Diana things. Current inventory I think being 25, 27S, 1950s 35, 1970s 35, 45, 50, 24, 26, 34, 36, 52, 66. Guess I like them.
Geezer,
It sounds more like you are obsessed with them.
Obsessed? Certainly not. I think I have as many Webleys.
Yeah, maybe I have a lot of airguns. Is that a bad thing? 🙂
Geezer,
You may have one too many at present. That Diana 66 probably needs to go away to give you just the right number! 😉
B.B.
Geezer,
I have to agree with BB. Perhaps one of your Webleys should move into RidgeRunner’s Home For Wayward Airguns. There is a spot available for a post war Mark 1.
Whenever we get on the subject of these old sproingers, most especially when it comes to tuning, I want to get into working on my Webley/Hatsan Tomahawk. I have smoothed it out real nice with TIAT, but there is still quite a thump at the end of the stroke. I am wanting to see how much of that I can get rid of and still keep most of the power.
Where did I put that round tuit?
B. B.,
Not completely off topic….
After reading your 5 part review of the Diana 240 Classic, I was convinced it was going to be my first springer (currently have all multi and single-pump airguns). I have a smaller backyard for plinking and target shooting and the 240 sounds perfect for my purposes. So I ordered it from Pyramyd AIR and it just arrived today! I love the size, weight and feel! It reminds me of a .22 rimfire. Gotta love that German craftsmanship!
So before firing it, is it necessary to lube and clean the barrel? I did purchase the RWS chamber lube to have on hand.
Thanks,
Jeff
Jeff,
I wouldn’t lube yet. But if you have there is no harm.
As for cleaning the barrel — you can do it and after 50 shots the gun will be as accurate as it’s going to be. Or just shoot 500 shots with the same result. After that, no more cleaning unless accuracy falls off.
B.B.
I haven’t done any barrel cleaning or lube yet. For cleaning the barrel, would you just use a few dry patches or use some kind of oil, then dry patch until it comes out clean?
Jeff, use the search feature of the blog for cleaning barrels.
Larry from Algona
Jeff,
I did what Larry from Algona suggested and found several old blogs.. Here are the most pertinent two:
/blog/2006/01/cleaning-airgun-barrels-the-stuff-you-need-to-know/
/blog/2006/02/should-you-clean-a-new-airgun-barrel/
B.B.
Thanks – I should have searched first.
Jeff,
Naah. This way we all get the links.
RR
I like when people link old blogs to the current blog. Like going back in time. 🙂
GF1,
It helps to refresh the rememberer.
RR
Yep
This Diana 26 has no ball bearing trigger. It’s the T05 type trigger, with the plastic trigger blade that caused Diana huge PR problems in the US, when they suddenly switched from metal to plastic without telling.
The T05 was also less refined than the Weihrauch Rekord. The new T06 fixed it ( it’s an excellent unit),
Mel,
There is a Diana 26 with the T05 trigger and you are right, it doesn’t have the ball bearing sear. However, I have the schematic and parts breakdown of other Diana 26s. Most of them do have the ball bearing sear and either T01, T02, T03 or T04 triggers.
B.B.
Mel83,
Just so you and anyone else knows, the Diana 46E that I gave to my son-in-law for Christmas has the T05 trigger. After shooting it off and on for a couple of years I have to say there is absolutely nothing wrong with that trigger. It is SWEET! I myself was leery of the plastic trigger blade, but after pulling on it for a time I have to write the hesitation of people off to phobias of plastic. If I was looking to buy a Diana and it had the T05 trigger, I would not hesitate.
Also this Christmas I bought my grandson an HW30. IMMHO the Rekord may be better, but not by much. My big fingers cannot really tell.
RR
That is one thing I can say I liked about the 46e.
It did have a nice trigger.
Why oh why do some people think Diana ain’t up to snuff. Maybe it’s just me but it seems that way when I read stuff.
I think they are great guns. Some just ain’t my cup of tea. But the 54’s action. You get the right scope on them and they are killer smooth magnum air guns.
Kind of like the FWB 300’s. Both guns should both go down in history as great shooting spring guns.
Once a person gets one they will know what I mean.
And how about those hw30’s. If I ever was to be able to start over that would be the gun to start with. And it would be one that I’m sure would still be getting shot. And probably still be going strong.
At some point in time a person learns that. How long it takes to learn is the problem.
LOL! I am old enough to understand what you are saying.
The big issue with Dianas are they have a very long history and throughout that they varied greatly in quality. Years ago I had the opportunity to buy a Diana from the 20’s for almost nothing. I was not impressed. I did not buy it. Many remember the down times.
This happens with everything. I own one Crosman. It was built in the 40’s. I will not buy a new TCFKAC airgun. They have a ways to go before they get my attention. I am afraid that Rapid Air Weapons will follow suit.
RR
It all has it’s season.
You know what wins out.
The T05 trigger is good. Definitely better than most other triggers of that era. The plastic trigger trouble was not a real quality issue. But Diana changed from metal to plastic without warning, and when US customers complained, they did not react in a way that is appreciated by US customers. (Note that customer service is very different in Europe and US)
Mel
And that is a problem.
Some think that something needs to be a certian way to be good.
It boils down to exsperiance again. Once you done it is when you truly know. And then input from people that actually have owned the product.
And that’s exactly why I have owned many air guns over the last several years. That way I truly know. Yes expensive. But we’ll worth it. And even fun learning the different things along the way. I been that way my whole life. And I have to say I don’t see my self changing anytime soon. Just too much to learn is the best I can say. Fun stuff to me.
Mel83,
So,… in your opinion,…. what are the finer points of the Europe customer service being different from the U.S. version?
I have a Daystate and have had a TX200 and Walther LGU.
Just curious on your take,……… thanks,….. Chris
Chris
Not customer service. Customer reaction with Mel’s comment.
In my opinion the triggers on the quality guns are all nice. Just different manufacturers and types.
Once you own more you start seeing the difference.
GF1,
Customer service, not reaction. The last sentence says customer service. So, how does European customer service differ from the U.S. as in if the customer has a question, service issue, performance issue, etc.?
Chris
Chris
Ok and yep that is a good question.
I can say from exsperiance with the couple of FWB 300’s I had. They both needed some parts at one time or another.
Contacted FWB by email and the parts were on the way in no time. And that’s even them there and me here in the US.
I don’t know about the other manufacturers over there but definitely happy with FWB.
BB
Off Topic- M1 Carbine
Well I managed to convert the Airsoft M1Carbine to full auto in a way that works and requires no modifications other than adding a very small bit of material. Operates similar to an open bolt automatic in that it is always cocked when you let off the trigger. If the BB version retains the same parts it should work on it too. I’ll get deeper into it in your next blog about it.
Bob M
Bob
And at least bb guns that are full auto are ok.
Maybe that’s why not so many responses.
I’m not even going to say anything about full auto conversions. Other than most true semi-auto guns can be converted to full auto.
But yep that is what’s cool about full auto air soft guns and bb guns. But there have been full auto air gun in the past. I almost got a Evanix Speed in full auto before they sold them as full auto’s. I did get one of the semi-auto versions later. Didn’t like the electric firing so got rid of it. Maybe in full auto that gun might of worked good and was probably cool.
GF1
Have the full auto Speed and I do not care for the sound of the motor cycling the action. Now the semi auto Barrage I have has a bleed air operating action that I need to look into one day.
Airsoft has full auto all over the place and that’s good for realistic gamming but accuracy is not top notch. They were never meant for target shooting and I don’t expect it from this airsoft M1 either. Just for fun.
Most full autos are somewhat boring to shoot as far as the action goes but watching the bolt assembly on this M1 cycle back and forth while rotating is a real kick, literally too. The sight, sound and feel is there, all we need now is the “Smell of gunpowder in the morning”
Bob M
Bob
That’s what I didn’t like about my semi-auto speed I had. Plus it wasn’t accurate. So two minuses for me.
And yes in a way with air soft. I had a few air soft guns I shot like they was pellet guns and they were accurate. But it was the type of airsoft guns I had. I liked the ones I had.
And yes with the action and sound. But you was talking converting to automatic. I’m sure people are out there that don’t understand how that works.
And sorry. But full auto will never be boring to me. And I’m talking at the target and the way the action works. Pretty cool to me the way it all happens actually.
GF1
I really don’t mind not having everyone stop what they are doing and jumping in with me. I am kind of on the fringe a lot and off topic but there is a great silent majority out there who just read this blog without commenting and may be interested. Diversity.
Many probably don’t even know the future BB M1 Carbine is actually the same airsoft rifle I have now. They just changed the barrel and mag to use steel BB’s. Everything I’m doing directly applies to the BB firing version that’s not even out yet.
Airsoft can be fairly accurate at a close range for sure but unless you have barrels made for accuracy distant shots are challenging. I have quite a few and wanting better performance from them actually got me into modifying them to shoot BB’s.
Did not intend to state that shooting full auto was boring, it’s a blast. I meant a lot of the rifles just spit out the ammo without much going on visually compared to the operating open bolt on the M1 going through rapid cycling right in front of you. I agree with you on the amazing engineering that makes it all happen. I really enjoy modifying it, and the guns. Very challenging.
Bob M
Bob
So how do you like your Barrage. I love my Bullmaster. If I didn’t get such of a good deal on my Bullmaster I would of probably got a Barrage or a Sortie-tact. Still might get a Sortie-tact.
GF1
To be honest I have not shot it yet. I don’t care for the stock set up.
I almost always wait for an outstanding sale price when I buy an Airgun and this one happened to be in the right place at the right time. I was in the market for a powerful semi auto to modify but like so many other things in my life it got set aside for things with higher priorities. Next thing you know it gets put away in storage from house cleaning.
I think a u tube video convinced me to go for it. Anyway I always have something interesting to do in the future. Beginning to think I may run out of life before I get to complete all my projects, like kit cars, muscle cars, pickup trucks, home upgrades, yard work, motorcycles and off roading. Taking care of my ex is really setting me back too. Hard to plan things and I hate to pay someone for something I can do myself , always have.
That Sortie is real tempting but I need to slow down. I have a few magnum spring pistols already and an AR6 PCP pistol but semi is nice. You had to remind me!
Bob M
Bob
I’m the same way. I’m with you. Definitely more on my mind to do than I have time for.
And ok got to ask. Why don’t you like the Barrage stock?
That’s exactly what made me think I wanted one instead of the Bullmaster bullpup. And I should say. Absalutly no regrets getting the Bullmaster. I do like the bullpup design. It’s just that I have always shot with the conventional stocks. Just thought I would like the Barrage stock better than the Bullmaster. Maybe I’m more happy with my Bullmaster now after your comment.
But let me know why with your Barrage.
GF1
The Barrage.
The front of the stock reminds me of an elephant trunk. Ditto with the pistol grip surface. Don’t care for the way the shoulder stock attaches to the lower pistol grip, the mag storage position, all the blank real estate forward of the trigger and the front sight mounting to the air bottle. Pretty much the entire stock. My plan was to replace the entire stock with a made up metal one or adapt an airsoft machine gun stock.
It reminds me of an ergonomically correct experiment that turned into a nightmare.
I have a Gladius, an Indy, an Armour and if you stretch the meaning a bull pup a GTK 290. So I like them too.
Bob
Yep that’s the same with me with the Bullmaster stock. Don’t care for the looks. But it sure can shoot so at least happy about that.
And I like that it’s a bullpup and I thought maybe a regular style stock would be easier to shoot. But the bullpup design to me is easy to shoot. They seem to point easy. Bringing the weight closer in to the body I believe is what helps.
And maybe one day I’ll try my hand at making a wood stock for the Bullmaster. That is if I ever get any free time.
B.B.,
Will you be doing the P.A. Cup this year?
Chris
Chris,
That’s my hope and plan.
B.B.
B.B.,
Well,…. if the P.A. Cup was in my backyard before,…. it is darn near on my doorstep now. I was in disbelief when I saw the location. (30-ish, maybe 45 min.) I might have a pop-over to check it out. I would love to do a bench rest, but I am very ill practiced and would never consider. Work is not looking good (actually very good) and looking to get busier. I take care of things on the home front first and do not push myself to exhaustion. I ain’t a young pup no more. Retired and well practiced,… I would be all in.
If it is your wishes to make it,… I certainly hope you can. From what I have seen,… nice cabins on premise and even golf carts to putter here to there. Nice!
Chris
Chris
Go there and do the bench rest. Seriously. Nothing to loose. Right?
If it was that close to me I would have no excuse.
Sounds like fun times to me.
GF1,
Funny you said that. I would consider it a slot ill deserved and better to have gone to someone whom has done their “homework”. I have not.
Like that, I always watched people who wore “Harley” T-shirts and would never own one. I never did until I owned one. (2000 Wide Glide) I do not want to be a poser.
I may have the goods (RW and M-rod) and the some of the skills to do it,….. but I would not do honor to someone whom has “put in their time”. The limited slots are better to go to them.
Like I said, well practiced and rested and I would be ALLLLLL over it. I am not, therefore I will not. Simple principle.
Chris
Chris
Wrong view.
Go there and try. Not there and show.
Not necessarily to win. But to have the exsperiance.
I was diddling around this morning and found a couple of interesting things.
One of the things I found was that Stoeger is getting into the PCP world. For years they have been involved in sproingers, but now they are coming out with PPP PCPs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPqcRK9F7r4
Another thing I found was about the history of multi-pumps.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNDNPUv09k0
I myself would like to have a Daystate Sportsman Mark 1.
RR
I had a Stoeger spring gun and liked it. Definitely would like to see them get into pcp’s and even more so ppp’s
GF1,
I was going to get a S20 a while back, but the trigger was needing rework to be decent so I passed. I am too spoiled anymore.
RR
For $20 you should of got it.
GF1,
For $20 I would have got it. It was the Stoeger S20.
RR
Oh yeah I see now.
The other day at the bowling alley they had bowling pins on sale 10 for $30 so I could not resist picking them up. I figured they would make good reactive targets. As I thought about it a pellet gun would destroy them before long. Well what about a spud cannon?
I try to refrain from putting air cannons on the blog but this was just too much fun. We had some friends over and the inlaws. After a few shots the neighbors came over to see what all the racket was about and joined in. This was a big hit. And I have to say I got the first strike. It took a while to figure out the pins need to be closer than on the bowling alley for the potato cannon to get the pin action necessary to knock them all down.
The spuds leave the canon at about 500 feet per second and are in the range of 2 oz giving 486 ft-lbs energy.
My bowling ball goes about 17 fps at 16 pounds with a energy of 72 ft-lbs energy.
So the potato cannon has plenty of energy it is just a little small to get any pin action with the standard pin setup.
Here is a picture.
ps A small shot of Ballistol in the intake port really keeps it running smooth.
Don
Don,
Too COOL! I have never made one but have shot one. It did an easy 100 yards with the right inclination.
I would like to see a close up (side view) of the center 12-18″. What is the string/rope/rod going back? Remote fired? Secured to an adjustable rest as well? “Dial it in” just like a ground cannon? Propellant? Igniter?
Chris
Chris U,
This one is pneumatic, that is the air hose. Firing is with a simple ball valve, talk about a heavy trigger pull.
If you want more discussion we should take it off blog, send me an email to benji-don at comcast.net
Don
Don
Now that’s even cooler. Love that it’s air powered. I thought that but wasn’t sure.
How much psi do you normally use for each shot?
And again. Cool stuff. Your making me want to build a air powered one. All ours have been ignition type.
Don
Don’t do that. If you bring it up then let’s hear about it.
Let’s hear it.
GF1,
I try to focus on pellet and some bb guns but I will bite on this one. But potato cannons are a diff subject than the blog and I really think they should stay that way even when they are air powered.
The typical power of a starting fluid or other similar powered spud cannon is about 30 to 40 psi. I use regulated air at 60 to 80 psi most of the time. My compressor is 120 psi at that pressure it can out perform the combustion cannons that are safe and made with pressure rated PVC. Like I say I have pushed the envelope with steel cannons since I was in High school. Anyway at 125 psi with a 1 1/2 inch PVC barrel and sufficient reservoir you will not find the potato and it goes out of sight when shot straight up.
On a funny side my mom was upset that we did not collect the spud bullets and fix them for dinner. I guess that is from going through the great depression.
Don
Don
At least with the ignition type you get the smell of fresh fried potatoes. 🙂
Don,
I am most envious of your personal range you have going there. That is one of the round tuits I have been looking for.
Great little party gun.
RR,
I told Kate the shooting bench can double as a wine and cocktail bar. It did work she even helped.
I also told her the other day our dueits are multiplying much faster than our round tuits so she went to Lake Tahoe for a sewing retreat and is then heading to Ireland for a couple weeks and I am not invited.
Don
Don
Sounds like you got alot more todoits right now with her trip.
Hopefully you have some wrest time scheduled in.
And don’t get in trouble while miss Benji-Don is gone. 😉
Ya know those wild airgun get togethers. 🙂
Yep the Pacific Airgun show is this comming weekend. I plan on making up for the hearing aids she badgered me into. Got to admit the hearing aids are worth it. I did stop pull over right off to figure out what was wrong with my pickup though, it had some noises I hadn’t heard before.
Don
Reminds me of the farmer neighbor when I was a kid.
He said before he got his hearing aid his old Chevy truck was like driving a Cadillac. After he got the hearing aids he said it was a rattle trap. He said after that the hearing aids were off when he drove the truck.
Don,
Yeah, but it is nice to hear the peep frogs and the tweety birds again.
RR
With out a doubt I like listening to nature.
But them frogs and birds can be pretty noisy at times.
But yes glad they are there. Love the mocking birds we have here.
Don
Yep cool stuff for sure. We got one out at my brother’s house. He even made different diameter and legnth barrels that screw right on to the main body. The 1-1/2″ barrel is great for long range shooting at 100 yards.
If anyone has never shot a spud gun I strongly suggest they should give it a try. For sure fun stuff.
Off topic. Did you ever wonder if there was some inherent advantage to the airguns that have the barrel concentric to the compression cylinder? The TX200 for example, or Diana 48/52/54/56, I am sure there are more like it. Anyway, I bought a Hatsan Dominator, an underlever, (Thanks for the tip BB) which appears that it is yet another concentric style rifle. Right off, I find it remarkably easy to shoot compared to other springers I have.
MMCM13,
I might be wrong, but I believe that it has to do with how efficiently the air is transferred through the port. A centered/concentric setup will do it better than an offset one. I am not sure that either style has anything to do with how “easy to shoot” it is however.
Chris
MMCM13,
I am glad you are enjoying the Dominator. Right now Hatsan USA is having a close out sale on them. I have been trying real hard to resist getting one. I think what most people in the airgun world are going to find is that the Dominator was a hidden gem.
Quite frankly, I do not know if I should hoop, holler and dance with joy or gnash my teeth, growl and kick the dog in frustration. The world of airgunning is indeed entering a golden age. Everywhere I turn I see new airguns I wish to play with or I find out about an old one I would like see move into RRHFWA.
What would be perfect would be to open an airgun store that specialized in slightly used airguns and an airgun museum. Anyone want to send my some investment capital?
R.R.
About the front sight, I did not take a pic of it till this morning. Here it is, in case the idea might be helpful. It is a piece of household copper wire, hammered flat, filed to shape and crazy glued to the front sight. If it is a little askew after the glue sets, file the top square.
Hello Tom,
I too own a model 26. I purchased it new in 1984. What I wanted was a serious adult air rifle and that was exactly what I got and have been very happy with that purchase. Like your 26 the trigger on mine was set perfect. I’ve been thinking about taking a look at the main spring and piston seal. Can you advise me as to where I might obtain these parts.
Bob N
Bob,
Welcome to the blog.
You can get parts for most Dianas including the 26 at T.W. Chambers in the UK.
https://www.gunspares.co.uk/
B.B.
B.B.
Thanks for the info, I ordered a new main spring and piston head seal today. I can’t wait to do the tune up.
Bob N