HW 30S — the Rekord trigger: Part 4
The HW 30S I am testing seems to be a new version.
This report covers:
- Removing the trigger
- The mainspring is lubricated
- Remove the Rekord
- The safety
- Factory lubrication?
- Clean off the grease
- Cock the trigger
- Assemble the rifle
- One last step — adjust the trigger
- The test
Today I remove the Rekord trigger from my new HW 30S, to clean and adjust it. I have written a lot about the Rekord in the past, but rarely about one in a new airgun. My R1 was a new one I wrote a whole chapter about, but that was in the R1 book. So this report is special. To work on the trigger we have to remove it from the rifle. We start with a rifle that is uncocked.
Removing the trigger
First remove the barreled action from the stock. The forearm has a single screw on the bottom and the triggerguard has two screws.
Remove the single screw from the bottom of the forearm.
Now remove both triggerguard screws. The front one is long and may be tight. The rear one screws into a nut that’s in the bottom of the trigger box and shouldn’t be too tight. The triggerguard is inlet tight inside the stock and may need persuasion to come out the first few times.
The barreled action and triggerguard come out of the stock.
The mainspring is lubricated
At this point you can see part of the mainspring through the cocking slot, and on this rifle I can see that the mainspring has been lubricated. It’s only lubed lightly and when I tune the rifle I will replace that grease, but it’s there. Not all spring guns are lubed at the factory.
Through the cocking slot we can see that the mainspring has been lubricated at the factory.
Remove the Rekord
Now it’s time to remove the trigger. It’s held in by two pins that run across the spring tube. We will start by tapping the front pin out, left to right.
Tap the front pin out first, left to right.
Then tap the rear pin out, left to right. Now the Rekord trigger assembly will slide out of the end cap. On a new gun it will be tight. Take note that the two pins are the same diameter but different lengths. The long one goes in front.
The longer pin goes in the front.
You’re not done. The safety is still inside the rifle. The safety is a pin that goes in the left side of the base block, which is where we removed the trigger. Just pull it out. At its small end, the one that’s inside the rifle, is a small coiled mainspring we don’t want to lose. It’s loose on the safety pin, but it’s tight enough to remain on if you are careful.
After the trigger assembly comes out, the safety is next.
With the trigger out, look and see how it has been lubricated. I have seen a couple new ones that were swimming in grease. This one is clean and looks fine to me.
Rekord trigger from the HS 30S that’s being tested. This trigger is clean and not over lubricated.
Now let’s look at the graphic of the Rekord that’s in my R1 book. It shows screw 52b, which is Beeman’s designation. That screw adjusts the sear engagement and should never be adjusted unless you get an airgun that has been abused.
This is the picture that tells all. Lube the sear engagement where the drawing shows and I use moly grease for it. If you study the trigger parts in the drawing you will see that the sear does not, in fact, restrain the piston against the mainspring. The sear holds the lever that restrains the piston catch that restrains the piston/mainspring. By getting a series of levers involved, many dozens of pounds of force is reduced to ounces.
Clean off the grease
At this point, it’s time to clean off the grease from the trigger. This is where some airgunsmiths and hobbyists get anal and strip the trigger to pieces, then put everything into a sonic cleaner. You can do that, of course. But why? After you’re done you’re going to lubricate those parts with a light coat of grease again. Why not just leave well enough alone and leave the grease where it is? That’s especially true for a trigger that is lubricated as lightly as this one.
That is the only place you have to clean this trigger. Get rid of all the grease on both sides of the sear at the contact point (arrow). To do this the trigger has to be cocked.
No need to polish all the parts
Another fruitless endeavor is to polish all the mating surfaces of all the parts. Maybe it makes you feel better but it is fruitless work and wasted time — unless there is a real problem, which was undoubtedly caused by the last anal guy who had his mitts on the trigger parts. Let me tell you a story.
Rolls Royce once bought an automatic transmission from General Motors for their cars. Their engineers stripped the sample to pieces and found a piston whose finish was a little rough. So they carefully polished the part and then assembled the transmission. It didn’t work anymore. When they asked General Motors about it they were told that piston was supposed to be rough in order to function.
I’m not saying that the parts in a Record trigger have finishes that allow them to work, but I am telling you that they work just fine as designed and fabricated. If you just have to polish something, get a pair of black combat boots and go to town!
Cock the trigger
To clean the sear contact area, the trigger has to be cocked. Do that by pressing down on the back of the piston sear lever (part 50d) in the drawing.
To cock the trigger, press down on the back of the piston sear lever (part 50d) with a screwdriver until the sear catches it.
When the sear is clean I fire the trigger, then coat the back of the tongue (part 52a) that is exposed in the viewing hole, with moly. You can use other greases if you prefer.
Here I have put moly grease on the rear of the tongue (part 52a). The arrow points to the tiny nut that holds the rear triggerguard screw.
That picture is an extreme enlargement. The actual amount of moly grease I used is miniscule. That grease will transfer to the bottom of the upper rear sear lock (part 50a) every time the trigger is cocked.
You are going to need the trigger cocked to assemble the rifle, so leave it cocked for now.
Assemble the rifle
Put the safety with spring back into its hole. Then install the cocked trigger assembly. I keep a finger pushing in on the safety button while assembling the trigger in the rifle. Once the trigger assembly is in the end cap, line up the front pin hole and slide the pin in. This takes some fiddling, so be patient. It will go. It might help to use a small pin punch from the opposite side to move the trigger assembly around until the hole aligns.
The reason the trigger is cocked all this time is twofold. First, if it isn’t part 50d will push it down so the pin holes don’t align and second, the safety cannot be installed unless part 50a is out of its way.
Now push the second (the rear) trigger pin in. Then pull the trigger and finish assembling the rifle.
One last step — adjust the trigger
Now to adjust the trigger. It is clean and properly lubricated. Loosen the rear trigger adjustment screw (the silver one hanging down behind the trigger blade) until you have a trigger pull you like. My advice is to try for a one-pound pull. Each trigger will be a little more or less sensitive and it’s up to you to make that call.
In Part 2 I told you the two-stage Rekord trigger on this HW 30S had a first stage pull of 12 ounces and a stage two pull of 1 pound 15 ounces. After I cleaned, lubricated and adjusted the trigger stage one is now 6 ounces and stage two breaks at 12 ounces. Stage two is as crisp as a glass rod breaking. This is one of the nicest Rekord triggers I have ever worked on, and that may be because it is on a 30S and not an R9 or R1. I don’t know, but I really like the way this one came out.
The rifle, in contrast, now seems to fire a bit harsh. It’s probably because the trigger is so nice. But at the end of Part 2 I told you that the next step was to lube-tune the rifle before I mounted a scope and tested it for accuracy again. I believe I will check velocity before and after that lube tune, because we all wondered if my rifle wasn’t a bit slow in the Part 2 test from needing more of a break-in.
This series is going great. Sometimes I need to work on something that I know is going to work out right, and this HW 30S was just the ticket.