Gauntlet 2 precharged pneumatic rifle from Umarex: Part 1

Gauntlet 2
The Gauntlet 2 from Umarex.

This report covers:

  • Twenty-five
  • First impression
  • Description
  • Regulated
  • Air reservoir
  • Power
  • Degassing
  • Manual
  • Slender
  • Stock
  • Magazine 
  • Bolt handle
  • Trigger
  • Scope base
  • Baffles
  • No longer a PPP
  • Summary

Are you ready for something new? Today we begin looking at the Gauntlet 2 PCP from Umarex


I asked for and received my test rifle in .25 caliber. It also comes in .22, and if I was buying one that’s what it would be. But a lot of readers want to see the big quarter-inch bore more often, so here we go.

First impression

Wow! That’s my first impression. Even the box shows a lot of attention to detail, as it is light and made from cardboard products, yet it is as sturdy as it is possible to make.

Then I picked up the rifle and wow, again! The designers have done a lot to improve the rifle, yet I can recognize the Gauntlet at its heart.  I’ll address the changes as we go.


The Gauntlet 2 weighs 7 lbs. 10 oz. I know the web page says more and so does the manual, but I weighed mine on a postal scale. There was no magazine in it at the time. Of course a scope will add weight and you have to scope it as there are no sights.

It’s 47 inches long, so this is a big air rifle. The barrel is 28-1/4-inches long, which means it’s going to get all the power the air can give.


This rifle is regulated. In the .25 I’m testing the reg is set at 2100 psi. In .22 it’s set at 1900 psi.

Shop Benjamin Rifles

Air reservoir

Both calibers of the new rifle fill to 310 bar, which is 4500 psi. Unfortunately that means you only get a single full fill from a carbon fiber tank, but perhaps the designers were thinking most owners would use a small compressor to fill. Now that those small compressors run on both house current and car batteries, they are as portable as the airguns. And you will still get many partial fills from that carbon fiber tank.

The air reservoir cylinder is removable and holds 24 cubic inches (393.29 cc) of air. That’s quite an increase from the 213cc of the first Gauntlet tank. That and the regulator give you up to 70 powerful shots in the .22 and up to 50 in the .25. The air cylinder sticks out several inches from the forearm, which it didn’t with Gauntlet One.

There is a small manometer built into the right side of the rifle, where the removable reservoir screws in. The left side features a Foster quick-disconnect, which is hunky dory with me.


Talk about power — in .25 this Gauntlet 2 is supposed to give up to 51 foot-pounds. In .22 the power tops out at 33 foot-pounds. That’s a significant difference.


The rifle comes with a degassing tool, if you don’t want to remove the air reservoir. There is a port for the tool on the left side of the stock, and the manual tells you how to do it.


The manual is written specifically for the .25-caliber rifle that I’m testing. I have to imagine the manual you get with the .22 rifle is specific to that caliber, as well. I don’t believe I have ever seen this in an airgun manual where the airgun comes in multiple calibers. It sure gives me confidence that someone was looking at a .25 when they wrote it.


If I had to pick the nicest feature it would be the slender parts on the synthetic stock. Both the pistol grip and where you put your off hand are quite slim.


The stock is synthetic, as mentioned, and I find it very ergonomic.The cheekpiece adjusts up and down, though all the way down is as high as I want it, with my fat face. The butt ends in a grippy black rubber pad.

Whenever I mention that a stock is synthetic a small number of readers go into low earth orbit over whether the butt is hollow. All I can say is it sure doesn’t sound like it.

There are two M-Lok slots on either side of the forearm, for those who want to add accessories.

I find the light green stock color pleasing. The contrasting black cheekpiece looks just right to me, because it matches the color of the metalwork.


The rifle is a repeater — 10 shots in .22 and 8 in .25. The magazine is rotary. In my 9-part test of the first Gauntlet the magazines jammed and caused lots of feeding problems, so I will be watching the two magazines that came with this rifle very closely.

The bolt will not go forward after the last shot. The magazine prevents it.

The rifle also comes with a single-shot tray. I will use it as well in the accuracy tests.

Bolt handle

The bolt knob is cylindrical, fat and knurled. Like the first Gauntlet, the bolt takes a mighty pull backwards to cock the rifle, and the knurled knob helps out. The web page says the cocking force has been reduced by 15 percent but I have no way of testing that.


The trigger is a modified crossbow trigger like the one Crosman put in their 160 rifle. The website calls it a single-stage, but at this juncture I feel two definite stages. Perhaps when I air up the rifle that will change.

I will say this — I plan to adjust the trigger to my satisfaction, since I know how good it can be. I’ll probably do that after the velocity test in Part 2.

Scope base

The Gauntlet 2 has a Picatinney base atop the receiver. The magazine does stick up above the top of the scope base, but only slightly. It’s also offset to the right side. Even so, two-piece scope rings will be needed. I had one heck of a time finding scope rings with bases small enough for the original Gauntlet that had an 11 mm dovetail, but a Picatinney rail is goverened by a military specification, so it should be right on.


The shroud is removable for cleaning and it does have baffles. The claim is an 8 dB noise reduction from the baffles.

No longer a PPP

The Gauntlet 2 is no longer a price-point PCP (a PCP that retails for under $300). At $430 it’s out of that category, though not very far. For all the features you get I have to say it’s still looking like a great value. And the beauty of that is, given all the other fine air rifles on the market, we don’t have to denigrate the others or make comparisons. The Gauntlet 2 can stand on its own merits.


We have a real opportunity here to test a powerful new PCP. When I tested the first Gauntlet I got talked into bumping the barrel for the stability of the point of impact. I’m not going to do that with this one. If it shifts while I handle it I’ll make a remark; otherwise I’m testing it like any other PCP.

This is a big .25-caliber rifle, and it’s also obviously a hunting rifle. With 50 shots available you can leave your buddy bottle in the car. Most hunting trips get just a few shots unless you are cleaning out rats or pigeons. Also, as powerful as it is, this rifle  has to be tested out to at least 50 yards. 

59 thoughts on “Gauntlet 2 precharged pneumatic rifle from Umarex: Part 1”

  1. BB,

    More power and more refined. If it came with more accuracy nobody should find fault with the more cost.


    PS: Section Description 1st paragraph last sentence, “Of course a scope will add weight and you have to scope it as tyhere (there) are no sights.”

  2. BB
    I like it.
    If it’s as accurate as my gen1 Gauntlet it will be a winner. And like wise on the trigger. I have my trigger adjust very nice. And yes it’s definitely 2 stages and adjust in many ways.

    But something I’m wondering about. Are you sure the gauge and the Foster fitting is in the gun and not attached to the bottle. The whole idea of the first Gauntlet is you could swap out the bottle if you was out in the field. Like the 13 cubic inch Air Venturi regulated hpa bottles.

    I hope they kept the gun able to accept the other bottles because I have about 5 of the 13 cubic inch Air Venturi bottles. It be nice to be able to use them when I get a gen2 Gauntlet.

    Oh and also since we are talking bottles my gen1 Gauntlet has not leaked down since I bought it back when the gen1 came out. Hope the gen2 is the same.

    • GF1,

      The gauge and Foster fill does not come off when I unscrew the bottle from my HM1000X. If you get one of these things, you may have to change out valves on your bottles. Either that or buy a spare for this one.

      • RR
        The way its looking on the gen2 Gauntlet is the gauge and Foster fitting is now part of the gun. Well the best I can tell from the limited pictures I have seen of the Gauntlet 2.

        So that tells me the regulator is now built into the gun which is not a bad thing. At least now the regulator should always be consistent no matter what bottle you use. I have my Air Venturi bottles set at a couple different regulated pressures for different guns I use them on.

        So if the new Gauntlet is just a screw on bottle that can go to 4500 psi that’s cool. But your more than likely not going to be changing out the Gauntlet 2 bottle in the field if that’s the case.

        Hope BB reads this and shows a picture of the Gauntlet 2 bottle attached to the gun. And let us know if it can be unscrewed or screwed on under pressure. I’m betting not.

        • GF1,

          It can probably be screwed on and off under pressure. My HM1000X can. Many of the modern bottle PCPs work that way. Even some of the reservoir tube PCPs are like that, though mostly Hatsan. This allows you to carry a spare filled bottle.

  3. Hi everybody,

    yesterday I shot the HW45 (P1) sitting from a rest again. I did five ten-shot groups, only paying attention to group size, not position on the target since the pistol is sighted in for one-handed shooting).

    I noticed again that this is *hard*. When I’m shooting the HW 45 standing and one-handed with a dot sight, I can shoot it about as well as other pistols.

    But shooting it rested makes it much harder to find a consistent hold. I rest the pistol grip on my bag and use the “Col. Bonsall” technique (apply pressure with the middle finger, other fingers just rest on the gun). I lightly touch the pistol and right hand with my left hand for stability.

    I notice the gun “wants” to shoot accurately. Sometimes I get two or even three distinct shot groups that are quite tight. Sometimes they are also in a vertical or diagonal line, a clear sign that I’m not controlling the recoil consistently (the results are still better than my standing results, but relatively speaking, they are not that great for rested results).

    Another result is that H&N Excite Econ seem to perform about as well as RWS Club. That’s not too surprising given that the HW75 seems to like the Econs (the barrel is probably the same type).
    This is both good news given that the Club cost me a little less than a cent per shot (if I buy 11 tins at a time) and the Econ are a little cheaper than that 🙂
    Clearly, I am the limiting factor so far, so this is mostly a guess and there’s little reason to try better pellets 🙂


      • @BB: I wonder what the Clubs are, anyway. They might be match pellets that didn’t quite pass the strict quality tests.
        They have a ring around the base of the skirt. R10s never seem to have that (mine certainly don’t).
        Meisterkugeln *sometimes* seem to have it, depending on what pictures you look at. If Meisterkugeln are Clubs with tighter tolerances, they might be even better. I think I’ll buy a tin next time I order stuff.

        Given that the pistol doesn’t do badly with H&N Excite Econ and Sport, their Finale XXX pellets might not be bad either…

        @Ade: I’ve tried resting my forearms before and it didn’t feel as stable as resting the pistol grip.
        I totally agree about the light hold. That’s what I do when I shoot the pistol one-handed and what I *try* to do when shooting rested.

        I guess I’ll try again and see whether I can find a better tradeoff…

    • I’ve had great results with the HN Ecxite Econ II. If memory serves they were equal to or less expensive per shot than the Crosman Premier Wadcutters in the 1250 pellet milk carton and RWS Hobby Pellets, and Daisy PecisionMax Wadcutters, but were among the most accurate of other, more expensive target pellets I tested. I’m in the middle of retesting all my pellets lately.

      • Roamin Greco,

        I’ve been buying the Crosman Wadcutters in the carton for years, whenever I can find them packaged that way, because they are so cheap and pretty accurate in some of my guns. I don’t see them that way very often now, they are, lately, called Premium Competition and are in 500 count, aggravating, tinless blister packs in .177 caliber. I’ve also used Excite Plinking pellets, because they were cheap, but they’re not usually as accurate for me as the Crosmans. I’ve never heard of Excite Econ II. Are you saying they’re cheaper AND more accurate than the milk carton Crosmans? Where do you find them? Are they new? I’m in the US, by the way.


        • H&N Excite Econ II, $4.99 for 500 = 1 cent per shot.
          Crosman Competition, $19.99 for 1250 = 1.6 cents per shot.

          In 2 guns the Econ IIs were way more accurate than the Crosman and almost as accurate as the best target pellets I tested. They are my go to pellet.

          And thanks for your response regarding the co2 guns. I was looking at them, too.

          • Roamin Greco,

            How long have you been buying the Econ II s? I thought I had some of every pellet in the Excite line, but this is new to me. It’s been a couple of years since I bought any wadcutters. I expected them to just be rebranded Plinking, but I see that they’re different from the Plinking pellets in the skirt area, so I will be ordering some. With the buy 3 get 1 deal they’re less than 1 cent. The Crosman pellets I have in the carton (pointed and flat nosed) all came in an order I placed online where they were being clearanced, I guess, because the price was under $12 and that was so much cheaper than everywhere else, I bought 10 of each. When I buy them now they come from a local store and are in the blister packs of 500, but they’re priced better than I can get them online even with free shipping. They’re very close to the Econ price.


          • Roamin Greco,

            Since you mentioned RWS Hobby pellets, be aware that RWS now packages them and many others in 300 pellet tins instead of 500. And the price isn’t lower.


          • Half step, I had to back up to here to reply to you before. As I say, I consider myself a “newbie,” but I definitely have the bug. Last year I bought a ton of different pellets, but for some reason, I got several tins of Econ IIs. So my prices are 2020 prices. And yes, because pellets are packed in different amounts, I compare them by the per pellet price, without considering discounts or shipping cost, just the basic price on P.A.

            I’ve been fortunate in a way, that I’ve been able to time my pellet purchases with purchases of other things from P.A., so that I get free shipping.

            But I will say, if I learned anything from this blog, it’s that every airgun, even of the same model, likes different pellets. So your milage may very. Maybe Gamos, Hobbys, Crosman do it for you. Then there is JSB “Simply” pellets, which are pretty good too.

  4. Good morning everyone. I think I finally figured out why my Umarex Embark shoots to the right, and it was staring me in the face the whole time. Here are two pictures. First the muzzle:

    • So it looks like the entire bore is shifted to the right from the shooter’s point of view, and is probably pointing left as well. Pretty sure it’s too late to return it. I finally have it shooting fairly well, though. It likes to be shot off sandbags, so that’s a plus, and after a good cleaning and a 1,000 shots, the trigger has smoothed out and the accuracy is there, especially with a peep sight. But I have to say the second stage is so long, that it is really hard to shoot well. I had to swap out the peep to get just a few more clicks of leftward adjustment to get on target, so I will not need to bend the barrel, but if I did, I think it would need to be bent in an S curve to align the muzzle end of the bore with the dovetail.

      The good thing, is that I learned a lot about spring piston guns, and shooting them, and because it’s only about $100, I wasn’t afraid to take the action out of the stock and experiment with TIAT. I still may try to bend the barrel and maybe mod the trigger. We’ll see.

      But my bottom line is that this particular specimen is not good for teaching kids. It takes too long to break in and too much effort to shoot well. While the sights are pretty good, the trigger is really bad. So I’m going to go back to P.A. for something else to use for that purpose. Any suggestions are welcomed.

      • Beeman R7 / HW30S. It is what I bought for my grandson.

        I would shop around for one if I was going to buy one. I found an almost new one for $200. You can find new ones for just a little over $300.

        If you do get one of these, you will never want to get rid of it. Just ask BB.

        P.S. I would most definitely tinker with this thing. What do you have to lose? Forget S curving the barrel. Just mount a scope with both knobs cranked to the center position and try to bend the barrel in small increments to have the reticle line up with the “group”. Bend a little, shoot a little.

        Tinker with the trigger. There used to be some info on line on how to improve the trigger some. There were some that would take up a lot of that long 2nd stage.

        • RR, I have an R7 and love it. The stock is too big for the kids though. I originally got the Embark because 1) BB reviewed it and seemed to like it, 2) it has a 12″ length of pull and came with a 1″ spacer for future growth, 3) as a springer, all you need are pellets, and 4) it’s pretty low power and easy to cock, and 5) it’s the official rifle of the SAR program, which I thought would expand in my home state. However, my particular rifle (hopefully not endemic to this model) was disappointing and instead of being my kids’ learning tool, turned into Dad’s project rifle.

          The reason I think this barrel needs two bends is that I am imagining if I just bent the barrel left and got the peep sight to be at the center of its windage adjustment range, if any plinking would be done at shorter or longer distances, then Point of Impact would be off left-to-right as well as top-to-bottom, but if the last few inches of the barrel were lined up with the dovetail (and therefore the peep sight) then I am thi king the left to right parallax problem would be minimized and I would primarily be only concerned with holdover and hold-under. Maybe I’m over thinking it, but I can always try one bend and then if I want, I can try another.

          I really don’t want to get anything too military-looking for their first rifle, so I am thinking of either this:
          Mainly because of the adjustable stock or a small multi-pump like the Crosman 760 or Daisy 880. The 760 was my first air rifle, and I was pretty good with it, and it sure gave my skinny arms a workout by the 10th pump. LoL.

          Oh and now that I am resigned to tinkering more, I may do something with the trigger. Originally I didn’t want to do too much because I wanted to just see the best the rifle could do without violating the SAR rules about modifications, but I don’t think that’s much of a concern anymore.

          • RG,

            Shoot for 25 yards with the scope as I said above. If you can get your sights close at that range, you will be good for less.

            Forget the TR5. It is a cheap Chinese copy of the Russian Baikal, which were not really that great. I think GunFun1 had one of them. Ask him what he thought of it.

            The 760 might be promising. It will shoot pellets or bbs reasonably well.

            Then of course you could cut the R7 stock down and order a new stock for when they get bigger. Steve Corcoran makes some pretty nice ones.


      • Roamin,

        Bummer about the offset bore! At least you found the problem. Keeping to my maximum effective range approach, the gun may still be OK for plinking at reduced range.

        From my experience, all airguns benefit from a break in. I shoot 100 pellets before I consider any (serious) sighting in and 500 shots before I start thinking about checking for the “golden pellet”.

        I’ll second RR’s recommendation for a HW30, Weihrauch makes some really nice airguns!


        • Thanks. See my response to RidgeRunner, above. I learned that lesson the hard way. I could write a 5 part guest blog about all I went through (and am still going through) with this little gun, but it would bore everyone to tears, because it would only prove what B.B. has said many times in this blog. Anyway, to your comment, I started looking for the golden pellet right away, but could not get decent groups. Then I researched the blog and decided a cleaning with JB Bore paste was in order, which worked wonders. Then I got a peep sight and thought I was onto something, but eventually the groups became very erratic and I discovered that the internal workings holding the aperature in place were coming loose, so all my testing became suspect. I got a new peep sight and then realized I was beyond the limits of its windage adjustment. I switched it out with a second peep sight the I had purchased for the R9, and this one has about 2 clicks of extra adjustment on it. I also decided a bit of TIAT was in order to quiet the shot cycle, and then I applied locktite to all the stock screws. I finally can hit decent groups again. The trigger is a whole other saga! My pellet collection is now at about 20 varieties! I guess I will have to test them all again. But that means more shooting, so that’s OK with me. :o)

      • Roamin
        Like others are saying. Hw30

        And don’t even ask me about the TR5. The next thing you know Fish will chiming in and I’ll be seeing purple. (You would of had to read some of me and Fish’s comments a while back to know I’m talking about).

        But definitely get a 30. You won’t go wrong with that choice.

        • You guys are killing me. You know you just can’t buy one for three kids to share, right? LoL. And RR suggested above that I shop around for a used R7/HW30 and then cut the stock down.

          I think I could handle cutting a piece off the end of a 2×4, but keep me and sharp objects away from a stock. The results would be criminal. I may have to expand to co2 offerings in my search for something to use for training my kids and that they could pass down to their kids. That or a classic multi pump. Or, maybe I try again with another Embark.

          I will go and search for that exchange between you and Fish on the TR5, might be interesting.

          • Roamin Greco,
            If you go the CO2 route, I can tell you that the Sheridan 2260 MB and the Beeman (I think) QB78 have both provided a lot of fun with my grandson and me. The 2260 cost a little more but uses just 1 CO2 cartridge and the QB78 costs less but uses 2 cartridges but cheaper .177 pellets. Both will easily take out empty 20 gauge shells at 25 yards. Being bolt action single shots they give the opportunity for safe training, if that’s something you’re looking for, as well as a slow rate of fire that keeps cost down and focus on the elements of good shooting up.

        • GunFun1, I can’t seem to find your exchange with Fish, the search only pulls up B.B.’s series on the TR5 and I did a “find” on each page for “Fish” and got no hits. Too bad the search function does not seem to search the comments, because that is where a lot of the gold nuggets in this blog are found. : (

    • Roamin Greco,

      Just a thought or two. Have you inserted a dowel rod into the bore and tried to center the barrel? Is there a screw that holds the front sight tunnel that is perhaps too long? Can you rotate the barrel insert?


      • Shootski, thanks very much for you response, but I don’t understand your suggestion. You mean to insert a thin wooden dowel, and then how do I “center the barrel”? By bending the barrel using the dowel as a reference?

        As far as the front sight, in response to a prior suggestion in another post, the front sight appeared to be slightly canted, so I loosened the set screw on the front sight and heated up the plastic front sight with a hair drier. I was then able to barely turn the front sight a few degrees, but then the sight appeared so obviously canted the other way that I couldn’t really shoot it. So I heated her back up and tried to put the sight back to vertical. In tightening the set screw, I stripped out the plastic screw hole of the sight, but since cooling off, I have not detected any movement of the front sight. So the screw is not a factor in the image of the muzzle.

        I am assuming that the molded plastic front sight is concentric, and with the clear evidence from the breech, that is why I am concluding that the bore is misaligned with the barrel. I have never seen this on any other gun, airgun or firearm to this extent.

        • Roamin Greco,

          I’m just going by what I see in the photographs. It looks like a liner barrel inside of a tube. It reminded me of the “Soda Straw” barrels in some Crosman guns. Some of them were held centered in the outer tube by end caps and O-rings and receiver slots. I just cant tell why the bore would be so off center!
          Is the barrel really a solid tube?


      • shootski,

        I think Roamin means that his barrel was drilled off-center. It’s common and can’t easily be corrected. Yes, that barrel is a solid tube.


        • B.B.,

          Thank you.
          WOW! is all i can say about the QC on this one!
          I should hope R.G. would be able to get it replaced regardless of time or his actions trying to fix the obvious manufacturing defect…even if they just charge it off to Customer Relations!

          my 2 cents,


  5. BB,

    I have heard a lot of very good things about this air rifle, mostly in .22 though. I hope it does well in quarter inch. I am curious to see how far it will stretch out. I do hope it is an interesting air rifle.

  6. BB,

    Nice to see more PCPs being offered.

    I like that the Gaunlet 2 has a 4500 psi fill and is regulated. Basically, you can fill to whatever level (above the regulator set-point) you can and be shooting. Yeah, 4500 psi gives the maximum shot count but lower fills work. Might be good to simulate a fill from a regular SCUBA tank (3200 psi ??) that people often use and see what the shot count is.

    One thing that really surprises me is the lack of (convenient) tuning on most PCPs. Even high-end rifles from Daystate and Rapid Air Weapons need to be disassembled to get at the regulator. With external adjustments you can easily tune the airgun to the pellet rather than need to go searching of a comparable pellet. Guess I’m spoiled by my Impact and Crown.

    Agree, .22 is my favorite caliber as well. With 25 grain Monster Redesigns the .22 will give a .25 caliber rifle a real challenge in power, range and accuracy and still have higher shot counts and cheaper ammunition as an option. IMHO, (considering a 1 inch maximum effective range – MER), the .25 doesn’t buy much of an advantage unless extreme range is a requirement.


    • Hank,

      I like your idea of using a scuba tank fill as a shot count test. But 3200 psi? That would be a 100 cubic-inch steel tank. An 80 cubic-inch aluminum tank tops out at 3000 psi and the dive shops I have gone to are pretty strict on stopping there. One I went to put the tank in a tub of water to lessen the heat of compression and a couple others would wait 10 minutes to top off a second time, but they all stopped at 3000.

      I like it! 🙂


      • BB,

        If you decide to do a shot count from 3000 down to the point where your gun is off the reg, is there any chance you’d be willing to do a pump count/effort assessment getting it back to 3000 with a hand pump? It seems to me that, in this day and age, a 3000 psi limit would be employed more often by hand pumpers than scuba tank owners, since many, if not most, tank users have probably traded up to SCBA to get the added capacity and weight reduction that it offers, even if the higher pressure isn’t necessarily supported on the guns they shoot. I think, and since I’m not the guy doing the pumping, it’s easy for me to suggest, that this would be informative because the bottle volume is greater than one might usually find on a rifle in this price range. If you don’t want to do it, I understand that completely. I have an electric, 4500 psi, SCBA tank filling, pump because I think hand pumping is no bueno, but some of the unwashed masses have to do it and that’s why I suggested test..


  7. BB,

    How is the handling? Does that long cylinder make the Gauntlet 2 much more muzzle heavy than the original?

    Otherwise it looks like a big improvement on its predecessor. But it still can’t compete with the Air Venturi Avenger, methinks.

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