Dragonfly Mk2
Dragonfly Mark 2.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5
Part 6
Part 7

This report covers:

  • Why Monday and not last Friday?
  • Sad thing
  • Trigger is simple
  • Take pictures!
  • Inletting is tight!
  • The metal piece
  • Stake those pins
  • Test it
  • Fixed
  • Why no instructions in the manual?
  • Proof of the pudding…
  • JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy
  • Summary

Well, the Dragonfly Mark 2 trigger is fixed. I have a lot to tell you about today, so let’s get started.

Why Monday and not last Friday?

Why did I wait until today to tell you about it? Well, experience, mostly. You see if I tear into an airgun and discover that I can’t finish it in time to write the report, I have wasted all that time and still have to do something I can write about. I had no idea what was wrong with this trigger and I didn’t want to find out after it was too late. So I schedule things like this for a time when I have a couple days, in case the worst happens. If my Saturday is open then Friday is a great time for something like this.

As things turned out the worst did not happen, but I still spent a lot more time on this trigger fix than I wanted to. I’m going to warn you now — this is not a trigger to take apart, or even an airgun to take out of the stock.

Sad thing

Now the sad thing is — the guys who really shouldn’t take this rifle apart are the same ones who don’t listen. They will tear into it and then whine and cry when they discover that they can’t get it back together. The guys who know their limits will never attempt something like this — especially when I warn them.

Trigger is simple

Ironically, taking the rifle out of the stock and working on the trigger of the Dragonfly Mark 2 is not difficult. It’s really simple, but it’s also confusing. This action is not held in the stock in a conventional way. In fact, Tyler Patner tells me that this is the same trigger as is found in the Gen 1 Stormrider, which means the disassembly is probably also the same. I will show you the steps I took and what I found. But that doesn’t mean you should do it.

What I’m saying is if your Dragonfly Mark 2 trigger is working, leave the action in the stock. And of course the guys who won’t listen are the same ones who will get in trouble.

Take pictures!

Taking pictures as you disassemble the rifle is something that’s been preached for years, but on this job it really saved the day! Let’s go.

The first picture looks simple, but in the end it saved the day. The stock screws have heads that are shaped differently and that helped me get them back into the right holes during assembly.  It seems simple but it really did help.

Dragonfly stock screws
The rear buttstock is held on by these two screws.

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Inletting is tight!

The stock is really inlet well. But the triggerguard came out with one screw and  That exposed the trigger mechanism. When the other one came out the stock could be separated from the action. 

Dragonfly trigger exposed
This is another picture that saved the day. It shows how a small steel piece you are going to see attaches to the rifle. And once more, the shape of the screw head was important.

Dragonfly trigger side
Here is a telling picture. Those three pins (arrows) were all loose in their holes.

I found that all three trigger pins were loose in their holes. One of them was actually not in the right side of the trigger box.

Dragonfly trigger pin out
The pin on which the trigger turns (purple arrow) was out on the left side. This is another picture that saved the day. See the screw inside the metal piece (yellow arrow). That was the key to assembling the rifle.

Dragonfly trigger exposed pin missing
Looking at the other side of the trigger box we see that the trigger pin isn’t even in its hole. And look — the other two pins are sitting loose in their holes, too.

The metal piece

Okay, here is the reason why I say the Dragonfly Mark 2 is not straightforward, as far as disassembly goes. The buttstock is held onto the action by a small metal piece that’s attached to the receiver with a single screw. Look at the trigger that’s exposed but still inside the stock (the second new pic) and you can see the back half of this piece at the front of the trigger guard slot. And there is that pesky screw that holds this piece to the action — at the front of the trigger guard slot.

To remove the buttstock at this point, unscrew the single screw that attaches the buttstock to the rifle. It’s the rounded-head Allen screw in the first new picture — the one on the left.

Now that is straightforward, but what you then realize is that screw does not attach to the receiver or the air tube . It attaches to that small metal piece I have been talking about. Here — let’s look.

Dragonfly metal piece
There is the metal piece that the smaller screw on the left attaches to the pump tube. This piece receives the stock screw in the threaded hole on the right. When it’s attached to the rifle that threaded hole it in front and the other two holes are at the rear.

Stake those pins

At this point in the process I thought I had found the problem — those three loose trigger pins. So I staked them on both sides. Staking refers to displacing metal with a sharp prick punch. It moves the metal slightly and, if done close to a pin hole, the hole becomes smaller. I did it at a minimum of three places around each pin hole on both sides of the trigger box. Three pins means six holes to stake, so 18 stake punches in all. I had to re-stake a couple times on some holes because I hit the stake pin too lightly. Let’s look.

Dragonfly pins staked
I staked all three trigger pins on both sides of the trigger box. I hit the stake punch more times than three on some of the holes.

Test it

The result of staking was the pins were in the holes tight. They required a pin punch to come out, which is the way it should be.

With the stock off I could still cock the hammer, pump the rifle and test the trigger. So I did. Nothing! I was exasperated so I called Tyler Patner of Pyramyd Air and asked him what the problem could be. He wasn’t sure but asked me to send him all the pictures I had taken, and I said I would. I started to go back to my office to do that and then I thought of one thing I hadn’t done yet. I pulled the trigger and watched it move the front of the sear up, which causes the rear to go down and release the hammer. The sear was moving but not far enough to release the hammer. So I took a pin punch and pushed on the front of it a little more and the rifle fired. I did it again. And again.

Then I called Tyler back and told him what I had done. He asked me to film it and I did.

Then he called me back and said he thought he knew what the problem was. He said there is a tiny screw in the short leg on the base of the trigger that presses up (or down, depending on how the action is oriented) on the sear. That screw might need to come out just a little to push the sear up (or down) a little farther. To get to that screw the trigger blade has to come out of the trigger box assembly. I had him wait while I pushed out the pin and removed the blade. I could see the screw he mentioned. It is wee-teeny — a  0.050-inch Allen screw. 

I found a wrench and adjusted the screw out about a turn and one-half. The I applied blue thread blocker to the screw and threads of the hole so it would stay where I put it.

Dragonfly trigger adjustment screw
The sear engagement trigger adjustment screw is very small (a 0.050-inch). This is after I turned it out. It was almost flush before.


At this point I thought the problem was fixed, so I assembled the rifle to test it.

Dragonfly metal piece
Don’t forget that metal piece that’s the key to assembling the stock to the pump tube.

The trigger now fired the rifle every time. So I assembled the buttstock and checked it many times. It worked every time. However, what I now have is a long single-stage trigger pull with no definite stop point. I will have to get used to the trigger again.

Why no instructions in the manual?

I hope today’s report explains why Air Venturi doesn’t want people taking the rifle apart to adjust the trigger. Yes, it is adjustable but it’s not a job that many people will be able to do without making mistakes. The Dragonfly Mark 2 does come apart rather simply, but you have to know what you are doing. If my words have helped, then perhaps you can do it.  But if it seems daunting, leave it alone unless absolutely necessary. Taking the rifle apart like this may void your warrantee.

Proof of the pudding…

… is in the eating. Does the Dragonfly still shoot well after this work? Only one way to find out.

JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy

I shot the rifle from 10 meters with the most accurate pellet — the JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy. This isn’t an accuracy test, per se. It’s a test to see if the way the trigger now functions allows me to still be accurate. And it’s a test to see if disassembling from the buttstock has shifted the point of impact.

I shot 5 shots off a sandbag rest at 10 meters. I pumped the rifle 4 times for each shot. The rifle did need to be sighted in again. The first round hit 2-1/2-inches to the left and 2-1/4-inches low. I played with the dot sight to bring the pellets back close to the center of the bull. Then I was ready to shoot for record.                         

I put five shots into 0.353-inches at 10 meters. Not my best, for sure, but I had 20 ounces of coffee while writing the first part of this report before shooting. I’m the first to argue that caffeine doesn’t disrupt my nerves, but I would never drink it before a match. So I was off my game a little today and the Dragonfly Mark 2 works fine.

Dragonfly JSB Jumbo Heavy group
Five JSB Exact Jumbo Heavy pellets made a 0.353-inch group at 10 meters.


The Dragonfly Mark 2 is back on track and we are headed for the first 25-yard accuracy test next.