I’m testing SLIP 2000 EWL 30 Heavy Duty Weapons Lubricant.
This report covers:
- What it is
- Lightbulb!
- Clean and lube
- Two different products
- How to test?
- More?
- Warning
- Other products
- Summary
Today’s report is one that will probably have a part two but at present I don’t know what it is. Readers please tell me if you can think of one.
In the past I have reported on several lubricants, including Moly grease and Tune in a Tube (TIAT). No doubt I have mentioned many more lubes in my reports, though I don’t think I have done entire reports on them. Today I will report on a lubricant that has been in my possession for several years, and I just recently found out how beneficial it is — SLIP 2000. Today’s report is specifically about SLIP 2000 EWL 30 — a similar product from the same company, and I will explain the difference in a moment.
What it is
SLIP 2000 EWL 30 is a synthetic lubricant made for use in extreme conditions — things like chain guns and automatic weapons. A chain gun is a large-caliber weapon that uses a motor to power a chain to make the gun fire faster than straight blowback permits.
In Germany my scout platoon had 20mm chain-gun cannons mounted on their M114 tracked scout vehicles. That gave them far greater firepower than the M2 .50 caliber Browning machine guns they replaced. But the scouts had difficulty keeping those cannons operational. They had to oil them constantly. SLIP 2000 EWL 30 was created for applications like that. And we airgunners may have uses for it as well. That’s the point of this report.
Several years ago I got a sample bottle of SLIP 2000 from the manufacturer, Superior Products Sales, at the SHOT Show. I never tested it because I couldn’t see a reason to. I had all the lubricants I needed for airguns — or so I thought. That may have changed.
Lightbulb!
A couple weeks ago I was invited to John McCaslin’s house for Thanksgiving dinner and also to shoot. John has a shooting range in his man cave and the trap we shoot into is four FEET thick of rubber armor! We shoot firearms into it safely. I took several firearms along, including a CZ 75 SP-01 9mm pistol.
The only other time I had shot this pistol was in John’s man cave several years ago. I even reported on it in this blog, though the title of the report slips my mind. As best I can remember there were feeding issues with this pistol that we thought might be caused by “limp-wristing” it. Ian’s mention of that phenomenon in his report on the sub-$200 Glock 19 clone reminded me of that.
Clean and lube
I have wanted to shoot the CZ 75 pistol for years but it always seemed so new and stiff that I never took it to the range — too much potential time wasted. But I saw the sample of SLIP 2000 sitting on my workbench and wondered whether this event was the opportunity I had waited for. And was this lubricant really as good as the claims?
I field-stripped the pistol and cleaned off all previous lubricants, then applied SLIP 2000 to the same places where oil would have been used. Right away I could tell something was different. The slide of the all-steel pistol now retracted more easily. The gun was still very tight though and I wondered if this stuff would really work.
Well — it did! After lubing with SLIP 2000, this pistol went from being a safe queen to one of my favorite 9mm pistols, as the accuracy is utterly phenomenal! And it is now perfectly reliable. After shooting it this time I field-stripped it again and saw that the lube is still in place, just as their ads promised.
SLIP 2000 made the tight CZ 75 SP-01 function reliably!
Based on what I saw I bought a 4 ounce/118 ml bottle of SLIP 2000 EWL 30, and let me tell you — it ain’t cheap! I paid $25 for this small bottle. I will say that you don’t need much to do a job and this bottle with probably last the rest of my lifetime, so it’s an investment rather than an expense. A one-ounce bottle that sells for $15 is probably all anyone needs.
Several different products
There are several products with similar names so don’t get confused. There is SLIP 2000, SLIP 2000 EWL and SLIP 2000 EWL 30. The 30 is a more viscous product the manufacturer says will not migrate (move when the parts it’s applied to move). I bought it by mistake, but SLIP 2000 EWL 30 is what I now have and what I will test.
I lubed the CZ 75 with SLIP 2000, and that is probably the stuff I should have bought. However I must observe that SLIP 2000 EWL 30 is also extremely slippery. I got some on my hands while writing this report and it took minutes to rub off and even then I could feel something remained on my skin. Eight hours later my fingers are still slippery! They claim it penetrates the surface of the steel parts and bonds to them.
How to test?
This is where you readers come in, because I can’t think of any airguns that need a super lube like this. Anything I have that needs a super-slick lube probably already has a coat of Moly grease on it. But there must be something we can lube and test. Please help me find it.
One idea I have is to pull out a Sharpshooter rubber band catapult gun and see if lubing the rails with SLIP 2000 EWL 30 increases velocity. Those little pistols shoot a number 6 lead shotgun birdshot, and it’s not easy to chronograph. They also shoot VERY slow, around 60 f.p.s. Anything that would increase the velocity by even a little would be a real blessing!
In 2018 I lubed the rails of one Sharpshooter with moly powder and the velocity almost doubled — from 60 to 112 f.p.s. Would SLIP 2000 EWL 30 have any effect on an unlubed one? I may have to test penetration rather than velocity because, as I said, those individual number six shot at less than 0.12-inches/3.048mm diameter are very difficult to chronograph.
Sharpshooter rubber-band powered pistol.
Another possibility that comes to mind is lubing the coiled steel mainspring of an airgun. If SLIP 2000 EWL 30 really doesn’t migrate as they say, could it be a great new lube for springers? I don’t know and only time and testing will tell. Remember the small springer rifles I wrote about? Hmmmm.
More?
Ian McKee has convinced/enabled me to acquire a Glock 19 clone for myself. It will be a truck gun — or at least that’s what I’m telling myself to justify the purchase. After all — a 9mm pistol for under $200? What’s not to like? And I don’t want to carry that beautiful CZ 75 around in my truck all the time.
I have never liked Glock triggers. Would SLIP 2000 EWL 30 improve them? I have a Glock 36 that my wife used to carry. That one is a real Glock, so it’s a great place to start. It’s very hard to rack and has a typical Glock trigger. My plan is to give it the same treatment I gave to the CZ 75. If it works I’ll do the same to the Glock 19 clone, once all the parts arrive. But a firearm is not an airgun.
Guys, where can I best test this stuff on airguns? Because I know for a fact that it does work. If I had a low-velocity airgun to test it on that would be great. Or what could it do to an airgun that’s stiff and hard to operate? But I can’t think of any. Can you help?
Warning
The SLIP 2000 website says this product is safe to use, non-toxic, non-regulated, biodegradeable and non-hazardous, but the bottle has a warning from the state of California that says it contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and reproductive harm — www.P65warning.ca.gov. I intend using it without fear, but the warning is on the bottle, just so you know.
Other products
Superior Products Sales has a host of other products for sale. One is labeled Airgun Lubricant. Their description for that one says it’s safe for metal, plastic and rubber parts. They say it reduces dieseling and can be used in the bore to increase velocity. I’ve already been a scoffer about SLIP 2000, so I’m keeping my mind open about these claims.
Summary
Today we have looked at a novel synthetic lubricant that possibly has applications in the airgun world. It definitely works on firearms!
“The slide of the all-steel pistol now retracted more easily.”
OK, BB; you had me right there; I need to get some and try it on my all-steel pistols! 😉
Blessings to you,
dave
Tom:
I typed it into the SEARCH box and came up with a reference back to the blog.
Is this product going to be offered by PA or do I need to look elsewhere? And where?
Thx,
Lance
Lance,
I logged into my Amazon account, and did a search on:
“SLIP 2000 EWL 30 Heavy Duty Weapons Lubricant”
…and a 4-ounce bottle popped up right here:
https://www.amazon.com/Slip2000-60351-Slip-2000-EWL30/dp/B0064V8J8E/ref=sr_1_4
…I’ve got it on order, and it should be here tomorrow…yay! 😉
Blessings to you,
dave
Davemyster: Thanks for the heads-up, I have followed your lead. My order was initiated today out in California. I’m thinking that this might just be “the thing” for my newer Norica Dragon in .25 that started with a “crunchy-sounding” cocking cycle. That means that the mainspring is not liking its cylinder. The RWS Spring oil isn’t QUITE viscous enough to help it slither in the tube.
We’ll know if the effective 30 wt. will calm that mainspring and, perhaps, help it speed its expansion significantly in the cylinder. I don’t think it can hurt anything in the spring-side of the break barrel.
Who knows? Maybe this might be the stuff for the Octoberfest rifle that seems an impossible thing to lubricate in terms of the air chamber? That’s the one long arm I have that completely buried the spring in the stock and chassis. I’m not equipped nor knowledgeable enough to risk a disassembly – as Clint Eastwood said in a flick: “A man’s gotta know his limitations.” I be limited, but, of course MANLY! LOL Maybe I can find a way to sneak some lube in it?????
“A man’s gotta know his limitations.”
Lance,
I love that quote! I believe it was from the Dirty Harry movie Magnum Force…great stuff!
I hope this SLIP2000 EWL30 works on both of our sets of guns. 😉
Blessing to you,
dave
I received the SLIP2000EWL30 and will be applying it tomorrow after a video appointment with one of my doctors. I’m going to start with my newer Norica .25 cal. Dragon rifle, a “crunchy” springer. It’s been improved with RWS Spring Chamber oil, but I figure that the more viscous WL 30 will quiet it more perfectly and likely remove any catch and cant that might try and occur?
As a springer enthusiast, this heavier and stay-put lubricant might just be perfect for my historic and committed shooting? We will certainly see what’s what in the weeks ahead. If I find it works, particularly in my Dragon and Beeman P-1 pistol, I may have a new permanent addition to the arms locker. Less messy than trying to get white lithium grease in the Beeman, for sure.
More to come. Let’s hope there’s a new perpetual denizen for the arms locker, the tools and parts side of the cabinet?
I’m interested in your results, but if I were you, I would have used Tune In A Tube (TIAT) on a conventional coil springer. However, one can easily put too much. So it would be interesting to know if the EWL30 is a good alternative.
Roamin:
Yes, I’ll be posting in the next couple of days. The TIAT would be hard for me to get into a couple of my springers. I am hoping that the needle will make getting to the far side of the spring chambers possible. Although the ELW 30 is not reputed to migrate, it will be pushed by the coils along the length of the tube, eventually. I have ONE piece, a cheaper Norica .25 Dragon I purchased to use up some .25 H&Ns that are correct diameter for a Hatsan OVERSIZED bore. Somethings, one finds out about the hard way when buying a new piece. Dang it! The Dragon was “crunchy” for start up, and I want to have an heavier lube than the RWS/Diana blue spring lube. The ELW30, from what I have read of it from the manufacturer would seem to be the idea stuff for this application. As an irrelevant point, I’ve used white Lithium on my Beeman P-1 pistol for more than a decade to deal with the cocking arm friction and the expansion of the main spring – BUT, I can get to them easily (its got a DOUBLE cocking slot to care for). The Norica is a harder thing to get to without a long needle applicator. We’ll see and I’ll be posting results!
Cool. I can’t wait.
Roamin: Something weird is going on with either my lap top or the Blog Page. It’s tripled an entry and refused to post the one I just wrote….
So…here’s the last try for today….again!
I did the arms locker with the 1 Oz bottle and the stainless steel needle to all the long arms and the useable short arms. Most, I could access the coils of the main spring in part or whole with enough drops that, hopefully, use will spread the synthetic 30 wt. lube between spring and metallic tube. We shall see. I did all the joints and linkages as can be accessed, including the main barrel hinge. It seemed to smooth things out, but it’s actually a difficult discernment as these are all smooth.
The ELW 30, is, of course a 30 wt. equivalent of motor oil so it pushes hard through the stainless needle applicator. I have a cut forefinger that reminded me of this with each squeeze. That tells me that the viscosity is likely EXACTLY what the manufacturer claimed – which is good for a powerful violently expanding main spring on a break barrel pistol or long arm.
I avoided ALL trigger parts today and will likely continue so to do.
The idea of a pass through a CLEANED barrel does intrigue but maybe at some other time; my barrel care routine to date leaves them quite consistent and as a 10 meter indoor shooter I don’t need battleship range. Well, unless the drones begin appearing over Sandusky for some demented reason by some wack-a-doodle in the community? (Likely would be out over Cedar Point Amusement Park spying on a new ride or something rather than a suburban lot?).
In a few necessary fired shots aimed grossly into the Champion trap, to unburden the mainspring, I already sense some possible initial help to the shot cycle, but it’s REALLY too little to tell. January, February and early March, before the cycling season of maintenance and riding starts will tell.
I’ll drop some verbiage on the Blog as it becomes available. I do suspect that the ELW30 stuff may be a lube to keep in the maintenance shelving of the arms locker; the thickness but motility of the product suggests it does what the maker claims. Note, its “motility” not “migration.” I think it can be moved about as a lubricant, but its thickness doesn’t suggest a wide “crawl” into places, but we’ll get a feel for that with time. Remember, its cool in the basement range and that would negatively affect lubricant migration….
Wonder if it would work on pumper pistons?
OP,
What do you mean by “work?” Make the gun easier to pump? Make it more powerful?
BB
BB,
Of course OP can speak for himself, but on the same topic I wonder if the Slick product would reside longer and allow for more pumping between lubes?
It might be good for spring pistons in springers and in pumpers that have a spring-driven hammer? Triggers too…
Will
Make it easier to pump, especially the last 2-3 pumps where it’s more effort for relatively little more fps.
Somehow, I doubt if the gain would be at all significant, maybe a miniscule amount of lube to the parachute seal, but the resistance is the climb in the air pressure to further fill the pressure chamber. That chamber is connected to the pumping cylinder and resists it with increasing forces as the pressure in it rises. It’s essentially a problem of pneumatic cylinders, you’re on the wrong side of the process! You are the engine BUILDING the pressure.
A quick follow up to date:
The initial application of the EWL 30 is showing REAL promise in the Norica Dragon! The “crunchies” have disappeared entirely. The shot cycle seems to be really smoothed out; the superior lubrication wt. and chemical composition seems to be doing its intended purpose!
I am, at this initial stage, VERY PLEASED, with the product. It is only a few DROPS and the .25 Cal rifle is acting magnitudes smoother. Now, it is EARLY in the process, but I suspect it will improve more with a few hundred pellets and a repeat application or two to truly smear the film throughout the spring tube.
I think this stuff is just the ticket for what has ailed the rifle to date – and that’s not been a long process – to be completely truthful. I’m at the beginning of my relationship with this lower powered Spanish arm.
Once assured of its quality, I think it will obtain a “basement visa” to visit a certain Turkish .25 caliber arm in its neighborhood. These big springers share the need for big lubricant, I suspect. Then, if it proves efficacious, it will likely dribble down to the “lesser” citizens of the shooting community – in .22 and .177.
I think that this product may be just right for my fleet of break-barrel springers (other than the gas ram Luxus). We’ll see!
Tom since you mentioned mostly pistols you should first try it on Edith’s Glock. Then an HW45 maybe?
About that truck gun, why not using the CZ? Beauty is not to be kept in a closet. It’s better to have the queen around for protection and some occasional joy at the range.
Bill,
Aww — stop spoiling my fun! 😉
BB
B.B.,
The Pistol Wizard agrees with you…sort of.
You may want to compare it to the Lubriplate SFL-0-0https://pistolwizard.com/guides/maintenance#:~:text=Lubriplate SFL-0 is the,it’s perfect for guns%2C too.
shootski
Tom,
Maybe it would be advantageous to use on the rail system of the FWB300? I don’t think it will be good for the mainspring. What is needed there is a vibration damper like TIAT not a lubricant like Slip 2000. Heavy single stage triggers might be a good place to try this out.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
I need to think about it — a LOT!
BB
May help with all linkage pivot and hinge points on pumpers, underlevers and break barrels. Especially magnums.
The clutch lever / cable on a Harley!
Sounds like I might have to try this on my new Norica Dragon in .25 that I purchased to have a cheap .25 to shoot up a stock of .25 H&N Pellets that are not fitting the OVERSIZED bore of the Hatsan 135 for which they were bought. Low and behold, the Turkish piece, though handsome in every way, has a distended bore problem. So, the Norica, but it needs a better mainspring lube. I’ve dripped some RWS Spring Piston (blue) lube in the push rod slot, but this sounds like a better product for the purpose.
Would it gradually replace the existing lubricant and improve the Dragon by decreasing the sliding friction of the mainspring that must have already developed a bit of a cant.
If it would, I think I’d pony up and try some. Thanks for the article.
I ordered some of the SLIP2000 ELW 30 today direct from the manufacturer.
Got a 4 Oz and 1 Oz with needle package with free shipping for $34. Not a horrible loss if it fails.
I have a Noria .25 Dragon which shoots smoothly but there is a discernable rub in cocking, and if this lube works, it may be just the ticket for the cheap air arm made by reputed very good Spanish gunsmiths. We’ll see.
Supposedly it bonds with the metal surfaces it is on and markedly reduces sliding friction with is sure what an exceedingly rapidly expanding coil spring in a semi-enclosed cylinder is. With the Dragon, from the start, I’ve noted a “crunchiness” in cocking, so it’s likely that there’s a lot of metal-on-metal friction that needs to be put down and out. The RWS Spring Chamber oil (the blue stuff not the clear – that’s the Air Chamber high flash point stuff) isn’t heavy enough to deal with the problem. We’ll see how the replacement works.
Might take the Dragon out to the garage and the air compressor for a little “dry cleaning of the spring chamber with the pointed nozzle before the next round of slickery-stuff. I’ll try and remember to write a small follow-up piece about my experiences. Never hurts to help some other shooter who just might have a Dragon with a grouchy tummy?
BB, perhaps we need to think of things NOT to use it on.
Do o-rings like SLIP 2000 lubes?
Is it also slick on plastic, like the stock? Too slick?
It claims high heat tolerance. Does it smoke or diesel in a springer?
Will it blow up in high pressure air?
Here is the Safety Data Sheet:
https://feeds.brownells.com/userdocs/MSDS/100-003-451_SLIP%202000%20EXTREME%20WEAPONS%20LUBRICANT,%204OZ.%20-%2003M_default.pdf
The flash point and autoignition temperatures compare favorably with what I could find for pure silicone oils:
https://www.sigmaaldrich.com/US/en/sds/aldrich/378364?userType=undefined
(Note to self: some silicone lubes contain petroleum distillate carrier and are more flammable.)
They also state the LD50s; not too bad but I wouldn’t eat either SLIP or silicone. And:
https://slip2000.com/blogs/news/why-is-there-a-prop-65-warning
I notice my unleaded pellet tins often have a California Prop65 warning, usually phrased as “may” contain chemicals that cause cancer.
A quick glance at the Prop65 chemical list leaves me puzzled as to why the SLIP product carries the warning. I don’t see the SLIP ingredients hydrocarbons or calcium soap listed, so maybe it really is just some blanket Amazon requirement. Prop65 was implemented just about when I moved to California. It may have started out as a reasonable law but has devolved a bit over the years into unhelpful over-labeling and predatory tort:
http://www.tedlawfirm.com/what-amazon-sellers-should-know-about-californias-proposition-65/
Mike
Mike,
Yeah, I wondered about that. Especially when they term lead as a compound or chemical. It’s an element.
BB
Now, Tom!
Speaking as a retired civil servant of the Ohio Veterans Home, a Certified Social Worker II, BTW, you mean that one HAS TO be devoted to reality and the truth? What? And be scientifically as accurate as possible? WTF! That would mean acting as a mentally stable hooomin?
Lead is an element. My late father was a ceramic engineer and worked, in his last employ as the chief engineer for Homer Laughlin China Company (maker of Fiesta Ware, et. al.). He had to remove ALL the lead from HLC products in the early 70s (i.e. the glazes), to comply with EPA and reasonable medical guidelines. No problem for him and there is no lead, that I’m aware of, in HLC new products.
Of course, dad, as a degreed ceramics engineer, knew what an element was and used decades of scientific knowledge to address and solve a problem. He also had the dogged determined focus to pursue a problem until it died or surrendered unconditionally.
Fortunately, I inherited a lot of that even though my career was in the clergy and not chemistry. Part of that orientation is why I’ve been dogging the Senior Triggers and You thing in other posts, recently. One needs to drop the feelings and get the facts to get approaches and answers.
Lead is DEFINITELY an element. Because, Watson its “elementary!”
I ordered some of the SLIP2000 ELW 30 today direct from the manufacturer.
Got a 4 Oz and 1 Oz with needle package with free shipping for $34. Not a horrible loss if it fails.
I have a Noria .25 Dragon which shoots smoothly but there is a discernable rub in cocking, and if this lube works, it may be just the ticket for the cheap air arm made by reputed very good Spanish gunsmiths. We’ll see.
Supposedly it bonds with the metal surfaces it is on and markedly reduces sliding friction with is sure what an exceedingly rapidly expanding coil spring in a semi-enclosed cylinder is. With the Dragon, from the start, I’ve noted a “crunchiness” in cocking, so it’s likely that there’s a lot of metal-on-metal friction that needs to be put down and out. The RWS Spring Chamber oil (the blue stuff not the clear – that’s the Air Chamber high flash point stuff) isn’t heavy enough to deal with the problem. We’ll see how the replacement works.
Might take the Dragon out to the garage and the air compressor for a little “dry cleaning of the spring chamber with the pointed nozzle before the next round of slickery-stuff. I’ll try and remember to write a small follow-up piece about my experiences. Never hurts to help some other shooter who just might have a Dragon with a grouchy tummy?
BB,
What would an airgunner use this stuff for? I am not sure. For the piston seal? Maybe a little dab would work. With leather seals it might work wonders. It should work pretty good on the bronze seals used in FWB 300s and the Webley Service MKII air rifle I have. That thing is a real smoker that I have never been able to cure.
I am afraid I would have to agree with Siraniko that this stuff does not have any dampening qualities such as TIAT (of which I have a lifetime plus supply), but it might be of help on springs in sproingers that do not have a vibration. Any sliding of metal on metal is detrimental to whatever.
This stuff may be helpful with some triggers. I have met some that were so bad that even moly was of no help. It may even work some with bolts and side levers. The friction in these can add to the force that is needed to overcome the hammer springs. It worked with your CZ. Maybe it will help some of these.
Will any of this be found at RRHFWA? Not likely unless somebody happens to send me some. I still have a small container of Renaissance Wax I have yet to open and try. I am not saying this stuff is not the greatest lubricant to come along in centuries. What I am saying is I do not see me messing with it, although it would be nice to try some on that bronze seal. I guess I just have to wait and see if it will work in my particular application.
I remember reading about a Marauder that someone tuned for you. They managed to reduce the cocking effort substantially. It wasn’t explained how this was done. Would some of this lube in the cocking mechanism help to reduce the amount of effort required to cock a Marauder?
Elmer,
I doin’t know but that’s the sort of thing I’m looking for.
BB
B.B.
I wonder how it would perform in a “harsh marine environment”?
-Yogi
Ypgi,
What do you have in mind? The bottom of a fish tank or the enlisted man’s bar on payday?
BB
No, lubing a fire arm while sailing the seven seas….
How about using it for lubing pellets and/or coating the inside of the barrel with it?
-Yogi
Yogi,
Lubing pellets and on coating the inside of the barrel. Now that one has merit. I assume we are looking for a velocity increase? That’s good because their Airgun Lubricant says it does that. That one’s in the book.
BB
Tom,
I second coating the inside of the barrel with this lubricant. Maybe it will allow the hard antimony pellets to be more accurate in subsequent tests. Come to think of it is there may actually be some merit to lubricating barrels for use with hard lead pellets.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Okay — that’s one for accuracy. We shall see.
B B
FM’s boating friends swear by a product known as TefGel to keep nuts and bolts from rusting and seizing in marine environments. No idea if this product is suitable for our airgun applications though did use it in lieu of Loctite in one of the HW’s to help keep the stock screws from loosening up and it seems to be working. It is very sticky.
Now _that’s_ funny!
Revisit the HW50S. Maybe use this on the articulated cocking link, rivet and cocking shoe that have a reputation for galling or stiffness.
jumpin,
OK.
BB
Will it swell a leather breach seal?
Breeze,
It might, but this stuff doesn’t pour/run. It would have to be applied directly and that means disassembly.
You have started me thinking.
BB
BB
Many good suggestions have been made by readers. I am especially hoping you or someone will test it on lawyered triggers best suitable for squeezing with pliers. You may not have any such airguns still around. The other suggestion I hope you pursue is bore and or pellet lubing for better velocity consistency and higher fpe.
Hey Gunfun1, hope you chime in on this report.
Deck
Never tried SLIP 2000 EWL. Other than trying it on coating slugs can’t think of another airgun use that doesn’t have already tried and true products.
Used to be a fan of Dri-Slide for firearms in certain places but hBN has replaced Dri-Slide for me. MicroLubrol has some amazing products that are slicker/very slippery than anything else I’ve ever used for metal to metal contact
https://www.microlubrol.com/metaltometalcontact.aspx
Magic powders, potions, elixirs and snake-oils 🙂
Seems that I have a fetish for lubricants that’s almost as bad as that I have for adhesives – have a cupboard full of each! LOL!
Thanks BB, I’ll add this one to the list to try. Looking forward to Part 2!
Hank
I think it would be interesting to see how it performs compared to similar lubricants that it replaces. Will it cause dieseling or detonation? Is it safe on rubber or plastic or various o-ring materials? Will it work with leather seals, too? How about wood finishes? Will it prevent rust? How long does it last before needing reapplication? Does it attract dirt and dust? Etc. Etc.
No product will do everything. What are it’s strengths and weaknesses compared to our tried and true products?
I ordered some of the SLIP2000 ELW 30 today direct from the manufacturer.
Got a 4 Oz and 1 Oz with needle package with free shipping for $34. Not a horrible loss if it fails.
I have a Noria .25 Dragon which shoots smoothly but there is a discernable rub in cocking, and if this lube works, it may be just the ticket for the cheap air arm made by reputed very good Spanish gunsmiths. We’ll see.
Supposedly it bonds with the metal surfaces it is on and markedly reduces sliding friction with is sure what an exceedingly rapidly expanding coil spring in a semi-enclosed cylinder is. With the Dragon, from the start, I’ve noted a “crunchiness” in cocking, so it’s likely that there’s a lot of metal-on-metal friction that needs to be put down and out. The RWS Spring Chamber oil (the blue stuff not the clear – that’s the Air Chamber high flash point stuff) isn’t heavy enough to deal with the problem. We’ll see how the replacement works.
Might take the Dragon out to the garage and the air compressor for a little “dry cleaning of the spring chamber with the pointed nozzle before the next round of slickery-stuff. I’ll try and remember to write a small follow-up piece about my experiences. Never hurts to help some other shooter who just might have a Dragon with a grouchy tummy?
LFranke,
This is exactly the kind of info we needed. Now I have another product to recommend when the crunchies happen.
Thanks,
BB
So far, Tom, the Norica is NOTICEABLY improved by the ELW30. The crunchies have disappeared entirely. While the migration of the product is minimized in its info, its motility under the movement of parts seems to be outstanding!
I am contemplating a slow and quite methodical second application with the long needle I have for another product, to make sure that some drops of the SLIPP are on the far side of the mainspring. I suspect it won’t take much as this stuff REALLY lubricates and seems to stay in place as a lubricating film.
I have been lubing my Beeman P-1 Mainspring over the decades with Lithium Grease, which works very well, but is a tad messy. It may be time to figure out a flush, of a sorts, and reapply the SLIPP to that over-lever arm? It can’t help but be the equal or better of the Lithium which service has been excellent.
I think a new and VERY useful product has been added to the hobby/sport of airgunning. Maybe it needs to be added to the inventory of PA for us consumers? I think this is really good stuff!
B.B.,
PCP (Pre Charged Pneumatic), single-multi pump, CO2 hammer/striker lubricant?
shootski
BB, how about using it to lubricate one of those steel ring piston seals some older airguns used?
That would be a high speed steel on steel application.
David Enoch
DavidEnoch,
Got your reply. I’m sure Tom will eventually see it also.
I would think a grease based lubricant would be more appropriate since you don’t normally find pressure oilers on airguns to keep the lubricant coming as the piston ring squeegees it away.
But i’ll defer to B.B. to answer you since he has the stuff.
shootski
David,
Excellent! If this stuff works as advertised we should see a difference.
BB
Tom: I typed in the product under the webpage search and it came to the blog page.
Is PA going to put this on the product pages so it can be ordered, or did I miss something in my search?
I’d like to get a bottle, particularly for the Norica Dragon that seems to need a better lubrication solution to the mainspring through the cocking mechanism slot.
My current medical issues are causing some annoying deficits that I’m hoping pending Gamma Knife “Surgery” (really, Gamma BLASTS to the head) will resolve. This cancer stuff sucks.
Lance
Lance,
The webpage search will look for things ONLY in the blog. To go to where this is sold click on this link.
https://slip2000.com
BB
Tom:
Just placed an order for the SLIP2000ELW30 on their website.
Was cheaper with free shipping from, I presume, the manufactuerer.
I am hoping that it will work well in my new Norica Dragon in .25. I could hear the mainspring scratching in the compression tube – spring side – as I cocked it. Maybe this heavier lube will provide better sliding than the RWS Spring lube (which is quite thin).
I’m not given to taking the pieces apart for greasing them given my limited gun smithing tools and no compression tools at all.
If this works on the Norica, it just might be the thing for the mainspring in your “godson” the “holy one of grail weight” my Beeman P-1 which, of course, is a Weirauch 45 in fancy clothing?
Lance,
Please let us all know if it works.
BB
I shall so do.
L Franke
If one is interested, the “blog” on the Slip 2000 website has several interesting stories and testimonials. Including some remarkable photos. Here’s one entry that really has me wanting to try some of their products.
https://slip2000.com/blogs/news/david-b-smith-from-precision-engineered-performance
Sorry, Ballistol, your days may be numbered….