Beeman P17 valve modification: Part 6

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Today’s report is a guest blog from reader Streetmusician. As far as I can remember he has never signed into the blog under that name, but that is his handle. He tells us how he got more velocity out of his Beeman P17.

If you’d like to write a guest post for this blog, please email me at [email protected].

This report is an important part of the Beeman P17 series, so I am linking it to the other reports we have done on the pistol. The first two parts tell you how to reseal the gun, so if today’s report becomes a project you want to do, you now have the rest of it.

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5 read more

Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle: Part 3

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Gamo 126
Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle.

Part 1
Part 2

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • The test
  • R10 Match Pistol
  • Air Arms Falcons
  • RWS Hobby
  • Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
  • Gamo Match pellets
  • Vogel Match pellet with 4.50mm head
  • Discussion
  • Summary

Today is a day I have waited for for many years. This is the day I discover how accurate the Gamo 126 10-meter target rifle is. Let’s get right to it.

The test

I shot off a sandbag rest from 10 meters. I shot 5 pellets at each target.

R10 Match Pistol

First to be tested and also used for sighting-in was the 7-grain RWS R10 Match Pistol wadcutter. Sight-in took three shots and then came the group. The 126 put five R10 Pistol pellets into 0.314-inches at 10 meters. That’s not a very auspicious start. I expected better from this pellet.

R10 Match Pistol group
Five R10 Match Pistol pellets went into 0.314-inches at 10 meters.

Air Arms Falcons

I often test one or two domed pellets in a target rifle because many readers ask for it. At 7.33 grains the Air Arms Falcon seems like a good choice for my 126 that’s shooting more like a pistol than a rifle. Five of them went into 0.155-inches at 10 meters. Now, the holes left by domed pellets moving at slow speed are hard to measure with accuracy, so this could be off quite a bit, but I was still impressed. It brought out the trime!

Falcon group
The 126 put five Air Arms Falcon pellets in 0.155-inches at 10 meters. That’s not bad!

RWS Hobby

Next up was the venerable RWS Hobby. Hobbys are sometimes quite accurate in lower-powered air rifles, but not in this one. Five made a 0.281-inch group at 10 meters.

Hobby group
Five RWS Hobbys went into 0.281-inches at 10 meters. Another not-so-spectacular pellet!

Sig Match Ballistic Alloy

Next I tried five Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets. These were the fastest in the 126 in the velocity test, and today five of them went into 0.218-inches at 10 meters. That’s pretty good.

Sig Match Alloy group
Five Sig Match Ballistic Alloy pellets went into 0.218-inches at 10 meters.

Gamo Match pellets

I searched though my supply of .177 pellets for

Gamo Match pellets read more

What about dry-firing?

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

This report covers:

  • History
  • Luger
  • Soviet SKS
  • One more common problem
  • Designed to be dry-fired
  • Airguns
  • BB — get real!
  • Sillyiess
  • And the others?
  • Under The Gun
  • An aside that is pertinent
  • Pneumatics and gas guns
  • BB’s rule of thumb
  • Summary

Time for another basic report. We discuss dry-firing airguns a lot and things get out of control pretty quick, but I guess that’s the nature of the Internet. My wife, Edith, used to have a little saying about it. She said people would post:

“I have an HW77 that I enjoy.”

“Yes, Weihrauch airguns all nice, aren’t they?”

“I shoot my Gamo Expomatic in the basement every day.”

“I like ice cream!”

I’ll come back to that, but today I thought I would dive into the subject of dry-firing a little deeper, since it’s one that seems to affect all of us to some extent. I think I’ll start with firearms.


I’m going to begin with guns that have firing pins, though the subject of dry-firing does go back much farther than that. Older guns are usually not made to endure much dry-firing, if any. Their metal parts are hardened to withstand a lot of use without wearing, but hardness does tend to make metal brittle. The better guns have firing pins made from tool steel that can be both hard and also resistant to breakage from impact, but gun makers didn’t always do that because dry-firing was considered a no-no a century ago.


The German Luger, for example, had parts that were heat-treated (hardened) and then tempered (treated with heat for ductility) to a medium straw yellow color. The maker wanted the firing pin to work without wear, and also to not deform the parts with which it interacted. But the metallurgy of Luger parts was less complex 100 years ago than it is today and it is not recommended that you dry-fire a German Luger — especially if it is one from history. It can be done if the gun needs to be uncocked, but you run the risk of breaking the pin and other parts in the firing mechanism.

Legends P08 Erfurt Luger
The Legends P08 pistol with blowback is shown beneath a 1914 Luger made at the Royal Arsenal at Erfurt. This century-old pistol should not be dry-fired.

Soviet SKS

The Soviet semiautomatic rifle we call the SKS is another example of a gun that should not be dry-fired — though not because of the metallurgy.

This Soviet SKS was manufactured at the Tula Arsenal in 1953.

The reason you should not dry-fire an SKS is the tapered firing pin can get stuck inside the bolt in the fired position — protruding from the bolt. If that happens the gun can fire every cartridge it chambers. It’s essentially firing from the open bolt, which it is not timed correctly to do. It will shoot full auto until it runs out of cartridges and the action can blow up if a cartridge case lets go before it is fully chambered and the action is locked shut (that’s the timing). This is a common fault with the SKS and owners are cautioned to keep their bolts and firing pins clean and to not dry-fire their rifle. A firing pin return spring was installed in the earliest SKS bolts and can be retrofitted into guns without it to protect against this.

One more common problem

So, breaking parts and sticking parts are two of the most common reasons why dry-firing firearms is not recommended. And there is one more common reason. Many rimfires are designed so their firing pins will make contact with the edge of the chamber if there is no cartridge rim there to cushion them. This makes them fire more reliably. However, if guns like these are fired a lot with no cartridge in the chamber a groove or depression will form in the rim of the chamber and the gun will no longer fire reliably because there is nothing backing up the cartridge rim. Therefore the cartridge rim will not be crushed reliably to set off the priming compound and the guns either start to misfire a lot or they quit working altogether. It’s a real problem with older rimfires made before about 1960, and even some of the less expensive ones that are made today still have the problem. But many do not.

I’ll use the Ruger 10/22 as an example of a rimfire that can be safely dry-fired. The Ruger website even has a video that says so. And so can the Ruger Mark pistols. Their firing pins are purposely designed to stop a tiny fraction of an inch away from the rim of the chamber. You readers who understand manufacturing know how difficult it is to maintain those kind of dimensions across multiple parts so it always works out right after assembly!

I only use Ruger as an example. Many rimfires are designed this way today. But don’t take my word for it. Find out if YOUR rimfire is so-designed before you start dry-firing!

Designed to be dry-fired

Then there are the firearms that are purposely designed to be dry-fired. I’ll use a free pistol for my example. Because bullseye target shooters shoot many times more shots dry than with ammunition to train their eye-hand coordination, their guns have to be designed for it.

Hammerli 100 right
This Hammerli free pistol is a .22 rimfire pistol used in 50-meter bullseye competition.

The Hammerli 100 was produced from the late 1940s until the middle 1950s, when the model 101 superseded it. It has a lever on the left side of the receiver that cocks the trigger but not the firing pin. It allows you to practice with the trigger all day long without ever chambering a live round or cocking the gun.

Hammerli 100 dry-fire
That lever cocks the trigger of the pistol. It works regardless of the action being cocked.


Let’s now turn our attention to airguns. I will begin with the target guns that have dry-fire devices to allow practice for the same reasons as the free pistols just mentioned. The top 10-meter rifles and pistols all have them, but so do the informal airguns (mostly pistols) that are designed for informal target practice. Take the Beeman P1 for example. If you lift the top strap, but not far enough to cock the pistol, you set the trigger and you can dry-fire it in the same way as a more expensive target pistol. The trigger feels exactly the same as when the pistol is fully cocked, but no pellet is shot when the trigger falls.

BB — get real!

All of that is nice to know, but it doesn’t answer the question that is in your mind, does it? You want to know about spring-piston air rifles, don’t you?


Remember what I told you at the start of this report about conversations on the Internet quickly getting silly? It happens here sometimes, too. I mentioned a few weeks ago that Gamo at one time advertised that their spring-piston air rifles could withstand 10,000 dry-fires without damage and they had even tested for it. Well, that statement morphed into Gamo testing all (as in each and every one) of their spring-piston air rifles by dry-firing them 10,000 times! No — they don’t. If you think about it, they really couldn’t. That would add so much cost to each gun (the time spent putting them all into the cocking/firing fixtures then waiting for them to be cocked and fired 10,000 times, not to mention the vast number of fixtures they would need for a 40,000-piece model run) that a $200 air rifle would have to cost $400 or more.

Gamo doesn’t do that and they never did. But maybe the person who said that only meant that Gamo tests each type of gun (one test per model type — not each and every gun) with 10,000 dry-fires. They don’t do that any longer, either — or at least it’s no longer a part of their advertising campaign. Maybe they still test them that way — but they don’t talk about it as much. I said what I said in an historical context in my report titled, Does dry-firing damage airguns?. In that report a reader mentioned that Gamo addresses dry-firing in their frequently asked questions on their GamoUSA website. I went there to check and they no longer address it.

So, Gamo isn’t telling customers they can dry-fire their spring-piston guns. Except that I did find in the manual for the Swarm Fusion 10X they said that one way to safely test whether the rifle has a pellet in the barrel after it has been cocked is to fire it in a safe direction. If there is no pellet that would constitute a dry-fire, so they are okay with that.

And the others?

What about the rest of the spring-piston airgun makers? Are their rifles and pistols proofed against damage from dry-fires? Yes and no. Yes because of the materials being used today and because of the changes in design that lend themselves to more reliable performance, and no — because in a lot of instances this hasn’t been deliberate. I will illustrate with a scope analogy.

Under The Gun

Spring airguns break scopes. We have known that for a long time. But in 1998, when Leapers learned that was the case, they set out to design airgun scopes that could not be broken that way! They even designed test fixtures to test scope designs over the long term. During the same timeframe they added the name Under The Gun (UTG) to their scope line. Hence today UTG scopes are pretty much bulletproof. They are designed with Smart Spherical Structure (SSS) — a scope body that’s inherently stronger than other bodies because it addresses the interaction between the inner and outer scope tubes.

Now along come all the other scope manufacturers in the world — from the biggies like Leupold, Burris and Hawke to the little guys that make scopes for cheap. The biggies watch the scope market closely and, when some bozo named B.B. Pelletier starts waving his pom-poms, they purchase a couple of the UTG scopes he is raving about and examine them — CLOSELY. They discover that, indeed, there are some design features that are quite worthy and they find their own ways of emulating them. Next thing you know ten years have passed and all of the brand-name scopes are spring-rifle proof or, as in the case of Hawke, they know that certain ones in their lineup aren’t and they tell buyers up front. This migration doesn’t just happen through copying, either. Engineers change jobs and the word spreads.

Last to change are the cheapies, but they do change, because at the same time the manufacturers were getting smarter — so were the buyers. Maybe a full two decades have to pass before there are no more scope problems with spring-gun recoil, but it does happen.

An aside that is pertinent

Back to dry-firing. When major airgun manufacturers like Feinwerkbau, Diana and Walther used piston seals that are made of a synthetic that dry-rotted over time, they all got a black eye when the ship hit the sand. Quick as a bunny and with ZERO fanfare they all switched their formulas for their synthetic piston seals! What else could they do — advertise that their airguns now come with piston seals that DON’T dry-rot?

That, ladies and gentlemen, is why dry-firing should not hurt a spring gun today — but don’t do it regularly. Now — what about the other powerplants?

Pneumatics and gas guns read more

Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle: Part 2


by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Gamo 126
Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle.

Part 1

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • RWS Basic
  • Sig Match Ballistic Alloy
  • RWS R10
  • Warmed up?
  • Second string of RWS Basics
  • Pump effort
  • Trigger pull
  • Discussion
  • Summary

Today is velocity day for the Gamo 126 target rifle we are testing. We learned a lot from the comments in Part 1 and I also learned a lot while researching the rifle for this report. Today we will see where this particular one is.

The Blue Book of Airguns said to expect a velocity of 590 f.p.s., but many owners say 550 is about as fast as they ever shoot and some even say less. The rifle also starts loosing velocity over time, so we should be able to assess the health of the gun I am testing right away.

RWS Basic

I will start with the lightest lead wadcutter anyone is likely to use — the 7-grain RWS Basic. I will warm up the action with several shots before starting to chronograph the results.

The first string of Basics averaged 434 f.p.s. The low was 415 and the high was 449 f.p.s. The spread from low to high was 34 f.p.s. I guess this 126 is getting tired again, following its reseal.

Sig Match Ballistic Alloy

Next to be tested were Sig Match Ballstic Alloy pellets They weigh 5.25-grains and should be the fastest that I test today. Ten of them averaged 496 f.p.s. The spread went from a low of 490 to a high of 501 f.p.s. That’s 11 f.p.s., so this pellet might be accurate. And the rifle may be warming up, so I need to test Basics again.


The next pellet I tested was the 7-grain RWS R10 Match Pistol pellet. I also tried a different way of pumping the gun. Instead of forcing the pump lever closed as fast as possible I went with a smooth motion that was decidedly slower. R10s averaged 454 f.p.s. with a spread that went from 449 to 460 f.p.s. That’s an 11 f.p.s. spread.

Warmed up?

It seemed like two things had happened as I shot this test. First, the rifle’s pneumatic mechanism had warmed up and second, the different way of pumping seemed to have given the shots more stability. So I wanted to try RWS Basics once more.

Second string of RWS Basics

This time 10 RWS Basics averaged 452 f.p.s. That’s faster than the fastest pellet in the first string (449 f.p.s.). So one or both of the things I said were working. The spread for this string went from a low of 432 to a high of 462 f.p.s., so a difference of 30 f.p.s. That is close to the 34 f.p.s. I got in the first string, so I think this Basic pellet is just not that stable in this rifle. But the rifle pump mechanism definitely did warm up a little!

Pump effort

The Gamo 126 and Walther LGR 10-meter target rifles both share a common flaw, in that their pump stroke is on the closing stroke when their levers move forward. This tends to make both rifles harder to pump than other single-strokes, though the Gamo has some kind of pump assist in its oil-filled piston and is actually easier to pump than any other 10 meter single stroke rifle.

The rifle I am testing requires 15 pounds of force to pump if you go steady and smooth. If you force the lever the effort spikes to more than 20 pounds. Only the awkward placement of the pump fulcrum at the rear of the action gives any hinderance at all.

Trigger pull

Now we come to the thing I am most interested in — the trigger pull. I told you in Part one that the 126 has a world-class trigger and now we will see how correct that was.

This is a two-stage trigger as all target triggers should be. I mean real target triggers — not just triggers that have the name target in their title. Stage one takes 3 ounces to complete and stage two breaks at 3.4 ounces. That’s an average of 5 pulls.


The powerplant in my rifle is not performing to spec. But it is fairly stable if I pump it correctly. I can live with that long enough to get through the accuracy test that comes next.


It seems that reader Geezer was right about the Gamo 126. It apparently does have performance issues. I always heard that it did, but now I know what they are and why they exist.

Does a 126 belong in a collection of vintage 10-meter target rifles? At this point I think it does — warts and all. But I still need to see the accuracy to know for sure.

Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle: Part 1

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Gamo 126
Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic 10-meter target rifle.

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • Three different models
  • Dimensions
  • Markings
  • Gamo and Daisy
  • Curious
  • Description
  • Sights
  • The 126 is a single stroke pneumatic (SSP)
  • Oil-filled piston?
  • Velocity
  • Trigger
  • Summary

This report is one I was goaded into. In the report titled Gamo I wrote the following, “Then there was the Gamo 126 single stroke pneumatic target rifle. Daisy sold them for a while (1984-1994), just as they did FWB 300s. They are not as refined as a Walther LGR, but they do work fine and are quite accurate. They typically sell for a little less than FWB 300s , but still command a fair price. Expect to pay north of $400 for one that works.”

Reader Geezer responded to that with this, “The Gamo 126 does not “work fine”. They are notoriously unreliable and hard to fix.”

That stopped me in my tracks. I will admit that I also have heard that the 126 is difficult to reseal and I know that a lot of them that have not been resealed, perhaps for that reason. The 126 was produced in the 1980s. The Blue Book of Airguns says production ceased in 1994, but they also say the 126 is an El Gamo, and my 126 is just marked Gamo. So, their information may be off in other areas, as well.

Three different models

The Blue Book also describes three models — an El Gamo 126, an El Gamo 126 Super Match Target Rifle and a model 128 Gamo Olympic. No distinction is made between the 126 and the 126 Super Match Target, other than the latter has adjustable sights and a match-style hardwood target stock. The description also mentions that this model weighs 10.6 lbs. Both are SSPs and the regular 126 has no other description with it, other than it was made in 1984.


My rifle measures 43.5-inches overall with an 18-inch barrel. The length of pull is 14 inches, which is very long for a competition rifle. It should be 11.5-12.5-inches because of how it’s held in the offhand position.

Just for kicks I weighed my rifle. It weighs 9 lbs. 12 oz. so I think it’s clear that I have the standard 126. It is quite light for an adult target rifle and is more of a Junior model.

The 128 Gamo Olympic has an adjustable cheekpiece and buttplate and a “high-quality European diopter sight”. My rifle has an adjustable buttplate but the cheekpiece is not adjustable.


My rifle is not marked with a model number that I can find. It simply says gamo (lower case) Made in Spain on top of the compression tube and MC Cal 4,5 (177) and the serial number, with symbols of what looks like a botched Freimark (Capital F inside a pentagram denoting an energy below 7.5 joules) and the profile of a wadcutter diabolo pellet.

Gamo 126 name
This is the main marking on the rifle. No model number is shown anywhere.

Gamo 126 serial number
The serial number. The Freimark to the right of the caliber appears to be double-struck.You can also see what has to be hand stippling on the stock.

Gamo and Daisy

Gamo 126s were imported and sold in the US by Daisy. Mine is one of those. Daisy marked the rifle in the center of the aluminum accessory rail under the forearm. Now, there has been a lot of talk on all the forums about these guns over the years. I can tell that a lot of it is just jabber and conjecture, but one fellow who owns one says that Daisy advertised the rifle at 550 f.p.s. and his shoots 536. That’s the sort of report I believe. He also says Daisy sold two different models — one with and the other without the accessory rail. Could that be the difference between the standard 126 and the Super Target version?

Gamo 126 Daisy markings
Daisy marked the rifle at the bottom of the accessory rail.


I have shot a 126 at some time in the distant past, but I never owned one. So Geezer’s comment spurred me to look for one. As luck would have it I found one right away and it had been resealed by Champion’s Choice, so I took the plunge. Unlike many vintage airguns a Gamo 126 is not one to invest in, because there is so much bad press surrounding the model like Geezer has mentioned.


My 126 is all metal and wood, with a strange plastic sheath around the barrel that looks like deep bluing, but can be detected by touch. It isn’t a shroud; it’s just a thin sheet of something. The rest of the rifle is blued steel except for a plastic triggerguard. The metal bluing looks deep and the metal is well-polished for today, but it’s not up to the quality level of the contemporary target rifles of the time like the FWB 300.

The stock is a hardwood that might be beech, but if it is, it’s a type of beech I’m not familiar with. It has a subtle grain that beech seldom has. It’s finished in a blonde stain. And there is coarse stippling everywhere your hands go, including on the bottom of the pistol grip. I see no evidence of a strengthening bolt through the pistol grip that is oriented almost 90 degrees the the wood grain, so I will be careful when handling the rifle. FWBs and Anschütz target rifles are notorious for breaking at the pistol grip for this reason.

The forearm narrows after the place where a target shooter would normally hold it, and the aluminum accessory rail on the bottom provides a place for a hand stop/sling swivel or a hand rest for those matches where they are permitted.

Gamo 126 hand rail
The accessory rail is inlet into the forearm.


The front sight globe that accepts different elements sits on an aluminum muzzle swelling that is finished in a matte gray. The rear target sight is also aluminum and will be familiar to many shooters who have seen them on other target rifles — notably those from Daisy.

Gamo 126 front sight
The hooded front sight accepts interchangeable inserts.

Gamo 126 rear sight
The Gamo rear target sight is familiar to many airgunners.

The 126 is a single stroke pneumatic (SSP)

The 126 has a long sidelever on the right side. Withdraw it to the rear and there is no resistance. Then there is a second operation that is unique to this model I think. The compression chamber must be slid to the rear manually to access the breech. A pellet is loaded into the breech and the chamber is once more manually slid to the front. If you fail to do this the sidelever will push it closed, but it will not compress air on the stroke. I wonder if there are some working 126s out there that are just not being operated correctly? Probably not, but it makes me wonder.

Gamo 126 lever open
The sidelever comes back far with no resistance. The rifle pressurizes when the lever is pushed forward, and it is much lighter than any other target SSP target rifle I have experienced. read more


by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

A history of airguns

This report covers:

  • From Yogi
  • From Will S.
  • History
  • El Gamo 300
  • Collectable Gamos?
  • Beeman Precision Airguns
  • Gamo 126 10-meter target rifle
  • El Gamo triggers
  • What about the interim rifles?
  • So — what’s the verdict?
  • Summary

Today I am writing about Gamo. Here is how it came about. On Tuesday we received these comments to my post about the Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X Gen2 repeater.

From Yogi

“Well, Gamo knows how to make airguns and I’m rooting for this one to deliver on all that it promises.”
My only experience with Gamo was a piece of junk, and the pellets re not much better. What is the greatest Gamo of all time?
Maybe a Friday blog about it?
What is the best gun they have ever made? Anything worth collecting?

From Will S.

Morning B.B.,
On some rifles, not all, Gamo uses an all-polymer breech block and the pivot bolt is GLUED IN so you can’t adjust it when the barrel has side-to-side wobble. If you can’t adjust such an important part of the rifle, then the rifle will permanently lose its accuracy and will no longer be interesting to use. No more Gamo springers with polymer in place of steel for me. read more

SigAir Super Target: Part 4

by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier

Sig Super Target
SigAir Super Target (photo provided courtesy Sig Sauer).

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3

This report covers:

  • Adjusting the trigger — first
  • Adjusting the trigger — second
  • Accuracy
  • The test
  • RWS Hobby
  • Let’s examine that group
  • Hobbys again
  • Sig Match Pb
  • RWS R10 Match Pistol
  • H&N Finale Match Light
  • Discussion
  • R10 second try
  • Summary

Here we go, guys. Today we look at the accuracy of the new Sig Super Target single stroke pneumatic (SSP) target pistol. I’ll tell you right now that it’s accurate. But there is a lot more to cover today, so let’s begin.

Adjusting the trigger — first

Two words of advice. First — don’t adjust the trigger — at least not until you shoot the pistol a little. Second — if you do try to adjust it — GO SLOW! I know that most adjustable airgun triggers require a lot of adjustment before anything can be felt. This one is different. Please listen to BB.

I tried each of the adjustments for you and wound up removing the pull weight adjustment screw from the pistol. It wasn’t easy to put it back in again — it took many tries over several days to get it back. It passes through the trigger return spring that puts tension on the screw as you are trying to start the threads.

I thought I would be the only one to do that until a reader contacted me and said he had done the same thing with his Super Target. When he contacted me I had already replaced the screw, so let me show both you and him what it looks like when it’s in the gun correctly.

Super Target trigger
The big slotted screw on the left is the one that adjusts the pull weight. I turned it out too far and it popped out of the trigger. I then spent a lot of time trying to get it back. See the U-shaped wire spring that it passes through? That’s where the difficulty lies.

There is no hole through the triggerguard for a screwdriver to get on that screw, so the screwdriver has to come in from the side, yet still turn the screw straight into its hole. I even have short screwdriver bits and a sideways ratchet mechanism, but there isn’t enough room in the triggerguard for them.

Adjusting the trigger — second

Once the pull weight screw was back in place I found that all my “adjustments” were so far out of whack (my fault) that the trigger would not engage. So I cried, “Help!” to Sig and Ed Schultz sent me the following graphic.

Super Target trigger adjustments
This graphic is very helpful getting the trigger back into adjustment. The manual has a drawing that is clearer, but I like this one better.

The manual says to adjust each screw slowly (in small increments, like a quarter turn) and they mean it! I started out adjusting like an airgunner, which is to say more is better, but this trigger is very sensitive and needs those small movements of each screw. Also, adjusting one screw affects all the others, so check after each small adjustment. I went from a 15-pound pull (estimated) to a 2-pound pull in just five or six quarter-turn increments!

There! I have told you what to do and how slow to do it. If you get in trouble now, it’s your fault. I learned the hard way, as did one of our readers. Pay attention and you don’t have to.


Today is accuracy day and we are all curious how the Super target shoots. This will tell you whether this is the air pistol for you.

The test

This is a 10-meter target pistol so I shot from 10 meters. I shot off a bench with two different holds that I’ll describe as we go. I shot 5-shot groups so I could shoot more targets. And, since an optical sight cannot be mounted on the Super Target, I shot with the adjustable sights that comes on the pistol.

RWS Hobby

First to be tested was the RWS Hobby pellet. I shot this group with the bottom of the pistol grip rested directly on the sandbag. Because the Super Target has open sights I started right at at 10 meters and the first shot landed in the black of the bull. Four shots later and I had a 0.89-inch five-shot group at 10 meters.

Super Target Hobby group
From 10 meters the Sig Super Target pistol put five RWS Hobby pellets into 0.89-inches between centers.

Let’s examine that group

That group tells me two things. First — why do pellets string vertically like that? That’s right — because the velocity varies from shot to shot.

Next — why do wadcutter pellets tear target paper? Right, again. Because they are traveling slowly. Target paper is designed not to tear.

Now for the important question. The Super Target is an SSP. How do we speed up the pellets from an SSP and also make the velocity more consistent, shot-to-shot? We do it by pumping partially before pumping the gun completely — to flex and warm up the pump cup or other piston seals. I really want to know how this Super target performs so I shot a second string of Hobbys while warming the pump cup this way. I’m still resting the bottom of the pistol grip directly against the sandbag.

Hobbys again

This time I partially pumped the pistol five times. Then I loaded a pellet and gave it another partial pump that was quickly followed by a complete pump. I could hear that the pellet flew faster this time. After five shots I had a 0.57-inch five-shot group that exhibited zero tendency to string vertically. That’s a group size shrinkage of more than three-tenths of an inch by just changing how the pistol is pumped.

Super Target Hobby group 2
A second group of RWS Hobbys proved everything I said about velocity and consistency. Five shots are in 0.59-inches between centers at 10 meters. read more