How do I tighten up the sight on this gun mine is loose?
What is the difference between the summit and the trail or even golden shockey editions are the internals and barrel the same
All the NP2 guns have the same powerplant as far as I know. They have a new NP2 Elite that may be different in some way, but I doubt it, and if it is I doubt it matters. The suppressors can be different, they have three different ones that I know of, excluding false ones. The original one has a simple shroud that's the same round size to the muzzle. Then they have one with a slightly bigger muzzle end, and one with a bigger end. Since the most of the noise does not come from the muzzle, and the orig one works very well, I think anything other than the original one is a waste of time. The orig one also comes apart very easily for cleaning, repair or mods. Like the barrel crown is often nasty, and some have damage at the muzzle, so you may to fix it. Not sure if the others suppressors can be removed at all, which would be a very bad thing imo. The barrel itself is no doubt the exact same, but if the suppressor cannot be removed then the barrel may not have a threaded tip like the original. So I'd just get the cheapest one you like the looks of. I like the looks of the original Trail most. Probably more because it's wood rather than design, but hopefully some day they'll come out with a nicer wood stock. There's also the Dove or Picatinny rail versions. I prefer Dove, which is usually cheaper, but the Pic is super popular. All the parts can be bought from Crosman. I've bought many Crosman guns that were on sale for super cheap, but not exactly what I wanted, then I simply bought the parts to make it what I wanted. Just price the parts first because a new wood Trail stock was more than I paid for my complete and brand new wood Trail gun. Most Crosman parts are cheap, that one was not...
The differences are mostly visual, I believe the NP2 power plant is the same, being that they are the same in fps. Which one you choose would be personal preference. Get a chronograph. Woodys World.
I cannot zero the scope because I ran out left adjustment in scope dial. Does anyone have a suggestion?
Brad had the correct idea because your problem is the barrel is pointing downwards, aka "barrel droop" which pretty much all break barrel guns have. Some are so bad you end up with your problem, but even if not as bad it should still be corrected... The fix is to adjust the scope so it points in the same downward direction. The adj mounts Brad mentioned are expensive, but if you do I suggest you get a Pictanny, not Weaver b/c your rings are Pict and may not fit a Weav adapter. I suggest a free alternative instead, called shimming the scope. Leaving the scope mounts attached to the gun, remove their caps and lift the scope out. Now place some thin sheet material on the saddle of the rear mount so when the scope is reinstalled it'll be tilted pointing downward a bit. I use plastic sheet to shim the scope, like plastic cut from a soda bottle. You cut the plastic so it fits neatly between the scope and mount, generally covering only about 2/3rds of the bottom mount since having material on the sides will do nothing to raise it up, but may crush the scope since there is no side to side adjustment. How much shim you add depends on the gun and how far you want it sighted in at. Generally you can eyeball the barrel and scope to get it close, maybe use a yardstick etc to help. If not then just put one shim in and see how it works. You do not want to adjust the W/E screws as far as you did, and ideally you want the adj in the the center. You can eyeball center by looking at the inner tube thru the front lens and adj until it looks centered. Centered is where the lenses are in optical alignment and the scope works best there. There's also a spring in there holding your setting and the further out you unscrew the W and /or E screws the less tension the spring provides. When you adj out like you did it means the setting can move when fired. So set to the center or at least just adj the W/E screws to about the middle which is fairly close. Now clamp the scope back down and see where the pellet hits. If it still hits too low then add another shim. Continue playing with shim thickness until you're close to on target, specifically elevation. Once it's kinda close you can then use the W/E screws to dial it in, but if you have to adj W/E more than 1/2 turn from center I'd say you need to adj shim instead. I'd prefer less than 1/4 turn but up to you. Fyi it's better that you use a little too much shim and have to adj down than the other way around, due to the aformentioned spring tension. You can also use Aluminum from a soda can but plastic is best imo b/c it's easier to cut, work with and comes in a variety of thicknesses. If you're also off target left/right you can simply move the shim to one side to compensate. chevota at hotmail if you want or need more info. I also have a variety of other info to make the gun work better, which I share freely, to anyone fyi. For example; I believe most guns like this need a new main seal first thing, but there's other stuff they can bennie from as well.
Your problem appears to be in the assembly and mounting of the scope. Run the scope dial all way out to the right. Do the elevation dial the same. Take the scope off, separate the rings, examine every piece carefully in close detail. Reassemble the scope rings on the scope tube, mount onto the rail. Move the dials half way back to the center positions. Begin shooting at a large box with a target attached, from 15 feet away. Check point of aim against point of impact. Make adjustments to both dials according to aim and impact points. Move further back from the box, if your impact shots are hitting the bos, continue until you have reached a desired distance you want the air rifle cited in. Use of a .22 caliber, 14.3 grain pellet or .177 caliber, 10.5 grain pellet. Do not start with a pellet too heavy. Woodys World.
Or upgrade to a better scope ? either or ?.
Get a drooper weaver mount from UTG
I bought this gun in December, and I love the gun but hate the scope. I've put 500 rounds of pellets through it and can't get it to zero past 15 yards. I can get a half inch groups at 15 yards, but when I go to 25 I can't hit the target. And yes I use a table and gunrest.
Generally if they work at 15 they work at 25 too, just a but further off since you're further away. Some issues can include velocity, hold on the gun and parallax error. Odds are you have more parallax error at 15 so that's likely not the problem. If you have a 177 gun then you may be shooting too fast and that's causing it. If 177 then I suggest 10.5gr pellets, like the JSB 10.34gr, H&N Baracuda or Crosman heavy. Could possibly be you, meaning you're holding the gun differently? Try using your hand or soft padding under the rest and be sure the stock is in the same spot on your shoulder, same tension, and not touching the table. You see, unlike firearms, springer guns move before the pellet exits. Point being that if anything touching the gun is different, like how it's held, it will upset its movement and thus poi. This issue varies drastically from gun to gun but you can't tell until you play with how you hold it. Also note; pellet choice can be even worse. Some guns just don't agree with certain pells, sometimes they only like one pell so try many. Cheap pells are usually a problem for a few reasons, so I always suggest quality. JSB pells work best on avg (imo), but your gun may prefer H&N or Crosman. And of course in a weight that gives a reasonable velocity. 900fps is considered the max for accuracy, but I generally don't have an issue up to ~950 or so. If you have a .22 then I'd try the JSB in 14.3 and 15.9gr. Parallax; you can check yours to see where it's to be sure, google how-to. Oem setting is supposed to be 100', and it the further you are from 100' the worse it'll be which is why I said 15 should be worse than 25. You can adjust it if you want, like setting to 75' which is what I usually do since most of my shots are <100'. If you shoot at a variety of distances you can match the scope zero to the arc of the trajectory, rather than one set target range closer than that. If you do it'll be more accurate, on avg, for a broader range of distances. It varies with the gun and pellet but generally ~35 yrds. It also makes it easier to estimate holdover, and less of it is needed. I also like the poi ~1/4" or so high at 35 which makes the span it's within 1/4" accurate even greater. If you map out your trajectory, like with the free program Chairgun, and set it like I suggested, it's very easy to see how/why this is true. Just remember to use the actual velocity # in the program, not the exaggerated # Crosman claims.
You have to zero/site it in for 25 yards. Big difference between 15 and 25 yards. I have mine zeroed at 80 measured feet. I am able to hit anything from 70-95 feet. Closer or further away I make my sight adjustments using the scopes mil-dots. At 120 feet I use 1 mil-dot elevation adjustment. I zero/ sight mine in using .22 Premier Ultra Magnum 14.3 grain pellets. Different pellets and weights may require rezeroing or sighting.
Combo / scope packages rarely work out . Upgrade ?.
Are the heavy pellets such as Eun Jin 28 gr. and JSB Monster recommended for hunting with Summit NP2? What is the average FPS with heavy pellet? Thanks.
How often do I need to lube the Summit NP2? Do I use Pellgunoil for the job?
ONLY use Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil for Breakbarrels and PCP Air Rifles. I use it every 6-12 months, one or two drops in to the chamber.
Only use Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil. It is made for all breakbarrel and PCP Air Rifles. Use one, no more than two drops, at most. Put it into the chamber that leads to the piston, not in the barrel. I lube mine once every 6 -12 months.
Do the new Benjamin NP 2 have automatic safety? Also which is easier to cock (for a woman) Benjamin Np or Stoeger? Thanks, Marsha
The Benjamin Summit NP2 is a comfortable, easy, and accurate rifle to shoot
No auto safety. I assume you mean the Stoeger X20S, which may be a little harder to cock. The X20S is also lighter and less powerful. Both guns can be made to be easier to cock by reducing power. Most don't want to do that but it make the gun quieter and smoother to shoot. The NP2 has an available lighter gas spring (~$8) which should make it 30-40% easier to cock, The X20S is more easily adjustable and can be set anywhere from oem to about half power for basically free. With both guns the power drop more or less matches the reduction in cocking effort. There is likely very little info on that online so if you need you can write me; chevota at hotmail, but know it requires taking the gun apart and either replacing a part (NP2) or modifying parts (X20S).
Trying to decide between the Benjamin Summit and the Stoeger X20S2? Need something super quiet, accurate and dependable? Also considering the Ruger Black Hawk? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
The Stoeger has 5/6 less FPE than the Summit, it's also 4 or 5 dB louder, and weights almost a pound more. Its about as accurate and costs about as much. Your call.
Summit and X20 are equal in suppression, Summit is the better rifle
Is the butt plate removable?
Is it brend new for the price of 150
Yes unless it says refurbished , then open box or slight use?
is this gun made in U.S.A ???
Assembled in america with globally sourced parts.
Will this fit the gun and scope? B-Square 10101 1" Interlock Adjustable Rings, 11m...
Not if they are for 11mm grooved receivers. This rifle has a Weaver/Picatinny rail built on.
You also have the Benjamin Summit N2 in cal .22
If that is a question the answer is; yes. If a statement the answer is; we know.
Do you have the Benjamin summit np also in .22 ?
I agree, this gun has plenty of power to project a higher caliber pellet. Get the .22
yes. in my opinion, the .22 caliber is more accurate and definitely has added knock down power due to the heavier pellet. The 22's ability to transfer more energy to the target and hold it's trajectory better, not affected by wind as much as the .177's are. The 177's may be faster but fast is not always best.