When I got my red 34 the sights did not adjust high enough for me to sight in the rifle. Later I mounted a utg scope mount and scope. The rifle was working fine until the barrel started getting stuck and not being able to break currently it is stuck should I just oil the moving parts or what should I do???
Do these have the Diana huntress logo below the Rws logo, or just the Rws logo?
When out hunting, how long can you keep the RWS/Diana cocked before losing power or harming spring?
I would recommend no longer than a few hours at a time. There is not data to support a given amount of time damaging or hurting the gun if left cocked, but personally, a few hours is my limit
I was given the RWS/Diana and would like to know if it is a .177 caliber or .22 caliber. how can you tell the difference? It does not appear to be acknowledged on the gun.
Check the breach block it's usually there,
First 2 shots are almost always dead on but my 3rd shot doesn't even hit the target. Why???
Hey Tyler, has RWS/Diana done anything recently about the barrel droop or the slanted breech of the 34? Umarex is unresponsive to the question.
I recently received for christmas a RWS Diana 34 Standard (T06)......tried to mount a scope actually 2 scopes...1 was a crossfire II (3-9 x 50) and the other was CVLIFE (3-9 X 40). I could not get on target with either scope despite using shims. I finally mounted an old gamo scope (junk imo) but I guess not so much!...I'm getting perfect groups with almost every shot. BIG question.....what did I do wrong with the first 2 scopes mentioned above.
Is the barrel droop just part of this model design and thus present on every rifle?
My understanding is it is a design character of many break barrel air rifles. I mounted 4-16x50AO scopes on my 34T06's using MNT-DNT06 (PY-A-4191) droop compensating mounts w/ low rings so any droop is negated. Hope this helps, RP.
is the diana goddess still on the brand new model 34?
I bought one Sept. 2018, and it didn't have her on it.
She's on my RWS Diana 350 Magnum made in 2015
She is not on my 34p made in 2016
She is on the RWS 34 T06 rifle I purchased in 2013 and also the one I purchased in 2015; not sure of any reason she will not to be on the current RWS 34 rifles also.
Pellet doesn't seem to seat straight or flush no matter what I do. It tilts downward and the bottom of the skirt is exposed. I could push it in further but it still seems crooked. Tried different pellets, a pen...is this a defect I need to send to RWS? Or anyone else had this problem?
You can use an air venturi pellet seater Pellet Pen and Pellet Seater,... to seat the pellet in.
I have a D34, and it is designed with the angle on the breech face. I use a pellet pen adjusted so the bottom pellet skirt is just flush with the breech face. Don't seat the pellet in too far because you will loose velocity. Don't seat the pellet too far out, otherwise the pellet skirt will get bent when the barrel is closed an accuracy will suffer.
The breach is machined on an angle giving the appearance that the pellet is crooked,but isn't not.There is nothing wrong with your rifle if I understand your question correctly.
Where is this rifle made?
Hey what's the effective range for squirrel and rabbits. I know you have to have accuracy but what's the power Reach out to.
I can only give my regularly experienced single head shot kill ranges for a RWS 34 in .177 with a 4-16x50 AO scope using CPHP 7.9 grn. : Squirrels 35 yrds.; rabbit 25 yrds. These are maximum distances I personally would humanely attempt with a .177 and are from a bench rest in a blind. Your mileage may vary, RP.
It depends. .22 or .117. Tell me that and I'll reach back to you.
What are the best pellets for the .177 RWS 34? What kind of muzzle velocity can I expect with these pellets?
All rifles are different and having 2 34's in .177 one likes in order of accuracy: 1st CPHP 7.9gr.; 2nd CPDome 7.9gr; 3rd RWS Superdome 8.3 gr. The other 34 is the same except it does not seat the Superdomes very well. I have not tried other brands because these are readily available off the shelf locally when not ordering from PA. Both rifles are sighted @ 25 yrds. (measured) and will stack pellets inside 3/4" dots from a bench. Don't have a chrony so no info on fps. Thanks, RP.
The best pellets I have found are Air Arms 8.4 gr, followed by AA 10.3 gr. My friend loaned me his chrony which showed the AA 8.4 gr clocking at 850 fps and the AA 10.3 gr clocking at 750 fps.
How many shots can you shoot the RWS 34 until you need to replace the piston seal and main spring?
The seal will likely last decades, maybe more. The spring can last for life I suppose but they are under a lot of stress so they do break now and then. I've never broken a spring on any gun but it's really just a gamble. I'd count on it not breaking, and if it does you can get a better quality one for about $20, even adjust strength and thus power up/down if you want. I don't agree with Tim so I'd most certainly oil and grease it. It doesn't need much (clearly if Tim uses none), but it is a metal device that sees stress/friction/wear so lube as it as you might imagine it needs. I use good motor oil or bearing grease, or you can buy moly paste. What/where/how often is the question I guess, but grease where you can get it in and oil to soak into places you can't is good. It's hard to over lube so I choose to lube more often, like 500 shots or 6-12months but most people go much longer. And of course care for the exterior as needed to prevent rust. Maybe clean the bore now and then and always be wary of the stock screws coming loose. The chamber needs lube too, just a drop in the transfer port, but what lube to use is a hot topic. I use motor oil but others insist on silicone. Up to you but silicone can damage other parts by displacing real lube.
I've had one since 1992 and it is still going strong. Don't ever put any lubricant or oil or anything in it. Just shoot the hell out of it.
That is a really difficult question to answer. My first RWS 34 .177 was purchased in 2013 and the mainspring broke in 2015 after countless tins of pellets. Happily Umarex warranted the mainspring, seal and spring guide with a very quick turn around. The second was purchased in 2015 while the other was being repaired and has not had any issues. Thanks, RP.
What is the actual fps at the muzzle that owners are getting when shooting a 14.0 - 14.3 grain lead pellet out of the 34 in .22? Thanks in advance, RP
My RWS 34 is getting 675 fps with 14.66 grain pellet
First airgun since a pump Benjamin in the 1970s...I read springers are louder than Nitro piston guns. How loud is the RWS 34? I live in San Francisco and have a bad gopher problem, but don't want to alarm the neighbors.
The 34 is rated at 3-medium which equates to about a loud hand clap. You can always shoot the gopher, run inside and wait until the neighbors are asleep to carry it off.
Is This Like Nitro or Vortex Gas Piston Power Systems Or Just Regular Spring Power System ?
It's a coil as mentioned, but don't let that dissuade you, coil works fine, is adjustable if you ever want and cheap to replace or upgrade. With a little work they can be made to be as smooth and quiet as gas. Gas however are usually not adjustable, can leak (and at some point will leak), add to the guns price and are more expensive to replace. I've never had a coil break on me but have had many gas springs leak. So while I think gas is neat, it's expensive and unreliable. Paul: Vortex and Vortek are what's confusing; Vortex is a Hatsan gas spring, Vortek is the popular aftermarket coil spring supplier.
The 34 is spring piston; RWS does offer a gas piston system in the N-Tec series.
The specifications states that it is a spring piston power plant. I've never heard of a Vortex gas piston system.I'm pretty sure they only sell spring kits.
Do the sights get in the way (view) of a scope. Thanks.
They don't for the Leapers 3-9x40 scope I use.
Not on mine; I have 2 34's both scoped using UTG droop compensator rails, Hawke low rings and UTG 4-16x50mmAO scopes. Hope this helps, RP.
Can you add a rubber but plate to the end of the stock? If so any recamendations.
Yes, but as Paul mentioned it isn't that easy because you buy a pad you like from a place like Brownells, which is oversized, then you have to use a power sander to shave it down to match the stock. You can use your old pad as a template. You might be able to buy the pad from a regular 350, but not guarantee it'll fit right. The slip-on pads are ugly imo, and can scratch the stock. Post if/how you do it because others want to do the same.
A Pachmayr slip on butt pad (large brown) works well on my 34 classic stock. Amazon has them and I am ordering another for my 2nd 34.
A rubber pad could be installed but to look nice it should be done by someone skilled in doing this kind of work. It more difficult then it looks.
Can I installation a scoop for air gun ?
Yes and I recommend the UTG DNT06 droop compensator rail and heavy duty weaver style rings (low Hawkes are on mine.)Don't forget to use blue thread locker (loc-tite/permatex) on all screws (incl. stock screws) for rock solid mounting. Hope this helps. RP.
Yes, but get a droop mount for it.
I know Diana is a German co. Is the RWS 34 manufactured in Germany as well? If not where are most of the parts manufactured at and where is it assembledad?
RWS was a import company for Diana. RWS never made a single rifle.
It's made in Germany and the majority of its parts are German made.
The specifications list the weight of the wooden stock version at 7.5 lbs and the synthetic stock version at 7.75 lbs. Are these numbers correct?
I can't speak for this gun but it's probably correct. Most other brands I have the syn stock is heavier. My Trail syn is 24oz heavier than the wood version, if you can imagine that.
can I order front &rear sights fir my diana model 36
You would need to contact Umarex USA for sights for a 36.
Hi! I Got my RWS 34 a couple weeks now and just started to get some shots out. My question is," do most shooters seat the pellet or just push it into the breach?". If you do seat the pellet, how far do you seat it? Thank You, Mike
As mentioned it depends on the skirt, some pellets will fit tight and require more effort to seat into the breach than others. I have used pellet pins and they do work, however I usually just push pellets in with finger tips. Just make sure the skirt does not protrude from the breach or they will get deformed when closing the barrel. Hope this helps, RP.
Imo you should only seat it with your finger like Michael said. The reason is not for accuracy, but to allow the gun to build more pressure internally so the piston doesn't slam into the breech as hard. That slam is what breaks scopes. Plus it usually nets more power. For the same reason it' better to use mid to heavier pellets. I think ~8.4gr in 177, and 14.3 in 22 should be minimum weights in this gun, lighter typically gives no advantage but is harder on the scope. If no scope then no worries, but those weights still work better all around.
Just use your finger and the soft tissue area will push it in enough. No need to buy a gimmick item to do this. Unless you just want to buy something.
Well, there is a short answer and long answer. Short answer is - experiment! Depends on the pellet (its skirt) and your barrel. If you have a .22 cal: get this adjustable pellet seater, if you have .177 then use this .177 one.