Page 7 of 7 - Bullseye ZR, for 1" or Reviews
68 of 68 Bullseye ZR, for 1" or Reviews
It works on my springer air rifle. This was what I was looking for to make it easier on my scope.
Rings need to be higher off the base. I had to add spacers in the rings.
this mount works well on one out of three guns that I have tried it on. The problem is the built in droop correction makes it impossible for me to use it on my AA Pro Sport or my Walther LGV. Evidently my TX 200 has some droop and I can use it. I get very good accuracy with it. It goes back in to register very accurately for each shot and is very solidly built. I wish they had a zero droop compensation version. I Could use the Weaver version and use a UTG droop base in reverse to cancel out the droop compensation but that would result in an excessively high scope.
offer a version that is not droop compensated.
you cannot shim this mount. It will lock the slide.
The concept of neutralizing harmful recoil that damages scopes.
Improve quality control. I own four of these Diana Bullseye ZR 1-piece mounts. I had to return a ZR mount because there was a lot of vertical movement between the two rails and the housing. I noticed a rattling sound each time I fired my Diana 460. Every screw on the rifle and the mount was properly torqued. I gripped the objective bell of my scope and noticed vertical movement when I applied pressure. Horizontal movement was also present but not quite as pronounced. The palpable play in the rails explained why I kept getting consistent flyers and large groups at 30 yards. Upon discovering the slop in the rails, I checked my other ZR mounts and found no play in two and extremely slight play in the third. So far, the ZR mount with the minimal play has not affected my ability to knockdown field targets. However, on paper, I get consistent flyers.
If you order the Bullseye ZR mount, test it for slop the rails. Grip your scope at either end and apply pressure. Gauge your decision to keep the ZR Mount by play in the rails and actual repeatable accuracy. Of the four Bullseye ZR mounts that I own, the first two were purchased when the mount
was introduced. Those two mounts are solid.
My Bullseye ZR mounts are installed on Diana high power air rifles.
springs back and forward to protect scope.
Change the pins for a bar and screw the rings on the bar. Use heavier spring. Should be mounted with arrow pointing towards eyepiece. Recoil first is to the rear then forward and then upwards. Is not worth 100.00 USD.
When you tighten the screws on the rings for some reason the pins stop moving freely on the mount. While zeroing the scope the front ring came of the pins. I believe it happened because it was mounted with the arrow pointing towards the muzzle as per instructions.
I just purchased this mount. 2 problems I am having. When you tighten the rings to hold the scope causes that the sliding pins stop moving freely. I installed the arrow towards the mussle and there was no movement of the mount at all. I changed the arrow to point towards the eyepiece and the mount moved as it should. .
The mount should be able to acomodate any type of scope. Rings are a little low. Some scopes may not fit in the mount.
Nice finish, quality screws, droop compensation.
Nothing, this mount is solid as a rock!
Works very well on my Diana 54. I was worried about the recoil of the 54 ruining my prized scope. With the Dampa mount, it soaks up all the unfelt recoil very well. Scope has not slid, or shifted at all.
I am using a 10x50 UTG to start, after testing I feel this mount will work well with my Aeon 10-40x56.
Looks and feels solid. Bought it for my NP XL1100 which has killed 3 scopes so far (the original one that came with it, the replacement for that scope, and a nicer UTG scope). I'm hoping to eliminate some of the barrel droop that the gun has (don't really like shimming too much, and this gun has a lot of droop).
Looks like you need a scope that is no larger than 32mm objective lens, otherwise the bottom of the scope under the adjustment knobs will hit the base of the mount (and it won't move like it should). Make the rings higher so you can use at least a 40mm objective...
There are 4 smaller hex screws inside the rings to hold them onto the rails tightly. Not sure if this could end up being a source of scope movement after using it awhile (if they come loose) but I'm going to test it out in the next few days and get back with my results.
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Mar 08, 2017
By Winfred
It is a long story, but yes I like it a lot.
The mount could stand some improvement as when you mount the scope and tighten the rings, the FRONT ring will bind the slide bars to the point it will not move. You can secure the rear ring like normal, but the front ring has to be left a bit not as tight or it will seize up the entire assembly. So they need to beef up the metal around the ring areas so normal(not excessive torque) doe not seize up the whole assembly. So far so good, scope has not moved away from my pencil marks in 200 shots. I think it will hold.
This is mounted on a Diana 350 Panther Magnum. Only thing that will not walk backwards. I tried the BKL six screw mount and it would just walk backwards no matter how tight you tightened the fasteners. So it was either a scope stop behind the BKL or another solution, and this works very well on the 350 magnum. Simply put, I have as much invested in mounts for this gun as the price of the gun and this is the only mount that holds. I am sure the Leapers one piece mount with stop pin would work also, whatever you put on this Magnum it has to have a stop pin, as not even the famous BKL will hold. So if you purchase a magnum this is an excellent mount for that situation.