Some items excluded. Can be combined with free ground shipping on orders $150+, to contiguous US
|Max Velocity||800 fps|
|Front Sight||Fiber Optic|
|Rear Sight||Adjustable for windage & elevation|
|Suggested for||Small game hunting/plinking|
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Things I liked: Accuracy, nice quality wood stock, easy quick to use fiber optic sights!
Things I would have changed: include a tin of RWS domed pellets
What others should know: This air rifle is expensive but worth it as the 340 produces consistant accuracy and is something worth getting and keeping!
Things I liked: shot cycle is excellent
Things I would have changed: trigger adjustment - trigger is GREAT, but odd
What others should know: mine is a .22 and likes the JSB 15.89 gr.
Things I liked: Easy to cock. Accurate! Mine loves the JSB 15.89gr shot cycle is excellent.
Things I would have changed: First stage of the trigger is non-existent. Having said that, it is crisp and light.
What others should know: Get one now!
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Matt from USA: I would like to know why Diana is still opting to use the dovetail design instead of the Weaver/Picatinny. I thought the Weaver/Picatinny mount was more robust than the dovetail especially on springier and gas ram air rifles. Pump, PCP and CO2 aren't as destructive on scopes and the air rifles itself so I don't see a problem with using dovetail there.
That's a question for Diana. Many of the European manufacturers will not likely switch purely because dovetails are what they have been working with since the beginning. Thankfully, you've got options to convert it with the various UTG rail options that engage both stop pin holes on the factory dovetail. I'd check those out.
I have heard that the Diana 340 N-TEC air rifles have trigger adjustment problems. Have the new owners of Diana corrected the problem for these models? I only need answers from those who really know, and not opinions.
Although my 340 N-Tec ownership was short lived the modified T06 trigger can be adjusted to individual owners preference. There are youtube videos for adjusting the T06 trigger but I did not bend the tab as shown on one of them. The screws are a balancing act. I removed the stock to access the mechanism allowing you to cock the trigger with a screwdriver (a video will show this). I turned the 1st stage all the way in then gently pulled the trigger. I then reset the trigger screwed the 2nd stage all the way in and backed out 1 1/2 turns pulled the trigger again. I kept playing with the 2 screws until I had a very short first stage that you could feel the stop when it got to the second stage then a light and short travel 2nd stage. When I was happy with the settings I put it back in the stock. It is a very tedious process but worked perfectly; just remember 1 screw effects the other so turn them in short increments. I adjusted one of my RWS 34 T06's this way, the other was perfect out of the box. I am very happy with the T06 trigger although it does require a lengthy procedure to get the desired results.
What is the cocking force for this gun ?
The 340 N-Tec that I had was listed at 35# but the last few inches just prior to locking felt like 40#+. I am 62, in good shape and for me it was not a stretch on the 340. Only after an extended shooting period, 100 shots or so, when the barrel got down to the last few inches before locking I would tend to grab it with my other arm to assist at that point. Hope this helps, RP.
|Max Velocity||800 fps|