Diana 48/52
by B.B. Pelletier
I can't believe I haven't reviewed this classic air rifle, but last week a reader named Bob pointed out that I hadn't. I call it a rifle, singular, because the wood stock is the only thing that differentiates the two models. Both models have the same action, and Diana used to make the action with both numbers.
History
The Beeman R1 quickly took over as the baddest airgun in town in 1982, with an initial muzzle velocity of 950 f.p.s. in .177. Before that, Diana had one of the most powerful guns in their model 45, which could sometimes get up to 850. In the mid-1980s, Diana brought out the model 48 sidelever, which had an advertised velocity of 1,100 f.p.s. in .177. I have tested them in that caliber, and you actually can achieve it with light lead pellets. By that time, the basic R1 had climbed to 1,000 f.p.s. in .177, plus Beeman had a Laserized model that just made 1,100. However, you had to have that done as an option or you had to install the Laser kit yourself. Diana was back on top.
A quick caliber rundown
The 48/52 has been produced in all four smallbore calibers but is currently available only in .177 and .22. The .25 was disappointing for its low relative power, and I guess the .20 didn't sell well. The .177 is popular with shooters who compete in field target and is often purchased by people unfamiliar with adult airguns who are attracted by the high but unusable velocity. Once they discover supersonic pellets are inaccurate, they have the ability to go to heavier pellets and shoot them under 1,000 f.p.s. with a lot of power. Twenty-two caliber has always been the best caliber of all for this air rifle. It's best at using the available power, and it seems to shoot smoothest of all, though a tuned gun in any caliber can be very smooth.
Light cocking
For the power, I think the 48/52 cocks easier than any other spring gun. The ads say 39 lbs., but I have registered as little as 32 on some of them. The gun does have a healthy kick. Some I have shot also had a lot of vibration, while others were very smooth, so I guess it depends on the individual gun. A ratchet safety holds the sliding compression chamber until a button in the stock is deliberately pressed; and, while it is quite a simple arrangement, it works very well. Remember to press the button after loading, or the sidelever won't budge.
Power
I registered a high of 22.73 foot-pounds of muzzle energy from a new .22 caliber model 48 when shooting 14.3-grain Crosman Premiers. That's a velocity of 846 f.p.s., which is an ideal speed for a pellet. I never tested the gun with JSB Exacts, but I certainly would today. They would go a little slower and produce a little less energy, too. A new .177 caliber model 52 I tested got 1040 f.p.s. with 7.9-grain Crosman Premiers. That works out to 18.98 foot-pounds.
Accuracy
This rifle has a deserved reputation for accuracy. The Bullseye Airgun Club in Louisiana used to have a huge contingent of shooters who shot 48s and 52s in field target competition. All were .177, of course. I personally have found the rifle quite accurate in both calibers but somewhat touchy as to how it is held. The trigger is usually under three pounds and a delight to use. With adjustments, it can get much lighter. A shooter who knows his gun can give a good accounting of himself with this gun in either caliber.
Potential for improvement
These guns respond well to a tuneup. I like to lower their power by 10 percent and eliminate all the vibration, and then they are a real delight to shoot. Hunters will find that they readily accept aftermarket sling swivels because of the solid stock. Ditto for bipod users.
Weaknesses
All Diana spring airguns have a weak scope mounting system. Little thought has been given to it, and there is no intrinsic scope stop anchor point like every other quality airgun has. You work around the problem by hanging the stop pin over the front of the raised ramp. Why Dianawerke doesn't wake up and change this half-century-old system is a mystery to me. Although, I confess that I sometimes cheat and just back the rear mount up to the large screwhead in back of the ramp and hope it doesn't shear off, as they are known to do.
I hope this report makes up for my oversight in never covering this model. It's a very nice spring gun with lots of power and accuracy. If it tickles your fancy - go for it!
posted by B.B. Pelletier @ 4:30 AM
126 comments
126 Comments:
I'm a long, tall fellow at 6'3"+. Would you reccommend the 52 with the inch longer stock? My checkbook wouldn't mind getting by with the less expensive 48, but I want to purchase a gun of this price just once so I want to get it right.
I've had my 52 in .22 for a little over a month now and love it more each day.
It may not be the best air rifle in the world, but it combines looks, power, and accuracy in a very affordable package.
You mentioned: "All Diana spring airguns have a weak scope mounting system. Little thought has been given to it, and there is no intrinsic scope stop anchor point like every other quality airgun has. You work around the problem by hanging the stop pin over the front of the raised ramp."
Could you explain this in a little more detail?
I have a 52 and a scope stop but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to install it properly.
A couple of pictures (if possible) would be greatly appreciated.
Keep up the good work.
Bob,
Yes, get the 52. I should have mentioned that the pull on these guns is very short.
B.B.
You can't figure out how to install your scope stop because there IS no way to do it porperly. That's what I was saying in the posting.
You have to use a one-piece scope mounts and hang the scope stop pin in front of the ramp. That is the only way to retard the rearward movement of the scope mounts. No amount of clamping pressure alone will hold the mount. There has to be a positive mechanical stop.
That is the problem I was referring to.
B.B.
hey i was looking around and seen a new rifle/air shotgun from gamo and i thought to myself an air shotgun? yeah the specs on it says its a smoothbore and its in .22 and is called the "Viper Express" well its a springer and have the rib top like a shotgun and i was wondering does it work? and how far is its effective range. what size shot it uses. well i have a .22 rimfire that uses shot shells from cci and i wanted a lower report so i wont disturb the neighbors. thanks later.
S.K.,
I will report on this.
B.B.
Regarding the scope stop:
I see now, thanks. Your initial write up made it sound like you could use a stop.
Adding to my confusion is that I have been using a 2-piece and it seems fine as is, having put about 250-300 shots through it with no stop.
Is a 2 piece setup simply insufficient for the 48/52 in your opinion?
Thanks
If you use a 2-piece mount, which I normally prefer, you have to hang the recoil stop pin in front of the ramp. That usually puts half the ring off the mount, and it looks funny. It may work, if you have a mount with a long base.
B.B.
Hey B.B.
I was wondering, you mentioned in your post that with adjusting the trigger can get lighter?
Is there any way to lighten the trigger of a CF-X?
Your section on tuning was great, although my CF-X still sounds the same (must just be me)
Keep up the great work
Re: Scope Stop
I'm using a B-SQUARE 11.7 mm recoil stop block.
I now have it hanging off the front...doesn't look too goofy. We'll see how it goes.
Thanks
Your separate scope stop will do nothing in that position. It needs to be behind one of the rings, which will try to move backwards.
B.B.
Dave,
The CF-X has an adjustable trigger, doesn't it? Are you saying that is doesn't adjust?
That doesn't surprise me, as their trigger is not a great design. However, they do loosen with shooting.
B.B.
Dave,
Arte you saying that your CF-X trigger doesn't adjust?
That trigger is a weakness in all Gamo rifles. They know it, too!
I do know that they loosen with time, but they will never be in the Rikeod class.
B.B.
Dave,
For your CF-X, I strongly suggest you look into a GRT-III trigger from Charlie's Springer Works.
cost is about $30 and is well worth it.
Thanks for the tips guys, Ill look into the $30 one.
If you check around you can get a 48 for $289 and a 52 for 340 at Midsouth Shooter's Supply. There's one or two other places that have them for about the same or a lil more.
Anonymous,
Yeah, I've seen a few around that are moderately cheaper priced, however.....those businesses don't sponsor this blog and this blog has been very informative to me. It's worth supporting businesses that support me and my hobby.
It might not pay to think this way in a financial sense, but in an ethical sense the dividends are great. Just my humble opinion.
Is pyramyd air still in business? Their phones have been down since last week...I shot over an email today in hopes of a response.
-David
David,
I have spoken to them many times in the past week. Their switchboard is so busy that they are rolling calls to an answering machine.
B.B.
BB,
Good to know. Maybe I'll try calling every hour or so with better results. Glad they're doing well business wise, that'll drive down prices for consumers :)
I'm thinking about replacing my Legacy 1000 with a Webley Xocet (maybe the carbine). My dad is set on the RWS 34 I think, but the Xocet looks to be a good one. I noticed there's no review of it, but do you have any experience with the Xocet or the Xocet carbine in 22cal? I was wondering if there were any disadvantages to the carbine, as I'd love to have a smaller, lighter gun if there are no drawbacks. I figure it might help accuracy with a shorter lock time, but does the shorter barrel hurt accuracy just by being shorter? It looks to be ~12" or so from other sites, which should be plenty for a springer right?
-david
david,
I've not tested an Xocet, but I have shot a Tomahawk, and it was typical Webley quality - which is to say good.
The disadvantage to any spring piston carbine is harder cocking, of course. The lock time is identical. The pellet dwell time in the barrel is less, but a proper hold can account for that.
Yes, a 12" barrel is long enough for a springer.
B.B.
Hello B.B.
A little off topic, but I was wondering if there was somewhere to send used 12g CO2 cartridges to be refilled/recycled. They seem well built and I hate to send this kind of stuff to the landfill.
jw
Nope,
Like flashbulbs and toilet paper, once used, no longer any good.
Some people make windchimes out of them. I bet a crafter would like to get some.
B.B.
B.B.
If you were to choose between an RWS 34 and a Webley Xocet, which would you choose? I've got a feeling you'd choose the Xocet from reading this blog for a while now, but I could be wrong...
-David
BB, I was surprised to hear you mention a sling for a springer. I assume it's just for carry and no serious springer shooters are trying to use them as elbow anchors when actualy shooting, or am I mistaken and it can be used and shot accuaratly in that way?
Thanks for the write up on this model. I really wanted a 48 in .22, but my wallet won out, and I got a CFX instead. Somebody mentioned the Charlie Da Tuna trigger for the CFX earlier, can't say enough good things about it. I put a GTX-II on my CFX, difference was night and day. Just got word today that the new GRT-III is now available, will be sending off my order tomorrow. Two off topic items. Someone questioned putting a large scope on a CFX in a previous post. I have a Leapers 3-12X44 on my rifle, with Leapers one peice high mount. Great combo, although I can't use the flip up scope covers. No problems with loading that way. BB, you've made several comments in other posts about Beeman Crow Magnum and Silver Arrow pellets not being accurate. Does that apply to the Silver Ace as well? So far the best 3 pellets in my CFX, in order, are JSB Match Diabolo S100's (8.26 gr.), JSB Exact Diabolo (8.4 gr.) and finally, Beeman Crow Magnums (8.8 gr.). Is it worth trying the Silver Aces? Thanks.
David,
Yes, I would choose the Xocet. That's based on the Webley barrel. When the Turks start making them that opinion goes away until I test one.
B.B.
Turtle,
On a sporting air rifle, yes, the sling is just for carry. On an Olympic target rifle, it's seriously used for bracing.
B.B.
daved,
Back in the 1970s, the Beeman Silver Ace was one of the top pellets in the world. I see no reason why you shouldn't try it.
B.B.
b.b., ive only had a crosman 760 all my life and i think i broke it. i feel its time for me to buy a new airgun. I would like to buy an accurate spring piston pellet gun for bird and small animal hunting, i.e. small squirrel. what rifle would u recomend that is within 100 to 200 dollars, thanks
b.b., I would like to have a .22 cal. or possibly .20, the diana 48/52 looks like a good gun but pricy,i think, i've read many of your articles and i'm fairly sure i want about 750-850 fps, but im not sure about knock down power. altogether i want a cheap, accurate, .22 cal. spring piston air rifle, is there such a thing in the 100 to 200 dollar price range? and if so would u recomend it?
b.b., i am starting to wonder about using a spring piston airgun, i've only used a crosman 760 for a few years and it was my first airgun. jumping up to a spring piston now looks like a big leap. do u think i should practice with a spring piston, or stay with a multipump(and if so, which one?)
P.S. sorry for this long message and the other 3, but you could consider me relatively new to this. I had always thought of all airguns as bb guns, used for occasional fun but not very accurate. Reading your blogs has really sparked an interest in me, seeing as its 4:00 in the morning, yep its 4 here not five.
Insomniac
b.b, price is a big matter too, i'll save up for a 200 dollar gun and then more for accessories, but i don't have a job yet. to afford another gun i'm applying for jobs seeing as noone well just give money.
Insomniac
crosman 760,
I suggest a Gamo CF-X or a Shadow 1000
B.B.
.22 spring gun,
There are a few cheap Chinese spring guns in .22 caliber that sell for less than $200, but I wouldn't receommend them if you want to hit what you're shooting at.
I know you want a springer, but on a limited budget, a Benjamin 392 is a much better buy, and it's accurate. All the inexpensive spring guns with any accuracy are in .177 caliber only.
B.B.
Insomniac,
I know what you are going through because it happens to me all the time, too. Believe me, an inaccurate gun is the last thing you want.
There are two ways to get what you want and need right now. One is to buy used, which is risky for a new shooter. The other is to go with a multi-pump of known quality. That's why I recommend the Benjamin 392. It has power and accuracy and the price won't hurt as much
I have owned a Sheridan Blue Streak, which is the .20 caliber equivalent of the Benjamin 392, for nearly 30 years. I have bagged rabbits at 35 yards with open sights with this rifle. It has killed more rats, mice, snakes and wasps than I can remember. If I were in your position today, I'd get a 392.
B.B.
thanks b.b., i liked the gamo cf-x, but its .177 caliber, and the benjamin sounds better for my needs.
in your article "The Benjamin 392/397 - 60 years later!" you said the beeman was hard to pump. im fifteen and im not that strong, my arms aren't the longest either. do you think i would have problems with the pumping or the pull?
would pellgunoil be a good oil for this gun? and what about cleaning/repairing kits, are there any you would suggest over the ?
paralax seems like it would be a hassle on a multi-pump, so would u suggest the crosman 64 peep sight or open sights instead of a scope?
Insomniac
the cleaning/repairing kit would be the one on this page http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/show_necessities.pl?show=Accessories&SubModelID=570 it seems to be named "Repair Kit" sorry for the typo.
i'd like to get everything right the first time.
Insomniac
b.b., i can't find a way to buy the crosman 64 peep sight or the jsb diabolo exact jumbo pellets, are they out of stock? do you know of any place i may buy them? like walmart or a gun store anywhere?
Insomniac
in my august 16, 2006 11:27 am message i said beeman when i meant benjamin, sorry for the typo.
Insomniac
b.b. would happen to know a site where i can catch up on the minnesota airgun laws? thx
Insomniac
Minnesota airgun laws are straightforward (I live in Minnesota).
It is unlawful to possess, store, or keep a deadly weapon, BB gun or, or replica firearm on school property or on a school bus.
It is unlawful to furnish a child under the age of 14 a firearm or airgun of any kind, or any ammunition or explosive without the parent or guardian’s permission. It is also unlawful for such child to handle or use a firearm or airgun of any kind or any kind of ammunition or explosive outside of a parent or guardian’s presence without permission.
Any person carrying a loaded BB gun, rifle, or shotgun on or about their person, not expressly to or from the place where the firearms are bought, sold, traded, displayed, or where hunting, target shooting, or other lawful activity occurs, is guilty of a gross misdemeanor.
Many municipalities have additional restrictions, such as requiring written permission from the property owner to hunt, may not discharge a firearm or airgun within city limits, etc. Thus, be sure to check with your local authorities as well.
Ehrich
thanks Ehrich, i appreciate your help. do you need a license to hunt for squirrels? or would an FAC work until your 16?
Insomniac
Insomniac,
First thing - no cleaning is required.
Second - you don't have to pump all the weay up to enjoy the gun. And continued used will strengthen you.
Third - I cannot find a Crosman 64 peep sight, but what you want for this rifle is the Williams peep.
B.B.
thanks again b.b., is that the full name of the peep? i cant seem to find it on the searches in pyramydair
Insomniac
Insomniac,
It appears we're talking about the same thing.
It's the model 64. I checked it on Crosman's website.
B.B.
thanks b.b., i think that covers everything i need, unless u can suggest any accessories or other things that might go well with the 392
Insomniac
as it turns out, my parents get queasy whenever i mention buying something on the internet. they're afraid someone will hack unto whatever system and steal their credit card number. i cannot persuade them that it is pretty safe.
so i cannot buy a benjamin 392 from pyramydair.com, is there anywhere else that i could buy one at about the 140 dollar price range?
i dont think they sell them in walmart, and im pretty sure they dont sell them anywhere in my small hometown. are there any gun stores, or other places (like fleet or cabelas) where i may buy one new?
hey b.b., and anyone else who reads this, my parents don't want to buy with their credit card, for 'security' reasons, does anyone know of a store in central MN where i could buy a benjamin 392? a new one around 150! not a used one around 100.
Insomniac
hey b.b.
i've been reading a bit of your blogs for advice on a pellet gun. i ordered an RWS Diana 52 from a Canadian Dealer in British Columbia about 3 weeks ago.
Well, i received it last week. I have a Bushnell Sportsman scope on it with some 100$ one piece scope mount (cant remember which brand, dad bought the mounts). Anyways, there is no scope stop pin in front or behind (i dont know what the pin should look like or how to install one anyhow) but the rear screw sits right behind the mounts and seems it should stop the mounts from moving.
Maybe be it from the scope or just a bad gun, but at 30 yards I can't seem to group better than 3 inches (10 shots). My dad can group 1/4 inch at 100yards with a .280 caliber rifle (not an airgun) and also cant seem to group better than 3 inches at 30 yards.
We tried shooting open sights but we got no better results and it's quite hard to shoot with the sights that come with the gun as they are very coarse.
Any ideas as to what could be the problem? is it possible we got a bad rifle?
oh sorry forgot to leave a name :P
signed,
Jay
Jay,
You could have gotten a bad rifle, but it's not likely.
Have you used the correct spring gun technique? That's usually the problem when a good gun gives poor accuracy.
B.B.
if by spring gun technique you mean holding it very lightly and such, yes i have...and also its sitting on a bench rest and being shot off rifle sandbags...constant 3 inch groups. actually we had the mount elevated in back using a thin sheet of metal (to counteract barel droop) so we were going to try to remove that to make sure it wasnt causing inaccuracy, and as we went to cock the gun, the spring wouldn't stay locked. we tried for a good 15 minutes to cock it but to no avail. the spring would just keep trying to push the lever forward. I think we just might have gotten a bad rifle. We are sending it back in a few days and hopefully the new one we get fairs better.
Jay
Jay,
You cannot rest a Diana 52 directly on sandbags and expect it to shoot. You have to lay it on the flat of your open hand.
Remember butting the scope mount against that rear screw? I think that may be the reason your rifle no longer cocked. The trigger assembly is just below that screw.
And as for shimming the scope, that is why I recommend B-Square AA adjustable mounts for this model. They almost always shoot low. And hang the scop stop pin IN FRONT of the scope rail. It's the only way to safely do it, so you obviously need one-piece rings.
The next rifle you get, try the artillery hold - no sandbags, just your flat palm. That is the secret of accuracy in this rifle.
Therte is no reason your dad should not be able to get a one-inch group from this rifle at 50 yards, shooting JSB Exacts and Beeman Kodiaks.
B.B.
BB...How did you lower the power of the m48/52 rifle by 10 percent, sounds interesting.
What I did at the time was install a replacement spring I bought from Jim Maccari. Since he doesn't sell springs any more, according to his website, I would buy one from John Groenewold.
John Groenewold, PO Box 830, Mundelein, IL 60060-0830, (847) 566-2365
B.B.
Hi B.B. and All,
I know Web pages don't always get updated in a timely manner, so may be you have information about ARH LLC which hasn't gotten around yet, or may be I'm not looking at the right Web page.
What I've seen on Maccari's Web page is, "We no longer sell, tune or repair airguns." Other than that he appears to be doing business as usual.
http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251328.htm
Please do correct me if I'm wrong about that! I've been shopping for a short-list of .22 caliber air rifles, with one deciding factor, for some of the airguns, being availability of a tune kit or parts, from Air Rifle Headquarters.
Thank you for providing info. about another source of mainsprings.
Regarding the the dovetail mount base on the Diana RWS model 48/52, I feel obligated to share a cautionary note, with owners or future owners of the air rifle.
I own a model 52 (date code: 03 91) and when I first purchased it I soon discovered the mount base shortcoming B.B. already mentioned plus one.
Long, sad, embarrassing story... short version: The dovetail mount base appears to be attached with three screws, BUT those three inset screws, and therefore the entire mount base, are *not removable* by any ordinary means.
This information has been verified, by one respected airgun tuner and one Diana RWS repair facility representative.
So, forget about trying to shim beneath the rear of the dovetail mount base unless you really know machinist and airgun disassembly/reassembly type stuff.
The work-around is to purchase a one-piece droop compensating scope mount, or a one-piece scope mount that's adjustable for both elevation and windage. Then a scope can be mounted with its own elevation and windage adjustments near the center of their full range of travel.
The downside to one-piece adjustable scope mounts... at least, to the one I own... is that *a lot of patience* is required, in order to get it properly adjusted. Seriously! On a DIY scale of 1 to 5 I'd rate the task a 6. After actually performing the task a few times I grudgingly give a high 4 or low 5 rating.
Web shopping I've seen some 'new' two-piece scope mounts which appear to be adjustable in some ways, but I have no further knowledge or experience with them.
Regarding the "scope stop anchor point": the dovetail scope mount on my Diana 52 does have two shallow circular depressions (not quite real holes). The scope mount I used had a stop pin which could be and was drifted downward into the rear depression, with a pin punch. I never experienced any scope creep, but I don't promise anyone else won't.
IMHO, the manufacturer should have rectified their anchor point shortcoming in their existing stock a long time ago, by simply drilling out those two shallow depressions, before mounting the base on the receiver tube. Then there would've been two honest-to-goodness anchor points in the mount base! Why haven't they redesigned the mount base? Go figure.
Last, but certainly not least, a quite serious word of *caution!* regarding the so-called 'anti-beartrap' mechanism, on this air rifle and others like it. I had one very frightening *user* 'malfunction' when I first got this air rifle.
With the cocking lever in the loading position I was changing my grip on the rifle, in order to load a pellet, and grabbed hold of the rifle stock right on top of the 'anti-beartrap' latch release... WHAM! BAM! Yikes!
Luckily the only damage was to my peace of mind, plus a dent in the rifle stock where the cocking lever first hit, and a gouge in the underside metal of the cocking lever where it hit the front pull rod hinge, on its second bounce.
This 'malfunction' was entirely my fault... user error! The 'anti-beartrap' latch on my Diana 48/52 has never failed to function properly. But, from that point forward I've also never assumed it, or I, wouldn't malfunction.
I never have my fingers anywhere near the loading port unless my left hand is gripping the rifle stock far away from the latch release, and the cocking lever, in the downward/loading position, is firmly secured behind my right leg. I'm not a contortionist so the only way I can do that is in a sitting position.
Sorry for the post length! I promise to try not to post very often. {grin}
Cheers,
GH
GadgetHead,
I just misread the announcement. I think what happend is he put it up and the forums said he was out of business, and I listened to them.
Thanks for setting the record straight. Maccari's ARH is the place to go for all springs lubes and similar supplies.
B.B.
Hi B.B.,
Well, I certainly hope the ARH Web page is correct and Air Rifle Headquarters still make and sell all their goodies.
I want to correct a possible misconception about the one-piece adjustable scope mount I wrote about in my long post. As I look at it now, it's possible to think I mean that all adjustable one-piece scope mounts are seriously difficult to set up.
I don't have experience with all adjustable mounts. The adjustable one-piece scope mount I own that's seriously difficult to adjust is as old or older than my Diana 52. It's a RWS "C" Mount.
It's both elevation and windage adjustable, but the windage adjustment isn't obvious. Changing the windage setting always messes up the elevation setting. The mount design and the setup instructions left a lot to be desired.
As you mentioned in your "Tuesday, January 17, 2006 Adjustable scope mounts" blog, I can certainly see how improperly adjusting the elevation, on the particular "C" mount I own, could easily bend the scope tube. Luckily I never did.
From Web site pictures I've seen of the current RWS "C" mount I can tell it has been redesigned. The 'new' ones look almost totally different than the old product I own.
For all intents and purposes that product redesign renders moot my comments about serious setup difficulty. I sure hope the redesigned RWS "C" Mount works better and has better instructions for setup.
However, at present I don't personally plan to find out about that. I'm going to try out one or another of the B-Square adjustable scope mounts.
Cheers,
GH
GH,
The RWS "C" mount has been made by several factories for RWS. In the begining it was Korean, then they shifted to a mount-maker in Australia. A few years ago, B-Square purchased the Australian company and moved all the machinery to Ft. Worth. They had to recalibrate the CNC machines and I think they did redesign the mount at that time. As the maker of the AA mount, they know how it shoud work.
Anyway, it's nice to get the rest of the story.
B.B.
BB, can you offer any guidance on deciding between a RWS 48 and a HW 57? If I understand correctly, the 57 is a bit nicer choice especially if you don't need the power of the 48.
I know the 48, but not the 57. Since it's a Weihrauch gun it should be fine, but I have no experience with it.
From the specs I see the power is around 13.5, which is fine for general shooting.
B.B.
How's the trigger on a 48? the 57 has the "rekord" which I believe you have commented on somewhere else. Also, is it true that a fixed barrel gun is at least somewhat less hold sensitive than a break barrel?
The Rekord trigger is better than the Diana trigger. And in my experience a fixed barrel springer is less hold sensitive.
B.B,
B.B.
I was wondering if you had could point me toward any websites selling original RWS parts.
In my case I'm looking for a new rear site for my RWS 52 as the old one is broken, I am mounting a scope so it doesn't matter that much.
Some Random Person
Some Random Person,
You need to go straight to the source. Call RWS USA, which is also Umarex USA.
479-646-4210
B.B.
B.B.,
I just sent out an order for pellets in .22 caliber taking advantage of Pyramid Air's buy 3 get the 4th one free. I bought the box of Crosman Premiers domed, RWS Hobby, JSB Exacts Jumbo (the 19 grain heavy ones), and some Beeman Kodiaks extra heavy. I think you mentioned the Premiers, Kodiaks and JSB exacts. Most of the RWS pellets are pretty good too. Are there any other pellets you could suggest that would perform really well for a Diana 48 in .22 caliber? Maybe a top 10 list. I'd like to get another 4 to 8 tins to experiment with. I really enjoy weighing them, firing them through a chronograph and calculating their energy lol. Shooting for accuracy isn't bad either but I drink way too much coffee to have a steady hold. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Shawn
Shawn,
I don't have a top 10 list. It seems you have bought all the ones I would recommend, except I would recommend the JSB Exact 15.9-grain instead of the 19 grain that I've not heard of.
B.B.
Doh! I must have been thinking of the H&N Baracudas that weigh 21 or so grains. You're right, they're 15 grains and some change. Thanks
So BB, how does the XS-B 30 compare to the Diana 48 in terms of performance? Just wondering as the 48 usually does need a tune as you mentioned and the B30 would as well.Seeing as the B 30 sells for less than half the price of the 48, how much less are you getting from a practical standpoint? I have bought three Chinese air rifles recently , all new, a RWS 320, a QB-78, and a Crosman Quest and all have been a joy to own and shoot.By the way, I very much enjoy your reviews.
B30,
Pyramyd plans on carrying the B30, so I will get one to test. I'll tell you what I think.
B.B.
BB, I will be looking forward to that review. Thankyou for the reply.
When compensating for elevation, do the same mechanics apply as for
front and rear iron sights? In other words, if the rear scope ring
is raised or shimmed, will that raise the point of impact? If the
front of the scope tube is elevated, will the point of impact be lowered? Maybe not a practical solution, but I have read of tapered scope mounts.
Thanks,
Don
Don,
You got it right.
This is why I use B-Square AA adjustable scope mounts. The rings are gimballed, so when they are not in alignment, they can tip forward and back to ease the strain of misalignment.
B.B.
Mr. BB., I just got a brandnew RWS 48 and it is quite wonderful. What I want to know is where do I put the oil in at to oil the mainspring? I don't see any hole or port to place the oil or where is it located at. Thank you..
JB of Ga..
JB,
First of all, don't oil, the rifle for at least a year! Diana air rifles use a special seal material that doesn't need much oil.
When it's time to oil, cock the rifle and look at the front of the sliding chamber that will be way back in the receiver tube. In the center of the sliding chamber is a hole. This is called the transfer port. Drop one drop (NO MORE!) of RWS Chamber Lube into the transfer port and uncock the rifle. Then cock it it and uncock it in several attitudes to spread the oil evenly around the piston seal.
After this, shoot the rifle about 20 times to further spread the oil
B.B.
Mr BB,where do I put the spring cylinder oil for the rws48? and my instructions says put 6 drops for this Is chamber oil and cylinder oil is the same? I'm sorry for all the questions but I'm new at this.
Thank you
JB of GA
JB,
Once again, your rifle mainspring won't need to be oiled for about a year.
When it does, remove the action from the stock which exposes the spring through a hole in the tubular action. That's where the drops go. It may look dry to you now, but your rifle is full of synthetics that provide a lot of their own lubrication. If you lubricate the rifle too much it will begin dieseling and that's difficult to cure.
B.B.
B.B., I have some limited experience with the 54, is it true the only real difference is the shifting action? Also you mention this gun's accuracy, would you consider it worthy of 20,30,36, and 45 yard sillhouettes? I'm a 10m shooter but I'd like to have a more powerful gun AND I'm going to start sillhouette soon so I need a gun that is better than the 10m. Your thoughts? This caught my eye as quality, accurate, and relatively cheap. Have I got the right idea?
Thanks alot-C
C,
An RWS Diana 54 is a wonderful air rifle, but it has many times more power than you need for silhouette. I've used 12 foot-pound rifles very successfully on 45-yard rams.
Also the cocking effort of the 54 will wear you out in a match. Take a look at the Air Arms S200 for silhouette. If you want a springer, the 54 is a great rifle but too powerful. If you could get it detuned to 12-14 foot-pounds you might have something!
B.B.
Woops, somewhere I got mixed up, I meant I'm considering the 48. The power difference is nil there though. I'm not too worried about a 35-ish lb cocking effort, call me crazy, but I found the effort required with the 54 to be...well...pleasant with the right technique. *Grin* Power's a good thing, as I plan on hunting small stuff at longer range (60ish yards tops) with it (yes, I know how you feel about the .177, but I assure you I'm not taking on anything bigger than a crow). My concern's accuracy, which after reading around quite a bit more I've learned is going to be quite good.
Nice write up, too.
-C
BB,
Just received a Diana 48, and right out of the box, I had a problem in which the sidelever would cock to about the 80-90% point -- and then stop. I had to manually pull the sidelever back an extra 1/2" or so while pressing the lever safety to release and return the sidelever to its seated position. I had to do this 8-10 times before the rifle started to cock properly.
After about 50 shots, the lever cocking problem returned, and I was unable to cock the gun.
Additionally, while cocking the gun, there was a "roller coaster car" clank-clank-clank noise as the sidelever was pressed (I did not believe this was normal, and this was later confirmed for me).
So, less than 24 hours after receiving the rifle, it's back on its way to RWS for exchange.
Just curious if you had an opinion as to what the problem was. I read all these glowing reviews about the 48, and then -- my luck -- I get the lemon.
Disappointed,
-jp
JP,
I hate it when a new gun isn't right.
The clanking sound is the safety ratchet engaging? Or is it a different sound? The ratchet noise is normal.
Don't know about the other problem, though.
I have never heard of this problem with a 48, but it sounds like the mainspring guide is broken.
B.B.
BB,
Thanks for the ultra-prompt response.
I know zero about the internals of guns, but the clank I was hearing wasn't a single clank. Over the course of a single cocking motion, there were six or seven "clanks" (and not sporadic -- very consistent sounding, and very consistent between each cock of the gun). It was akin to the clanks of a roaster coaster car going up the tracks.
I was accustomed to the smooth "soundless" sound of break-barrel cocking, so while it was a new sound to me, I'd assumed it was normal for the model (though the Umarex rep. indicated otherwise).
It's a bummer -- I just had a Leapers 3-9x40 mil-dot scope zeroed in and (minus the problems) was enjoying the shoot.
Here's to hoping Umarex's turnaround time is swift!
-jp
JP,
The way you describe it, that was the safety ratchet for certain. The button on the side of the action disconnects it so you can close the sliding chamber. Without it if the chamber slipped it could amputate your fingers.
B.B.
BB,
So the series of clanks throughout the cocking stroke is normal? The fellow I spoke with at Umarex indicated that the cocking stroke was effectively silent (other than the final "click" of the spring engaging, maybe?)
Stated differently, when you have cocked 48s in the past, was the cocking stroke notably audible?
JP,
What you may have heard was a dry mainspring that will pop with a twang as the gun cocks. The ratchet does make noise, too.
B.B.
Thanks again for the info. I guess I'll just have to wait and see what RWS sends back and how quickly.
It would be a bigger bummer if I unnecessarily sent a working rifle in for repair -- though I doubt the cocking problem is normal!
Thanks again for your help.
-jp
JP,
The way you described the cocking sounded like a problem to me. The 48 is supposed to cock smoothly all the way.
Just be prepared for some noise. The TX 200 has it, as well.
B.B.
Hi BB -
Did you ever get the opportunity to review the B30? I placed the order w/ Pyramid, but the .22 is on back order. In your opinion, is the RWS 48 worth extra $150?
Thanks! Mike
Mike,
There is something fishy about the B30. It's been backordered for going on one year, now.
I see it on other websites, but some of those dealers will take an order and only inform the customer of a backorder after they have captured the sale.
Does anyone know if the B30 is being delivered in the U.S.?
B.B.
B.B. -
Thanks for your quick response. I'm curious now too...
For backyard pest elimination and some plinking as well, I set a $200 to $300 budget and settled on .22 cal as preferred. Important criteria are accuracy, adequate power for the job, and longevity - I would like to give this to the grandkids one day twenty years from now (God willing!).
I picked the fixed barrel thinking it would be more accurate. Do you have any better suggestions?
Thanks again! Mike
Mike,
The BAM B40 would be ideal, and you would love it. It's on the high end of your budget, but still within your reach.
The Gamo CF-X is another winner and the combo gets you everything you need for $220. Not as accurate as the B40, but very nice, nevertheless.
B.B.
I've had a similar problem intermittantly with my 48 as well. It gets stuck around 85% cocked. You have to pump it to get it to finish cocking. One of the forums there was a post about this being a loose piston rod, and a fix for it (but too complicated for me), and a number of notes about run arounds from the company not fixing the problem.
http://www.straightshooters.com/chat/viewtopic.php?t=3042
I have not tried to contact umarex about fixing the problem, since it only happens once in about 100 shots, and the apparent hassle others have spoken about.
Ozark