RWS Diana 34
by B.B Pelletier
A reader pointed out that I have never looked at the RWS Diana 34 before, so today I will rectify that. I have actually owned a couple of 34s over the years, and I've had both calibers. My time spent with other Diana guns is helpful as well, since things such as triggers and barrels are shared between models.
What IS a Diana 34?
The Diana 34 is an entry-level, German-made Diana breakbarrel spring-piston rifle. It's important that you know this rifle is made in Germany, because in recent years, RWS, like Beeman, has added guns to their lines made in Spain and now China. While the powerplants of guns from those countries might be as good as the lower-cost German guns, the barrels and triggers usually aren't.
Both calibers are good
The 34 comes in both .22 and .177, and, at the power level it achieves, it's good in both calibers. Though it is rated at 1,000 f.p.s. in .177, it actually achieves around 920-950 with light Hobby pellets and in the high 700s with heavier Beeman Kodiaks. That's when the gun is running right. In .22, you'll get velocities in the high 500s/low 600s with heavy pellets and the high 600s/low 700s with light pellets.
It's fairly easy to cock, at just over 30 lbs. of effort when broken in. The trigger is a two-stage adjustable model that can be adjusted for a crisp release. The stock is as plain as a wood stock can get, with just a raised cheekpiece and also a Monte Carlo profile to help scope users. The absence of a rubber buttpad means you must be careful when standing the rifle up on its butt.
The flagship of the Diana line
Diana designed the 34 to be an entry-level air rifle. At the time it was introduced, it had no raised cheekpiece or Monte Carlo profile. There was also a higher-priced model 36 that came with a rubber buttpad, front globe sight with replaceable inserts and a well-profiled stock with checkering. The model 38 was even nicer because it had all of those features plus a walnut stuck. The actions of all three rifles were identical. But, customers voted with their wallets, and only the 34 remains. For many years, it was Diana's best-selling model, and it may still be today.
Scope mounting
The 34 has the same scope-mounting deficiencies that most other Diana guns have, in that there is NO way to anchor a scope mount! You have to use a one-piece scope mount and let the scope stop pin hang down in front of the 11mm dovetail ramp on the receiver, same as for all the Diana sidelevers. That means a portion of the scope mount will hang off the rail at the front, but it's the only safe way to stop the mount from moving under recoil.
A big airgun!
This is a large air rifle, whose dimensions are well-suited to full-grown adults. Don't think of it as a youth gun just because the price is so low. It's the kind of air rifle that can grow with you as time passes. You can start out with just the rifle by itself and shoot for years using the sights that come with it. When the time comes, investing in a tuneup is worth the trouble because both the accuracy and the trigger warrant it. For a scope, I would choose a Leapers 3-9x40mm with a red/green reticle.
One note to owners. If you feel a distinct bump when cocking the rifle toward the end of the stroke, it means the plastic mainspring guide has broken. You can continue to shoot your rifle without damaging it, but your velocity will be lower.
The 34 can do what any of the powerful breakbarrels can. In .22, it's a good hunting gun; in .177 you can use it for field target. It's worth adding a nice scope and shooting premium pellets such as Crosman Premiers (I recommend the 7.9-grain in .177 and the 14.3 grain in .22.) You can also try Beeman Kodiaks and JSB Exacts in both calibers. This rifle is somewhat sensitive to hold as well as hand placement under the forearm. I like putting my open palm under the start of the cocking slot.
I am sorry I didn't get around to this rifle before, but now I have, so it's time for all you owners to chime in and tell the readers what you think of your air rifle.

71 Comments:
BB,
the purpose of a raised cheekpiece is clear, but what is Monte Carlo profile and what is it for?
Markus
The 34 I purchased has detents in three places on the scope mount. I used one of these detents as a scope stop and the scope hasn't budged that I can tell. Over a hundred shots and still dead on (with the exception of my own deficiencies) at 35 yards. Let me know if I'm doing something wrong that may damage the scope or gun.
Also, at those velocities I wouldn't discount the .177 in hunting small game like pigeons at that 35-40 yard range.
Thanks for a great article B.B. I recently purchased the Diana 34 and think it's great. The scope you reccommend, Leapers 3-9x40 AO Mil-Dot Scope with R/G, is the exact scope I'm ordering from Pyramyd Air. I've found the Crosman Premier Hollow Point pellets are great in my rifle but the Crosman Premier Pointed fit too tightly and do not group nearly as well. As the Diana 34 is known to have considerable barrel droop, I was wondering if the B-SQUARE 17101 Interlock AA Air Gun Mount would be a good choice for my rifle/scope combination?
Keith
Hey,
B.B., I was wondering what your thoughts are on the Biakal MP-513. Thats the .22 air rifle they make. I would love a .22 cal airgun for squirrels and such and this one costs about half of what most .22s cost. I was wondering how accurate it was and the approximate velocity (for ft-lbs) it shoots. I was curious to know if it costs half as much becuase it's half as good, or if it's like the izh-61 and is just a really good price on a really good gun. Also, what do you think of the MP-512M, that is a .177 gun but it only costs about 60 dollars. I need a good gun to help teach some people to shoot, but I would prefer not to buy a 500 dollar gun.
Thanks a bunch,
lama
Markus,
The Monte Carlo stock profile is the hump you see in the butt. It also raises the eye to an acceptable level for scope use. It can be used both with and without a raised cheekpiece.
B.B.
Bob,
Those three "detents" you mention are inadequate to stop a scope mount when it wants to move. If they are working for you that's fine, but they are not sufficient to keep most scope mounts from moving rearward under recoil.
And, yes, the 34 is a hunting gun in .177 as long as the shot placement is perfect.
B.B.
Keith,
The B-Square mount you mentioned is exactly what I would use. Don't forget to elevate the FRONT ring at least 1/2 turn, so when the rear ring is elevated by a turn and a half the front ring will be able to tip forward to ease the tension on the scope tube.
B.B.
Lama,
As it turns out, I received a Baikal 513 from Pyramyd Air to test for you! Mine is in .177, but since we know a .22 gains about 20 percent in power with the same powerplant, we should be able to extrapolate the power and therefore the velocity.
Give me a few weeks to test the gun and I'll have a full report for you.
As for your 512 for teaching shooters, I have no experience with that model. I do have experience with the IZH 61, however, and I can tell you that the Russians know how to rifle a barrel. My guess is the 512 is a good one.
B.B.
B.B.
Ok, thanks a lot. Can't wait to see the review on that gun.
lama
Wow! I've never noticed the 513 before I'll be curious to hear your take on that one too. It it's a smooth shooter, and accurate, that would be a heck of a deal!
Anyhow. What makes an entry level airgun like the 34 different than a more expensive model? How do they shave the dollars off (besides the aesthetics of the stock, etc.) Are there plastic parts where a more robust gun would have metal? Is it in the production tolerances?
Hmm...
I have to admit, my only gun is still a pumpmaster 760 from when I was ten. that is soon to be rectified, when the resources are allocated, and the right gun is identified. This blog has been extremely helpful in my learning towards that end! Thanks BB.
-Josh
B.B. im interested in knowing if i am properly storing my airrifle (not long term). when im not using it i keep it in an airglide case. Unfortunatly my parents (im 17 by the way) are loath to turn on the air conditioning even in the most extreme of heat(which is very common here in the midwest)so most of the time my rifle is sitting in its case in an 80F room with an average of 50% humidity. my real consern is the fairly high humidity. so my question is: does keeping my rifle in this environment harm it?
thanks for the advice
scopestop
P.S. feel free to share any other storage tips or tricks you have, ill be happy to recieve them.
Josh,
What makes a bargain airgun cost less than a more expensive model? Well, TIME is the most costly thing. If the factory can spend less human time on a gun, they can sell it for less.
Materials are important, but not to the same extent. In small companies that have gone out of business, it's often because they spent too much time on a product.
And not every product makes an equal percentage for the company. A big seller like the 34 might make less than a slow seller like the 38 I mentioned in the post. The company will be more inclined to make less on each gun but sell more of a budget model. That ends up making them more in the long run.
B.B.
scopestop,
Long-term gun storage is an age-old problem. I remember having to leave my firearms in the U.S. while I was abroad for 4 years. I sprayed them all heavily with WD40, thinking that was a good thing to do. When I returned I found a yellow varnish on everything. It took 20 years to get it all off.
The quick answer for you is to store your airguns in a low humidity environment. I don't like storing in cases because some liners are hygroscopic (they absorb and store moisture from the air). If you have a place like a closet where the rifles can be stood on their butts, that's a good way to store them. A large desiccant cartridge will reduce the humidity in an enclosed space, but you have to service the cartridge according to the instructions.
B.B.
thanks for the advice B.B.
scopestop
Ordered my Leapers 3-9x40 AO Mil-Dot Scope with R/G from PyramydAir today and it's already been processed and shipped! Can't wait till it gets here and see if I can get my dime sized groups with the 34 to shrink a little.
Keith
I recently purchased the Diana 34 along with the B-Square 17101 mount from pyramid air (great service btw). I'm really disappointed in the 17101 mount--after proper mounting and adjusting for barrel droop, the mount became loose after about 15 rounds. The pointed windage screws were indeed set properly into the split-nut dimples.
The use of the jam nuts to secure the gimbal screws seems rather primative..smashing steel against the very fine threads of these screws seems like really lazy design on the part of B-Square. I have a camping trip this weekend, and I'm not looking forward to adjusting this mount after every few shots. There just has to be a better solution than the 17101's. Perhaps the fixed drooper mounts? Please advise.
On another note, I've had some problem with what appears to be misfire with the 34--A loud "Pop!" and the barrel would break without firing the pellet--this is VERY disconcerting to say the least. I was very careful in seating the pellets and snapping the barrel closed--I'm not sure how this could be user error..any thoughts?
Thanks BB for the awesome reviews--I really enjoy the info.
Crimson Sky,
You do have to use the jam screws of the mount won't stay secure. You cannot over-torque those small screws without stripping the sockets, so don't put that much tension on them.
You can try fixed drooper mounts, of course. If you luck into the rigtht ones, they will be fine. But the B-Square AA adjustables properly installed are superior in every way.
The problem you describe with your rifle has the earmarks of a dry-fire. Don't worry, we all do it from time to time. I had one just last week. The gun popping open is a new one, but it leads me to suspect the pivot bolt is not tightened correctly. The barrel should stay where you put in after the gun is cocked. If it flops down, the pivot bolt is too loose.
B.B.
Thanks BB for the fast reply!~ I just tightened the pivot bolt and it seems now to be a much sturdier snap and hold. Thanks! I'll give that 17101 mount another go. I realize that these springers are hellish on mounts and scopes, so we'll see.
Any experience with the Beeman 5039 adjustable?. I've seen these mounts in combo packages with the RWS 350. Cheers and thanks again.
Crimson Sky,
Yes, I've tested the 5039 and it does work without bending the scope tube.
B.B.
Hello B.B. - I am seriously considering buying an air rifle. My wife and I are moving to a more rural location soon and my theory is that I may need some kind of pest control plan. That is what I tell my wife. In reality I have not shot any kind of gun since I was in cub scouts many many years ago. I think I really just want the satisfaction of plinking away in the backyard.
Anyway - I have narrowed down my possible choices to the Diana RWS 34 and the Benjamin 392. (I want to stay in the .22 caliber in case I do actually do get around to hunting rats.) I've read this review and the Benjamin 392 review (and many others). The price difference is not a factor. They both seem by all accounts to be well made, solid wood, "traditional" looking rifles which I like. I understand the difference in the power plants on paper, but I don't know what the difference between a spring and a pneumatic gun would actually feel like. Which one would present the fewest challenges to a complete novice? Both from a learning to shoot and a maintainance standpoint? Is there another gun in this category that I have overlooked?
Many thanks for any insight. And thanks for sharing all your wisdom - these forums are great!
Joe
Joe,
The spring gun is the most difficult of all shooting systems to learn. I definitely recommend the 392!
Get some .22-caliber JSB Exact domed pellets in both weights, and some Beeman Kodiaks.
You will really enjoy this air rifle. And, as my wife is fond of saying, this isn't the last air rifle you will buy.
B.B.
I have an RWS 54 Air King and wondered if you might consider an article on this fine gun?
Refering to the (22 Cal) RWS M34 as a -Entry level rilfe- is so much sales hogwash...It's powerful, accurate, last forever and priced right...Whats missing for a hunting rifle??? TOM
My humble answer to RWS m34 rifle scope mounting...Drill a 3/16 hole about 3/32 deep in the scope rail...to match the lock screw found in the new one piece mount's...Look at a mount and you will understand...My rifle had dimple like holes in the rail already and has worked fine...Yes it hangs over a bit but that is a non rifle problem ...TOM
RWS 54,
I don'thave an Air King to test, and I've never tested one.
Since the only difference between that rifle and the 48/52 is the anti-recoil mechanism, why don't you tell us how well it works. The times I've shot the gun, the anti-recoil didn't work on up or down shots, only those taken with the rifle level. What is your experience with that?
B.B.
I like my RWS 54. It is a heavy gun but it is accentuated with quality. I havn't shot it from any position other than level so I'm not aware of anti-recoil concerns from differing angles. I will check on that, however. It is a powerful airgun, rated at 1100 fps in cal .177. I look forward to the day when you might test it--------------------Thanx--------D.G.
D.G.
Give those other shooting angled a try. Also let us know what you like about it besides the build quality. How well does it group? How powerful is it?
B.B.
I've been messing with the idea of drilling a hole within the last indent on the RWS 34 dovetail rail to accept the stop pin from the B-Square 17101 mount--Thoughts B.B. or anyone else?
My current solution is what you recommended, hanging the pin off the front of the rail.
Crimson Sky,
It's your gun, but it will void your warranty.
B.B.
Thanks for the heads-up. Yikes.
Hi B.B. and All,
At September 01, 2006 7:35 AM, B.B. Pelletier said... scopestop,
Long-term gun storage is an age-old problem. [brevity snip]...
I agree! I've had the same problem with WD-40.
I've been using Break-FreeĀ® "Break-Free CLP" for many years. I also now use their "Collector" and "Lubricant/Preservative" product.
I no longer buy their products packaged in aerosol cans, because in a short time they clog up and then splurt instead of spray. I don't what the deal is... may be it's just me.
The Web site has good amounts of info. and MSDS sheets, so I suggest reading before buying, to see if any of their products may meet your needs.
[http://www.break-free.com/]
No, I'm not a company representative or anything like that... I just like the product.
Cheers,
GH
Crimson Sky,
I have an RWS 34 and a Leapers 5th Gen 3-9x40 AO Mil Dot R/G lighted reticle scope. I tried several mounts (accushot, Gamo, BSA) but the only one that worked for me is the RWS Air Rifle Universal C-Mount.
The one-piece mounts held OK, but they couldn't handle the barrel droop so I needed extra elevation adjustment. The fully adjustable C-mount has worked fine through 1000s of shots. It has a pin which fits in the shallow depressions in the rail, although it may be holding primarily with the compression tightening on the rail. In any case, it doesn't move.
The only thing I didn't like is that there are MANY screws to adjust and get tightened properly. Once I got it right, it has been a perfect combination for the rifle and scope.
Mike in CO
Crimson Sky,
p.s. I got my rifle from Pyramid Air, but they don't sell the C-mount. I got mine from Cabela's for $63.74 plus s&h. Item No. IF22-6410.
Mike in CO
BB I have a few questions
Can this rifle maintain 1 inch groupings after 40 meters?
45-50m?
And I was thinking of changing the spring, if it ever gets broken, or oiling it up once in a while.
Can the rifle be taken apart easily?
thx
The Diana 34 caqn hold a group of one inch at 40 meters if you can. It's very sensitive to hold, as all breakbarrel springers are.
It is not easy to disassemble. Compared to the Beeman R1 I disassembled for this blog, the 34 is twice as hard to take apart.
B.B.
thanks
1" at 40m sounds good
I just found a Diana 34 in my garage. Broke the barrel, load it up, pull the trigger...nothing. So then I read that you had to fold the barrel until you hear a "click." So I fold, and fold, and fold, no clicks. I fold it to the max that it would fold. Still nothing. Any ideas? Thank you.
bam,
The gun is broken. Sounds like a broken spring guide to me.
B.B.
Thank you for the reply.
Where can I buy a new spring guide?
How much would it cost?
How much could I sell it off for in this state?
hey,
my diana 34 .177 air rifle was great, but one day when i went squirrel hunting the barrel got harder and harder to break as the day went on. then just before i was ready to head in i had shot it and when i went to reload, the barrel would not break. i, along with my friends have tried and tried to break the barrel but it simply will not budge. i have no idea what could have caused this and i was wondering if you did and are there any things i can try to fix it??
thanks
Something is very wrong with your rifle, as I have never heard of this before. You need to send it to a repair station. Try
John Groenewold, PO Box 830, Mundelein, IL 60060-0830, (847) 566-2365
B.B.
Ban,
Fopr Diana parts contact RWS USA which is part of Umarex USA.
www.umarexusa.com
A used 34 should bring $80 - $120.
B.B.
bb,
do you think that a .177 breakbarrel at 1000fps could take down a woodchuck thats been ruining my yard?
E.M.
E.M.,
With an accurate head shot, yes, it will do the job.
B.B.
B.B.
I am thinking of getting a pellet gun for my son and the RWS M34 seems like a good one after he had a pump .177. I grew up on .22 and have a .22 pistol. It seems to me that .22 is the right caliber for any pellet gun. Why .177 over .22 or visa versa?
.177 became popular because of the European influence in airguns in the 1960s. The pellets are less expensive, so unless you hunt, they are better for general plinking.
I prefer the .22 as well, because it's easier to load.
B.B.
Ali,
I live in an area with many large sized blackbirds with grey chest-I don't know what you call them in English- and to get rid of these big but cautious pests,I'd like to get an airgun.For me the two options are Diana mod36 and magnum 350. Please advise me if the first option is enough to eliminate the birds in a 30 t0 50 meters distance or I should buy the more expensive one?
Thanks.
Big black bird,
If you are talking about a U.S.-spec Diana 36, it has more than enough power for the birds. Spring guns are difficult to shoot accurately, and breakbarrels, such as the 36 and 350 magnum, are the hardest. Limit your shots to the range at which you can hit a 1" circle every time.
B.B.
I am having the exact same problem as the poster back on Nov. 5 of last year. My RWS 34 was working fine and all of the sudden has become almost impossible to break open. When you hit the barrel it will move just a fraction but will not break open. I did manage to get it open. I shot a few times and the same thing happened again. I just wanted to post this to see if anyone has determined what causes this.
I think you either have a broken mainspring, or a broken spring guide jamming the piston when it's cocked. Both might be broken.
Your rifle needs to be serviced right now.
B.B.
One other thing that can be wrong with these rifles being hard to cock...
I took mine apart when it first started getting hard to cock. There was no lube between the spacer washers and the barrel. The rifle was starting to gall there. Bad mojo.
I bought the rifle used, so I always thought that the previous owner had done it... perhaps not.
I cleaned up the galling (it was very light at this point...) and used some good grease in there.
Is this happening to your rifle?
Hint: Do you see any metal filings or fine metal dust around the barrel pivot mount?
I don't see any of the things you mentioned on my rifle, but a lack of lube in that place isn't good. It's good that you caught it.
B.B.
Hey B.B. and all, Is the mount that comes with the rws combo with the 4x32 scope good or do I need to buy other ones for the barrel droop. It seems like they would work since they are selling them with the gun. I dont want to spend all that extra money on a mount when I know I am already going to buy a better scope like the leapers 5 gen 3x9x50. Can I shim the scope with the mounts that come with the gun to zero the scope or is there a reason why that wont work. My quest 800 had severe barrel droop and then I shimmed the scope with folded electrical tape and that did the trick! Well B.B. so will shimming the scope with the mounts from the combo work instead of buying the adjustable mount? If you dont think it will work than I will probably buy the gamo cfx .22 as I need a good main hunting airgun for a around $250 including scope and mounts! THanks I woul really aprieciate responses!!
The droop on the RWS Diana 34 is so major that I don't think shimming will work in most cases.
The type of scope can make a difference, but until the extent of the droop is known it's impossible to say which scope you need.
B.B.
Anyone have any other reccomendations for a good scope other than the Leapers 3-9x40 AO Mil-Dot Scope? It got a bad review from one user and its scared me off it a bit and wouldent mind spending a bit extra for something with similar specs to suit the RWS C-Mount and this Diana model 34 rifle.
Thanks,
Tim.
Tim,
The AirForce 3-9 X 40 is a good scope.
B.B.
I was really disappointed to hear such a mundane report of the Diana 34 which is such a outstanding brake barrel rifle. Yes, it may be a entry level with the Diana series, it is not a entry level gun! Especially compared to the junk that is out there now. I do not think any brand can touch the quality for the price. The velocity chart of other reviews have gone into great detail with at least 10 different pellets and the 34 was very very close if not better to break barrel rifles in the of the same class to include more expensive Beemans . The rifle is one of the smoothest rifles I have ever shot, and if a rifle did not need a scope it would surly be the 34. The balance is fantastic, and the rifle has a hell of a lot of power. I would not trade the longer barrel, as I feel it really adds to accuracy without the scope. The German guns are a treasure. A gun that can truly last a life time and be handed down with confidence to a younger generation. This gun is a workhorse that shoots straight every time. You did you not mention the "limited life time warranty"? I doubt a gamo, would dare go that extra yard.
JW,
You read the older report but missed the four-part review I did. Go here:
http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2007/07/rws-diana-34-panther-part-4-final.html
B.B.
i have a RWS/Diana air rifle model 28-177 that i want to get fixed does anybody know if i can send it to the manufacturer to get repaired, or where i can send it?
Pyramyd Air, the host of this blog, is the largest American repair center for vintage RWS Diana airguns like yours. They have mountains of parts.
The manufacturer is Diana in Germany. You don't want to send your gun there.
RWS USA is operated by Umarex USA. They can repair some vintage airguns. But Pyramyd Air is the biggest.
B.B.
I called Pyramyd air and the tech recommended the accushot one piece for my model 34 (also getting Leapers 3-9x32). He said that the stop would line up with the holes in the rail. Is this the best option? Also said to put two strips of plastic (like coke bottle) under rear of scope to raise rear. Does this all sound right?
The gun came out of the box with a little trace of rust at the base of the barrel (where it meets a rectangular piece). Does this sound like problems for the future?
Also, I've fired 200+ shots and still can't get good groups. What is the pellet that is usually best for this gun (.177) and is it possible to bench shoot it through some configuration considering the "hold" sensitivity?
Thanks, your great. Long time lurker, first time poster...
I called Pyramyd air and the tech recommended the accushot one piece for my model 34 (also getting Leapers 3-9x32). He said that the stop would line up with the holes in the rail. Is this the best option? Also said to put two strips of plastic (like coke bottle) under rear of scope to raise rear. Does this all sound right?
The gun came out of the box with a little trace of rust at the base of the barrel (where it meets a rectangular piece). Does this sound like problems for the future?
Also, I've fired 200+ shots and still can't get good groups. What is the pellet that is usually best for this gun (.177) and is it possible to bench shoot it through some configuration considering the "hold" sensitivity?
Thanks, your great. Long time lurker, first time poster...
I only recommend the scope mounting technique that I wrote about in this series. You must hang the scope stop pin in front of the scope ramp base or the scope and mount will move. I can't make it any clearer than that.
This was presented in the this section:
http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2007/06/rws-diana-34-panther-part-2.html
As for shimminjg the scope, you can do it, but the amount the 34 neweds may styress the scope tube, as I mention in the blog, I believe. That's why I use an adjustable scdope mount that has gimbal action for the rings, so the tube is never stressed.
B.B.
I purchased the RWS C-mount for my 34 and have to say I am not at all pleased with it. I followed directions and could get no grouping. To follow the instructions it's necessary to keep removing the scope to make an adjustment here or there. Try some shots, take it apart and try again. The fine screws started to strip. What a mess for the price you pay for it!
I recently purchased a model 34 in .177 caliber and heard that as few as 5o shots to as much as 2000 were needed to seat everything for best shooting. Which is correct?
Also, if one puts in a JM kit does this void the warranty?
msheron,
ANY disassembly of an air rifle usually voids the warranty. But if you know how to install a Maccari kit, what do you care? There are no breakable parts that you cannot replace yourself.
Stocks,barrels and spring tubes don't break accidentally.
When I wrote the R1 book, I tested 2 different .22 caliber Beeman R1s for 1,000 shots from new. The bulk of the changes occurred in the first 500 shots.
With other makes, this changes. It took 3,000 to 4,000 shots to break in a Beeman C1. The same caqn be true of a Gamo made in the 1990s and before. But I have found the RWS Diana guns are ready to go pretty soon after you start shooting them.
B.B.
Great gun my first springer bluing,fit and finish german of course. I bought .22cal and like it alot it shoots predators nice infact i just holed out at 30 yards standing lol. Now if i tried to do that again i doubt it. One pellet was crushed other not so im wondering if i broke a spring or something, its got 3000 pellets through and havent lubed yet. Things i dont like weight its heavy with scope.
Also if scoping your going to need accushot medium one piece one inch tube for 40mm scope,loc tight, one inch zip tie to shim scope. Barrel drop is extreem on rws breakers shimming a must. Locktight every bolt on the gun trust me they get loose easy including the scope bolts clean off grease!
Is there any rubber buttpad thatwill fit on the Diana Model 34? if so where can I get to purchase it ( model number if possible).
Regards
Sheriff
Sheriff,
Any competent gunsmith can install a generic rubber buttpad on a 34 that has a wooden stock. It's just like working on any firearm. The pad would come from Brownells and be a generic size to fit all long guns.
B.B.
Hi @ all you airriflers,
I own a .22 Diana 34 and i mounted a gamo sporter 3-9X32 on it the mount is a 2 pieced one . And so far after approx 1000 rounds ,it hasn't moved so far , what i did do before i mounted the scope is that i carefully degreased the mounts aswell as the dovetail with "aceton".
greetz Edwin
Flanders (Belgium)
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