Thursday, March 31, 2005

My top 5 pellets

By B.B. Pelletier

Okay, these are MY picks. You don't have to agree. But some people might like to hear what someone else thinks.

Pellet No. 5 - RWS Hobby
Hobby is the German codeword for cheap. RWS Hobbys aren't cheap, but they are good! I like them for plinking in most airguns. And I like them in either caliber. They come in both .177 and .22. I think RWS makes Hobbys just a little better than their price reflects.

Hobbys are especially good in lower-powered airguns. If you have an air pistol or a weaker spring rifle, this might be the pellet to jazz things up.

Pellet No. 4 - Crosman Premier
That's ANY Premier in the cardboard box. ANY caliber, and they come in three of the four smallbore calibers, with two weights in .177.

I also like Premiers in round tins. They are less expensive that way. And let's be honest - Benjamin Sheridan Diabolo pellets are Premiers by another name and just as good. The pellets in the tins don't get packed by lot, or at least it's not stamped on the tins, but they still shoot very well.

With Premiers you do need to sort by weight and discard the light ones. And they do lead the bore if shot too fast. Otherwise, this is a wonderful pellet.

Pellet No. 3 - H&N Match
Accurate, accurate! I only have experience with the .177 Finale Match high speed; but with the H&N reputation for quality, I bet the .22 and .25 calibers are just as good. These also make good critter-busters at close range. I like the high speed best, but I don't have as much experience with the low speed. And, you can choose head size with this brand, though I always go with 4.51 unless I know a good reason to try something else.

Pellet No. 2 - Beeman Kodiak/H&N Baracuda
Beeman Kodiak pellets or H&N Diabolo Baracuda used to be numero uno. They're heavy in all calibers, so they'll slow down those overly powerful guns so they can do good things. And, these are pure lead and very uniform.

Pellet No. 1 - the BIG KAHUNA - JSB Diabolo Exact
This is the best hunting and all-around pellet I've ever seen. Forget deviation - there seems to be none! I think they must hand-sort them, but what do they do with the tons of rejects? Melt them? I think not. Apparently, Mr. Bohumin has found a better way to make pellets. This pellet in .22 caliber has no equal that I know of.

Them's my picks. Tell me yours.

Wednesday, March 30, 2005

Which caliber is best for you? .177? .22?

By B.B. Pelletier

I really don't have to write this report; Pyramyd Air already has a whole article on the subject of pellet calibers. After reading that article, though, I thought I'd add my two cents.

I agree with the author, Tom Gaylord, that .177 caliber is best if you just want to shoot a lot and you want to save money on pellets. A tin can doesn't know the difference between being hit by an 8-grain wadcutter from a .177 and a 14.5-grain round nose from a .22. The .22 smacks harder, but if hitting is all you're after, go .177 and save money.

Speaking of saving, are you guys taking advantage of the pellet special on Pyramyd's site? They offer four tins or boxes of pellets for the price of three. This is their message and I think it's on every page selling pellets: Buy 4 tins of pellets and one of them will be FREE! One of 4 pellet tins in your shopping cart will always be FREE. 9mm, 0.45 and 0.50 pellets are excluded from the promotion. I would take advantage of that one every time!

I'm a hunter, so I like .22 caliber airguns. I also like .25 caliber in a powerful gun, though I admit that the pellets are much more expensive. I think it really delivers the knockdown power I need - even more than a .22. My ideal hunting airgun is the Webley Patriot in .25 caliber.

But, between .177 and .22, I tend to go with the .22 more often because of the type of shooting I do. My pellets do cost more, but I buy so many at one time that I don't think about it the rest of the time. Imagine what you'd pay if you were shooting a firearm!

Now, here's a crock that's been passed around for too many years. Some people say a .177 is more accurate than a .22, to which I reply, "Bullfeathers!" Prove it! They can't! To my knowledge, there's never been a test published that proves any caliber is more accurate than another. People just like to talk, and I guess this provides some of the fodder.

"But they shoot .177s in the Olympics!" Yes and they drive Formula Three race cars in Europe and NASCARs here in America. So what? There is NOTHING about one caliber that makes it inherently more accurate than another - I don't care what anyone says.

If you're going to use your gun to shoot targets or plink, pick .177. If you intend to hunt with the gun, get a .22 caliber. If you are a really serious airgun hunter, consider a big .25-caliber rifle, as well. But whatever you do, do what seems right to you. All airgun calibers are good because they all work in airguns!

Tuesday, March 29, 2005

Should you buy a hand pump for your airgun?

By B.B. Pelletier

Filling a precharged pneumatic is easy when you use a scuba tank. What about using a hand pump? You'll hear all sorts of conflicting reports about hand pumps, and it's difficult to know what to believe, so I thought I'd take a stab at it.

Are hand pumps reliable? Yes, they are IF you don't rush them! Their makers tell you to pump for a maximum of five minutes, then let the pump cool. I've found this to be good advice. If you just keep pumping, any hand pump available today will fail in a very short time. If you stick to five-minute sessions, it will last for many years.

How hard is it?
The higher you go, the harder it becomes. Any average adult should be able to pump up to 1,500 pounds per square inch (psi) with one hand! That's anyone! From 1,500 psi to 2,000 psi, the pumping is easy, but it may take both hands. From 2,000 to 2,500, the effort starts to increase, but most adults should be able to do it with no trouble. However, from 2,500 psi to 3,000 psi, a hand pump is difficult to operate.

When the pumping effort becomes hard for you, you can stop pumping with your arms and let your entire body weight do the work by doing deep knee bends. That is a well-known pumping technique. But people weighing less than 150 pounds may find at some point that their entire body weight cannot make the pump handle go down all the way.

One more bit of advice; go all the way with the pump handle on both the upstroke and the downstroke. The pump does most of its work in the final inch of travel in both directions.

How many pumps?
How many pumps it takes to fill a gun will vary with the size of the gun's air reservoir. A BSA Hornet has a tiny 75cc reservoir that fills very fast, while an AirForce Talon SS has a huge 490cc reservoir that fills slower. BUT, and this is an important point, you get more shots from a larger reservoir. In other words, the BSA may give you 20 shots at a certain power level while the Talon SS gives you 40 shots at a higher power level! So, consider what you get from each gun.

As it turns out, it takes pretty close to the same amount of air to deliver the same power from all precharged airguns of similar caliber. One gun may be a little more efficient than another if it has a longer barrel or perhaps a more efficient valve, but the rule of thumb with hand pumps is that they take one to three pump strokes per shot they deliver from any smallbore air rifle.

Pumping big bores is harder!
One BIG departure from everything I've said so far are the large bore precharged guns. That's anything over .25 caliber. The big guns give from two to ten shots per fill, and they take just as many pumps to refill as the smallbores. Most shooters prefer to use a scuba tank to fill the big guys, but a hand pump allows you to go hunting without dragging that heavy tank along.

I'll leave you with this: if you can follow the rules and let your pump cool between sessions, get a hand pump. If you are an impatient fellow, avoid hand pumps at all costs!

Monday, March 28, 2005

Important! How to find your way around and leave messages

By B.B. Pelletier

We had a comment TODAY that was bumped off the active list by THIS message! It occurred to me that I should tell you guys how this Blogger software seems to work, so we can talk to each other.

First, at the bottom of THIS MESSAGE there is a comment counter and an icon of an envelope with an arrow in it. If you put your cursor on the comment counter and click on it, a window opens for YOU to leave a message.

You MAY have to open that window larger by clicking on the lower right corner and dragging it down until you see the button marked Login and Publish. Once you are satisfied with your message, click this button to leave your comment.

I will leave a comment at the bottom of THIS message for you to read.

What people have been doing is scrolling down to the LAST MESSAGE that can be seen and leaving their messages THERE. Once I post the next day's message, it bumps their comment off the active list and you can't see what they have asked. Bummer!

What prompted this special message was a comment we got TODAY from a reader asking why I haven't written about the Sheridan Blue Streak. Well, I did write about the Blue Streak in the very first message, but that was on March 1 and it has been bumped off the list.

HERE IS THE WAY TO FIND THAT FIRST MESSAGE!

Look at the BOTTOM of the list of reports at the right side of this message. TODAY ONLY, it says "Synthetic skirts, steel tips and other pellet oddities" Tomorrow, it will say "Become a better shot!" because tomorrow's posting will bump today's last posting off the list. Got it, so far?

If you click on the oldest title on the right of this page, you'll be taken to that posting, and the list on the right OF THAT POSTING will reflect what was current ON THAT DAY!

That's how you can get back to the first posting on the Sheridan Blue Streak. It's not straightforward, but right now it's the only way you can see the posts that have been bumped off the list. Good luck.

Friday, March 25, 2005

Everything you need to know about airsoft BBs

By B.B. Pelletier

Airsoft guns (or soft air or whatever else they may be called) owe a large part of their "soft" performance to the ammunition they shoot - 6 millimeter balls that the industry now calls "BBs." They're not the same as steel BBs used by conventional BB guns. Airsoft BBs are usually plastic and sold and used according to their weight.

Grams vs. grains
The weight for an airsoft BB is listed as a fraction of a gram rather than a grain weight, which is how airgun pellets are stated. There are 7,000 grains in a pound, but only 454 grams in the same pound. Therefore, one gram weighs about 15.43 grains.

Airsoft BB weights are stated as a fraction of a gram. The lightest is 0.12 grams, and then the weights jump to 0.20 grams, 0.25 grams and so on. All these different weight BBs are the same 6mm size, so the varying weights come from different compositions.

Increase your fun with aluminum, biodegradable & tracer BBs
Some airsoft BBs are made of aluminum and are very heavy, others are environmentally friendly and biodegradable, and still others glow in the dark and create a realistic tracer effect when shot at night. Several companies are developing airsoft paintball BBs, though the technology is not quite where it needs to be for reliable operation in automatic electric guns (AEGs) or reliable breakage on target.

The lightest BBs are used in inexpensive spring guns such as the Daisy Airstrike 240, which shoots at a lower velocity. The 0.20-gram BB can be used in gas guns, such as the M9 Tactical Master, and more powerful electric guns, such as the DPMS Panther A-15. In fact, 0.20-gram BBs may be the most common weight used. That said, there are still plenty of guns that shoot best with other weight BBs. Check the gun's box and owner's manual to find the right weight BB.

Why Hop Up increases accuracy
Most airsoft guns have some sort of Hop Up mechanism to assist with accuracy. Hop Up imparts a backspin on the BB as it leaves the gun. Without it, BBs fly erratically; with it, they fly relatively straight and do not fall quickly. In the more expensive guns, Hop Up is often adjustable, so you can experiment with several BB weights.

If you use the wrong weight BB in a gun that can't be adjusted, it will not be nearly as accurate as it would with the right one. Read the instructions and don't improvise unless you have an adjustable gun.

Thursday, March 24, 2005

Another cause of scope shift: over-adjusted scope knobs

By B.B. Pelletier

In my March 14 report, What causes scope shift?, I promised to return to some of the other causes of scope shift. One more way to acquire scope shift is when either one of your scope knobs is adjusted out too far, allowing the reticle to flop around.

How your knobs got over-adjusted
Inside the scope tube, the reticle is housed in a smaller tube called the erector tube, which rests on springs that are on the opposite side of the windage and elevation knobs. When you adjust the elevation knob "down," you are actually applying pressure to one side of the erector tube, which compresses the spring on the opposite side. If you adjust either knob as far as it will go, the spring either becomes bound up and refuses to move, or it becomes so relaxed that the adjustment knob starts feeling mushy and indistinct.

When the adjustments feel mushy, the spring that pushes against the erector tube is relaxed and not able to keep proper tension on the tube. A bump to the rifle or even regular recoil can push the erector tube to a different spot - and you end up with scope shift! Some scopes are designed to minimize this problem - but yours may not be, so keep scope knobs fairly well centered (up/down and left/right).

Get more out of your scope without risking scope shift
How do you get on target without using the scope's adjustment knobs? Use an adjustable scope mount! It lets you zero a scope without using its internal adjustments. When you want to make small changes, you'll have the scope's entire adjustability available.

Adjustable scope mounts are more difficult to set up initially. Once they've been properly adjusted, the scope is far easier to use - you put in time up front to save time later. If you don't want to remount all your scopes, follow my rule of thumb: use adjustable mounts on your most precise airguns and fixed mounts on guns used for more general shooting.

Wednesday, March 23, 2005

How, when & why to lube your spring gun's piston seals

By B.B. Pelletier

You've asked about proper lubes for spring-piston guns, so I thought I'd offer some pointers.

Spring-gun piston seals are either leather or synthetic. It matters because there are different lubes for different materials. It isn't always easy to tell what's in your gun, so this may involve some research.

The gun's owner's manual is the best resource to consult about oiling, however most gun makers only recommend their own brand of oil and don't tell you what type oil is inside. So here are some tips for when you just don't know.

When in doubt, use silicone chamber oil
For most spring-gun seals, either leather or synthetic, silicone chamber oil is an ideal lubricant. It works best when used sparingly (one or two drops) in guns that have synthetic seals. RWS/Diana guns need one drop every 2,000 to 3,000 shots. Gamo airguns can tolerate a bit more - perhaps a drop every 1,000 shots or so. The models sold today don't really need that much. Other gun brands should get a drop every year or so.

Leather seals in spring guns need a lot more oil to stay flexible. RWS/Diana guns of the 1970s (models 25, 27, 35 and 45 rifles) as well as most other 1960s-vintage German and English spring guns can use 5-10 drops of silicone chamber oil every 500 shots or every six months.

Lower-powered guns with leather seals, such as the youth models made in the 1950s and '60s, can actually use regular petroleum oil. If you aren't sure of the gun's age or the piston-seal material, silicone chamber oil still works okay. Sparingly lube the synthetic seals of spring guns, but use a little more on spring-gun leather seals - and a little more often, too.

Use oil ONLY - and nothing else!
Do not use anything but oil in spring guns. Don't use moly, regardless of what you read. Moly that is suspended in solvents will diesel and may damage your gun!

Do NOT try to make spring guns diesel! Internal combustion fuels - diesel, kerosene and similar ones - will explode in a spring gun, causing SERIOUS HARM to the shooter! Even petroleum oil can diesel in a powerful gun! If it explodes, it can cause gun damage and possibly injure the shooter and those standing nearby.

Some target spring guns, such as the FWB model 300 rifle and model 65 pistol, have seals that self-lubricate and do not require any additional attention. Just shoot and enjoy.

Old gun won't spit out a pellet? Rejuvenate it with oil!
When a gun with leather seals won't shoot a pellet out the muzzle, put 10 drops of silicone oil down the muzzle and stand the gun with its muzzle pointed up for two hours. The oil runs down the barrel, through the air transfer port and into the compression chamber, where it soaks into the leather seal. Usually, this rejuvenates the gun.

If your gun is spitting any sort of material into the barrel, STOP SHOOTING IMMEDIATELY! That material is the piston seal breaking up and being expelled through the transfer port. Repair it before shooting the gun again.

Tuesday, March 22, 2005

Three types of pneumatic airguns: multi-pump, single-stroke and precharged

By B.B. Pelletier

Pneumatic guns have been around for over 100 years. But, today's pneumatics are a far cry from their forefathers, as they offer a wide selection of brands, calibers and velocities. Oh, yes, they offer one more thing - extreme accuracy!

A pneumatic gun propels a projectile with compressed air stored in the gun. There are three main types of pneumatics - precharged, multi-pump and single-stroke.

The convenience of precharged pneumatics - fill once, shoot a lot!
A precharged gun has a sizeable air reservoir or tank built into the gun that is filled with air from a compressor, manual pump or scuba tank. It's shot many times before it needs to be refilled. Target guns such as the Avanti XS40 Valiant target rifle from Daisy gets up to 80 shots per fill. Sporting rifles such as the FX2000 can get as many as 60 shots before needing a refill. The powerful AirForce Condor only gets about 20 full-power shots because it uses so much air to generate its incredible power.

Multi-pump pneumatics have a built-in pump
Lots of airgunners like the multi-pump pneumatic because its air reservoir is filled with a built-in air pump. To fill the gun with compressed air, you work the pump handle one or more times. Because it's a multi-pump, you usually give it more than one pump for each shot. This type of pneumatic has lots of fans because you don't have to take any other equipment with you - it's all built into the gun!

A popular multi-pump rifle is Crosman's 760 Pumpmaster air rifle, while the Benjamin HB22 is a great multi-pump air pistol.

Single-stroke pneumatics are extremely accurate
Single-strokes are just that - pneumatic guns that are pumped just one time for each shot. In fact, if you try to pump its mechanism a second time, it releases the stored air from the first pump! These are excellent target guns because they have remarkable consistency from shot to shot, which explains why they were once the favorite guns of Olympic airgun shooters. Keep in mind that there are variations on this type of mechanism. For instance, Pyramyd Air describes this as a "single pump" gun. I've seen other ways of describing the single-stroke pneumatic, so be on the look out for those and understand they're all talking about the same thing.

Daisy's 840C Grizzly is an example of a single-stroke air rifle, and the Russian IZH 46M target pistol is one of today's best values in a single-stroke air pistol.

What's the best pneumatic?
Each type of pneumatic airgun has its pros and cons, but precharged airguns are tops on my list because they're easier to use. I like the idea of doing all the charging work at one time and then firing them over and over before they need a refill. They're usually filled from scuba tanks, though electric compressors and hand pumps are also available.

When you want the best airgunning has to offer, think about getting a pneumatic!

Monday, March 21, 2005

Airgun lubes - the good, the bad and the ugly

By B.B. Pelltier

Lubricating an airgun is necessary, yet it can be tricky at the same time. Let me give you some of my thoughts.

To begin with, airguns are often made of different materials than firearms, so just cleaning and lubricating them with the same products you use on the rest of your guns is not a good idea. You probably already know that O-rings and other synthetic seals may be sensitive to gun solvents, but did you know there are certain airgun METALS that are also sensitive?

Stay away from ammonia!
Ammonia will attack and dissolve aluminum parts. Some airguns, most notably those from AirForce, like their popular Talon SS, have lots of aluminum parts in them. Many other rifles and pistols have aluminum parts but do not advertise it. Were you also aware that many gun cleaning solvents, such as Sweets 7.62, contain a lot of ammonia? And, military rifle bore cleaner is also loaded with ammonia.

Airguns have no combustion and usually do not shoot copper-sheathed bullets, so they don't get the same corrosive deposits that firearms do. So, it isn't necessary to clean their barrels with nitro- or copper-dissolving compounds.

Avoid WD-40
Okay, them's fightin' words! Everybody likes WD-40 for the shine it puts on blued metal and for its pleasant aroma. Yes, that's all true, but if you allow it to dry on things, it leaves a gummy film that can take weeks of hard work to remove. It has no place in airgunning.

Use silicone oil - wisely
Silicone oil, such as Crosman silicone oil, is an airgunner's mainstay. It seals the pistons in spring guns and seals everything in pneumatics and CO2 guns. But, most airgun-grade silicone oil isn't very good at lubricating metal-to-metal joints.

That's not to say ALL silicone oils are poor metal lubricants. And, when used on synthetics that ride on metal, like some O-rings, silicone oil and grease may be best for the job. Thoroughly read the manufacturer's recommendations to know what works and what doesn't.

What about moly?
Over the past 15 years, lubricants containing molybdenum disulphide, or moly, have really blossomed in the shooting sports. Moly is a compound that forms a bond with most steels, making a slick surface that doesn't wear away. It's always best when adhering to metal in its dry state, where the grease that's often compounded with it as a carrier does not remain on the surface. Unfortunately, many shooters are not aware of that.

Moly is very slick, but it can be hindered by its own carrier grease or oil. If the surface to which it is applied has extremely close tolerances, such as in triggers and some firing mechanisms, moly grease will actually slow things down and bind them from operating correctly.

On certain jacketed bullets in firearms, moly performs wonders, making the bore ultra-slick after long use. When applied to pure lead projectiles such as pellets, where the lead has great lubricity of its own, moly coatings are often a waste of time.

There are many more lubricants and applications I want to cover with you in the future. Until then, read the package carefully.

Friday, March 18, 2005

How to shim a scope

By B.B. Pelletier

When a scope will not adjust far enough to get the pellet on target, some shooters shim it by adding thin material inside the scope rings or under the mounts, where they connect to the gun's receiver. Other times, your scope barely adjusts to the aim point, and you want a little adjustment room for corrections - and shimming works for that, too.

A shim is a piece of material added at a critical point to realign something. If you have ever put a folded piece of paper or cardboard under the leg of a table or chair to keep it from wobbling, you have used a shim.

Move the scope to move the pellet
Move the rear of the scope up to raise the strike of the pellet downrange. Think about it - you can't really move the front of the scope down, can you? To get a better appreciation of what I'm talking about, read the article about mounting a scope.

To make the strike of the pellet go down, raise the front of the scope. It's just the reverse of raising the rear.

The most common thing is for the pellet to strike too low. That has to do with the barrel's alignment relative to the scope base on the gun. So, most of the time the shim will be added to the rear ring or under the rear mount. But you have to use two-piece mounts to shim the rear mount. If you try to shim under the rear of a one-piece mount, you'll make it harder for the dovetail to grab the grooves on the rifle.

Shimming can bend your scope tube!
A little shimming may fix the problem, but too much can bend your scope tube! The rings are made to align with each other so the thin aluminum scope tube is held tight and straight. When one ring is shimmed higher than the other, or when one end of the scope is raised by shimming, the scope tube will be put under stress as the caps are tightened. A few thousandths of an inch may not matter, but thicker shims will cause so much misalignment that the thin scope tube will be dented when the caps are tightened.

So, if you shim, don't get carried away. Most airgunners use 35mm film as shim stock. One thickness is about all you should use, though if you don't tighten the scope ring caps too much you can get away with two thicknesses.

Adjustable mounts are better than shimming
Shimming may save time and money, but in the end adjustable scope mounts are a better solution. Several firms make them and some are more successful than others. The absolute best design is from B-Square and goes by the trade name AA adjustable scope mounts. There are many variations of AA mounts to fit specific air rifles, but they all share two things. They have gimbaled rings that cannot cause torsional stress on scope tubes, and they adjust in both directions. Most other adjustable scope mounts adjust for elevation, alone.

Thursday, March 17, 2005

A serious springer for serious airgunning

By B.B. Pelletier

What IS a serious springer? With precharged guns selling so well these days, can any springer be a serious contender?

I think so. Spring guns may not be as powerful as precharged guns, and they do require more technique to shoot accurately, but they also need less in the way of support. You aren't tethered to a scuba tank or pump for your power. The spring has all the power you need for thousands of shots.

RWS Diana model 52 is a hard gun to beat!
Now, I'm not saying this is the absolute BEST spring air rifle out there, but the RWS Diana model 52 is a hard gun to beat. It's been around for about two decades. When it first appeared, it set velocity records in .177. It was the world's first 1,100 f.p.s. air rifle.

Most shooters don't want supersonic velocities in their pellet rifles, but the 52 and its somewhat cheaper cousin, the model 48, can launch heavy .177 Beeman Kodiak or Crosman Premier 10.5-grain pellets at a respectable speed in the 900s. But, .177 isn't my choice for this gun. I think .22 is where it's at.

How to send pellets screamin' downrange!
A model 52 in .22 caliber gets up to about 23 ft.-lbs. of muzzle energy, which is a screamin' medium-weight pellet or a heavy Kodiak clippin' along smartly in the low 700s. Hunters love that kind of power. So do plinkers, 'cause that big pellet slams into a can and sends it flying!

Two things you may not know about the 52. It's very easy to cock for its power, and it has very little vibration when it fires. Once it's broken-in after several hundred shots, the 52 is smooth and crisp.

Some powerful springers are very sensitive as to how they're held, but the 52 is not. Oh, it responds best to a light, soft hold, but it isn't as touchy as some others about where you place your hands.

Kick it up a notch with a .25-caliber 52
Did I mention that it's also available in .25 caliber? It has enough power for the quarter-inch bore, though not much is lost when you shoot a .22 with heavy pellets. My pick for a .25-caliber pellet is the mid-weight Diana Magnum. It's uniform and weighs 21 grains, giving you good velocity from spring guns like the model 52.

In the .22-caliber rifle, the Beeman Kodiak is best. It weighs the same as the Diana Magnum and produces just about the same power. Shooting .177? Use Kodiaks or Crosman Premier 10.5-grain pellets. You can use the lighter 7.9-grain Premier, too, but with the higher velocity it will get in a model 52, you'll be flirting with the sound barrier.

What NOT to do with your spring gun
Don't over-lubricate your compression chamber. With some spring guns you can get away with lubricating every 1,000 shots or so, but Diana uses a special synthetic piston seal material that hardly needs any lubricant at all. Maybe put a drop of silicone chamber oil in the transfer port every two years.

Don't adjust the trigger down to a half-pound pull weight. Diana has made the trigger as safe as they possibly can, but it needs more resistance to be dependable. I would keep it above two pounds.

Don't shoot ultra-light .177 pellets in an attempt to break the sound barrier. Yes, the gun will do it, but a lightweight pellet won't slow the piston enough to protect it from slamming into the end of the compression chamber. You risk breaking the mainspring when you shoot pellets that are too light.

The RWS Diana model 52 sidelever is a classic air rifle that has been proven through decades of use. It represents great value for the money and is still a very innovative design, even today.

Wednesday, March 16, 2005

"Become a better shot!"

By B.B. Pelletier

"Become a better shot!" was Gamo's ad copy a few years ago. They meant that by shooting an airgun (hopefully, one of theirs) you would learn to shoot better in general. It sounds like advertising hype, but it isn't. Airguns do improve your shooting for many reasons.

Practice still makes perfect: shoot more to shoot better
There's a good reason Olympic shooters throw so much lead downrange - they can't hope to win a medal if they don't put tens of thousands of pellets through their guns. It's no different for you.

Airguns offer the greatest opportunity to shoot more often because you can shoot in very confined places - like your living room. Imagine popping off a few rounds from a .22 long rifle in your living room! You won't disturb the rest of your family while firing round after round with your airgun. Hey, they might even want to join in the fun! Besides being quieter than firearms, airguns are much safer and don't require special ventilation. If your living room isn't big enough, use a long hallway or go to the basement, attic or garage.

The ideal setup is a good pellet trap and a low-powered airgun. I prefer single-stroke pneumatics, such as the Webley Nemesis or Beeman P3. They're louder than spring guns but quite a bit more accurate. An added bonus is their lack of significant recoil, making them easier to control. When you shoot indoors, control is a big concern.

If you want to shoot a rifle, consider the Avanti 853C by Daisy. It's also a single-stroke and capable of hair-splitting accuracy. As far as I'm concerned, the 853C has the edge over the standard 853 because it has a five-shot magazine - but it's just as accurate. You can save a few bucks with the single-shot. Read my post on The accurate airgun for more great guns for indoor shooting.

If you shoot a BB gun, such as the Daisy Avanti Champion 499, use a proper BB trap - NOT a steel pellet trap. Steel BBs bounce back and need the right trap to catch and hold them. I prefer Crosman's model 850 BB trap, which I've used for about five years. As long as you don't shoot any powerful pellet guns into it, it'll last almost forever.

Follow-through is true for golf, baseball AND airguns!
A pellet or BB remains in the barrel for a long time after the trigger does its job. If you don't keep the sights exactly on target, your groups will suffer.

Follow-through makes a good pellet gun shooter a better shot than a good firearm shooter. Firearms shooters have all but forgotten follow-through because their bullets get out of the barrel so fast. Only the rimfire guys have anywhere near the discipline of a good airgun shooter.

So, there you have it - shoot an airgun and you will "become a better shot!"

Tuesday, March 15, 2005

Synthetic skirts, steel tips and other pellet oddities

By B.B. Pelletier

Have you ever wondered about those "funny" pellets? You know which ones I mean. Some have synthetic skirts, while others have steel embedded in the body of the pellet. Let's take a look at these odd pellets and some of the other unexpected configurations.

Skirting the issue of synthetics
Synthetic skirts on pellets were pioneered by the British to increase velocity in any airgun. Over the years, they've been refined and are now quite good. They're still not as accurate as top-quality lead pellets, but you might want to give them a try to see how they perform in your guns. They just might shoot better than the pellets you currently use. If you'd like to read more about velocity and pellets, here's an article with some interesting info.

Skenco is a U.S. brand of pellets with synthetic skirts. They have several styles and calibers. When you select the type you want, remember that they don't fit in certain airgun magazines. Shooters often buy them to speed up slower guns, which may be the very ones they don't fit!

Tips about steel and synthetic tips
Then, there are pellets with steel tips in the nose. Their makers advertise them as hunting pellets, but they can over-penetrate the animal and not transfer their energy like a lead pellet. And, they tend to be less accurate than pellets with synthetic skirts. Velocity and penetration are their chief features. Depending on your range and the size game you hunt, higher velocity combined with greater penetration could still work to your advantage. A bit of experimentation on the practice range will help you decide if this type of pellet works well for you.

Another oddity is the lead hollowpoint with synthetic tip, which helps expansion and aerodynamics. This one is new to the field and early tests I've done show it's very accurate for a hollowpoint, which is traditionally the least accurate pellet shape. If you hunt, try these.

Is there such a thing as a safer pellet?
Finally, there are non-toxic pellets advertised as lead-free! That's supposed to make you believe lead pellets are toxic. They are if you eat them, or if you don't wash your hands after handling them; but lead pellets have been around for over a century and are definitely NOT dangerous when reasonable care is used. My blood lead level was tested, and I am well below the national average - despite the fact that I shoot pure lead pellets all the time. But, lead may be toxic to someone other than the shooter. Years ago, I met a man who found his two-year-old son picking up stray pellets from the floor and eating them like candy! There's a case where lead-free pellets are an excellent idea, although I'm not sure I'd want a child eating even lead-free ones.

So, what good are funny pellets? To have fun with, of course! Buy them. Shoot them. But, read before you buy so you know the best ways to use them and what you can expect when it comes to accuracy and velocity.

Drop me an email and tell me how they work for you. I'm here to help you get the most from your airguns!

Monday, March 14, 2005

What causes scope shift?

By B.B. Pelletier

Scope shift is a term that describes the movement of a gun's zero over time. While the gun remains very accurate, the point of impact changes location so you don't know where the first shot will go. That's frustrating for hunters and anyone who just wants to shoot and not fiddle with their scope adjustments. Lots of things can cause this, including:

• Shooting at different ranges
• Cant
• Loose scope mounts
• Loose erector tube inside the scope
• Hold (where the sighting eye is placed)
• Scope power adjustment
• Sloppy shooting technique

This is a long list, so we'll tackle some of these issues in another message. Let's start with shooting at different ranges. The pellet’s location will go up and down as the range changes, but, when we sight in, we try to pick the pellet’s most likely spread of ranges at the point of aim. Learn more about this in the sighting in a scope article.

Do your groups move to the right? Or left?
Unless your scope is optically centered, the aim point can easily drift right to left (or vice-versa) as distances change. At 10 yards the pellets may land an inch below the aim point - which you would expect - and a half-inch to the right - which you wouldn't. Without changing the scope's zero, the pellets may be dead-on at 25 yards and an inch to the left, as well as the expected inch low at 40 yards!

That right-to-left movement of the groups IS NOT scope shift, although many shooters think their scopes are to blame. To correct this problem, use adjustable scope mounts and optically center your scope. B-Square is the top producer of adjustable scope mounts and has many different models of their AA mounts for different air rifles. Optical centering needs a whole message of its own, so I will save it for later.

What about cant?
Cant is the unintentional tilting of the rifle when shooting. If the rifle is zeroed while level, but then canted to the right, your shots will land low and to the right. At 50 yards your group could move three inches to either side of the center point!

To eliminate cant, mount a scope level on your rifle and center the bubble before you take each shot. I recommend the B-Square bubble level that sticks out to the side. It may look odd, but it's the only one you can see while sighting through the scope. Put it far enough in front of your eye so you can see the bubble with your non-sighting eye.

I'll review each of the other causes for so-called scope shift in a later message. Until then, keep 'em in the ten-ring!

Friday, March 11, 2005

A gift from B.B.! - The IZH 61 air rifle

By B.B. Pelletier

Here is a gift from me to you. It's not a physical thing, just information; though, if you act on my suggestion, it will become very real for you.

My gift is the IZH 61 air rifle. If you already have one, you're nodding your head in agreement. If you don't have one yet, you should think about correcting that deficiency real soon.

Why this one over any other? Accuracy! Price! Features out the wazoo include two kinds of rear sights (peep and sporting), a globe front sight with interchangeable elements, adjustable trigger, adjustable stock, EASY cocking and it's a five-shot repeater! Best of all, it has a super Russian barrel, and the Russians are one people who know how to rifle barrels. By just telling your airgunning buddies about the IZH 61, you could score more points than Shaq on a good night.

Olympic accuracy for under $100?
This little sidelever spring is nearly as accurate as a $2,000 Olympic target rifle. Unfortunately, the 61 is also dog-ugly and could turn you off if looks are important. Several years ago I read an article about a guy who bought a 61 for under a hundred bucks and dolled it up with Olympic rifle sights and a full-featured target-style laminated stock! Those things set him back more than $500, or so the story went. The thing is, the gun was so darned accurate that it was worth it!

It's like those Hondas that guys soup up to bury muscle cars. Of course, with $20,000 or more invested in the engine and a nitrous oxide injector you would expect them to. And, so it goes with the IZH 61, only you don't have to do anything beyond buying the gun and shooting it.

Here is a tip for new owners. Just take the gun out of the box and shoot it! You can read a ton of so-called improvements on any of the chat forums, but you don't need them to shoot like a champ. Simply load the five-shot magazine with good target pellets and shoot, shoot SHOOT!

For my money, the IZH 61 is one of the most value-packed airguns available today.

Thursday, March 10, 2005

B.B.'s treasure chest - Sorting pellets for accuracy

By B.B. Pelletier

Sorting pellets is a key to accuracy. It doesn't matter which pellet you use, sorting them will result in tighter groups.

What do you look for when sorting? For starters, look for all irregular pellets. That includes pellets that are deformed in some way, plus those that weren't right to begin with. In most brands you will find "peewees." These are pellets that didn't fill out fully during manufacture. The skirts will be shorter and the edges will be rounded on most peewees. A few brands, like JSB, don't seem to have peewees, which may be due to the factory sorting them out before they are shipped.

The second and ONLY other thing I do to sort pellets is to weigh them on an electronic powder scale. Buy this at a gun store or from one of the reloading supply houses like Midway. If you have a mechanical scale, they are just as accurate but they take much longer to use and are a drag when sorting several hundred pellets.

Sort the pellets into lots of identical weight. The electronic scales measure down to one-tenth grain, which is fine for this application. What a surprise you'll have when you do this. Crosman Premiers in .22 caliber don't all weigh 14.3 grains! In fact, most of them may weigh 14.4 or 14.5 grains, with relatively few weighing exactly 14.3 grains. In a box of 625 Premiers, it is not unusual to find a weight range from 14.1 to 14.7 grains. Imagine what a five-shot 50-yard group would look like if two of the pellets were from the extremes of that range!

Got flakes in your skirt?
Other things some people sort for are lead flakes and debris in the skirt of the pellet. All pellets have this stuff to some extent, but some brands are worse than others. Crosman Premiers are nearly always very clean, while some brands of pure lead pellets can be pretty dirty. The feeling among those who sort for lead debris is that it can throw a pellet off course. I haven't found it to be such a problem, but I am probably dealing with it pretty well by weighing the pellets.

Some folks wash their pellets to get rid of the lead debris. I don't because washing also removes the antioxidant coating the maker applies to keep the pellets from turning white. If you wash, you also have to immediately coat each pellet with oil or wax to preserve it. Personally, I think washing is a waste of time.

Size matters!
Other things people do when sorting pellets is check them for size uniformity. Airgun maker Dennis Quackenbush once made a gauge to check pellet skirt diameter, but what it showed was that pellet skirts are not all round. And inserting them in the breech of a high-quality pellet gun resizes them to as close to round as possible. That's also what a choked barrel does at the muzzle; so in better airguns, the pellets get sized twice.

Some folks purchase a pellet sizer and resize all their pellets before shooting. These people aren't concerned with the size of the pellets as they come from the box or tin because they are going to change that size after the fact. This doesn't qualify as sorting; and from the previous discussion about barrels, you should be able to see why it isn't necessary.

Wednesday, March 09, 2005

B.B.'s treasure chest - Picking a pellet

By B.B. Pelletier

Selecting the best pellet for your airguns seems like a challenge, doesn't it? How do you know which one, out of the hundreds out there, will turn out to be the best? You've heard that every pellet gun is an individual, which is true; so will your gun develop a craving for some strange pellet that everyone else says is no good? Probably not, and that's what this is all about.

While different airguns do like different pellets, there ARE some standards you can almost always count on. Those are the ones we will examine today.

For starters, have you ever tried Crosman Premiers in the square cardboard box? They are a domed lead pellet and come in .177, .20 and .22 calibers. In .177 they are available in two weights, 7.9 grains for use in spring and CO2 guns and 10.5 grains for use in pneumatics - both multi-pump and precharged. In the other two calibers (.20 and .22), they only come in the 14.3-grain weight, which turns out to be exactly what's needed. They have a deserved reputation for accuracy in most airguns and should be on your list of things to buy when you get another new gun.

Incidentally, you will also find Premiers in round tins. What is the difference, if any? As it turns out, Crosman packages Premiers in the cardboard box by die lot, and the die number is stamped on the bottom of the box. You are assured that the pellets in that box all came from the same manufacturing tooling. Shooters believe this gives them a little more uniformity, so the cardboard box is how the winners buy their Premiers. The Premiers in the round tin can be just as accurate as the others, but they may not all have come from the same tooling - at least that is the current belief among competitive shooters.

Another great pellet is the Beeman Kodiak, which is also sold as the Diabolo Baracuda. This is a heavy pellet in all calibers and should be used in rifles that can achieve at least 700 f.p.s. in the caliber you own. That doesn't mean 700 with Kodiaks, just with any light pellet. These pellets are a bit too heavy for pistols, though at ranges under 15 yards they will do fine in almost any gun.

One final pellet that is fast becoming a legend is the JSB Exact by Josef Schulz Bohumin in the Czech Republic. My opinion is that these are not necessarily that much different in design than other domed pellets; I believe Bohumin holds closer tolerances than the other companies.

We are not finished. ANY pellets you buy, and I don't care who made them, will have irregularities in the box or tin. So after you open the package, you have to sort through all the pellets to find the best ones if extreme accuracy is important.

Here is the difference between sorting and not sorting. A sorted pellet may shoot a half-inch group at 50 yards when everything else is right. An unsorted pellet may shoot anything from a half-inch to an inch and one-half. Shooting unsorted pellets is a crap-shoot. You won't know how they perform until you shoot the group!

Sorting - how do you do that? Well, for starters, you pick out all the visibly damaged pellets and discard them. And then? Well that sounds like a good subject for another day.

Tuesday, March 08, 2005

What about darts?

By B.B. Pelletier

Darts? Who shoots darts from an airgun?

Lots of people, though darts aren't as popular today as they were 100 years ago. And there's a good reason for that. Today's airguns, with their rifled barrels, are accurate and have enough power to shoot lead pellets to great ranges. But it wasn't always that way.

Airgun barrels of the 19th century and before were not usually rifled. Rifled barrels, while not unknown, did not come into play in a big way until BSA began using them on nearly all their air rifles starting in 1906. The underlever model they introduced that year was the first of a long line of modern air rifles based on powerful spring-piston powerplants

Before then, spring-piston guns were relatively weak and were most often smoothbores. The early airguns needed a missile that had low drag in the bore and was self-stabilizing. Enter the dart. Darts have been used for target airguns since at least the 1600s and quite possibly earlier. The darts used by airguns have traditionally looked like hand-thrown darts except for their smaller size.

Some entire brands of airguns relied heavily on the use of darts because their powerplants were too weak to propel anything heavier or anything that had high friction. A dart slides through the smooth bore of an airgun on a cushion of some kind of low friction material. Today's most common airgun darts have tails full of synthetic fibers to provide this cushion. Not only does it make a low-friction surface to slide on, it also seals the bore to keep the high-pressure air or gas behind the dart.

When a dart exits the muzzle, the synthetic skirt opens to a larger cone shape and starts dragging on the dart as it flies. Either that or some darts have much longer hard plastic tails that don't spread, but their length and shape still provide the needed drag. That keeps the point oriented forward in the direction of travel, which is why the dart sticks in the target when it lands.

Darts are only suitable for smoothbore guns that allow loading directly into the breech. They don't feed through repeater mechanisms worth a darn! And, their metal bodies are very hard on rifling. On the other hand, they are much better for informal target shooting in tight spaces because they stick to the target instead of splashing back as lead fragments.

You can use a standard dartboard like the ones sold in sporting goods stores or you can sometimes buy the board with the gun. Find a safe place to mount the board and make sure there will be no damage done to the wall or other property if you miss.

Dart guns are low-powered, quiet indoor target pieces for close-range work. They're perfect for apartment and condo dwellers, or anyone who wants to keep their indoor shooting to themselves.

Monday, March 07, 2005

The accurate airgun

By B.B. Pelletier

If you're a shooter you know about accuracy. In fact, accuracy is probably one of the things you value most about your guns.

I have to admit when I was younger I liked style and flash almost as much as accuracy, but that changed as I grew up. A 4,000 f.p.s. bullet that misses its target isn't half as impressive as a 1,200 f.p.s. bullet that connects!

Some day I hope to see a movie in which the bad guys are fighting with full-auto guns, sprayin' and prayin' as hard as they can. Then, the hero drops them with a single bullet each. The movie Quigley Down Under was something like that, wasn't it?

So, what's good in an airgun? Well, how about a BB gun that can group 10 shots on a pencil eraser at 16 feet? That's with the shooter shooting in the offhand position! If you think it's easy to do, try it some time.

I'm talking about a real BB gun, not some German gallery rifle, shooting precision lead balls through a rifled barrel. Well, for many years, Daisy made such a gun. The Avanti 499 is billed as "The World's Most Accurate BB Gun," and I haven't seen anyone refute that claim.

Is it expensive? I don't think so. Any time you can buy a precision target gun with a $100 and have enough left to take two adults to a matinee, I think that's cheap! Daisy created this unique single-shot MUZZLELOADING BB gun for the national BB gun championship program that they co-sponsor with the Jaycees. Millions of young boys and girls have competed in this program and most of them used the identical 499 BB guns that you can purchase [WHEN THEY ARE AVAILABLE!] for less than one month's gas money.

A competitor usually gets special equipment that the public can't buy at any price. You didn't think stock car racing was done with stock cars did you? But with the 499, you can own the same level of performance that this year's U.S. champion will be shooting, and you can do it for a lot less money than you paid for last year's cable or satellite television service.

You can have an accurate pellet gun cheap, too. Here are not one but two fantastic bargains in the lead-launcher category. Let's begin with the Gamo Compact target pistol. It's lightweight, super accurate and has great sights and a wonderful trigger. It's a $500 pistol wrapped in a $200 package. As an added benefit, it is VERY light, so if weight is an issue, this is one to consider. On the downside, it takes a bit of muscle to cock, so consider that.

The other super bargain target pistol is the Russian IZH 46M target pistol. It is on the heavy side to hold at arm's length, but the cocking effort is, I believe, the lightest in the world - at least as far as single-stroke pistols are concerned. Like the Gamo Compact, it has adjustable grips and world-class accuracy.

I've given you three excellent airguns to consider today. You may still want that super-magnum critter-gitter you've been saving for, but I'd be willing to bet you would shoot any one of these three about five times as often as your fancy-dude airgun. Isn't more shooting what it's all about?

Friday, March 04, 2005

What IS a BB gun?

By B.B. Pelletier

A BB gun is the fundamental starting point in our hobby. We shoot them, talk about them, collect them, and, for most of us, just hearing the term "BB gun" evokes a flood of memories. But what we think of when we think of BB guns depends largely on how old we are and where we came from.

The most common BB gun known today has got to be Daisy's Red Ryder. It was the first BB gun many of us had or wanted and, since it has been around almost continuously since its introduction in 1938, that includes nearly every airgunner alive today.

Contrary to the spiel Ralphie rattled off in the movie A Christmas Story, the Red Ryder is not a "200-shot carbine-action range-model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time." Author Jean Sheperd got confused when he remembered the Red Ryders of his youth and not only clipped a bunch of shots from the magazine capacity, he also added the compass and sundial that were only found on the Buck Jones pump BB guns. But we forgave him because of the thousands of pleasant memories he brought to life. Daisy even made a special Christmas Story Red Ryder that DID have a compass and sundial, though they put them on the correct side of the stock (the left) for right-handers. Little Ralphie's gun was built in reverse for his left-handed operation.

If you are under 40, the Red Ryder may not hold the same fascination it does for older kids. You may, in fact, remember one of two other airguns with equal fondness. One is Crosman's M1 Carbine, a very close copy of the military firearm that was made popular in the 1960s and '70s. It was a powerful BB gun that cocked by pushing in on the barrel to compress the mainspring. That took some effort, so smaller kids couldn't do it, which was good because the carbine was very powerful for its size.

The other gun you may remember is still made by Crosman - the ever-popular model 760 Pumpmaster. Millions of them have been sold since introduction in 1966, the same year the M1 Carbine hit the street. The name was Powermaster back then, a tribute to the easy, short pump stroke that developes magnum power with incredible ease. Millions of boys, along with more than a few girls, fondly remember their 760s.

We still haven't answered the title question, but here comes a bit of confusion. One of the coolest BB guns ever made is the fantastic Russian Drozd. It shoots .177 lead balls that are SO EASY to call BBs, and yet they are not the same steel BBs that are correct for Red Ryders and 760s. They are both larger and softer, being made from pure lead instead of mild steel. The Drozd has a rifled bore of true .177 specifications, so it shoots round lead balls both accurately and with great force! But, if you put steel BBs, which are both smaller and much harder, in your Drozd, you can jam the feed mechanism and ruin the rifled barrel.

So, have I answered the question yet? Not really, because I haven't even touched on the latest BB-type gun - the airsoft gun. Maybe this is a good place to stop for now, though, because airsoft deserves a decent discussion (or two) of its own.

Thursday, March 03, 2005

Why can't I go supersonic?

by B.B. Pelletier

Why can't I shoot pellets faster than the speed of sound? There's a question that pops up all the time, so I thought we'd take a look at it today.

For starters, read the Velocity and pellets article. It addresses all the problems with supersonic velocities and diabolo pellets. But that article still doesn't answer the question everyone asks, "If airgun makers are building guns that shoot supersonic, don't they mean for them to be used that way? Maybe, but maybe not.

Don't imagine that airgun makers run exhaustive tests to find out everything their guns can or will do. Nobody does that. They are concerned with operation and safety. Does the gun work and is it safe? If not, it's back to the drawing board. The gun should also be accurate, although accuracy depends on the intended use for the gun. A target gun has to be very accurate at 10 meters, but nobody cares what it does at 50 yards. A sporter has to be accurate at longer ranges, but don't expect 10-meter target accuracy. You may get it, but don't expect it every time.

Okay, what does all this have to do with supersonic velocities? Nothing! Supersonic velocities come into play in another way - advertising.

A lot of cars are sold on the basis of the lifestyle they represent. Firearms are sold that way, too. A hunter in Ohio may buy a .375 H&H Magnum rifle even though he never intends to use it on game. A .375 H&H in Ohio is about the equivalent of a Ferrari Testarossa in an Akron garage. It's braggin' rights, pure and simple.

Back to airguns. Manufacturers know that today's buyers are obsessed with velocity, so they advertise their guns that way. In the past, it was normal for certain Chinese air rifles, like the B3-1, to be advertised as shooting 800 f.p.s., when the best B3 actually had difficulty hitting 500 f.p.s. Other airgun models from England and Germany fudged their advertised velocities a little, though none were as blatant as the Chinese.

Then chronographs became affordable and people began to discover the truth for themselves. About the same time, companies like Beeman and manufacturers like Diana were publishing credible velocities for their guns. So, in the late 1970s the world of airgunning switched over to truth in advertising, for the most part. But in 1983, the new Beeman R1 broke 1,000 f.p.s. honestly for the first time. In the mid-1980s, Diana followed suit with the sidelever model 48/52, which exceeded 1,100 f.p.s. (all of this is in .177 caliber).

Then in the mid-1990s, the Koreans came here with powerful rifles, such as the Career 707, which could shoot .22-caliber pellets at speeds in excess of 1,200 f.p.s. The race for high velocity was on! Unfortunately, nobody was asking whether these guns were accurate at those speeds.

As it turned out, the guns were accurate, but with pellets that were so heavy they slowed muzzle velocities down to subsonic levels. However, that wasn't what people wanted to hear, so the report went out like this, "A Career 707 is very accurate at long range and it will shoot a .22-caliber Crosman Premier in excess of 1,200 f.p.s." Yes to the first statement and also to the second, BUT NOT TOGETHER!

Now, here's the real crusher. It may be that a super-powerful rifle will shoot a certain pellet faster than sound and also be reasonably accurate at 50 yards! How can this be? Well, not every group will be accurate, but you may get one out of five that looks great. So the owner of that rifle posts that one group on one of the chat forums and talks about it as though he always gets groups that good. In truth, he might be able to shoot much more accurately with a heavier pellet, but the muzzle velocity will not be as impressive. So, that's his story and he's sticking to it!

High velocity with diabolo pellets is an advertising strategy. And it works. If you own an airgun capable of high velocity, try shooting it with heavier pellets and see what happens to your groups at long range. Some of the best heavyweight pellets on the market are Beeman Kodiak (also sold as H&N Baracuda), Eun Jin/Sumatra, and Pyramyd Air's own Predator pellets. Kodiaks are 21 grains and will work well in almost every powerful air rifle. They come in .177, .20, .22 and .25 calibers. The Eun Jin pellet comes in all calibers, but they should be used in rifles capable of over 40 ft.-lbs. of muzzle energy. Predator pellets come in .177, .22 and .25 calibers and several different weights. They are solid bullets rather than diabolo pellets, so exercise the same caution when shooting them as when shooting a .22 rimfire rifle. They can carry over one mile, just like the bullet from a .22 short cartridge. They are harder to load because they are solid, so expect some resistance when they enter the bore.

So, supersonic velocities are possible. Accurate guns are possible. But not necessarily together.

Tuesday, March 01, 2005

Hunt with the Sheridan Blue Streak air rifle

by B.B. Pelletier

We recently received this question from a customer: Is the Sheridan Blue Streak considered a good gun for small game hunting? I know it puts out 14 ft.-lbs. but I do not know how that number sizes up for hunting.

The Sheridan Blue Streak is a great hunting air rifle if the distance to the target is reasonable. Rather than try to calculate energy at a given distance, think about it this way. If you can hit a 1.5" target every time, you can bag cottontail rabbits. For some people that will be 20 yards and for others it will be 35 yards. The Blue Streak (or Silver Streak, for that matter) has enough energy to kill a rabbit at 35 yards. Either a heart shot or a head shot is good for cottontails.

If the game is squirrels, the target size shrinks to one inch. Squirrels are tougher and take more energy to put down. Try for a head shot because a squirrel hit in the body may run away.

The Sheridan's .20 caliber is adequate for game like this and for birds up to crow size. Use a domed pellet like a Beeman Kodiak or Crosman Premier. Only use hollowpoints if the target is closer than 25 yards, because many hollowpoints become inaccurate at farther distances. At very close ranges, like 10 yards, wadcutter pellets are great for hunting.

Pump your rifle the full eight strokes for this kind of hunting. Use fewer pumps when the shots are very close or the game is smaller, like rats and ground squirrels. Don't forget to oil the pump mechanism from time to time, as a thin film of Crosman Pellgunoil makes the pump more efficient. Read the owner's manual about this.

The Sheridan Blue and Silver Streak air rifles have been around since the 1950s. They have earned a place in airgunner's hearts for being some of the best values among adult airguns today. If you don't have one in your inventory, maybe it's time to see what you're missing.