Daisy 25 dating information – Part 2

by B.B. Pelletier

If you’re interested in getting a Daisy No. 25 BB gun, Pyramyd Air now sells the new version.

Part 1

The first look at Daisy No. 25 pump guns was an eye-opener for me, as I’m sure it was for a lot of readers. Most airgunners know the difference between the 5- and 6-groove wooden pump handles and that the engraved model was first made in 1936, but that’s about it. We’re looking way down in the details, to separate small manufacturing differences that can sometimes pinpoint a gun’s date of manufacture to only one or two years.

Just a reminder that Daisy never threw away anything, so it’s entirely possible to encounter a gun with what are certainly 1920s features, yet it also contains a 1915 item as well. And when it comes to things that can be taken off the gun, like stocks and shot tubes especially, it’s all up for grabs. It’s very similar to putting an M1 Carbine together with all matching parts, when the reality is that there probably aren’t that many, if any, in existence because of arms-room parts swaps over the years. Show me a matching Carbine, and I’ll show you a put-together project gun. And so it can be with the No. 25, so keep that in mind.

In Part 1, I concentrated on the very earliest No. 25s. Today, we’ll jump forward and look at the guns made from 1916 to 1930. These are both the short- and long-throw levers, as well as the guns with the pump lever rod welded to the barrel.

Triggerguards
I used to think that the guns with the squared-off triggerguards were made before 1925, but John Steed’s research and subsequent pamphlet taught me that the rounded sheetmetal strap triggerguard didn’t come into production until 1930.


The triggerguard was squared-off and made of folded metal from 1914 to about 1930.


In 1930, the triggerguard was rounded at the back and made of a flat sheetmetal strap.

You may think I’m being very detailed in my look at 25s, but the truth is that I’m only touching the high points. I could talk about the shapes of trigger blades, too, because that changed a lot over the years. In fact, if you look at the triggers in the two photos above, you’ll see that they’re different. I could also talk about rear sights, because they went through several transformations, as well. I’m not going to do that, though, because I want to keep this report manageable; but I do want you to know there’s a whole other level of detail about these guns that I’m not giving you.

Receiver tang straps
The top rear of the receiver was squared-off until around 1930, when it got a tang strap with a wood screw that went into the top of the pistol grip. Until then, there was no pistol grip. The early stock grip was straight. But when the pistol grip was added to the buttstock, the tang was added to the receiver and the wood screw was moved from the top of the gun to the end of the tang strap.


Before 1930, the top of the receiver was squared off and a wood screw went through the rear of the receiver into the buttstock.


In 1930, the top of the receiver got a tang strap that extended down the top of the pistol grip. The wood screw was moved to the end of this strap.

Claw mounts and welded pump guide rods.
The claw-type pump guide rod lasted from 1914 until some time in 1931. Remember that 1930 changeover year, because a lot of important changes originated then. The welded-type pump guide rod began in 1930 and lasted through to the end of production.

However, I was once fooled by a claw-type mount advertised on an internet auction. You know the type–where the pictures are all long shots and all the closeups are out of focus. Sometimes, people don’t know how to use their cameras, but other times they do it to deceive, which is what happened to me. I bought a post-1930s-type No. 25 with a claw-type mount for the pump rod. When I received the gun, it was obvious the welded mount had broken and someone had simply used a claw-type mount to make the repair. Because of the artful trickery of the photography, I always felt cheated by this deal.

That was the event that ended my collecting of the No. 25. I reckoned I had all the major types, and I was through trying to own one of everything ever produced. Since then, I have slowly been selling off my collection.


The claw-type mount for the pump guide rod lasted from 1914 until 1931. It was the only type mount for the short-throw pump levers.


The welded mount for the pump guide rod lasted from 1930 until the end of production.

Takedown screw heads
Oh my gosh! Am I going to get down to that detail? You betcha, because the takedown screw is a big deal with No. 25s. It’s supposed to be a captive screw, but I’ve seen some that will come all the way out of the receiver. Back when I started collecting, there were only two types known–the so-called “penny head” screw–so-called because it was domed and about the size of an American penny–and the more common truncated cone. Well, John Steed managed to uncover a second (smaller) variation of the truncated cone, plus he reminded us of the special screw head on the camper model that has a saddle ring stuck through the head. He also showed us a Phillips head takedown screw that I never knew existed.


The early head on the takedown screw was the size and rough shape of a penny.


After the penny head screw came the truncated cone takedown screw–around 1927. The large head like this one came first, and was followed by a small-headed screw around 1933. There were many years of overlap on these screws between 1927 and 1938.

Stock shapes and wood
The subject of stocks on a No. 25 is confusing, to say the least. As far as wood types or species goes, Daisy tended to use walnut in the beginning, then they switched to poplar, which is also called gum. But there was also a period when they used oak, which is very striking looking. But you know what? Wood is ordered and shipped and they would use whatever they had on hand, as long as it fits. So, the straight grip versus pistol grip is more telling than the type of wood a stock is made of. Don’t forget that stocks are easy to replicate at home, so what’s on a gun is not very telling.


This is a straight grip stock made of walnut from the 1925-1930 timeframe.


This is a pistol grip stock made from poplar. It dates to the 1930-1953 timeframe, though the gun it’s on dates to 1930-1935.


This is a pistol grip stock made of oak from the 1930-1935 timeframe. These are scarce and hard to find.

Well, that gets us up to 1935. In 1936, Daisy started engraving the receiver of the No. 25, so that’s what I’ll look at next.

72 thoughts on “Daisy 25 dating information – Part 2

  1. BB, pretty informative on that Daisy (as usual for you!). I am in awe at the depth of both your knowledge and your collection of airguns (must be a good one!)

    I have had the unpleasant experience of late to have had my cleaning kit stolen…(some lucky thief has quite a kit from 28 years of putting one together!!) Looking at the task of putting a new one together and I am seeking opinion…and would like to keep it manageable. My last one was an ammo box that weighed in at what felt like 40lbs!

    This will be my kit for both air and firearms as well. What do you suggest? Anyone please feel free to comment as I know there are a lot of you with some great experience here as well.

    Thanks,

    dsw


  2. dsw,

    If the kit has to fit into a box you have no choice but jointed rods. I have them, too, but I use the Dewey solid rods for 95 percent of all cleaning.

    Hoppes Number Nine goes without saying, but Synthetic Gun Scrubber from Birchwood Casey is even better. It cleans a gun with just the push of a button.

    And for tough jacket fouling, I use Sweets 7.62.

    I also keep a hooded magnifyer and a nanolight handy for seeing small details and dark places.

    B.B.


  3. BB,I have a confession to make…..the daisy number 25 is the one that started it all for me.Growing up,one from probably the fourties lived in the very top of the livingroom closet.No mans land,the other side of the earth if you lived in my house.Never spoken of,but the older I got,the more it called to me!I wish I could tell You of getting it for christmas or something,but that never happened.So to this day,that no.25 is the one that meant the most,and started my whole collection…a rather large one…and you have served as Dad,the ever knowledgeable tour guide. Thank you, Frank B


  4. Frank,

    Your story is not too different from mine.

    I broke my first 25 by taking it apart when it lost power because of no oil. Then I sold the parts for a quarter to get it out of my sight. A couple days later the guy who bought it brought it back–his father had fixed it.

    That's why I have a fixation.

    B.B.


  5. So we share an affliction!I somehow feel vindicated.thanks a bunch.Please keep me in mind next time you prune the herd of 25's.You have my Email and I have a blank check…..or goats and chickens…no Shamals!


  6. dsw,

    After 28 years you probably know what you want in your cleaning kit (or are you talking about your range box being stolen?).

    Everyones kit should have a set of gunsmith screwdrivers. They don't have to be an expensive fixed blade set but if you have worn out screwdrivers in your kit that used to be in the garage throw them away. The typical wedge blade designed screwdriver should never be used on guns (can you tell that buggered screws are a pet peave of mine?).

    The most frequently used items in my kits are a gunsmith mat (fairly thick, rubberized back but topside absorbs grease and oil. don't remember where I got it or who makes it but it was specifically designed to be rolled out and placed on top of a table/bench for working on greasy/oily things), brushes, patches, rags, silicone cloth in a ziplock, set of allen wrenches, magnifier (this gets used a lot more often these days), parts tray, lens cleaner and pads…..

    kevin


  7. Kevin,

    whose screw drivers do you like and any suggestions on favorite stores that handle them?

    BB, I'll have to look into synthetic gun scrubber. If you and Kevin could, whose brushes and jags do you prefer or is there any reason to purchase one brand over the other?



  8. Fred,

    I use dewey one piece rods and use the metal jags and metal loops that came with the rods. I use the brushes and mops that are on sale.

    I have a set of brownells fixed blade screwdrivers. They sit on my workbench at my city home.

    I bought a cheap b-square set with one handle and lots of bits to have at my cabin. This set gets used alot since that's where I do most of my shooting. Don't have any complaints about the b-square set. I think b-square sets are/were sold by PA. When I needed to buy one they were out of stock so I bought mine on fleabay.

    kevin


  9. B.B.

    That is one very straight pistol grip on the daisy stock. The modern trend in assault rifles, not to mention target rifles, seems to be for a vertical pistol grip. Is there an advantage to a straight one? Is it for better handling?

    Regarding kits, I can vouch for Dewey cleaning rods and jags which are good quality and with great customer service. I've also found Ballistol to be useful.

    Matt61


  10. Matt,

    Let's save your stock grip question until Monday, when I will be showing you another airgun with one.

    I will be at the SHOT Show, so perhaps you could bone up on the style in preparation for telling others what the advantages are?

    B.B.



  11. alright i commented about the cheek piece on my npss yesterday and got some interesting responses but im wondering if filling my stock with foam is a good idea, im all for making my rifle perform better but will this void my warranty? I only got it a short time ago and i think i like the way it shoots now, but i adjusted my cheek rest and i like the feel of the gun a lot better now. thanks.




  12. B.B.

    Is it already time for the SHOT Show where they reveal all the cool new guns? Okay, I'll have a look at the theory of stock grips and share what I've learned. I happen to now be reading David Tubb's thoughts on the pistol grip of his T2K rifle.

    Also, incidentally, I've also been reading the instructions from Middlton Tompkins (husband of Nancy and a world class shooter in his own right) on reloading. Ye gods! He has 12 steps for resizing, neck trimming, case turning, deburring, flash hole, priming… Anyone who does this has my respect.

    Matt61


  13. Kevin and all,I lean a different way when it comes to gun screwdrivers.I was given a Chapman set a few years back…I learned more about screwdrivers than you could imagine from the pamplet that came with that set!After seeing the engineering and thought that went into their tools,I won't soon look elsewhere…..that being said,lately a few companies have made sets available that include a torque wrench handle.Since we spend every waking hour worrying over accuracy,quality and general excellence in our airguns,don't they deserve precision reassembly??



  14. Bud,

    No, I plan to finish this with the Daisy move from Blued guns to painted and plastic. That's around 1952-54. The current model is made in China, so in my mind it isn't real.

    The SHOT Show is next Tuesday through Friday.

    B.B.




  15. Frank B,

    Yes we're in agreement about Chapman screw drivers. I've had a set for years and use no others on any of my guns.

    I've looked at the Fat Torque Wrench, but that's as far as I've gone with it. Frank B makes a very good point about torquing being a good thing. Is anyone using the FTW or any other that they want to recommend to us? Please speak up.

    dws,

    I have a .22 and .177 bore snake that I have dedicated to my air guns, no powder burner solvents, etc. on them. I use them like a cleaning pellet.

    Mr B.


  16. BB & Kevin,

    thanks for the help. Hoppes #9, and something that sprays like you suggest,( I used brake cleaner, green can, not the stuff with trike, or whatever), yes it was my range kit wich is what I use at home also.

    screwdrivers are on the list, thanks for the tip there. already started the appropriate collection of brushes, eyeletts and patch stuff.

    I thought I reply'd earlier, but I guess I logged off this morning before confirming, sorry.

    I had a container of white (lithium?) grease that I used for the hard friction points that worked fantastic for 20+ yrs so I will be looking for a replacement as I don't recall what it was. Got a suggestion? Could use a good recommendation on a spray lube as well. I always sprayed parts after blasting with cleaner, then wiped 'em down prior to reassembly.

    dsw


  17. dsw, I have some plastic and metal dental picks in my kit, as well as a small pair of quality needle nose pliers. Also brass and metal gunsmith punch sets, and a small nylon hammer to go with them. There is a 1" Starret micrometer in my kit. That really comes in useful more than one would believe. Another lube product I would recomend having is a small jar of JM's moly paste.Also, some swabs, Q-tips, old tooth brush, and pipe cleaners to apply it and clean up stuff. Robert.


  18. Robert,you raise a good point about a micrometer being handy…Starret,made in Athol,Mass. is a sure sign of quality from the old school!I refuse to pass up a micrometer or dial caliper at the flea mkt. that is marked Starret!A small led light is indespensible as well.lets not leave out a magnetic parts tray,which can be found at the local car pts. place.


  19. Hi B.B.,
    At the shot show, can you find out the status of Crossmans PCP Pistol that is supposed to be available this year. Any information on it's specs and availability would be greatly appreciated.
    Thanks,
    Jeff


  20. 490 Update:

    I finally got some time to test out my 490 with basics, as I've been playing with my new airsoft guns. Well, at about 12 feet (parents were home and didn't want to bother them), they went through 2/3 of the tin cans, with the third being smaller and thicker than both others. However, neither dented the next side of the can. I feel that after a longer break-in period, it should probably get better. If anyone has some more tips, please tell me them.

    P.S. I did not hear honking when I cocked the gun, but I was not listening especially carefully.

    Thanks, Ryan


  21. WOW! you guys must have as heavy of a kit as I had!!

    MrB, great idea on the bore snake. I never used one and I think I'l give it a go. you don't use a bore brush?

    Robert, hmm… micrometer, huh? For a hammer I always used the wooden handle of large screwdriver (keeps me from beating too hard on things during one of those impatient spells!)

    dsw



  22. Jeff,

    You bet I will learn the status of BOTH of Crosman's new PCP pistols. Also their .25 Premier and the several guns they built to shoot it in. Also the dozen or so other new guns they are bringing out.

    It's going to be a busy year!

    B.B.


  23. B.B.,

    A Daisey Model 25 was my first real gun also. That was in 1953. What are the identifiers for that particular model. I sure would like to find one. It would get the number one spot on my gun rack.

    See Frank B not only do we have impecable taste in screw drivers, but also in first guns!:)

    Mr B.



  24. Mr. B.,

    1953 was in the middle of a huge transition for the Number 25. They had been paining the metal for several years, instead of bluing it, and experimenting with plastic stocks and pump handles. A 1953 gun should be painted, have all plastic, a rear flip sight that has both a notch and a peep, and engraving on the receiver. In later years the engraving was discontinued and the receive was painted to look as if it were engraved. There was gold paint inside the engraved lines to make them stand out, because the electrostatic pain Daisy used was so good at covering blemishes.

    I have a brand-new number 25 like I've described and I will take some detail shots so you can see what I'm talking about. My gun is so new that none of the paint has been scratched on the pump linkage, which is where it shows first.

    B.B.



  25. I was shooting yesterday and I herd my rifle crack like a .22 and there was tons of smoke. I thought back and I don't remember placing a pellet in the barrel but I don't remember not outing pellet in the bore either, could this be a detonation?



  26. Mr B,couldn't be happier to be in such good company.you,however…might want to aim a little higher.I'm certain you could do better!




  27. I've been traveling and have not had much net connectivity, so this is late. If I remember a few days back one member announced the removal of a cataract and the insertion of an implant. Welcome to the semi-bionic club!

    Try to find some place where there's an ultraviolet ('black') light source before your other eye gets done. You may be surprised to find that the eye with the implant is now quite sensitive to UV; you'll be seeing in a part of the spectrum you never could before.

    It turns out that the plastic implant is transparent to UV, while our natural lenses are not.

    For more on the subject: http://www.cartalk.com/content/puzzler/transcripts/200302/answer.html

    -pete zimmerman


  28. B.B.

    I'm still struggling with the mounts on my RM-600.

    I bought 4 diff. sets of mounts from PA and am experimenting with them. Right now I have a leapers one piece on it. I centered the crosshairs in the scope based on your instructions first. After mounting the scope it shoots about 1 1/2" left at only 5 yds. I then turned the mount 180 degrees on the rails with same result.

    I have another one piece mount and 2 sets of 2 piece mounts to try also. One of the 2 piece sets is the Air force one with 2 rail screws and 4 clamp screws per mount. So fairly heavy duty for 2 piece. I like the way the air force mounts clamp down because they may allow me to shim for windage. Plus I can play around with reversing the mounts etc to see if it helps.

    The package says they are for PCP and spring guns. Is it pointless for me to try the 2 piece mounts on this gun?

    One other question. My gun came with a screw hole for the stop pin. Am I better off to use this or just but the mount against the plastic cap at the rear?

    Thanks in advance.
    Flyfisher


  29. Flyfisher,

    I find two-piece mounts much more flexible than one-piece in your situation. And, since one-piece mounts are no stronger than two-piece, I would use them.

    By all means use the hole for the scope stop. The plastic cap will break from constant recoil stress.

    B.B.


  30. Slingi9ng Leasd,

    Ralphie's BB gun isn't a Buck Jones, either. It's a combination of the Buck Jones compass and sundial, and the Red Ryder lever-action gun. The Buck Jones was a trombone (pump) action gun.

    B.B.


  31. The following came in through the Blogger acctount. I don't answer questions thyere, so I'm re-postiung it here:

    My name is Orlando Pedrosa. I am an airgun enthusiats from Puerto Rico. I read with interest your blogs whenever I can, and appreciate your kindness in sharing your whealth of information and opinions with us.

    I took the liberty of writing because I read a blog in which Rick Klages wrote about the procedure for straightening an airgun barrel. I have a Beeman C1 that shoot 5" higher at 10 yards than the highest setting on my scope or open sights. This happened after the barrel sliped while trying to cock it. I guess it is bent. The problem I have is that I can't understand how to bend it back, because when I place the action on the table and press the barrel down it bend at the pivot point. I can't figure out where to press down in order to keep the barrel from breaking open. I tried turning the action upside down and cocking the rifle and pressing the barrel down while cocked, but I manage to bend the bar that connects the barrel to the spring.

    Any help will be greatly apreciated.

    Orlando


  32. Orlando,

    You have to bend the barrel without allowing it to move. A straight table will work. Most people remove the barrel from the gun, but it isn't necessary. You just have to find a way to put pressure on the barrel at the bend without allowing it to move elsewhere. Between two pipes on a table, perhaps?

    B.B.


  33. Orlando,I don't know you personally,so don't take this that way.sometimes "do it yourself"means find the wisest mechanically inclined person around and do it with their help.your barrel can be straightened ok but help from someone mechanical may be important.You found out already that things can get worse.put a straight edge against the barrel and find where it bends first.then someone can help you rig a way to hold one end stable in an untightened vice or similar configuration.maybe a local car mechanic or even carpenter will help? good luck!



  34. Total neophyte when it comes to guns. Raised right outside NYC so our idea of wildlife was the occasional pigeon. Now out in rural/suburban area, have a dog with an open piece of property and coyote have become more prevalent. Read on a NY State Wildlife Comm. piece that using an air rifle would work. Wouldn't kill them but would give them the message they are not wanted. So, my questions are:

    1. You have more experience with wildlife so what do you think about this idea?
    2. Do I use a 22 Cal.?
    3. I don't want to spend much more than $200 so do you have a suggestion as to which gun?
    4. Want to make sure I can take multiple shots in case he gets mad more than hurt (or if there are multiple coyote at the time).
    5. Is there a better "power plant" than others i.e. CO2 etc.?

    Sorry if these questions are very basic but I have no idea what I am doing when it comes to this. Can't use a "powder type" rifle (if that is how they call it) because neighbors are too close (property size about an acre). Would appreciate any help or advice you can provide. (Thanks Mr. B. for suggesting I place this question on this blog.)

    Thanks.


  35. anyone,

    just a quick question… does anyone know why the Crosman Nitro Piston in the composite stock is discontinued? it no longer shows up in the product list and when i find it on Pyramyd (through google) it says that the gun is discontinued. i'm pretty sure Crosman wouldn't discontinue a gun that is doing so well. is there a new version coming out? again this is the Crosman Nitro Piston, with the composite stock. it no longer exists on the product page, so i assume it has been discontinued, for whatever reason. does anyone know why?

    John W.


  36. B.B.–Scott298. I was hoping you could help me or point me in the right direction. While my hand was on the mend I adjusted all the play out of the 1st stage of my trigger on my 350 so I could shoot it easier. Now that things are getting back to normal I followed the directions and no matter which way I turn the adjustment screw I cannot find the let off point-in essence the rifle has a hair trigger and will not go back. I asked Umarex for help and got the standared reply-mail it back to us. I do not want to go thru the expense of mailing out and back and who only know's what other charges might incur. Can you help me out with this? Thanks Scott298




  37. Totally lost,just my opinion but wounding a coyote with a pellet from an inexpensive airgun[200$] is really asking for trouble.A wounded predator/scavenger has to do different things to survive.You either need to put them down humanely,or find a way that doesn't involve wounding them.It's really that simple.An absessed wound from a low powered pellet gun may leave you with an animal that has to come closer…not a good thing. Frank B


  38. Totally Lost,

    using a pellet rifle to "scare off" any wildlife is cruel and can cause a lingering death to the animal. The pellet can penetrate the animal and cause infection, producing a painful, lingering death. There was a comment on here about a year ago concerning someone who shot at a deer to scare it off from their garden, only to watch it limp off, collapse and eventually die about an hour later. I personally think a coyote is too big an animal for a breakbarrel rifle. Typically, we use these on birds, squirrels, rabbits, woodchucks and other samll to moderate size vermin.

    However, let others who hunt regularly give you the benefit of their experience. Regarding rifles, the .22 cal rifle generates more energy (foot-pounds with the heavier pellet) than a
    .177 so is the choice for hunting.

    Perhaps the best starter rifle is an RWS 34 – you get quality, high power and a good trigger but this typically runs around $216, a little bit higher than you want to spend. Here is a link of all .22 cal rifles Pyramyd Air has for sale.

    http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/show.pl?cmd_rifles=show_guns_caliber&Caliber=0.220

    There are several rifles from Beeman (RS2), Gamo Whisper CSI and Crosman 2260 that can be used for hunting within your price range. I'd advise staying with a break barrel. They develop more power than CO2. Also, do not be misled by the velocity the manufacturers all scream about their rifles are capable of. They are achieved with ultra light pellets that you don't want to use on hunting. The other thing, is you want to keep the velocity around 800-900 fps to achieve best accuracy. Speaking of accuracy, due to the triple recoil a spring piston rifle delivers, shooting a number of times to get used to the recoil and practicing the "artillery hold" is paramount to achieve accuracy.

    Here's another link to see what this "artillery hold" is all about.

    http://www.pyramydair.com/artillery-hold-video-article.shtml

    Welcome to the great world of airguns. We hope to see you on this blog and as BB says, "there are no stupid quesstions".

    Fred PRoNJ


  39. Scott, I have an RWS 350 but mine has the T-01 trigger. Take a closer look at the rifle. Mine identifies the trigger with writing on the top of the barrel. Get back to us and let us know what trigger you have.

    Fred PRoNJ



  40. So Fred,how are you coming along with the 10M pistol shooting?I hope you at least have begun to get used to the open sights.I was never able to do much with that big red dot.Have you found a favorite pellet? I have been lured in to shooting the IZH 61. Frank B


  41. Hey Frank B,

    I removed the red dot and flipped the rear iron sight so I had a bigger slot to work with. Right now, I can get three out of 5 pellets in the black – maybe the 8 or 9 ring. The other two go into the white – sometimes on the bull, at least one in the sheetrock. Fortunately, I keep spackling compound nearby :).

    I need to do exercise to build up my right arm muscles so I can have better control. I did have to re-adjust the base of the handle so the gun would more naturally be level when I aimed. It is a lovely piece.

    Scott298, I'll get back to you this evening as I have an RWS 46 with the T-05 trigger.

    Fred PRoNJ



  42. Thanks Fred

    You have made me feel much better! It's good to know that I'm not the only one that keeps spackling compound in their range bag.

    Caveman


  43. L.O.L FRED I guss there is too mutch copetition on cregslist. I just typed in bb gun and found a 14 year old trying to get $40.00 for his S&W M&P. Oh, it came with a C02 cylinder and a few bbs. Yikes!

    Bud


  44. fRED,great,you are making real progress.I personally could find no balance or advantage with that red dot sight…A high bullseye to sheetrock ratio is a very good thing!! Frank B


  45. Scott298,

    if Vince is going to help you, then you've got one of the best this list has to offer. Here's what I find or would recommend in any event – screw the adjustment (located infront of the trigger, right?) home, then back out 1 turn. This should give you a fairly light but safe trigger and a easily definable first stage.

    I'll e-mail this to you at shirlihy address in any event.


  46. Frank B.

    it appears that the GAmo match pellet wadcutter has a slight advantage over the RWS R-10 and JSB's. Not much, mind you, but just a fraction. At any rate, they're cheaper than the R-10's and JSB's.

    Fred



  47. b.b.,
    i recently tried firing a 17 caliber bullet out of my big cat 1200. i know a .17 cal bullet is only .172" in diameter, so i paper-patched it with a cleaning patch, haha. first time i tried, point-blank range, i fired it into a 2×4 and it worked fine. every time afterwards, with the cleaning patch it was too tight in the barrel and only jammed. i tried just sliding a couple down the barrel with no patch and of course, they fired but they tumbled. i'm pretty intent on making these work, tomorrow i'm going to glue a wadcutter to the bottom of a few and try that out. any ideas?


  48. Totally Lost,

    As Fred said, a pellet gun isn't the way to scare off animals. A powerful enough airgun can be used to hunt them.

    There are several ways to discourage animals from coming around. One is to remove whatever might be attracting them (cat/dog food outside, garbage, etc.). If there doesn't seem to be anything attracting them, then you can try looking up repellants on google for whatever animal you want to discourage. This can range from planting certain types of plants to Liquid Fence.

    If that doesn't work, you can resort to noise makers, motion sensitive sprinklers or, I know someone that seems to have success with a paintball gun. (One concern with the paintball solution – would the paint interfere with the animal's camouflage, etc. and is it non-toxic if the animal licks it?)



  49. A friend from church mentioned that her aisy pump BB gun dah lost its power. I am a Remington 700 and Colt AR armorer but thought I should get the best information on what the problem and fix might be. My old experience with BB guns involved a little oil in the right place. This gun is old and appears to never have been cleaned.

    I appreciate any advice.


  50. Well try this. Remove the Daisy's shot tube and drop ten or even 20 drops of household oil down the inside of what looks like the barrel. Stand the gun on its butt for 30 minutes before firing.

    At the bottom of the barrel jacket there is a hole for the moving air transfer port, and the oil will seep through and get into the leather piston seal. At least it should be leather if the gun is really a vintage one (made before 1950).

    Load the shot tube and replace it in the gun, being very careful that the movable air transfer port slides into the back of the shot tube. Then shoot the gun a bunch of times (20-40) and power should be restored.

    This should bring the gun back to power. Please tell me if it works or if we need to resort to other things.

    B.B.


  51. B.B.

    Thanks for the info. Will give this a try and let you know. Not certain of the exact year the gun was built, but the lady is about 68and she had it as a child.

    The first thing I did was remove and clean the shot tube. I reinserted and screwed the tube back to test fire it but still no power. Upon removing the shot tube it had picked up a lot of dirt and grime. Should I also try to clean out down in the lower section of the "barrel"


  52. That dirt and grime might be the leather piston seal disintegrating from being too dry for too long. If you are finding larger chunks of "dirt" in the gun, that's probably what it is.

    If you clean inside the barrel jacket, don't use any firearm cleaning solvent. Just clean with a dry patch or a swab.

    And try my oiling suggestion. It might not be too late.

    B.B.


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