by B.B. Pelletier
Normally Part 3 would be an accuracy test; but if you’ve followed this report, you know that my Webley Junior was shooting very slow when I tested it for velocity. So, I told you I would disassemble it and have a look inside to learn what I could about the shape of the powerplant.
The first clue I had took no disassembly whatsoever. I simply looked through the cocking slot on top of the gun and noticed that the mainspring was bone dry. I’d lubricated the breech seal and piston seal before velocity testing, but I left the mainspring alone. I’m glad I did, because I learned that this gun was really too dry inside for proper operation. But I’m getting ahead of myself.
Step one
The first step in the disassembly of any Webley classic pistol is to remove the barrel. One screw was removed, and the .177 smoothbore barrel came out, though not easily. From the appearance of the machined surfaces on the barrel lug, it was obvious that this pistol had not been apart many times in its 60+ years since leaving the factory. Perhaps never!
Step two — the tricky part
The mainspring is held in place by a threaded end cap that also incorporates a spring guide. The cap threads are fine, and a pistol that hasn’t been apart presents a real challenge. The challenge is to get the cap off without disturbing the sharp edges around the slot in the cap.
I chucked up the handle of a big pair of channel lock pliers sticking straight up in my bench vice and inserted it into the end cap slot. Using the pistol grip as a handle to turn the gun, I broke the cap free. Once it was free, the threads were exposed in a couple places, so I squirted some Kroil penetrating oil on them to loosen the cap more. It came off with nary a mark left on the end cap.
Spring out
The mainspring is under a bit of compression, so when the last thread is out the end cap springs away from the pistol. I was surprised by how far this one moved, and I photographed it for you. It seems close to a brand-new mainspring, but the look of the parts inside tells me the gun probably hasn’t been apart since at least the late 1960s. I say that because of a pristine leather piston seal and spacer. Those items were changed to synthetic by Webley in 1965, so I think they’ve been in this gun a very long time.
The piston can then be removed by pulling the trigger to get the sear out of the way. A screwdriver through the cocking slot does the rest, and you slide the steel piston out the front of the gun. The piston and mainspring were both dry but quite dirty, as though some minimal oil had dried on their surfaces decades ago. A couple wipes with a rag removed the grime, leaving the parts sparkling. The piston seal was oily, which was to be expected.
That completes all the disassembly I need to do. It took me half an hour for everything, but after I lubricate the parts and the end cap threads prior to assembly I’ll be able to tear it down next time in 15 minutes.
Now what?
I expected to find a bad piston seal in this gun and am stymied that it’s as nice as it is. I can’t honestly see one part that requires replacement. On the other hand, I seriously doubt lubrication alone will let the gun gain the 100+ f.p.s. that it lacks. That just hasn’t been my experience. However, I will now clean the powerplant and all parts, lubricate everything correctly and assemble the gun to test once more.
Hello BB,
In the last photo I notice the retaining screw and spacer sit slightly proud of the leather piston seal.
When making your own leather piston seal what is the optimum depth of the seal in relation to the retaining screw.Should it be flush?
Thanks,
DaveUK
Dave,
I’m not sure. This is the first Junior I have been inside. Maybe the leading edges of the piston seal are worn back just a little. I’m so used to seeing seals that are horribly worn that this one looks pretty good to me. I looked in the Webley book and it does seem that the spacer is supposed to be flush with the lip.
B.B.
Hi Dave ! In case you didnt read this well take a look http://anotherairgunblog.blogspot.com/2008_08_24_archive.html
Do you think you and PyramydAir could make some kind of “kit” or bundle with the all the stuff needed to maintain our airguns ? JB paste, 20 weight oil, silicone oil, the right kind of greases etc… It would be great for newbies like me to be able to buy all in one shot all the products needed to maintain and maybe even tune our airguns. Maybe ship it with a little kinda guide in the box to tell us what goes where and how much of it ? I think it would be great and I would buy it in a heartbeat (but since it’s my idea maybe I could get a free kit 😉 ).
J-F
J-F,
A kit would be tough. Should it include the Dewey one-piece cleaning rod?
The problem with such kits is that different guns will need different things. And how few people ever use JB paste?
It might be possible to put together a list of recommended items that each type of gun requires, but even that will take a long time to create, because of so many personal considerations.
Also people maintain their guns to different levels. This guy just oils the cocking joints, while that guy wants to strip the gun and do a complete tuneup. And not everybody agrees which products do best for certain jobs, so the kit contains some items that the buyer may not want.
Where is the need for 20-weight oil coming from? Use Crosman Pellgunoil for everything. It is formulated from 20-weight non-detergent oil.
B.B.
Then how about a “customisable” kit just like pyramyd has with some airguns where you can have “bundles” and save money…
Lets say your buying this : /product/plano-green-camo-shooters-case-large?a=1788
you could add stuff to it that you need as bundles or maybe just put a “accessories” button listing a few cleaning, and lubing products, it wouldn’t save money but it would at least save time.
Sorry if I seem hard headed (must be my feminine side :-p ) but I’m sure there’s a good idea in there somewhere.
J-F
J-F,
If even one item in such a kit is out of stock the order will be held as a backorder. So if there are 10 items in a kit, that’s ten times the chance of a backorder.
While it is easy to say just order enough stock so you never run out, but the truth is, when the volume is as great as Pyramyd AIR, it always happens.
So I think a kit is out. Perhaps a list of recommended products.
B.B.
That would be great ! and thanks to vulcanator I took a look at ARH lube kits, they look very interesting.
J-F,
In theory a kit sounds good but considering all the ego’s and unique opinions about products that should be used to maintain an airgun a kit assembled by the most experienced and respected airgunner would sit on the shelf for these reasons.
Many people never clean barrels. Many people use silicone oil from hobby shops used for shock absorbers on model planes and cars, some use pellgunoil others use 3 in 1. Many airgunners take pride in finding/creating their own lubes and greases others buy the 3 lube package from macarri that has been tried, tested and used for years.
A kit that is universally accepted is impossible.
kevin
As stated by others there would need to be so many different kits. I only shoot CO2, would not need a lot of what would be involved in a full kit. I’m very new to this and half the time don’t even understand the language used concerning springers, break barrels and PCP’s on this blog. So an all encompassing kit would be a waste of money for me.
rikib
B.B.,
I can sense your disappointment that the internals in your new Webley Junior are in such good shape. I know you’re going to clean, lube and reassemble but is a different spring the only option to up power in this pistol?
Kano Kroil is one of those few products left on the planet that does what it advertises. I bought a diana rear aperture sight that had the fine threaded insert frozen in place. Needed to remove it to install a gehmann. Kroil to the rescue.
kevin
Kevin;
When I used to play around with vintage tractors, which is an even MORE!!! expensive hobby than guns, I used the Kano Kroil to free up stuck engines, and other parts. One AC “B” which had been sitting in the woods for probably thirty years judging by the trees that were removed to extract it, freed right up after a bit of Kroil and a little time. Robert
Robert from Arcade,
First time I used Kroil was many years ago on a used boat trailer that had surge brakes. Got the trailer on the cheap since the surge brakes were frozen with rust. Sprayed the surge piston and surrounding parts twice and let sit overnight. Broke free and had no problems in the many years I used that trailer.
kevin
BB:
I’m very intrested how your pistol turns out, and really enjoy your blogs on the vintage stuff. Even though the piston seal looks good, maybe it does need replacing? When the Luznik pistols were imported and sold for cheap a couple years ago, I obtained a few and they all had leather seals and were low powered like your Junior. The leather seals looked good on some of them as well, both the breech and the piston seals. Some of them like new, although one had tacks embeded into the seal. I replaced all the breech seals on mine with home made leather ones, except for one, and ultimately the piston seals too.I polished the compression tubes as well. All came up in power after that. On one of them I made a replacement delrin piston head and cut an O-ring groove into it maybe an 1/8″ from the top of the head. I then installed a thin O-ring into the groove.Also replaced the breech seal with a flat, shimmed O-ring. That one, despite all the tinkering is only a little more powerful than the original leather sealed ones. One of the leather piston sealed ones is really just as good.
I think JF’s suggestion of a service kit is a good one. It would be nice if you could get a spare factory spring , seals and maybe some hardware like screws and pins as an option when you purchased a gun. I like the fact that the Izzy m-513 came with those parts when I bought mine. Take care, Robert.
Kevin, Robert and DaveUK,
Dave caused me to make a closer inspection of the leather piston seal and I think he may have something. The lip is worn just enough to cause a compression loss. So I’ll probably make a replacement seal after all. You can’t buy new leather seals for these anymore.
B.B.
BB, I know this question probably does not make sense but: is it impossible to do an artillery hold with a gun with a very heavy trigger pull such as a RR(i’m saving for a good gun), because when I try, the effort required to pull the trigger forces the stock into my shoulder, eliminating any looseness, and I’m forced to grip the gun rather stiffly.
Thanks
HK
HK,
Your question make a lotm of sense. Not only does the Red Ryder have a heavy trigger, it is also a very light airgun. Those two things conspire to make the artillery hold impossible.
But the Red Ryder isn’t an accurate rifle to begin with, so you don’t gain anything with the artillery hold.
B.B.
I realize that it is a piece of uh…junk, but thanks for clearing it up. I just wanted to make sure I wasn’t missing a fundamental part of the hold.
HK
What are you talking about “junk”, I bought my first one (I’m 33)yesterday because they just lowered the price from 68$ (I’m in Canada) to 44,95$ at my local Wally, and I figured I couldn’t go wrong at 45$.
I think it’s the most fun you can have for 45$, everyone should have one, it should come standard when you reach a certain age. All things being equal it seems pretty accurate too, I’m missing my soda cans about once or twice in 20/25 shots at 35 feet.
I ordered a model 25 that should be here on monday (with an Izh-60) and being my first bb gun (I only had pellet guns) until yesterday I wasn’t sure if it was money well spent and now I can’t wait to try it out !
J-F
Wally World had RR’s for sale because they were in a box, and they went to plastic clamshells for packaging on the newer ones so it was only $30. Ironic that it was on sale because it came in superior packaging.
It may not be accurate, but it is accurate enough, and fun as hell.
30$ wow and I was happy to get it for 45$ lol.
I’m not sure the Canadian Wal-Marts are converting to anything regarding airguns.
We don’t get the same stuff you guys get. Here they MAY (if your lucky) have 4 different models of airrifles, no handguns, between 6 or 8 airsoft guns and NO firearm E-V-E-R oh my god that would be so terrible ! Airguns are all locked up so they don’t really need the bubble packaging BUT if they do are making the move to this horrible packaging thing maybe it means we’ll be getting more airguns (hey I can always dream 😉 ) !
J-F
J-F,
Speak for yourself! I have seen firearms at Wal-Marts all over the U.S. Of course they have them in Texas and Oklahoma, but they also carry them in the People’s Republic of Maryland, according to Mac, who buys them frequently.
I think it is a regional decision.
B.B.
That’s why I said “Canadian Wal-Marts”… you guys have it good, us… not so much.
I’m not too far from the US border and used to go quite often (and shop a little 😉 ) and I and/or my parents still go quite often (they work from home so they can work from anywhere as long as there’s a wi-fi connection) and I can have some stuff shipped to me or them from PyramydAir while there and I go to sporting goods store to see if they may have good deals on stuff I can’t buy up here.
Since anything above 500 fps is considered a firearm here most store don’t carry them and since I don’t have the permits I couldn’t buy them anyways and being in the french speaking part of Canada we have laws requiring that all packaging and manuals be in both languages in our province so it limits the stuff we get even more.
When crossing the border back in Canada after a long stay in the US they rarely search the cars since we have the right to bring close to a 1000$ per person, of course you don’t have to tell them exactly what you’re coming back with, only the genral value of the stuff, airguns can be souvenirs too right ? :p
I also often order a few cigars from JRcigars but that’s another story.
A few years ago I had the most unique borde crossings ever :
I was going on vacation and when crossing the US border by car the US customs officer ask me the usual including if I had firearms in the car and I said no (because it was the truth and I didn’t have any) BUT I was planing on buying one or two airguns so I had an empty rifle case in the trunk, so when he asked me to pop open the trunk of the car I knew it could be “special”, I saw him unsnap his holster and put his hand on his gun asking (more like ordering and he was right to do so) me to get out of the car, I told him “it’s empty” before opening the door, he relaxed a bit, I got out, he weigthed the thing clearly seeing it was empty and asked me to open it to make sure it was, and asked me what it was for. So I explained him what it was for and he was the nicest customs officer I had ever seen and we chated a bit and told me to go check out the kittery trading post, very close to where I was going. GREAT advice ! I would have spent my whole vacation time in there, so many great things…
I ended up buying a benjamin 397 and a winchester replica bb gun made by Daisy, I still have both and think about that experience every time I use them.
J-F
Artillery hold with a stiff trigger? You might try this: Position the thumb of your trigger hand behind the trigger guard. Then fire by squeezing your trigger finger and thumb toward each other. This will keep the effort contained in the trigger area, rather than transfering the force to your shoulder.
The Red Ryder is no piece of junk. It’s a gun that does what it was designed to do very well, for the market segment it is sold to. Don’t expect so much of it.
Les
The only problem I see with the Red Ryder (and if the model 25 is as good) is I’ll REALLY need to get the 499 now !
On my M25 when a kid, it had a stiff trigger with lots of creep. I learned to take out the creep by placing the 2nd joint of my index finger over the trigger and squeezing slowly to just shy of let-off. Then releasing the trigger was a simple, easy matter that didn’t impact POA. It took a bit of practice but was worth the effort. I’ll have to get out my newer RR and try it again.
Replacing the main spring in a Marksman 0035.
Is there an old blog or a manual that will help me? This is my first attempt to work on a springer. I bartered for this gun, a phase 1 1377, a Pell Master 700 and a 760. Not bad for 35 bucks on my side of the barter. The 1377 works great, the Pell Master leaks like a sieve, its CO2.
The Marksman shoots but at very low velocities, maybe like the 1377 at 2-3 pumps. I guess my first question should be can I still get parts for the rifle before I tear into it.
Any help would be appreciated,
(newbie) Gene
What velocity do you get with cpl or equivalent?
Mine shoots in the mid 500’s.
twotalon
I have no idea, I do not have a chronograph. I just feel it is not working correctly. I can shoot it at my trap and I can hear the impact from only 30-40 feet away. I shot into a piece of plywood and it penetrated maybe an 1/8 of an inch, I pulled the pellet out w/o any trouble with my fingers. ( I told ya I don’t have a chronograph, lol) The rifle is in very poor shape, no sites, no muzzle break, stock has deep scrapes, rust every where. The guy I just got it from cocked it and shot into my floor, with no pellet. I am sure it has been dry shot many times. When I cock it it is way easy to cock, maybe 1/4 of what my Gamo and Walthers do. I tested it with cheap crosman pellets.
Mine came with a hooded front sight, open rear sight. Front sight can take different inserts.
No brake. 1/8″ into plywood would be about right. You should get a pellet to penetrate about flush in soft pine, depending on how it hits the grain.
Don’t try to compare to a gamo springer. This is far from a magnum gun.
A stronger spring would probably take out the sear. It is very small.
I would say, just oil it up good and shoot it.
twotalon
You are correct, I got my first springer this winter, now have 3 plus this Marksman, the other 3 are 1000f/s rifles. I would guess it may be shooting in the 400s..?? I have not oiled it yet, that may help alot, I have been trying to get the rust off the outside first. What a mess it is. Thanks for the help.
This is what I would call a ‘barn gun’. The old wooden barns with boards covering the rafters then the roof covering (usually sheet metal).
Pretty safe for shooting without punching holes in the roof. Pellets hitting wood would often bounce back.
Enough power for sparrows and starlings, but not much bigger.
It is a gun any kid can have fun with, but not much range.
Easy to cock and shoot. Was never intended as an adult airgun as far as I can guess. Just something a kid can get in trouble with.
twotalon
For a change I’m doing some of BB’s work today.
When I was a kid, my neighbor had a little Crosman, I think. Pellets would come back at you real fast off of those old boards.
I have no idea how many pellets had been through it , but it was still shooting after the breech wore down so much that the sights could not be used due to upwards droop. That’s a lot of wear.
My 0035 has some spring buzz, very light recoil. I put a little moly on the sear, and have oiled it a few times. Good little shooter if you don’t want power.
Hope yours is only damaged on the outside.
twotalon
Gene,
Help- me! I don’t know what a Marksman 0035 is.
B.B.
Spanish made. Sold by wallyworld maybe 15 yrs ago. Small rifle, easy to cock, a 5yr old could shoot it all day.
twotalon
Yes, made in Spain, and it has a little pentagon with a little “f” in it. I think it was in one of your old blogs that that means it was made for Germany. It also says Huntington Beach, Ca. It really looks alot like my 2 Walther Force 1000’s, but lighter. Of course I do not know, but I read some where that it may have been made from 1968-1970, not sure where i read that, I have been googling the last few days, I get cornfused. One said it is a Gamo 400 “clone”. Again, not sure.
/blog/2008/3/crosman-2200-newold-stock/
3/4 the way down there is an off topic discussion about a Marksman, sounds just like mine. The little “f” even.
BB, the Marksman 0035 is a lower-powered gun made by Norica. It has the same basic (ad not-so-good) direct-sear trigger that’s in the Hammerli Storm and a bunch of other Norica’s and Shanghai clones. Fortunately the trigger is a bit better on this model with the lighter mainspring than when fitted to a gun with a heavier powerplant.
I believe that the gun is mechanically similar to the Norica young, and that the same basic gun was also sold by Beeman as the GT600, GT650, and GT700 (with minor variations – not sure what they were)
Hi BB!
I have several Webley’s Pistols and recently I bought a Chrony. I discovered that most airguns FPS are way below the manufacturer specs.
For my Webley Hurricane .22 the average is 335 fps. The Webley Tempest .177 has an average of 439 fps. For the Webley Junior (with its leather seals rebuild), the average I have is 149 fps.
It is difficult to know if it is up where it should be for the Junior as I didn’t find any documentation and even my question to Webley was left unanswered.
I suppose that, as this pistol was intended for kids, the power will probably be about the same as modern spring softair (meaning fairly low). It also make sense, the Webley and Tempest are full power airgun for adult and have a stronger spring (higher cocking effort) and that also can be felt when those guns are fired.
My number for the Junior might not be the actual value from when the pistol was new but at least it will give you a comparison basis for what you are trying to achieve.
If other people have numbers for the Webley Junior, it might help to establish a level of expectation for the average fps obtainable.
Good luck.
Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete,
If you read my earlier report on a pre-war Webley Junior you would see that the velocity was 331 f.p.s. with Hobbys. So both your gun and mine are shooting very slow.
/blog/2010/05/webley-junior-part-2/
B.B.
BB,
I read the report but I am still not convinced that all of the Webley Junior kicking around will ever achieve this type of velocity. Maybe the example you had was exceptional.
It is impossible to obtain the manufacturer specification of the time but from what I have seen, through several forums, is that more than a few people are complaining of lack of power. Some people experienced the same situation I had where the pellet stays in the barrel and using used pellets in good shape improves it.
Also cocking the Junior is really easy, my youngest son doesn’t have any problem with that, but he wouldn’t be able to cock the Hurricane nor the Tempest. The stiffness of the spring has to be reflected somewhere and in the case of the Junior it is probably in the low velocity.
Sorry to disagree with you because I really enjoy reading all your reports.
Regards.
Pistol Pete
Pistol Pete,
It wasn’t standard practice to include velocities back when the Junior was being made. So there were probably no ads of velocity for the gun.
I purposely backed off the velocity I had tested when I stated (in the review of the second Junior) that I thought something in the 250 to 275 range sounded about right for light pellets. 150 is definitely too slow.
B.B.
Fused what s new with your accuracy !? Try to sort pellets -any damaged or “squshed” will in my experience : ) be “flyer” so try to make a group by sorting pellets… and update me, my spring will come but for two weeks, for now 631 will do 🙂
Gene,
B.B. wrote a 13 piece series on tuning spring guns. You can find a link to them in the archived blogs at /blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tuning-part-10-lubrication-and-reassembly/. If they don’t answwer your question, please get back to us.
Mr B.
thank you, I just knew he had talked of it before, but I could not find it. I will bookmark it, if not for the Marksman, for future reference.
Thanks.
If you want to moly the sear, it’s easy.
Just pull the trigger and the sear swings right out in the open.
twotalon
B.B.
Picture of 0035 coming your way.
twotalon
b.b.or R9 repair guys, i was shooting my R9 last night when it became very hard to cock, took it out of stock and the spring was broke. im wondering where to get new spring,should i replace seal while inside is kit available. would give up some proformance for smoother easyer cocking it did crony 875 w/7.9 cpl. any help greatly appriated please forgive gramar. thanks eric in ok
eric in ok,
Before you place your parts order, tear the gun down and look at the piston seal. That will answer your question about whether to order a seal at the same time as a spring. This is a non issue if you decide to go the vortek route. You’ll also need the 3 basic lubes. Maccari sells these in a kit.
Have you considered sending it to a tuner? There are a lot of reasonably priced tuners out there that have the seals, springs, lubes and know how to to smooth out the shot cycle in an R9 and while there at it they can make that rekord trigger everything it can be. You can even discuss various spring types with these tuners if you want to make it a really smooth shooter with easier cocking effort.
kevin
Eric,
Get a spring or tune kit from Jim Maccari https://www.airrifleheadquarters.com/page/page/251327.htm or Vortek http://www.vortekproducts.com/home
I’ve sorta been out of touch (comparatively) for awhile. I used to cause some discussions (minor uproars 🙂 ) it was fun! After some minor health issues and then computer equipment problems I may try and amuse you some more. I will try and hold it for weekend blogs though.
I did come across this one quote (sorry), that I would like to share before the weekend if you don’t mind:
“A child who is protected from all controversial ideas is as vulnerable as a child who is protected from every germ. The infection, when it comes- and it will come- may overwhelm the system, be it the immune system or the belief system.”
Jane Smiley
rikib
Rikib,
So what you’re saying is that first you caught a virus, then gave it to your computer? Hmmm…
Good quote, nice to have you back.
KA
KA
Guess so 🙂 power surge protector didn’t help! I must be more static than I realize, blew the transformer on the pole right outside my house 😉 . I’ll have to be more careful I guess. 🙂
rikib
KA,
It did make for some good sound effects, dogs didn’t like it much though 😉 . I was lucky I only lost a modem. Still got all my trees intact.
rikib
I know there are a few of us on here from Georgia. I was wondering if after the relax in gun carrying has crime increased in your areas? I live in SWGA, and I’m all for having guns but for some reason since this change we have had so much crime going on. Gun shop owners saying they are having record sales. I know criminals will find weapons anyway they want but, what would cause such an increase in crime relate to the same time frame as relax gun laws? It almost seems as though you will have to carry a gun to go anywhere. Is this what we want? We have had 3 Dollar General Stores robbed in 2 weeks and a couple grocery stores. One store was broken into and the only thing they got away with was some toothpaste and deodorant (sounds funny but it’s not). What is becoming of our Nation?
rikib
I don’t mean this to sound political, sorry if it does.
rikib
“What is becoming of our Nation?”
Better-smelling armpits and whiter teeth, apparently. :->
It is surprising that smash and grab thieves are so concerned with personal hygiene. At least if they stole Scope TM they could get drunk off it. On a happier note perhaps they will overdose on the Fluoride.
rikib,
What the gun shops in Georgia are observing is a Darwinian correction reaction to the increased crime. We have them everywhere crime increases and state laws try to legislate gun ownership.
In the state of Virginia there was a huge drop in violent crimes after the concealed carry laws went into effect. But neighboring Maryland experienced no such drop. Their gun laws are Draconian. And Washington D.C. that is sandwiched in between them is known as the “Murder Capitol of the U.S.,” for having the highest per-capita rate. Though the Supreme Court has ruled against them, the local government of D.C is still violently opposed to private gun ownership. Apparently it’s too much competition for the criminals they coddle. Only politicians and celebrities can possess guns there.
B.B.
BB
Just look at Chicago, the city whose law that the Supreme Court Decision was decided on. They completely ban handguns, and yet they still have one of the highest murder rates in the country! If you read the playbook, it says that banning handguns is not enough apparently, due to the murders. Now you must ban all guns.
Our once and still great country has lost its way. Some of our representatives have a flagrant disregard, if not outright contempt for both our Constitution and the Declaration of Independence.
We must know who we are electing. And remember to vote them out when they break their word. Knowing means taking the time to learn. Who wants to spend time learning when American Idol or Dancing with the Stars is on?
Banning guns just bans them from law abiding citizens. Criminals don’t care if their weapons are banned or not. I think part of the problem is that first time offenders or juveniles basically just get a slap on the wrist and are told not to do that again. Somehow, somewhere criminals/prisoners obtained more rights than law abiding citizens.
rikib
A little update to my interaction with Crosman about the stock on my Marauder.
They sent me an email this morning to tell me that after viewing the picture I sent them of my stock, they will be sending me a new stock!
As far as I’m concerned, this is excellent customer service. This will allow me to keep shooting my rifle without having to send it off (though they did offer to swap the stock for me if I didn’t think I could do it myself).
Great company to deal with. 🙂
Im something of an expert with the old Webley variants.
That looks a nice Junior before the paint job and alloy variants. It should reach about 350fps and almost match the quoted 360fps webley quoted.
It can be tuned by turning up a slim fit PTFE washer and adding a slight thrust washer to the mainspring for about 380fps
Thanks, Rick.
I’m going to have to make a new leather seal for it and I’m not yet ready to do that, but I will think about your modification when I do.
B.B.
Pleasure…..its not the washer material thats important (they can all run similarly with right lubrication) but the thickness. Less thickness creating more volume of air…vital in small internals like this.
I machined up a new fixing bolt with slim head and made my washer 3.6mm thick.
I have heard of Juniors making 400fps with pistons modified shorter but you can only go so far with all this before you run out of cocking slot and you get a smash up .
Great Part 3 Lesson in dissasembly. Very simple design. I just purchased a Junior at an Antique fair. Fab condition. Very much like your example.But mine has a small loss on the bottom of the grip! Took it apart, found it to be very nice inside,no problems!Seal & other parts looked as well if not better than your example. Fired it at 25 Yards at a shoebox lid hung on a nail in the old Maple tree out back. Has a fair kick to it. Not like my CO2 Crossman 357 but good enough to “HIDE” a couple of squirrels. SKRINK,,
I have one of those. Bought it secondhand in the 1960s – cost 10 shillings then. Still works OK. I give it a plink down the garage now and then. Can usually hit within a 6 inch circle at about 20 feet.