Diana 48/52

by B.B. Pelletier

I can’t believe I haven’t reviewed this classic air rifle, but last week a reader named Bob pointed out that I hadn’t. I call it a rifle, singular, because the wood stock is the only thing that differentiates the two models. Both models have the same action, and Diana used to make the action with both numbers.

History
The Beeman R1 quickly took over as the baddest airgun in town in 1982, with an initial muzzle velocity of 950 f.p.s. in .177. Before that, Diana had one of the most powerful guns in their model 45, which could sometimes get up to 850. In the mid-1980s, Diana brought out the model 48 sidelever, which had an advertised velocity of 1,100 f.p.s. in .177. I have tested them in that caliber, and you actually can achieve it with light lead pellets. By that time, the basic R1 had climbed to 1,000 f.p.s. in .177, plus Beeman had a Laserized model that just made 1,100. However, you had to have that done as an option or you had to install the Laser kit yourself. Diana was back on top.

A quick caliber rundown
The 48/52 has been produced in all four smallbore calibers but is currently available only in .177 and .22. The .25 was disappointing for its low relative power, and I guess the .20 didn’t sell well. The .177 is popular with shooters who compete in field target and is often purchased by people unfamiliar with adult airguns who are attracted by the high but unusable velocity. Once they discover supersonic pellets are inaccurate, they have the ability to go to heavier pellets and shoot them under 1,000 f.p.s. with a lot of power. Twenty-two caliber has always been the best caliber of all for this air rifle. It’s best at using the available power, and it seems to shoot smoothest of all, though a tuned gun in any caliber can be very smooth.

Light cocking
For the power, I think the 48/52 cocks easier than any other spring gun. The ads say 39 lbs., but I have registered as little as 32 on some of them. The gun does have a healthy kick. Some I have shot also had a lot of vibration, while others were very smooth, so I guess it depends on the individual gun. A ratchet safety holds the sliding compression chamber until a button in the stock is deliberately pressed; and, while it is quite a simple arrangement, it works very well. Remember to press the button after loading, or the sidelever won’t budge.

Power
I registered a high of 22.73 foot-pounds of muzzle energy from a new .22 caliber model 48 when shooting 14.3-grain Crosman Premiers. That’s a velocity of 846 f.p.s., which is an ideal speed for a pellet. I never tested the gun with JSB Exacts, but I certainly would today. They would go a little slower and produce a little less energy, too. A new .177 caliber model 52 I tested got 1040 f.p.s. with 7.9-grain Crosman Premiers. That works out to 18.98 foot-pounds.

Accuracy
This rifle has a deserved reputation for accuracy. The Bullseye Airgun Club in Louisiana used to have a huge contingent of shooters who shot 48s and 52s in field target competition. All were .177, of course. I personally have found the rifle quite accurate in both calibers but somewhat touchy as to how it is held. The trigger is usually under three pounds and a delight to use. With adjustments, it can get much lighter. A shooter who knows his gun can give a good accounting of himself with this gun in either caliber.

Potential for improvement
These guns respond well to a tuneup. I like to lower their power by 10 percent and eliminate all the vibration, and then they are a real delight to shoot. Hunters will find that they readily accept aftermarket sling swivels because of the solid stock. Ditto for bipod users.

Weaknesses
All Diana spring airguns have a weak scope mounting system. Little thought has been given to it, and there is no intrinsic scope stop anchor point like every other quality airgun has. You work around the problem by hanging the stop pin over the front of the raised ramp. Why Dianawerke doesn’t wake up and change this half-century-old system is a mystery to me. Although, I confess that I sometimes cheat and just back the rear mount up to the large screwhead in back of the ramp and hope it doesn’t shear off, as they are known to do.

I hope this report makes up for my oversight in never covering this model. It’s a very nice spring gun with lots of power and accuracy. If it tickles your fancy – go for it!

190 thoughts on “Diana 48/52

  1. I’m a long, tall fellow at 6’3″+. Would you reccommend the 52 with the inch longer stock? My checkbook wouldn’t mind getting by with the less expensive 48, but I want to purchase a gun of this price just once so I want to get it right.


  2. I’ve had my 52 in .22 for a little over a month now and love it more each day.

    It may not be the best air rifle in the world, but it combines looks, power, and accuracy in a very affordable package.

    You mentioned: “All Diana spring airguns have a weak scope mounting system. Little thought has been given to it, and there is no intrinsic scope stop anchor point like every other quality airgun has. You work around the problem by hanging the stop pin over the front of the raised ramp.”

    Could you explain this in a little more detail?

    I have a 52 and a scope stop but I’ll be damned if I can figure out how to install it properly.

    A couple of pictures (if possible) would be greatly appreciated.

    Keep up the good work.



  3. You can’t figure out how to install your scope stop because there IS no way to do it porperly. That’s what I was saying in the posting.

    You have to use a one-piece scope mounts and hang the scope stop pin in front of the ramp. That is the only way to retard the rearward movement of the scope mounts. No amount of clamping pressure alone will hold the mount. There has to be a positive mechanical stop.

    That is the problem I was referring to.

    B.B.


  4. hey i was looking around and seen a new rifle/air shotgun from gamo and i thought to myself an air shotgun? yeah the specs on it says its a smoothbore and its in .22 and is called the “Viper Express” well its a springer and have the rib top like a shotgun and i was wondering does it work? and how far is its effective range. what size shot it uses. well i have a .22 rimfire that uses shot shells from cci and i wanted a lower report so i wont disturb the neighbors. thanks later.



  5. Regarding the scope stop:

    I see now, thanks. Your initial write up made it sound like you could use a stop.

    Adding to my confusion is that I have been using a 2-piece and it seems fine as is, having put about 250-300 shots through it with no stop.

    Is a 2 piece setup simply insufficient for the 48/52 in your opinion?

    Thanks


  6. If you use a 2-piece mount, which I normally prefer, you have to hang the recoil stop pin in front of the ramp. That usually puts half the ring off the mount, and it looks funny. It may work, if you have a mount with a long base.

    B.B.


  7. Hey B.B.
    I was wondering, you mentioned in your post that with adjusting the trigger can get lighter?

    Is there any way to lighten the trigger of a CF-X?

    Your section on tuning was great, although my CF-X still sounds the same (must just be me)

    Keep up the great work


  8. Re: Scope Stop

    I’m using a B-SQUARE 11.7 mm recoil stop block.

    I now have it hanging off the front…doesn’t look too goofy. We’ll see how it goes.

    Thanks


  9. Your separate scope stop will do nothing in that position. It needs to be behind one of the rings, which will try to move backwards.

    B.B.


  10. Dave,

    The CF-X has an adjustable trigger, doesn’t it? Are you saying that is doesn’t adjust?

    That doesn’t surprise me, as their trigger is not a great design. However, they do loosen with shooting.

    B.B.


  11. Dave,

    Arte you saying that your CF-X trigger doesn’t adjust?

    That trigger is a weakness in all Gamo rifles. They know it, too!

    I do know that they loosen with time, but they will never be in the Rikeod class.

    B.B.


  12. Dave,

    For your CF-X, I strongly suggest you look into a GRT-III trigger from Charlie’s Springer Works.

    cost is about $30 and is well worth it.



  13. If you check around you can get a 48 for $289 and a 52 for 340 at Midsouth Shooter’s Supply. There’s one or two other places that have them for about the same or a lil more.


  14. Anonymous,

    Yeah, I’ve seen a few around that are moderately cheaper priced, however…..those businesses don’t sponsor this blog and this blog has been very informative to me. It’s worth supporting businesses that support me and my hobby.

    It might not pay to think this way in a financial sense, but in an ethical sense the dividends are great. Just my humble opinion.



  15. David,

    I have spoken to them many times in the past week. Their switchboard is so busy that they are rolling calls to an answering machine.

    B.B.


  16. BB,

    Good to know. Maybe I’ll try calling every hour or so with better results. Glad they’re doing well business wise, that’ll drive down prices for consumers :)

    I’m thinking about replacing my Legacy 1000 with a Webley Xocet (maybe the carbine). My dad is set on the RWS 34 I think, but the Xocet looks to be a good one. I noticed there’s no review of it, but do you have any experience with the Xocet or the Xocet carbine in 22cal? I was wondering if there were any disadvantages to the carbine, as I’d love to have a smaller, lighter gun if there are no drawbacks. I figure it might help accuracy with a shorter lock time, but does the shorter barrel hurt accuracy just by being shorter? It looks to be ~12″ or so from other sites, which should be plenty for a springer right?

    -david


  17. david,

    I’ve not tested an Xocet, but I have shot a Tomahawk, and it was typical Webley quality – which is to say good.

    The disadvantage to any spring piston carbine is harder cocking, of course. The lock time is identical. The pellet dwell time in the barrel is less, but a proper hold can account for that.

    Yes, a 12″ barrel is long enough for a springer.

    B.B.


  18. Hello B.B.

    A little off topic, but I was wondering if there was somewhere to send used 12g CO2 cartridges to be refilled/recycled. They seem well built and I hate to send this kind of stuff to the landfill.

    jw


  19. Nope,

    Like flashbulbs and toilet paper, once used, no longer any good.

    Some people make windchimes out of them. I bet a crafter would like to get some.

    B.B.


  20. B.B.

    If you were to choose between an RWS 34 and a Webley Xocet, which would you choose? I’ve got a feeling you’d choose the Xocet from reading this blog for a while now, but I could be wrong…

    -David


  21. BB, I was surprised to hear you mention a sling for a springer. I assume it’s just for carry and no serious springer shooters are trying to use them as elbow anchors when actualy shooting, or am I mistaken and it can be used and shot accuaratly in that way?


  22. Thanks for the write up on this model. I really wanted a 48 in .22, but my wallet won out, and I got a CFX instead. Somebody mentioned the Charlie Da Tuna trigger for the CFX earlier, can’t say enough good things about it. I put a GTX-II on my CFX, difference was night and day. Just got word today that the new GRT-III is now available, will be sending off my order tomorrow. Two off topic items. Someone questioned putting a large scope on a CFX in a previous post. I have a Leapers 3-12X44 on my rifle, with Leapers one peice high mount. Great combo, although I can’t use the flip up scope covers. No problems with loading that way. BB, you’ve made several comments in other posts about Beeman Crow Magnum and Silver Arrow pellets not being accurate. Does that apply to the Silver Ace as well? So far the best 3 pellets in my CFX, in order, are JSB Match Diabolo S100′s (8.26 gr.), JSB Exact Diabolo (8.4 gr.) and finally, Beeman Crow Magnums (8.8 gr.). Is it worth trying the Silver Aces? Thanks.


  23. David,

    Yes, I would choose the Xocet. That’s based on the Webley barrel. When the Turks start making them that opinion goes away until I test one.

    B.B.


  24. Turtle,

    On a sporting air rifle, yes, the sling is just for carry. On an Olympic target rifle, it’s seriously used for bracing.

    B.B.


  25. daved,

    Back in the 1970s, the Beeman Silver Ace was one of the top pellets in the world. I see no reason why you shouldn’t try it.

    B.B.


  26. b.b., ive only had a crosman 760 all my life and i think i broke it. i feel its time for me to buy a new airgun. I would like to buy an accurate spring piston pellet gun for bird and small animal hunting, i.e. small squirrel. what rifle would u recomend that is within 100 to 200 dollars, thanks


  27. b.b., I would like to have a .22 cal. or possibly .20, the diana 48/52 looks like a good gun but pricy,i think, i’ve read many of your articles and i’m fairly sure i want about 750-850 fps, but im not sure about knock down power. altogether i want a cheap, accurate, .22 cal. spring piston air rifle, is there such a thing in the 100 to 200 dollar price range? and if so would u recomend it?


  28. b.b., i am starting to wonder about using a spring piston airgun, i’ve only used a crosman 760 for a few years and it was my first airgun. jumping up to a spring piston now looks like a big leap. do u think i should practice with a spring piston, or stay with a multipump(and if so, which one?)

    P.S. sorry for this long message and the other 3, but you could consider me relatively new to this. I had always thought of all airguns as bb guns, used for occasional fun but not very accurate. Reading your blogs has really sparked an interest in me, seeing as its 4:00 in the morning, yep its 4 here not five.

    Insomniac


  29. b.b, price is a big matter too, i’ll save up for a 200 dollar gun and then more for accessories, but i don’t have a job yet. to afford another gun i’m applying for jobs seeing as noone well just give money.

    Insomniac



  30. .22 spring gun,

    There are a few cheap Chinese spring guns in .22 caliber that sell for less than $200, but I wouldn’t receommend them if you want to hit what you’re shooting at.

    I know you want a springer, but on a limited budget, a Benjamin 392 is a much better buy, and it’s accurate. All the inexpensive spring guns with any accuracy are in .177 caliber only.

    B.B.


  31. Insomniac,

    I know what you are going through because it happens to me all the time, too. Believe me, an inaccurate gun is the last thing you want.

    There are two ways to get what you want and need right now. One is to buy used, which is risky for a new shooter. The other is to go with a multi-pump of known quality. That’s why I recommend the Benjamin 392. It has power and accuracy and the price won’t hurt as much

    I have owned a Sheridan Blue Streak, which is the .20 caliber equivalent of the Benjamin 392, for nearly 30 years. I have bagged rabbits at 35 yards with open sights with this rifle. It has killed more rats, mice, snakes and wasps than I can remember. If I were in your position today, I’d get a 392.

    B.B.


  32. thanks b.b., i liked the gamo cf-x, but its .177 caliber, and the benjamin sounds better for my needs.

    in your article “The Benjamin 392/397 – 60 years later!” you said the beeman was hard to pump. im fifteen and im not that strong, my arms aren’t the longest either. do you think i would have problems with the pumping or the pull?

    would pellgunoil be a good oil for this gun? and what about cleaning/repairing kits, are there any you would suggest over the ?

    paralax seems like it would be a hassle on a multi-pump, so would u suggest the crosman 64 peep sight or open sights instead of a scope?

    Insomniac



  33. b.b., i can’t find a way to buy the crosman 64 peep sight or the jsb diabolo exact jumbo pellets, are they out of stock? do you know of any place i may buy them? like walmart or a gun store anywhere?

    Insomniac




  34. Minnesota airgun laws are straightforward (I live in Minnesota).

    It is unlawful to possess, store, or keep a deadly weapon, BB gun or, or replica firearm on school property or on a school bus.

    It is unlawful to furnish a child under the age of 14 a firearm or airgun of any kind, or any ammunition or explosive without the parent or guardian’s permission. It is also unlawful for such child to handle or use a firearm or airgun of any kind or any kind of ammunition or explosive outside of a parent or guardian’s presence without permission.

    Any person carrying a loaded BB gun, rifle, or shotgun on or about their person, not expressly to or from the place where the firearms are bought, sold, traded, displayed, or where hunting, target shooting, or other lawful activity occurs, is guilty of a gross misdemeanor.

    Many municipalities have additional restrictions, such as requiring written permission from the property owner to hunt, may not discharge a firearm or airgun within city limits, etc. Thus, be sure to check with your local authorities as well.

    Ehrich


  35. thanks Ehrich, i appreciate your help. do you need a license to hunt for squirrels? or would an FAC work until your 16?

    Insomniac


  36. Insomniac,

    First thing – no cleaning is required.

    Second – you don’t have to pump all the weay up to enjoy the gun. And continued used will strengthen you.

    Third – I cannot find a Crosman 64 peep sight, but what you want for this rifle is the Williams peep.

    B.B.




  37. thanks b.b., i think that covers everything i need, unless u can suggest any accessories or other things that might go well with the 392

    Insomniac


  38. as it turns out, my parents get queasy whenever i mention buying something on the internet. they’re afraid someone will hack unto whatever system and steal their credit card number. i cannot persuade them that it is pretty safe.

    so i cannot buy a benjamin 392 from pyramydair.com, is there anywhere else that i could buy one at about the 140 dollar price range?

    i dont think they sell them in walmart, and im pretty sure they dont sell them anywhere in my small hometown. are there any gun stores, or other places (like fleet or cabelas) where i may buy one new?


  39. hey b.b., and anyone else who reads this, my parents don’t want to buy with their credit card, for ‘security’ reasons, does anyone know of a store in central MN where i could buy a benjamin 392? a new one around 150! not a used one around 100.

    Insomniac


  40. hey b.b.

    i’ve been reading a bit of your blogs for advice on a pellet gun. i ordered an RWS Diana 52 from a Canadian Dealer in British Columbia about 3 weeks ago.

    Well, i received it last week. I have a Bushnell Sportsman scope on it with some 100$ one piece scope mount (cant remember which brand, dad bought the mounts). Anyways, there is no scope stop pin in front or behind (i dont know what the pin should look like or how to install one anyhow) but the rear screw sits right behind the mounts and seems it should stop the mounts from moving.

    Maybe be it from the scope or just a bad gun, but at 30 yards I can’t seem to group better than 3 inches (10 shots). My dad can group 1/4 inch at 100yards with a .280 caliber rifle (not an airgun) and also cant seem to group better than 3 inches at 30 yards.

    We tried shooting open sights but we got no better results and it’s quite hard to shoot with the sights that come with the gun as they are very coarse.

    Any ideas as to what could be the problem? is it possible we got a bad rifle?




  41. if by spring gun technique you mean holding it very lightly and such, yes i have…and also its sitting on a bench rest and being shot off rifle sandbags…constant 3 inch groups. actually we had the mount elevated in back using a thin sheet of metal (to counteract barel droop) so we were going to try to remove that to make sure it wasnt causing inaccuracy, and as we went to cock the gun, the spring wouldn’t stay locked. we tried for a good 15 minutes to cock it but to no avail. the spring would just keep trying to push the lever forward. I think we just might have gotten a bad rifle. We are sending it back in a few days and hopefully the new one we get fairs better.

    Jay


  42. Jay,

    You cannot rest a Diana 52 directly on sandbags and expect it to shoot. You have to lay it on the flat of your open hand.

    Remember butting the scope mount against that rear screw? I think that may be the reason your rifle no longer cocked. The trigger assembly is just below that screw.

    And as for shimming the scope, that is why I recommend B-Square AA adjustable mounts for this model. They almost always shoot low. And hang the scop stop pin IN FRONT of the scope rail. It’s the only way to safely do it, so you obviously need one-piece rings.

    The next rifle you get, try the artillery hold – no sandbags, just your flat palm. That is the secret of accuracy in this rifle.

    Therte is no reason your dad should not be able to get a one-inch group from this rifle at 50 yards, shooting JSB Exacts and Beeman Kodiaks.

    B.B.



  43. What I did at the time was install a replacement spring I bought from Jim Maccari. Since he doesn’t sell springs any more, according to his website, I would buy one from John Groenewold.

    John Groenewold, PO Box 830, Mundelein, IL 60060-0830, (847) 566-2365

    B.B.


  44. Hi B.B. and All,

    I know Web pages don’t always get updated in a timely manner, so may be you have information about ARH LLC which hasn’t gotten around yet, or may be I’m not looking at the right Web page.

    What I’ve seen on Maccari’s Web page is, “We no longer sell, tune or repair airguns.” Other than that he appears to be doing business as usual.

    http://www.airguns.citymax.com/page/page/251328.htm

    Please do correct me if I’m wrong about that! I’ve been shopping for a short-list of .22 caliber air rifles, with one deciding factor, for some of the airguns, being availability of a tune kit or parts, from Air Rifle Headquarters.

    Thank you for providing info. about another source of mainsprings.

    Regarding the the dovetail mount base on the Diana RWS model 48/52, I feel obligated to share a cautionary note, with owners or future owners of the air rifle.

    I own a model 52 (date code: 03 91) and when I first purchased it I soon discovered the mount base shortcoming B.B. already mentioned plus one.

    Long, sad, embarrassing story… short version: The dovetail mount base appears to be attached with three screws, BUT those three inset screws, and therefore the entire mount base, are *not removable* by any ordinary means.

    This information has been verified, by one respected airgun tuner and one Diana RWS repair facility representative.

    So, forget about trying to shim beneath the rear of the dovetail mount base unless you really know machinist and airgun disassembly/reassembly type stuff.

    The work-around is to purchase a one-piece droop compensating scope mount, or a one-piece scope mount that’s adjustable for both elevation and windage. Then a scope can be mounted with its own elevation and windage adjustments near the center of their full range of travel.

    The downside to one-piece adjustable scope mounts… at least, to the one I own… is that *a lot of patience* is required, in order to get it properly adjusted. Seriously! On a DIY scale of 1 to 5 I’d rate the task a 6. After actually performing the task a few times I grudgingly give a high 4 or low 5 rating.

    Web shopping I’ve seen some ‘new’ two-piece scope mounts which appear to be adjustable in some ways, but I have no further knowledge or experience with them.

    Regarding the “scope stop anchor point”: the dovetail scope mount on my Diana 52 does have two shallow circular depressions (not quite real holes). The scope mount I used had a stop pin which could be and was drifted downward into the rear depression, with a pin punch. I never experienced any scope creep, but I don’t promise anyone else won’t.

    IMHO, the manufacturer should have rectified their anchor point shortcoming in their existing stock a long time ago, by simply drilling out those two shallow depressions, before mounting the base on the receiver tube. Then there would’ve been two honest-to-goodness anchor points in the mount base! Why haven’t they redesigned the mount base? Go figure.

    Last, but certainly not least, a quite serious word of *caution!* regarding the so-called ‘anti-beartrap’ mechanism, on this air rifle and others like it. I had one very frightening *user* ‘malfunction’ when I first got this air rifle.

    With the cocking lever in the loading position I was changing my grip on the rifle, in order to load a pellet, and grabbed hold of the rifle stock right on top of the ‘anti-beartrap’ latch release… WHAM! BAM! Yikes!

    Luckily the only damage was to my peace of mind, plus a dent in the rifle stock where the cocking lever first hit, and a gouge in the underside metal of the cocking lever where it hit the front pull rod hinge, on its second bounce.

    This ‘malfunction’ was entirely my fault… user error! The ‘anti-beartrap’ latch on my Diana 48/52 has never failed to function properly. But, from that point forward I’ve also never assumed it, or I, wouldn’t malfunction.

    I never have my fingers anywhere near the loading port unless my left hand is gripping the rifle stock far away from the latch release, and the cocking lever, in the downward/loading position, is firmly secured behind my right leg. I’m not a contortionist so the only way I can do that is in a sitting position.

    Sorry for the post length! I promise to try not to post very often. {grin}

    Cheers,
    GH


  45. GadgetHead,

    I just misread the announcement. I think what happend is he put it up and the forums said he was out of business, and I listened to them.

    Thanks for setting the record straight. Maccari’s ARH is the place to go for all springs lubes and similar supplies.

    B.B.


  46. Hi B.B.,

    Well, I certainly hope the ARH Web page is correct and Air Rifle Headquarters still make and sell all their goodies.

    I want to correct a possible misconception about the one-piece adjustable scope mount I wrote about in my long post. As I look at it now, it’s possible to think I mean that all adjustable one-piece scope mounts are seriously difficult to set up.

    I don’t have experience with all adjustable mounts. The adjustable one-piece scope mount I own that’s seriously difficult to adjust is as old or older than my Diana 52. It’s a RWS “C” Mount.

    It’s both elevation and windage adjustable, but the windage adjustment isn’t obvious. Changing the windage setting always messes up the elevation setting. The mount design and the setup instructions left a lot to be desired.

    As you mentioned in your “Tuesday, January 17, 2006 Adjustable scope mounts” blog, I can certainly see how improperly adjusting the elevation, on the particular “C” mount I own, could easily bend the scope tube. Luckily I never did.

    From Web site pictures I’ve seen of the current RWS “C” mount I can tell it has been redesigned. The ‘new’ ones look almost totally different than the old product I own.

    For all intents and purposes that product redesign renders moot my comments about serious setup difficulty. I sure hope the redesigned RWS “C” Mount works better and has better instructions for setup.

    However, at present I don’t personally plan to find out about that. I’m going to try out one or another of the B-Square adjustable scope mounts.

    Cheers,
    GH


  47. GH,

    The RWS “C” mount has been made by several factories for RWS. In the begining it was Korean, then they shifted to a mount-maker in Australia. A few years ago, B-Square purchased the Australian company and moved all the machinery to Ft. Worth. They had to recalibrate the CNC machines and I think they did redesign the mount at that time. As the maker of the AA mount, they know how it shoud work.

    Anyway, it’s nice to get the rest of the story.

    B.B.


  48. BB, can you offer any guidance on deciding between a RWS 48 and a HW 57? If I understand correctly, the 57 is a bit nicer choice especially if you don’t need the power of the 48.


  49. I know the 48, but not the 57. Since it’s a Weihrauch gun it should be fine, but I have no experience with it.

    From the specs I see the power is around 13.5, which is fine for general shooting.

    B.B.


  50. How’s the trigger on a 48? the 57 has the “rekord” which I believe you have commented on somewhere else. Also, is it true that a fixed barrel gun is at least somewhat less hold sensitive than a break barrel?



  51. B.B.

    I was wondering if you had could point me toward any websites selling original RWS parts.
    In my case I’m looking for a new rear site for my RWS 52 as the old one is broken, I am mounting a scope so it doesn’t matter that much.

    Some Random Person



  52. B.B.,

    I just sent out an order for pellets in .22 caliber taking advantage of Pyramid Air’s buy 3 get the 4th one free. I bought the box of Crosman Premiers domed, RWS Hobby, JSB Exacts Jumbo (the 19 grain heavy ones), and some Beeman Kodiaks extra heavy. I think you mentioned the Premiers, Kodiaks and JSB exacts. Most of the RWS pellets are pretty good too. Are there any other pellets you could suggest that would perform really well for a Diana 48 in .22 caliber? Maybe a top 10 list. I’d like to get another 4 to 8 tins to experiment with. I really enjoy weighing them, firing them through a chronograph and calculating their energy lol. Shooting for accuracy isn’t bad either but I drink way too much coffee to have a steady hold. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

    Shawn


  53. Shawn,

    I don’t have a top 10 list. It seems you have bought all the ones I would recommend, except I would recommend the JSB Exact 15.9-grain instead of the 19 grain that I’ve not heard of.

    B.B.



  54. So BB, how does the XS-B 30 compare to the Diana 48 in terms of performance? Just wondering as the 48 usually does need a tune as you mentioned and the B30 would as well.Seeing as the B 30 sells for less than half the price of the 48, how much less are you getting from a practical standpoint? I have bought three Chinese air rifles recently , all new, a RWS 320, a QB-78, and a Crosman Quest and all have been a joy to own and shoot.By the way, I very much enjoy your reviews.




  55. When compensating for elevation, do the same mechanics apply as for
    front and rear iron sights? In other words, if the rear scope ring
    is raised or shimmed, will that raise the point of impact? If the
    front of the scope tube is elevated, will the point of impact be lowered? Maybe not a practical solution, but I have read of tapered scope mounts.
    Thanks,
    Don


  56. Don,

    You got it right.

    This is why I use B-Square AA adjustable scope mounts. The rings are gimballed, so when they are not in alignment, they can tip forward and back to ease the strain of misalignment.

    B.B.


  57. Mr. BB., I just got a brandnew RWS 48 and it is quite wonderful. What I want to know is where do I put the oil in at to oil the mainspring? I don’t see any hole or port to place the oil or where is it located at. Thank you..

    JB of Ga..


  58. JB,

    First of all, don’t oil, the rifle for at least a year! Diana air rifles use a special seal material that doesn’t need much oil.

    When it’s time to oil, cock the rifle and look at the front of the sliding chamber that will be way back in the receiver tube. In the center of the sliding chamber is a hole. This is called the transfer port. Drop one drop (NO MORE!) of RWS Chamber Lube into the transfer port and uncock the rifle. Then cock it it and uncock it in several attitudes to spread the oil evenly around the piston seal.

    After this, shoot the rifle about 20 times to further spread the oil

    B.B.


  59. Mr BB,where do I put the spring cylinder oil for the rws48? and my instructions says put 6 drops for this Is chamber oil and cylinder oil is the same? I’m sorry for all the questions but I’m new at this.

    Thank you
    JB of GA


  60. JB,

    Once again, your rifle mainspring won’t need to be oiled for about a year.

    When it does, remove the action from the stock which exposes the spring through a hole in the tubular action. That’s where the drops go. It may look dry to you now, but your rifle is full of synthetics that provide a lot of their own lubrication. If you lubricate the rifle too much it will begin dieseling and that’s difficult to cure.

    B.B.


  61. B.B., I have some limited experience with the 54, is it true the only real difference is the shifting action? Also you mention this gun’s accuracy, would you consider it worthy of 20,30,36, and 45 yard sillhouettes? I’m a 10m shooter but I’d like to have a more powerful gun AND I’m going to start sillhouette soon so I need a gun that is better than the 10m. Your thoughts? This caught my eye as quality, accurate, and relatively cheap. Have I got the right idea?
    Thanks alot-C


  62. C,

    An RWS Diana 54 is a wonderful air rifle, but it has many times more power than you need for silhouette. I’ve used 12 foot-pound rifles very successfully on 45-yard rams.

    Also the cocking effort of the 54 will wear you out in a match. Take a look at the Air Arms S200 for silhouette. If you want a springer, the 54 is a great rifle but too powerful. If you could get it detuned to 12-14 foot-pounds you might have something!

    B.B.


  63. Woops, somewhere I got mixed up, I meant I’m considering the 48. The power difference is nil there though. I’m not too worried about a 35-ish lb cocking effort, call me crazy, but I found the effort required with the 54 to be…well…pleasant with the right technique. *Grin* Power’s a good thing, as I plan on hunting small stuff at longer range (60ish yards tops) with it (yes, I know how you feel about the .177, but I assure you I’m not taking on anything bigger than a crow). My concern’s accuracy, which after reading around quite a bit more I’ve learned is going to be quite good.
    Nice write up, too.
    -C


  64. BB,

    Just received a Diana 48, and right out of the box, I had a problem in which the sidelever would cock to about the 80-90% point — and then stop. I had to manually pull the sidelever back an extra 1/2″ or so while pressing the lever safety to release and return the sidelever to its seated position. I had to do this 8-10 times before the rifle started to cock properly.

    After about 50 shots, the lever cocking problem returned, and I was unable to cock the gun.

    Additionally, while cocking the gun, there was a “roller coaster car” clank-clank-clank noise as the sidelever was pressed (I did not believe this was normal, and this was later confirmed for me).

    So, less than 24 hours after receiving the rifle, it’s back on its way to RWS for exchange.

    Just curious if you had an opinion as to what the problem was. I read all these glowing reviews about the 48, and then — my luck — I get the lemon.

    Disappointed,
    -jp


  65. JP,

    I hate it when a new gun isn’t right.

    The clanking sound is the safety ratchet engaging? Or is it a different sound? The ratchet noise is normal.

    Don’t know about the other problem, though.

    I have never heard of this problem with a 48, but it sounds like the mainspring guide is broken.

    B.B.


  66. BB,

    Thanks for the ultra-prompt response.

    I know zero about the internals of guns, but the clank I was hearing wasn’t a single clank. Over the course of a single cocking motion, there were six or seven “clanks” (and not sporadic — very consistent sounding, and very consistent between each cock of the gun). It was akin to the clanks of a roaster coaster car going up the tracks.

    I was accustomed to the smooth “soundless” sound of break-barrel cocking, so while it was a new sound to me, I’d assumed it was normal for the model (though the Umarex rep. indicated otherwise).

    It’s a bummer — I just had a Leapers 3-9×40 mil-dot scope zeroed in and (minus the problems) was enjoying the shoot.

    Here’s to hoping Umarex’s turnaround time is swift!

    -jp


  67. JP,

    The way you describe it, that was the safety ratchet for certain. The button on the side of the action disconnects it so you can close the sliding chamber. Without it if the chamber slipped it could amputate your fingers.

    B.B.


  68. BB,

    So the series of clanks throughout the cocking stroke is normal? The fellow I spoke with at Umarex indicated that the cocking stroke was effectively silent (other than the final “click” of the spring engaging, maybe?)

    Stated differently, when you have cocked 48s in the past, was the cocking stroke notably audible?



  69. Thanks again for the info. I guess I’ll just have to wait and see what RWS sends back and how quickly.

    It would be a bigger bummer if I unnecessarily sent a working rifle in for repair — though I doubt the cocking problem is normal!

    Thanks again for your help.
    -jp


  70. JP,

    The way you described the cocking sounded like a problem to me. The 48 is supposed to cock smoothly all the way.

    Just be prepared for some noise. The TX 200 has it, as well.

    B.B.


  71. Hi BB -

    Did you ever get the opportunity to review the B30? I placed the order w/ Pyramid, but the .22 is on back order. In your opinion, is the RWS 48 worth extra $150?

    Thanks! Mike


  72. Mike,

    There is something fishy about the B30. It’s been backordered for going on one year, now.

    I see it on other websites, but some of those dealers will take an order and only inform the customer of a backorder after they have captured the sale.

    Does anyone know if the B30 is being delivered in the U.S.?

    B.B.


  73. B.B. -

    Thanks for your quick response. I’m curious now too…

    For backyard pest elimination and some plinking as well, I set a $200 to $300 budget and settled on .22 cal as preferred. Important criteria are accuracy, adequate power for the job, and longevity – I would like to give this to the grandkids one day twenty years from now (God willing!).

    I picked the fixed barrel thinking it would be more accurate. Do you have any better suggestions?

    Thanks again! Mike


  74. Mike,

    The BAM B40 would be ideal, and you would love it. It’s on the high end of your budget, but still within your reach.

    The Gamo CF-X is another winner and the combo gets you everything you need for $220. Not as accurate as the B40, but very nice, nevertheless.

    B.B.


  75. I’ve had a similar problem intermittantly with my 48 as well. It gets stuck around 85% cocked. You have to pump it to get it to finish cocking. One of the forums there was a post about this being a loose piston rod, and a fix for it (but too complicated for me), and a number of notes about run arounds from the company not fixing the problem.

    http://www.straightshooters.com/chat/viewtopic.php?t=3042

    I have not tried to contact umarex about fixing the problem, since it only happens once in about 100 shots, and the apparent hassle others have spoken about.

    Ozark


  76. Well Umarex has a stock of old and outdated Rws Diana’s including a handful of M52′s in .25 I got one and whew boy what a fine rifle.


  77. I have an RWS Model 48 and really wish I had bought a Model 52 instead, as the stock of the Model 48 is too slick to hold properly. It needs checkering, but I don’t care to try it myself.

    So, does anyone know where I can buy a Model 52 replacement stock? I have searched until my keyboard complained, but I can’t find anyone offering it. Next step is asking, and I’m starting here.

    Thanks in advance!




  78. Hi B.B.

    I love your work
    I couldn’t find better information about air guns on the net.

    Therefore; I would like to have your permeation to translate some of your work to my mother language and post it in some other sites linking it to your articles.

    Waiting your approval
    Thank you
    Adam



  79. Hi B.B.
    I shoot a Lyman Great Plains black powder rifle that weighs 8.5 lbs and is 49 inches long. I want to get an Air Rifle that is similar in weight and length so I can practice at home. I’m considering the RWS 48/52 but not sure if I want 177 or 22 cal? Also not sure what pellets to purchase for target shooting? Thanks for any help. Barry


  80. Barry,

    As you may have read, I’m in Las Vegas at the 2008 SHOT Show, so my answer will be brief.

    I would recommend the 48/52 in .22 caliber. Crosman Premiers and Air Arms pellels might be best.

    However, as a substitute for the black powder rifle, I would suggest looking at a Beeman R1, because it requires more holding technique to shoot well. It will sharpen your shooting skills even more than the sidelever RWS Diana guns.

    B.B.


  81. B.B.,
    I’ve got my Dad hooked on this hobby with all my talk about the Diana 54 you recommended and he’s trying to make up his mind between a couple of the cheaper Magnums:

    Diana 34 Panther
    Diana 48
    Diana 350 Magnum

    I’m assuming the 48 will be the most accurate by reading your reviews on them but which one is less sensitive to hold?

    Also, who makes the Walther Falcon Hunter Edition? Is that made in China?

    Thanks,
    Bill S.


  82. Bill,

    The Diana 48 is the least hold-sensitive of these three. It will be the easiest to shoot accurately.

    The Walther Falon Hunter seems to be Turkish. I hope to test one soon.

    B.B.


  83. B.B.,
    Thanks, I was leaning toward the 48
    anyway but wasn’t sure. It should be good rifle for him.

    It would be great if you could test the the Walther Falcon in 22 or 25. I’m curious to see if they come anywhere near the power advertised. (1000 fps .22, 800 fps .25, Wow!) This reminds me of the Benjamin Super Streak which I believe you said was made in China.

    Thanks B.B.,
    Bill S.


  84. B.B.

    Have a 48/52 in .177 and a b-square AA mount with rings.

    I also have a new old stock Bushnell 79-0004 The box states for use with air guns, but will it be sturdy enough for this gun?

    Thanks


  85. Hard to say. I tried to find out what model Bushnell you have, but those numbers lead nowhere.

    If Bushnell says it is approved for airguns, they mean all airguns, so it should be okay. But if it breaks, do you have any recourse?

    B.B.


  86. Thanks for the quick response on the Bushnell 79-0004.

    Its old stock…made in Korea…and I live in Canada so it might have been Canadian import only.

    I’ll mount the scope, but upon further investigatione of your pages you mentioned alternative mounts to the b-square AA.

    I guess my question is should I use this mount or would I have better success with others such as Theobens “dampa” mount or ???

    Many Thanks
    Kevin



  87. Hey B.B. It’s funny, I tried the scope stop trick on my 48 before I read your review!! Screw sheared and I’m screwed!! I love the gun, but the scope mount is an absolute joke. I haven’t touched the gun since. It’s about 2 months old and I put about 1,000 pellets through it. It now sits in my closet. I’ve since purchased a Gamo Whisper Deluxe. Thrilled. The scope stays on and in place!!!!! Pretty cool gun. I’m done with Diana. Thanks for listening bro.





  88. B.B., I am looking forward to Tuesday’s report!!!! Is there a chance this rifle will be coming out of the closet???? Sorry, that was too easy, just couldn’t resist!!




  89. Dude!! As soon as I shut down I slapped myself in the head!!! The scope is on a Gamo Whisper Deluxe. It came with a one piece mount with a stop screw that is shaped like an upside down cone. The stop screw is destroying the rail on the gun. It is actually digging a groove in it!! At the moment the scope has moved about 1/2 an inch. Now, HELP!!! Sorry about lack of info before bro!!


  90. Joe,

    Gamo scope bases are now made of aluminum. Nothing can be done to stop the stop pin damage. I do think it will eventually stop tearing the aluminum, though, after enough crushed metal stacks up. However I’ve never tried it.

    If you take the base off the gun and mount directly to the spring tube which is steel, it won’t do that.

    Read these two reports:

    http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/01/gamo-cf-x-gas-spring-part-1.html

    http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/01/gamo-cf-x-gas-spring-part-3.html

    Another way to slow it down is to drill the hole larger and put in a steel bushing. Then put the stop pin in the bushing.

    B.B.


  91. B.B.,

    What particular pellets would you recommend for this rifle (RWS 48)? I would like something that will serve for both plinking metal silhouetts and spinners with the kids as well as the occassional ground squirrel that pops up at the ranch.

    On a different blog you recommended Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets for my boy’s air rifle (Crosman Storm XT). Are these pellets too light for my 48? From everything I have read on your blogs it appears that with these pellets, the velocity will be too close to the sound barrier and thus unstable. I have also read somewhere that these particular pellets (Crosman Premiers) tend to foul the barrel with lead when used in higher velocity guns.

    Thanks again!
    Steve


  92. Steve,

    With the 48/52/54 we have one of those situations where we need to use pellet weight to slow the pellet down, just as you surmised. Also, you are right that the Premiers will foul the barrel with lead if not lubricated.

    Normally we never lubricate pellets for spring guns, but in this case, the 7.9-grain Premier seems to be especially accurate. The 10.5-grain is also pretty good – violating what I said about using heavy pellets in springers. So what some people do is shoot the 7.9s and just lube them.

    Use Whiscombe Honey – a concoction that won’t diesel. Two parts Hoppes Gun Oil and one part STP Engine Treatment mixed thoroughly. Put 20 drops on a foam pad (the one that comes in the Premier box) at the bottom of a pellet tin and lay a single layer of pellets on the pad. They will get an even coat just by the tin being handled over time.

    B.B.




  93. B.B. Did I miss your conclusion to the RWS scope mounting problem?
    I was also wondering if the Bullseye Airgun Club, you mentioned before, had any tips on mounting?



  94. B.B. Thanx I will check the link on the scope mts.

    Also, I could have sworn I read in your blog or some where recently that the RWS 52/48 pellets should have some special light oil. I know unual for springers but was I dreaming?
    thanx R


  95. Ransom,

    For any .177-caliber RWS Diana sidelever I have recommended a blend of oils I call Whiscombe Honey if you shoot Crosman Premiers. Otherwise, they lead the bore.

    Whiscombe Honey is one part STP Engine Treatment and Two Parts Hoppes Gun Oiul, by volume.

    B.B.


  96. hello bob u have mentioned in your post that Potential for improvement
    These guns respond well to a tuneup. I like to lower their power by 10 percent and eliminate all the vibration,

    so how to tune up my airgun.and please add some picture of pin stop to the scope


  97. junaid khan shinwari ,

    Can you do the work yourself? If so,

    Look at this report:

    http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/09/pro-guide-spring-retainer-system-for_24.html

    Read all 5 parts and you will see how to take the gun apart.

    Just install a weaker mainspring that fits the piston closer. This Pro Guide kit does that for you.

    As for the pin for the scope mount, read this:

    http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2008/07/diana-scope-base-part-3-more-testing.html

    Read all three parts. You will see where the scope stop pins goes.

    B.B.


  98. Hello,
    A quick question to RWS experts: I have just received RWS 48 (0.177), overall I am quite happy with it with exception of rear sight. It is not stable – it moves left and right by small fraction of an inch. It does not seem to be normal for high quality gun. Is there only one design of rear sight for RWS 48? Did anybody have a similar experience? Please advice.
    Leszek


  99. Leszek,

    Does the rear sight move and lose zero, or does it return to zero each time? That makes a big difference, as far as the rifle being accurate.

    Have you considered mounting a sport aperture sight?

    B.B.


  100. Thank you for quick answer (and sorry for slow response – for some reasons I had problem with posting on this blog.

    I think it loses zero – in fact you can move it using your finger and it will not go back to the same position (the screws are tight though). So I am trying to understand if this is a design defect, problem with this specific rifle or maybe this is expected in this price range (I hope not).
    My options are: to live with it and try to fix it by myself, replace for the same type or replace for something different (which could have the same problem).

    What sport aperture sigh you would recommend for RWS? I could find only Beeman, is it good?

    Thank you and best regards
    Leszek


  101. Leszek,

    I just checked an RWS Diana 34 Panther, which has the same rear sight. There is a small amount of movement in the rear sight blade (less than 1mm) but the rest of the sight remains solid.

    The Beeman sport aperture is a Williams sight and it’s a good one. But the Mendoza is just as good for less than half as much money.

    B.B.


  102. Ouch… I did quick calculations and 0.5mm at the sight level translates to about 17mm at the target (10 meters). So it looks like for (kind of) sport shooting I should replace this sight as you have reocmmended.
    It is still kind of suprising for $350+ rifle to have this problem (and apparently by design).
    Thank you
    Leszek


  103. Hi BB,

    I have a 52 in .22cal. Its got a V-Mach Venom FAC kit installed. The scope I currently have is a Bushnell Legend 5-15X40 AO MilDot on Promount Protecta One Piece High Mount. The mount has recoil absorption bushes that reduce recoil shock transmitted from rifle to scope.

    At last chrono, the gun was making around 23 foot pounds.

    The fact is that the scope hasn’t crept one bit so far. Everything works just as new. Its held on for over 2 years and the gun has seen a LOT of use.

    So I can safely guarantee this combo to anybody interested in the 48/52/54.

    Have you tested the Promount Protecta mounts? Are they really the reason for the scope to be working so well?


  104. I forgot to mention. I haven’t hung the stop pin on the front of the ramp either. There are no stop pins. But the scope still holds.

    The gun has is really smooth due to the venom kit, but the recoil is very much there.

    Yet the scope is fine.



  105. And I’m happy the way it does too! The mounts were purchased from a UK based online store and cost around $80 at the time.

    Do you think pyramydair would consider stocking them? The UK prices are almost always higher than the US counterparts and it would be good to see it here.

    Also, have you tested the MTC Scopes? I am looking at an MTC Viper 3-12X44. They’re known to be of excellent quality. Any pointers?


  106. Also, I just finished reading about the Air Venturi Pro-Guide Spring Retainer that you tested. Great job there!

    I was wondering whether this can be installed with a Venom FAC kit in place? Will it fit?

    If it will, it would make a great gun even better!

    Thanks!

    Mo.


  107. Mo,

    Pyramyd might be interested in the mount, but there are a lot of details that have to be hammered out. A company has to be responsive to supply when dealing with a large distributor. Many of them are slow to ship, and Pyramyd won’t accept that.

    Also, the retail price is about double what an expensive Beeman mount costs. The Diana mount sells for under $30, so there is no competition and therefore little demand when the price gets too high above that.

    Regarding the Pro Guide fitting the Venom FAC kit, I have no idea, but the spring in the Pro Guide is carefully measured against the retainer. Venom likes to install the longest spring that will fit, so I’m inclined to say it probably will not fit the Pro Guide. But if its a Venom, it should be dead-calm anyway.

    B.B.


  108. Hi BB,

    I hear you. The price is expensive compared to the other mounts. But the mount I use is Promount’s flagship. Its twice the price of their regular mounts too. The reason being the shock absorbtion mechanism built in. Aren’t Dampa mounts in the same price range too?

    The Gun shoots beautifully with the Venom. Its oodles smoother than before and the twang is greatly reduced if its there at all. But I was thinking the Pro Guide can better that. I’m thinking of giving it a go. I’ll let you know how it works out, if at all.

    What about the MTC scopes? Have you tested them?


  109. Mo,

    I don’t think I’ve tested the MTC scope mounts, either.

    If your gun is dead-smooth, that’s about all the Pro Guide can do for you. If you do try it, I would be interested in hearing how it compares to your Venom.

    B.B.


  110. Hi BB,

    I was asking about MTC Scopes. Not Mounts. :) I am particularly interested in their flagship Viper series.

    As for the Pro guide, I will definitely let you know about how it compares to the venom.

    Another quick question, albeit a bit stupid: I’m interested in getting a bipod for the 48. I’ve seen that it attaches to the swivel stud or a piccatinny rail. I already have an Uncle Mike’s quick detachable swivel installed with the studs that came with it. If I attach a bipod to it instead of the sling, how does it fit? Will it hang loose from the stud when the rifle is not rested on it?

    Can you do an article on bipod attachment please? It would be great!

    Mo.





  111. BB,

    I managed to open it. The link has an “l” at the end. (html)

    Thanks! I was really confused on how the bipod attaches to the stud.

    I’m looking at certain Harris models (6″-9″) and also some models from leapers.

    What do you suggest for the 52?

    Mo.



  112. BB,

    Thanks. The leapers one is much cheaper than the Harris too. So I’m leaning towards that. Plus your report is encouraging.

    Is there any major difference between the two that I should know about? Or shall I go ahead and order it?

    Mo.


  113. Mo,

    The Harris bipod is the standard against which other bipods are compared. I can’t say anything bad about it, except it is a bit heavy. But the Leapers seems to be a very good bipod, and like you say, the price is quite a bit less.

    B.B.


  114. BB,

    Thanks.

    The lighter the better for me. Since the bipod is sturdy enough the scales tip to the leapers.

    Since you installed it on the 48, you should be able to answer this question for me:

    I have installed the swivel stud right in front of the stock screw towards the barrel.

    Now:

    [1] Can the bipod legs be folded towards the barrel?

    [2] If folded towards the barrel, will it extend further beyond the barrel when at the shortest setting.

    The second is purely keeping asthetics in mind. A main reason why I wanted to go for the Harris 6-9″ model. I will rarely use it at a setting above 9″

    Thanks again!

    Mo.



  115. B.B,

    Thanks!

    Its settled then. I have decided to buy a Plano double rifle case, the shooter’s case, the Leapers bipod and the Pro Guides.

    The rifle case should hold the 52 with the bipod, high mounts and bushnell legend 5-15X40 installed. Right? Or is there a smaller one that can do the job. I wont be carrying anything else within the case. And want a rectangular one, not a profile type.

    You have been a great help in deciding! Thanks a ton!

    Mo.



  116. B.B,

    Great! I’ll do that. Thanks a ton.

    Once a decision is reached on how many pro guides we need, I’ll order the lot together. That way it can all be packed inside the case and shipped safely.

    Thanks again!

    Mo.




  117. Please help…..never owned a pellet gun and looking forward to my first. I have narrowed it down to five guns….Hammerli Nova… RWS-52… RWS-54…RWS-34 Meisterschutz compact, and the RWS460….I see Umarex have them on sale (demos). I was thinking the RWS-54 was kind of heavy especially with a scope, but the guy there says its the best. Any help would be greatly appreciated


  118. If you can afford an RWS Diana 54, then forget all the others. You will love it. My choice would be in .22, but even in .177 it’s a good gun.

    Next down is the 52. Same caliber rationale.

    Next I’d take the 34. Either caliber this time.

    I would put the Hammerli and the 460 last. The Hammerli for general quality, which is good, but not good enough on this list. The 460 because it is a raw, powerful rifle. A 52 is easier to cock and shoot.

    B.B.


  119. B.B.,
    Two questions regarding the Diana 48:

    1). Does the Side Lever affect the balance of the gun at all?

    2). The “48 Striker Combo” comes with Leapers 3-9x32AO scope, Weaver rings, UTG special scope base. Does anybody make a see- through scope mount for air guns? Scopes are great for distance shots, but for close-up quick action shots, I still like open sights.

    Dustoff


  120. Dustoff,

    Yes, the sidelever does affect the way the gun balances.

    See-through scope mounts are a sham. No reasonable shooter uses them. They got their start when somebody asked what the hole through the mount was for. It’s really just for lightening the metal on the mount and making is cheaper to make the extrusion.

    B.B.


  121. Dear B.B.,

    I'm looking for a Diana 54 for the recoiless, but the only problem is that i shoot left handed…

    Do you think it can be a big problem
    because the stock is not ambidextrous??

    -Rick


  122. Rick,

    I used to own an RWS Diana 54. Fine gun. Very accurate. Needs the new drooper scope base that B.B. helped design if you're going to scope this gun. Heavy gun. 9 pounds without scope and rings.

    You're right on target to be concerned about the stock not being ambidextrous. I personally think you're paying for a stock with a wonderful design that has completely ignored lefties.

    Whar are you planning on using the gun for and how? Pest eradication? Target shooting? Bench rest? Carry in the field for hunting?

    kevin


  123. Might or might not need the drooper mount. Depends on the specific gun. But the 54 IS very tough on scopes, worse I think than the 48/52. It doesn't have the additional mass of a stock firmly bolted to the action to help absorb some of that recoil.


  124. Hi,

    In fact i want it more for a "do it all" gun so: just for fun/target/pest control etc…

    I don't need .000000000001" precision but i want it to be comfortable for my left arm.

    -Richard


  125. Richard,

    The Diana 54 is an accurate and powerful gun. The open sights that come on the gun are adjustable and very user friendly. Most people scope this gun since it is accurate at longer ranges.

    The drooper base may not be necessary for barrel droop on the gun you purchase (although it was critical on my gun) but it will be necessary to securely mount a scope. Please also choose a scope that is rated for a magnum springer.

    I personally wouldn't consider a Diana 54 as an ideal offhand plinking gun. The cocking force along with the weight of the rifle, even unscoped, was tiresome quickly to me. The weight also made it a challenge for me to carry in the field hunting for long periods.

    I owned this gun in .22 caliber and the most accurate long range pellet for me were the JSB Diablo Exacts, 14.3 gr (blue tin). At short distances most pellets were accurate including the crosman premiers in the cardbooard box. Just remember to lube your crosman pellets if you're going to shoot them in a powerful gun like a 54.

    kevin



  126. I just received my Diana 52 yesterday, and I'm really looking forward to trying it out. I also ordered a Leapers 3-9×50 AO scope and the UTG Scope Mount Base, the AGE Quiet Pellet Trap (although I'm not sure if it is suitable for the power of the 52), some paper targets, and a variety of pellets.

    This will be my first airgun since the Daisy 99 BB gun I got for Christmas some 40 years ago and the hand-me-down Benjamin .22 caliber multi-pump I got a year or so later. I don't have those guns anymore. It'll be like starting new with this 52.

    I know I need to check the stock screws to make sure they are tight after shipping. Do I need to do anything else to my 52 before I shoot it, such as cleaning the barrel or oiling it?

    –Rand



  127. Rand,

    Congratulations on the Diana 52!

    The AGE pellet trap is a good design but if you purchased it from Pyramyd Air I think it only comes with 15 lbs. of putty (duct seal). If you shoot your powerful 52 at close range you may need to add more putty. Keep an eye on pellet penetration.

    kevin


  128. –Rand,

    Congradulations and welcome back to the wonderful world of air guns. B.B. writes a daily blog, Monday to Friday. You posted your comments to a blog that was written almost a year ago.

    If you'll go to http://www.pyramydair.com/blog you'll find the most current topics under discussion. Also there arn't alot of people checking the old blogs for new postings. If you have any questions the current blog is the place to post them that will involve the greatest number of readers in answering your questions.

    Mr B.


  129. Thanks for the suggestion to fire a few hundred pellets before mounting the scope, BB. I'll do it that way. Besides other potential advantages you might have had in mind (initial break-in, maybe), it'll give me some time to get used to the operation and feel of the gun with the regular iron sights and without having to worry about scope mounting and zeroing. Simple though that may be to some people, a scope will be a new experience for me too.

    Kevin and Mr B., thank you for your welcome and your comments. I'll post on a more current blog entry in the future. I wasn't sure if it was OK to post off-topic to the subject matter of the blog.

    I found this blog site less than a week ago, and I figure I've read maybe half the blog entries so far and a lot of the comments over several captivating late-night sessions. This blog is a treasure trove of information. My thanks to B.B., the guest bloggers, and all the regulars who help answer questions like mine.

    –Rand


  130. Rand,

    Although most comments are airgun related, there's no such thing as off topic!

    Come join other airgunners like you on the current blog. Mr B. gave you the link that will always take you to the most recent article that B.B. has written (B.B. writes a new article everyday, Monday-Friday) then scroll down to the bottom of that article and click on "comments" and you will join the fun.

    kevin


  131. Wow, lots of info here! I have had nothing but the best fun with my Diana 48 for the past 15 years. I really got into it when I mounted a BSA 3-12x on it, using the RWS C Mount. The first thing about this mount is THROW THE ALLEN WRENCHES AWAY. They are soft and useless. Bondhaus or better. Clean oil off the rails and apply a thin coat of rosin to enhance grip to rails and rings, it is harmless to the finish. Lube the screw threads and screw head shoulders with moly, this enhances the clamping force. As long as I hold moderately hard, the scope stays in place. I only have movement with the elevation adjustment in the mount.

    I have been running Beeman Crow Magnums but switched to Crosman Premier heavies, the accuracy is a bit better and can hold 1/2" at 50 yards on calm days. Performance on squirrel is perfect, allowing head shots to 50 yards as long as I know the range. I have taken squirrel at up to 75 yards but with body shots.

    This rifle is also a capable varmint rifle, taking skunk (rabies vector, daytime) and possum with ease.

    It has about 24,000 rounds through its barrel, only needing barrel cleaning every 500 rounds. I use Pro Shot Copper Solvent IV as it cuts the carbon fast and pulls lead as well.


  132. Keith,

    Thanks for a good report on your 48. You have fired more documented shots through your rifle than I have ever heard before. I'm sure others have done more, but yours is the highest number I've read.

    Good to know they hold up!

    B.B.


  133. Well, it has not been exactly trouble free. About 4 years ago, the breech seal was brittle and velocity suffered. As I didn't know where to go, I decided to experiment. And found a Danco faucet seat (3S 2, part# 80704)to be of perfect size, shape and Durometer (rubber hardness measurement) to replace. Since I had it on hand and no faucet that used it (kitchen remodel), I tried it. And velocity returned, holding for the last 25 tins of pellets. It has not lost any resilence.

    For backstop, I have used taped/glued phone books. Just cover the groups with 2" masking tape after pulling the targets. My target of choice is the little self stick 1" orange dots with cross hair. Here is a 5 shot 25 yard field squatting position.

    http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y104/weisseluft/IMG_1769.jpg

    I learned the hard way that new users need proper instruction. Yes, it has a new pull rod ;). Thanks PA!


  134. Something prospective RWS buyers should know: my brand new Model 52 failed to cock after shooting fewer than thirty rounds. I called UmarexUSA and was told to pull the lever quickly and give it a little more "pop" at the end of the stroke. This worked OK and I shot a couple more rounds with no more problems.

    Later, I went online and Googled "RWS won't cock" and got several hits on a couple of different models, one dating back to 2004. From this, I gather the problem is an old one and not just with the model 52.

    I have to say I'm disappointed because the airgun retailers all tout the fact that the RWS air rifles are made in Germany and of superior quality. I guess it's just more marketing BS.


  135. No, it isn't BS. You just cocked the gun too lightly for a new gun. I will say they should put something about this in the owner's manual, but even a hand-made Whiscombe has the exact same problem.

    The gun will eventually become easier to cock. And you will also get more experienced cocking it.

    You have a fine airgun. Most owners including me have gone through the same learning curve.

    B.B.


  136. Dear B.B. Pelletier,
    I own a .177 Diana 48 with the T01 trigger.
    I have tuned it very sweet! Is one of my best air rifles(I only have springers as a choice! ;) )
    Now I want to get my diana's barrel of the body to shorten it a bit with my lathe so I have less lock time.
    Do you know how can I take out the barrel and more important how to get it bake in, safely?
    Thank you very much for your time and all the help you give to us all!
    Take care


  137. George Stim, Howdy! You might wanna wander over to the current (and active) blog at http://www.pyramydair.com where off-topic questions are always welcome and you'll get much better exposure for your inquiries.

    Anyway, I think you're looking at a lot of work for virtually no gain. If you took off, say, 3" from the barrel (remembering that the barrel on that thing ain't that long to begin with) you're going to reduce the lock time by somthing on the order of .00028 seconds.

    The pellet doesn't even begin to move before the piston is almost completely at the end of it's stroke, so that's where all your lock time is. And in a springer, it's pretty much unavoidable.


  138. Hello Vince,
    I don't agree with you mate. When some starts tuning his rifle to get the best out of it, will do anything to get it! At least this is how I think.
    Also, the lock time is reduced not only by the shorter pellet travel but also by less back pressure drag ;) So the gain of the shorter barrel will be more than what you calculated. Of course it still is a small amount but I want to do it. After all I do my researches with this rifle :)


  139. George, my calculation is based on the assumption that the average pellet velocity through that last 3 inches is about 900fps, which is a conservative muzzle velocity of a medium weight pellet out of the big sidelever Diana. At that rate it takes a pellet about .00028 sec to travel that last 3 inches.

    That assumes that BB's right in that the pellet stops accelerating after the first 10-12 inches or so of barrel, and that the velocity is relatively constant after that.

    If that extra barrel length actually slows the pellet DOWN (which is certainly possible), that means that the average velocity through that last 3 inches of barrel is actually HIGHER than the actual muzzle velocity (because it starts out higher). If that's the case, the pellet spends LESS time in that last part of the barrel than I calculated. Which means that your gain in lock time is even less than the 280 uS I came up with.

    Another thing to keep in mind is that shortening the barrel will lighten the gun – and generally speaking, reducing the given weight of a spring gun means it tries to move around more while recoiling from the piston action. Since most of that piston recoil happens before the pellet even leaves the breech, this may make it harder to shoot accurately.

    One last thing – not sure if that barrel is choked, bu if it is – you'll lose it when you shorten it (unless you can do it from the breech end).


  140. Ok, Please help me out.. I just got a Diana RWS 48 and while cocking it, the release button jammed. I can't close the breech or pull the cocking arm any further. Do you have any suggestion how i can fix this.

    Andrea


  141. Andrea,

    I don't have the answer to your question, but I can still help you. You posted to a blog that is 4 years old. There is just a handful of us checking the old blogs for new posts. If you repost your question on today's blog (there is one written everyday, Monday to Friday) you'll reach ALOT of people and someone will have an answer for you. http://airgun-academy.pyramydair.com/blog

    Hope to see you there!

    Mr B.


  142. Andrea, by 'release button' do you mean the one next to the loading port? If so, there's no reason why that should keep the gun from cocking the rest of the way. If it jams in the 'UP' position it'll keep the lever from going forward to the firing position, but that's about it.

    Oh – if the gun is partially cocked that button WILL be jammed, because there's a fair bit of spring pressure pushing on the anti-beartrap ratchet. This is normal.

    IF you are new to the Diana sidelevers, I'm wondering if perhaps you are just underestimating the pressure needed to start moving a partially cocked lever. I'd recommend giving it a REAL GOOD yank… perhaps that will let you finish the cocking stroke.


  143. Can someone help me figure out how to contact Tom? I don't know how to join or even blog or any of that stuff. I need some help wit my RWS Diana 48/52. I can't see how to contact him. Tom Gaylord? I think is his name he left a post about that model. I just got a new/used one from a friend, but he lost paperwork a long time ago, and i have no idea how to clean/operate it etc. I did figure out the lever lock thing. then did get to shoot one pellet but I don't know much about air type rifles. I am an old vet that knows his cartrige rifles etc. but air guns are new to me. I understand the one my friend gave me is a tack driver and fun to use on varmits in the yard etc. thanks to anyone that can strighten me out on how to get in touch withhim Gary



  144. Gary,

    I am Tom Gaylord. I used the name B.B. Pelletier when I write this blog, but it is not a secret who I am.

    I will be glad to help you with your new air rifle. I am an old firearm shooter, too, as are many of the people who read this blog.

    You have posted a question to an old blog report from five years ago. I write a new report every workday of the week, so there are now over 1,500 of them.

    Come to this place and bookmark it (save it as a Favorite place on your computer):

    http://airgun-academy.pyramydair.com/blog/

    At the bottom of the report are a bunch of underlined words and the last of them are the Comments. Click on that place and all the comments will come up.

    There will be a new report these every weekday.

    You can post a comment about anything on any report. We don't worry about sticking to the topic on this blog.

    Please come to the new blog and ask your questions.

    B.B.



  145. Erik,

    I have seen this happen many times. You may not be pulling the cocking arm back as far as it will go. Either that or the mainspring or spring guide is broken and it preventing the piston from coming into lockup with the sear.

    The arm is all the way back when it is about 200-210 degrees back.

    If you have pulled it back that far, the rifle needs to be carefully disassembled in a mainspring compressor to determine what is wrong. This may take an airgunsmith, like you will find at the Pyramyd Air technical department.

    B.B.


  146. Erik,

    itg's possible that the trigger has been adjusted so light that it's inpinging on the sear and the sear will no longer catch the piston as you cock the rifle. The T05 and 06 triggers on the Diana have a single adjustment screw. I would screw this home (clockwise) but do not tighten! Just snug it and then see if that solves your problem.

    Also, you have posted on a 7 year old blog and not many of us monitor these. come to the current blog and post any questions or comments – off topic is always welcome. That way, you'll have thousands of air gunners looking at your comment and anxious to help. You can find that at this link for one: http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/

    Fred DPRoNJ


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.


2 + = 11

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>