by B.B. Pelletier
Today, I’ll test the Hammerli Razor for velocity. It’s advertised to get 820 f.p.s. in .22 caliber, so we’ll see what it can do.
The rifle cocks smoothly, though the effort builds very sharply at the end of the cocking stroke. Be prepared for that. The firing cycle is smooth and almost without vibration. I noticed a big jump forward when the gun fired, so the BKL 260 mount I’m going to try will be getting an acid test.
The first shot fired was a detonation, as I told you in part one, but that was the only one I saw. There were none during the velocity testing. However, the smell was unmistakable! The rifle is dieseling quite noticeably.
The first pellet I tested was the 14.3-grain Crosman Premier. Its weight is perfect for this power range. You’ll remember that I’d hoped for something in the 720-750 f.p.s. range based on the advertising. What I got was an average of 695 f.p.s., so it’s a little slow. The spread was from 668 to 708, which is a broad 40 f.p.s. That’s probably due to dieseling. The average muzzle energy is 15.34 foot-pounds.
Next, I tried RWS Superpoints for no reason other than I seldom test them. They work great in mid-powered taploaders, and I wondered how they would do in the Razor. Surprisingly, this 14.5-grain pure lead pellet averaged 696 f.ps. The spread went from 690 to 701, which is a super-tight 11 f.p.s. Apparently, this powerplant loves the Superpoint. Of course, all bets are off until we know what the barrel thinks. At this velocity, the average muzzle energy is 15.6 foot-pounds.
The 11.9-grain RWS Hobby pellet is a pure lead pellet that often gives the fastest velocities for a particular airgun. With this Razor, it averaged 762 f.p.s. The spread went from 756 to 770, a fairly tight 14 foot-second variation. The average velocity gives an average 15.35 foot-pounds.
The two-stage trigger was set to release at 5.5 lbs.–a little stiff for a nice sporter. Fortunately, it’s adjustable, so I went to work. The Crosman NPSS report taught me to always try the adjustment. There are no instructions for trigger adjustment in the owner’s manual, so I figured out the three screws and will give you the instructions here. Wear safety goggles when you shoot the rifle while adjusting the trigger, as you’ll be very close to a pellet trap.
First, remove the triggerguard to gain access to all three adjustment screws. I’ll number the screws from the trigger blade out, one, two and the larger screw farthest away from the blade is three.
Screw No. 1 adjusts the sear contact. Screwing in (clockwise) decreases contact–and out increases contact. Screw No. 2 adjusts the length of stage one. Screwing in decreases the first stage–and out increases it. It’s affected by the adjustment of screw No. 1, so adjust the sear contact first, then adjust the length of the first stage. Screw No. 3 adjusts the tension of the trigger-return spring. Out lightens it–and in makes it heavier. This should be the last screw you adjust.
You’ll be frequently cocking and firing the gun with the triggerguard off as you adjust the trigger, so hold down the back of the action in the stock when you cock the gun. With 15 minutes of fiddling, I was able to get a fine, crisp trigger-pull of 2 lbs., 12 oz. Remember, I had no instructions to follow.
Before anyone asks, I did try to shim the breech seal, which sits a mite low, but the groove is cut too shallow to get a shim in. Perhaps, a thin piece of paper would work. Maybe, I’ll try again, though I have to say that the rifle is shooting fine right now.
At the finish of the second report, I’m even more in love with this rifle because of that great trigger!