by B.B. Pelletier
The term ACCURIZED is so common in airgunning that people use it without thinking. What does it mean?
As far as I can tell, Robert Law of Air Rifle Headquarters (ARH) was the first to use the term ACCURIZE in relation to airguns. You would think that he had a specific definition in mind, but when you read what he wrote in his Fall/Winter 1979 catalog to describe the term, you’ll see it doesn’t seem to amount to much.
“Accurization involves having a highly trained specialist totally disassemble a gun. Each individual part is cleaned and inspected. The ultimate space-age lubricant or bonded coating is then applied to each component for optimum performance and friction reduction. This stabilizes the cylinder compression mechanism and greatly reduces normal wear. Both accuracy and velocity improve. Recoil is often reduced by as much as 60 percent.”
That is the only paragraph out of four under the heading Optional Accurization that has any technical information in it, and, as you can see, what is there is pretty thin. It sounded good to me when I read it for the first time in 1979, but now that I’ve tuned a few guns, it doesn’t hold much water. However, let’s not stop there.
I have encountered the results of an ARH “Optional Accurization” and can report to you what I found. A friend acquired an FWB 124 that wasn’t performing well and asked me to overhaul it for him. It had been accurized by ARH and not touched since. When I removed the action from the stock, I was shocked by the large amount of what looked like moly grease that had escaped the cocking slot and was now coating the outer surface of the spring tube. I scraped about a teaspoon of this gray viscous grease from the outside of the spring tube around the cocking slot, which told me to expect many times more inside the tube.
There was more, but not as much as I feared. The grease had been slowly migrating outside through the cocking slot, so I found a couple more teaspoonfuls inside, but no more. I was curious why this rifle was so loaded with grease, and the answer surfaced in an ARH pamphlet about accurizing FWB 124s. The instructions advised the use of Moly G powder everywhere on the inside of the 124 action except on parts relating to the trigger. They go on to say that an entire jar of Mainspring Dampening Compound should be spread on the mainspring. The ARH jar of Mainspring Dampening Compound held 1/2 oz. of thick white silicone grease. That’s about four teaspoons full.
Inside the gun, the lubrication (grease) had moved to the cylinder walls, so the mainspring was free to move. However, if it tried to wiggle against the cylinder walls it came in contact with this thick grease that dampened its vibrations. Over the course of the years, all the dark Moly G powder had mixed with the Mainspring Dampening Compound until what remained looked like a thick gray grease.
Before my tuneup, this rifle was shooting Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets around 730-750 f.p.s. After I tuned it up and switched out the mainspring and seal, it shot 960 with the same pellet.
The velocity reported in the preceeding paragraph is in error. The final velocity wasn’t 960 f.p.s., it was 861 f.p.s. A reader of this blog named Lance pointed this out to me and I found the report in the November 1997 issue of The Airgun Letter. I apologize for this mistake.
Mainspring Dampening Compound was good stuff back in the 1970s, when factory mainsprings were loose both inside the pistons and on the spring guides. By the mid-1990s, tuners such as Ivan Hancock and Jim Maccari were telling everyone that the physical tolerances inside spring guns had to be made tighter and the lubrication had to be minimal. Hancock coated certain of his springs with a permanent black substance that I referred to in The Airgun Letter as Black Tar, a term that caught on. Maccari soon came out with a different black tarry grease that home tuners could apply, and, because it didn’t rob velocity when done correctly (like the old Mainspring Dampening Compound had) he dubbed it Velocity Tar.
By the 1990s, most airguns in the higher-powered class were also using synthetic seals instead of leather. Let me tell you what that means. A tuned RWS Diana 45 with a leather seal can make about 840 f.p.s. with a light .177 pellet. With the same pellet in the same rifle converted to a synthetic seal, the velocity rises to the high to mid-900s. Before you start thinking about replacing leather seals with synthetic, however, know that most airguns will require a new piston for the synthetic seal – it’s not a straight swap. Those guns that do have the leather seals are starting to have some collector value. I once converted an HW55 from a leather seal to synthetic and now I wish I hadn’t, because with leather the gun is a better collectible.
At Beeman, the term was a “Super Tune-Up.” I won’t say that what they did was essentially the same as the ARH accurization, because I don’t believe they ever used Mainspring Dampening Compound (which they also sold) to the same extent. Also, they were in business later, so they had some tunes like the Laser Tune that were far more modern than those done by ARH. A laserization involved a fitted piston seal, a mainspring that was easier to cock and a new gold lubricant called Laser Lube. Together, these things boosted the R1’s velocity up to 1,100 f.p.s.
At ARH the term accurization was used loosely, and the procedures to do one probably evolved as time passed. Nobody would want a 1970s tune on their gun today. A 1976 FWB 124 got about 820 f.p.s. when tuned to the max, and the 124 has always had a synthetic seal. It also vibrated a little after tuning. With a good tune today, it’s possible for the same rifle to reach 960 f.p.s. with the same pellet and be almost dead calm.
The bottom line to this report is that accurization is a nebulous term with no foundation in fact. It is about as descriptive as the term “Magnum,” which used to mean an airgun that could shoot faster than 800 f.p.s., but today means faster that 1,000 f.p.s. In 10 years, who knows what it will mean?
60 thoughts on “What does “Accurized” mean?”
I have only heard the term accurization used as it relates to firearms. Accurizing a firearm usually involves some of the following: replacing the barrel, rethroat, headspace adjustment, addition of a muzzlebrake/compensator, replacement of sighting system, trigger tune, recroun, freefloat barrel, replacement of stocks/grips, tuning of gas systems,new bolt/slide, new extractor, new ejector, various porting, addition of recoil reduction system, and finally very larges amounts of money.
I know of a company that guarantees that they can take common off the shelf rifle and turn it into a world class target gun. The problem is, its cheaper to buy the target rifle. The up side is that they also offer reliability enhancements, and tactical conversions of most hunting rifles. They also do caliber conversions, so you can have a particular rifle in a caliber that it is not offered in.
They also warranty their work.
It’s like the word “tune” now.
Dampening is really not the proper word here. This would mean to make something wet.
Now, if you said “Damping” it would match what is going on a lot closer.
The action of a substance or of an element in a mechanical or electrical device that gradually reduces the degree of oscillation, vibration, or signal intensity, or prevents it from increasing. For example, sound-proofing technology dampens the oscillations of sound waves. Built-in damping is a crucial design element in technology that involves the creation of oscillations and vibrations.
Thanks, this is interesting about the number one issue of airgunning for me. The main question for me now is whether this process which is described which seems to correspond to what’s called tuning now–or any other process–can really make airgun more accurate. Charliedatuna whose work I respect greatly was hesitant to say; he just told me that tuning was an integral part of accuracy.
And I’m curious too why most of the firearms techniques are not used. Are they that dependent on the different powerplant/ammo?
That’s a nice-looking air rifle on the cover of the first brochure. It looks like a target rifle.
One more question for the knife afficianados. How do you test the sharpness of your knife? I was cutting paper until I heard that this was a quick way to dull your blade. Shaving hair off the forearm is a good test I suppose although it did look a little weird to walk around with the bare patch left by the Cold Steel Voyager. Tomato cutting is also good although I don’t think the knife needs to be that sharp. The Razor Edge sharpening system has an “edge tester” which is basically a ball point pen that you hold at an angle and rest the edge on to see if it will bite in or slide. Like the tomatoes this seems like a good test although I don’t think it will distinguish the uber-sharp knives.
That would seem to leave the somewhat subjective feel of the knife. Are there other tests?
As a writer, etymology is very important to me, and I do make mistakes.
This time, though, I got it right. The product name is Dampening, not damping. The writing of all ARH literature reveals a very common level of education. I admit that your observation surprised me, but if you read the literature from ARH you’d see that this is just the tip of a very large iceberg.
ARH was adamant that accurization improved accuracy. So was Beeman (and super tuning). I am just as adamant that it has nothing to do with accuracy directly, but it can affect it indirectly by making the gun easier to shoot accurately.
Accuracy lies with the barrel and the projectile. The trigger, sights and smoothness of the powerplant all lend a hand, but are not directly affecting accuracy.
That’s my opinion, and I know that it’s a minority opinion. Also, I like a good trigger as much as anyone.
BB, I never bothered to say this…ARH misused the word and it since became commonplace to do so.
Really, it was wrong then as it is now.
No big deal as it was obvious what you meant. PLEASE, dont hang up your pencil because of this! LOL
The thought being your trying to “damp” the vibration by using a “damping” compound….not dampening.
I pluck one hair from my head and let it fall onto the edge of the knife. If it splits under its own weight, the knife is sharp. Unfortunately for me, I have been doing this for far too long and am about to run out of test samples. Too bad, because I had reddish-blonde hair, which is nearly the finest kind!
yes, the paper does dull an edge, especially an edge with micro serration’s. I still do it though! Cus i actually enjoy sharpening a knife (as long as its not dull). I call a knife dull if it is not as sharp as posable, because i KEEP them sharp.
thats quit the standard. Ill go try it! My sharper knives are made by Lakota, microtech, benchmade, bradley, kinsey, 29 knives, etc. — Because i sharpened them!
Two of my brothers make knives as a hobby. One brother cuts the blades out of old saw blades and they come out fairly good, although they seem a little brittle; he is mainly interested in the shapes and making the handles, although he uses them for hunting tasks. The other is a (now) part-time farrier and he forges the blade out of either old horseshoes or bar stock and those blades are great. We made one together about twenty years ago when he was in school and it is the most amazing blade (with ugliest handle:)) I have ever seen, as it will not really rust (just forms a black oxide) and holds an edge no matter what you do to it. We still don’t know what we did; at the time, we were just messing around, forging (coal forge) and quenching for hours until we got it where we wanted it. Its a neat hobby, if your neighborhood can tolerate some smoke and noise:).
BB, would there be even the slightest possibility of being able to view the insides of these old catalogues? I just want to look at rifles like the HW 55 sold for 98.00 and let the tears come naturally. I suppose my question is this. If you take a gun out of the old AHR book and compare it to a similar gun today, which is more affordable?
Guys, is there a decent knife sharpener for someone with little metalworking skill???
I do not need OJ Simpson sharp, but enough for kitchen use. Anything you recommend???
Diana RWS 45s with leather seals are collectible? I have one that is ’85 or ’86 (stamped) with number on cylinder, left side) vintage that is in very good shape – probably had 3 tins max through it. I’ll try and connect a pic of it.
The one on right.
BB – WHAT did you do to choke 960fps out of a 124?!?!? Mine, with a fresh seal and JM spring, drives 7.9gn pellets in the mid 800s – which I thought was pretty good – not so much, I guess!
I’m wondering the same thing about that 124. If they can really go that fast, I’ll have to get my old FWB back. –It’s on semi permanent loan apparently.
I’m pretty sure, having read the article in The Airgun Letter recently, that the velocity was 860fps w/CP 7.9gr. I bought the identical kit from Maccari (the one with the flat black, non-parachute piston seal), but have yet to install it after several years. Anyone can have a memory glitch. Still, great article & info.
By the way, I keep meaning to mention to you that I grew up in Stow. Parents still live there. I thought I remember you writing somewhere, maybe the R1 book, that you were from Cuy. Falls?
SUCCESS! THREE FLIGHTS! LONGEST 860 FT. HOME FOR CHRISTMAS
Oops, wrong Blog.
However, I did just what you said, found a hard plastic washer in my grab box, ground it down to fit under the scope mount, 0.045 thick, left the other shims in the rear ring, for a total of about 0.090 droop correction.
Went out to the range, zeroed at 17 yds, 1 inch high at 30yds and 1.5 inch low at 65 yds! I thought that was pretty darn flat for a springer.
0.625 inch at 17yds (Hobbys)
1.06 inch at 30 yds (JSB’s)
1.44 inch at 65 yds (2 flyers not counted)(JSB’s) all 5 or 6 shot groups.
Chrony data: 740 to 765 with JSB 15.8 gr.
852 to 880 with RWS Hobby 11 gr.
THIS IS AT 5700 ft!!!!! 40 degrees. That may translate to 950 with Hobby’s at sea level. Either that or my chrony’s wildly optimistic, but the ballistics seem to corroborate those numbers, and it was where expected with my Ruger.22 pistol.
WOW! I never thought I would get this good of a gun with all my previous frustration. Obviously my breech seal is NOT leaking (yet).
I want to thank you for your encouragement, without which I might well have given up my venture into the middle tier of airgun-ness! My experience with the 1077 was dismal, and after TWO RWS 46’s damaged in shipment from PA, I was ready to quit and just go buy a .17 HMR from Savage or CZ at Sportsman’s Warehouse.
THIS GUN I WILL KEEP! Hell, it only took 6 months of research and effort. (;>)
Now I can actually go out and shoot what I decided to buy this gun for, and expect to kill it with one shot. Plus all the fun plinking at warm shook up beer cans, clays, film cans full of talcum powder, etc., not to mention blowing a few powder guy’s minds with it!
Jay in Idaho
PS. Your blog on the Taurus was probably THE thing that kept me in the game! Glad you write about something else once in a while.
Why not buy an old catalog and see for yourself. That’s what I did. The estate sale I announced has several ARH catalogs for sale.
Your address is invalid. What do you want for the 45?
All I did was install a standard Maccari kit. I’ve done a handful of 124s and the slowest topped out at 940. Maccari makes several different kits for the 124. I think you got a 12 foot-pound one.
Derrick, Steve and everybody else,
Yes, the 124 can really go that fast. It’s got the potential to top the TX200 Mark III because of its long stroke. All it takes is the right mainspring and seal.
I don’t know whether Jim Maccari still makes the kit I installed, but like I told Steve, I’ve tuned at least 6 124s, and 940 was the SLOWEST they would average with Premiere lites.
This is why I will never be without at least one 124.
So why are you guys sitting around, when there are two 124s for sale at the Hart estate auction?
Okay, I will check The Airgun Letter. If I have screwed up, I will be right back to admit it!
Oh, my gosh!
No, I’m from Stow. The Gaylords helped found Stow in the early 1800s.
Glad you succeeded! And I’m still working on the Taurus. There will be more reports as progress continues.
Lance and everyone who asked about the 124 velocity numbers,
Lance was right! The top velocity for the 124 wasn’t 960 like I said – it was 861. The article was in the November 1997 issue of The Airgun Letter.
I don’t know why I bumped the velocity by 100 f.p.s., but I was wrong.
So you guys with 124s can rest easy. Your rifles are performing well, after all.
I will leave everything the way that it is, except I am going to insert a special colored text paragraph in the report to explain to first-time readers that I screwed up and what the velocities should really be.
On Monday I will print a retraction with that day’s report, so anyone who missed this discussion will know the truth.
I am really sorry about this.
How to test a knife. You seem to know most of them. Wood workers seem to prefer to use the shaving of the fingernail test.
I prefer visual inspection; a small coin magnifier works very well. Under magnification the edge looks very different and you can see the small chips and scratches on the cutting edge.
Lansky sells a very fine knife sharpening line of products. My first purchase was of a Professional System p/n LKCPR and after many years of service is still very functional. I’ve given several smaller kits as gifts through the years and so far everyone has been able to produce very sharp cutting edges. Google it and you no doubt find lots of helpful information about Lansky sharpeners. Once you get one follow the instructions and be patient; the first sharpening seems to take forever. After the edge is ground to the correct angel though resharpening goes fast enough.
For kitchen knives there is nothing better than a rod type with steel or diamond cutting surfaces. Steel is lower cost and works very. Actually the diamond might just cut too fast. Like most people there has been one of these in my kitchen drawer to sharpen all of my kitchen knives. My advise to stay away from all the gimmick sharpening devices � if it needs electric just pass on it.
For a razor edge buy a sharpener with a very fine stone (white in the Lansky system) and for razor edges use a leather strap (just like in the old movies). An old leather belt will work just fine.
Accurize falls into the category of marketing speak. As such it should never be taken too seriously.
It is about the same as these terms from the auto industry: “fully equipped”, & “loaded”. Both intend to make the buyer believe the auto has a premium set of optional features or upgrades.
And that is about all this topic is worth… unless we want to poke fun at the author or something.
1) Bob Law’s ‘accurization’ may have smacked of marketing – but, in that regard, he was certainly more restrained than many that came after him. He also developed the foundation for lubrication techniques that live on today in [somewhat] refined form – earning many so-called “Tuners” a living.
2) Now that I know my 124 is not a dog, I gots to go beg the Salvation Army to give it back!!!
Regarding the POI shift blog a couple days ago, I’ve noticed that my impact point is different using both scopes and red dots when i switch from eyeglasses to contact lenses. I remember reading somewhere that this is due to my eyeglasses having an optical center in the middle of the lens. I’d bet that at longer ranges (20 yds+) this gets to be a couple inches if I’m sighting through the edge of the eyeglass lens.
Sunglasses would probably be have the same effect.
Anyone have any ideas about this?
All i know is that i always seem to shoot better groups with my contacts in rather than my glasses.
Nate in Mass
I know this is of topic but ive been reading the blog for the last month and i was wondering ive been looking for my firdst pcp air rifle for small game hunting and should i buy the Benjamin Discovery or should I wait for their next pcp air rifle.
Tanks for the help
Same here with the contact lenses.
That’s quite the sharpness test. I thought that method was the stuff of myth.
I expect that you are right about accurization, but I’m starting to appreciate the finer things of airguns enough that I think I’m going to supertune the B30 anyway.
Thanks to all about the knife sharpening information. It’s probably time to hone my skills a bit. That seems to be part of the equation.
Good morning B.B. and a good morning to your wife as well. As you probably gussed It’s Scott298 reporting in. First and foremost I would like to thank the crew at pyramyd air. It seemed that for some reason I was missing an allen screw for my B square asjustable scope mount. Upon contacting pyramyd I had the pleasure to speek to Chris-(I hope I got the name right -I have a terrible memory.) I explained to Chris what allen screw was missing from my scope mount-he knew what I was talking about and he was kind enough to put a couple in an envelope and mail them to me. There aren”t too many dealers that would go out out there way for something to most people that would seem so insuficent-but pyramyd did and at no charge. I wanted this fact to be known for a couple of reasons, the 1st is THANK-YOU!!!! This is leading to what I’m getting at. To the 1st time air gun buyer there aren’t many -if any-stores that they can walk into to get accurate information in their selection of an air gun. I was in one gun shop and the salesman was trying to get me to purchase a rws diana 34 (might be a little of on the model). He proceded to show me the features and benefits buy constantly dry fireing the gun over and over telling me that the loud noise the gun was producing was a sign of an extremely powerful gun-needless to say I did not buy it. My next avenue was the internet and I was overwhelmed at what was out there-so of to the blogs. This is where a first time buyer can get into real trouble. Some of the things I’ve read on these blogs where so of the wall I felt sorry for anyone takeing them seriously. There is a phenoman that happens once someone has purchased an air rifle-they become an overnight expert and have to add their 2cents worth to just about eveything. And I will be the the first to admit that I fell into this need to tell the world everything I knew-which wasn’t much. What you have here is more of a forum where one can get some factual information instead of a blog where someone asks a question and experts appear out of know where to help out. Now I know on other blogs that there are people who respond to “these questions” and are the real deal. They have the hands on experience, and knowledge to know what they are talking about and I among others are greatful for there help , the problem for the inexperienced is trying to figure out who-is who. So to the Ist time air gun buyer-heed these words-do your home work-go on line and find a decent company and don’t let price always be your guide. B.B.–keep writting them and we will keep reading them, and to Pyramyd-my hat’s off to you-you have a GREAT CREW, TREAT THEM WELL! Scott298 signing off.
If you are ready for a PCP, the Discovery was made for you. Don’t wait.
I forwarded your comments to Chris. I’m sure he appreciates them, as we all do.
Thanks for taking the time to tell us your story.
Just a comment on cleaning. Followed your post on cleaning with J&B (except I used Iosso as I couldn’t get J&B) and a brass brush on my IZH-60 that just never shot really well since it was new.
Got a lot of crud out of the barrel and it was amazing how the brush got easier to push/pull the bore as time went on.
Just got in from shooting it – amazing what a difference cleaning it made. It’s now a tack driver!
Excellent news. Just one question. What is Iosso?
I should have given the full name. The Iosso I used is the “Iosso Bore Cleaner Paste.” It appeared to be the closest thing I could find to J&B. Looks like white paste, just like the J&B in the photos. Seems to have worked well!
B.B., sorry to switch topics, just a quick question about iron sights. I’m new to airgunning but have been firing rifles in the army for a while now. I have a Daisy 953 that I’d like to use to help train marksmanship fundamentals for my soldiers. Being Military Intelligence, we don’t get as much range time as I think they need, and yes we use red dot sights most of the time but I think understanding iron sights is an important basic soldier skill. My question is, does anybody make a sight similar to an m-16 rear sight aperture? I think my 953 has 11mm rails, so I guess it would have to fit on that? Sorry for the rookie question. Also, would I need to switch out the front sight post as well with an aftermarket rear sight?
It depends on how close you want to come to the M-16 sight. It certainly won’t have a flipper aperture.
But, yes, there are several aperture sights that should work. Check out the Mendoza peep sight, which is economical and I think also high enough to work.
Bummed out now. I ordered the 46M and just before the “anticipated” shipping date of 2-28-08, I read that now they won’t be shipping until 4-30! Maybe Izh quit making them? Have you heard anything?
On a lighter note, I really have enjoyed the 10 meter blogs, as well as the aimpoint shift articles. Lots of great information there, as well as the discussions that followed. Keep up the good work BB and everyone!
I like my Spyderco folder. I sharpen and then hone with crocus cloth and WD40. Shaves nice after that.
High BB, hope you’re getting over your bought with Pneumonia and feeling better.
I have an off topic question for you. I’ve used your recommended method of cleaning the barrel with JB paste.
MY question is when the whole process is finished, should I leave the gunk from the cleaning on the brush, or should I clean it off? I have three brushes full of gunk. How and what should I use for cleaning?
Pyramid also left out the screws to one of the air pumps that they sent me, and similarly mailed them after I called. Now that I see that they made a similar mistake with you, rather than applauding their service, I would question their quality control. – Dr. G.
I love my Daisy 22SG, but I am not a fan of the trigger. Is there any easy mods to reduce the 6 lbs trigger pull to at least half? 1-1/2 to 2lbs would be even better.
Will it improve my shooting? Probably not.
The Daisy 22SG is such a wonderful gun that I just feel it deserves a better trigger.
Tens of thousands of orders per month and only 2 loose screws? I’d say they have their QC in order.
Michael in Florida
Success is not an entitlement.
Scott298-to Dr. G–pyramyd air did not leave out the screw.I thought it was lost thru my stupidity, or it just vibrated loose. In fact in trying to put the screw in I found that it was already there! I had a gun smith install the mount and he had the adjustment of the gimble on the scope ring so far to one side that it appeared that it was missing. If anything I’ve been a pain in the ass to pyramyd and they always treated me with respect and took care of any of my problems. When I purchaced my rws 350 it broke after a couple of weeks. They sent me a return tag so I did not have to pay shipping. To top it off as soon as they had proof that Fed ex had the gun in their possession-thru fed ex tracking- they sent me a new gun before mine even made it back to their location. My only complaint I would have is the amount of time it takes to get thru on the phone but once connected no problems. In fact I wish they would brcome the importer of rws instead of Umarex! I have only the highest regards for pyramyd and their crew-Scott298—thankyou Pyamyd!
ease up on Dr. G. No big deal.
IZH still makes the 46M, but they aren’t keeping up with their orders at present.
I wipe off the brush and set it aside for future use.
The 22SG is not a gun people typically modify. You just have to look inside and do what you can.
Thanks for a great blog, I enjoy it a lot and I’ve learned even more. I’ve been browsing the net searching for different targets to use for fun and general plinking. Not having found any to my liking I decided to make my own.
Feel free to have a look at the following (it’s formatted for an A4 landscape sheet (8.5″ x 11″ ???), it’s based on the old ’70’s space invaders game,
Any interested parties are free to make / change their own house rules and also to use the target for personal or club use. Commerical duplication or distribution is not allowed without prior written consent.
I’d be intersted in seeing any other targets / shooting games that your readers might come up with.
B.B. – sorry, the Diana 45 mentioned above isn’t for sale, but I like to keep in touch with what their real world worth is. I bought it at Cabelas, along with a Tasco 4x AO scope – price back then iirc was $160 for rifle, $60 for scope.
If I may interject, it may be also because of the fact that contact lenses actually rest against your eye, so there’s no chance of them moving. My glasses, on the other hand, tend to slide gradually down, and are readily unbalanced by anything that can overcome the weak suction created by your nose pads. I may be wrong, but just my two cents.
Does anyone know if the Gamo Big Cat comes with a scope stop pin hole or if the end cap can be used as a scope stop?
14 in Fla
Thank you for answering my pcp question. I appreciate someone answering my questions.
Try automotive break cleaner in a spray can to clean the wire brush after cleaning the barrel with JB paste.
Hint: Use it over a trash can or news paper.
You can buy it at any automotive store and it is very handy to have in the garage for lots of cleanup jobs.
Well, now that I can see my comment, the same question remains: what are the Big Cat’s scope stop features? Is it supposed to be like the Whisper’s setup, or is it an end cap/stop pin rig?
14 in Fla
14 in Fla,
Call Pyramyd Air and talk to Tech Support. I have no way of determining the answer.
If anyones interested I posted another target “game” at http://techdojo.googlepages.com/stardust.pdf
How do people feel about shooting targets like this as opposed to traditional style bull-eyes. Might be worth a blog entry about different avenues into airgunning etc.