Pneumatics are the oldest type of airguns yet they are also the ones with the most issues.
This report covers:
- Casual user
- The PCPs that can sit unused—o-rings
- The PCPs that can sit unused—low pressure
- Non-standard fill fittings
- Buy something you can rebuild
- Parts?
- Keeping potential leakers running
- So my advice to those wanting a PCP is:
- Summary
Today we explore the world of precharged pneumatics (PCP) further. I know there have been a lot of reports on this subject recently, and today I hope to draw on some of them to illustrate my points. Let’s get started.
Casual user
In Part One of this series I mentioned three categories of shooters who are involved with PCPs and if you remember, category three was the one who owned a great many different ones. That makes him a casual user with each one unless he is disciplined to shoot each airgun often.
Not being used often is a problem for most PCPs. There are a few for which not being used isn’t a problem and I’ll mention them next, but generally disuse is more damaging to most PCPs than over-use.
Ask any car dealer whether letting cars sit without use causes problems. They will tell you that it does. So, if you own a PCP, try to use it often. Honest Bob, how about a comment?
The PCPs that can sit unused—o-rings
I’ve said this before but the AirForce sporting rifles like the Talon, TalonSS Condor and the rest are extremely reliable over long periods (decades) of time. I attribute this to the low number of o-rings they have.
Another brand that has very few o-rings are the sporting airguns made by Dennis Quackenbush. They have a few more than AirForce guns, but the number is still quite low. And they tend to not leak.
The PCPs that can sit unused—low pressure
The USFT family of airguns made by Tim McMurray is another group that seldom has leaking issues. And when it first came to market the Benjamin Discovery (2000 psi / 138 bar operating pressure) is another airgun that had very few problems with leaks.
But in the case of the Discovery, owners started modifying them by boosting the fill pressure to get more shots. On the other hand, Lloyd Sykes simply increased the air volume of the reservoir so the pressure did not have to be increased. Read what I said about my Disco Double in December of 2024.
“Remember all the recent problems I’ve had with PCPs leaking? Well, this week I picked up my Disco Double after 11 years of sitting dormant and found it was still holding air! I think the lower operating pressure helps preserve the o-rings, though they will harden over time. My USFT rifle still holds, as well.”
Non-standard fill fittings
This is not a major problem, but it does happen. You saw what it did to me in the report on the Hatsan Factor Sniper Long rifle. It cost me two hours of time, but I was able to overcome it—partly. This isn’t Hatsan’s problem as much as it is a problem of general non-standardization in the world of quick-disconnect fittings. Hard Air Magazine did a great report on it.
Buy something you can rebuild
All of the non-leaking PCPs I have mentioned are single shots. Maybe you want a repeater. I’m only aware of one modern repeating PCP that operates on low air pressure. The Benjamin Marauder can do fine on just 2500 psi, but nearly every Marauder owner will run theirs at 3,000 psi or more.
So if you get a higher-pressure PCP, make sure it’s one you can overhaul. Skout air rifles operate at 4351 psi / 300 bar, and the company tells you to plan to overhaul your rifle at certain intervals. Overhaul means replacing all the o-rings. Since they planned this from the start, Skout air rifles are designed to be easily overhauled.
In recent reports you have heard about the failures of my AvengeX, my Avenger and my Air Arms S510XS. Are they easy to overhaul? We shall see!
In the case of the S510XS I have managed to pump air into it that it has retained for one or two days. I’m hoping I can get it to heal by keeping it full of air and oiling it with each fill, but we shall see.
Parts?
If you plan to rebuild an airgun make sure you can get the parts you will need. Now o-rings are not a huge problem because they exist. You may have to hunt for the right hardness (durometer) or the right material, but o-rings should be possible to find. Valve parts, on the other hand, are more specific. Sometimes they can be manufactured, but other times making them is difficult—just ask someone who knows about a Sheridan Supergrade valve. Cloud9?
Keeping potential leakers running
Are there things you can do to keep potential leaking PCPs operational? Yes, there are. For starters, operate them at lower pressure levels. And if you do fill to higher pressures, don’t store them that way.
And lubricate your PCPs when you fill. I told you how to do that in the recent RovAir report. I wish we had a lube for PCPs that worked as good as automatic transmission sealant works for CO2 guns, but I don’t know of one. That stuff softens o-rings to bring them back when they harden.
Finally, don’t allow your PCPs to sit around empty. After all I’ve said about o-rings that might sound like a good idea but it’s not. It’s not a good idea because if there is no pressure in the air reservoir the intake valve can admit air that has small dirt particles. And those will wreck the o-rings and seals!
So my advice to those wanting a PCP is:
Know what you plan to buy. Either know the design of your intended airgun or know you are buying from a dealer you can trust.
If the airgun has fewer o-rings or operates on low pressure you can expect it to run for a long time without needing much maintenance, though it is advisable to give it, nevertheless. If it runs at high pressure is it an airgun you feel comfortable working on?
Consider operating your higher-pressure PCP (4351 psi / 300 bar) at a lower air pressure (3600 psi / 248 bar). And don’t store your PCP completely full or empty.
Either plan to use your PCPs frequently or get the ones that don’t seems to have problems from long dormancies.
Summary
Today’s report is just one of several lessons on PCPs that you’ve read in recent weeks. All of them together add up to a good basic lesson on the precharged pneumatic.
Look at the mistakes I have made. Like not trusting the RovAir compressor and trusting a PCP, when I should have done just the opposite. But I told you about that in the recent report on the RovAir, so do as I say—not as I used to do!
Also look at the odd-sized male Foster fitting on the Hatsan Factor Sniper Long rifle. It took me almost two hours of checking different female Foster fittings before finding one that worked. It happens to all of us from time to time so read that report from Hard Air Magazine.
The bottom line with PCPs is there are things you need to know to make them work for you. Some are simple like the ones from AirForce. Others provide a challenge, but if they do what you want the challenge is worth the effort.
Tom,
Good thing I’m satisfied with what I’ve got. A bone stock Discovery for my first PCP. Got to rethink everything else though. Thinking of letting go of all the CO2 rifles and keep what works.
Good news! The AA Tx200 works! The bad news is that it is very smoky. Definitely detonation ongoing. I’m very tempted to take it apart and get rid of the excess oils lurking inside. I really think it got regularly sprayed with WD-40. It’s had a hard life previously. Somebody had tried to put a sling swivel and ended up drilling an off center hole in the butt. Lots of scratches in the cocking handle due to the cocking assist grub screwsb not being tightened enough. Rust in several places.
Pictures to follow. Have to resize them first.
Siraniko
Going to have read everything before doing anything further.
Siraniko,
It’s a newer one; a Mark III. Good for you!
BB
Going by the serial number I believe this was made sometime 2004. Haven’t determined if it has baffles or not. Pity about the grub screws of the cocking aid not being tightened properly. Lots of scratches, Will have to think about whether I am going to use it or simply use some heat shrink to cover it. Rubber bumper is gone. Maybe just use a cut off portion of a hot glue stick as a replacement bumper. Got to look for some wood I can use as a filler for that awful hole. Will be cleaning the very dirty rubber pad.
Siraniko,
Yes, it has baffles. All TX200s do.
Siraniko, maybe this illustrative video will help you get started on refurbishing your TX200. Seems even FM should be able to take one of these apart without breaking it. Your offset hole-in-the woodstock problem may be solvable with good quality wood filler.
https://youtu.be/ZTZ1B2rUgdI?si=nCEqgZ-i3QNe9CuN
FawltyManuel,
Thanks for this. Boosts my confidence.
Siraniko
You are welcome. This one is even better, in FM’s opinion. And, in line with today’s subject, recently received an o-ring kit for the Maximus; have an exploded parts diagram for it – now to look for tutorials, written or in video form, to at least get a notion on how to “attack” a rebuild before going in blind and screwing up screws and God knows what else.
https://youtu.be/yjO0nA75_Vg?si=_hNXm8gjOkJwzBDX
Two things; first I read somewhere that a properly sized o-ring could be used as a bumper, though I could be wrong. I don’t always remember things correctly.
The second you could mix in some mahogany sawdust and CLEAR epoxy to fill the hole. There is a hard wood that is used for furniture in Batangas area that typically has a live edge and is mostly dark red in color like mahogany and since you are after the sawdust it should be close enough to the original mahogany color.
This may take a few attempts to get the correct ratio of sawdust to epoxy, the important thing is the use of a dries CLEAR epoxy.
FYI, mahogany like teak is an oily wood and needs to be cleaned of oil right before you apply the mixture of epoxy.
Mike
bmwsmiley,
Thanks for that tip. Got some reddish mahogany wood around. Color match isn’t too critical since it’s at the bottom where hardly anybody will look.
Siraniko
I don’t know if this is a good idea or not, but it is an idea….
If the butt pad is removable, you could drill a hole in the buttstock and use the woodshavings as filler. Would they take stain to the same color? Same wood, same color? But the butt pad back on and hide the transplant scar.
Roamin Greco,
That would be great but I can’t see any screw holes in the butt pad allowing removal.
Siraniko
Spoke too soon. It can be cocked but when pressing the release it also decocks. I was told it was .177, BUT found the pellets to be too loose. Careful examination after cleaning revealed that there is a fine lettering indicating that it is actually a .22!
Siraniko,
This “old gal” can be restored to working order. She may not be as pretty as a brand new one, but if you use her, she will not stay that way anyway. Be brave. Take her apart. She will reward you for it.
Siraniko,
It sounds like the trigger is set too light. Given the other problems that’s likely correct. I would start there.
BB
The manual has instruction on adjusting the trigger.
Tom,
According to the person I bought it from he did not tinker with the trigger. Since he wasn’t really a gun guy I’m prone to believe him. I do find a waxy residue peering through the cocking slot on the forearm that really suggests that they have been oiling this with WD-40. I’m thinking of taking it apart and giving the trigger cassette a good cleaning using brake cleaner before applying some synthetic oil to lubricate it. Of the few times I was able to cock it the safety did not automatically engage.
Siraniko
Siraniko,
Okay. If he used WD-40 I know for a fact it will gum up the works. Actually varnish them. I know from personal experience.
Also clockmakers tell you to NEVER use WD-40!
BB
That’s what my late father-in-law, who loved to build clocks said – “no petroleum-based lubricants to be used on clockworks.” WD-40 included.
I have several PCPs living here at RRHFWA. Fortunately, three of them are from AirForce.
As some of you may recall, I have always been a low-pressure advocate. TCFKAC has played with lower pressures on and off for several years now. It is my hope that under their new ownership they will not only continue to play with 2000 PSI, but go even lower.
Why not? Sproingers operate at around 1000 PSI. So does CO2. The Girandoni was a .46 and would get over twenty shots at about 800 PSI.
In these times the fill pressures have been going higher and higher to increase the shot count. They also have to have well designed and well-made regulators because the air rifles cannot use that high a pressure.
What’s wrong with this picture? Why not take that engineering time and money and apply it to the valves instead of the regulators? It can be done. It was done in the past.
Just a little something to chew on over the weekend.
🙂
RidgeRunner,
I totally agree with the lower fill pressure. I think of it as being more air efficient instead of a air hog. It’s almost like hyper velocity #’s sell. Seems like higher fill pressures are the claim to fame also. I too look forward to more efficient, lower fill pressure guns.
Doc
RidgeRunner,
I have several PCPs living here at shootski’s Nimrod (Genesis 10: 8-9) Lodge. Fortunately, eight or more of them, are from Dennis A. Quackenbush. I may someday add an airgun from AirForce when one meets a need that isn’t filled already.
I would dearly love to own an Original Girardoni or a modern replica built to at least the standards of the Original Maker.
“Just a little something (MORE) to chew on over the weekend.”
Until the consumer is educated enough the Marketing types will continue to push whatever Siren Song the Influencer that has their ear about at the moment is singing.
shootski
BB,
I’m definitely a “category three” PCP owner with a bunch of them I use for plinking, pesting, hunting, target and bench shooting.
I use a “lottery system” to be sure that we all get regular trigger time together. Each airgun has a token in the “to be shot” jar and the airgun drawn gets moved to the rack by the door and its token is put in the “has been shot” jar. Considering weather and other activities, each airgun is on the range for a couple of sessions at least once a month.
I have a service schedule for everything in the house (e.g. all rechargeable devices are charged up on the first Saturday of the month). During the winter, my more powerful PCPs are each shot 5 times every two weeks to keep them limber.
I have favorites so the lottery makes sure that we all stay familiar and exercised. Works for me.
Happy Friday all!
Hank
Hank,
Your lottery system seems to work well.
BB
Hank & all
Another simple way to assure all get their turn:
Use Docs documents to keep a diary. It lets you create your own format. I can tell within one minute which airguns are up next for today’s fun. I also know how each performed the last time including pellet used, hold, wind, temperature, date & score. I have lots of abbreviated words I use that help me know the essentials in a quick glance. My airgun diaries go back 13 years. About once a year I create a new document for ease of scrolling.
I too have favorites but the others scream just as loud when it’s their turn.
Deck
BB,
RE: airgun parts source
T. W. Chambers from England sent me an email last week saying they no longer ship to the U.S.A. The message explained their difficulty with uncertain tariff regimes. Probably some other readers got the same message.
The best laid schemes ‘o mice an’ men….
jumpin
jumpin,
Yes, I received that email. There is always TR Robb.
BB
My understanding is that the importers are the ones who pay the tariffs (not the exporters). The costs are passed on to the consumers. Maybe there is something that affects the exporters that I am unaware of? Or is this just someone who objects to the tariffs in principle?
Maybe Mr. Chambers objects to the tariffs in principle but still don’t understand why he would not ship to the USA when it is the customer on the other side of the pond who pays the tariff. FM’s philosophy is that tariffs should operate in reverse to the current system, that is, have the exporter pay the levy. Then companies can decide whether or not it is worth exporting their goods here. That might make things more palatable for the consumer.
Cautionary note: FM be no economist, political scientist or, God forbid, politician and/or expert in human nature.
Question: What is the best way to store a PCP for occasional pesting use? Currently, I’m using a Benjamin Marauder Pistol, that’s stored between 1,500 to just under 2,000 psi. I can go from 1 week to 3 months before I need to fill again (with about 10-11 good shots). Below 1,500 psi, velocity drops off too much and I don’t exceed 2,000 for the sake of the seals. My usual fill routine is to pressurize to slightly over 2,000 (using an Air Venturi G9 hand pump, adding a drop of silicone chamber oil every so often), then dry fire it a couple times to blow out any moisture that may have accumulated. After that, it’s kept “at the ready” until it’s needed. Does this sound like a good practice?
As a related question, what’s the best way to store a compressor/hand pump? You’ve mentioned that it’s best to not let them sit too long. My G9 only gets used an average of once a month +/-. I keep it stored sealed in a plastic bag to prevent buildup of moisture and dust/dirt. I’ve been thinking I should throw in a rechargeable desiccant pack in there too (or might that be too much?). I’m also unsure how often to replace the moisture filter. Is there any indication that it’s full and needs to be replaced?
Thanks.
Suburban Venator,
You are storing it the way I would, as long as you have time to pressurize it for each pest. You didn’t address that.
Storing the G9 pump is fine and the desiccant can’t hurt a bit. Just keep the pump handle all the way down and the bleed screw closed.
As for the desiccant pack, I’d have to read the directions to answer that. If it’s rechargeable here should be directions.
BB
Thank you. According to my chronometer, the P-Rod produces optimal velocity between 1,500 & 2,500 psi, so storing it “at the ready” between 1,500 & 2,000 is enough for what I need it to do. I usually don’t get more than one shot anyway.
Ah, I wasn’t keeping the bleed screw closed. Good to know. Thanks.
Suburban Venator,
Sounds like how you are doing it is how to have a ready pester to me!
But do you lay it on one side or some other position every time? Could you get/build a vertical pistol stand or scabbard for it?
” I’m also unsure how often to replace the moisture filter. Is there any indication that it’s full and needs to be replaced?”
As Tom covers that depends on how high the Relative Humidity is where and when you operate the pump.
Tom’s Blog Covers what you need to know in depth without the bull of most reviews read it and then ask more questions here (n this Blog ONLY) if needed:
https://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2024/05/all-about-high-pressure-hand-pumps-part-five/
shootski
I usually store it in a sling bag with ammo, a laser measure, green laser pointer (for distraction), and a monocular. It’s usually oriented vertically with the muzzle pointed up. Is it better to store it horizontally or with the muzzle down?
I’ve been lurking here for a number of years now and thanks to this blog, Pyramyd has generated some sales from me (it’s why I bought the G9 and the Marauder). Great Enabler, indeed. Thanks.
Suburban Venator,
“Is it better to store it horizontally or with the muzzle down?”
Based on experience with my DAQs (all stored with 3,600psi fills) with a Foster fill port at the muzzle end of the pressure tube a set-up like the Benjamin Marauder. i would recommend a muzzle down most of the time.
Why? The only O-Ring that i have ever replaced on any of my Quackenbush pistols or rifles was ONE on my oldest DAQ rifle that had sat too long in a vertical cabinet gun rack muzzle up. I speculate that the fill end O-Ring gets lightly bathed in Silicon Oil on the fill then gravity flows it down the length of the pressure tube toward the valve end only to then be blown through the TP, barrel, and out after the ball or bullet toward the target. That sequence and apparent the only resulting O-Ring failure made me rethink my storage routine.
I now store them (muzzle protected) butt up. You could flip them if the airgun isn’t used in some time.
I have also seen leaking/failure to pressurize Multi-Pump actions (even with two or so storage pumps) revived by simply laying them on the bolt handle side after too much time resting on the other side.
No real scientific proof in hand but based on decades of experience and a bit of common sense based on simple physics.
shootski