Walther CP99 Limited Edition: Part 1

by B.B. Pelletier

Before I begin, I must comment on the level of interest many of you have shown in big bore airguns and hunting with them. I figured there would be some interest, but not as much as I saw. I will come back to them in the coming weeks. If you have any questions, now it the time to ask.

Let’s look at a completely different kind of airgun – a Walther CP99 Limited Edition . Only 300 of these guns were produced, and Pyramyd Air bought them all. At the heart of the package lies a Walther CP99, but there is a lot of stuff to consider before we get to it.

First consideration – the price
This is not a cheap airgun. At $229, it will take some thought for most buyers. A standard CP99 sells for $89 less. So what do you get with the Limited Edition?


The CP99 Limited Edition comes in a special blue hard case. It’s larger than normal to store all the extras this gun has.

1. Custom hard case
2. Gun serial-numbered within the 1-300 production run
3. Screw-on compensator (looks like a silencer)
4. Custom-fit laser + batteries
5. Two 8-shot rotary clips
6. Additional backstrap to fit gun to hand
7. Muzzle protector when comp is not attached
8. Allen wrench for rear sight
9. Owner’s manual


Here you see the gun and all the accessories that come with it. Clockwise from 7 o’clock is the laser, the compensator, the additional backstrap, the muzzle thread protector, two circular clips and the Allen wrench.

Consider a dot sight
The one thing that’s not in this package that you’ll probably want is a dot sight. When the compensator is attached, the open sights on the gun are useless. But the compensator doesn’t add any velocity or accuracy, so it’s just as easy to take it off and use the sights the gun come with. If you decide to mount a dot sight, the Leapers Quick Aim sight looks the best, but our readers have mentioned seeing a lot of parallax through it. I know the UTG Red/Green dot SWAT Force sight is a good one with minimal parallax.


Here’s the pistol with the accessories attached.

One more thing
The final value to this airgun is the fact that it is a limited edition. Only 300 were made, and each one has a unique serial number engraved on the right side of the top rear slide. Does that make the gun collectible? Right now, probably not. CP99s are still being made, and this limited edition is still available. In 10 years, when this model is dropped or at least the limited edition is no longer available, then yes, this gun should be worth a premium. But that would only hold true for guns in mint condition. If you plan on shooting the gun, just go ahead and use it all you like. The remaining unused guns will benefit from there being one less perfect example in the world.

What IS a CP99?
A CP99 is an Umarex CO2 version of a 9mm firearm made by Walther. Umarex owns Walther, so this isn’t a copy – it’s the real gun in CO2. This gun has a plastic lower frame and grip and a two-piece metal “slide” on top. What would be the slide on a 9mm pistol is in two parts on this gun. The front part moves forward to expose the place where the 8-shot rotary clip is inserted, and the back part slides back to cock the hammer, if you want to shoot single-action. The gun is set up as a double-action pistol, which means pulling the trigger cocks and releases the hammer to fire the gun and also advances the rotary clip to the next pellet. If you cock the rear slide manually, the clip advances and the hammer remains cocked until you release it by pulling the trigger. Shooting single-action gives you a two-stage trigger with a long first stage and a crisp second.


Front half of the slide pops forward to load the circular clip.


Circular clip is in the gun, ratchet teeth to the rear.

Tomorrow, I’ll show you some velocities, accuracy and which pellets to use and why. I’ll also talk about the laser and compensator.

51 thoughts on “Walther CP99 Limited Edition: Part 1



  1. BB,

    Nice work on todays blog. I have a Walther/Crosman Night Hawk wich is of course very similar to the CP99 limitted edition you are reviewing. My question is, Have you noticed an improvement in accuracy with the compensator mounted. Umarex, describes the compensator as a state of the art device that enhances accuracy. I’ve wanted to test performance with and without the compensator mounted, but I am concerned that I do not shoot well enough with a pistol to notice any difference. What is your experience with these “accuracy enhancing compensators”?

    Thanks for all of the great information.

    LoneShooter


  2. Round ball,

    I’ll try to come up with something on accuracy. I don’t shoot a lot of round ball because conicals do so well in my guns, but I do have velocity figures.

    I’ll dig around and see what I can come up with.

    B.B.


  3. Gas ram,

    Are yoiu looking for power in an air pistol? I supposed you have considered PCPs and don’t want to use them for some reason.

    You know, getting power from a spring pistol has long been a desire of many airgunners. I have some material on the subject. I’ll dig around and see if I can put together a post for you.

    B.B.


  4. I’ve noticed on my nighthawk that the compensator changes the point of impact and the noise. Not louder but more of a crack. I don’t now about accuracy.
    also if you take over the holes in the compensator, there is no report.





  5. Off topic…could you tell me what minimum scope power yu would use for field target? Also, I think you did some posts specifically about field target some time ago, but can’t seem to find them doing searches. Do yu recall when they were any better than I do?


  6. Field Target,

    I used to use a Tasco Custom Shop 8-40X56mm scope. But when Leapers brought out their 8-32X56, I found it to be much brighter, so I switched.

    I amn going to do a lot on field target very soon, plus I understand Tom Gaylord will also be writing some articles. In fact, his first one is up on the site right now.

    B.B.


  7. BB ,

    Can you tell me how to tune up an old springer ?

    I want to know how the length and diameter of the mainspring effects its performance. Also, effect of the weight of the piston. Would a lighter piston be better or heavier.

    The gun is old and I have absolutely no idea what make it is. Its a .22 caliber. I intend to shoot pellets of 11-12 grains weight.

    Right now, the velocity is so low that a shot from 20 feet away hits one feet low !!! I wanna know how to get this thing up and running. For some reason I dont wanna chuck it …..


  8. majorkonig, sorry for jumping in here… but I don’t think anyone can really answer your questions without knowing anything about your gun.

    A stiffer spring can make a gun shoot better or worse. Depends on the gun. The weight of the piston? There’s a certain weight that’ll be optimum with a certain powerplant and spring. Is that heavier or lighter than the one that’s already in there? Again, nobody can tell without a lot of detailed information.

    The one thing that can probably be said with some certainty is that your seal is probably leather, and it is probably bad.

    If you can come up with some more info – country of origin, any markings, a picture posted on another website, etc. – perhaps someone can help you out.

    BTW – if the shot is really dropping one foot at a 20′ range, you’ve got a muzzle velocity of around 80fps.




  9. BB,

    Can you do a review on Air Arms TDR? I would like to know it’s power, and accuracy at 50 yards…etc. Thanks.


  10. B.B. Another off-topic question:

    I bought a B-Square from PyramidAir, but I didn’t realize my rounded receiver would reject the B-square. I just got it today and found out the hard way. Is there a safe way to fix this problem? Maybe with a file?

    I dono…

    If nothing can be done, is it possible to return it?

    Thank you,

    ~Jensen


  11. majorkonig,

    Pleaser read the 13-part blog I did on tuning a spring gun. Part 13 is at:

    http://www.pyramydair.com/blog/2006/08/spring-gun-tune-part-13-range-testing.html

    Then you do need to identify the model of gun you have. Parts for springers tend to fall into groups based on manufacturers. For example, Diana parts fitt many different models in the line. It’s also helpful to know that Diana also made guns for Beeman, Hy Score, Winchester, Peerless, RWS, Stoeger, Geco, Gecado etc.

    That will save you some time.

    B.B.


  12. Benjamin 397,

    Yes, if the pump head is properly adjusted (the new ones don’t have any adjustments) and lubricated, a 397 should shoot around 800 f.p.s. with lighter pellets.

    B.B.



  13. Jensen,

    B-Square mounts are designed to fit round receivers. They do so better than any other mount I know of.

    Why do you feel that it isn’t fitting correctly? Are you unable to get the dovetail points (the claws) to catch in your gun’s dovetails? Or are the claws angled, and that bothers you?

    What model rifle are you trying to fit?

    Call Pyramyd Air about returning the mount. They will probably take it back if it’s complete and you haven’t scarred it.

    B.B.



  14. BB & Vince ,

    Thanks for answering.

    BB, i’ll look at your post and see what I can pick up.

    Vince, i’ll try to find out abt the make. Its actually got a marking that says ‘GI 65′ but I dont any model by that name. Will try to find out more. Belongs to my Dad. Seems its an Indian make, pretty old though.

    I dont know the technicalities of springers at all. So its hard to know what information you would actually want. I googled GI 65 and got nothing.



  15. BB ,

    1920 and ’30s !!! Ok, let me ask this straight away. I was going thru the tune up posts by the way.

    Considering what Vince said abt the gun shooting 80 fps (and I’d say he’s right) is there ANY chance I’d be able to get it upto 700 fps or so without burning a hole in my pocket ? Looks like its got cancer and the treatment’s not gonna be easy.


  16. MajorKonig,

    If it’s the gun I think it is, it will never make 700 f.p.s. About 500 was the best these older guns could do.

    Does it have just a wooden butt without a forearm? It does if it’s the gun I think it is.

    If it has a forearm, it’s more modern.

    I wich you owned a Blue Book of Airguns. They we could converse easily.

    B.B.


  17. BB ,

    In your tune up post, you have posted an image of a R1 beneath which you mentioned something like “…. mine has plain walnut stock ….”

    The gun looks just like that. And real heavy. I’d put it at abt 10 pounds.

    Something tells me its not crap. If only I had the expertise to work with it, I’m sure it can turn out decent enough.


  18. MajorKonig,

    The weight and the physical description tell me it isn’t what I thought.

    Tell me, is there a small lever under the barrel that unlocks the barrel for cocking?

    B.B.


  19. MajorKonig, let’s start with some basics…

    1) Is the gun a break-barrel?

    2) Does it have a safety? Automatic or manual? Where is the safety, and how does it work?

    3) If it is a breakbarrel, there should be a round seal around the pellet loading port. Is it leather? Is it missing?

    4) What sort of sights does it have? How are they mounted?

    5) Is there a grove for a scope?


  20. BB and Vince ,

    There is no lever under the barrel.

    Its a normal break barrel action. Have to slap the barrel to open it up.

    No safety features whatso ever.

    There is no round leather seal near the loading port (it should be like a ring, yes?). It actually makes me wonder when I load a pellet and snap the barrel shut, doesnt the pellet skirt deform then itself ?!

    No option for scopes and no grooves.The front sight is shaped like a ‘pawn/soldier’ piece in chess (very thin of course). Come to think of it, like a thin elongated roundnose diablo ! Rear sight is a small V shaped groove. There is a screw beside but too damn hard. Cant turn it.

    I think a new piston and a transfer port leather seal would be a good start. Any suggestions on the piston ?


  21. MajorKonig, is there a grove around the loading port? Or is the end of the breach just machined flat?

    Look at the part in the compression tube that the loading port lines up with when the breach is closed. There’s a hole where the air comes through. Is there a seal of some sort around that hole?

    If anything, you probably don’t need a piston… just a piston seal. You might be able to salvage the one you’ve got by soaking it in neatsfoot oil once it’s removed.

    How hard is it to cock the gun? Any strange sounds when cocking or shooting?


  22. MajorKonig,

    You can make your own leather piston seal if necessary, but let’s first find out what gun you have. Please don’t shoot it any more, because that would be like dry-firing.

    Did you by any chance find any deposits in the barrel that look like brown wax? That is a big clue for me.

    Why do you believe your gun is Indian? Do you think it was made in India or just purchased there? Remember, India used to be a British colony, so they did a lot of business with British firms.

    If you could find a place to post some pictures this would probably go faster. Is that possible?

    B.B.


  23. Vince ,

    The port is NOT machined flat. Around the hole where I put the pellet, there is a ring-like groove. Looks like something should have been here and its obviously missing.
    Abt cocking, I dont know how to measure the cocking force, but I can do it with 2 fingers if I pull down the end of the barrel.

    BB,

    Regarding your question, sorry I should have clarified. I AM Indian and the gun as far as I know, was bought from an Indian firm dealing in arms. But abt your point on India having been a British colony, yes, you could have a point there. I didnt think of that. No brown deposits, BTW. You know what, posting pics is exactly what I’ll do. I’ll let you know where. I have a Sony T9 digicam so should be easy.

    BTW, BB has set me thinking. What I now suppose is that the gun is indeed made by some Indian gunsmiths, but it is a copy of some European / Western design. Which one I dont know. Will get the pics. Thats the only way to find out.


  24. MajorKonig,

    Some pictures would really help. If you can take the action out of the stock and take some pictures of the trigger and cocking mechanism, that would be good.

    I’ve got one or two (brand new) leather seals for lower-grade Chinese guns, there’s a chance one of them might fit.

    With regards to the breach seal, you might be able to find a rubber “O” ring that would fit.

    Let us know if you can get the pictures up somewhere… if it’s OK with BB, I can give you a link to an airgun forum where you can upload them.




  25. bb,

    This is an out of the sight question, but I was wondering if the remington genesis and the new crosman Tac 77 had any differences other than that the Tac 77 had more accessorys.



  26. bb,

    Thanks for the opinion. I just wasn’t sure if they had any real critical difference.

    thanks for responding,
    Schwabe93




  27. I’ve got two of these guns… not the limited edition though.

    One with the safety catch which just slides, and one where there’s a little button on the safety catch to move it.

    My question is on BOTH of these guns started to stick after about a week… I’m getting EXTREMELY frustrated. Of course I don’t have receipts after this long while.

    Aside from calling Umarex in a rage, how can I get the triggers back to normal?



  28. Ryan,

    You DO know that Umarex has an office here in the U.S.?

    I have no idea how handy you are. If this were my problem and I didn’t want to go to Umarex, I’d simply disassemble the pistol and fix it. It comes apart like a standard PPK/S firearm, though recent guns have an extra pin that has to be drifted first. For some that’s easy, while for others it’s daunting.

    So where does that leave you?

    B.B.


  29. Hi there…

    thanks for answering. stupid as it may seem, i’d need a manual or a step by step instruction on how to take it apart…

    do you know where i could get one, or how I can get these pistols fixed? will umarex do it without a receipt? or will i have to do it myself?

    loving the blog. definitely bookmarking this.



  30. Umarex sent me a schematic of the CP99/CPSport… but it still doesn’t show me how to take it apart.

    If there’s anyone out there, PLEASE tell me how before I give up on Umarex completely and get a Daisy.


  31. Hi! Sorry to bring this topic back, but I was reading it and I found something strange. I got a P99 with laser and the rear sights of my gun are adjustable by 2 philips bolts! Is it a differente sight??? Or mine is wrong???

    Thanks!


  32. Rafael,

    So what is the strange thing you found? It sounds like you are saying I said the rear sight doesn’t adjust, but I specifically said there is an Allen wrench in the tool kit for it.

    Perhaps you misread the part where I said the sights aren’t useful with the compensator attached?

    B.B.


  33. Thank you for your answer!

    Sorry for the confusion!
    I understood it’s adjustable by using the allen wrench, and that’s what I found strange!

    Well, my gun’s rear sight is adjustable by unscrewing 2 philip bolts under the sight (I have to put it on single-action and hold the rear part of the gun to get access to the bolts).

    You said you wouldn’t remove the rear sight (to install a red dot) because the allen bolt would stracth the gun… but mine, if I unscrew the 2 bolts, the sight just pops off the gun.

    I was reading the user’s guide and there’s a mention about a rear sight sold as an accessorie… never found this for sell, do you think it may be the sight you described???

    Thank you for your time!
    I read your posts from time to time and they are all great! Unfortunately I’m from Brazil and importing airguns is forbidden.



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