by B.B. Pelletier
The first step was to mount the scope that comes with the rifle. It’s a 3-9×32 that has no parallax adjustment, so whenever you shoot closer than about 25 yards you dial the magnification down until the image becomes clear. The scope comes already inserted in one-inch rings, so all you have to do is mount the rings on the base that’s on the spring tube of the rifle.
The scope rings are already installed on the scope. The bases have no scope stop, but you can use the stop on the rifle base.
The rifle base is a strangely notched 11mm dovetail. It would seem that these notches have a purpose, but they don’t work with any scope mounts we know of. The scope stop plate is a plain plate screwed into the top rear of the base.
The scope mounted with the reticle aligned correctly and the rings attached with slotted thumbscrews, so the job was quickly finished. Use a coin to tighten the thumbscrews.
I knew from testing the Walther Falcon Hunter that this rifle doesn’t respond to the artillery hold. This one wants to be held firmly, like a deer rifle. My range was 21 yards and I began the test with Beeman Kodiak pellets. The rifle was on paper in three shots, and the scope adjusted fine. The optics were not as clear as I would like, but you can always upgrade the scope later.
Kodiaks settled into a 3/4″ group. The rifle wants to be held firm into the shoulder and a firm grasp on the forearm, and then it will become very predictable. I also tried Crosman Premier 10.5-grain heavies, but they didn’t group as tight as Kodiaks.
A typical group of Beeman Kodiaks looked like this at 21 yards.
As I shot, two things became clear. First, the trigger was getting smoother very fast. I could actually sense it becoming smoother as I shot, so it probably won’t take but about 500 shots to break in all the way. The second observation is that the scope mount screws need constant attention. They loosen from the harsh vibration of each shot.
I tightened the stock screws just once and was surprised to find that the forearm screws have a LEFT-HAND TWIST! The triggerguard screws are right-hand.
RWS FTS pellets
I also tried RWS FTS pellets. They’re an older domed pellet that weighs 10.5 grains. But they weren’t even on the paper at 21 yards, and since the other pellets were, I didn’t adjust the scope to get them on.
JSB 8.4-grain domed pellets may be best
I ended the test with JSB Exact 8.4-grain domed pellets. They grouped about the same as Kodiaks, on average, but one group was tantalizingly tight.
JSB Exact 8.4-grain pellets grouped about the same as Kodiaks at 21 yards.
This one group of JSBs was much tighter than the rest. I don’t know what caused it, but with more testing this may prove to be the best pellet for this rifle.
The bottom line
Some of you have to shoot a .177 caliber rifle because of legal reasons. If that’s the case, this one’s a real bruiser. But if you can shoot a .22 or .25, I would go with the .22 caliber Walther Falcon Hunter. I say that because there are more good .22 caliber pellets available than there are .25s, and they’re less expensive. And the .22 produces so much more energy than the .177 in a powerful spring rifle like this.
But if you’re going to hunt with a .177 breakbarrel, this one offers a lot of value for a very low price.