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Education / Training A shrine built for a Feinwerkbau 124 – Part 6

A shrine built for a Feinwerkbau 124 – Part 6

by B.B. Pelletier
Tuning by Earl “Mac” McDonald

Part 1
Part 2
Part 3
Part 4
Part 5

The saga of tuning the FWB 124 continues. While he was here, Mac replaced the Mongoose tune in my 124 with a fresh Maccari Old School kit, which consists of a Blizzard piston seal, a short mainspring and a spacer that slides inside the piston ahead of the mainspring. This he cheerfully did.

You may recall that my 124 was giving an average of 800 f.p.s. with the Mongoose kit. I felt that was too slow and wanted just a little more — perhaps 840 with Crosman Premier lites. The words on Maccari’s website seemed to indicate that the Old School tune was the ultimate way to go, so I ordered one.

The kit arrived, and I was going to install it when the hospital adventure began. So, when Mac arrived, he had the time and I asked him to do it for me. He certainly knows how.

He had to use my mainspring compressor to get the rifle apart but was able to put it together with the Old School kit without using the compressor. No Black Tar dampening compound was used with this tune because the Old School kit is supposed to fit so well it doesn’t need it. Mac put some moly grease on the outside of the mainspring and buttoned up the rifle.

In the hospital, I waited with great anticipation for the results, which came the next day. According to Mac, the new tune averaged around 740 f.p.s. with Premier lites. Seven forty! I was devastated! Well, maybe Mac was reading the chronograph wrong. I vowed when I got home that I would check it.

I asked Mac to remove the hump on the piston seal, thinking it might be the cause of the lower compression. He used a Dremel tool rasp to cut the crown smooth, as I requested, but no change in velocity. So much for my theory of the wasted compression space caused by the high crown.

My check
I shot Premier lites and got the following velocities:

770
763
762
764
764

The shots were accompanied by a burning oil smell, so the powerplant may be over-lubricated at some point. I will disassemble it to determine what to do next. On some guns, I might suspect the compression chamber.

I’ve examined the 124’s compression chamber and know that it is in good condition, but allow me to show you one that is not. Remember the Slavia 622 rifles I tested for you a while back? If not, read this.


Forty miles of rough road! This Slavia 622 compression chamber is so rough as to be worthy of a 1970’s Chinese airgun. You can’t see the entire chamber here, just the beginning through the enlarged disassembly hole; but trust me, it looks like that all the way to the end. This will rob hundreds of fps of velocity through loss of compression.

What to do?
My next step will be a teardown to check what’s going on inside this gun. I may be able to refresh the tune and get it up to snuff from there. If not, I may install another type of piston seal left over from 124 testing years ago. The journey continues….

78 thoughts on “A shrine built for a Feinwerkbau 124 – Part 6”

  1. Anyone know the best place for esoteric pellets? I want to expand my collection, and need a place for things that PA doesn’t offer. I will check the usual places like Ebay, but is someone knows of a great place, let me know.

    -Ryan

  2. Good Morning???B.B.,

    What a bummer with your 124. You’ve got my curiosity alerted and wondering what happened? Please don’t make us wait too long. What does Matt think caused it?

    Mr B.

    • Mr. B,

      Mac has no idea what is causing the power loss. I think lubrication might be partly to blame. But that’s the fun of what I’m doing.

      I have tuned many 124s and this is the first one that has given me trouble. So this is a learning opportunity.

      B.B.

  3. BB,last december I acquired an awesome Paul Watts tuned to the hilt FWB124 from Kevin on this blog.I dug out the Paul Watts card for you to get the “recipe”.This gun is definitely at the performance level you are after,shooting Crosman Premiers 7.9 gr @ a smokin’ 878fps!Hobbies go 933fps!
    here is the recipe ver batim;Maccari Volcanix spring,delrin front and rear bushings,buttoned piston & Maccari seal,delrin breech insert.He also milled and deburred the reciever.Other than that the only other work was to the trigger,sight plate and muzzle brake.I hope this info helps in some way.BTW,I just got real lucky and bought[unwittingly]a FWB124 sport action in a repaired,refinished stock,non-Beeman,with a serial# under 10,000.The action is near mint!!!Cost? 350$!

    • Frank B,

      Well, it’s pretty obvious who’s got the magic touch with FWB 124 rifles! Looks like we might have to send our rifle to Paul Watts.

      Thanks,
      Edith

      • Mrs. Gaylord,

        I’ve had two fwb 124’s tuned by Paul Watts along with other guns. Tuning for power is something PW knows how to do but I would vote to have him tune the gun for another reason as well. PW can make the finicky trigger on an fwb 124 sing sweetly. In my opinion, the best tuned fwb 124 isn’t worth much without someone tuning the trigger as well.

        kevin

    • Frank B,

      Great to hear from you! You failed to mention the one of a kind spectacular stock that you installed on that 124. It’s now the ultimate 124.

      kevin

      • Kevin,kinda been missing the heck out of you posting too.I have spent a month two posts behind!Did you read above about the mint action from the first 10,000 that I lucked into?Here’s the funniest part of that story!I bought it represented as an “excellent condition” 124 sport.When it arrived,the stock was completely whizzed!The seller had never seen a 124 in good shape.The hand cut checkering was sanded flat,the original stain was left in patches only where it penetrated deepest and the wrist was cracked from the rear triggerguard screw through 80% to the back on both sides and epoxied back together.The seller was a complete gentleman who offered a full refund.Only after negotiating to keep the action for my “custom Himilayan Walnut” stock and get 75$ back,did I find that the serial # was in the 9,000’s.Your former 124 is now in a Tyrolean stock I made for her that fits me like it was made for me!This way I can shoot her regularly without fear of dinging a stock that is worth so much money!!!

          • I wouldn’t have known how good without your inspiration and experience,as well as BB and this blog!Boy am I grateful….except I have no room in my closets or anywhere else now.Oh well,what a way to go!

  4. Well way off topic (as usual). Most of you know that my wife and I are BIG animal lovers. We are planning to adopt a fifth dog, a beagle. All I’ve been able to find out on the net is that they are good with other dogs and children. That’s good as we have 4 other dogs. I cannot find out anything about how they are around cats. Everything I find says untested. Has anyone had any experience with this breed. We have 9 cats and they sleep with the dogs we have. Actually curl up with them at times. Sorry to be so far off topic, just can’t find anything on the net.

    rikib

    • rikib,

      Don’t you think the other dogs will stop the new dog from hurting or harassing the cats? Usually, animals that sleep together have bonded and will protect each other from newcomers.

      Edith

      • Edith,
        You are right when I think about it. Our great dane even though third in line as far as age pretty much keeps them all in check, but allows the cats to rub on her face and sleep with her. Maybe we are to soft-hearted and should stop receiving emails about animals on death row, but it is hard.

        rikib

  5. I just want to say my new favorite looking pellet at the moment is
    Spitzkigel. I love the pointed tip and the lined skirt. These pellets are stunning. I wish I had more of them, but I need other types before I get crazy with any number of one type.

    -Ryan

  6. BB:
    Although I was keen to get my grubby mitts on my Dad’s Webley Eclipse to tune it up.
    Now I am not so sure.
    He says it is very accurate and has power enough to dispatch rats,which he has managed to shoot a lot of lately.
    Ironically he is now up for the rifle tune and I have gone cold on the idea.
    Certainly for his rifle I think “if it aint broke,then don’t fix it” may be the best policy.
    Making a rifle better is indeed not a forgone conclusion by the look of it.

    Ryan:
    I love the German language.It is so powerful.
    ‘Spitzkigel’ sounds like a Dive Bomber not pellet 🙂
    DaveUK

  7. Hi Edith,

    Do you know when Rick will finally migrate/add all the comments for the blog posts of 2010? I was searching for the link to the Mexican source of specialty pellets for Ryan that I gave B.B. sometime in February or March, but the comments are all still missing.

    -AlanL

  8. Feeling bad about the FB 124 tune even in the hospital, eh? That’s some dedication.

    Slinging Lead, 15 feet offhand is about what I shoot with the IZH 61 but not at moving targets. Those cockroaches that keep going with their heads shot off sound like organic machines–little Terminators. Show them no mercy. That trigger on the 52 sounds very nice and just like I imagined.

    Matt61

      • Sorry to be vague,I am curious if anyone has encountered one from a legitimate source like ARH or anyone else sourcewise.I have one that came on this 124 and I’m questioning the validity of the material….looks like a makeshift silicone fab job.Mainly because of the way it is spreading outward.As some of you know I have a “few” springers…LOL….just never experienced an aftermkt seal that was clear and messy looking.

        • FrankB,
          Sorry, I was thinking of the piston seal, and I was pretty sure I had seen some clear ones on ARH. Sounds like a shadetree job, but I’m not one to talk, my breech seal is black fuel line:).

        • Those seal sets are from some guy selling them on Ebay.( From Canada)
          Very soft seals. Not ours.
          People also need to understand the true velocity of a good 124.
          They came out running around 760-770 fps with under 8 gr pellets with sloppy tolerances, oiled up etc.
          Tom’s hunt for velocity is not valid on such an old gun with a suspect tube.Eyeballing a tube yields nothing. The older they are the worse they shoot as far as power unless you do things to them. Over-springing is the wrong thing to do on those first run of guns. The best 124’s-127’s are in the 40K range as far as velocity.
          Also Tom remembers the days of my Flat faced seals that gave great power. Sadly the Internet crowd for the most part could not size seals in the day and did not appreciate the special material we used and none parachute groove. Often they reached 870-900 fps with 7.9 grs with the same spring that would only give near 800 fps with a different seal.
          I discontinued them just because they were not “novice friendly parts.” However the remembrance of outstanding velocity remained. Although new combos I sell are still good for 840 fps w/7.9 grs in good “in spec.” guns.

          The subject 124 here needs a few tweaks but it most likely is a factory spec gun velocity wise or a hair over. Seen 1000’s.

          I hope Tom is on the mend.
          Best Regards
          JM

          • JM,We are honored by your presence.Your contribution to our hobby elevates us all.I hope we didn’t aggravate you into responding.Of course what you have illuminated makes perfect sense….I have examples of both camps next to me,one tuned to the hilt by Paul with all your precision parts,and one minty early[9,000ish]example with the crappy stock picture.I was in no way maligning ARH with this questionable quality seal….just the opposite.Having been spoiled with your’s and Paul’s excellent labor and parts….this seal stuck out like a purple crayon in a Mont Blanc box! Frank Balistreri

            • Thank you Frank.
              I just got a call to come here about the Ebay seals.
              I do not make them and just wanted people to know that. No harm.
              I typed up some detailed 124 info but this board glitched and it’s gone.
              Maybe when I get a chance I will re-post it.
              Thank you and best regards.
              Jim

          • Jim,

            I’m glad to have your input in this discussion! I didn’t know that the early 124s were so hamstrung. That tip about the 40K series being the fastest is worth it weight in gold.

            I don’t think I have a compression tube glitch, because I have been as high as almost 800 f.p.s. with lites with the Mongoose seal and a custom spring and top hat weight you made for me years ago.

            I’m going to continue to play with the Old School kit because of the smooth shot cycle and whatever it ends up giving will be my velocity. I will include your remarks in the next report, so thanks for them. Please continue to monitor and comment on the blog.

            B.B.

            • Hi Tom,
              First thank you and I hope your are up to snuff these days.

              FWB even changed how the tubes were made from the early days.
              And regardless of what many have said the assembly of such in the early years was not conducive to high power.Especially those sold to other countries. Because to add insult to injury even the UK piston seals had a tremendous parachute groove and those guns often maxed out at 720-750 fps with CPL’s or less. One way to limit power. The 120-121 had tube constrictions that created low power. The novice would put in a heavier spring and realize less power. In those guns, softer makes more power. Less piston seal distortion.

              Get a bunch of 124’s together and inspect the tubes- look at the bottom and you will see the answer. And if you ever polish one for a re-blue that in itself will reveal some not so nice information. Hint- The steel reveals many answers.

              Back to your gun. The latest Old School kit has a new spring that has a bit more preload than yours. Good for more fps in a correct tube but your same spring would power a basic good 124 to 870 fps with a flat seal using CPL’s in the day.

              The only way to really see what is going on with a tube is to hone it first and that in itself is better than measuring the tube. You can not measure every fraction of an inch of a tube as it would take forever. Hone it once and take a look at the mess you will find in just about every make of gun. Bad spots will flash as the hone will reveal only the touched high surfaces. However to the naked eye before the honing they all look good.

              The power you got with the Mongoose kit was fine and over spec but not in the realm of a “nice” one. The trick if you have many FWB’s as I do- last count over 50 of them. Ten or so as research tools. You can take a slow kit from the offending gun and drop it in another gun. This trick before the hone is pretty fool proof. You may drop in a 680 fps kit and get 840 fps in another gun with no alterations. Did it and seen it many times. This saves the guess work out of all of it. Your kit specs are not hot but above basic factory specs.

              People tend to forget the power race to 800 fps was often with 6.9 grain Hobbies and the 7.4 gr Wasp etc as in the old Diana 45- Wischo’s etc. I know your well aware of this. But many are not.

              If you want to have a more pre-load Old School spring let me know. I think I’m on my 14th batch or so. First generation was 28 coils if you remember back that far.
              BTW- The R5- My memory of those was the barrel was not to todays spring gun specifications and thus was not very good. Just like the Sterling .20 Walthers, built more to the real .20 standard of Sheridan and not closer to the .195″. Hence made for a rough shooting guns. Those old Walther barrels from the day in .20 need more choke put in and to have the breech cut back and chamfered tighter to make them work in a spring gun. I see that as the real reason for the R5 failing. Those barrels are harsh and nasty and none to accurate unless reworked.

              Best regards
              jm

              • Jim,

                I have encountered tapered compression tubes before, but I wasn’t aware that the 124 guns had them. Okay, then. My 124 is pretty early–in the late 6,000 range. So it’s probably going to be an 800 f.p.s. or less gun. Of the dozen or so 124s I have tuned, using your parts, this is the only one I couldn’t make go faster. Mac McDonald’s rifle came out at 880 for me and I thought I was a miracle worker. Now I know better.

                Of course I don’t need the speed. I have plenty of guns that go faster and this was simply an exercise for the readers. It began as a rotted original seal and then I got hung up on velocity because I kept failing to produce what I thought was a given.

                Actually this has been a good lesson in what to expect, and an excellent look at the evolution of the 124. Thank you for your comments.

                B.B.

  9. Sorry to hijack this, but I just cleaned the barrel of my brand new RWS 34P with Hoppe’s #9 solvent and put mineral oil on the o-ring. I then ran several patches thru until they were clean.

    10 minutes later I read that that is a terrible thing to do.

    What should I do? Help please.

    • I don’t think you’ve done anything terrible. First, I can’t see how Hoppe’s #9 will harm a steel barrel; it might not be good for the breech seal and piston seal, but unless you got a lot on them, you should be OK. I’m not sure I understand the part about oiling the breech seal with mineral oil. If you just put a little on it with the intention of softening it, wipe of what you can and forget about it. Unless it turns to goo, you probably haven’t done any major harm. If you poured oil down the port (surrounded by the seal), well, that was not so good — it can diesel violently (you’ll know!) and damage the seal and spring. Best to take it apart and clean out the oil. Hope you didn’t do that, though:)! Does that help?

      • That helped a bunch. Thank you. I already wiped what I could off of the breach seal. And I’m pretty sure I didn’t put any oil down any ports or anything. So I hope I’ll be OK. Cheers.

  10. Hello all,

    I just wanted to post a bit of an update. I ordered a Centerpoint 4-16X40 scope from Amazon yesterday. Next day shipping with Amazon Prime was less than $5, so I went ahead and selected that option and the scope arrived today. I’m pretty impressed with it so far (though the real test will be how it works on the rifle).

    My Marauder is supposed to show up tomorrow. I had a 10% off coupon code for PA for the Marauder order and saved enough to cover the cost of 2nd day air shipping.

    So, tomorrow is the big day!

    As for the Centerpoint scope, I’m really surprised at how nice some of the features are for an under $100 scope. It has a mildot reticle with both red and green illumination, adjustable objective, flip up lens covers, and it came with a set of take-down shooting sticks. The click adjustments give a positive tactile feedback and the clicks are nice and loud.

    But the thing that really impressed me is the way the turrets are set up. You can reset the zero after your scope is sighted in (which isn’t unique in and of itself), but instead of the typical system where you use three set screws around the perimeter of the knob, these turrets are zero locked by a single, larger screw right in the center of the cap. What’s even more interesting is they have turret lock rings at the base of the turrets that when tightened, lock the turret adjustment so they cannot be turned.

    In the past, I always had trouble when resetting zero on turrets because it is very easy to move the turrets while you’re trying to loosen or tighten the set screws. This system seems to be able to reduce the likelihood of this happening.

    The only negatives so far (before actually shooting with it) are a somewhat stiff objective focus and illumination knob. The zoom ring is nice and smooth. If this thing is able to repeat zero after adjusting the knobs for different ranges, I might just order a couple more for some of my centerfire rifles.

    • RoninUT,
      I have noticed the stiff objective also. It is very hard for me to sight through the scope and turn the objective at the same time. I’m hoping it loosens up a bit with use, but not too much, mind you 🙂
      -CJr

  11. BB / Edith; Re Walther Lever Action Rifle (Winchester look alike)

    Sent this to PA but have not heard back from them.

    Do you or others on the blog have any input?
    ———————————————————
    I have been looking at this rifle to purchase but… I have noticed that the Barrel Band and the Front Sight are very popular aftermarket sales items across the many internet airgun sites including PA.

    Normally, when aftermarket or replacement component sales are that common, there is a defect or problem with the OEM or original design components.

    Just wondering if that is the case with the Barrel Band and the Front Sight on this rifle?

    • Brian,

      The reason Pyramyd AIR has the parts listed is not because there’s something wrong with the gun. When they bought out Airgun Express 5 years ago, they got all the inventory. Airgun Express was an authorized RWS repair station for all guns sold by RWS USA, which was located in New Jersey. Since they repaired the guns, they had to stock all the replacement parts, which included the barrel band and front sight. In a way, this actually means those parts are NOT issues. If they were problems, then Pyramyd AIR wouldn’t have gotten so many when they bought Airgun Express 🙂

      We have a Walther Lever Action and have not experienced any problems with ours.

      Edith

    • Brian,
      Thank you for making me dissatisfied with my Walther Lever Action barrel band and front sight. I got mine out to see if there was anything problematic with then but didn’t see thing except maybe an aesthetic issue. The front sight is smooth non-gloss plastic but adjustable for windage. The barrel band looks like a rough non-gloss plastic. I would say that the barrel band may not be authentic looking? The rest of the metal on the gun is gloss black so the barrel band being non-gloss doesn’t look correct. The front sight being plastic and non-gloss may not be authentic either. The hood snaps off allowing access to a screw to remove the sight and the sight blade itself is a friction fit that slides left and right. I suppose after many adjustments it could become loose but right now it’s pretty tight. If you drop the gun on its front sight or the barrel band they could break requiring replacement.

      Are these after market parts you are seeing metal?

      -CJr

    • Oh, and Brian, I forgot to say, I really like this rifle. I am more proud to show it off than any of my others because of its looks. It’s fun to shoot, too, and I love the lever action aspect. Pretty cool! Feels and cocks like a real lever action rifle. Very realistic in that regard.
      -CJr

  12. Who knows? Maybe the 124 will shoot like a lazer and that’s not such a bad thing.

    Will, as long as you wiped your seals clean of solvent, you should be ok. I would just keep away from them with solvents. Like BG said…on metal it’s ok, but probably over kill on an airgun.

    Mineral oil should be ok. It’s better than no oil.

    Hitting with a clean at the end is always a nice touch.

    Is there anyway to search the archives? Will it be indexed someday?

  13. Frank B!

    You are inspiring. On June 15, 2010 at 12:13 am you stated in a post to me, “No new rifles to report.” Then at June 15, 2010 at 1:23 am you post, and I quote, “I just got real lucky and bought[unwittingly]a FWB124 sport action in a repaired,refinished stock,non-Beeman,with a serial# under 10,000.”

    That is amazing! An hour and 10 minutes is all it takes for Frank B to score a deal on a vintage gun.

    On a more serious note, it is no wonder I can never find any good deals on these classic rifles, as you, Derrick and Volvo swipe them all up. I am left scrolling through gunbroker ads where unremarkable crap costs 10% above retail. It is a very sad situation. Kinda brings a tear to your eye.

    Pointed balls? Mmmmm. I am sorry to disappoint you Frank B, but I got nothing. It is funny enough on its own, any embellishment on my part and the steadfast Edith would just edit it out. That reminds me, have I ever told you the pig farmer joke?

    • I am ACTUALLY laughing out loud!Damn! You caught me.I am exibiting classic denial or something.No,your honor,I have been clean!well,except for a couple slip-ups!!!!BUSTED:Frank B,addict.
      Ps.sounds like you better EMAIL the pig farmer joke….hell,I’m already laughing.:]

  14. rikib

    My lovely wife runs a one-woman dog walking business. Sometimes she keeps choice clients’ dogs at our place for a weekend if they are away. One of them is a Beagle. My cat, a tiny little 6 pound runt of a Tabby, eats the beagle’s food, sleeps on her bed and generally terrorizes the poor thing the whole visit. Every dog is different of course. Man, I LOVE Great Danes. Your Husky is a cutie too.

    • SL,
      Thanks, for that info. We have been looking from down here in South GA to about Macon, GA. Found several, but now the hard part. Choosing which one, we want them all!

      rikib

  15. BB

    I LOVE that last photograph!!! I am thinking of blowing it up and getting a blacklight. Please tell us how you did that.

    It is good to have you back.

    • Slinging Lead,

      B.B. says:

      I used a high-intensity flashlight and shined it down the tube and took the picture. It’s a macro shot, so focus is important.

      Edith

  16. I guess shortly we will listening to the Pres. about the oil spill. It has been a disaster. One thing I don’t understand is that the news never seems to mention the loss of life that occurred. I am big into the environment, but people lost their life on that rig. Maybe I’m just missing it in the news.

    rikib

    • Riki,

      Yep, it bugs me too.

      As a child of the oil patch, I notice this kind of thing also. And, it’s not just the news folks. Almost no one I have spoken to about this particular goat rodeo have mentioned the eleven men on the rig, some of whom probably died trying to shut the blow-out preventers prior to the initial explosion.

  17. Never understood the FWB 124 hype, mine was still doing less than 800 fps after a tune with a JM artic kit. Odd sort of square shape to the stock also.

    You guys talked me into one a week. Stop by if you would like.

    • Volvo,that is great!If you want to check out a different stock shape for a 124,I’ll set you up a great Tyrolean.It really changes the “personality”!Which of the “four horsemen ” was your favorite?R1?BSF?

    • RoninUT,

      I’ve had my eye on that for a while now. It will make the PCP market much more affordable and attainable for many people.

      No offense to Tom Kaye, but I hope the price levels out soon. When Tom first put up his facebook page, he said it was hopefully going to retail for around $200. Then it was $250-300. Now I see it’s up as high as $500. I know R&D ain’t cheap, but now it’s comparable to the price of a new CF tank. At $200, many people would find a way to purchase both the compressor and a tank. At $500, many of those same people would be forced to choose between one or the other.

      – Orin

      • Orin and RoninUT,

        I HAVE to respond to this discussion. This is the way things always progress with someone who is trying to bring a new product to market for the first time. Every year at the SHOT Show I see new products that I know will never come to market.

        There have been several development projects working on a low-cost compressor for the past five years. One is now in the late development stages. It’s a 3,000 psi model, which is much easier to build than a 4,500 psi model, where longevity is concerned.

        Real development projects like this go through dozens of iterations and lots of field testing before coming to market.

        B.B.

        • B.B.,

          Pyramyd AIR is aware of the compressor that RoninUT mentions. We got a link to this item earlier this year (while you were in the hospital), and Pyramyd AIR immediately contacted the developer. They’re watching this very closely. If it comes to market and performs as advertised, they’ll carry it.

          Edith

          • I’m pretty excited about it.

            I still have my old Automag Classic paintball marker in a box in the basement (a Tom Kaye design). It was innovative for it’s time, and the originals were built to last with solid stainless steel regs and valves.

            Even at $500, it’s still WAY better priced than the $3000 Bauer scuba compressors.

            Though the specs stated that it requires a conventional “shop” air compressor in the input for it to work efficiently, which will add to the overall cost for those who do not already have a shop compressor.

            Also, it is supposed to take 4 hours to fill a 68 cu. in. tank to 4500 psi. This is the kind of thing you will want to set up in your garage and forget it until morning. I’d be inclined to buy a scuba tank and the 3000 psi model and just let it run for a week.

            Still, it beats $3000 for a Bauer, and someone needs to come up with a reasonably priced home use compressor for the growing HPA market for both paintball and PCP airguns.

      • For some people (like me) it’s more about convenience than price. The CF tanks still need to be filled somewhere, as do scuba tanks. To me, that’s only prolonging the inevitable. At some point you’re going to have to go to a dive shop. Unfortunately, there is no place that can fill a scuba tank within 100 miles of me, and the local paintball store uses a scuba cascade to fill their paintball tanks.

        I have been thinking about ways to mount a linear actuator to my hand pump and work out a duty cycle timer for cool down periods. Then a pressure relay to cut power when it reaches a predetermined pressure would be needed.

        Actually, a cheap garage door opener might be just the ticket to run one of the hand pumps. 😀

    • ajvenom,

      That’s my plan for the future, but right now my first child (a little girl) is not even a month old yet. It will be a few years before she can pump up an air reservoir. 😀

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    We have a team of expert technicians and a complete repair shop that are able to service a large variety of brands/models of airguns. Additionally, we are a factory-authorized repair/warranty station for popular brands such as Air Arms, Air Venturi, Crosman, Diana, Seneca, and Weihrauch airguns.

    Our experts also offer exclusive 10-for-$10 Test and 20-for-$20 Service, which evaluates your air gun prior to leaving our warehouse. You'll be able to add these services as you place your order.

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  • Warranty Info

    Shop and purchase with confidence knowing that all of our air guns (except airsoft) are protected by a minimum 1-year manufacturer's warranty from the date of purchase unless otherwise noted on the product page.

    A warranty is provided by each manufacturer to ensure that your product is free of defect in both materials and workmanship.

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  • Exchanges / Refunds

    Didn't get what you wanted or have a problem? We understand that sometimes things aren't right and our team is serious about resolving these issues quickly. We can often help you fix small to medium issues over the phone or email.

    If you need to return an item please read our return policy.

    Learn About Returns

TEST Get FREE shipping on qualifying orders! Any order $150+ with a shipping address in the contiguous US will receive the option for free ground shipping on items sold & shipped by Pyramyd AIR during checkout. Certain restrictions apply.

Free shipping may not be combined with a coupon unless stated otherwise.

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