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Crosman 2200 new/old stock

Introduction by B.B. Pelletier

Guest blogger
Here’s another guest blogger. Joe G. from Jersey tells us his tale of discovery with a new/old airgun. I liked this story because of my own experience with the very same model.
If you would like to write a post for this blog, please contact me at blogger@pyramydair.com.

Bloggers must be proficient in the simple html that Blogger software allows, know how to take clear photos and size them for the internet (if their post requires them) and they must use proper English. We will edit each submission, but we won’t work on any submission that contains gross spelling or grammatical errors.

Take it away, Joe!

Crosman 2200 new/old stock

By Joe G from Jersey

Let me start by saying I enjoy air gunning. I love the ability to shoot whenever I like; garage space for me is ideal. One of the joys is looking for inexpensive guns and seeing how well they can shoot.

Over the winter, I had the opportunity to buy a brand new Crosman 2200. Crosman stopped production on this rifle around 2004. Well, I dealt out my $39 and was thrilled with the deal.


Just like any kid at Christmas, I could not wait to get home and try this old classic. I had a little time on my hands before my kids came home from school, so I opened the box, eager to see what it held. Wow! This is brand-new vintage stuff. I’m excited! Everything was looking good.

The first shot
This is where things started going down hill faster then a cheetah chasing an antelope at dinner time. I grabbed the pump handle and started the ritual every pneumatic pump shooter goes through. I’m thinking this is way too easy. Holding the gun gently, I squeezed the trigger and…no bam, no noise, no pellet leaving the barrel, let alone hitting the target. What the heck? This gun is brand new. What’s going on?

Gathering my thoughts and picking myself up off the floor after the huge letdown, I started by inspecting the pump lever. I noticed that it was disconnected from the piston. Ahhh, that’s why it was so darn easy to pump!

Giving it some thought, I figured that the oil had hardened and frozen the seal to the chamber while the gun was stored in its box for the last 3 or 4 years. Time to take my new gun apart. Thanks to Crosman’s parts diagrams and my mechanical ability, I felt confident I could fix this small mess. And I did.

I also had to use a little Crazy Glue on the pump head, where it attaches to the piston. Before that, it would separate from the pump arm if you pumped too fast.

The second “first” shot
The little Crosman was now shooting! Velocity with 5 pumps was 475 fps avg. with Crosman Premier pellets. Around 600 fps with 10 pumps. No air leaks after sitting.

On paper targets, though, things were looking bad, again. I was getting really bad flyers with various pellets. They looked like curve balls being thrown by a major league player. The Bushnell 3-9x AO scope that I’d mounted was removed, but I still had flyers using the open sights. We’re talking about shooting a distance of only five yards. Half-inch groups were opening up to 6-inch groups. I’m an average shot, but to yank shots 6 inches off target at that distance was almost impossible. A blind caveman couldn’t do it if he tried.

This time, I looked at the barrel. The crown looked like it had been chewed out by a beaver. I disassembled the little beast, again. I removed the last 1/4″ of the barrel with a pipe cutter and reamed a new crown with a countersink bit and J-B Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound. The barrel now looked better than new. I knew it could not shoot worse than before, so confidence was high. During reassembly, I bedded the chamber block with J-B weld so it wouldn’t wiggle.

Success at last!
Back to the bench. The flyers were gone, and the rifle was shooting ragged 1-hole groups. At 10 yards, Premiers and RWS Superpoint Extras were holding 1/2″ to 3/4″ groups. Not a target gun by any means, but now it was fun to shoot and good enough to bag a pest here and there.

Bottom line: I like the rifle a lot. It was worth the price I paid and then some. And, the tinkering made it all the better. Hey, what fun is it if the little Crosman shot well without the work?




Here’s how it shot:

    • 14.3-gr. Crosman Premiers = 469 fps with 5 pumps; 590 fps with 10 pumps


    • 14.5-gr. RWS Super Point Extras = 456 fps with 5 pumps; 570 fps with 10 pumps


    • 18.2-gr. Crow Magnums = 425 fps with 5 pumps; 520 fps with 10 pumps



author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

56 thoughts on “Crosman 2200 new/old stock”

  1. BB,
    Just when I thought this blog could not get any better! The idea of guest bloggers is great as it just adds to the interest and diversity of airguning. I began shooting as a very young child with the encouragement and guidance of my father. As time went on, life took me in differnt directions which sometimes makes you forget about this simple passion. Now that my children are coming of age, they share this same interest in shooting. I have spent a lot of quality time with them with the benefit of this sport. This blog has really helped to renew my interest in collecting and shooting my airguns. I am sure many of your readers would agree. Thank you, everyday, for the great writing.


  2. B.B.-thanks for the info-posting here because this will be the easiest spot to remember. On my rwd 350 sight in at 20 yrds not 25? I thought that a rifle like the 350, has the velocity to sight in a little further and thus givineg you a little more distance before it moves of plane-I thought it would give it a longer sweet spot? Am I wrong again? and I only use a pellet 10gr or higher–thanks -Sxott298

  3. Scott298,

    If you sight-in at 20 yards you will get the longest flat spot (20-30 yards) possible for an airgun. By moving out to 25 yards, you will reduce the flat spot by about 50 percent 25-30 yards).

    I sight in at 20 for my Condor, too.


  4. Interesting article. I’m about to rebuild a Crosman 130. Looks easy enough but….
    Anyway, I like the guest blogger fearure too. Thanks for making a great blog even better.

  5. Good article, but the one thing that remains to be said is that whether the rifle cost $39 or 39 cents, your brand new rifle was defective and of poor quality out of the box. Anyone without the skills to perform the repairs that you did (such as myself) would be out of luck.

    Nonetheless, good read.

  6. JP, you bring up an interesting point. I consider myself to be good with tools though no real experience with airgun tinkering…maybe buying one of the lower end guns for tinkering practice is the way to go? I shudder to think what would happen to my beloved Shadow 1000 if I took it apart.

  7. BB,

    Joe’s great post reminded me of an annoying problem with my springer. The cocking arm has loosened where it is riveted through the breech block. Since it’s riveted, I can’t figure out a way to tighten it. It makes an otherwise improving springer sound cheap.

    Any ideas?


    PS: The guest blogs are a great addition.

  8. Joe,

    This is written in a way that makes it seem really possible to do all this. I would have just sent the gun back right away. This also reminds me that in the quest for high velocity, one feature of low-velocity (and often cheap) guns is that you can shoot them indoors which is to say all the time. The only reason I’m not shooting more than my 250 shots a night is that it is starting to eat into some other activities and has me dragging into work in the morning. But if shooting skill is the goal, it’s hard to beat the low-velocity guns and the range time you can get.

    Having said that, B.B. and all, I’m ready to enter the world of firearms. My Winchester 94 is on the way from the shop and so are my 60 rounds of heavily discounted Federal Power-Shok ammo from Midway. He he. All that remains is the right maintenance equipment. I’m guessing that Ballistol will do for the outside, so that leaves the bore. Can anyone recommend a good bore solvent? B.B. was the Sweet 7.62 bore solvent that you recommended for copper fouling only or for general bore cleaning? I was wondering if I could use it as my general solvent.


  9. Sorry im relisting this..cant find my other note. Im thinking of a 22 cal rifle either RWS34, RWS 34 Panther or RM600 Mendoza. Any thoughts on these and also types of scopes and mounts..thanks,Tom

  10. JP That is a fine point about the mishaps on this rifle. I must admit its not the first nor will it be the last airgun I buy that has problems. In fact I had at least 4 in the past several months from diffrent manufacturers that had some sort of problem that most people would send back.

    Matt thank God I’v been blessed with skill and and over abundance of confidence. I just approach the problem like any other, one step at a time.

    Living in New Jersey makes it a huge problem for airgunning. Airguns are the same as firearms here. What that means is I have a problem stores are not allowed to take them back, the paper work and serial numbers are in my name. And as far as sending back to the manufacturer that creats even more problems with shipping. So I learn to fix my own guns.

    TC thanks for the compliment.

    Joe G from Jersey

  11. Matt61,

    Sweet’s 7.62 is just for copper and brass fouling. It’s very caustic stuff, though it won’t harm your barrel if you use it correctly.

    Although they reformulated it several years ago, I still like Hoppe’s No. 9 the best. I use Blue Wonder as a second choice, though it’s almost a caustic as Sweet’s.


  12. BB,

    Do you know if any of the Crosman and Daisy airguns that Pyramyd is currently selling has a “F” marking on it. I ask because I’m thinking of buying one as a gift to be send over to Germany.


  13. TC,

    On the rifle I have, the connection is not a rivet – it’s a pin. Drive it from right to left and it should come out.

    If it is a rivet, you’ll have to drive it out, then stake it when you drive it back. That often doesn’t work well.

    Also I must say mine is loose, too, but no more so than any other breakbarrel. Is yours loose or is this the only one you have seen?


  14. Joe,

    Many Daisy and Crosman airguns should have a freimark on them, because they meet German law on less than 7.5 joules and they sell them in that country/.

    Call Pyramyd AIR for specific information. They are near the warehouse. I’m 1200 miles away.


  15. I’m thoroughly enjoying the guest bloggers. You guys are really great to share your experiences with us.


    Please don’t forget about the Running Target blog. I think I was appointed to hound you occasionally until it happens.

    I’m not sure either about how to do a reader poll regarding what kind and/or how many airguns readers have. Is there reader interest for this kind of info?


  16. Great blog Joe G!

    I too, am cursed with fixing things that should be sent back. Sometimes, it’s really handy to do so though! Mine usually comes from the thought “Well, it will only take me a day or 2 to fix this, as opposed to waiting a month”…

    I would hope that someone is working on that goofy NJ law. BATFE doesn’t consider them firearms, why should NJ?


  17. BB and Derrick,

    I wouldn’t be opposed to a poll. I’d also be interested to know who has what and how many out of curiosity. It could even include “real firearms”. I don’t have any guns that are worth a lot anyway, so it doesn’t bother me. Although, I wonder if some might object on the basis of not wanting to give out that info on a public site. I’d suppose they could politely decline or just ignore the poll. The poll could be announced and reminded every day for a week and people could just post what they have in the blog here over the weekend. Seems that’s when most peoples have time to catch up with the blog and maybe write something. Just my $.02


  18. BB,

    I guess mine is sort of a splined pin. The only thing I have to compare it to is my son’s little Gamo Cadet Delta. His gun has no side play or slop at the cocking arm connection. I was trying to figure out how to shim it or something. If it is a pin that I can drive out and back then maybe that’s the answer. Any comments would be appreciated.

    On a brighter note, I am finally finding this gun to be fun to shoot. I found that it likes pellets on the heavy side. I shot a cloverleaf at 15 yards for the first time and now I know that it will indeed shoot. I was really frustrated for a while and about ready to throw it away, now I’ve got something to work with.

    Thanks for your encouragement to keep working on the artillery hold. Without your site and it’s vast information I would have written off springers as too aggravating.


  19. B.B.

    Thanks, Hoppe’s #9 it will be.

    All, that’s a good point about the delay in having someone else fix your guns. I would say that half my collection is being repaired and has been for some time. The 1077 has been away getting repaired as much as I’ve had it since I bought it in September. Fixing your own is the way to go if you can do it. On the other hand, breaking my guns from ineptitude would be the worst.

    I would be interested in a poll of number and types of airguns/firearms and am willing to contribute.


  20. Shim,

    While the 2200 was phased out, the 2100 – the .177 version of the gun – is still produced. So I don’t think the pump problem is caused by using up the last parts, because both models are identical, except for the barrels.

    But if you had the same problem there may be a weakness in the pump mechanism.


  21. I’m glad that there is an air gun fan in the Peoples Republic of New Jersey IE: Jersey Joe.” No offence meant but that state has the strictest most unfair gun laws in the country bar none” Air Guns,Air Soft etc. are considered firearms and pistols need a permit which also can be used to buy a cartridge gun.So imagine my surprise that someone from the Garden Apartment state would publicly admit that he is into them,which unless you are hidden from view or live on a lot of acreage in order to use an air gun”you would be arrested and your Fire arm ID card will be taken and you will be charged with discharging a firearm etc.Nothing from any Air Gun house can be sent there not even a pea shooter,cap gun, slingshot,blow gun,of course any Air or Air soft arm.I should know after living there most of my life,I finally moved out and now live in a free state,I will never forget the first Air gun I ordered from Pyramyd which I never could of done in the Peoples Republic Of New Jersey” Sorry everyone but I could help venting my speen. From free at last Air Gun Mike.

  22. Air Gun Mike,

    We are glad to receive your comments, but you emailed them to the Guest Blogger address.

    The way to post comments to this blog is to enter them in the comments box at the bottom of the list and submit. You will have to go through word verification, which is a pain, but necessary to keep the auto-spammers out of here.


  23. Hey BB!! Did you forget my quetion about temperature changes? Or have I looked at the wrong page?!? I just had the pleasure of looking at an old “model 312”, .22 cal Benjamin “Benjamin Franklin” Edition belonging to a co-worker. I know there’s the ‘Franklin’ myth, but it is stamped outon the left side of the compression tube/chamber so I assume it was a limited edition model. He asked me if I could find some info about it, and I have the serial #. On the back on the bolt plate, the Benjamin Rifle Co, St. Louis Missourri is stamped on it. It was a real treat to hold it, and it still works too!!!! On question I have, is it looks like there was a plate on the left side of the stock, and there are four screws where something was originally. Could this have been a name plate? Thanks, Thomas
    P.S. The Serial # is H188525

  24. Thomas,

    The words Benjamin Franklin are inside quotes. That makes them NOT TRUE! It’s called a play on words. Why don’t people understand that?

    ALL Benjamin rifles made during a certain period of time say “Benjamin Franklin” on the side. It’s a play on the company name – th Benjamin Air Rifle Company. It’s like the Chevy Impala having a stylistic metal impala on the side of the car. That piece of chrome doesn’t make the car a game animal.


  25. BB, I understand. LOL’s I have read Some of your earlier blogs about the “Myth”. I can’t tell the subject wears on your nerves. But It was a really neat looking piece of ‘Americanna’. Can you recomend a blog or out-side internet source for more info on it? Any ideas why my accuracy went to heck yesterday? Can the temps play havoc on break-barrels? Thomas

  26. Thomas,

    Temperature can ruin the zero of a scope. I have a new article (not this blog, but an article in the articles section) on scope shift coming out in a few days. That will explain it a little.

    You want more internet info on a Benjamin gun? There isn’t much. The auction sites have photos, but you need to get Blue Book of Airguns if you really want to learn about them.


  27. That’s a big 10-4 BB. Thanks. I look forward to reading your new article on the temp issue. I would like to post a comment of my experience with the Crosman brand pellets.
    Starting with the high velocity Silver Eagles HP’s. I found them to be too light for my 800 fps Benji. They had a lot of richochet coming of the pellet trap and they also didn’t “spread out” with the hollow point. With the 1000fps rifle, they did stick too the trap, with fewer bounch backs, but still not much difference in size on impact. I do get a kick from listenning to them zip out of my springer, but being as light as they are, they may be too light, and damage the action in the gun. Similar to dry firing. I don’t use them in the 397, for fear they may damage the brass barrel rifleing. As for accuracy, They are good 20/25 yarders, but 30 yards is asking a bit much. We all know every rifle is different, so they may work better in some than in others.
    The Crosman Field hunting pellets, are ok in both rifles, and I’ve used them alot with the “breaking in period” on my springer. Being in expensive is a plus, but I’ve noticed a few more ‘wild flyers’ with them than most of the other pellets I’ve experimented with. Never noticed alot of deformed pellets in the tins, but not crazy about the edge left during the molding process. Another decent 20 yarder for plinking cans around the back yard.
    The Crosman HP Premiers are a better quality pellet, and I liked them because they were “cleaner”, and the accuracy is somewhat closer. Also liked the thinner skirt of these pellets. They did seem to keep a better line and accuracy at my new 30 yard trap this weekend. Still not up with the RWS’s, but a good pellet none the less.
    Lastly is the Crosman Destoyers. Surprisingly enough these are the best pellets I’ve used in the Crosman line with both my .17 cal rifles. I like the semi-wadcutter shape, and the spread they give on impact. As a matter of fact, this pellet was what I used when I hit the dead-center bull’s-eye this weekend,..with my Benji at 97 feet. I wish they had a cleaner Premier version of this pellet, and offer it in a .22 cal. The semi wad-cutter shape seems to really grab the rifling in both my .17 cal guns, making it one of the better “American Made” pellets. But this is only my opinion.
    Being more into small game hunting and not competition shooting, I don’t take a scientific approach to shooting from benches/bags. Only to line up the scopes will I use bags. Besides it would be a pain carrying them around in the woods. Hope you might find my veiws helpful, and happy shooting. Thomas

  28. BB, Beats me, I’m not sure, where the article is, but we’ll keep looking for it. But you did say you’ll have another installment of Scope Shift in a few days. The problem I had this weekend was when the temperature dropped, my accuracy went to pot!!! Glad you’ve been helpful throughout my experience with my Sierra Pro so far, and hope you will be able to assist me more in the future. I did read somewhere ( maybe and old blog from the 397/392 page) that you don’t own a 397. I’d figured being a big name in this sport, you’d get rifles from every manufacturure in the business!!! For the price, you can’t beat it! Thomas

  29. Just finished reading the articles you mentionned. I was wondering if you had a blog showing a detailed description of the interior design/mechanics of a scope. By that I mean the scope tube and how the adjustments work. Also, I had an idea of what may have happenned with mine this weekend. So hear it goes,….. You know how it’s always cautionned not to over tighten the rings on a scope? Well perhaps the change in temperature doesn’t effect the scope itself as much as it does the hardware (rings/mounts etc) holding the scope to a weapon, be it a rifle and/or hand gun. I always put a firm torque on the rings in a pattern you’ve suggested (alternating screws), but maybe too much torque causes this problem. Tonight I’m going to back them all of a bit (keeping them snugged of course)and see if this lets the scope relax/breath a little more. Tomorrow after work I’ll report my findings of this hypothesis and let you know how things go. Thanks again, Thomas

  30. Hey BB, I was browsing through one of the local pawn shops a few weeks ago, and came upon a Marksman breakbarrel Model ‘0025’. I emailed marksman/beeman (Gamo?!?!?) and inquired about it, but never got a response back. Have you ever heard of this model or know anything about it? I have a feeling it was made before the Marksman Co was bought out, but not even sure if it’s actually a Marksman product. I’ll see if they still have it and see if I can get some more #’s on it. Thanks, Thomas

  31. Sorry BB, I meannt to type “0035” instead of 0025. There was a Model # at the breech area that started something like 441c-395…..? Hope this helps you out, Thomas

  32. Thomas,

    There was a Marksman 2025 – an inexpensive youth model with a lot of plastic in it.

    Marksman and Beeman are both owned by SR Industries. Gamo is owned by a different company.

    You REALLY need to buy a copy of the Blue Book of Airguns, as it will be a great resource for your curiosity. They sell it here at Pyramyd AIR, in the Books and Videos section.


  33. Will do BB. This was an adult sized rifle, and it looked and felt pretty sturdy. Didn’t notice any plastic at all. If it’s still there and the price is right, I might pick it up. I’ll let you know more on that, and will also let you know of my test results with the “relaxed” scope. Thomas

  34. Hey BB. I went by the pawn shop and they still had it. They were asking $75, but I bargainned him down to $60. It’s a Marksman 0035, and the serial # is 12833-00-, It also has a pentagon with an “F” in the middle of it. 44-1C above it. Made in Spain. On the other side of the breech it says ‘Owners manual free from Marksman Corp, Huntington Beach, California, USA. Going on the premise of the later Crossman serial # formula, I’d take a stab that it was made December 1983,….but who knows. I’ll have to do some more research into it. This rifle shoots fairly accurate with the factory sights, and weighs somewhere around the 7 lbs. The rear sight is missing the elevation turret, and the windage screw/adjustment is a bit warped (not perfectly vertical). Still, I am pleased so far with it’s performance. If I had to guess, I’d guesstimate this rifle was in the 650 to 800 fps range. Don’t have a “chronny’ to test it. Just an ear. I do plan to scope it, and it would probably be wise to add a scope stop as there is no scope stop hole to set it with. It would be nice to “grease” the spring since it has a rather long buzz after recoilling. I’ll check out the Beemans and see if they offer a similar model in looks, weight,etc. And now for the Sierra report!!!!…. As I stated last night, I loosened the scope ring screws to allow the whole scope to relax. Today I snugged them down with the long end of the allen wrench in the hex-head as you’ve stated somewhere in your blogs I’ve read. “just finger tight”!! It wasn’t long (maybe three or four rounds) until I had it zeroed in to my “hunter” satisfaction! LOL’s. I think my idea worked out pretty good. Then I had another idea today….. I’m not a big fan of the 4 screw type scope ring. So Knowing how much steel can “move” at various temperatures, I thought to myself “why not buffer the scope a little bit,….let it move naturally without being fixed so firm that it binds itself trying to move”???? Are you with me so far BB?? I’m going to take one of the hex-head screws to the local hardware store and see if I can find 8 rubber O-Rings (a complete set) to put between the top half of the ring assembly and the bottum assembly. Just big enough to slide over the diameter of the threads of the screw. Who knows, this may even lessen the shock of recoil on the scope as a hole. After thinking about this for a while, I really believe that the temperature had move of an adverse effect on the outer tube of the scope than the inner “mechanics/tube/reticles” of the scope. Think about it,….what part of the scope comes in contact with the outside atmosphere/temps first?!? The outer tube of the scope!!! Would it get colder/hotter from the inside??? Doesn’t make sense to me if it did Anyways, that’s my take on my scope problem thus far. Just my opinion OK?? If I’m way off on this, please let me know!!! Can’t wait to hear your thoughts on my blog. Thanks, Thomas

  35. Thomas,

    That F in the pentagram tells you the rifle isn’t capable of much more than 600 f.p.s. That’s the German Freimark, a legal mark signifying an airgun cannot produce more than 7.5 joules of energy at the muzzle.

    As for your idea about the scope rings, let us know how that turns out. Most rings are aluminum, not steel, but aluminum is also sensitive to temperature.


  36. BB, Thanks for the interest in my scope idea. And yes I should have said “metal” and not steel!! LOL’s But you got the idea. I had seen that Freimark before in some of your blogs/articles, but couldn’t remember where it was. These computers are great, but sometimes it’s like walking in a maze!!! Thomas

  37. Here’s a question about the Marksman I bought yesterday. When I was looking up the beemans that you thought it might ressemble, I found two that were close to it. Looking at the specs, some gave barrel lengths as well as over all lenght. Some didn’t. I measured the barrel of mine from the breech hole to the end of the muzzle break and it was 17 7/8″ long (the plastic part did extend passed the actual “barrel” say 1/8 or 3/16″. Is this how you measure barrel length? Thomas

  38. Thomas,

    I measure the rifled length of barrel, only. Muzzle brakes are not included.

    To determine which gun you may have look at the trigger, the safety and the sights. Describe them in detail and I will try to help. Start with the trigger.

    Also, is there and plastic on the gun?


  39. OK BB, Let’s take a look at this rifle. I’ll start with the stock and work my way up. It has a rubber butt-plate. The wood is a dark heavy wood and solid. Not sure what kind of wood it is,…it ain’t yellow pine!!! LOL’s Although it is a ‘Monte Carlo’ type of stock. The upper side runs straight from action to the butt-plate without the slide notch seen in other rifles like the Beeman R1’s and R7’s. The weapon is fit a right hand shooter, but the cheeck rest isn’t so obtrusion that it interferes with a left hand shooter such as my self. The trigger guard is black, and I think it may be cast aluminium alloy or hard plastic. I could take a knife it scratch it a little to see if indeed it’s painted, but I haven’t done that. Another feature, which I really like, is the automatic safety that engages everytime it’s cocked. The safety is more of a small “tabbed” lever that extends downward from the stalk instead of a small trigger like device that pushes forward before firing. You have to push this safety in an upward motion to free the trigger. The forearm area from the trigger area to about halfway down the action is rather thick and heavy looking, but at tapers down very nicely towards the barrel break area. The rear sight is plastic, but the buttom piece attatched to the barrel might be metal. I’ll have to do the knife test on that too. The Barrel itself seems a bit longer than other rifles of this type I’ve seen. The rifleing is a right handed configuration (looking down the breech side). The front sight is a plastic optics (tubular) type, and looking at it, the inserts can be replaced with different configurations (a ‘peep’, a thicker pin, thinner pin, etc). I hope this description can help us figure out the age and model this weapon influenced when or before the Beeman Co. bought marksman out. But that’s just a speculation on my part. Thanks for you help. Thomas

  40. One more think BB, The muzzle break is molded with a louvered type design,as seen on many other brands, and is not of the smooth design like the ones offered from Beeman/PyramydAir utilizing the three allen ‘locking’ screws. Look under accesories and you’ll see what I mean. Thanks again, Thomas

  41. Thomas,

    Don’t scratch anything. Do the lip test. Touch your lip to the part. If it’s colt it’s metal. If it’s warm, it’s plastic.

    Please explain more what you mean about the safety. I don’t understand what you mean by it extending downward from the stalk. What stalk are you referring to? Where, exactly is the safety located?

    And is there a bright aluminum screw hanging down behind the trigger blade?

    The front sight having replaceable inserts is interesting.

    This doesn’t sound like a German gun at this point, but I’ll reserve judgement.


  42. Sorry BB, I meant from the under side of the ‘stock’ inside the trigger guard. I’m at work right now so a can’t say anything about the screws. The is a smaller one holding the front of the trigger guard to the stock, and a larger screw holding the rear side of the trigger guard. I don’t believe this gun has an adjustable trigger screw, but I’ll check it out and get back to you on that. The saftey doesn’t hang down in a trigger fashion like that of my Sierra that must be pushed forward to unlock the trigger and fire. This safety which comes down from the action area is a small blade like mechanisism extending downward at an angle towards the trigger, with a small bent tab. When this tab is engaged to free the trigger, it comes almost flush with the under side of the stock/action. After firing, you wouldn’t think it had a safety unless you looked for it. And not noticable until the rifle is cocked and it “jutes” downward into “ready” mode. Wish I could send you a picture. Thanks BB, Hope this clarifies my earlier description some more. Thomas

  43. Thomas,

    That clarified it for me. Thanks.

    I don’t think the rifle is German. Maybe Spanish or perhaps Chinese.

    Do you have any sense of how old it is?

    Also, the plastic content? How much?

    No rush on this. We can discover this rifle over several days if we need to.


  44. OK BB. When I get home I’ll give it another once over. I did mention before that it said, ‘Made in Spain’……I think I did. From just looking at the stain/finish of the wood, it does have an older patinna than say something only a few years old. I’ll be in touch later in the week, and hope to have found some more details I may have missed from memory. It’s getting about time to head home and spend the rest of the afternoon “plinkin’ and drinkin'”. Happy shooting, and always keep that safety on!!!!!! Thomas

  45. BB and Thomas

    I have the same Gun with all of the same features, measurements and markings, even the front sight with different replaceable sight inserts. My Serial No. is 32074-99.
    Compared to My Gamo Hunters Supreme, it is a wimp. 600 fps versus 1600 fps. Still. It is fun to bounce Pellets off of Squirrels at 30' to 40' range. They jump up, twist and look around and then run and hide. With the Gamo, they just fall over.

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