by B.B. Pelletier
Haenel Model 1 is a pre-WWII breakbarrel of good quality. Despite the size of this photo, the rifle is on the small side.
Several of you were aware of my transaction a few weeks back (Feb 21) when I bought this breakbarrel spring-air rifle that was listed on the Yellow Forum classified ads. I had gone to the ads to confirm the URL before posting it in an answer to one of the comments on this blog and saw this rifle at the top of the listings. It had been up all of 16 minutes when I first saw it. Here’s what I saw.
For Sale Haenel Model 1 .22 (lots of pics)
This gun is very clean and has been converted to a JM red Apex main seal, honed cylinder, and synthetic O-ring breach seal. I don’t have a chrony, so don’t ask. The beach stock has been refinished with aniline dye and JM Royal London oil. I’m asking $120 shipped to the lower 48, and the gun will be shipped with the action separated from the stock, in form-fitted rigid foam, then double-boxed. I’m on the BOI. Please check me out. If you don’t like it, I’ll buy it back. First committed E-mail gets it.
The 20 photos (he did say there were a lot of them) showed a vintage spring-piston breakbarrel air rifle with a barrel lock lever. I owned a Haenel Model III breakbarrel years ago, so I knew these guns are made with pre-World War II craftsmanship. Nothing like them is made today.
Things that impressed me about this ad and gun were the number of photos the seller was showing. He was obviously proud of the work he had done on this rifle. I was also impressed by his price of only $120 for the rifle, including shipping! I would expect to pay that price or more if I found this gun on a table at an airgun show.
The tuneup work done to the gun was similarly impressive–not because I knew the seller’s work, which at the time I did not–but because he was able to tell me so much detail. He clearly knew this air rifle well and was aware of all its faults and features. And he was willing to buy it back if I didn’t like it. The BOI he refers to is the Board of Inquiry, a feature of the Network 54 classified ads, where the buyers can tell of their experiences while dealing with this person.
It took me less than one minute to make up my mind to buy the gun, so I posted a “Sold” message on the forum. Within an hour, the first blog reader responded by mentioning that he had also seen the ad and wondered whether it was worth the asking price. Guys, this is where experience pays a dividend. This rifle was so clearly worth the asking price that I made a nearly impulsive buy, and that’s uncharacteristic for me. Could it all have been a scam? Could I have lost everything? Of course! In fact, only a short time later one of our readers, the Big Bore Addict, had a misfortunate transaction while selling something on the same forum.
Let me draw a comparison for you that will help you better understand the value of this rifle–I consider this rifle to be equivalent in build quality to the Diana model 27. Oh, it’s smaller and less powerful than a 27 and I’m not saying it should be priced the same; but in terms of how well-made it is, it’s just as good. So when someone offers one at a reasonable price with all the work this seller was offering, I considered it a no-brainer. Get it, test it and if for some reason you don’t like it, sell it for what you paid for it. How can you go wrong with a deal like that?
Diana 27 on top shows just how small the Haenel Model 1 is. It’s more the size of a diminutive Diana Model 23, which is the top of their youth line from that era.
The seller got back with me quickly, and we clinched the deal. He sent the gun the next business day, and I sent the money his way. I explained to him that I wanted the gun to test it for you, and it turned out he has read this blog. He knew who I was and what I wanted to do, so he sent me more information about the gun. Here’s what he wrote me:
I bought the gun as a basket case off one of the auction sites. It was plum-colored patina, and someone had carved some initials into the stock. I think I paid around $40 including shipping.
I enjoy the challenge of restoring what was at one time, a fine piece of engineering. When I got the gun, I did my usual tear-down and assessment. In this one, the leather seal was (as usual) embedded with nails, and beyond repair.
As I was cleaning and degreasing the main tube, I noticed that most of the patina was coming off with just Simple Green and a scotchbrite. So I kept at it for a while, and got down to pretty decent metal with no pits and some of the original bluing left.
With a $40 gun, you’re allowed to take some chances, so I wiped it down with Birchwood Casey Superblue, and it sprang right back. This one is by far the best home metal refinish I’ve ever done, and it was purely luck. After the re-blue, I used Minwax paste wax instead of oil, and it made it look almost new.
I stripped and sanded the stock, and refinished it with a water-based aniline dye and Maccari’s Royal London oil. It turned out quite pretty.
Since the main seal was irreparable, I decided to fit a synthetic. I had a JM Apex that was close in size, so I spun it down to fit, made an adapter out of a conical plumbing washer, and slapped it in. This all happened late last summer.
I was unable to go to Roanoke [last] year, so I sent the gun with a friend, and told him to sell it for whatever he could get. Well, nobody bit, so it came back home with my friend. I just got it back from him today.
It was still shooting very low and slow in my basement, which is only 7 yds. But after he left, I opened it up again, and determined that the main seal was a good fit. So I looked at what else might be a problem. I had read that leather seal guns rely on a mirror polish in the compression tube, and sometimes suffer when converted to synthetic. So I used a brake cylinder hone and scratched it up a bit. That may or may not have helped. But what did really did help was replacing the leather breach seal with an O-ring.
The rifle now shoots well and seals well. No more low and slow. Unfortunately, I don’t have a chrony, so I can’t offer any good data. But it now punches clean holes in a beer can, where before it was making big rips, so it’s definitely shooting much faster. It’s still no powerhouse, but it never was, even when new.
It’s a fun little gun, and I think you’ll enjoy it. I look forward to reading about it.
Interesting about the breech seal, eh? Just the thing we’ve been learning about recently, thanks to Vince and all his rebuilding knowledge.
I’m surprised about the lack of interest at Roanoke. All I can say is that I didn’t see this gun there. If I had, I think I would have bought it. And I know a couple others like my buddy Mac or Randy in VA who would also have been interested. No matter, though, because the gun is now mine.
However there is one last thing to tell you before I dive into the test. The seller of this rifle, who I will now call Jim, is a very careful worker. By that I mean a perfectionist. And not the kind who has to tell you all the time that he’s a perfectionist–no sir! I’m talking about the real deal.
Pack your bags!
Jim told me the gun would be very well-packed when he shipped it to me. That’s like saying the Mona Lisa is a famous painting! There are satellites going to Mars that aren’t packed as well as this rifle was when Jim sent it to me. In fact, the packing is worthy of its own blog report, but not by me. So, Jim, if you are willing, I’d like you to tell everyone how you pack an air rifle for shipment. I feel like a hobo who ships airguns in wet blankets after seeing your work.
However, I won’t keep you all waiting for Jim’s writeup. Let me describe what I saw when I opened the box.
In this instance, a picture is not worth a thousand words, because it doesn’t convey all the extra care that went into the packaging of the rifle. This is the dense foam block that held the two parts of the airgun during shipment. Missing from this picture are the many small pieces of foam that were wedged against the parts to hold them still. Also not shown are the nylon bags used to protect the finish.
The action and stock were separated and each was nestled (cocooned is a better term) in a fitted slot of dense rigid foam. Both the stock and the metal action were sleeved inside a heavy nylon stocking to protect the finish from any rubbing on the foam–though the fit of their compartments was so tight that any movement was impossible under normal circumstances.
The three screws that attached the stock to the action were sunk into the foam. Everything was labeled, so I knew what to do first and which side was supposed to be up. And every part was covered by wide clear tape, so any movement was arrested by the tape. There were foam inserts to prevent the slightest movement of any of the parts, and both sides of the foam were backed by cardboard for cushioning. There were cut lines around all the parts to separate them easily at their destination.
In short, the box was prepared for a short ride with a crash-test dummy. If they gave awards for packing airguns, this one would have won an Oscar! And it was the perfect set of credentials for a gun that had been worked on by the same fastidious airgunner. I knew after unpacking the box that I had just won a lottery for internet vintage airgun buyers.
And that’s my story for today. It’s possible for all you boys and girls in Keokuk, Iowa, and Gillette, Wyoming, to participate in the vintage airgun game at the same level as anyone else. All you need is an internet connection and some basic knowledge about what you want. Great buys don’t come up every day, but as someone wiser than me once said, you’ll probably see a once-in-a-lifetime buy about every year to 18 months.
55 thoughts on “Haenel Model 1 – Part 1 A compulsive airgun buy!”
I did an old Haenel Mod 1 for Wayne a couple months back, and you’re right – is is a well made gun. Wayne’s was a bit of a basket case with a really loose lockup, really bad spring, and a busted trigger pivot screw.
I replaced the spring with a Chinese B3 spring with several coils cut off, and the lockup paw wasn’t too hard to fix once I figured out exactly what the problem was. The trigger screw really threw me – near as I could tell it was a 10-30 machine screw, which (of course) doesn’t exist.
No matter. I got is all working again and, as I recall, the gun did shoot rather well. mid-upper 400’s with 14.3gr Gamo Match if I remember right.
I’m not surprised that your gun was fairly inexpensive. Wouldn’t that be expected considering all the refinishing and seal modification?
If you mean that my gun is not a collectible, I guess you’re right. But the work Jim put into it made it a wonderful little shooter. With the prices used airguns are fetching today I think I got a bargain.
As a shooter and a nice youth-sized airgun. Not as a collectible.
I think Haenel made the MP38 and MP40 submachineguns which were designed by a guy named Vollmer & have little to do with Hugo Schmeisser.
I was very tempted to buy this gun when it first posted. If it was .177 caliber I would have.
With all due respect to B.B.’s pictures today, they don’t do this gun justice. “Jim” may have gotten lucky with his metal work and turned out his best blueing job to date but this guy is a wood refinisher extraodinaire. I know he had $120.00 in labor just in the stock refinishing. Looks brand new, correct in color and hand rubbed finish for the era.
A collectible for those fanatics that want original stock finish and original blueing so it can hang on a wall and be admired? Definately not. But a beautiful shooter without any plastic (except the NEW maccari internals) that is easy to cock, accurate, fun to shoot all day and perfect as a kids first gun it doesn’t get any better in my mind. A great buy.
There’s a hyscore 807 .22 cal on the Network 54 (same site that B.B. found this gun) that was posted last night, is in apparently wonderful condition for $200.00 and still hasn’t sold. Will someone please buy this so I’m no longer tempted.
RE: Helium in a PCP
Opened a thread in the yellow and helium and PCP see:
Got one interesting lead:
briks20 / sept 8, 2007 1:22pm
“It was my rifle I have sold to him rated to 310 mps with baracuda 31 grain (about 70 ftlbs). When filled with helium at the same tuning he has got 780 (!) mps at 200 bars (about 450 ftlbs). He did not do any regular experiments with sweet spot, heavier pellets etc. but potential of helium is obvious even in this figure. Unfortunately it is difficult for us getting other pellets and that is why he has stopped at that.”
780/310 = 2.52
Without more direct evidence I’m hesitant to say the notion has been proven, but it is very very interesting.
Even have a fellow who is selling a hose from which you can fill from a helium tank. Sold one to a “David” that I am trying to track down.
I am SO tempted to buy that 807, except that I already have a .22-caliber 807. $200 is a great price for this gun.
The only thing that makes me wary is the trigger modification. Had he left it as is I think it would have sold by now.
BB, I just noticed – the front sight on that one is hooded. I don’t think the one on Wayne’s gun was, and I also remember that it shot very high at 10 yards. Joe Groenwald (sp?) told me the barrel was probably bent, but that wasn’t the case.
I replaced the front sight with one for a Chinese B1 (after recutting the dovetail to fit) and, oddly enough, it looks very much like the sight on yours.
Also, Wayne’s was a “Model 1 D R P”. Is yours a “D R P” as well, and what the heck does “D R P” mean?
A great looking gun, but the real question is, how does she shoot? State tune folks…:).
PS If we could cock and fire a springer in an atmosphere of helium, would it shoot faster?:):)
Finally what I have waited for since you snagged that baby out from under my nose!! Can hardly wait for “the rest of the story” kinda like listening to Paul Harvey.
If the seller was who I think it was, he seems to have a real talent for picking out diamonds in the rough, tuning them up and then publishing the results in detail. And he’s never had a chrony to my knowledge:). One of my few favorites on the Yellow and Chinese.
I hear you when you say those odd ball screws dont exist. I have a preWWII model diana pistol. Stupidly of me I drilled the hole bigger and put a nut and bolt through it. LOOKS HORID.
Kevin, I am with you I wish someone would buy the 807 so I can forget about it, but my fear was the trigger as was BB’s.
That gun had been sitting at my house since Roanoke tempting me to send Jim a check.
I literally had return it or it would be here instead of on this blog. I was happy to see BB bought the gun becasue I knew he would blog it. Jim did a fantastic job on the wood, metal and internals.
Jim has quite a knack for breathing life into vintage rifles that have been left for dead. Certainly not exactly “period correct” but pretty darn close.
I think any person who appreciates vintage airguns would gladly have this one in their collection.
I have bought guns for various reasons, though the one common reason is to shoot them. This is one that can be admired and shot, the best kind of airgun.
The gun shoots very nicely, I won’t say more since BB will surely cover it in the next istallment.
We’re gettin’ ahead of the story, but D.R.P. stands for Deutsches Reich Patent (German Empire Patent). That marking will only be found on things manufactured before WW II.
This gun of mine is pretty much original, and has some features I am anxious to show everyone. The front sight is one of them, because it has another feature I find interesting.
I won’t drag this out too long–I promise.
Erma made the MP38&40. Haenel made the stg44 which was designed by Schmeisser.
The whole story is coming.
While you wait, there is that Diana 27 still on the Yellow.
He probably is the same guy that you know, because his workmanship is beautiful.
I feel proud to own a gun he worked on.
B.B., lubricator and anyone else,
Re: The trigger story about the hyscore 807 still for sale on 54
I was also concerned about the trigger on the 807. As it turns out, “ted” on the ad, (real name ken) sent the gun to John Groenewold for a complete tune including replacing the plastic/broken trigger with the aftermarket (period correct) metal trigger. The original 3 ball bearing sear is still in the gun. It is only the trigger and a worn spring that john Groenewold replaced (along with tuning the gun including a new piston seal, titan xl spring, etc). Stock was refinished with a dark walnut stain then min wax was applied. Has original, metal hooded front sight and metal adjustable (for elevation and windage) rear sight unlike B.B.’s haenel model 1 rear sight that appears to only be adjustable for elevation.
I think you guys, like me, are looking for excuses not to add another airgun to the arsenal. I’m running out of excuses so…as I said, will someone please buy this so the temptation is gone.
RE: “If we could cock and fire a springer in an atmosphere of helium, would it shoot faster?”
Yes – That is essentailly NASA’s Two Stage Light Gas Gun. Instead of a spring to drive the piston, gun powder is used.
The rub here is that “the speed of sound in the working fluid” means the speed of sound in the compressed gas just before the seal breaks. Since the gas is compressed violently it is also heated.
Why did RWS cancel shipment to pyranyd air of the RWS 5G Mag Pistol?
RE: Discovery & CO2
Could/Would some one with a Discovery do a blog on Discovery on CO2?
(1) Velocity for various pellets
(2) Be really curious if same pellet is best at CO2 pressures and air pressures.
As had been noted the "sweet" combination for a pellet and rifle seems to be a function of the pellet speed as well. So best pellet at one speed might not be the best pellet at all speeds.
This pistol has been discontinued. There may be a few on dealer’s shelves for a while, but the new gun is the LP8.
BB or others,
I still haven’t opened a spring gun up yet so this may be a stupid question, but how do you get nails in the leather seal? I can see some kid putting nails in the barrel, but they would have to go through the transfer port to get to the seal. Is that possible?
They are always brads and finishing nails. People drop them through the air transfer port.
Yu find crushed bits of lead, too (pellets pushed through the port).
Here’s further proof that you can get more than what you pay for.
Interesting about the packing. I was alerted to the importance of this when the stock of my B30 cracked when I sent it to PA. When they returned it, they had placed folded pieces of styrofoam around the muzzle and stock which is standard for me now whenever I transport my rifles.
Almost EVERY vintage springer I’ve been inside has had one or more bent and broken finish nails embedded in the main seal. My guess is that they were a substitute ammo when some kid ran out of pellets, and they drifted backwards through the transfer port. Someone on the vintage forum posted an alternate theory: If a leather sealed gun begins to shoot weakly, dropping a finish nail into the transfer port and firing the gun will force the nail into the seal, and make it expand against the tube, tightening it up some. This COULD have been a folk secret tuning tip in Europe years ago. The fact that it’s so prevalent lends some credence to this theory, but I still lean towards the substitute ammo theory.
BTW, that was my Haenel. It’s nice to see the interest in vintage springers. So many folks sing the praises of the R7, and rightfully so. But so few people seem to know that there’s a whole WORLD of sweet-shooting vintage rifles in that power range.
Actually, all this attention may be a bad thing for me, as it may drive up the prices on rusty old break-barrels LOL!
Thank you sir. I’ll check out the website. Did I hear someone say that NASA used hydrogen as the gas in their gun…interesting H2 and gunpowder–a Darwin Award in the making?
Shippng air rifles. I’ve had excellent results using the FREE triangular boxes from FEDX. Check them out guys. I’ve been sending rifles to Rick in PA without any damages.
I’m glad you saw this report. You are the star. The gun is just a tool you created, or in this case, restored.
I plan on a very detailed look at this rifle, in an attempt to show the newer airgunners just how wonderful these older guns can be. Your R7 comment is so appropriate to this story.
Thank you for this opportunity to look at a fine old classic!
Lubricator, seems to me you might be able to tap the oversize hole, thead a steel threaded insert into it and wind up with the same size threaded hole that you started with. If you then cold-blue the end of the insert the repair shouldn’t be that obvious.
Nothing useful to say today, (kinda like any other day). Just getting on the mailing list.
Hmm, the email option box wasn’t there on my first comment.
Your description of the seller was enough that I had a pretty good idea whom you bought the Haenel from. But the packing box sealed the deal. I only know one person who packages that carefully. I bought a Belgium Hyscore 801 from the same person. It came in the same packaging and had received the same loving restoration.
My dad forgot to tell you guys something yesterday. We went to our grandma's house on Saturday to shoot our air guns. My dad noted that my grandmas gun cabinet was dusty. So he opened it up and inside were some old boxes that had held some shotgun shells, and in one was my dad's old Diana 25 rear sight!!! It was not in the best shape, but it worked, so we put it on, and now we have a Diana 25 that can shoot straight!!! Also in that gun cabinet was a very peculiar gun, so we took it out, and it was a single shot Webbly & Scott 410. shot gun!! The barrel was at 18", the legal limit. I'm telling you, this gun was not 36" long! My grandma had brought it back from England. Webbly & Scott gave it the name "garden gun".
Do you guys have any info?
My grandma sent me home with a Sheridan blue streak in 20. cal. that needs A LOT of work. It's a bear to cock, pumping it to 10 takes about 50 seconds, on a good day, that is.
It looks like it's not going over
500 fps, because I can almost see
the pellet in flight. Can you guys give me some advice?
I will never fear doing business with this person! Like I said, he makes me feel like a hobo when I pack airguns.
And his woodwork is superb!
8 pumps for a Sheridan, not 10.
Oil the pump piston with Crosman Pellgunoil. Read this report:
Store the gun at all times uncocked and with one pump of air in it.
And get a chronograph when you can. There is no way to tell velocities without one.
you’ve mentioned before how the Slavia has those weird-ass skinny rails that make it impossible to mount a scope without an adapter of some sort.
I’m wondering if the same is true for diopter sights?
I’m upgrading the rear diopter of my Avanti 853 to the new Air Force and have already tried to put the stock Avanti rear sight onto the Slavia…no go.
I really like an aperture sight and am wondering if you would know if any of the Williams or Beeman sights would fit on the Slavia.
One really simple approach would be to use lead wedges between thew sight and the rails. As little as the Slavia recoils I bet they would hold.
Herb & others
A few other thoughts on this "speed of a projectile" topic. I thought it was clear from what I had read that the SPEED OF SOUND in the working fluid is the LIMITING FACTOR. Meaning that the speed of the projectile is limited "BY" (not limited to) the speed of sound in the working fluid. That is how a PCP gun using HP air is able to fire a projectile that exceeds the speed of sound.
Furthermore I would expect that a PCP gun using helium would fire the same projectile at a substantially faster speed (perhaps even 2.5 times as fast) and that the same gun using hydrogen would fire 3 times faster or more (again, limited by, not to the speed of sound in the working fluid and understanding that the speed of sound in hydrogen is approx. 3X that of in air.}
Moving all of this to a spring piston TYPE gun like the light gas gun. We can clearly see that by using a lighter gas we have doubled or tripled our speed (depending on the gas) and the extreme heat generated by the rapid compression of the gas multiplies this further to a "speed of 7000 meters per second."
I therefor conclude, (since I can't change the physics or the facts) That both the use of a "light gas" and the addition of extreme heat have had a HUGE (orders of magnitude) effect on my projectile speed. I don't think either of these factors had a "negligible" effect.
Speed of sound in various gases
Hydrogen (0°C) 1286
Helium (0°C) 972
Air (0°C) 331
hydrogen/air = 1286/331 = 3.89
helium/air = 972/331 = 2.94
Speed of sound in air does not depend on pressure, just temperature (basically our ideal gas assumptions again, but pretty close to true…)
All in all I think most of what you stated is pretty close to the truth. I do think that there is some ultimate limit on how fast gas molecules will flow down the barrel. Exactly what the ratio is compared to the speed of sound is the question. Experimental evidence would indicate that the ratio for a PCP is at least 1.5. I’ll take a SWAG and say 3 is the upper limit for a real PCP airgun.
Dynamic gas flow modeling is out of my experience. I’m confused as to how to deal with the mass flow, the speed of sound, the inevitable sonic vibrations and choke points.
I would expect that helium in a PCP would shoot detectably faster than air at the same pressure. Not sure if the increase in velocity would be because helium flows better around choke points in gun, or if helium flows better down barrel, or both.
Springer does generate heat when it compresses the gas. Higher temperature will make gas flow faster.
As far as the “SPEED OF SOUND in the working fluid is the LIMITING FACTOR” – no. Since PCPs already exceed the sound barrier this is not true. The limit is calculated based on a model. If the model is wrong so is the limit. The model could be tweaked to give a slightly higher value. The speed of sound in the working fluid is just a convenient yardstick.
The model can be wrong but still give good and useful results. Look at all the “ideal gas” calculations in science. There is NO ideal gas.
So, all in all, we’re having a “violent” agreement.
I am now a proud owner of an Alpha Master Chrony. It just told me my co2 makes a fps variation of 605 to 712 fps. What seems to be wrong? These are the pellets that gives me a consistent less than 2 inch groups at 40 yards.
What is next after the chrony tells me my velocity string is bad? What is good velocity string in co2 rifles?
In Tom Gaylord’s Chrony article at pyramydair, I noticed that the shorter rods with the brass adapters are inserted into the outer holes of the chony. The manual says it should be the longer 9.25inch rods.
What is the purpose of the inner holes at the black plastic boxes? Only the outer holes are mentioned in the manual.
I know I am off topic, but I really want to buy a Theoben Dual Magnum as soon as I can get to one. Can you give me any ideas where one can find such a gun and buy it?
Thank you in advance,
With a 100 f.p.s. velocity variation I would expect about a 2-inch group at 40 yards.
The problem may be that you aren’t waiuting long enough between shots for the guns to warm up.
CO2 will chill the gun and that affects velocity. Try waiting a full minute between shots and see what effect that has on velocity.
As for Tom Gaylord’s Chrony film, perhaps Tom didn’t read the manual like you did. But when he (I) used the Chrony that way it did work.
Assuming you live in the USA, the place to buy any Theoben is at Theoben USA.
Saw that Haenel listed but I had recently bought one, myself. Great little gun in .22 to go along with another .22, the Haenel III. My Haenel I needs to have the sear fixed as it shoots by itself. I will say, even in the condition it is in, it is a smooth and surprisingly powerful shooter for such a light gun.
When was your’s made? Look under the barrel and you will see the month in year in tiny script. My Model I was made in Feb 1928, while the Haenel III will be 80 in April. Love those barrel releases, as well.
BTW, I think DRP was only used during the Third Reich era.
My model 1 is much newer than yours. It was made in April of 1928.
When I was a kid in the 1960s, everyone said that DRP stood for Drittes Reich Patente (Third Reich Patent). I now know the D stands for Deutsche (German).
The Third Reich ran from 1933 to 1945, which puts our rifles outside on the early side.
Thank you for the date information. I might have found it someday, but it’s nice to know now. I guess that makes this rifle my oldest airgun!
What is the real size of .25 cal pellets. Is it .250 or any different.
If you decide to part with that Model 1; contact me. As you may well recall, I have a great passion for all things Haenel. I will pay you a very fair price for it.
Thank you for your offer. I am going to hold onto it for a while and even write a part 3 accuracy report.
That offer is still good if you are tired of that Model 1 yet. 😉
Persistence has its reward.
Contact me from my website:
Are you sure it's curved? oftentimes they might look curved when, in fact, the bend really occurs over a relatively short length near the breech.
In any event – it can just be bent back. Take the action out of the stock, remove any front sight, and remove the barrel from the action.
Place the block in a strong vise (padding it securely), and slip a long pipe or tube over the end of the barrel (again padding it) and bend it back little by little. Use a straightedge to check as you go.
I was just asked to sell a Haenel model 1 D.R.P.(My close friend's widow). Condition is Good/excellent.
I would appreciate any suggestions you may have.
Only ask the question one time, please. I answered it in the other place you asked.
I was lucky enough to find one of these at the local where I work all in firing order and perfectly capable of knocking of the rat population there, only problem is it has no rear sight or at least very little of it left it has the slightly later sight and would like to know what's the best way to go about replacing it?
Contact this man:
He often has parts for obsolete airguns.
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