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Education / Training Lubricating your spring gun: Part 1 – chambers & mainsprings

Lubricating your spring gun: Part 1 – chambers & mainsprings

by B.B. Pelletier

I thought I would do something general that everyone needs, and this topic jumped out at me. Everyone wants to know how and where to lubricate a spring airgun. Before I begin, let me mention that this is a huge subject, so I had to break it into parts. Today, I’ll do chambers and mainsprings.

We’ll start with the chamber because a lot of shooters think it’s the only place they need to lube. Of course, it isn’t, but the chamber is perhaps the most controversial spot on an airgun.

There are a couple reasons we lube the chamber. For one thing, it lubricates the sides of the piston seal and reduces drag and friction. Friction can melt a synthetic piston very quickly. Leather piston seals are kept supple and therefore better able to compress air if they are kept lubricated.

G.V and G.M. Cardew proved that spring-piston guns burn their lubricant to produce power. That’s spelled out in detail in their book, The Airgun From Trigger to Target. Anyone who has seen smoke roll out from a freshly lubed BB gun knows this is true. Of course, you want to avoid the more powerful explosion we call a detonation. Actually, a detonation is only different in how much fuel is burned in each explosion. When a spring-piston gun fires, a little of the lubricant flashes into oxidized gas, which can be called by many names such as an explosion, a diesel or a burn.

Here are the guidelines for lubing the chamber
Everything I say for rifles also applies to pistols but in smaller doses.

For guns with synthetic piston seals use a silicone lube with a high flashpoint. A good one is Crosman Silicone Chamber Oil. Use VERY LITTLE – perhaps one drop every 1,000 to 3,000 shots. Use the least with modern Diana/RWS guns such as the models 48, 52 and the 350 magnum.

For guns with leather piston seals, use silicone chamber lube in greater quantities, because it’s constantly being wicked away and drying out. Perhaps, five drops every 500 shots is about right. Taploading guns with leather seals (older BSA and Hakim rifles) need even more lube than that. If you find an older airgun that has little or no compression, stand it on its butt and put 20 drops of silicone oil down the barrel. Wait several days, but periodically exercise the action by cocking and uncocking without firing, if the design permits. This often restores an older gun with leather seals.

For old BB guns, use petroleum oil and SOAK the leather seal over a period of days. If the gun has a shot tube, remove it and drop the oil down the large hole in the muzzle. It will seep through the compression chamber and into the leather seal. If the gun has an “Oil Here” hole, oil it 5-6 times with as much oil as you can get through the hole. Cock and uncock the action repeatedly to spread the oil. Be careful! Oil will run out of the gun and onto whatever it’s standing on!

For Crosman M1 Carbines and model 350 and 3500 BB guns ONLY, drop the oil down the rear (the smaller) of the two holes on top of the receiver. You only need three or four drops because these guns have a synthetic poppet-type valve rather than a leather piston seal.

For more modern BB guns made from about 1955 and on, the amount of oil should be small because they all have synthetic seals. Almost all of these guns have marked oil holes.

Oil the mainspring only if the gun makes noise when it’s cocked.
The more expensive spring guns are lubed very well at the factory and probably don’t need attention for many years. View every used gun with suspicion until you know its condition.

Spring lube is usually an oil, which is the easiest to apply. There are certain spring greases that have been available from time to time. The oils can be applied without disassembling the gun, but most of the greases require disassembly. A good oil to use is Gamo Air Gun Oil. Ten drops of oil is followed by cocking and uncocking (if possible) the gun in many positions to spread the oil as far as possible. Shooting will do the rest.

If you’re going to make a mistake in the lubrication of a spring gun, it’s best to err on the side of too little lube rather than too much. Guns can be ruined through over-lubrication, but almost everyone will recognize the signs of a dry gun that needs a little lubricant.

This posting will probably raise more questions than it answers. That’s okay, because those questions are going unanswered right now. Ask away!

97 thoughts on “Lubricating your spring gun: Part 1 – chambers & mainsprings”

  1. The rotary breech makes it difficult to put the lube directly into the compression chamber, so here is what you do.

    Stand the rifle on its butt with the breech closed. Drop the oil into the muzzle and allow at least an hour for it to run down the barrel and into the compression chamber. I always throw in one extra drop for the barrel, because I know some of the oil will stay there.


  2. I have a Beeman R7 purchased new this year. I have launched perhaps 1800 projectiles. Synthetic chamber seal on this rifle? How to apply the correct chamber lubricant?

  3. Yes, your R7 piston seal is synthetic. If it doesn’t squeak, it doesn’t need any lube, however, a drop or two won’t hurt this gun.

    Break the barrel open and drop the oil into the transfer port, located in the spring cylinder directly behind the barrel when it is closed.

    After oiling, cock and uncock the rifle several times in different positions to move the oil around the seal edges.


  4. I have a vintage Hy Score 800 air pistol, which features a concentric design. I realy enjoy shooting it, but that is for another conversation. It does not have leather or synthetic seals but steel rings, much like the rings found on an auto piston. I have read that these air pistols were designed to be “oil burners”.

    What type of oil would you recommend for my Hy Score pistol?



  5. I don’t know how much of an “overdose” we’re talking about, but waiting for several weeks with the gun pointed down to drain the oil is the only way, other than shooting it out. Unless you want to disassemble the gun.

    What are we talking about?


  6. b.b. sir
    i was wondering about the year and some history that you might know on ampex ampell single shot co2 pellet pistol.
    it is in very good condition,it leaks a little at the peircing point where the powerlet goes.
    any info will be great.
    thank you,

    • Hey b.b. I’m new to this site… I was wondering around what year and what exact info you know about my air gun I just received it says on it RWS, Diana, and Model 48/52. What model does that mean it is? I can send you the serial numbers on the gun if that will help locate the year. Also where exactly do I oil the chamber, and o ring for the piston?

      • lnovak7493,

        Welcome to the blog.

        You don’t have to oil your rifle. It’s seal takes care of that.There are no o-rings on that model.

        If the stock is checkered it’s a 52. If it isn’t checkered it’s a 48.

        The date of manufacture should be at the left rear of the spring tube, down by the stock line.


        • Hi B.B
          Those guns Vintage Diana are so many , there is no clearly information about what manufacture year are they
          I have some spray says on the label Motomaster
          Silicone lube ( can i use it for all parts and seals)
          Today I’ve ordered Diana mod 25 .177
          It will arrive by a few days.
          Im wondering if this rifle comes with leather seal or synthetic
          also how can I know if needs to be lubricate it.

          How about if I do one shoot thru my Chrono and see FPS
          if it is like 300-400 FPS maybe It needs oil.

          I do not want to take a parts for now , looking for a way to inspecting without taking a part

          Also I do not know the manufacture year, is there a stamp with the year on the barrel.

          In good condition , what’s fps should be on this rifle lets say pellet 7.4 grain.

          I have one picture of this gun for now , if you can guess the year would be nice

          Thanks in advance 🙂

  7. Beeman sold a lot of silicone oil by recommending that shooters squirt some in after every tin of pellets. But that technique was developed by Ladd Fanta for leather-washer sealed guns, whose piston seals need regular replenishment.

    A modern gun with a synthetic piston seal and a minute amount of silicon grease and moly is good for many tens of thousands of shots without additional lube. Silicone oil squirted into the chamber is just shot out within a few dozen shots.

  8. Hai B.B.,

    I have an old Air gun BSA Airsporter, my question is… Where do you put the lubricant for the Chamber and for the Main Spring of these rifle? How many drops i can use for each? when or on what condition i can use the oil for these rifle? What kind of oil i can use for the Chamber and for Main Spring for these rifle? any special warning for my rifle about the oil issue?

    For to many question from me so… Thanks B 4

    R. Farry

  9. R. Farry,

    Chamber oil goes down the air transfer port behind the barrel. Spring oil goes on the mainspring. You should be able to see it, but if not, remove the stock.

    Why are you lubing your rifle? Does it act like it needs lube or are you just doing it because you think you should?

    A rifle needs very little lube, and it’s best to keep shooting until they show signs of needing attention.


  10. BB,

    I recently bought an RWS 48. The manual indicates a requirement to put one drop of RWS Chamber Lube into the Compression Chamber Port with a 3-12″ applicator needle. Please indicate the location of the Compression Chamber Port (is it the same as the air transfer port), and the method of using the needle to apply the oil.

  11. Yes, the air transfer port is what they call the Compression Chamber Port.

    Stick needle into port. Squeeze bottle until 1 drop of oil comes out needle and drops into port.

    You don’t need the needle. Just drop the oil as far into the compression chamber as possible (the cupped seal that closes on the breech) and stand the rifle in the corner on its butt for an hour to let the oil run into the chamber.

    Do this only after one year or 3,000 shots have been fired.


  12. I have had an RWS 48 since 1996 but was only used rigorously the first year. It was stored up until about 3 years ago. I have never oiled the mainspring. Looking at the manual, I have no idea how to get to it. Do I need to remove the stock? Thanks.

  13. RWS 48,

    Why do you think your mainspring needs oil? Does it make crunching sounds when you cock the rifle?

    To oil the mainspring the stock must come off the gun. There is a hole under the spring tube through which a small section of the mainspring can be seen. This is the only way to oil the spring of this gun without disassembly.


  14. I have recently purchased a Diana/RWS 46 (My first air rifle) and I also am wondering if you have to remove the stock to oil the mainspring, as suggested for the model 48? Also I have a RWS 4x mounted and every time I get it zeroed in and put it away, the next time I pick it up it needs to be re-sighted in. I am using the Meistergugelns. Everything is tight, so is this scope an example of Chineese junk, or what?

  15. RWS 46,

    There are too many questions for me to answer. You probably do have a scope problem, but not a broken scope. Your problem is in the mounting. Please read my articles about scope mounting in the articles section of this website.

    I’m on an extended trip and cannot answer you better until Feb. 14. Can you please contact me then?

    Try Crosman Premier pellets…7.9 grains. They should shoot better than the Meisters.


  16. I have a 40 yr old Sheridan 5mm pellet rifle. Which air chamber oil should I use? Have no idea of seal being leather or synthetic. Which products should I use or avoid in regular maintenance? Thanks in advance for any help. Phil

  17. Phil,

    Never clean the barrel.

    Always store the rifle with a pump of air.

    Oil the pump piston head with Crosman Pellegunoil.

    To get to the pump piston head, lay the rifle on its back and open the pump handle all the way. The piston head is just visible at the end of the pump slot. Drop 3-5 drops of Pellgunoil on the head through the slot and then pump and shoot the rifle several times to spread the oil.

    Putr a drop of Pellgunoil on each of the pump linkage pivot points.

    That’s about it for maintenance.


  18. Phil,

    I said DON’T clan the barrel – EVER. So you don’t need a cleaning kit. The barrel is brass and it doesn’t get dirty.

    Use Pellgunoil. Pyramyd AIR has it in stock and it’s the only thing I can recommend, other than 20-weight non-detergent motor oil.


  19. Is oil or pellet residue ever a problem. I used to have actual Sheridan oil, but it is no longer available. I had a cleaning rod I made from a wood dowel and used to run a patch down it occasionally, is that not good?

  20. Phil,

    Pellet residue really isn’t a problem in these guns. Yes, there will always be some, but it gets blown out the muzzle and doesn’t accumulate.

    The way I told you to oil the gun is more than just a way to keep it sealed. By putting it on the pump head (the pump piston), it gets blown completely through the gun, carrying any dirt it may encounter out with it.

    Now, your wooden dowel is no problem for the rifle. Very few people use a wooden rod. I was concerned that you might use a metal rod, which would harm the rifling at the muzzle. That would destroy the accuracy in time.


  21. Hi there,

    Great post -I have read every word with great interest (being a novice airgunner but being ever so eager to learn!) Quick Question: I have a Wiehrauch 35 that despite being plenty old enough than I am I adore deeply. The problem is that it does feel ‘rough’ when I cock it and possibly recoils a bit more than it should (I think). It did have a new spring about a year ago so its unlikely to need that oiling but I do know the previous owner didn’t treat it particularly well (leaving it cocked while stored and suchlike) Is it just likely to need a spot of chamber oil? I have been told by a friend I should never put oil down it but your post of using a high flash point silicone lube makes more sense, it does afterall have moving parts. What is your take on it? Richard (from across the pond in England)

  22. Richard,

    Do you know if your rifle has a leather seal or a synthetic one? That makes a big difference in the oiling schedule.

    I don’t like that it’s feeling rougher during cocking. That’s not a good thing for a spring gun to do. It often means that the cocking shoe is galling in its track. You need some good grease there.

    HW 35s are not the smoothest of airguns, but they don’t cock rough, as a rule.

    Tell us more.


  23. B.B.,
    I have a Walther PPK/S bb handgun with blowback and was wondering if it’s ok to use standard multi-use silicone spray (like CRC Heavy Duty Silicone) to lubricate it. And if so, where precisely should I lube it (the chamber? the rails? both?). Thanks!


  24. Hell B.B. Pelletier!

    I have a few questions. First off, where are all the areas I can use the gamo airgun oil on the spring of my break barrel? Is the oil alone enough to lubricate the spring and everything it touches? If so, should I remove all the grease from the spring (and everything it touches) before I use the gamo oil?. Finally, will the crosman Silicone Chamber Oil be enough to lubricate the piston of my break barrel for awhile, or should I keep applying moly lubricant often/when neccesary?

  25. Your mainspring doesn't require oil. Those instructions are for guns made 40 years ago. Modern spring guns seldom need lubrication of any kind.

    However, when the piston seal starts to honk like a goose, put one drop of silicone chamber oil down the air transfer port behind the breech. If you want to oil the mainspring, drop oil through the cocking slot. 5-10 drops of spring oil will do. Don't use chamber lube, because it does not have the viscosity needed for lubricating steel parts.

    If you disassemble your rifle completely, you can lube it with moly grease. It will never need lubrication after that, unless you shoot a lot. Perhaps after 20K shots you will need to relube the gun.


  26. I have a crosman optimus and it says to use crosman rmcoil to lubricate inside the chamber, but I can't find the oil anywhere in New Zealand. Is there a good alternative that you could recommend?


  27. Hello! Great article! I have an 1966 Gecado (Diana) Model 23. It was my dad's when he was a kid and for the past 15 years, it's been sitting in a closet. It's not been passed on to me. It's in great shape and still fires really well (thus, the leather seals still seem to be holding strong), but I want to give it a little TLC as I plan on using it with my daughter this summer.

    I purchased the RWS .177 Shooter's Kit and just curious on how I should apply the spring cylinder oil on this model gun (the kit came with an oiling needle)? How much oil should be applied?

    As well, with the chamber lube, since the compression is still good, how many drops of the lube should I put into the air transfer port? Is 5-drops enough (since it hasn't been done in who-knows-how-long)?

    Finally, with the leather seal around the air transfer port, how exactly should I apply the lube to this seal?

    Thank you!

  28. Kristin,

    First, stand the gun on its butt and drop 10 drops of oil down the muzzle. If you go through the air transfer port, located behind the place the pellet is loaded, you can use about 7 drops. Let the gun stand for at least a full day. The oil runs down and soaks into the piston seal this way. Household oil is good for this.

    Next, put about 10 drops of spring oil on the mainspring through the cocking slot. Then shoot the gun with pellets at least 20 times.

    The shooting will distribute the oil and everything should be good for you.


  29. I have a RWS 350 has not been lubricated for over 6 months. So I applied RWS Spring Cylinder Oil. I thik its over lubricated. It now after lubrication makes a very loud squeaky screeching noise when cocking. I think its coming from the main spring. Is this rifle safe to fire? Will it be gone in a few hundred shots? I'm concerned about if this rifle is still safe to fire.


  30. Oops!,

    You used the wrong kind of oil in your gun. Spring Cylinder oil is silicone-based and will not lubricate metal parts. In fact, it causes them to wear against each other with exactly the kind of sound you are describing.

    Silicone oil is only for the piston seal. It seals the edge of the seal and increases compression. But when put on the metal parts, it washes off the petroleum oil and allows the parts to scrape against one another.

    The best thing to do is disassemble the rifle and remove all the oil from the parts, then lube it correctly and never oil it again.

    These modern guns don't need to be oiled for years at a time, and if they have moly grease on their springs, they never have to be lubricated.


  31. BB,

    I have a very old BSA airsporter club and has never been lubricated in +- 30 years.I had the mainspring and plunger replaced.Now makes much more noise than before.Should I lubricate the chamber or spring?

  32. You used the term "plunger" instead of piston. That suggests you live in the UK. If that is correct, was the new plunger seal replacement leather? if so, then, yes, it does need frequent lubrication. If not, I would ask whoever did the work what they would recommend. That goes for the mainspring, as well.


  33. Sorry one more thing, you recommend to lube the compression chamber every 3000 shots or one year, RWS manual recommends to drop a couple o drops of chamber oil every 1000 shots, in my Magnum 350 why such difference?

    • Christopher,

      Yes, the action has to come out of the stock to lubricate the mainspring. But go slow on doing that. Your gun may not need it. Over-lubrication is worse than too little lubrication.

      That goes for the chamber lube, as well. RWS, who exports the Diana guns from Germany, is recommending an interval that many feel is too aggressive. The best thing is to just shoot the rifle and lubricate it when it needs it. When it becomes hard to cock or honks like a goose as it is cocked, it needs some lube.


  34. Mr. Tom, you are the man! Just writting to say thaks for your help and advice, is wonderful count on you as an expert, even from far away in order to learn and help other people to initiate with this great activity. You are the Air Gunning Spirit, sincerly fron Costa Rica, your friend Christopher May.

  35. Sir BB PELLETIER I have gamo cfr fired abt 1000 pellets now whn I m going to cock and thn close the underleaver rod it need little force to close what u suggest??

  36. Hello Tom and thanks for all the great information you provide.

    I have a FWB 124 that I bought years ago. It appears to be in near perfect condition externally, but I have never shot it and I don’t know its history. From reading some of your information, it sounds like before shooting I may need to give it a drop or two of air chamber lube (I have some RWS air chamber lube) by putting it in the vent hole and a few drops of spring cylinder lube (I also have some RWS spring cylinder oil) on the main spring. Does that sound like the proper procedure?

    Also I want to make sure I understand how to apply the chamber lube using the needle that is with it. Do I cock the barrel leaving it broken open and then just drop the lube into the vent hole — you don’t actually put the needle through the vent hole and into the chamber do you? If that is the proper procedure do I need to leave the barrel in that position for a while to let the lubricant soak in and is it OK for the mainspring to stay stretched like that for a while?

    I also have a Beeman P1 which has not been fired for many years. Would the same basic procedure apply to that gun as well?

    Thanks very much and I would appreciate any other tips you have for getting these ready to do some shooting.

    • Gatwood,

      Welcome to the blog.

      Yes, you got it right. And jusdt a drop or 2.

      Yes the needle goes through the transfer port hole, so you have to estimate when you have oiled enough.

      Be very careful with the P1, as it doesn’t need much oil at all. I would shoot it first, just to see. It has a PTFE seal that is self-lubricating.


      • B.B.

        A few follow up questions since this is my first time to do this:

        Is the transfer port hole the same as the vent hole and located behind the barrel when it is closed?

        I am still a little confused about lubing the chamber. Is the transfer port hole open so that the needle goes into the chamber without any obstruction? If the needle goes inside, how can you tell how much oil you are putting in, and could you drop the oil into the port from outside so that you can see how much is going in, or is the transfer port opening too small for that?

        Is it OK to uncock the gun by pulling the trigger with the barrel open as long as the barrel is held and let down easy? It seems that cocking and uncocking would be a good way to spread the oil in the chamber.

        Once I make sure of proper procedure, I will be very interested to see what happens since from some additional reading, it sounds like the FWB 124 seals are prone to deteriorate over time.

        Thanks again.

        • Gatwood,

          Yes, that is the port.

          You don’t have to stick the needle inside the port — just count the drops and watch them fall through. Or count them on the outside and then insert the needle for the same length of time as you squeeze the bottle.

          There is nothing inside the port except the piston, and it will be all the way back. You can touch the seal with the oiling needle is you go in far enough.

          Yes, you can uncock the gun the way you describe. Just hold onto that barrel!

          Original 124 seals all deteriorate with time. The replacements should last your lifetime.


  37. These Q&A have been really helpful!
    I want to make sure I’m taking the correct steps with my newly purchased Diana 34: I’ve only shot it once. However, it was a bit difficult to cock and there was some noise. From what I’ve gathered, I need a couple drops of RWS Spring Cylinder oil on the large spring that is visible once I remove the stock. Is this correct?
    How many drops are too much? Is there anything else I’m missing?


    • FB,

      Welcome to the blog.

      If you are new to airguns the 34 can feel difficult to cock. That is normal. The more you use it the more it will break in and become smoother.

      Yes, you do understand how to oil the mainspring correctly. How much oil? Ten drops would be the max.

      That is all you should oil. The piston seal will actually receive that oil as it migrates forward with each shot you take.

      The one thing you should do is shoot your airgun a lot. After 3,000 shots it will become smoother and you will know it so much better!


  38. Hi BB,

    Thanks for sharing your infinite supply of airgun knowledge. A quick question on lubing my Diana RWS 34 Classic. I purchased RWS chamber lube thinking that the manufacturer would supply the best lube for their products. I have not seen you recommend this product. Any comments?



    • Bob,

      RWS Chamber Lube is the right stuff for the compression chamber. All you need is a drop every 3000 to 5000 shots. If the gun starts to honk when cocked, you can put a drop through the air transfer port.

      Don’t use it on the mainspring, because it has low viscosity. Use spring oil or something like Ballistol on the mainspring. Ten drops every 10,000 shots, or when the gun makes noise while cocking.


      • Do you mean to unscrew the bolt at the back of the cylinder and drop the oil by the little opening ?
        I just buy this pistol and I am looking forward in enjoying it and taking care of it as much as I can.
        Thanks 🙂

        By the way, it is great to see a last name with a quebecois (french canadian) consonance. It is rare I see such name outside of Quebec.

        • Nicolas75,

          Welcome to the blog.

          No, I don’t mean trying to unscrew that bolt at the back of the cylinder. You probably can’t do it, which is why those slots in the bolts are almost always buggered up.

          What I mean is to raise the barrel as if to cock the pistol but don’t cock it. When the barrel is raised you expose the air transfer port behind where the breech of the barrel was when the barrel was closed. The air transfer port is where the oil goes. And if you then cock the pistol after dropping the oil in the air transfer port, the suction of the piston draws the oil into the compression chamber where it gets on the head of the piston.


          • Oh wow ! Thanks for the detailed explanation.
            I just looked at the gun, do you mean, when you start to cock, it opens the chamber where we insert the pellet, and under the pin, that will push in the pellet, we can see a little spring, is it there, I should put the oil ?
            Because I understand it is not inside the barrel, and it is the only place left inside that chamber that I can see we could drop oil. Even if I cannot see any explicit opening. I imagine under the spring.
            Regarding raising the barrel I was not sure what you meant because the barrel does not move, it is attached to the gun, only the cocking mechanism can be raised. Maybe I just dont understand some more specialized terms to air gun, I am familiarizing my self with them, like when you said, breech of the barrel, I understand it is where we insert the pellet.
            Thanks BB I appreciate your support.
            Oh and for the bolt, it seems in perfect condition, the slot all clean and straight, easy to unscrew, but maybe it is buggered up inside. I will not try. I prefer to trust you, I dont want to messed up my 2022 gift, it was difficult to find in Canada. Brand new.

        • Nicolas75,,

          I thought we were talking about a Webley pistol that has the barrel that lifts while cocking the gun. If you are talking about a different pistol, refer to the owner’s manual.


          • The post was about the Cometa Indian, and you said to Jim, it is the same as the Tempest.
            There is no owner’s manual with that kind of informations, it is pretty basic stuff, 4 pages.
            Can you help with the Cometa Indian ?

          • Nicolas75,,

            I don’t have a pistol to look at so I can’t tell you exactly where to put the oil. But the oil has to go into the compression chamber, so find the air transfer port, which on the Indian is in the breech where the pellet probe pushes the pellet and find a way to get a few drops of oil into that port. Then cock and fire the pistol with a pellet loaded. It should make an oily splash when it fires. If so, the piston seal is oiled.


  39. Thank you for this article on lubricating spring piston air guns. I recently purchased a Diana 34. The gun shoots smooth with no twang to speak of. The cocking stroke is real smooth, with no grinding noise or ‘honk’. The gun does have a little squeak right at the start of the cocking stroke after the barrel is broken open. The squeak quickly goes away shortly after the cocking stroke begins. The rest of the cocking stroke is smooth and silent until the sear is engaged with a nice click. Do I need to put some silicone chamber oil in the compression port to lubricate the piston seal, or should I just let it be?

    • pelletgun12345678910,

      Welcome to the blog.

      There really is no reason to use Pellgunoil on the breech seal of that rifle, so why do it? But Pellgunoil will detonate. If you do oil the breech seal, use silicone chamber oil.


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