by B.B. Pelletier
Before I begin today’s topic, I have a question. Pyramyd Air is getting several product reviews in which the writer says he’s having trouble with his gun AFTER he mounts a scope. Before the scope, the gun shoots great. After the scope, it is inaccurate. One writer even said his gun was inaccurate until several friends tried it and got good groups. Then he decided he needed to learn how to shoot with a scope.
These comments tell me many shooters don’t really know how a scope sight works. They mount it on their rifle – often improperly – then assume the gun will hit whatever they place the crosshairs on. I’m not kidding!
Also, Pyramyd sales reps tell me they have certain customers who return scope after scope, claiming each one has a problem or problems. I wouldn’t tell you that no scope has a problem, but when as many as three fail in the same person’s hands, it’s unlikely that there’s a problem with all those scopes and more likely the shooter is doing something wrong or failing to do something necessary.
This is my question – would people having problems like this be likely to read this blog or is that ridiculous? Are they the least likely to ever read a blog about better shooting and so perpetuate the problems they’re having?
The last thing I want to do is to lecture readers who are already actively trying to improve their shooting skills with a bunch of remedial tips and pointers. So I’m asking whether you readers would like something like this – a tutorial on scope mounting that also includes how to shoot a scoped air rifle. I even foresee this tutorial being converted into a small booklet. Anyway, that’s what’s on my mind. Please let me know what you think.
The main event
Okay, today we start our look at the newest RWS underlever spring air rifle – the Diana 460 Magnum. Because of the number, 460, I had thought this was to be a newer version of the RWS Diana 46 underlever, but instead it’s a brand new rifle. It operates more like the sidelever guns, though there are some departures in design, too.
This is a big air rifle, make no mistake, but it isn’t the largest I’ve ever seen. At 8.7 lbs., it’s lighter than a TX200, and the stock is proportioned slimmer than what’s normal for a large air rifle. It’s much like the 350 Magnum, which is to say, very rifle-like. I equate it to holding an M1903 Springfield rifle. It just feels right. You have power without bulk, which is rare for a spring-piston rifle.
It’s 44″ long, which doesn’t make it the largest spring rifle, but it’s definitely on the big side of average. A thick, black, ventilated recoil pad adds to the length and helps make the pull length 14″.
This is a large air rifle, despite my earlier comments. The exterior surface is nearly all deeply blued metal. The logos and model information on top of the spring tube are all in flawless silver. The wood stock is figured beech and sports the sharpest laser-cut checkering Diana has ever put on a rifle. I remember the days when their checkering was flat and slippery, but this stock is very nice. Both the pistol grip and forearm sport checkered panels.
The front sight is a ramp with post and the rear is an adjustable model similar to the sight on the 34 Panther, but without the fiberoptics. I like this one, except they put the wrong rear notch in the sight. Instead of a square notch to compliment the front post, they put a U-shaped notch suitable for a front bead. Someone at Diana needs to rethink that.
When the rifle is cocked, I noticed something else new. The beartrap release button on the right side of the sliding compression chamber slides with the chamber as the rifle is cocked. The stock has been relieved to allow the button to slide and is so thin at that point that you can feel it flex under finger pressure. So, protect this area when you handle the airgun.
Rear sight has crisp detents on both adjustments. You can see the long stock notch that accomodates the new sliding beartrap button.
The RWS Diana specifications say the cocking effort is only 36 lbs., but when I tested it on a bathroom scale, it measured 47 lbs. Some of that may go away as the rifle breaks in, but I doubt it will ever cock with less than about 43 lbs. This is a rare departure for Diana, who normally quotes cocking efforts right on the money.
Tomorrow, I’ll continue our look at the gun, and maybe we’ll get in some shooting.
73 thoughts on “RWS Diana 460 Magnum – Part 1”
having read your great cleaning blogs, i still have a question. I cleaned the barrel of my airwolf with JB Bore Paste when it was brand new. It worked a treat.
Now, 1200 pellets later, the accuracy has suddenly dropped, with fliers coming every few pellets. Im using crossmans (they grouped the best) should i re-paste the barrel again, or is there something less aggresive i should use as i dont want to do any damage to the rifeling?
Crosman pellets are the worst when it comes to leading the barrel. I am guessing you are shooting them faster than 900 f.p.s. Is that right?
Anyway, you do need to clean the bore every time accuracy falls off.
no, im shooting them at 580fps. My hands get covered in the black dust on the pellets though, they are really messy. What should i clean the bore with this time though? More JB Paste? or a different, less aggressive cleaner of some kind (can you recomend)?
Okay, you have a UK-spec .22. Apparently it still will lead. I’d switch to JSBs as soon as possible.
The black dust is graphite anti-oxydant. It doesn’t make the bore lead. It’s a lubricant.
Crosman pellets have antimony in them, and antimony causes the lead to smear on the barrel walls. The same thing happens when people used hard lead bullet in firearms. Only soft lead will stop the smearing.
thanks. Sorry to be a pain, but i am not making my question very clear.
I know i now need to clean the barrel, but what should i use? JB Paste (again, would be the 2nd time in less than 2000 pellets) or some other kind of cleaner?
Yes, JB Bore Paste every time you have to clean.
BB, I’d read up on a scope handling blog. I’m doing fine really, but I figure if I can get some good info, I’d just pass it along to help someone else. A couple of points to cover would be to mount it to different type of scope mounts (dovetail, weaver, etc) and using adapters such as you might need for a dovetail scope on a Ben 392. Good shooting. JP
First time poster here, but been lurking here and learning much information here – Thank You for sharing your knowledge here – it has been of great help to me, an experienced powder shooter attempting to get ‘up to speed’ with air rifles, especially springers.
I was one of the purchasers of the discontinued Webley Tomahawks recently here at Pyramyd Air, but I have found no reference as to what rail width is found on this rifle (even the factory manual is mute on this). Could you (or anyone else here let me know – I have a Leapers 3-9×40 AO TS scope ready to go, but no mount. Thanks in advance for th e help.
Now, if I liked springers I would certainly check out this 460. Have you done any tests on the HW 90 gas ram yet?
The Tomahawk has an 11mm dovetail rail. There is no provision for a scope stop on the Tomahawk, so what some people have done is put double sets of two-piece rings on it and rely on the clamping pressure of the rings to stop scope movement.
BKL mounts have been used this way. Look at this item:
You may not be able to fit all four rings of two sets of this model on your scope. I don’t know because I’ve never tried it.
I haven’t critically tested the HW90 (Beeman RX II), but I have shot it. It performs pretty much like any other spring gun with a Theoben gas spring installed, which is to say quick and harsh. I do know many owners love their guns and I haven’t heard anything bad about it, except some comments about the hard cocking. But that’s true of any gas spring gun.
Regarding your post about buyers with scope problems:
Why take a chance on these people referring to the blog? It would save bother for everyone involved if you consolidated the important information into a printout to be included with every shipment of a scope or a sightless rifle that requires a scope to be mounted.
Same thing with a few tips about bore cleaning and artillery hold.
I would like to mount a sling to my RWS 460. Where would you recommend placing the clamp that normaly clips to the barrel?
Well, logic says it would have to clamp to the underlever. And it looks like there may be enough clearance on the 460 level to permit that, depending on which set of swivels you choose..
Where are you planning on mounting the rear swivel?
Im planning on screwing the rear swivel into the bottom end of the stock.
The underlever does’nt seem to have enough spring force on the ball detent to keep the lever from opening when using the sling. Im thinking of trying a heavier detent ball.
what do you think?
is it possible that as a PcP wears in (3000 pellets for example) the ME actually drops? If not, what else can effect ME, heat of the day? anything else?
as a pellet leaves your gun, you cant hear it (assuming its not supersonic) but a ricochet always seems to make the same noise (a very cool noise, reminds me of the old cowboy films lol)
why is this?
When a pellet ricochets, it is deformed. What you hear, and I agree that it’s cool sound, is the air rushing past a wildly spinning non-areodynamic surface.
If you already have the sling mounts, you might look at thinning the top of the clamp that fits on the lever. There used to be a clamp that wasn’t even solid. It was cut out where the lever meets the barrel. I’m thinking the clamp may be putting tension on the detend.
On the other hand, if the rifle is unsafet to carry because it keeps popping open, you make want to try a tie on (Velcro) type of hasty sling, like the tactical folks use.
PCPs do wear in. I know Falcons gain velocity after a thousand rounds or so. My Harrier got faster with age, too.
If the hammer spring takes a set, that could slow the gun down.
I’ve been reading (and following) your blogs for a while and have picked up tons of tips for them. THANKS!!
If you would take the time to do one (or several) on scopes & rifles (how to mount & shoot) it will be great!
I would greatly appreciate any tips on scope mounting and use of scopes on airguns. Thanks.
“If the hammer spring takes a set, that could slow the gun down.”
sorry for being stupid, but ive necer heard that kind of phrase before, what does “taking a set” mean?
I’d also appreciate a blog or blog series on scopes, beginning to end. The other day I actually searching for postings on how to mount scops.
I read your postings about how to zero a scope in and your posts about adjustable mounts but I don’t think I found anything on exactly how to put the scope on its rings.
i just wanted to remak about how fun the gas airsoft pistols are. my friend let me shoot a few rounds off his g17 (supposed to be a glock 17). it is so much fun. this was the first time i had ever shot one and i was thrilled! the slide comes shooting back in your hand as you watch the bb come flying out of the barrel. i was playing around with it and taught myself how to field strip it. what fun. the accuracy is great and the gun is well ballenced so it stays on target well.it very good fun for the money. im gonna put in my order asap. if you know someone who had a gas airsoft pistol i would highly recomend trying it or getting one for youself.
Nate in Mass
I have an eary 1980’s .177 cal. springer,that I bought new back then. The name is Marathon Products Model 100, from CT. but made in Spain. I never spent much time shooting the rifle do to the poor accuracy and a trigger that broke at a extra heavy weight. I used to think the gun had power do to the smoke after every shot and spring kick, but now I know better. When I first started testing it a few weeks back I put it through the chrnograph and was startled by how low the numbers where and varied so much (crosman primere wadcutters 364-219 FPS). The rifle was noisey. It shot this way back in the day also. So I started the task of lubing the spring and joints with a white lithum greese, a little 3&1 oil on trigger parts. Then used a few drops of silicone chamber oil down the chamber, thinking a 20+ year gun would have a dry seal. Well the gun started shooting tight groups and velocity was consistant around 435 fps. I tested a handfull of diffrent pellets with the same results, and was happy the gun was shootable. Well the gun sat for a few weeks, started using it today and groups were large again, and velocity was up down and up again. So I repeated the same process and the gun is consistant again although shooting faster around 520fps. Serveral hunderd pellets in todays shoot and the velocity is still around 520 fps with .30 inch groups at 6yds. The gun still disels like a mack truck, but it did that since it was new. The question is if I were making power do to the diseling would it be this consistant with the velocity and accuracy? or could it be a tired dry leather piston, that the chamber oil is helping? or something else? Also in the process of shooting 500+ rounds the trigger seems to have developed into a 2 stage, and not AS heavy anymore.
Joe G from NJ
“Taking a set” means the spring fatugues by a certain amount, then stops and remains at that power level. You can actually see it. The spring becomes shorter.
BB, I read your statement today of “I like this one, except they put the wrong rear notch in the sight. Instead of a square notch to compliment the front post, they put a U-shaped notch suitable for a front bead. Someone at Diana needs to rethink that.”
Your Sight has both notches! Loosen the allen screw remove the rear plate and rotate it 180 deg. One side has the u-shaped and the other has the square shape. Is like this on the several Diana rear sights I used lately.
Hard to say what is keeping it going. Probably not the dieseling, though. The velocity is too low for that.
It sounds like it has either a blown piston seal or a deep scratch in the chamber walls. Or the mainspring is broken in several places.
Thanks for pointing that out to me! I will mention it in tomorrow’s blog.
I guess I will see if this pattern holds up. I dont think its the main spring, you can see the spring fairly well with the stock removed and it seems ok. The idea of a deep scratch sounds possible, since the chamber lube might be helping untill if has time to move away from the area in question.
Thanks again, I love this blog.
Here’s a trick that works with Chinese rifles that have bad chambers. Drop 10 drops of corn oil (Wesson) down the transfer port and shoot the gun 50 times. Believe it or not, this will stop the smoking a little, plus it should increase the velocity. The waxes in the corn oil will fill the scratches in the cylinder wall.
Regarding your question IMHO I think many newer shooters may be having problems with mounting too large a scope on Magnum Springers with inadequate mounts or mounting strategies. People don’t realize Guns like the RWS 350M and the one you are doing today are among the most challenging ones to mount scopes on. These springers have a forward recoil of a pneumatic air hammer. The Diana scope ramp with its too shallow scope stop hole also exaggerates this difficulty.
bb – As always you’re generous with your info, and I’m sure many need tips on scope mounting and usage. However, there’s already a ton of info in the “Airgun Tips Tricks and Reviews” section, as well as in the multitude of past blog posts. Just thought I’d remind the newbies (I’m still a relative newbie)that if they do the searching they can self-educate.
You’re going to love tomorrow’s post!
Clue – “mounts”
Regarding the first part of your post … YES. PLEASE!
I just recently picked up my first “Real” airgun and can use all the tips I can find on scoped shooting technique, I’ve been having a heck of a time keeping my RWS 350 Magnum properly zeroed. I have a Bushnell 3-9×32 AO Scope mounted on an RWS C-Mount, and though I know the gun is capable of some pretty tight accuracy (I have shot dime sized groups at 25 yards), I find myself constantly fighting with the adjustable mount, adjustment knobs and repetition of my hold.
The first problem seems to be mechanical, as I feel as if the C-Mount is constantly coming loose (when I adjust the AO Bell, I sometimes feel the scope shift in the gimbals) and requiring me to tighten it back down and rezero. I’m on my second C-mount already having ruined my first one by overtightening and stripping out the screws, so I’m extremely careful about snugging any of the screws too tightly now.
As for the adjustment knobs, I definitely feel like I’m just overadjusting everything, but don’t know how to get myself back to square one. I’ll shoot a group that is high and left, measure the group, adjust the knobs down and to the right and I end up with unpredictable results such as my next group being twice as low and even further right … Unpredictable results here are confusing me.
The final part of my problem is my technique. I’ve read pretty much all of your blog posts regarding proper technique but without really knowing if my mechanical problems are working properly, I find it next to impossible to work on correcting my technique.
So, yes, I am definitely a problem child here, and don’t need an answer for all of the above, just wanted to illustrate that some of us out here are absolute rookies when it comes to some of this stuff, and absolutely appreciate all your efforts to pass on your knowledge.
BB, B-Square riser? KTK
Yes, for you and for everyone else who has weighed in, I will do the series on scopes and mounting.
This will be a BIG one!
I’m not following.
ash, I feel for you brother.
I also know that is this is water under the bridge but a 350M is not a gun to start with as a rookie. Too late but it is ok you can learn with it will only be more difficult because of needing to learn many things at the same time. Scopes, mounts, droop, hold, pellet likes of gun, etc. I think more people would have more fun starting with something no more powerful than a HW 50S to start with. It gives you a flavor of hold sensitivity but not overwhelming, same goes for mounting a scope much more forgiving of mount and so on.
Now-ash, I gave up on the RWS-C mount on my 350. Too weak a design for THIS rifle in my humble opinion. On other guns I like the B-Square 17101 (old version was 3 hex screws same as RWS C-Mount)But on the 350 it is toast in short order. I am now partial to the Beeman 5039 but you need to either increase the depth of the stop hole or hang the pin over the front of the rail. The beeman stop pin will also fail in the shallow stop hole if done as is. My new vision is to buy the B-Square 17011 adj. riser and hang the stop in front of the rail and put a Beeman 5040 non adj mount on top of it. The 5040 is rock solid.
So far nothing is easy or cheap with this gun so far as mounts go.
We shall both see tomorrow with BB’s next post. I hope he has something even better for us.
Best of Luck, KTK
I have a gamo 220 and found it’s a pretty accurate gun. At 25 yards, I can hit shotgun shells with a cheap 4x scope or open sights. Now I’m ready to move onto a bigger scope. I have a simmons 3-9 I like on my muzzle loader and .22, but it ran out of vertical adjustment. I’m thinking about an adjustable mount, so which one? I could get a new scope but rather buy the mount.
Definitely buy the nount, because even a new scope may have the same problem.
My vote is always for the B-Square two-piece mounts. Your 220 has a flat metal scope stop on top of the receiver (as I recall) to butt the rear mount against.
I have always been a avid follower of your blog. Everyday i come home hoping you have written about a new interesting topic or continued a gun review. at the risk of sounding selfish, i would really prefer if you put a link in tomorrows blog to all the previous scope related posts. I know they are great because i have gone back to read them numerous times. im sure if you point new readers in the right direction they will have the same success i had with your past scope posts.
I will try.
Thank you B.B. – I will try that 11mm mount. The double mount idea is intriguing – never seen that one before. I’ve seen military mounts that have multiple rings – makes sense.
Have a RWS C Mount needing a perch, and though I was reserving it for a RWS C1 carbine, maybe the Tomahawk will take it instead, buying a more lightweight mount system for C1.
Thanks again – and looking forward to mounts blog topic – this should be very interesting. I’ll be sure to bring popcorn and an open mind.
I’ve also purchased the B-Square 17101’s for both my 350 and 34 Dianas–it seems like a good fix so far.
One note however, I may have to try reversing the Accushot one piece that’s mounted on the riser(put the stop pin in front)–it seems to want to creep back and put pressure on the adjustment knob of the riser, because there’s a lot of play in the riser’s stop pin holes.. Not Good.
Is there any word on that special scope mount Pyramid was developing for the Dianas? Or did I miss something within this vast resource of helpfull info here?
Darn, I thought I read it all!
An update on the new mount tomorrow.
Putting information about Scope setup, sight-in, etc. in the blog is a good idea.
I’d question whether the folks returning the scopes are the ones that take the time to read the Blog though.
Maybe also put the information in the Articles, Tips and Tricks area of the site, and then link to that
from the Sights/Scopes area of the site.
The suggestion of putting photo copy in orders containg a scope might be worth considering.
If all orders are mail order, and everyone gets a receipt/confirmaiton via eMail, why not include
a link (or the actual text of the message) to the article/information with that email message?
Something along the lines of?
“While we carefully pack and ship your recent order, please take a look at the following articles about scope setup and sight-in. This information may increase your enjoyment and satisfiction with your new Airgun and/or Scope by helping you to start shooting more accurately, more quickly”.
Reagarding using multiple rings on a scope.. Take a look at the SSK Contenders. http://www.sskindustries.com/contender.htm
Now I have a question:
Will the 4X32 CenterPoint scope that came with my Crosman Phantom 1000x stand up to the recoil of that rifle, or should I put it on a pnuematic or rimfire, and get a bugbuster for the Phantom?
Thanks for all the great information in the blog B.B. !!!
I haven’t had any problems lately but I have had some in the past and noticed that searching for blogs doesn’t always turn out well with the search bar (above Previous posts in the links section) but heres my thought. Maybe pyramyd should try putting an index of blog links in the Tips and Tricks section. There customers with problems can look through the “Scope” section for help with scopes in a blog or in the “Accuracy” section for help with shooting better. There could also be a gun review section subdivided by manufacturer. I’m just thinking out loud but I think it would be helpful.
A tutorial on scope mounting would be great. The booklet sounds just as good. I have been shooting an air rifle since I was about 12 yrs and it was only after I started to read your blog that i really learned something about airgunning and shooting! Your blogs are a wealth of information and I am hooked! I try to save all the important tips and tricks that you post. man, why don’t you write a book on the subject of airguns, their care, types, shooting tecnics, maintenance, scoping, zeroing, trajectory etc.? A nice glossy with loads of photos probably a CD or DVD sheated in the cover for graphics and video? I definitely would buy it.
I’ve been shooting scoped rifles and pistols for more years than I can remember, and mounted quite a few. But before reading your blog, I never even considered the effect of having the scope adjustment pushed close to all of it’s travel in any direction. In other words, what seems obvious to you and others about scope and shooting scoped guns, may escape some of us no matter how much experience we may or may not have. I’d say go for the scoped guns blog/book. We all might learn something new.
Comprehensive scope blog is a good idea.
Never a problem for me of too smart or too much knowledge.
Wally World doesn’t know anything and local sporting goods store knows nothing about air guns.
Online retailers often provide limited info about length, weight, reticule. parallax, etc.
Cover selection–power, variable, reticule–for different purposes and different rifles. Mounting, and using well.
Again, I congratulate Pyramid Air for sponsoring this blog and find the info very useful. I do find the search hard to use [ if you type 22 SG rather than 22SG you get nothing]. I know you are notified of all new posts; is there some way for readers to find out about new posts not part of the current day’s topic?
Don in Indiana (my neck of the woods!),
I like your idea quite a lot, too.
It would be nice to think that the average customer would have the forethought to keep any printed documentation, but I’m afraid we all know that there are just too many people out there who toss the owner’s manual for anything they buy right after taking it out of the box.
Adding some of the basic tips on mounting, adjusting, and sighting in a scope to the confirmation e-mail just might be the way to go, as that would allow those who are awaiting an incoming shipment to read up on it fully before they even get started.
It would also be helpful to add the links to BB’s blog posts and Tom Gaylord’s articles as well.
I suspect that some people who mount scopes either use mounts not up to the task, do not properly utilize the scope stop, do not degrease and Loc-Tite everything, or (yes) adjust their w/e turrets improperly.
Having a nice, friendly enclosed article right there in the e-mail that informs them of their shipment also makes the customer realize PA’s commitment to satisfaction.
Oh, and I hope that PA has come to something of a solution with RWS/Diana and their notoriously difficult to scope airguns.
btw…how come RWS & Webley seem to act as if they don’t care at all about having their airguns scoped?
Their competitors, Air Arms, Weirauch/Beeman, and Air Force, have engineered theirs almost from the beginning to use scopes.
One would think, after all these years, that they would both have gotten the word, then added one more step to their manufacturing by drilling a proper scope stop hole.
Very strange, as both Diana and Webley have a reputation for building solid, high quality airguns.
Don in Indiana,
I forgot to weigh in on the matter of that Centerpoint 4x scope.
I can say definitely that all Centerpoint scopes are designed to withstand even magnum springer recoil.
I have two Centerpoints, one 3-9×40 on my .22 CFX and a 4-16×40 on my ,177 CFX, and neither shows even a hint of trouble, and this after pouring something on the order of 2,000 pellets out of the .177 and 1,000 out of the .22.
Oh, and I have been told (I think BB may have been the one who indicated it was true) that Centerpoint scopes are nothing more than rebranded Leapers scopes.
The one caveat I would point out about using that 4x scope would be that it tends to be more difficult to make accurate shots with a 4x of any brand without keeping it inside 10 yards.
I would move up to either a 6x or 8x fixed, or (better) get hold of a variable, at least a 3-9 power.
I recently lost the cross hairs on a AGE 4X32 AO. It was mounted on a Gamo Shadow 1000, using B-Square 17101 mounts.
I was shooting the gun with the scope in the optically center position and was getting poi shift so keep shooting it thinking it was from a recent lube and heat shrink tune. Fifty or so shots latter the cross hairs were gone. I always put at least 200 shots on a gun before I mount a scope.
Some where on the net I was reading that a person liked putting some downward tension on the erector tube to help steady it. So if this is true then I should have raised the scope up past poi with the mounts then dialed the scope in.
B.B does this sound correct?
Pyramid air said that they will send me a scope thank god. I’ll $hit if its not AO and just have to send it back or something.
I feel really bad about them having to replace the scope but thinking back I didn’t complain after my 2’nd set of AGE mounts that were recommended by Airgunexpress.
I loved that little scope though with its fine mill dot cross hairs.The AO was on the stiff side.
May the scope mounting gods be with you.
Thanks for the Contender link. It shows exactly what I was referring to.
Your CenterPoint should hold up fine. It’s a well-made scope in spite of the low price.
Pyramyd Air will consider your request.
Thanks for your input. I think the booklet idea is good as well.
Thanks for your input. It’s exactly what I need.
I have forwarded your suggestioin to Pyramyd Air.
As you have learned in today’s post, the work on the new Diana scope mount is progressing well. You readers will be the first to learn when there is a product.
Regarding how to keep the erector tube under tension. I just like to keep the vertical adjustment knob somewhere in the middle of the adjustment range. If doing what you suggest accomplishes that, then go for it.
I do note that some scopes are more forgiving than others. Some really do not like to have the elevation adjusted too high, and a hard-recoilling rifle will amplify the condition.
The one caveat I would point out about using that 4x scope would be that it tends to be more difficult to make accurate shots with a 4x of any brand without keeping it inside 10 yards.
Is this due to lack of adjustable Objective?
I didn’t say that, did I? Who are you quoting?
I didn’t say that, did I? Who are you quoting?
Scott is who I quoted.
~ 11 posts above mine.
Can u compare the RWS 460 with the RWS 46?
I am willing to pay for the 460 if it is a much better gun. But is it?
I know is more powerfull, is it also a lot more noisy? And is it more accurate?
Don in Indiana,
I was assuming that the 4x already had an adjustable objective, but if it does not, that DEFINITELY is another handicap.
What I was referring to was that 4x is not enough magnification to see much detail for shots out at normal ranges on small targets (starlings, English Sparrow, etc.) because the magnification is a bit low out at 25 yards or so.
You can probably still make a hit out beyond that, but your percentage will be a bit low, at least mine is with my (sadly) agine eyes.
As I said, 6x minimum, if you are stuck on a fixed power, with 8x being perhaps a bit better for most, but not all applications.
A 3-9 variable is a nice do-all scope, and probably the most popular of all.
I don’t know whether or not you’ve already made up your mind on the scope article, but I’m sure many readers would benefit from such an article.
I’ve been shooting since childhood, so quite a few years, but I often find information on your blog that is new to me, especially concerning “basics.”
I just made it to Part 2, and saw that you are doing the article.
Thank you in advance,
In the picture of the RWS the silver or chrome piece… How does that piece get oiled? I have an rws 48 and I’m pretty sure it’s rubbing against the side wall and could cause problems… How do I resolve this? Thanks
Welcome to the blog.
As Wulfraed said, that is the outside of the sliding compression chamber. It will get wear ,arks from use and they are impossible to avoid.
You can lubricate that with regular oil if you like, but that part doesn’t get much use when it slides. The nickel plating gets scratched, but that is all.
That’s the piston chamber (cocking one of these is done by moving the entire chamber with piston to the rear until the piston latches the sear, then moving the chamber [after loading a pellet] forward to seal against the rear of the barrel).
Externally shouldn’t really be a problem — it only moves when you operating the cocking lever, not during shooting.
If it really bothers you, wipe any grit off it and maybe use a silicone gun cloth to rub it down. Any real oil/grease is going to act as a dust magnet and /may/ just form more grit that will show up during cocking.