by B.B. Pelletier
I’ve wanted to write this report for a long time, but I didn’t want to get you all excited about something you couldn’t buy. Now I hear that Leapers will be shipping the scope mount bases they designed for RWS Diana rifles in July. Since it will take several reports to cover these bases adequately, the time has come to break silence.
The year 2007 was busy for me. Besides developing the Discovery with Crosman, I was also working on this base. Here’s how the project got started. Some time in 2006, I told a reader how to mount a scope on an RWS Diana rifle. That must have been the thousandth time I had to go through that litany, after which I had to convince him that these problems really do exist and then I recited what I had done to try to convince Diana that their scope base needed to be changed. Weary and desperate, I met with David Ding of Leapers at the 2007 SHOT Show and asked him to make this base.
My buddy Earl “Mac” McDonald was with me at that meeting, and his contribution turned out to be equally important. I just wanted a base that would provide a positive mechanical scope stop for most Diana rifles. I was tired of hearing that some people had sheared-off screws and long grooves cut through the steel bases of their rifles. The only way to positively afix a scope to a Diana spring rifle (with the exception of the models 46, and the Schutze), is to hang a vertical scope stop pin in front of the scope base. This looks dorky, not to mention the crudeness of having to do it that way. But the holes on the rifle’s scope base are too shallow to hold a scope stop pin, and the large-headed screw at the rear has a thin shank that will not take the strain of a scope mount bearing against it under repeated recoil. If you’re using that screw as a stop, you need to know that it will shear off.
This is what happens every time! The scope stop holes are too shallow and the pins rip out the back, cutting a groove backwards. This rifle had only 200 shots (approx.). The large-headed screw was already sheared off.
Don’t butt the rear ring against the large screw head at the right. With the new base, you won’t have to.
My contribution was the design of a plate that fits in front of the rifle’s scope base. I even named the plate the recoil shock shoulder to convey the message of what it does. Leapers executed it beautifully, and you can’t tell that their base is mounted any way but correctly. It just looks right. They radiused the bottom of the shock shoulder to conform perfectly to the spring tube diameter, so this base looks organic to the rifle. I also asked for a relief slot to protect the fragile large-headed screw from contact with the base.
Long job becomes short
Because the new base conforms so perfectly to the base on the rifle, it mounts in just seconds. The technicians at Pyramyd AIR will find their scope-mounting time is cut drastically when they start using this new base. And, if that were all the new base did, it would be worth the money, but that’s only half the tale.
Remember that Mac was at that meeting, too. After I made my pitch, he chimed in by asking if they could possibly engineer in a forward slope to cure the barrel droop problem some of the guns had. Oh my gosh! I’d completely forgotten that necessary step! Once you solve the anchoring problem, there may still be a barrel droop issue.
What is barrel droop?
Barrel droop means that the barrel’s bore is pointing downward in relation to the plane of the scope base. When a scope is mounted, the barrel shoots noticeably lower than the scope looks. To compensate has always meant cranking up the elevation knob to bring the pellet back up to where the crosshairs are looking or inserting a shim. With some RWS Diana rifles, this isn’t always possible or there’s too much shimming that has to be done. Some of them have a large enough angle of droop that the scope cannot be zeroed at 20 yards, which is the most common zero point for most air rifles.
Diana wasn’t convinced
For several years, I asked the management at Diana to fix this problem. Whenever I met them at the SHOT Show or at IWA, I would lobby for a change to the barrel droop problem. My suggestions fell on deaf ears. I’m sure I sounded like some airgun fanatic to them. After all, their guns were easy to sight in with the open sights that are installed on the barrel. What’s the problem? They hadn’t responded to the hundreds of people who called and wrote to ask what they were doing wrong. I had! Again and again, I told people how to either shim their mounts or, better yet, how to use B-Square adjustable scope mounts – mounts, I might add, that Dan Bechtel, the founder of B-Square, developed specifically for the airgun barrel droop issue.
So, when Mac spoke up, he saved the day. As long as a new base was being developed, let’s solve ALL the mounting problems at the same time. Well, hearing that gave me another idea. Since this was just going to be a scope BASE, why not make it the best base we possibly could, which would be a Picatinny rail that accepts Weaver rings? That way, after the base was installed, the rings would just snap into the grooves and the mounting job would be complete.
That meeting lasted for 20 minutes, and David Ding decided right then that he would develop the base. I would test it and when it was ready for the market, the problem of scope-mounting a Diana rifle made after 1985 would be over. Instead of a 20-minute tutorial, all I’d have to do would be give the link to the part they needed.
In the next installment, I’ll tell you about the testing I did. It lasted all year and pretty much revealed that this base won’t be easy to copy. There’s a lot more to show you and more that you need to understand about this base, so please stay tuned.
It’s nice to see somebody has made a better scoperail, my opinion on this base is that it still isn’t the sollution we where waiting for.
Although it does what is says, the rail is much to high, therefore you will having problems with scope alignment.
A better solution would be to make a completely new scoperail, so you can remove the old one and just fit a new one that has cross slots like the Webley Patriot/Beeman Kodiak, you won’t have the scope alignment isue, it is lighter and does look good, also it would be cheaper to fabricate.
with this leaper mount you don’t solve the problem you simply hide it and work around the problem, shure instalation is allot eassier but, it’s not the best solution.
This is my opinion anyway, I hope you do something with it.
With kind regards, Bart
It’s nice to see a company (Leapers) have such a pro-active person (David Ding) behind the helm. My hats off to all three of you 🙂
BB, does Leapers make scope mounts for a 13mm dovetail? I’m looking to put a scope on my HW50S.
Al In CT
So, how does this address barrel droop? I still haven’t heard you indicate how this new mount will tackle the RWS excessive droop issues on 48’s and 52’s.
Ambi or I Love Fishing or Tirtha ,
You have been posting a question to the CF-X report and you can’t see your question appear. That’s because there are over 200 questions there already. Go to that post, bring up the comments and notice that there is a blue Newer Newest at the top right of the Comments column. Click on the Newest and you will see your comment at the bottom of the list.
B.B.
B.B.
I was surprised to here the under lever dianas have the droop also, I should have asked. I bought the used 300r and was disappointed to find I could not adjust out the barrel droop when I mounted the scope…..
Will this base fit the 300r?
Wayne,
Al in CT,
Most 11mm bases/rings are really 9.5-13mm. You should be able to use the Leapers rings, as long as you can tolerate angled clamps.
B.B.
Barrel droop,
This was just Part 1. Wait for it.
The story of this base’s development is far more complex than you might imagine.
B.B,
Wayne,
No, it will not fit. No scope base to attach to.
B.B.
I have a RWS 46, this mount obviously won’t work with a 46. How can you stop scope creep o a 46?
B.B.
So what is the best fix for the 300r, (the b square adjustable did not work for me on the rws34)…I bought a second 300r from the classified…
I am also thinking maybe I should try a field target site instead of a scope on the 300r, are there contests that don’t allow scopes?….which would be good a site for them?
Wayne,
Nikram,
With the Diana 46 you are lucky, in that the rifle doesn’t recoil or vibrate much. I’d have to go with extra clamping pressure, like I will demonstrate this week in {Part 2 of the Ruger article.
B.B.
Wayne,
A “field target sight” is the largest, most powerful scope you can afford.
10-meter rifle is the only sport that doesn’t permit optics (for rifles).
Regarding the B-Square adjustables, for years I chastized shooters who couldn’t adjust them. But lately I’ve been getting feedback that their quality has slipped, possibly due to the sale of the company.
You can shim under the rear ring. That will stress the scope tube, so don’t add many shims.
Use the plastic from a pop bottle (2-liter) or the aluminum from a pop can. Put one or at most two strips inder the rear ring – between it and the base of the rifle.
B.B.
B.B.
Thanks so much…a simple fix…
So far I like the accushot mounts best…but have not tried that many..I guess the two piece is better to get more spacing, or the one piece?
Wayne,
Wayne,
Two-piece is almost always better for mounting flexibility.
B.B.
B.B.
BTW, bless your buddy “Mac” for adding the request for the barrel droop solution…….”ain’t it good to know you’ve got a friend” James Taylor
Also, Bless YOU, and thank you for your candor, giving credit to your friend…it gives us all inspiration to do the same…….
To me, your a great man in so many ways, and I have not even meant you yet, I can’t believe I have the opportunity to learn from you in person, for few days!!!…
Come on folks, sign up for the “setting up a club class”, so YOU & I can meet Tom Gaylord…
Wayne,
Ashland Air Rifle Range,
(opening soon, if I can go to the class)
BB
There are two different looking mounts you show. one has several slots cut every 1/4″ or so, and the other has a rounded notch running down the center longways through the other slots. It looks like that is the one you are selling. The product picture has the same discrepancy. whats going on?
B.B.
Looks like a great idea to me. There is a shoulder instead of a pin to stop scope movement and a slope in the mount to fit the barrel droop problem. Those seem to be very reasonable solutions to the two problems. It’s like the Star Trek episode where McCoy gains alien knowledge to reconnect Spock’s brain to his body via a plastic helmet. And when he opens his eyes, he says, “It’s so easy a child could do it.” Of course a little while later, he forgets and says, “There are trillions of nerve cells. Nobody can reconnect a brain!” Maybe we will hear about that part in the development report.
I don’t know that removing the old scope rail is an improvement. It looks to me like the rails are an integral part of the receiver.
What are the reasons that an air rifle will cause pellets to keyhole? Some of the pellet holes from my IZH 61 are looking kind of weird–very big and ragged. But the accuracy is still there and the rifle always settles down.
Matt61
Hey B.B.,
This was a brilliant idea, on your and your Buddy’s part. It takes a man to admit a problem, but it takes a bigger man to do something about it. Now, I am about to hit the order button, on an RWS 34 Panther, so i need the scope mounted now. What is the best solution for me?
Thanks,
Brody
When will the HW 45 and HW 75 pistols be back? Thank you.
BB
My solution to the scope droop problem for my 460 was to unscrew the scope rail and shim the rear.I didnt like the idea of stressing my scope by adding shims to only one side of the tube.
First i actually had to end up drilling out the screws that held on the rail because they are super glued in or something. After drilling them out i had to tap to the next size up in screw hole size (M3). I then put a .03 spacer in the rear. A .02 spacer in the middle, and a .01 spacer in the front to even out the tension when it came time to tighten. It works well and i can sight out to 50 yrds without adjusting the scope to the max elevation. Also i fixed the problem of the sliding stop pin by screwing the stop pin down before tightening scope mount on the rail. If your pin is down far enough before tightening the scope mount, then tightening the mount will force the pin into the slot very snuggly and will not move. That has worked well for me.
We have been holding off purchasing scopes and mounts for both a 34 and 48 pending the release of the new base. My guess is you are planning on doing this, but could you including some scope/mount/base suggested combinations in one of the upcoming segments? (Most of what we are doing is just plinking and some informal target stuff)
We have been waiting “a few more months” for a while now so patiently waiting for the follow up segments won’t be a problem
From the first segment this looks like a great solution.
DCS
It was just after I bought my 34 Panther that I read your reference to the upcoming mount. I’m glad that I found that, and removed my scope before any damage occurred. After the announcement in yesterday’s post, I started researching rings to attach my BSA scope to the base. I’ve come across some confusing information regarding Picatinny vs. Weaver, though, that I hope you’ll cover in a future post. Apparently Weaver rings will fit on a Picatinny base (but not vice-versa), however, the lugs on the Weaver rings are smaller than the grooves in the Picatinny base. Some people feel that this makes for a sloppy attachment and they say don’t do it. I’d appreciate your perspective.
RB in MT
I had finally mastered the use of the bsquare adj 1 pc mount on my Diana 350M in .177 and .22. After a whole lot of tweaking and adjusting, they finally settle in and then I dont have to fiddle with them anymore. Hanging the stop pin over the front of the rail looks funky, but works solidly. I welcome this new leapers product and plan to put one on each of my 350Ms. Some of the scopes that I bought in the past had weaver rings and I held onto them, so I even have rings already…packratism pays off sometimes.
–Dave Ennis
Rick,
Good eye! Those photos were supplied by Leapers. I guess we won’t know which is real until the products arrive. My prototypes look like the solid version.
B.B.
Brody,
Best solution is to order the new mount and have them use Leapers medium-height Weaver rings with it.
B.B.
HW 45 & 75 pistol,
I( don’t know when they will be back. Or even if. Beeman has clamped down on Weihrauch imports.
B.B.
Rick,
Your solution sounds interesting. Do you want to try a guest blog?
B.B.
DCS,
I think this is a great solution, of course. Yes, I’ll recommend a few rings, but when you see how simple this is, you’ll see that you would have a difficult time making a mistake with this base.
B.B.
RB in MT,
Yes, Weaver rings will attach to Picatinney, but not vice-versa. Because airguns recoil strongly in one direction (and very weakly in the other), the use of Weavers with Picatinney bases works well. The pins back up to the rear of the slots and just stay there. They don’t wander.
So use Weavers with Picatinney rails with confidence.
B.B.
Dave,
I’m glad to hear that B-Square adjustables work for you. Now you can shift them to some of your other guns.
B.B.
B.B.
I own a Gamo Big Cat. From 25 yards, I have only been able to get 1.5inch groups. I have tried shooting standing and from a table. Do you think I need a rest to get better groups?
-Garrett
Garrett,
I can think of several things to tighten your 25-yard groups. First, the pellets. Try Crosman Premiers and Crosman Premier Hollowpoints. Gamo pellets may not do well in your rifle – especially not the Raptor PBA pellets.
Next, can you clean the bore with JB Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound? If your gun has fewer than 1,000 shots through the barrel, that may be a way to improve things.
Finally, you have to use the artillery hold to shoot well with most breakbarrel spring rifles.
Read about it here:
/blog/2007/7/the-artillery-hold/
I have talked hundreds of shooters through this and they all became very accurate, once they learned to use the artillery hold. I would expect your Big Cat to group in less than 3/4-inch at 25 yards.
Please tell me how this works for you.
B.B.
Thats what i will do. I will wait till it is in stock. till then i will just deal with what i got, or use open sights.
Thanks,
Brody
This looks goods. It will be great to have this option. I have been using the B Square mount on my .177 RWS 52 for about five years with no problems.
Regards;
Mike
B.B.
This looks really nice and well engineered, and at a decent price no less.
My 54 has a full 1 degree of droop, and by doing a “garage” re-bore on the I.D. of a set of one piece rings, I was able to fully compensate for it. I also drilled out the tiny stop pin hole and drilled and tapped it for a 10-32 high strength socket head bolt. It all works fine but I was not happy about having to drill into such a nice gun.
Your solution fixes all that without having to alter the gun, which, like Lothar said the other day about his QB36, is fine with a cheap gun, but a concern with a nice gun.
Thanks again,
Lloyd
Yeah, you would have to post this the day after I made an old style scope stop for my Diana 45…
If I’d seen it I’d have added a front stop tied to the scope mount like on this leapers mount. Oh well, next one.
Looking at the picture of the torn out stop, it looks like it used a pointed screw. Other stops use a pin that could push up. On mine I used a pin but figuring I’d never remove the stop I set it in place with some loctite bearing retaining compound. We’ll see if this keeps everything in place by eliminating any wiggle room…
This all leads me to my question:
Has anyone figured the force of recoil from a magnum springer?
From that and the frictional force of the clamps holding the mount on the dovetail (as well as the inertia of the scope and mount), you could learn a lot about why scope mounts move…
Nick
Nick,
To my knowledge, no one has ever figured the recoil of a magnum springer. Maybe the Cardews did something on recoil, but they didn’t have Webley Patriots in their day.
Yes, the stop pin had a conical tip. How dumb is that?
Besides the factors you mention in relation to scope movement, I would add vibration. I believe certain guns vibrate with a frequency sufficient to allow the scope to move for a few milliseconds, while the gun is vibrating, but not when the vibration stops.
B.B.
BB,
It would be nice if Leapers could make a similar mount with droop compensation for general use, not just the RWS rifles…there would be a definite market for it! Can’t imagine it would require that much more engineering, either. I like the Weaver rings, but even 11mm dovetail would be OK.
BB,
What exactly is pellgunoil and would you recomend using it on the Walther P99 co2 pistol
I think vibration is definitely a factor too.
A friend as an old externally adjusted Unertl scope, which basically floats in the mounts with a big spring that keeps load on it. I wonder if an antique mount like this would be good for springer style vibration. Then again if something is going to move, it’s going to move…
Guys,
Please be patient with B.B. and let him finish his report. We are like wolves on a lame animal. We all have been waiting for this review for months so another couple days isn’t going to kill us. Save the questions (but mostly the critisism) untill he’s done. I have a feeling most of your questions will become clear.
Diana has indeed dropped the ball but B.B., Pyramid Air and Leapers has picked it up. Let them run with it.
Best Regards,
Bill S.
I LOVE SHOOTING PELLET GUNS! Who knew? I havent picked up my old RWS Diana mod. 26 in many years. I pulled it out recently and just about cant stop myself from shooting it or thinking about shooting it at every opportunity. I come from a firearms background earning my Distinguished Marksman award in the DCM program as a “junior” shooter 17 years ago. I have a gun safe over-flowing with firearms that are fun in their own right, but I just re-discovered that it is hard to compete with the convienience and relaxing pleasure of shooting quietly in your own backyard. I just ran out and bought a Gamo Moving Target System and some spinners and am just having a ball. Took the 26 out to the local public hunting grounds and hung an empty water bottle in a tree. Walked 10 steps, shot it. Walked 10 more shot it, repeat, repeat. Got to 70 steps and just couldnt figure out my hold-over anymore. Too much fun! I need to upgrade…now! Leaning towards an RWS mod. 54 in .22. This loosely ties in to the original topic… I am likely to want this new Leapers mount for the new rig. After my long range water bottle fun yesterday I know that I will also want a scope with a BDC type reticle to help me on the hold-over.
I will be 35 this Saturdy…going on 13. In fact, I think that my dad (after much pleading and begging from me) bought me the mod. 26 for my 13th birthday, 22 years ago this week! I remember back then, pouring through the Beeman catalog and the Airgun Digest, researching manufacturers, FPS, accuracy, pellet weights and types, energy required to kill pests, etc. I really wanted a high end Beeman but knew my dad couldnt afford it, the RWS 26 was already too much. Here I am 22 years later doing the same thing, pouring over specs, reading everything I can to make an informed decision. Only this time I’m doing it on a computer, with a much bigger budget. Where am I going with this you ask? Nowhere I guess, I just figured that if anyone could relate to my obsessive excitement it would you guys so I thought I would share. I will try to keep it to myself next time.
Steve
Steve,
I can relate. Going through the same fun at age 50. Some of us do care.
BG_Farmer,
Maybe they will make that general mount with droop compensation. They seem to be interested in the airgun market.
B.B.
Pellgunoil seems to be 20-weight non-detergent motor oil with a seal conditioned added, and yes, you can use it not only with the Walther CP99 but with every CO2 gun ever made, way back to the Giffard from the 1870s.
B.B.
Nick,
That was my assessment, as well. In fact, after I tried it and it worked, that was my rationalization of why the artillery hold works. You can’t stop a spring gun from moving, so let it move as much as it wants.
B.B.
Steve,
How I envy you! You are below the mean age of an airgunner, yet you have already discovered the joys. You have such a long time ahead of you to enjoy this hobby.
Everything you say is why we are here.
B.B.
I’m curious…why a Weaver style rail? Why not just a proper stop pin hole so RWS owners can use their current scope rails and rings?
is Leapers looking to milk a few extra bucks from Diana owners in the process?
Steve,
Enjoyed your blog. Don’t worry too much about getting the ideal air gun. Your ideals will change. Chances are you will find your air gun collection growing over the years. Just stick with German and UK manufactures and you’ll be a happy campier.
HW fan
HW fan, thats probably good advice, although it is hard to resist the allure of a low priced, well reviewed Chinese rifle. Maybe I’m thinking too far ahead but after I get the hard hitting RWS .22 cal I am already looking forward to shopping for a “one-hole” 177 competition gun.
OK, so I shot Sporting Clays tonight instead of shooting the air rifle. It was fun but I found myself thinking “I wish I had my pellet gun here to shoot those missed clays out there in the grass”. I also couldnt help but do the math – 1 round of clays = $18.00 + 2.5 boxes of 28ga. ammo (@ $9.00/box) = $40.50 + 25 minute drive (one way)… I could have stayed home and got the lawn mowed (making the wife happy) and shot a pellet gun for an hour or so at less than $5.00 (making me happy), no driving, just relaxing at home or at the local public hunting grounds across the road. Not to mention, nothing can beat the metallic TING of the silhouette targets or the way bottle caps sail through the air after getting slapped by a wadcutter. All from quiet,free air power. Alright, I will try to bring this around to the original topic (the new mount)- My RWS mod. 26 has an old Weaver 4×32 scope and 2 piece rimfire style rings mounted on the RWS rail. Thanks to my dilligent research 22 years ago as a 13 yr old I knew the scope and rings would need to be of a certain type but my budget caused me to compromise. I used lock-tite on everything and marked the position of it all so I could watch for movement. The 22 yr old marks are still there and after 1000’s of shots, nothing has moved or fallen apart. I wonder if this is due to the relatively low power of the mod. 26 or is it just a matter of time before I will need a new mount/scope?
[Wow, 13 sentences of vagely related material just to get to that basic question! I will try to work on that.]
Steve
Weaver rail,
I chose the Weaver rail – not Leapers. Airguns have avoided this simple and effective scope mounting system for too long, in my opinion.
So don’t blame Leapers. They were just doing what I asked.
B.B.
Steve,
You were fortunate that the low recoil of your Diana 26 could be controlled by those scope mounts.
Back in 1977 I bought a Feinwerkbau 124 and mounted a Tasco rifle scope on it. You weren’t supposed to be able to do that because of the special two-way recoil of a spring-piston air rifle, and the 124 had a reputation as a scope-breaker at that time. Today it is considered a tame gun.
But it worked. Sometimes the magic works, but when it doesn’t, you do need the right equipment. Don’t try what you or I tried on an RWS Diana 350 Magnum or there will be consequences.
B.B.
B.B.,
I think the use of the Weaver system was a great idea. At first I questioned it because I have recently bought several 11mm dovetail type mounts with scopes but realized once you have the new base you can by decent Weaver rings at your local sporting goods store to fit it…With variety. No more scope stop pins or scope stops for that matter. Kudos!
Bill S.
Steve,
You’re by far not alone. I’ve been out of airgun shooting since I was a child but recently picked it up again when I shot my fathers adult sized air rifle. Now that I’ve been bitten by the bug I’ve since purchased an RWS Diana 54 (Germany) and an Air Arms TX200 MK3 (UK) both in .22cal. Let me tell you that both these rifles are top notch for accuracy and quality and you won’t be disappointed with either one. In fact, it would do you good to read B.B.’s report on both. He’s the reason I bought them.
Gamo’s (Spain) are cheaper yet great for the money spent but need a good tune to reach their full potential….or at least anywhere close to the before mentioned manufacturers. Bob Werner, aka “Charlie Da Tuna” does a fantastic job tuning them and offers a drop in Trigger and Sear replacement that solves Gamo’s long and creepy triggers. Like Diana’s scope bases, they have their little faults but can easily be made into great shooting guns.
As for targets it’s a blast to bust Spree candy, lollypops, peppermints, practice golf balls and anything else I can swipe out of the house for targets. In fact both of the European guns are fully capable of hitting a Tick Tack at 20yards and neither is very hold sensitive if at all.
Have Fun with your new hobby!
Regards,
Bill S.
Steve,
Your enthusiasm is inspiring.
I wish I could reach through the PC screen and hand you my tuned HW97 with a setback trigger. CP lights average 935 fps and end up in the same hole. A tune will make the Chinese guns better, but just think what it does for the ones that are already great?
But mostly, I wish I was your age again……….Happy shooting.
HW fan
HW fan,
I too wish you could reach through the screen and let me try out your HW 97! I would love to shoot a tuned air gun and see what a difference tuning makes. If you happen to be in S/E Wisconsin any time soon… Meanwhile, I am going to try to find some airgun clubs in my area and see what I can learn. I think there may be one at the Daniel Boone Conservation League (fancy & p.c. name for gun club) which is less than 40 minutes from me. Right now field target shooting appeals to me, then maybe indoor pistol in the cold of winter. I pulled out my old model 717 pistol this weekend. Very low power, very high accuracy…very fun! I poured soda on a cardboard box and was shooting flys off of it from about 10 yds with the 717. Why is that so darn much fun? They are flys, not trophy deer and besides, my taxidermist dosent do insects. I am about this close (0.20″ ctc) from pulling the trigger on buying an RWS mod 460 in 22cal. Not ideal caliber for field target competetion but good for hunting this fall. I’ll let you know how it works out.
Best regards,
Steve
B.B,–when you do the test on the Diana scope mount any chance you could use it on a 350 mag? If you don’t have access to one you can borrow mine–Scott298
Scott,
I’ve already completed the test of the new BASE. I tested it with an RWS Diana 34 Panther and an RWS Diana 460 Magnum.
B.B.
BB,
I’m like a child at Christmas waiting for your next installment on this new base. kevin
BB,
Seem the Scope Mount un till today still no total solution for Barrel drop; Picatinny and dovetail top interchangeable; recoil shock specially in high power springer like Diana 350. Actually I already use such product for total solution all such problems, if anybody interest, please let me know, I will show you.
Leo
Leo,
Are you manufacturing a mount like that?
B.B.
Yes, we also have many version for high power Springer, how I can put photo here?
Leo
Leo,
There is no way for you to put a photo here but you can put a link here to a Photobucket account.
B.B.
B.B.
One of Our Scope mount for Diana 350:http://picasaweb.google.com.hk/Scopemount/LeoScopeMount#
Leo
Leo,
That is an interesting design. How does it attach to the rifle?
B.B.
It direct mount the base in rifle by 6 screw, so need to remove the original mount, this mount is only one part of whole mounting system, it can change to other rail or Hydraulic recoil damping attachment, droop compensator, etc… It is expensive system, but it really perfect.
We are CNC professional for precision parts, Scope Mount Rail System is one of our product, I don’t know it is marketable or not in USA.
Attached link show some model for high power Spinger or Rifle.
http://picasaweb.google.com.hk/Scopemount/LeoScopeMount?authkey=MhVR3L4AV-c#
Leo Wong
Leo,
That’s too much effort for large sales to the American market. Most customers want a product that just slips on their gun.
It sounds like your market is the airgun manufacturers.
B.B.
B.B.
You are correct, if the Base direct mount in rifle and need remove the original one is complicate job by end user, so that we have 2 type base, one is direct mount in the rifle as I show the photo to you, this design is much perfect for gun manufacturer install before shipment. Other type will install the base using traditional dovetail, user can be easy install the base within a minute, but just a little bit higher then direct mount in the rifle type. After install the base, it can select use Weaver Picatinny Rail, dovetail with stopper, our damping unit, elevation adjustor etc..
Do you think the gun manufacturer will accept install our base in their rifle as a standard?
Leo