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Education / Training Norica Quick – Part 1

Norica Quick – Part 1

by B.B. Pelletier


Norica Quick is a big, robust-looking underlever.

Well, here’s another new one! The Norica Quick is a man-sized underlever spring rifle that I’ll test for you next. The rifle should arrive in inventory later this month, but there are many new models, and I wanted to get started on them. The entire Norica line looks interesting, and the build quality seems to be on the plus side of good.

The Quick is certainly a big air rifle! It’s a shade under 46″ long and a hair over 8 lbs. Just holding it to my shoulder tells me this one is meant for adults, only, and those wanting a large hunting rifle. The length biases the weight toward the muzzle, so the rifle feels muzzle-heavy. The addition of a scope will take some of this back, but I think this rifle will always have a forward bias.

The stock is an evenly stained, medium brown beech with checkering on both sides of the forearm and grip. There’s a low raised cheekpiece on the left side, but besides that and the breech cover the rifle is ambidextrous. The butt has a soft black rubber pad with grippy horizontal lines to grip shoulders. The overall fit of wood to metal is exact.

The metal is finished a matte black. Plastic on the outside is minimal, limited to the end cap, triggerguard and rotating breech cover.

The sights are fiberoptic front and rear. The rear sight has adjustments for both elevation and windage. And the 11mm scope dovetail is cut directly into the spring tube with a scope stop plate screwed to the rear.


Rear sight is fully adjustable. Those who use open sights should like this one.

Rotating breech
The Quick has a breech cover that rotates up and to the left to gain access to the rear of the barrel. This is similar to the flip-up breech cover found on the RWS Diana 46 and the rotating breech found on the Gamo CFX. Like the Diana and unlike the CFX, this cover is not in contact with the piston, so it’s free to open at any time, regardless of whether or not the rifle is cocked. Once up, it allows generous access to the breech, though lefties will find it less convenient.

To open the breech, a knob on the right side is pulled back, then the whole cover is free to swing up and to the left. The cover has o-rings on both ends of the transfer port that runs through its length. After a pellet is loaded, the cover can just be pressed closed and the latch will lock by itself.


Breech cover flips up and to the left like this. Access to the breech is generous. Though the latch is pulled back to open the cover, it closes with just a push.

Cocking lever
The cocking lever is retained by a ball bearing detent located at the end of the cocking arm. It nests in a socket located under the muzzle at the end of the barrel. I can see no adjustment, but lockup is absolutely tight, yet the arm pops away easily when you want it.

The metal trigger appears to have no adjustments. It’s a two-stage unit that breaks cleanly. I will weigh it during the velocity test. The safety is automatic and the rifle does have an anti-beartrap mechanism, so there’s no manual way to uncock the rifle.

I could tell from the start that this one meant business, so I went right to the bathroom scale to measure the cocking effort. I cannot comfortably cock the rifle with one arm, and the 56 lbs. of effort needed to get the piston locked back is the reason why. Yes, you read that right. The effort goes up to 46 lbs. until the end of the stroke, then it jumps to about 56 lbs. as the sear engages. I even asked Edith to watch the scale as I cocked the rifle, because I didn’t want to get the scale out a second time. The specs say the rifle is rated to 1,000 f.p.s., and despite the powerful mainspring that may be correct because of the long air transfer port. It’s a medium-stroke piston, and a one-piece cocking link means a long cocking slot in the forearm. Still, vibration upon firing is minimal.

The Quick is a large air rifle, and the heavy cocking effort means it’s best-suited to hunting. It’s certainly no plinker. The quality looks and feels good. We should have some fun with this one.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

65 thoughts on “Norica Quick – Part 1”

  1. Nice looking rifle – and interesting information about the cocking effort. It sounds a little like the action of the Norica Marvic-based Beeman RS2 where the final movement of the cocking stroke engages the automatic safety. Is the bear trap lever articulated on this rifle?

    Again, looking forward to velocity and accuracy tests.


  2. B.B.
    I hate to get off topic after the last time with a simple question, but….
    I notice that PA has the cocking rod for the 48 besides the spring guide. Is there something I need to worry about here??

    When you described the cocking effort on today's rifle the first thing that came to mind was "RS2".


  3. Good morning B.B.,

    Am I all alone in not liking fiber optic sights? To me they are quick to find, but not precise enough. Ok for a body shot on a squirel, but not too good for a head shot.

    Mr B.

  4. twotalon,

    When Pyramyd AIR bought Airgun Express in 2006, they got a whole bunch of RWS parts because Airgun Express was the U.S. repair station for all RWS guns.


  5. twotallon, the 48/52/54 has a week link in the cocking rod. it is deliberate. if not properly adjusted or someone tries to mistakenly force the cocking handle forward against the beartrap mechanism this rod can eventually break. i had to replace one. its a cheap part and easy to replace but if the gun is properly handled it should not break.

  6. this is a nice looking rifle and priced nicely. i worry about the breach mechanism sealing properly for the long term. anytime you have two seals like that the potential for leakage increases.also when you close that breach you are maybe abraiding the seal surface over time. i spent a lot of experimentation getting my 46 working right. it took some different seal materials and some adjustments. that long transfer port reduces efficiency and can lead to piston slam. on the other hand if this rifle is accurate maybe tuning it down would make it into a nice well behaved rifle. i don't think i ever want to shoot a gun with a 46-56lb cocking effort.

  7. Who needs steroids to build muscle when you can own a gun like this? Talk about a workout. If I had something like this it would be used once, then never again. Kind of like the treadmill. haha.

  8. Larry P – regarding your RWS 46, did you have a leak at the transfer port? What did you use to replace those square seals RWS uses? What is your rifle shooting now in fps? Just curious as I have an RWS 46 and consider it a medium powered rifle with quite nice accuracy and easy to shoot (and cock).


  9. Dear b.b.
    I'm intrested in the norica storm. It looks like a decent breakbarrel, .22 cal, and has plenty of power. As I can imagine I could compare with any rws rifle. Can you please review the rifle?

  10. The Massimo looks awesome. Norica is coming out with a nice selection. I wish more companies would introduce new products the way Norica is. I look forward to the Massimo review.

  11. Well. I like fiber optic sights for plinking. Quick pickup and easy to shoot.

    If I need better accuracy, I go to a diopter sight or rear aperture sight or a scope.

    For hunting I NEVER use anything but a scope.

    For target shooting I like an aperture or diopter sight.

    For plinking I really like a fiber optic or dot sight!!

    So each sight has it's place and it's use.

    BTW…..you DID know you can cover the dots on a fiber optic sight with a small piece of tape or just use a black magic marker didn't you? Easy fix!

  12. B.B.

    That breech cover reminds me of the Springfield Trapdoor rifle. I don't know why anyone would make a cocking effort of 56 pounds when the velocity looks to be no more than an RWS 48 which has something like half the cocking force. Sounds like a design flaw.

    For underlevers, I've always wondered how you get the underlever loose. If it's flush with the barrel as it appears to be here, it looks like you have to wedge your fingers between the underlever and barrel and pry it open. Much less convenient than a sidelever.

    I think fiberoptic sights look cool and would work better in low light but are not as precise as target sights in bright light. I agree that sights should not require a tool to tighten. That is a major pain.


  13. pcp4metoo,

    Of course your right about each sight having it's place. I really like red dots–even on rifles for fast target acquisition. Never understood why some shooters say they're not "precise" enough. I recall seeing more than a few tight groups shot with them in bullseye.

    My biggest complaint about open sights would be pistol sights with a narrow rear leaf. It's nice to see the rear sight at least an inch wide to frame the bullseye. The IZH 46M gets it right. The Gamo Compact, not so much.

  14. The flip-up breech cover reminded me of my Crosman SSP250, which uses a similar system. Only with the SSP, the flip out part is smaller and holds a synthetic washer that has a hole in it to accept the pellet. Because the SSP250 seems to be an airgun form of the T/C firearm with its multiple choice of chamberings, it could be bought with extra bbls in your choice of .20 and .22. Standard caliber is .177. The synthetic washer is swapped out for each different caliber, along with the new barrel. I believe the 2240 is meant to be its replacement.

  15. BB,
    It is a pretty nice looking rifle. My guess on the cocking force is that it originally was designed to be less than "magnum"(thus the medium length piston stroke with the long transfer port), but then somebody changed their mind and it needed to be 1000fps, so they shoved in the biggest spring possible:).

    I bet that with a spring replacement, it would be a nice rifle at a reduced power output.

  16. dfdann
    If I remember right, the adjustment adjusts the sear engagement. If you turn it in too far, it will not cock.
    I don't think it adjusts weight of the pull.


  17. I think we owe Pyramydair a mega thanks for introducing the Norica rifles as…Noricas. Not as part of some made-up brand that sports a wild mix of airguns from all parts of the world..now we, the shooters, have a company that stands behind these rifles. We can visit their webpage, download their manuals or take a look at the trigger systems in the exploded parts view. Norica will build up some reputation, and airgunners can share their knowledge about the company's products (woodwork, trigger, truth in velocity claims, known problems, quality of the scopes they slap on their combos etc). Plus, there is a realistic chance that someone near you owns a Norica, and we can check out a product of the company before putting the money on the table.

    So, thanks a lot, Pyramydair! You took the guesswork out of the game. No more "What company really stands behind the Savage airgun? What kind of trigger has the Remington Summit?" instead, the name a real airgun manufacturer whose name we can learn to trust or mistrust.

  18. How would I ever learn how to shoot something like this and enjoy the process? I guess I'll never run with the big dogs. It would be my wish that engineers would figure out how to cock a powerful air rifle with 10 lbs. effort.

    I am looking forward to the velocity/accuracy test and how BB places in the Ironman after testing these rifles.


  19. RE: Mendoza Pellets

    I am still playing around trying to understand the differences between the ballistics of a pellet and a bullet. In the course of this I have been somewhat intrigued by the Mendoza hollow point pellets with a solid skirt.


    These pellets don't shoot any better in 0.177 at a much higher muzzle velocity than they did in my Daisy 22SG. In 0.177, my "group" was about 3 inches at 5 yards!

    QUESTION 1: Has anybody shot these pellets and gotten a semi-decent group?

    QUESTION 2: Any idea of what it would take to shoot these pellets? (I already know that you could simply melt them and use the lead to make JSBs…)


  20. ALL:

    The reviewed rifle looks to me and operates almost EXACTLY like a Hammerli NOVA. I have one. B.B. didn't mention the caliber, but mine is .177. The differences in the photo from what I have: Mine came with a scope stop and the hood for the front sight has four holes in it to allow light to illuminate the front sight. The rear sight and the flip-up cover are EXACTLY as in the photograph. I haven't measured the cocking effort, but it is heavy. The stock, including the checkering, seems identical to mine. My gun was made in Spain.

    The trigger is two-stage. It is non-adjustable and the second stage is VERY heavy (probably why I don't shoot well with it). I have well over 2,000 pellets through the gun and the trigger hasn't got any better.

    It doesn't shoot accurately for me and is my least favorite gun except for a Chinese-made dual-caliber "Beeman," which is a complete piece of junk.

    When you shoot a NOVA, have screwdrivers handy; the instruction manual wasn't kidding when it suggested that the stock screws be tightened before, during , and after firing the gun.

    It is a beautiful gun to look at, and if it performed as well as it looks, it would be my most cherished pellet rifle.

    Word verification: "disman"


  21. B.B.

    Thnaks for your reply – sorry to hear you were in ill health. The Blizzard won't help your health, to me, it's like handling a shotgun. (sounds like the Norica is equally as large)

    Volvo: Cut a girl some slack – a single woman will occasionally become preoccupied with a certain man's name, (for reasons which should be clear..)

    best regards,

    JANE Hansen

  22. Chuck,

    The spring rifle you are looking for is called the Browning Airstar. Josh at Pyramyd AIR has a couple of them he could sell. Maybe he'll cut you a deal.

    They sound like a tire place taking off your lug nuts when the electric motor cocks the gun.


  23. BB,

    Silver Eagles: Roger that. Found 2 tins of wadcuttes and 1 of the hollowpoints. Feels like the tins are almost empty, they're so lightweight! I'll add them to my ever growing pile. Can never have too much testing fodder.


    Loosening stock screws. Loctite. Try a medium strength like 242.

  24. FRED, yes leak at transfer port on 46. actually both breach seals deveoped leaks early on. eventually i was able to fix it by replacing the seal closest to the barrel with a square cut 0 ring made of viton 1000. otherwise if I used buna it extruded and began to leak after very few rounds. i tuned my gun with a maccari grt kit and eventually got a very constistant 770 fps with JSB express 7.9. These guns will not make good 800+ fps guns due to the long transfer port.

    one of the design flaws of the 46 is the way the flip up breach works and latches. if it is not set so that the mateing faces are exactly parallel it will leak. shimming the seals is the worng approach. there is a small grub screw on the bottom of the action under the cocking link. this screw sets the angle of the chizzel in a vary narrow range. maybe less than a degree but it affects latching. mine kept backing out and changing the chizzel angle which would affect the latch and the mating surfaces between the breach and the surfaces of the action. once i got that adjusted right i locktigted it so it would not back out. i got it working very well and the chrony readings were very consistant. mine was a stutzen and i had to do a lot more to it as well. the front schnauble (sp) screws are a problem and i had to make an insert in the front sight base to accept machine screws. too much work on a gun of this price.
    i finally sold the gun but only after i had it working to perfection.

  25. BB,
    I have seen that rifle! LOL! Someone a while back provided a link to a youtube, or some such, video of one in operation. Cracked me up. Bet they work wonders in the woods during a hunt.

  26. Bg – Farmer,

    I don’t think I was clear on the stock mystery yesterday. On older rifles, even my R-1 after just ten years, you start to see a distinct pattern from being held. The Walther appears to have been shot by a one handed man.

    I too prefer electrical work over plumbing; however I have felt like a new puppy on the first day with underground fence more than once.


  27. Many thanks, Larry P. From your velocity figures and the pellet weight, I'm guess you have a .177. Mine is .22 with the T-01 trigger and last time I tested, my velocity was in the 640 fps range using 14.3 gr Crossman pellet (made for Benjamin Disc). I'll re-examine the rifle for that screw but for the life of me, I have no idea what a chizzle is. Google only provides some slang and uncouth definitions (don't bother looking, ladies).

  28. Fred,

    My 46 in .22 shoots RWS Superpoints at 656fps. The .177's are pretty consistant with CPL's at 800 fps. I have not experienced Larry's seal problems, but his latch trick is good if yours blows open every now and then (the chisel is the business end of the piece you push on to open the loading port (i.e. the chisel is the latch).
    Re the cocking effort of a gun wiht this type of loading port. You pay for safety with the cocking effort. The additional length port adds inefficiency so a 46 cocks easy and shoots medium speed. To get higher speeds, you need more power (which, in this case equates to higher cocking effort). An RWS 460 is a good example of a high efficiency transfer port (short, straight) and it has just a little more cocking effort than the 46 with a lot more power. (But, for safety reasons, the gang shoots the 46 and PCP's at our shooting events at "family" cookouts)

  29. Volvo,
    I misunderstood your question, then. Maybe they shot with glove on the off hand and the wear stains you see are from loading and cocking with the trigger hand? Hopefully a really old 10M match shooter will drop in and have an answer:).

    Don't leave the yard too much if that fence is 120V:).

  30. Ah, Ha. Thank you JC for explaining what a Chisel is (I guess I now have three spellings for this doohickey). I don't have any problems with the seals so far, the port does not have any problems latching or blowing open and our velocity figures tend to confirm that (we're 12-15 fps apart). I knew for a while that this long transfer port slowed things down but it's still a very pleasant rifle to shoot and perhaps the easiest break barrel I own to shoot accurately. This was the first break barrel I bought and I bought it from Airgun John in Media, PA (Vince knows him but this is my nickname for him). He will go over the rifle and do whatever is needed before delivering it to his customers including scope mounting, centering, confirming trigger adjustment and so on. He had mentioned that the seals will tend to fall out so he uses an automobile style adhesive to make sure they stay put.


  31. Volvo,
    The scales are nice — can you weigh pellets:)? You're getting good accuracy with H&N's. The Meisterkugeln's and R-10's would probably work well, too, if you want to shoot indoors mainly. Interesting that the CPH's perform like that — too heavy for the spring, maybe.

    I wonder why the cheek-piece doesn't show darkening from use also. Here's the type of thing I've been goofing around with (I mean researching extensively) — they show lots of wear and darkening:):

  32. Bg farmer,

    I never tried Black powder yet. I bought one years ago, but ended up just taking it back. Did you get a kit or complete rifle? I wish it was easier to post pictures here like on other forums, I would like to see it.

  33. Volvo,
    It was just a kit — eventually I want to make my own stocks from some logs here, but I needed someplace to start. Currently it is competently assembled, works well, and looks decent, so I want to take it apart and improve it:). In particular, I need to flute the comb, add a patchbox, some inlays, round off the wood and blast guard where it meets the barrel, etc. The list keeps growing:). Basically, it is a really fun test-bed for what I want to do with the ultimate version.

    You've pointed out my utilitarian bias on firearms more than once, so you may be surprised to learn that I'm finding the long rifles as aesthetically interesting as they are functional. I've never loved the looks of even the fanciest c/f's (Mannlicher-Schoenauer excepted) and most .22's and pellet rifles look ridiculous to me, but the long rifles are as close as I've ever seen to functional art, although even there I'm not attracted to the flashiest ones.

    You can see it in its current state at: http://picasaweb.google.com/BGFarmer0/KentuckyLongRifle#5371961217817480706

  34. Kevin,
    Thanks; I like it too, but if you look at the gallery of antique rifles I posted for Volvo, you'll see I'm not even close to finished…a few more dozen attempts and some new skills:).

    Been meaning to ask you (perhaps again) what do I do about patches that get cut (slit on ball bulge) by the rifling? I've been retreiving a couple on every session, and still getting cuts. Using .490 round ball and 0.018 pillow ticking. Loading is not tight nor excessively easy, so I don't think my patches are too thick, but what do I know? I got a big batch of .490 handcasts at Friendship and they are slightly looser than the .490 Hogdgon balls judging by the ease of loading, but they still get cut. Do I just run loads through it until the rifling smoothes out? I can't really tell if the cutting is getting better (maybe slightly), but loading does seem to get easier every session. Accuracy continues to improve (mostly me, probably), except wind wreaks havoc more than I'm accustomed to, even with .22's — that may just be my problem, also.

  35. BG_Farmer…..
    The rifling cuts will eventualy stop as the sharp edges wear off. They don't hurt anything.
    Watch out that the patches are not blowing or burning out in the grooves…it's a sign of too loose a fit.
    Getting a good fit requires a lot of force to get the ball started. This also gets easier as the muzzle gets polished from repeated loading.
    Most barels tend to be rough and have sharp edges in the bore. They smooth out after a while and loading and cleaning gets easier.

    I steel wooled a couple new rifles that had harsh bores. A few strokes with wool on the cleaning jag takes a lot of the rough and sharp stuff out.


  36. TwoTalon,
    The patches may look just a little scorched in the grooves around the cuts — yellow/brown; hard to tell the difference from burning and fouled wonderlube. Starting force is a mild rap on the ball starter, but they won't just glide in. Thanks for your help. Hope you are feeling OK this week.

    Give it a try, you might like it. I don't have any bp pistols, but I might put a cheap .50 cal. pistol kit together just for fun sometime. Many of the people I know who've had bp pistols eventually get frustrated with the accuracy, but I really don't know anything about it, and they could be a lot of fun. I bet BB knows how to shoot BP pistols.

  37. BB,

    Thanks for the tip on the pistols. I have looked at them before, but was overwhelmed by the selection and my lack of knowledge on what to choose. I do like the feel of a single action. Are these generally permitted to be shot indoors at a range? Do you have a favorite reproduction brand?

  38. Volvo,

    No indoor range will permit black powder. Too much smoke.

    I recommend Pedersoli, but they are rebadged by American outlets, just like airguns.

    A good start is to buy a Gun Digest Black Powder Handbook and read about them.


  39. Bg farmer,

    I may have discovered another reason the Premier Heavies were not so good in the Walther, check out the far right in the 1st scale photo. Also I should have paid more attention to BB’s photo blog on airguns, the bottom two the seller took actually look like the rifle. Maybe I need a better camera. (Always blame the equipment, when in doubt)

  40. Kevin,
    Not so worried about being pretty anymore. : )

    Shot the Walther LG 55 at 35 yards on Thursday. Groups were between .2 and .33 ctc. I used a real ten meter target to get clean holes. Not bad, as it was windy. Issue is groups were anywhere from 1 ½ to 2 inches low when sighted in at 13.3 yards. I need to play with chair gun to see what would be optimum for sighting in. I would guess that after 40-45 yards it start to drop real fast. (BG farmer, sorry for the chair gun reference – I mostly rely on the real thing, but I need to keep my back yard time to a minimum.)


  41. Volvo,

    Wow. That's impressive especially considering the wind buffeting those light weight pellets you've been using.

    Hopefully you found some time for the cyclone as well or has it turned into the redheaded stepchild?


  42. Volvo: If you can find one, try out a Ruger Old Army SA/BP revolverstrine. Preferably one with adjustable sights. They don't make them anymore as they were recently discontinued, but they are still fairly common on the used market. I have one in SS with the 7 1/2" barrel and it is a shooter. Similar in power to a .38 special ft/lbs power wise, according to the charts, but uses a .454 dia ball or bullet. I have used many reproductions (Colt 1860 Navies, Remington's ect..), but if you want performance, the Ruger is the best choice. Robert

  43. Robert,
    Thanks for the tip. I will keep an eye out on Gunbroker. I have always been a fan of the Ruger brand for sturdy utility and value.

    The FX Cyclone still sees service, but it offers no challenge at the ranges I shoot at home. It is just too easy to shoot accurately. (That is not necessarily a bad thing when needed.) Inside I have 40 feet without having to move basement clutter and outside I have only 50 yards. The Walther pretty well makes short work of indoor targets, but still requires a correct hold and follow through. Outside however, if I change my zero to 21 feet it will rise almost two inches on the way and be back on at 36 yards and 6 inches low at 50 yards. That will be entertaining to try and connect with sub one inch targets.

  44. Volvo,

    I'm going to second Robert's suggestion of the Ruger Old Arms revolver. I never shot one, but I have read nothing but good things about them.

    Shooters who compete in matches all use some variation of the Remington BP revolver, and the Ruger is the best-developed version coming out of the factory. The Colt is too much of an instinct shooter, compared to the Remington style.


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