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Education / Training Air Arms TX200: Part 2

Air Arms TX200: Part 2

by B.B. Pelletier

First, a correction from yesterday. I said the Air Arms website shows the TX barrel to be 14″, and that was wrong. The tech data differentiates between the true barrel and the “overtube.” The barrel is 335mm and the overtube is 395mm. The TX200Mark III barrel length is really over 13″.

Today, I’ll address everything that I didn’t get to yesterday.

A recoilless TX!
The TX200SR was a recoilless version of the rifle that used the sledge anti-recoil system – much like today’s Diana RWS 54. I owned one for a brief time. I emphasize brief because the SR was as far from a TX as it’s possible to be! For starters, the action never locked up. It just flopped around loose in the stock all the time. Very disconcerting! If the rifle wasn’t close to level when you shot it, you felt the recoil. Since I bought it to shoot field target and had to shoot into a treed area, I felt the recoil a lot and as far as I was concerned, the mechanism was a waste of time. The trigger needed extra linkage due to the sliding mechanism – and it was horrible! The gun had a two-stage cocking effort that took nearly 60 lbs. of effort to complete – for about 12 foot-pounds of muzzle energy! On top of everything else, it wasn’t as accurate as my TX200 Mark II.

I sent my rifle to Ken Reeves, one of the top tuners at that time (1996). He specialized in tuning the SR, so it came back much nicer than it went out, but the trigger still had some creep. Ken suggested that I push the action forward in the stock during cocking to reduce the effort, but it was still 37 lbs. of force. A lot of work ($130 in ’96) produced a rifle that was still not up to the TX200 Mark II (the current model in 1996). I think today’s Mark III is even better than the Mark II. It’s no surprise that Air Arms quit making the SR at the end of ’96.

The Hunter Carbine
The TX200HC or Hunter Carbine is a shortened version of an already short rifle. It was developed when the longer Mark II was still the principal TX200, and at that time it represented a big difference in length. But the new Mark III is shorter than the Mark II, so the Hunter Carbine is not that much shorter anymore – just about three inches. The rifled barrel is just 9.5″ long, which is pretty short for a springer. I’ve never owned one of these but I have shot the 12 foot-pound models. They’re very similar to a TX200, but they have a shorter barrel that makes for an increased jolt when the gun fires. They develop less power in the FAC models, also because of the shorter barrel. And the shorter cocking lever means an increase in cocking effort – so much so that Air Arms puts a cocking aid handle on the Hunter Carbine that’s not on the regular TX200.

The Hunter Carbine is a more compact air rifle than its big brother – the TX200 Mk III.

Trigger and accuracy are pretty much the same as the TX200. Air Arms says you lose 2 foot-pounds in the .177 high-power FAC version compared to the TX200 and one foot-pound in .22. It has a threaded insert to accept a silencer. No legal silencer is available here in the U.S., so the muzzle report will be higher than the TX200.

What about .22 caliber?
The TX200 Mk III and Hunter Carbine are available in .22 caliber as well as .177. By virtue of its very short barrel, the Hunter Carbine does not develop much more power in .22 than in .177 (this data was taken directly from the Air Arms website). Only the TX200 Mk III shows the classic 20 percent power increase when you move up to .22. The TX200 isn’t a magnum spring rifle by today’s standards. Instead, think of it as the nicest combination of shooting behavior and reasonable power you can buy. Will it work for hunters? Absolutely! Is .22 caliber the way to go? Yes, in the TX200; not as positive in the Hunter Carbine, where the power increase isn’t that great.

Please understand that this whole report is based on my personal feelings about these air rifles. Any one of them would make a fine rifle, and I’ve been out-shot by all of them! I’ve tried to explain why I feel the way I do, and you must decide which gun to buy based on your own criteria.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

171 thoughts on “Air Arms TX200: Part 2”

    • I think the reviewer has been somewhat harsh on the TX200SR. I have the English 12Ft/lb version and at no time have I felt any recoil when shooting the rifle. Yes the action will move if you tilt it from vertically downwards to vertically upwards but other than that it is as smooth to shoot as a single stroke pneumatic. I also have a TX200 Mk3 and the TX200 SR Mk2 makes the mark 3 seem to have heavy recoil in comparison. The TX200 SR is deadly accurate, also you can rest a pellet on the top of the scope mount and fire the rifle, the pellet will only move 3 or 4 millimetres. I have a Feinwerkbau 300S with the same anti recoil system but the TX200SR is better, the action slops about much more on the FWB 300S. I can confirm for a fact that the trigger on my TX200SR is absolutely fine, it is light and crisp, I have not thought about adjusting it as I do not think there is any need. I will say the SR needs more cocking effort than the Mk3 but I am a 140 Lb weakling any I can shoot the TX200SR for hours without any problem. The only recoiless spring air rifle I can say is better than the TX200SR is the Diana/Original model 75 with its internal anti recoil mechanism. This has PCP levels of smoothness to shoot but the TX200SR is very close to that.
      Would I buy a new TX200 SR Mk3 if they were to make one, Yes absolutely even if it was expensive (which it probably would be).
      I am unable to say what value one would be worth in America, I paid £400 ($516) from an admittedly expensive dealer in the UK. I would strongly recommend trying one out if at all possible (or a Diana/Original model 75 or FWB 300S). Perhaps the best way to explain it is that it is like shooting a PCP but without the dead, sterile feel of a PCP where the only way you know you fired is the sound of the air exiting the barrel and nothing else (and often not even much sound ).
      PCP’s have probably killed the market for recoiless springers. To give a comparison you can get from A to B in a Honda car in nice comfort and great reliability but I would much rather do it in an old V8 muscle car. PCP’s are the Honda Civics of the air rifle world, springers especially unusual ones show there are much more involving ways to get there.
      Just a note if you do get a German recoiless spring rifle be aware it will be 6Ft/lbs only and the seals will probably need replacing (they go hard and crumbly with age). The TX200SR is simpler and easier to refurbish with good parts availability (at least here in the UK).

  1. Elk,

    A TX200SR is a desirable airgun. Some shooters seem to love it, despite my comments. I think it should probably command as much as a TX, if not more, for it certainly sold for more when it was being made.

    If you mean should Air Arms revive the model, however, the answer is an emphatic NO. The SR was never as well-received as the TX, for what I feel were valid reasons.


  2. After being on back order for 3 months for a MarkIII in 0.22, I jumped at the chance when I found a HC. For an extra $15 it came with a plastic insert that screws into the muzzle and seems to activate the moderator ( I live in the US, I assume it is legal?). With it, it is much quieter than my CF-X. It is extremely accurate and the cross hairs barely move off the bullseye when I shoot. No rattling or jumping. As for power, I never get a chance to shoot past 25 yds and it has plenty of power for that. I bought it for the accuracy and smooth operation, and it delivers. My left elbow has been bothering me since I got it, but I’m sure that will go away. Some day I want to shoot a MIII to see the difference, but I am very happy with my choice.

  3. MCA,

    I hope our readers see your comment. This is the “difference” that I have been trying to convey in my writing.

    The plastic insert is just a finishing cap and it is legal. In Europe, they offer a true baffled silencer that screws into the threads and quiets the gun a little more, though as you note, it’s pretty quiet now.

    I’m glad you have experienced the TX200.


  4. BB,

    You mentioned a power decrease in the carbine version .22. “They develop less power in the FAC models, also because of the shorter barrel.” And “By virtue of its very short barrel, the Hunter Carbine does not develop much more power in .22 than in .177 (this data was taken directly from the Air Arms website). Only the TX200 Mk III shows the classic 20 percent power increase when you move up to .22.”

    How does the shorter barrel on a carbine SPRINGER cause a decrease in power in comparison to the full length version?

    Or did I miss something?


  5. dsw,

    I thought I covered this in the past, but if not I apologise. Apparently with a modern spring powerplant it takes at least 11 inches to achieve max velocity. That comes from Cardew. So a 9.5-inch barrel is going to give you less-than-maximum velocity.


  6. Yeah, now that you mentioned it, I can recall it being said by “the kinetic energy guy” as well.

    btw, I read Middleton’s book at your recommendation. (whew!, some read there!)



  7. dsw (and everyone else who wondered)

    FAC stands for Firearm Certificate. In the United Kingdom, an air rifle must have less than 12 foot-pounds of muzzle energy and air pistols less than six. When they develop more than 12/6, respectively, they are considerd firearms and require a firearms certificate to own. So the shorthand for a gun that develops over 12 foot-pounds is FAC.


  8. dsw,

    Yes, and it goes farther than that. The world airgunning community has taken to calling anything that is restricted in their country an FAC, so you may hear the term used in a broader context than just the UK.

    For example, in Canada the limit is velocity, not power. Anything over 500 f.p.s. is a firearm. So some Canadian airgunners use the term FAC. I’m not sure it’s the official term used in Canada, but I have heard it used that way conversationally.


  9. BB,

    I was reading and saw that the weihrauch HW97K had 12FP’s.I want to know if the U.S model has more.And if not,is there a way to make it more powerful without losing accuracy?

    CF-X guy

  10. CF-X guy,

    You know how to do this. It’s a springer, so figure a light pellet. In .177 figure 7.5 grains. In .22 figure 12.5 grains.

    Use the calculator in the article, “Muzzle energy” on Pyramyd’s site.

    Calculate the energy and give us a report.


  11. BB,

    It sayed below 15FP’s.I only want to know the max I can get.What happens is that If they say the max velocity is 730fps and I want to know the foot pounds of a 28 grain eun jin I cant get it cause I dont know the speed that ill achive with that pellet in that rifle.I mean that I cant calculate all on 730fps because the velocity changes with each pellets.Hope you understand what im saying.

    CF-X guy

  12. CF-X Guy,

    If you know the weight of the pellet and the muzzle energy of the gun the rest will come out pretty accurate on that calculator.

    According to the calculator a 28gr pellet traveling at 730fps has 33.14 fp at the muzzle. We know that’s too high for muzzle energy so the speed must not be true.

    Now we go to the second section of the calculator.

    A HW97 has a claimed fp of 17 (I think), let’s assume it’s true. put in 17fp and 28gr and what do you get?

    P S your not mad at me for joking with you previously about changing your name are you?


  13. If that doesn’t do it for you try guessing until the numbers make sense.

    example: Hw97 is rated at 730fps and you know they’re not going to test with a 28gr pellet, right? But plug that # in anyway and keep adjusting it ’till you get to something reasonable, like the sugested 12.5gr by BB.

    You can do it!


  14. dsw,

    Good to have you back!!!!!!!!!!!!
    I dont know what you mean about the name stuff but NO im not mad at you.Your my pal.Anyways,I read that you were going to buy the tx200,and I think its great!!!!!!!
    Ill be buying a weihrauch hw97k myself!!!!!!!!.When you get it send me some pics.OHHH and I forgot to tell you that since you gave the cf-x with leapers scope pics I had them as my wallpaper untill I got mine!!!!Youll find it funny but I loved your rifle.If I have a chance to get a cam ill send some pics of mine.Well,hope your great!!!!!!!God bless you and take care.

    CF-X guy

  15. Nice. Yeah Ive been working out of town coming home few days, catching up on the daily posts and back to work.

    I can’t justify the extra $ for the TX200 over the CFX, so I won’t be making that purchase soon, though it is tempting.

    Let me know how you did with that calculator. You gotta play with it to get to the truth.

    be well, dsw

  16. BB,

    This is off topic I know. Please forgive me. I just ordered a Air Arms 410 extra with the walnut thumbhole stock from Pyramyd AIR. It was a shop rifle they used for testing. Do you have any expirience with the 410e Have you ever shot a AA 400/410? I’m also interested in other readers opinions on this rifle. Thanks.


  17. BB.

    i just found your blog, Awsome!

    i was reading your blogs on ftlbs vs. fps. very eye opening. if i understood. if my gun shoot 17 ftlb then when i shoot pelets of diferant weight only the fps changes?
    i have a powerline 1000sb do you know what the ftlbs rating of this gun is? i im looking for a new hunting rifle. what is the most powerful springer out? and witch would you recomend? .22 or .177?
    thank you for your time


  18. CF-X guy,

    I’d say dsw pretty well answered the question for you.

    But here are my thoughts. A spring rifle gets less energy with a heavier pellet, so if you calculate that the 12.5-grain gave less than 15 FP, you can bet the 28-grain will be less than that. So plug 13 FP into the calculator and see what kind of velocity you get with a 28-grain pellet.

    Will it be exact? Probably not. Will it be in the ballpark? Probably so.


  19. dizzy,

    No, there’s more to it than that. Spring guns get higher power from light pellets, so if a certain spring gun is rated at 17 foot-pounds, we know that was determined with a light pellet. A heavier pellet will go slower, of course, but it won’t just go slower to generate 17 foot-pounds. It may only develop 15 foot-pounds, which is even slower than you might have expected. The heavier the pellet, the less energy it develops in a spring gun.

    Gas and pneumatic guns are the opposite. They generate higher power with heavier pellets – so everything turns around for them.


  20. BB,

    Thanks for cleaning that mess I started about the calculator! It was getting too long to get into springer power / pellet weight proportion stuff.


  21. Jason,

    Nice airgun, that AA410. I spotted one a couple of weeks ago but didn’t buy it. Came home and started looking it up, now I wish I had bought it!

    Congrats. See ya all next week sometime.


  22. BB,

    Cool stuff going on here.I would like to buy tx200 or a hw97 or hw77.Some one sayed that the hw97 had square spring or some thing.Is that true?


  23. dsw,

    I have an AA410 Xtra .22, pre-power adjustment model, and yes, it is a fine piece of equipment. Very quiet. Just a little heavy for me in offhand mode, considering the scope adds weight to the top and thereby raises the center of gravity. All I have for chrony data is what you can see on sites where it is sold. I am looking to sell it and get a Condor, so if you’re interested in the beech stock right hand version with sling studs I added, email me at leon_a28314@yahoo.com

  24. BB,

    I thimk I found the web site.Its weihrauch-sport.com.They say there are 2 types of hw97k,the beech model and the laminated stock model,wich one does pyramid air carry?


  25. Well sorry to always throw out different questions on you guy’s opinion’s but everybody here has so much information and different experiences so my question today is if your scope is pretty much zeroed in at any given yardage say 20 yards and something is five to ten more yards out, if you don’t mess with the windage and elevation and you just turn the parallex knob to focus in on your target shood you still be able to hit your target? Please can you help me figure this out.


  26. BB,

    I know that the weihrauch hw97k has a silencer.But,does the one in pyramid air has a silencer?
    I ask because I read that in their website but dont know if its the same to US.


  27. Robert,

    If you zero a scope at 20 yards the second intersection depends on pellet velocity. With .22 cal pellet moving at 650 fps the second zero will be at 25 or 26 yards. In between 20y and 26y the pellet will strike the off aimpoint by about a pellets width. At ranges closer than 20y and futher than 26 yards the pellet will strike below your aimpoint. As velocity increases the “flat” distance between the near and far zeros are longer with the pellet still striking near the aimpoint. I hope this helps. If you go to airguninfo.com and look under calculators you will find all kinds of programs for calculating airgunning data. Thanks.


  28. BB,

    I know that the weihrauch hw97k has a silencer.But,does the one in pyramid air has a silencer?
    I ask because I read that in their website but dont know if its the same to US.


  29. PODEROSO and BB

    I think its a silencer because even though were in the US,the silencer is attached to the gun.And if you read one of the fx200 post youll notice that that one too is a silencer.Still,BB would you confirm what im saying?
    And also,I looked it up and all hw97 have the square spring.


    my results on the calculator were:

    A 14 grain pellet traveling at 730fps produces 16.57.

    a 15 grain pellet going 730fps gets 17.75 so it surpases what the site sayed so it probably is not true.

    But a 14.36 grain pellet going 730fps will get exacly 17 foot pounds!!!!!!!

    BB,tell me what you think

    CF-X guy

  30. CF-X guy,

    What I think is – you are getting too hung up on numbers. They are useful for establishing the general performance of an airgun, but no airgun performs exactly like the numbers say. So you can say an HW97 is a 17 foot-pound rifle in .22 and an AirForce Talon SS is a 25 foot-pound rifle, also in .22. That differentiates the power levels of the 2 rifles. But don’t expect that either rifle will always perform exactly as the numbers indicate. There are variances in individual examples.

    I know you understand this, but what I’m trying to say is that you should buy a rifle for ALL of its attributes; don’t focus on velocity, alone.

    We have established that the HW97 is a 17 foot-pound air rifle. That means that with different pellets, it should deliver from a low of around 13.5 to a high of perhaps 17.5 foot-pounds. The heavy pellets will be the lowest and the lightest will be the highest – in general. There will be a few cases where a heavier pellet will perform better than the general rule indicates and there will be a few cases where a lighter pellet will perform worse than expected. But the range of performance will be approximately what I’ve indicated.

    So buy the rifle, if it has what you want.

    And also seriously consider getting a chronograph at the first opportunity. I think once you see the actual numbers generated by every shot, you will gain a better appreciation of how this all works.


  31. BB,

    OK,I understand.And Im going to buy it.I dont completely trust the numbers but since you asked me to check with the calculator that what I did.Thats what I got in the calculator but im not saying its real.Its just what you told me to check.

    CF-X guy

  32. well chrony here I come, in the end this is one peice of equipment that is a must have aside from the big ball of painters putty that I set up at any of the distances I am shooting at, this helps me check how a particular pellet acts on impact. above everything I think accuracy and maximum damage will help in getting the most out of whatever one shoots. Mine happens to be (it’s O.K guys) a gamo 1250 in .22cal and this has me interested on it’s REAL numbers at REAL distances.


  33. to the question above,

    I own a cf-x and no I dont think that is right cause you woulnt be able to zero your scope.Wich mounts are you using and for wich scope?

    CF-X guy

  34. Wobbly scope mounts,

    No, that is not right! The problem is air rifle scope dovetails and bases are not a uniform size, so mount makers try to get close to the more popluar models. Sometimes they will be off. You need a different set of rings for your CF-X.

    Read the CF-X report to see what worked for me:



  35. Regarding my scope question, it is NOT the rings or scope that move but the actual mounting platform on the gun that is loose. However, from your responses I take it that this should be tight.

  36. Hi B.B.

    I’ve been interested in buying the AA TX200III and like the accuracy/quality features you’ve described. However, I find myself more inclined toward a more powerful 20+ ftlb springer. Does a TX200-like springer with higher energy come to mind? What would be your pick for the best combination of TX200 accuracy/qualities and 20+ ftlb energy?


  37. Hi, I have a TX200 with an unusual left-handed stock and brass or gold-plated trigger blade and guard. Can anyone tell me if those parts are after-market and who made them? See pics here:


    and here:


    Note that the items listed are not yet ready for public auction. They will be listed at http://www.auctionarms.com this month once I have determined values for each item. The private auction was for family members to pick and choose from in memory of our “Mike” who was killed in 2003. We’re just now going through his air rifle collection to auction for his widow!

  38. Tom,

    The stock and trigger on this TX 200 Mark III appear to be made by Jim Maccari.

    The box it’s sitting on is also interesting. It’s from Air Rifle Headquarters. Whatever gun it belongs to (NOT the TX 200) is worth a bit more for that.

    If you don’t get an offer of $300 for the Whisco 55N, I will pay that for it. Contact me

  39. Hi B.B.,

    That looks like a good offer for the 55N. It appears to be in its original Air Rifle Headquarters box, possibly circa 1980. A receipt is inside too (showing Serial #3939), and indicating repairs made back then (spring replacement…, testing, and chronometer score of 854 fps…), I’m not sure exactly when my brother bought it.

    I didn’t see a contact e-mail address so I’m replying here.

    What do you think the TX200 MKIII is worth? I just located its owner’s manual.

    There are quite a few Beeman’s catalogues dating back to the mid or early 70’s and a few old Air Rifle Headquarters catalogues too among all the other newsletters and flyers all about air guns…


  40. Tom,

    Go to www,airgunwriter.com

    On the home page you will see the underlined words “Inquire for availability” under my name at the top of the page. Click on those words and an email page will pop up. It comes to me, only

    I am interested in the rifle, but I don’t like to do business on Pyramyd Air’s website.

    The TX200 Mark III with a walnut Tyrolean left-hand stock should be worth $600, in my opinion. Tyrolean stocks are in demand, and the TX is the finest affordable spring rifle ever made. That rifle is probably tuned, as well, but unless you know for sure, you can’t say that.

    The Beeman and Air Rifle Headquarters catalogs are worth some money. The first and second editions of Beeman’s catalog have a black and white cover and usually sell for $500 in fine condition. The others sell in the $10-20 range, with the ones older than #12 being worth the most. Again, they must be in fine condition.

    The ARH catalogues are in the same boat. They are all B&W and fetch $10-20, depending on condition.



  41. B.B.,
    You’ve sold me on the Diana 54 and after reading this and several other blogs I prob wouldn’t have had to ask you all those questions. I do apologize for taking up so much of your time.

    However, after reading about the TX200 you used to have that was tuned by two different Tuners I can’t help but wonder if a little more power could be had by Tuning the current TX200MK3 and still retain it’s wonderful qualities? Any thoughts??

    Bill S.

  42. Bill S.,

    I don’t know if tuners can add power to a .22 TX 200 or not. I think not, but I don’t know everything.,

    The TX is a wonderful air rifle. If you get one you will not be disappointed. Don’t let me talk you into something you don’t want. If you want a TX – get one.


  43. My 2 cents, air rifles is not just all about power, how often do we shoot past 100 yards that we need more power on a springer and anything over 700fps is plenty on a springer. Tx200 mk3 in.22 will be a good target and hunting gun with the power it has. The .177 for hunting has pros and cons even tho it has more fps will not work f or my application. Tx200 mk3 in .22 is dual purpose for me. I can hunt and shoot targets with the accuracy in my area of range. Anything further is challenging but if you know your gun you will hit your mark.

    Hope this helps


  44. Gino,
    You make a great point. Power without accuracy is useless but I think a minimum amount is needed as I’ll explain below:

    B.B. convinced me to buy the Diana RWS 54 for both power and smoothness or “the ease to shoot accurately” as he puts it. Yet I’m sure it gets this ability from the anti-recoil system, otherwise I don’t think it would be in the same league as the TX200. Quoting B.B. the 54 shoots a little over 800 fps. with a 14.3 grain .22 Premier. I think 800 to 850 is the ideal velocity for this caliber for both Hunting and long range paper punching. A Springer producing power above that is going to kick like a Mule and therefore be harder to shoot accurately…Que the Webley Patriot.

    My point is that even though the TX200 is super smooth (without a anti-recoil system like the 54!!) it would be neat to have one that shoots a little harder. ***This is of course to give a Hunter/Target Shooter (Me) more options for accurate fixed barrel spring rifles in this price range.

    Don’t get me wrong, if the TX200’s output can’t be increased from 17.5 to say 20 ft. lbs then that’s ok. I still want one in addition the Diana 54. It’s a great rifle and I can’t wait to get my paws on one. Regardless….

    Hope this made sense. I’m known to ramble.

    Bill S.

  45. Amen ! Perfectly said. Most americans always want more more more even if we dont need it lol. Wait till you shoot the TX200 MK III for a day or two, you will get one as well to add toyour collection for sure. It got me hooked after 20 minutes and I settled for a used one at Pyramid air coz I couldnt wait for a new unit, besides a used one is sorta broken in anyways. Nice inputs here.



  46. B.B.

    What is the best way to pull the trigger without upsetting the form/stance or lessen the pulled shot. What other mods can you do to the TX200 MK III? Not that it needs it but as a hobby you always have that urge to modify or add things to it.

    Thank you again


  47. So true, Thank you again B.B.

    I need your help clearing my mind, I am still torn to either get a new MK3 .177 cal or just stick to this used MK3 .22 cal????

    Why do I even want the .177??? but I guess for what I shoot at (paper and silouettes, the .22 will do.

    Will the .177 shoot better in competitions over 20 yards?

    I practice mostly indoor in my garage at 10 meters. That is all I have for now and till I join the clubs all I have is 10 meters of fun. Maybe when I get better at the standing position then I will not complain as much.

    I will just wait for tips from you on how to practice shooting so please advice me and help put an end on my .177 urge over the .22 cal. It will all end after the 30 days is up at the end of April (point of no return/swap).

    Thank you again


  48. Gino,

    A .177 is cheaper to shoot because of pellet costs. A .22 is better for hunting.

    If you like the rifle you now have, I would keep it. If you ever want to shoot field target, get a .177 because nobody shoots FT with a .22.


  49. Thank you B.B. I bought another MK3 in Beechwood trim (only one instock no walnut finish instock hehehe) on a .177 cal. I am sure I would enjoy that on the FT matches.

    Will post as soon as it arrives.



  50. Bill S.,

    The caliber selection for field target has nothing to do with accuracy. It has everything to do with the size (diameter) of the pellet.

    Read Part 1 of the the blog of field target shooting for clarification:




  51. BB

    Okay so now I have my TX200 MK3 for field target in .177 cal and thank you for narrowing the selection for me I cant be happier.

    Now comes the tricky part, I need your help/advice on a nice springer hunting rifle on a .22 cal that I can be as accurate and has enough power to shoot further than 30 meters to 50 and over if all possible.

    I suppose a Benjamin super streak, RWS, Gamo might do or a Mendoza etc. and spending budget around $270 ish new or used but owning a TX200 MK3 made me a tad picky on trigger feel and quality and ease of cocking so I am really confused and don’t want to ship back (not satisfied) any unit to save Pyramid air revenue.

    I am looking for a rugged rifle that I need not worry if the stock gets banged up while hunting.

  52. BB

    Okay I am logged on and reading as usual.

    Does the Panther pro without the open sites come in 22 cal? I do not like open sites on a break barrel, it just gets my palm scratched up and eventaully hurts.

    The smooth muzzle/handle on the Pro is more feasable. Alos the droop part on the barrel scares me. Is that a big deal really or the C mont fixes that?

    Thank you again


  53. BB

    Webley Tomahawk in 22 caliber, any comments on that gun? It looks really nice and they did not post the cocking effort so I am cluless if I can cock that break barrel and how does it shoot compared to the Panther.

    Last question.I am debating to purchase back a used TX200 MK3 in 22 cal or a lighter, rugged, reasonable fps and most of all trigger adjustable rifle for hunting etc.

    There are so many choices and it is driving me nuts. I almost bought a BAM B40 but Pyramid does not carry it on a 22 and a used 22 cal unit was sold today after I purchased it and got a call back after an hour with the bad news that it was no longer available.

    If I get the RWS 34 panther, what mount will I use if I go with a 42 or 44 scope bell size and not worry about droop/accuracy on long shot kills? Also where to buy a muzzle to replace that plastic front site.

    I really need a 22 cal so help me narrow it down. My heart is on the Panther 34 but the droop and how it ruins mounts scare me. But German built with plastics I dont mind.

    Thank you


  54. Gino,

    The new scope BASE (not mount) that I designed and tested for Leapers (for a solid YEAR) will absolutely solve all scope droop and recoil stop problems in one simple fix. It will be available in June.

    I have the blog report ready to go, but I’m not going to report it until close to the time people can order it.

    So the .22 Panther is a wonderful choice.

    As for the new Webley Tomahawk, it isn’t the rifle I reported on in this blog. It’s an entirely new design from Turkey, and Pyramyd AIR has returned all the Webley Patriots of a similar design because they don’t meet their quality standards. So go slow there.

    If you can afford a TX 200, why don’t you want to hunt with it? It isn’t a handmade Holland & Holland. It’s just a nice air rifle. I’ve shot field target in hurricanes with mine! They don’t shrivel.


  55. Okay BB,

    I will just stick to my 177 cal and do both with it, FT and hunt with it.

    Last question. At 50 meters or more, which rifle will shoot better and at what caliber (177 or 22). RWS 34 Panther VS TX200 MK3.

    Thanks again


  56. Gino,

    The TX 200 has the edge over most spring rifles, so it will outshoot the Panther at 50 yards.

    Your requirements seem to have changed. Have you considered the RWS Diana 54 at all? It will shoot as well as the TX, and with less recoil.


  57. BB

    I am still going with the 177 for FT and I have reserved a TX200 MK3 walnut in 177 cal with scope and rings, ammo etc. at Pyramidair so that is sorted.

    I just miss the used 22 cal TX200 MK3 that I returned so I might get that one back to add to my collection or get something else. I did read and looked at the RWS54 but I have issues with a side lever set up and have not seen or fired that rifle so I am hesitant. The RWS 34 I will get but not until you have the base relaeased for the public.

    I am starting to collect good rifles and with your help I will get them all sorted so I wont waste too much effort and revenue.

    I really consider your experience and advices on these rifles. Any thoughts?

    Thank you again


  58. BB

    What caliber should I get the RWS 54? There is a used one to be had in 177 so I think I will sleep and decide when I wake up.

    How about the HC TX200 in 177 is the barrel same as the MK3 shrouded?

    But I know the RWS 54 will be a better choice.

    I need to decide by tonight or sleep on it and see which one.

    Thank you again


  59. Well BB, if Pyramid will get around the RMA items on my account I could have bought another rifle by now. So everything is on a stand still till they get the credit sorted and I can get another rifle.

    I am still waiting on the TX200 order in 177 cal but that wont be till the 16th of May.

    The waiting is killing me LMAO..


  60. BB

    Question on pref. will the two piece mount be of an advantage over the one piece mount other than positioning?

    Finaly got the RMA soted and they will ship 22 cal TX200 back tomorrow. Now the wait on the MK3 in 177 cal wont be too bad as long as I got my MK3 in 22 by next week.

  61. B.B.,
    I just wanted to let you know that I got my Diana 54 in last week and to tell you how happy I am with it. Of course I’m still waiting on the new Leapers scope base….Hint Hint. The lady at Pyramid Air say’s it will be avail. In July now….Yikes!

    I went ahead and mounted the Leapers 4-16×50 scope you recommended (w/Leapers one piece High Mount) just to see how bad the barrel droop problem was and also to see how accurately it would group. Needless to say the barrel droop was bad without the proper mount or base as it were….. However, at 20yrds. my second 3 shot string it put them all in a nice semi-round hole a little larger diameter than one .22 cal pellet with Zero felt recoil. Wow, you can’t ask for much better than that!

    I did notice however that the gun was extremely dry in operation. It sounds horrible during cocking and there’s some surface rust and weird scratches visible inside the loading port where the compression chamber moves back and forth. I prob won’t shoot it any more until I get it properly lubed. I’m thinking of sending it to Bob Werner (Charlie Da Tuna) for the proper lubrication and maybe even getting it Tuned while it’s there.

    Bill S.

  62. Bill S.,

    Your 54 sounds normal to me. All guns with the sliding compression chamber start out like yours with external scratches. Just shoot the gun and it will smooth out in time.

    The exterior of the compression chamber has nothing whatsoever to do with the rifle’s performance, anyway. What matters in what’s inside the chamber, and the blue piston seal takes care of that.


  63. Update as of 5/2008.


    Owning both calibers is a joy. My 177 cal has the 8-32X56 Leapers scope and is accurate as it can be.

    The 22 cal I will scope later as I have gotten 2 Airforce 4-16X50 that were both defective so I gave up on that brand.

    Both rifles are so accurate (with the 177 on the better side)and the heavier weight makes it stable period. Shooting springers on the light side is a bit challenging due to the jump when fired. The TX200 mk3 does not do that at all. Outdoors all you here is the internal mechanics with a thud sound and feel.

    I can share more info if needed.

    Thanks again

  64. B.B.,
    I do see your point. As long as the cylinder itself is smooth there shouldn’t be a problem. I guess it’s the thought of a now $632.00 new German air rifle with surface rust squeaking and honking during operation that gets me…not to mention it is very loud when fired.

    My question now is prob going to be a goofy one. I know you have a blog article waiting to be posted and I don’t want to spoil it but I need to ask you this:

    I wasn’t aware the new RWS Base was on the Pyramid Web Site already so I didn’t know what it looked like or how it worked. After seeing It for the first time It looks great and really well engineered. What I’ve got to ask is if I’m not going to be able to use any of my one piece Leapers 11mm mounts? It appears that it’s for Weaver type mounts only. Is this true?

    If so then which Weaver style mount(s) do you recommend for use on my 54 with the Leapers 4-16×50? I would like to place an order for them now so I won’t have to wait even longer after the new base is in stock at PA. Everybody will prob be ordering the same solution.

    Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

    Bill S.

  65. Bill S.,

    It’s too bad you don’t have a subscription to Shotgun News, because I wrote about this base in my column this month. Yes, you will need Weaver rings. The dovetail width of a Picatinney base is too wide for 11 mm dovetails.

    The base raises the scope higher, so a lower ring can be used. Get them now and you’ll have them when the base is ready.


  66. pB.B.,
    I don’t have a subscription but I do buy the Shotgun News from time to time. I haven’t picked up this months issue though. That publication used to be twice as big back in the day. My Dad used to get them.

    Is there a particular set of Weaver mounts you would suggest over others for application on my 54 with the new base?

  67. Bill S.,

    Because the new base does all the adjusting for you, I’d say get the cheapest set of four-screw scope rings you can find. Like most airgunners, I have little experience with Weaver rings, but so far they all seem well-made. I guess the cheaper rings are 3/8″ dovetail.


  68. B.B.,
    I understand what you mean about experience with Weaver rings. I have Zero hence I’m bugging you. Lol!

    Thanks so much for you help.

    Best Regards,
    Bill S.

    P.S. Why doesn’t Pyramid Air carry Theoben? They look really well made yet are on the expensive side. I like the Eliminator…

  69. B.B.,
    I don’t suppose Theoben USA would supply them to P.A. since they are the official importer. Oh well, I can’t help but drool while looking over the specs and pictures of the Theobens. I would love to look one over in person. What a shame…

    Anyway, how about FX of Sweden? Same situation?

  70. B.B.,
    Ok, this is going to be embarrassing for me to ask but I need help. I know that if you can’t shoot a TX200 fairly accurately you need to learn how to shoot. Problem is that I have shot more than most and shouldn’t be writing this. I’m prob going to ramble but I’m short on time this afternoon. Here goes:

    I’ve had my TX200 for about two months and have prob put 500 rounds through it. Early on it was like magic. I had no problem shooting one hole groups at 20 yards consistently. Now, I find myself getting from Great 1 hole groups then out to 3/4″ one’s. I’ve tightened the stock screws, added Lock-Tite and also checked and re-checked my scope screws. They are snug. BTW, It’s scoped with a Leapers 4-16x50AO with a Leapers One Piece Mt. Continuing, it seems like that sometimes it’s consistent and then it starts to move out. I’ll put 2, 3 and maybe four pellets in the same hole and then there will be some movement. At that point it will either put more rounds in the new holes or move back to the first hole with several pellets in it. Weird! It’s erratic but at the same time consistent. I try to hold it the same way and use the same “spot weld” for every shot. Any idea what in the world I’m doing wrong?

    Also, when it fires it is quiet but very Twangy. I can hear and feel through the stock a definite “Twang” instead of a solid knock. It has done this since the first time I shot it. Is this normal? Since I’ve never fired another TX200 except my own I don’t know what to expect.

    Many thanks and sorry for rambling,
    Bill S.

  71. Bill S.,

    I don’t think the twang has anything to do with it.

    Have you been shooting Crosman pellets without oiling them? They will lead the bore and must be cleaned out. That will be difficult because of the breech on the TX 200. You’ll have to use a short brush.

    What pellets are you using?

    I believe that you must be experimenting with holds which is causing a parallax problem. Also, I don’t know if you are using the artillery hold that the TX 200 needs. IOt isn’t as sensitive as other spring guns, but you can’t rest it on a sandbag and expect to hit anything.

    The fact that it putting two or three pellets into the same hole demonstrates the gun wants to shoot. Something is preventing it.

    Let’s go after this one step at a time.


  72. B.B.,
    Thanks for getting back with me. Sorry it’s taken a few days for me to reply.

    I’m using the artillery hold on soft pillows. I’ve tried holding it loosely with the forearm rested on my open palm and also with a slight grip on the sides with the pads of my fingers. The funny thing is that early on neither technique affected it. It might change the point of aim a little bit but it was consistent as long as you held it the same way again. Now there is inconsistency regardless.

    Do you think it might be something wrong with the scope?

    I ran out of Crossman Premiers so I’m using Crossman Premier Hollow Points and some RWS Meisterkugeln Match Pellets. I also tried some JSB Exacts (14.3’s) and it did the same thing with those too. **I wasn’t aware that it was necessary to lubricate Premiers for the TX200. I thought lubing was only needed when you’re shooting 800+ like my RWS 54 for example. I’ll have to check your pellet lube article again and see if I can track down the components.

    Back to the Twang: Regardless if this has anything to do with my accuracy problem does this sound like the normal firing cycle for a TX200 MK3? I would expect more of solid “Ka-Thunk” than a sharp “Twang” from this gun but it has done this since the first shot. But don’t get me wrong, I can surely live with it if that’s the norm. It’s a fine gun and obviously wants to shoot.

    BTW, for giggles I did rest the forearm directly on the pillows and it put them in the same hole….Most of the time. It was tempting to sight it in that way. LOL !

    Best Regards,
    Bill S.

  73. Bill S.,

    You didn’t mention that your TX 200 is a .22 in the first message. Now the twang does bother me.

    I would either get the gun looked at or consider taking it apart yourself. The twang is not the cause of inaccuracy, but I don’t like a twang in a gun as open and free as a .22 caliber TX with such a short barrel.

    Fortunately for you, a TX 200 is very easy to work on without a mainspring compressor. The mainspring is under very little precompression. However, you may still be under warranty, depending on where you bought the rifle, so you may want to send it back to the dealer.

    And of course velocity isn’t a problem, either. Not with a .22

    If the gun puts them into the same hole when shot off a pillow, that’s how you should be shooting it. Does it do that consistently?

    Nothing is wrong with the scope or you wouldn’t get any one-hole groups. Something is wrong with how you are shooting the gun.


  74. B.B.,
    I thought I mentioned the caliber…Sorry.

    I bought it from Pyramid Air. The 30 days is up of course but I do have a 1 year warranty through Air Arms. I’m afraid to take it apart myself due to lack of experience and suitable work area. My wife would have a fit if I broke it down on the kitchen table. I’ll prob. send it back to P.A.

    Since I’ve ran out of Crossman Premiers I’ve just ordered several boxes today and will test again when I get them in. It seems to like them over JSB’s.

    BTW, in your experience what pellet does the TX like best? In addition to Crossman Premiers I’ve tried the 14.3 JSB Exacts but not the 15.8’s. Any thoughts or recommendations on these and / or any other brands?

    I’d love to shoot it off the pillows but I’d like it to have the same POI as offhand.

    Best Regards,
    Bill S.

  75. Bill,

    I have zero experience with the TX 200 in .22 caliber. All I know is that the quality is just as good as the .177 rifle. I did test a BAM B40 in .22, though, and it was best with Premiers.

    I would try Premiers, the JSB 15.8-grain domes and perhaps Beeman Kodiaks, though they are a little heavy for the rifle.


  76. B.B.,
    I got a chance to try it again using Premiers, Benjamin Discovery’s, Gamo Match, JSB Exacts (14.3’s) and Kodiaks and I’m still having the consistency issue. Getting frustrated at this point….

    When I used the Kodiaks the “twang” got twice as loud. I also noticed that when using tighter seating pellets like the batch of Premiers I have it also makes for a louder than normal twang. All I know to do is to send it back to P.A. Any thoughts?

    Also, do you think it would be worth the extra shipping to send it back with the scope attached so they can test it under similar conditions?

    Bill S.

  77. BB
    I can email you a better blog report but here is quick report.

    Been awhile since I posted. I have been so busy practicing in my garage and cannot put the TX200’s down. I still owe you a report on my TX200’s so here you go.

    Let me start with the .22 cal TX200 MK3, it is just as good as the .177. The only thing I see is that the 22 kills prey on the spot and the 177 you need to place the shot to execute the quick kill.

    The differences are very minimal but I wind up picking up the .177 cal 9 times out of 10 when I shoot further due to the power but the .22 cal hits the mark more accurately on windy days accurately better than the 177 cal.

    Both calibers have unique traits. The 177 kicks a little harder than the 22 cal and I noticed that the 177 is a tad louder as well. Both will put pellets on the same hole as many times as you can shoot with a steady hand at any distance without the worries of how you hold it as long as you keep the same stance/grip technique religiously. The artillery hold “wink, wink”..

    The TX200 is so forgiving and simple to reload and never tiring like the break barrels. There are no seals that fall out etc.

    Trigger on the TX200 MK3 is so adjustable I have gone to all the positions and set it the way I wanted it. The triggers can be as light and dangerous as you want it but everyones preference is always different so my 177 is set at 1/4″ creep and 16oz of pull on the release. basically the trigger is set where my entire technique allows me to shoot more accurately for my pref.

    The 22 cal is set to the same creep at 1/4″ but has a little more tension than the 177 cal trigger. It just seems to shoot better/hit targets with a less sensitive trigger pull. Trigger adjustments are endless/infinite on the TX200 MK3.

    New owners will be surprised when they shoot over 3 thousand pellets and will notice the rifle performs way better than when new out of the box. Everything gets better when you shoot more often. Trigger smooths out, cocking gets even better and the over all feel just makes you smile each time.

    The over all weight is not bothering me as it makes it a more stable rifle to shoot it seems like coz shooting my friends Gamo CFX is a bit jumpy and springy on my cheek bones compared to the TX200 MK3.

    Both rifles I scoped with Leapers Swat scope Accushot with the 177 having the 8-32×56 illuminated and the 22 cal the 4-16×56 both perform great and are dead accurate and the ease of zeroing at any distance is a breeze with no tools needed. Get a solid mount it works well.

    My conclusion on both calibers is that you need both if you have the extra $$$ but the 177 will the do the job just as good as the 22 when hunting but the 22 always kills the prey on the spot and the 177 depends on the shot placement.

    I currently have both calibers and have no regrets. I sold all my PCP rifles as of last month and keeping these.

    FT events has never been so much fun until the TX200’s arrived in my hands. Looking at them is rewarding enough let alone shoot them.

    Which caliber is my favorite? The 177 as an all around rifle but I always hunt with the 22 cal. I take them both if I could.

    Sorry about the long reply BB.

    Thank you again

  78. Gino,
    Hey Buddy. How’s it going?

    Listen, please read the previous few messages between B.B. and myself and tell me what you think of my situation.

    As I described for B.B., my TX200 in .22cal is making a very noticeable “Twang” when it fires. It has done this since I pulled it out of the box new. Anyway, not only can you hear and feel it when you shoot it but persons standing beside it can hear it also. I’ve had it about two months and have prob put about 300-400 rounds through it and always used mid weight pellets like Crossman Premiers. Since B.B. has a .177 cal. version and not a .22 I thought I would ask you to describe the firing cycle for me. I would expect solid Ka-thunk from a rifle of this quality.

    Also, even using the Artillery hold I’m having some consistency issues with accuracy. It wants to shoot but will move off at times. Again, please read the previous correspondence and give me your thoughts.

    Bill S.

  79. Bill s.

    Email me and we can talk about the issues on your 22 cal. I can call you no worries. I have over 4thousand rounds on my TX200 MK3 22 cal and still as accurate as ever.





    Yes you can use it and even modify my comments if need be. I cant thank you enough.

    Here is a story I will never forget regarding the TX200 MK3’s. The day was calm (70 deg F)and no wind at all so I took the rifles to the firing range with my buddies and got a few onlookers that challenged me, They said “who takes an air gun to a firing range”.. So I said lets us see who can group better using their rifles and both my TX200’s cal 22 and 177 on a 50 yard target and guess who won? Yup the TX200 MK3’s againts their rifles LMAO this includes zeroing as we take turns and my TX200’s took 3 rounds to do. They can’t even group inside 2″ and blamed it on the advantage of using the swat scopes againts their fixed scopes.
    Then they kept shooting my rifles and they all complained so when it was my turn they bowed down in defeat as they looked on their spotting scopes with 10 rounds so close I was amazed myself.

    Both my friends and strangers now have a different perspective on the air guns of today. In the end I mentioned the artillery hold and told them that you can shoot an air gun at home for free anytime in small areas and can’t do that on a rim/center fire gun and then I gave them all the Pyramid air website so they may comment if they see my posts. LMAO

    My take on that experience is that to each his/her own and so be it if the toys/rifles/guns happen to be non powder driven, they are all projectiles I say and all give us joy and relaxation as hobbies.

    BB Thank you again for everything I am ready to compete in my local events, I just have to find them HAHAHAHA.



  80. BB

    One last thing. On windy days and when I say windy 5 to 10 mph winds at the slightest. Let me just tell everyone that it is so hard to shoot and now I really see how challenging an air gun can be on days like that.

    I tried to consistently group better at 50 yards and keeping it inside a 2″ circle is so difficult and I was on a bench that windy day. I now have new respect for air gun folks that compete in FT/any event in conditions like that. I was really challenged and stayed for 3 hours enjoying it.

    PHEEEW !


  81. well the cocking shoe on my .177 just cracked in two pieces and I see why. The clearance is 1/8 th of an inch back too far. The quick fix is to shave the new cocking shoe a little but if it breaks another I have to send her in for repairs. The cocking arm wont click back freely it has a bind to it when I swapped with my .22 cal cocking shoe.

  82. Gino,

    There should be some clearance on the cocking shoe, rather than no clearance. It needs that clearance so it doesn’t get banged by the piston. I know you have figured that out, but make sure the replacement has some clearance.


  83. Hi again,

    Thanks so much Mo! Much appreciated! I didn’t expect a reply so fast! Or at all for a few days atleast! I didn’t know the velocities had anything to do with the actual ft/lb of the spring. Just because I see everyone talking about them using different pellets and all that.

    Well, since you’re here, would you mind helping me out right this set up?

    After I pay up my next credit statement. I plan to buy the “Leapers Accushot 4-16x56AO Scope, Illuminated Mil-Dot Reticle, 1/8 MOA, 30mm Tube” with that scope, on the TX200 MK III, I would need the “Leapers Accushot 1-Pc Mount w/30mm Rings, High, 11mm Dovetail” correct?

    Thanks in advance for any reply!

    – Maka

  84. My pleasure Maka.

    The velocities advertised are usually using the lightest pellets available. Spring Piston rifles usually have the best power when shooting light pellets. However heavier pellets tend to be more stable at distances.

    The mount you mentioned is compatible with the scope you chose. However its comparatively a big scope. Its possible that the length may hinder you while loading a pellet. I have a friend who uses a 14.6″ scope on his TX200 and finds it a little difficult while trying to load pellets quickly.

    Another thing to keep in mind would be the combined weight. That should include the rifle, scope, mounts etc.

    What would you primarily use the rifle for?


  85. Thanks Mo,

    I intend to use it mainly for pest control and plinking really. I’ve heard about it getting in the way of the chamber too. But it doesn’t bother me that I’d have to take alittle extra time to load it. I’m already slow loading with my break barrels, just because I’m very careful with everything and I’m always afraid to damage anything I spend more than $10 on (HAHAHA!). The weight is no issue to me. I’m a pretty big guy, I have all the confidence in the world that the weight won’t be an issue, only way that would make me worry is if it was 20 lbs which I’m sure it’d only end up at 13lbs TOPS. As long as the scope doesn’t interfer with me actually getting my hands in there at all, it’s fine with me. I was thinking about that Mini swat that Tom suggested, but I think it just would be too small for my liking.

    – Maka

  86. Maka,

    Looks like we have a winner then 🙂

    I’m sure you will enjoy the rifle. I’d get a .22 if I were to use it for hunting as it would give you a small levy with pellet placement.

    But the TX200 is a phenomenal gun in either calibre. You wont regret the purchase. Everybody would agree to that one! Especially B.B 🙂


  87. Mo,

    NO doubt! I only have one more question and that’s on cleaning.

    People telling me to get AGE bore cleaner, and then MP-5 oil. I haven’t come across a GOOD rod that is cheap. That fits .22 Cal. But I wanted to know. How does cleaning of the TX200 MK III go? Do you go in through the muzzle to the breech?

    I’m very new to all this. I’ve only had my break barrel for 2 months and haven’t needed a cleaning. So I wanted to know how to go about cleaning the TX200 MK III. Not gonna risk damaging a $630 Air Rifle.

    So do I pull a cleaning pad with AGE bore Cleaner (diluted with hot water, but how much cleaner with water?) through the muzzle to the breech with a rod and do that with a few more pads and then pull dry pads through a few times until clean and then MP-5 a pad and pull through to protect?

    Also on the walnut. What can I use to it? Is any old walnut “safe” cleaner fine with this stock?

    I want to know all I can know before hand, so I don’t make any mistakes and have to bother anyone with any more advise and possibly have it fixed in the future. I want to be able to do all I can do, myself.

    I can’t thank you enough for your quick and full replies! Answering all the questions I have is MUCCCCHHHHHHHHH appreciated!

    P.S. – I planned on the .22 from the beginning 😛 I have a .177 break barrel Gamo Big Cat. I like it, but I definately want something more high end. I heard alot about the ProSport. But I find the TX200 MK III more appealing. Not only price-wise.

    – Maka

  88. Maka,

    I can see how excited you are 🙂

    As far as cleaning the barrel goes, air rifle barrels dont require cleaning often, if at all! lead fouling may appear over the years depending on the pellets you use.

    I suggest you dont use a rod thru the muzzle as you stand a risk of damaging the crown. Thats the issue with fixed barrel rifles. Cleaning is easy with a break barrel. Pull thru’s are your best bet here.

    I haven’t used the bore cleaner you mentioned. But knowing the TX200, I doubt whether you will have to do a thorough clean. A simple wipe thru process should be ample in most cases.

    Occasionally rubbing the stock with Walnut Oil should keep it pristine. But dont overdo it.

    You can find more info on cleaning your barrel here:


    and here:


    .22 should be perfect for you! I personally prefer the TX200 Carbine to the Prosport too.

    Don’t worry over asking questions. You have no idea how much help is just a holler away! 🙂

  89. I forgot to mention: You needn’t worry much about lead fouling either as the TX200 in .22 will usually be in the sub 1000fps range with most pellets.

    Avoid fancy pellets as most are so light and fits loose, tending to damage a spring piston rifle.


  90. Mo,

    Thanks! That clears up alot. And if I may…. HELL YEAH I’M EXCITED!!!

    I do however have more questions now (hehe, sorry!)

    Okay, I will be using (or trying out these first) “Beeman Field Target Special .22 Cal, 14.6 Grains, Domed, 200/Tin” and “Crosman Copperhead Field Hunting .22 Cal, 14.3 Grains, Pointed, 175/Tin” in the .22 cal TX200 MK III.

    I have read through the material you gave me, but I’m still unsure as it doesn’t specify about the TX200 of course and as even a novice like me knows that all guns are totally different, even if they’re the same type and brand of gun.

    So, would you happen to know if the “Beeman Zip Cleaning Kit” would work with the TX200 MK III? I read both comments on the cleaning kit (only flexible cleaning rod I can find.) Also it says something about it needing to go into the breech. How do you go from the breech in the TX200 MK III exactly? Would you recommend anything? Specifically for the TX200 MK III, on the whole cleaning thing. $$ isn’t a huge issue, but I am very stingy with my $$ (Aren’t we all? If not just a bit?) So I’d like to save as much as possible without cutting corners.

    I also have seen the quick felt cleaning pellets at my local sportsmens warehouse in .22 Cal (the ones you shoot through after loading.) But I read the manual that is on the top right of the TX200 MK III page and it said never to shoot them through without a pellet behind it. Any thoughts on this issue? The MP-5 oil seems like it’s a must for all so I might buy that at a later date or find it at my local stores.

    Also, is the barrel on the Tx200 MK III, steel? I guess all this depends on the type of pellets I’ll be using. I’m leaning alot towards the “Crosman Copperhead Field Hunting .22 Cal, 14.3 Grains, Pointed, 175/Tin” due to the comments/reviews and from my experience with those in .177 Cal in my Gamo.

    I will try others if I’m not very satisfied, but those are very available at my local store as well, and quite a bit cheaper than here. I’m going to end up spending about $900 on all the materials + rifle + scope and etc. Almost maxing out one credit card (AHAHAH.) But I digress. Thanks so much for even more of your help! I shall leave your name in my comment/review when I get the gun! Which should be tommorrow! That’s if I get all the info I need to make an informed decision (mostly due to the fact I don’t want to pay extra shipping at later dates.)

    I have work in about 6 hours, I need my sleep. Good night and I look forward to more of your great advise, tommorrow!

    – Maka (forgive me if I double post, I waited quite a while for the comment to show up and it hasn’t)

  91. Maka,

    I haven’t used any of the pellets you mentioned 🙁

    Somehow, Crosman Premiers (14.3 grains) and JSB Exacts (14.3/15.8) always excel in most of the rifles. There is news that Crosman is discontinuing the Premiers that come in cardboard boxes of 625 pellets. However Pyramyd AIR has them in stock now.

    I’m not too keen about the Beeman zip cleaning kit as if you use bore compound with it, the pull cable may snap, leaving you in a very uncomfortable situation.

    You can use the cable for pull thru wipes, which should be enough for a TX200.

    The cleaning may also be done from the muzzle in, provided you’re very very careful. Frequent cleaning from the muzzle end will wear out the rifling there and may affect the rifle’s performance. Also, improper cleaning may damage the crown which will invariably affect the accuracy.

    The TX200 has to be cocked, to clean from the breech end. Be very careful and always hold the cocking lever with one hand while inserting the cleaning material at the breech.

    Usually what I do, is to insert the cable through the muzzle, take it out thru the breech, loop it over a small piece of wipe and pull out thru the muzzle. Do not repeat using the same wipe. Keep replacing the wipes till it starts coming out relatively clean.

    I said relatively clean, cause no matter how many times you pull the wipe thru, they always come out a li’l colored.

    DO NOT use felt pellets with a spring piston rifle. They simply do not offer enough resistance to the piston and will damage the rifle. Exactly the way a dry fire would. Felt pellets are intended for PCPs, Pump Action or CO2 powered guns.

    Some people load a cleaning pellet, then a lead pellet and fire. I have never tried this, and would urge you not to try it either. Others also try stacking several felt pellets and then shooting. Thats another risk you really dont want to take with the TX200.

    The TX200 does have a steel barrel. So a bronze brush would be ideal.

    Now all this is assuming you NEED to clean it. Most often, you wouldn’t. Also, air rifle barrels do clean themselves with constant use as the pellet passes through.

    You may find this interesting:


    Glad to help.


  92. Maka,

    I’ve also invited fellow readers to try and answer your question on the specific pellets and cleaning equipment you mentioned. I’m sure there’re many who’ve used them.

    You should have the required answers shortly. 🙂


  93. Maka,

    You’ve received some spot on advice from Mo. I’d like to reiterate some of his great advice.

    Your gun doesn’t need to be cleaned. Shoot it. Put 1,000 shots through your new gun with a variety of pellets. Your first two pellets choices are ok. I don’t like copperheaded pellets but if theose crosman copperheads worked in your gamo try them in your new gun. Copper is a soft metal and many people have had problems with them fouling barrels.

    I would second Mo’s pellet advice and suggest you also try crosman premiers (in the cardboard box) and jsb exacts. Especially jsb exacts (try both lighter wieghts of jsb exacts but I wouldn’t suggest shooting the jsb 18 grains in your springer).

    Forget about buying MP-5 oil at this time. Shoot your gun. IF accuracy falls off in your gun after 5,000 or so pellets, clean the gun then. DO NOT USE CLEANING PELLETS EVER IN THE TX 200 MKIII. When you do clean your gun, follow the advice from B.B. in the links that Mo provided. A zip cleaning kit is a waste of money in my opinion. A zip line isn’t able to scrub a barrel like a brass bore brush loaded with jb bore paste which is what is necessary to scrub a fouled barrel.

    Enjoy your new gun and please keep us informed about you’re experiences with this fine gun. Please leave your comments on the current comments section so we can all see them. Here a link to the current comments:


    Look forward to hearing from you.


  94. Maka,

    I was going to tell you what Kevin did which is spot on advise. I also am inviting you to become a part of our blog and all the info and great people out here. Come on down at /blog//

  95. Ya'll,

    Thanks so much for all the great advice!

    I am looking at the "Airgun Express 36" .22 & .25 Caliber Coated Dewey Rod" now, it's expensive, but if worth it, definately not a waste. No one reviewed it so I'm kinda iffy on that one. But we'll see.

    About the CP pellets in the box, the only one in .22 cal is domed and I heard really bad reviews about people getting .177 and .20 pellets in a .22 cal Marked box…. soooo I'm going to avoid that right now.

    Also, with the JSB's I heard some somewhat bad things about QC on them. Many being deformed and skirts out of shape. Plus the price is really out there on these, the risk is a bit too high.

    One of the reviewers really went into depth about his pellet experinces and tests. He rated the " Crosman Copperhead Field Hunting .22 Cal, 14.3 Grains, Pointed, 175/Tin" best accuracy or tied with another, and cheaper than most. Also he talked about good penetration. With lower powered Air rifles, I've heard pellets have bounced off pests at certain times.

    I don't plan to clean it much. I did plan on maybe 2,500 shots and then a clean. Plus I live in Washington State, it's VERY VERY wet here, so rust is what I'm worried about. I don't plan on keeping my rifle outside, but during the summer, with all the rain and 90 degree heat, it gets pretty humid, even in the house.

    I have a small question. Is it okay to use a a Stiff Nylon bore brush with the dewey .22 rod I mentioned earlier in this post?

    I'm alittle confused, by current comments, I take it you mean the main blog and most recent blog page? That's the link I'm seeing in your posts. But I thank you all for your invite and advice!!! Thanks a bunch!!!

    I will indeed keep you all updated with my experiences and I will eventually try all pellets. I don't have the time to do all that research that the reviewer on those .22 cal pellets did, but I will let you know which turn out fine with the gun!

    I felt that this was the section for all my questions, experiences and etc. Due to it being about the TX200 MK III. Perhaps even someone new to it like me will want to know the answers to the questions I asked. I even read all the comments, each and everyone!

    – Maka

  96. Maka,

    CPs that come in the cardboard box are known for their uniformity and hence consistent performance. I’m surprised that you read bad reviews about them! The mixed pellets could have been an isolated incident.

    JSB’s I believe are the only other easily available pellets that are sorted at the factory which will reflect in the price. I’ve used them for years and have never had a complaint. Almost all the guns love this pellet! Again, I’m surprised you found conflicting reviews.

    The barrel wont rust unless the rifle is stored for extended periods in damp conditions. Slightly lubed pellets may help you with this more than cleaning would. Also, all springers shoot a bit of oil into the barrel every time you shoot. This is the lube in the chamber. So dont worry about barrel rust in a well used rifle.

    You can use a nylon brush, provided you can find one that attaches to the rod. Nylon brushes are usually used with brass barrels owing to them being softer than the rifling.

    What Kevin n Mr B. meant was that you can post questions at the latest blog entry. This makes it easy for most readers to reply. Some us get alerts when a new entry is posted on an old blog, but not all. Posting at the latest blog will increase the number of replies you receive.

    I know you must be excited to get your hands on the gun as soon as you can! Good Luck and Safe Shooting!


  97. Mo,

    Yeah, most of the CP's are all GOOD quality, but it's the QC that people complained about. The mixed pellets seemed to happen 3 times (to the different reviewers, it seemed.)

    I will try the JSB, would you recommend the 15.8 grain or the 14.3 grain? The price is cheaper in the heavier pellet, why is that exactly? Are they a different type of pellet (other than the grain?)

    Yeah, I don't plan to put it down at all. I plan to shoot maybe 100-200 pellets through the rifle every week! I guess I'll go for the 5000 pellet cleaning plan? (sounds corny when I read it back to myself, like I'm getting this all planned out and set up)

    About the bore brush, would you go with "Brownells Bronze Bore Brush, Rifle, .22 Cal" or the "Beeman Bore Brush .22 (bronze)"

    As for the loop attachments, the thread says 5-40 (Dewey .22 Caliber Dewey Loop.) Will it fit the "Airgun Express 36" .22 & .25 Caliber Coated Dewey Rod?" The loop page says it fits the dewey rods PA carries.

    The "Dewey Nylon Bore Brush, Rifle, .22 cal." on the other hand will fit the rod perfectly, it being dewey as well, of course. The "Brownells Bronze Bore Brush, Rifle, .22 Cal" on the other hand fits the rod 8-32 thread. But I heard something about "Phosphor bronze" being bad for some types, especially if some chemicals have been in the bore at earlier times, like residue leftover. Is this type of bronze bad?

    I understand about the blog now. I just thought that users and fans of the TX200 MK III would frequent this popular amazing rifle. I was sure I would get replies after some wait, but I'm surprised I got such a welcoming and great advice, SO FAST!

    I had some unexpected things happen with my credit card. They won't clear my balance for 24-48 hours, reguardless if I payed my credit card off there (Navy Federal, which is where the card is located.) and I now know it still takes 24-48 hours reguardless if the $$'s already in.

    I will need to wait to the end of the week now because I will not be here to pick up and sign for the package if and when it comes.


    – Maka

  98. Maka,

    Nevertheless do give premiers a go. You never know how it turns out. 🙂

    I would recommend the 14.3 over the 15.8. For some reason, they’re a tad bit more accurate for me. Buy a tin of each and try em out to see which suits your particular rifle. You can take advantage of Pyramyd Air’s offer for this.

    Your plan’s not corny at all. Its like running in a car. The future performance depends on how you use it the first few weeks! The same’s true for guns! The 5000 shot cleaning plan is the best!

    I’m afraid I can’t answer you on the brushes. I haven’t used either. But since the description says that the Beeman will fit the Dewey, go with that, I guess.

    Phosphor bronze is an alloy of tin, copper and phosphorous. It significantly increases the strength and has low co-efficient of friction. For the same reason, once upon a time, barrels used to be made of the same metal. But I believe the other brush is also phosphor bronze, though not mentioned separately. I could be wrong here.

    Don’t worry about the wait. It will just make you appreciate the rifle more! 🙂


  99. Maka,

    The dewey NYLON COATED one piece cleaning rod is the only one to use in an airgun (ideally entered from the breech of the gun). If you’re concerned about rust, you can put a light coat of protectant inside the barrel with a dewey rod and patch but like Mo said, if you shoot your gun regularly you won’t need it. If you do want to put a light coat of protectant inside the barrel I would recommend using either Tetra Gun Lubricant or Ballistol. I’m not a fan of MP5. In your humid climate store your gun horizontally and not in any type of sealed case. Let the gun breathe. Do not store your gun in a foam lined gun case. This will create rust faster than anything else you could do including leaving it outside in the weather.

    IF you ever need to clean your barrel, a nylon brush’s bristles are not stiff enough to scrub the fouling from your rifled barrel. You need a bronze brush (brass is second best) coated with jb bore paste (please read B.B.’s barrel cleaning articles).

    You seem convinced about what is the best pellet based on one mans opinion in his gun. So be it. I will say that no two guns are alike, velocities differ in same models and the most accurate pellet at short distance probably isn’t going to be the most accurate pellet at long range IN THE SAME GUN. I must disagree with the opinion that jsb’s have a quality control issue. These are among the best pellets when judging qc. Don’t mistake quality control for damage in shipping. JSB’s are pure lead pellets (one of the reasons they’re so popular) and are therefor soft. Some damage can occur in shipping but is usually limited to very few pellets. Those airgunners that complain about a few damaged pellets in shipping usually go back to their hard pellets and never learn how accurate their airgun can be with a good pellet. If you’re a good golfer I bet you’re using a soft cover golf ball rather than a hard cover for the benefits it produces. First I’ve heard of .20 cal, .177 cal and .22 cal pellets arriving in the same crosman premier box. Maybe it happened. I can’t give you a good estimate on how many orders of crosman premiers I’ve received, but its been alot, and I’ve never had this problem.

    Try lots of pellets to find the one that shoots best at short range in your gun and the pellet that shoots best at long range.

    I will leave you with one last tidbit of my experience. In over 20 airguns of all types, I’ve never had one that liked a pointed pellet. Even the crosman copperhead field hunting pellets. I have a supertuned fwb 124 that is the least fussy gun I own as far as pellet selection and it can’t group with any pointed pellet. I was curious about this and had a lot of dialogue online with other airgunners (many with a vast amount of experience) as to why they couldn’t group with pointed pellets either. The common belief (unscientific but extensively tested by these airgunners) was that if the point isn’t manufactured centered on the pellet skirt or not seated properly in a gun or both, that it cannot stablize in flight like a domed pellet can (a domed pellet like the crosman premiers and jsb exacts). Hope you gun loves the crosman copperhead field hunting pellets.

    Please report back to us on the current comments section. The link that has been provided to you a couple times will take you to the article of the day. At the bottom of that article click on comments and you will have joined the current discussion in progress. Look forward to hearing about your new gun.


  100. Mo and Kevin,

    Well, that’s the thing about PA’s system. It’s very itchy. You have to actually figure out how the system works before hand. Or the system will play tricks with your number of tins you want and of what kind.

    As long as I can stay in ATLEAST .2″ consistently I’m fine with that pellet. So I will try just 2 for now. I do NOT want to go over my credit limit on this one card as I only have one more after that.

    I will stick with the Copperheads and the “JSB Diabolo Exact Jumbo Express .22 Cal, 14.3 Grains, Domed, 500/Tin”

    You guys have alot of experience with the JSB’s and stand by them. I will see how they go. I will get 4 of the JSB and just 1 of the Copperhead for now. Because I can always get more of the copperhead. My local store carries them frequently.

    I will continue to post here until I actually get the rifle and get to experience it! Thanks so much for all your help guys! For now, it seems I am all out of questions. I have saved all your advice to a notepad and I will look over it for the week and make a final decision. Thanks to all of you who really helped me out!

    – Maka

  101. Maka,

    The pellet ordering process is quite simple actually. You will have to order 4 tins. The lowest priced tin will be free to you. So if you buy two tins of 14.3JSB and 2 of 15.8, You will get one tin of 15.8 free. Simple yeah?

    Moreover, the ordering system will prompt you to select a fourth tin so that you dont assume that the system will select the free tin for you.

    Are you talking about a 2″ group or a .2″ group? If its 2″ you’re after, pretty much any pellet will do it in your TX200. I’m pretty sure you’re gonna come back and complain about your groups not shrinking below 1″ in a while. 🙂 That’s the magic of the TX200 and that’s when pellet selection will come into play. So good luck trying to satisfy yourself with 2″ groups.

    Looking forward to hearing about the experience! You know where to post.


  102. Mo,

    Yes, it seems simple. Not sure if it was because I kept hitting update when adding new pellets without hitting “Continue shopping” button. It kept totally removing pellets from my cart each time I hit update without changing the quantities. That’s why I was getting a bit fustrated.

    I meant .2″ not 2″ I hope I wrote that right. I plan to shoot almost exclusively at 30 yards and if anymore than that, 45 TOPS.

    I have done what you talked about with the tin system. I went with 2 of the 14.3 JSB and 2 of the box’d dome CP. So I get one JSB free. I will see how it goes.

    Also, thanks to Kevin earlier about the no case for the TX200 MK III, it definately ended up saving me quite a bit of $$. Enough for 1 more box of the CP’s. Thanks again!

    Like always, thanks Mo for starting off all this help I’m getting. I will not get back to doing my taxes!

  103. Maka,

    Sounds like you have placed your order but you can change it if you decide to.

    My apologies if I wasn’t clear on my advice. I think you should have a hard case to transport your gun. Just don’t keep the gun in the foam case for storage in your home. Get the hard case when you want to take it somewhere, the range, your friends home, etc. i would strongly recommend that you get four different kinds of pellets initially (take advantage of PA”s buy 3 get one free). Why have 2 tins of one kind of pellet that your gun may not like? Get 4 different kinds. I vote that you try Beeman Field Targets and RWS Superdomes, Both weights of JSB exacts and your copperheads (if you insist).


  104. Kevin,

    I have not ordered. I want to order all at once to get the free shipping. That’s why I kind of wanted to get the expensive pellets with the expensive pellets, just so I get that one free, while still getting free shipping. Killing 2 birds with 1 stone.

    I had a question about the pre-ordering. If I were to have the pre-order on my order, would the item that was pre-ordered have no shipping fee, along with it coming at the in-stock date specified? How does this thing work exactly?

    The RWS Superdomes are out of stock till about march 2rd. Some of the other items on my list are out of stock at the very moment. So that’s what I’m curious about now. Just how it works, not on actual info on in-stock dates.

    Oh and on the case issue. I have one case, not sure if it’s big enough (with the scope on) to fit the TX200 vertically. For sure horizontally. But I don’t intend to take it out much. Just to the range once to sight in and then home for the rest of it’s years until it needs to sight in again (if I decide to move the scope or change pellets, etc.)

    Oh! and one more question. Because this rifle cannot be Bipod’d (sorry, I made that up), what is the next best way to keep it stable while in a prone position?

    – Maka

  105. Maka,

    As far as the “pre-order on your order and no shipping fee along with it coming at the in stock date etc.” please call Pyramyd AIR and find out their policy. I do not work for Pyramyd AIR. I’m merely an addicted airgunner like you will soon become. You may want to try another pellet instead of the RWS Superdomes rather than stall the shipment of your entire order for one tin of pellets.

    As long as you have a hardcase for transporting that fine scoped gun you’ll be ok. If you don’t the cost of the hard case that PA has is nominal.

    The best way to keep stable in the prone position. I like this article but there are many opinions. Google “prone shooting” if you don’t have any books on the subject. Here’s the article:



  106. Maka,

    Go through these articles:





    This will give you the necessary insight on how to choose a good pellet.


  107. BB,

    Does Pyramyd AIR have a retail storefront where I can go look at a TX200 in person? I posted that question on their website already, but received no reply. I live in the Pittsburgh area, so a trip to the Cleveland area would be no big deal.

    Alternately, can you think of a dealer within 100 miles of Pittsburgh who do carry the TX200? I like to see things before I buy them.

    No other dealers in the area carry any sort of selection of airguns beyond the usual Daisy/Crosman/etc.



  108. Russ,

    Pyramyd AIR does not yet have a storefront, but they will be moving to a larger place this year. There they will have a store.

    However, you can call and make arrangements to visit them, as long as they know you are coming. The person to make arrangements with is either Patrick or Aerial in advance, so they know when you are coming. Remember, they sell a lot of guns every day and you want to be certain they have a TX200 in stock in the caliber you want, just in case.


  109. I own both calibers on the TX200 and use Crossman Premiers in a box on both rifles and they are as accurate as can be with same hole shots.

    The TX200 does not need any cleaning in just a few thousand rounds if you use Crossman premiers it will clean the barrel as you use it.

  110. Hi all,

    Looks like nobody has touched this one since March. Nothing like clawing back open an old wound. 🙂 Tons of great info here, as usual.

    Let me apologise in advance for running long…

    I have read everything I can get my hands on about the TX200's… probably because that's about all the action I can take until I save up a little more dough. I was originally hard sold on the HC, but the more I read, the more I bounce back and forth between it and the MKIII.

    I didn't realize until reading one of B.B.'s comments that the HC does not have a shrouded barrel. All the pictures I've seen suggest the same barrel for both MKIII and HC, minus a few inches on the latter. I like that bull barrel look. Can anyone please confirm that the HC does indeed NOT come with a shrouded barrel? Thanks.

    Living in the city, I need a relatively quiet report (although I'm shooting a GAMO Big Cat right now, so I guess anything quieter than that is gravy… neighbors haven't complained yet). I use it for plinking and small game hunting, out to around 50 yards. 177 caliber is a must, since my stucco house won't survive a .22 blast. I shoot mostly Crossman Premiers and Beeman Crow Magnums.

    Here I sit, deliberating between two seemingly perfect guns, searching for the factor that will sway me one direction or the other. I don't crawl around in the underbrush or go on day trips, so bulk-wise, a shorter barrel just means marginally lighter to me, not significantly less cumbersome. A few more pounds of cocking effort doesn't bother me, and the shorter barrel doesn't seem to affect accuracy from what I've read. So I've narrowed it down to balance (HC wins) vs. sound volume (MKIII wins), and even those don't mean a whole lot. I usually lean/rest on something, and again, anything quieter than the Big Cat is gravy. What am I missing? I'm probably over thinking this purchase, but it's a big expense, and until I've saved up a few more pennies, that's all I can do.

    Any more insight – in addition to the hundreds of articles and reviews I've already read – is much appreciated. I know nobody will be able to say, "oh, thanks for the background info, Orin – the gun for you is…" but I still have this uncomfortable feeling that I'm missing vital information. Yes, I am obsessing. I'll stop now.

    One last question: has anyone ever used the Crow Magnums with a TX? With my Big Cat, they tend to be the perfect marriage of knock-down power and accuracy (out to about 40 yards), without stepping up to a .22. Crossman premiers seem to be more popular with TX's… in fact, I don't think I've seen a single comment/review with TX and Crow Magnums in the same sentence. Are they too heavy?


    – Orin

  111. Thanks B.B. So the barrel is shrouded to appear the same, but just doesn't really have any silencing effect on the report. Got it.

    Now I just need to be assured that the HC is NOT louder than my Big Cat, and that the extra few inches of barrel on the MKIII doesn't cause a balance concern, and I'll be perfectly happy with either purchase (probably whatever is in stock in walnut at the EXACT moment I scrape up the cash). 🙂

    – Orin

  112. Orin,

    It's been many years since I last tested a Hunting Carbine. At the time I compared it to a regular TX, and it was louder. But the TX was the quietest gun on the market, and is still quiet today.

    The HC wasn't excessively noisy, so I suppose it won't be noisier than a Big Cat. Also, there are no balance issues with the HC. Get it, if that's what you want.


  113. A few questions on putting together a complete package for the MKIII:

    What are the advantages/disadvantages of the beech stock verses walnut?

    How does the left hand version differ from the right hand one?

    You recommended the Leapers 3-12x44AO Swat Mini – is that still your top choice? Any reason you didn't select the full size Leapers 3-12x44AO Swat (it's about 3" longer, adjustments are 1/8" instead of 1/4" at 100yds, and it has an illuminated reticle)? The mini is now also out with an illuminated reticle; any thoughts on that version?

    What brand mounts and rings, one or two piece mounts, and what height rings, would you recommend for the 3-12×44 size scope and would they be the same for the mini and full size?
    Would medium rings work? I'd prefer the scope to be as close to the barrel as possible unless there is some other reason to go with high rings.

  114. Beech is both harder and heavier than walnut. It also warps less, It doesn't have the same figure in the grain as walnut, which many people think is attractive about walnut.

    A left hand stock is optimized for the ergonomics of holding the rifle on the left shoulder. Right is the same/. Pick the one that suits you best. The action of the gun does not change. So the loading port and sliding compression chamber lock still favors the right-handed shooter.

    The Leapers scope is a good scope for the price, but there are others that are just as good. I also recommended a Bushnell 6-18 Trophy.

    You DO NOT want 1/8" clicks on an airgun scope. At 10 meters it will take 80 of them to move the pellet strike one inch.

    Always use two-piece rings whenever possible for greater mounting flexibility. You can use inexpensive rings with a TX, but I do recommend getting scope caps with 4 screws. Medium rings should work with the scope mentioned in your comment.


  115. Thanks. I spoke to someone in sales at Pyramid and he was pushy, impatient and hung up on me when I told him I didn't want to place the order immediately – and wasn't able to get all my questions answered. Can you recommend someone there in sales who enjoys helping customers and who is knowledgeable?

    The sales guy claimed that the walnut was heavier and more durable than beech but that may have been because they only had the left hand version of the MKIII in walnut. He couldn't/wouldn't tell me if they could be ordered from the factory in beech. Do you know if Beech is available in a left hand stock? Beech is about $60 less and I don't care about looks so much as function.

    Does a longer scope like the 14.8" Bushnell 6-18 Trophy get in the way of loading quickly? Bushnell also makes a Trophy in 4-16×40 that is only 12.6" long. The Leapers 3-12×44 is only 10.6" long in the Swat mini with mildot (and is available w/or without illuminated reticle). An illuminated reticle seems useful in low light but Pyramid for some reason stopped carrying the mini version with the illuminated reticle? Any other scope recommendations? I was looking for a good compromise between size/weight and power/light gathering capability.

    I guess 80 clicks/inch would be a bit frustrating – I'll stick with scopes with 1/4" adjustments. Can you suggest 30mm medium rings that work well with the 11mm dovetail on the MKIII?

    You recommended getting scope caps with 4 screws but I don't know what you mean by that. What are scope caps and why with 4 screws?

  116. Scope jargon? Please read this article:


    This article is about scoping a TX200, which should explain a lot of things for you.

    Beech wood is both stronger and heavier than walnut. Always has been. You can Google it if you like.

    It appears that beech is not available in left hand stocks for this model.

    The 6-16X40 Bushnell Trophy is a one-inch scope. Why are you looking at 30mm rings?

    You need one-inch rings for a one-inch scope tube.

    Scopes do not "gather" light.
    They transmit it. So what you want is the brightest scope you can get for a reasonable price. Look for large objective lenses, and good coatings.

    The illuminated reticle is not needed unless you will be hunting at dawn or dusk. I own more than ten illuminated scopes and I never use the illumination–EVER!

    Selecting a scope for someone else is very risky. You might not like the same things I do.

    You want a good scope for the money and one that is bright enough, get a Hawke 3-9X40:


    It uses standard one-inch two-piece rings. And it will fit well on a TX 200, as long as it is mounted correctly.


  117. I purchased an Air Arms TX200 Mark III in .177 about 4 months ago, and wanted to relate my experiences with it.

    The gun was out of stock when I made the final decision, so after about two months of waiting, when it finally arrived I was looking forward with much anticipation to firing the TX . Alas, I could not cock the rifle.

    I could pull back the underlever easily enough, but it wouldn't set the automatic safety. When I pressed the antibeartrap button, I would have to pull back the underlever to unlatch the ratchet then counter act the force of the spring as I returned the underlever to the latch. I repeated this process several times to no avail, it still wouldn't cock. I called the good people at the PA tech department, who tried their best to be helpful– but I knew darn well I was pulling the lever back all the way. I even received a return authorization number and was told to send it back if I couldn't get it to work.

    I didn't want to be one of those guys that sent back a perfectly good rifle, the guys people snicker at and roll their eyes at with disdain, so I continued to work at it. Finally, after one VERY forceful cocking stroke, the underlever lost its tension. That means the piston was engaged by the sear the thing was finally cocked. But the safety still did not pop out. I loaded a pellet and fired.

    PUNG! (that's what it sounds like)

    The first 80 to 90 degrees of underlever swing are easy, but start to ramp up quickly. The last 45 degrees the effort increases quite a bit, and it's progressive, so the effort increases more the further you go. I can pull the underlever back all the way without difficulty, but my 4'11" fiance can't come close, because of the leverage. Keep that in mind if you are small of stature.

    Subsequent cocking of this rifle has taught me that at least on mine, you have to cock it almost like you're trying to break it. It's not about force, its about speed, especially at the end of the cocking stroke. Bad technique will result in an uncocked gun, slightly sloppy technique will result in a cocked gun without the auto safety popping out. Keep in mind the cocking stroke is smooth, with no binding. The only thing you feel other than progressive spring tension is the antibeartrap ratchet.

    In the airgun reporter video by Paul Capello on the TX200, when he first cocks the rifle in the airgun lodge (after the extended high-school science lab safety discussion;^) if you watch the speed at which he pulls back the underlever– there is no way my gun would cock at this speed– much less engage the safety. This shows that each rifle is different. If you buy one, it may cock easier than mine does. Just keep in mind my experience if you have difficulty. If it won't cock at first just pull the underlever back progressively faster. As my rifle breaks in, it has gotten easier to cock, but not much.

  118. continued from above…

    One last thing regarding cocking. There is a rubber bump stop that fits into a little threaded hole in the shroud of the barrel that cushions it when returning the underlever to the latch. It's supposed to protect the bluing from scratches. The problem is that the threads do little to hold it in place because it's made out of rubber! The force of the underlever slamming home along with any horizontile movement will pull that little plug of rubber right out of the shroud and leave it on the filthy ground all distorted and misshapen like mine did.

    DO YOURSELF A FAVOR, WHEN YOU FIRST GET YOUR NEW TX200: There are two grooves machined into the end of the underlever. Go to Home Depot or wherever and get a rubber O ring assortment from the plumbing department. Slip two of the appropriate sized o rings into the two grooves. This will protect the blueing much better, because the underlever makes contact with the shroud closer to the end. It should also prevent the plug from being pulled out, because it will barely make contact with the underlever. My rubber plug was a lost cause however, and kept falling out no matter what I tried. Back to Home Depot for a 4mm x 6mm set screw or a grub screw or a plug screw or whatever you want to call it to plug the hole in the shroud. Blue Loctite is necessary on this screw.

    If you think what I am saying is a drunken hallucination, watch Paul Capello's video on the TX200. When the rifle is posed across the babbling stream you will see the little rubber bumper hanging precariously caddy-wampus at the muzzle end of the cocking lever. Normally the bumper would barely be visible at that camera angle. You will also notice how fast Paul slams back the underlever when he cocks the gun. I never pushed it back that fast. Most of the time I push the underlever forward and then pinch it closed slowly. But, like Tom, I had to pay for mine.

    I have a few other observations on the TX, but I've gone on too long, and need to cut it short. More later.

  119. Slinging Lead,

    It's difficult to assess a person's experiences through their words. At trade shows I have watched grown men not be able to cock a Diana 48 until I showed them that it takes a full stroke. After that, they have no problem.

    Your gun does sound extreme. I suggest you return it to the dealer for maintenance. There is no reason for a TX to cock like you describe, unless it isn't working right.


  120. Hi Sling Lead,

    I also got a new one from PA. I don't have any issue like yours. Thanks for the tips on the rubber cap from Home Depot. I will look into mine to see if there is any issue like yours.

    As for your finance trying to cock the gun, there is no girl can cock most spring guns unless your finance is a tom-boy.

    TX200 is made for a guy who can climb a Rock surface with their bare hands, if you don't have the stamina to do that, this gun is probably not for you. It is also very heavy. Like anything else, if you lift weight, eventually, you will get use to the heaviness of the TX200.


  121. BB

    I interpret your first sentence to mean, "It is difficult to determine exactly how clueless a person is, until you see them in action." It is OK. I understand that PA gets ridiculous questions from people who should know better. I worked in customer service, so I know their pain.

    The point I guess I was trying to make is that my experience is not unique, but certainly unusual, which is why the PA techs had no answer.

    You mentioned the Diana 48/52 sidelever. Both examples I have experience with are easier to cock than my TX200. The effort is less, and you can pull the lever back slower.

    As for sending the rifle back to PA for maintenance…
    Now that I know what to, do it is not a big deal. It was just counter-intuitive to me to be working the lever faster through the stroke–especially right at the end. I'm a big boy. I can handle it.

    Now that I have pulled out much of my hair, and my fingernails have been chewed to nubs, I have finally got my "TeX" shooting so well, that you can't miss a bottle cap at 25 yards, and the other day I shot two 5-shot groups at 10 yards both of which went through one tiny .177 hole. In that sense it is working very right.

    I just can't see trusting my rifle to the Samsonite gorillas in brown uniforms, for a trip–on my dime, for a marginal improvement in cocking effort.

    I have a few more experiences/observations to relate when I find the time. Next up: scoping the TX200.

  122. Beekeeper

    My fiancee is very tomboyish. She is strong, athletic and doesn't mind getting dirty. (Also sexy as hell, but besides the point)

    She cannot cock the gun because she is only 4'11" tall, which means her wingspan, fingertip to fingertip is a maximum of 4'11". Her dimensions simply don't allow her to have the leverage. Something to keep in mind, if you are not 6'2", as I am, and thinking about a purchase.

    I like to think the TX200 is made for a guy who can squeeze a lump of coal into a diamond if they have the stamina to do that, but I like your description too.

    I will not only double my reps, but increase my steroid regimen to facilitate the handling of the TX!

  123. Slinging Lead,

    No, I meant exactly what I said. When someone tells me something, I cannot imagine the circumstances that surround their statements. Therefore I cannot assess the degree of what they are claiming.

    I have had men tell me that pumping a hand pump was beyond their capabilities, only to discover when I actually met them that they MEANT that it was work, and they didn't like work. That's what I was trying to say.

    I understand why you don't want to ship your rifle. And a TX 200 is so easy to work on without a mainspring compressor that I would recommend it to most people.

    Most TX 200s are not that much harder to cock than RWS sidelevers, except taking the shorter lever into account. That's what increases the effort.

    Another story about people's mistaken claims: a guy tells me a certain magnum rifle is too difficult to cock. Then I catch him choking up on the barrel 6 inches. When I show him the correct way to cock the rifle (holding the barrel at the muzzle) he says, "Well of course I can do it like that! But I don't have to do it like that with my Diana 27!"

    Well, duh!

    That's why I said what I said.


  124. B.B I have a TX200 and the stock screws work loose after a few shots (I marked all the screws). The big one in the trigger guard (the one the manual says not to overtighten) and also the the stock forarm screws.

    I am thinking about useing a drop of blue loctight on the screws… what is everyone else doing to keep the screws tight?

    Thanks in advance for all replys.

  125. JimW

    Lots of people use the blue loctite on their stock screws. It works.

    If you have any questions in the future, I would ask them on the current day's blog found at:


    Your question will find many more readers there then on a blog that is almost 4 years old. Don't worry about your question being off topic. No one minds.

    I post to older blogs too, from time to time, but limit it to on topic comments. Anything off topic or a question I put on the current blog.

    BTW you have excellent taste in air rifles.

  126. JimW,

    All loctite products are an adhesive.

    Blue loctite specs are for use on screws typically with smaller diameter than stock screws and trigger guards screws. After application it can be heated to ease removal but this creates a mess.

    The purple loctite is designed for larger screws but is still an adhesive.

    I prefer Vibra-TITE since it works better on the stock screws I've tried and it isn't an adhesive. See details here:



  127. Ditto on the Vibra-tite. It actually performs an anti-corrosion and anti-galling function as well.

    Didn't notice if the above site sells the stuff direct, but you can always get it from Mcmaster (part # 75145A69). It's pricey, but it does last a long time.

    If you don't spill it 🙁 (speaking from experience)

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