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RWS Diana 34

by B.B Pelletier

A reader pointed out that I have never looked at the RWS Diana 34 before, so today I will rectify that. I have actually owned a couple of 34s over the years, and I’ve had both calibers. My time spent with other Diana guns is helpful as well, since things such as triggers and barrels are shared between models.

What IS a Diana 34?
The Diana 34 is an entry-level, German-made Diana breakbarrel spring-piston rifle. It’s important that you know this rifle is made in Germany, because in recent years, RWS, like Beeman, has added guns to their lines made in Spain and now China. While the powerplants of guns from those countries might be as good as the lower-cost German guns, the barrels and triggers usually aren’t.

Both calibers are good
The 34 comes in both .22 and .177, and, at the power level it achieves, it’s good in both calibers. Though it is rated at 1,000 f.p.s. in .177, it actually achieves around 920-950 with light Hobby pellets and in the high 700s with heavier Beeman Kodiaks. That’s when the gun is running right. In .22, you’ll get velocities in the high 500s/low 600s with heavy pellets and the high 600s/low 700s with light pellets.

It’s fairly easy to cock, at just over 30 lbs. of effort when broken in. The trigger is a two-stage adjustable model that can be adjusted for a crisp release. The stock is as plain as a wood stock can get, with just a raised cheekpiece and also a Monte Carlo profile to help scope users. The absence of a rubber buttpad means you must be careful when standing the rifle up on its butt.

The flagship of the Diana line
Diana designed the 34 to be an entry-level air rifle. At the time it was introduced, it had no raised cheekpiece or Monte Carlo profile. There was also a higher-priced model 36 that came with a rubber buttpad, front globe sight with replaceable inserts and a well-profiled stock with checkering. The model 38 was even nicer because it had all of those features plus a walnut stuck. The actions of all three rifles were identical. But, customers voted with their wallets, and only the 34 remains. For many years, it was Diana’s best-selling model, and it may still be today.

Scope mounting
The 34 has the same scope-mounting deficiencies that most other Diana guns have, in that there is NO way to anchor a scope mount! You have to use a one-piece scope mount and let the scope stop pin hang down in front of the 11mm dovetail ramp on the receiver, same as for all the Diana sidelevers. That means a portion of the scope mount will hang off the rail at the front, but it’s the only safe way to stop the mount from moving under recoil.

A big airgun!
This is a large air rifle, whose dimensions are well-suited to full-grown adults. Don’t think of it as a youth gun just because the price is so low. It’s the kind of air rifle that can grow with you as time passes. You can start out with just the rifle by itself and shoot for years using the sights that come with it. When the time comes, investing in a tuneup is worth the trouble because both the accuracy and the trigger warrant it. For a scope, I would choose a Leapers 3-9x40mm with a red/green reticle.

One note to owners. If you feel a distinct bump when cocking the rifle toward the end of the stroke, it means the plastic mainspring guide has broken. You can continue to shoot your rifle without damaging it, but your velocity will be lower.

The 34 can do what any of the powerful breakbarrels can. In .22, it’s a good hunting gun; in .177 you can use it for field target. It’s worth adding a nice scope and shooting premium pellets such as Crosman Premiers (I recommend the 7.9-grain in .177 and the 14.3 grain in .22.) You can also try Beeman Kodiaks and JSB Exacts in both calibers. This rifle is somewhat sensitive to hold as well as hand placement under the forearm. I like putting my open palm under the start of the cocking slot.

I am sorry I didn’t get around to this rifle before, but now I have, so it’s time for all you owners to chime in and tell the readers what you think of your air rifle.

142 thoughts on “RWS Diana 34”

  1. The 34 I purchased has detents in three places on the scope mount. I used one of these detents as a scope stop and the scope hasn’t budged that I can tell. Over a hundred shots and still dead on (with the exception of my own deficiencies) at 35 yards. Let me know if I’m doing something wrong that may damage the scope or gun.

    Also, at those velocities I wouldn’t discount the .177 in hunting small game like pigeons at that 35-40 yard range.

  2. Thanks for a great article B.B. I recently purchased the Diana 34 and think it’s great. The scope you reccommend, Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope with R/G, is the exact scope I’m ordering from Pyramyd AIR. I’ve found the Crosman Premier Hollow Point pellets are great in my rifle but the Crosman Premier Pointed fit too tightly and do not group nearly as well. As the Diana 34 is known to have considerable barrel droop, I was wondering if the B-SQUARE 17101 Interlock AA Air Gun Mount would be a good choice for my rifle/scope combination?


  3. Hey,

    B.B., I was wondering what your thoughts are on the Biakal MP-513. Thats the .22 air rifle they make. I would love a .22 cal airgun for squirrels and such and this one costs about half of what most .22s cost. I was wondering how accurate it was and the approximate velocity (for ft-lbs) it shoots. I was curious to know if it costs half as much becuase it’s half as good, or if it’s like the izh-61 and is just a really good price on a really good gun. Also, what do you think of the MP-512M, that is a .177 gun but it only costs about 60 dollars. I need a good gun to help teach some people to shoot, but I would prefer not to buy a 500 dollar gun.
    Thanks a bunch,


  4. Bob,

    Those three “detents” you mention are inadequate to stop a scope mount when it wants to move. If they are working for you that’s fine, but they are not sufficient to keep most scope mounts from moving rearward under recoil.

    And, yes, the 34 is a hunting gun in .177 as long as the shot placement is perfect.


  5. Keith,

    The B-Square mount you mentioned is exactly what I would use. Don’t forget to elevate the FRONT ring at least 1/2 turn, so when the rear ring is elevated by a turn and a half the front ring will be able to tip forward to ease the tension on the scope tube.


  6. Lama,

    As it turns out, I received a Baikal 513 from Pyramyd AIR to test for you! Mine is in .177, but since we know a .22 gains about 20 percent in power with the same powerplant, we should be able to extrapolate the power and therefore the velocity.

    Give me a few weeks to test the gun and I’ll have a full report for you.

    As for your 512 for teaching shooters, I have no experience with that model. I do have experience with the IZH 61, however, and I can tell you that the Russians know how to rifle a barrel. My guess is the 512 is a good one.



  7. Wow! I’ve never noticed the 513 before I’ll be curious to hear your take on that one too. It it’s a smooth shooter, and accurate, that would be a heck of a deal!

    Anyhow. What makes an entry level airgun like the 34 different than a more expensive model? How do they shave the dollars off (besides the aesthetics of the stock, etc.) Are there plastic parts where a more robust gun would have metal? Is it in the production tolerances?


    I have to admit, my only gun is still a pumpmaster 760 from when I was ten. that is soon to be rectified, when the resources are allocated, and the right gun is identified. This blog has been extremely helpful in my learning towards that end! Thanks BB.


  8. B.B. im interested in knowing if i am properly storing my airrifle (not long term). when im not using it i keep it in an airglide case. Unfortunatly my parents (im 17 by the way) are loath to turn on the air conditioning even in the most extreme of heat(which is very common here in the midwest)so most of the time my rifle is sitting in its case in an 80F room with an average of 50% humidity. my real consern is the fairly high humidity. so my question is: does keeping my rifle in this environment harm it?
    thanks for the advice
    P.S. feel free to share any other storage tips or tricks you have, ill be happy to recieve them.

  9. Josh,

    What makes a bargain airgun cost less than a more expensive model? Well, TIME is the most costly thing. If the factory can spend less human time on a gun, they can sell it for less.

    Materials are important, but not to the same extent. In small companies that have gone out of business, it’s often because they spent too much time on a product.

    And not every product makes an equal percentage for the company. A big seller like the 34 might make less than a slow seller like the 38 I mentioned in the post. The company will be more inclined to make less on each gun but sell more of a budget model. That ends up making them more in the long run.


  10. scopestop,

    Long-term gun storage is an age-old problem. I remember having to leave my firearms in the U.S. while I was abroad for 4 years. I sprayed them all heavily with WD40, thinking that was a good thing to do. When I returned I found a yellow varnish on everything. It took 20 years to get it all off.

    The quick answer for you is to store your airguns in a low humidity environment. I don’t like storing in cases because some liners are hygroscopic (they absorb and store moisture from the air). If you have a place like a closet where the rifles can be stood on their butts, that’s a good way to store them. A large desiccant cartridge will reduce the humidity in an enclosed space, but you have to service the cartridge according to the instructions.


  11. Ordered my Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope with R/G from PyramydAir today and it’s already been processed and shipped! Can’t wait till it gets here and see if I can get my dime sized groups with the 34 to shrink a little.


  12. I recently purchased the Diana 34 along with the B-Square 17101 mount from pyramid air (great service btw). I’m really disappointed in the 17101 mount–after proper mounting and adjusting for barrel droop, the mount became loose after about 15 rounds. The pointed windage screws were indeed set properly into the split-nut dimples.

    The use of the jam nuts to secure the gimbal screws seems rather primative..smashing steel against the very fine threads of these screws seems like really lazy design on the part of B-Square. I have a camping trip this weekend, and I’m not looking forward to adjusting this mount after every few shots. There just has to be a better solution than the 17101’s. Perhaps the fixed drooper mounts? Please advise.

    On another note, I’ve had some problem with what appears to be misfire with the 34–A loud “Pop!” and the barrel would break without firing the pellet–this is VERY disconcerting to say the least. I was very careful in seating the pellets and snapping the barrel closed–I’m not sure how this could be user error..any thoughts?

    Thanks BB for the awesome reviews–I really enjoy the info.

  13. Crimson Sky,

    You do have to use the jam screws of the mount won’t stay secure. You cannot over-torque those small screws without stripping the sockets, so don’t put that much tension on them.

    You can try fixed drooper mounts, of course. If you luck into the rigtht ones, they will be fine. But the B-Square AA adjustables properly installed are superior in every way.

    The problem you describe with your rifle has the earmarks of a dry-fire. Don’t worry, we all do it from time to time. I had one just last week. The gun popping open is a new one, but it leads me to suspect the pivot bolt is not tightened correctly. The barrel should stay where you put in after the gun is cocked. If it flops down, the pivot bolt is too loose.


  14. Thanks BB for the fast reply!~ I just tightened the pivot bolt and it seems now to be a much sturdier snap and hold. Thanks! I’ll give that 17101 mount another go. I realize that these springers are hellish on mounts and scopes, so we’ll see.

    Any experience with the Beeman 5039 adjustable?. I’ve seen these mounts in combo packages with the RWS 350. Cheers and thanks again.

  15. Hello B.B. – I am seriously considering buying an air rifle. My wife and I are moving to a more rural location soon and my theory is that I may need some kind of pest control plan. That is what I tell my wife. In reality I have not shot any kind of gun since I was in cub scouts many many years ago. I think I really just want the satisfaction of plinking away in the backyard.

    Anyway – I have narrowed down my possible choices to the Diana RWS 34 and the Benjamin 392. (I want to stay in the .22 caliber in case I do actually do get around to hunting rats.) I’ve read this review and the Benjamin 392 review (and many others). The price difference is not a factor. They both seem by all accounts to be well made, solid wood, “traditional” looking rifles which I like. I understand the difference in the power plants on paper, but I don’t know what the difference between a spring and a pneumatic gun would actually feel like. Which one would present the fewest challenges to a complete novice? Both from a learning to shoot and a maintainance standpoint? Is there another gun in this category that I have overlooked?

    Many thanks for any insight. And thanks for sharing all your wisdom – these forums are great!


  16. Joe,

    The spring gun is the most difficult of all shooting systems to learn. I definitely recommend the 392!

    Get some .22-caliber JSB Exact domed pellets in both weights, and some Beeman Kodiaks.

    You will really enjoy this air rifle. And, as my wife is fond of saying, this isn’t the last air rifle you will buy.


  17. Refering to the (22 Cal) RWS M34 as a -Entry level rilfe- is so much sales hogwash…It’s powerful, accurate, last forever and priced right…Whats missing for a hunting rifle??? TOM

  18. My humble answer to RWS m34 rifle scope mounting…Drill a 3/16 hole about 3/32 deep in the scope rail…to match the lock screw found in the new one piece mount’s…Look at a mount and you will understand…My rifle had dimple like holes in the rail already and has worked fine…Yes it hangs over a bit but that is a non rifle problem …TOM

  19. RWS 54,

    I don’thave an Air King to test, and I’ve never tested one.

    Since the only difference between that rifle and the 48/52 is the anti-recoil mechanism, why don’t you tell us how well it works. The times I’ve shot the gun, the anti-recoil didn’t work on up or down shots, only those taken with the rifle level. What is your experience with that?


  20. I like my RWS 54. It is a heavy gun but it is accentuated with quality. I havn’t shot it from any position other than level so I’m not aware of anti-recoil concerns from differing angles. I will check on that, however. It is a powerful airgun, rated at 1100 fps in cal .177. I look forward to the day when you might test it——————–Thanx——–D.G.

  21. I’ve been messing with the idea of drilling a hole within the last indent on the RWS 34 dovetail rail to accept the stop pin from the B-Square 17101 mount–Thoughts B.B. or anyone else?

    My current solution is what you recommended, hanging the pin off the front of the rail.

  22. Hi B.B. and All,

    At September 01, 2006 7:35 AM, B.B. Pelletier said… scopestop,

    Long-term gun storage is an age-old problem. [brevity snip]…

    I agree! I’ve had the same problem with WD-40.

    I’ve been using Break-Free® “Break-Free CLP” for many years. I also now use their “Collector” and “Lubricant/Preservative” product.

    I no longer buy their products packaged in aerosol cans, because in a short time they clog up and then splurt instead of spray. I don’t what the deal is… may be it’s just me.

    The Web site has good amounts of info. and MSDS sheets, so I suggest reading before buying, to see if any of their products may meet your needs.


    No, I’m not a company representative or anything like that… I just like the product.


  23. Crimson Sky,

    I have an RWS 34 and a Leapers 5th Gen 3-9×40 AO Mil Dot R/G lighted reticle scope. I tried several mounts (accushot, Gamo, BSA) but the only one that worked for me is the RWS Air Rifle Universal C-Mount.

    The one-piece mounts held OK, but they couldn’t handle the barrel droop so I needed extra elevation adjustment. The fully adjustable C-mount has worked fine through 1000s of shots. It has a pin which fits in the shallow depressions in the rail, although it may be holding primarily with the compression tightening on the rail. In any case, it doesn’t move.

    The only thing I didn’t like is that there are MANY screws to adjust and get tightened properly. Once I got it right, it has been a perfect combination for the rifle and scope.

    Mike in CO

  24. BB I have a few questions

    Can this rifle maintain 1 inch groupings after 40 meters?

    And I was thinking of changing the spring, if it ever gets broken, or oiling it up once in a while.

    Can the rifle be taken apart easily?


  25. The Diana 34 caqn hold a group of one inch at 40 meters if you can. It’s very sensitive to hold, as all breakbarrel springers are.

    It is not easy to disassemble. Compared to the Beeman R1 I disassembled for this blog, the 34 is twice as hard to take apart.


  26. I just found a Diana 34 in my garage. Broke the barrel, load it up, pull the trigger…nothing. So then I read that you had to fold the barrel until you hear a “click.” So I fold, and fold, and fold, no clicks. I fold it to the max that it would fold. Still nothing. Any ideas? Thank you.

  27. hey,
    my diana 34 .177 air rifle was great, but one day when i went squirrel hunting the barrel got harder and harder to break as the day went on. then just before i was ready to head in i had shot it and when i went to reload, the barrel would not break. i, along with my friends have tried and tried to break the barrel but it simply will not budge. i have no idea what could have caused this and i was wondering if you did and are there any things i can try to fix it??

  28. B.B.

    I am thinking of getting a pellet gun for my son and the RWS M34 seems like a good one after he had a pump .177. I grew up on .22 and have a .22 pistol. It seems to me that .22 is the right caliber for any pellet gun. Why .177 over .22 or visa versa?

  29. .177 became popular because of the European influence in airguns in the 1960s. The pellets are less expensive, so unless you hunt, they are better for general plinking.

    I prefer the .22 as well, because it’s easier to load.


  30. Ali,

    I live in an area with many large sized blackbirds with grey chest-I don’t know what you call them in English- and to get rid of these big but cautious pests,I’d like to get an airgun.For me the two options are Diana mod36 and magnum 350. Please advise me if the first option is enough to eliminate the birds in a 30 t0 50 meters distance or I should buy the more expensive one?

  31. Big black bird,

    If you are talking about a U.S.-spec Diana 36, it has more than enough power for the birds. Spring guns are difficult to shoot accurately, and breakbarrels, such as the 36 and 350 magnum, are the hardest. Limit your shots to the range at which you can hit a 1″ circle every time.


  32. I am having the exact same problem as the poster back on Nov. 5 of last year. My RWS 34 was working fine and all of the sudden has become almost impossible to break open. When you hit the barrel it will move just a fraction but will not break open. I did manage to get it open. I shot a few times and the same thing happened again. I just wanted to post this to see if anyone has determined what causes this.

  33. One other thing that can be wrong with these rifles being hard to cock…

    I took mine apart when it first started getting hard to cock. There was no lube between the spacer washers and the barrel. The rifle was starting to gall there. Bad mojo.

    I bought the rifle used, so I always thought that the previous owner had done it… perhaps not.

    I cleaned up the galling (it was very light at this point…) and used some good grease in there.

    Is this happening to your rifle?
    Hint: Do you see any metal filings or fine metal dust around the barrel pivot mount?

  34. Hey B.B. and all, Is the mount that comes with the rws combo with the 4×32 scope good or do I need to buy other ones for the barrel droop. It seems like they would work since they are selling them with the gun. I dont want to spend all that extra money on a mount when I know I am already going to buy a better scope like the leapers 5 gen 3x9x50. Can I shim the scope with the mounts that come with the gun to zero the scope or is there a reason why that wont work. My quest 800 had severe barrel droop and then I shimmed the scope with folded electrical tape and that did the trick! Well B.B. so will shimming the scope with the mounts from the combo work instead of buying the adjustable mount? If you dont think it will work than I will probably buy the gamo cfx .22 as I need a good main hunting airgun for a around $250 including scope and mounts! THanks I woul really aprieciate responses!!

  35. The droop on the RWS Diana 34 is so major that I don’t think shimming will work in most cases.

    The type of scope can make a difference, but until the extent of the droop is known it’s impossible to say which scope you need.


  36. Anyone have any other reccomendations for a good scope other than the Leapers 3-9×40 AO Mil-Dot Scope? It got a bad review from one user and its scared me off it a bit and wouldent mind spending a bit extra for something with similar specs to suit the RWS C-Mount and this Diana model 34 rifle.


  37. I was really disappointed to hear such a mundane report of the Diana 34 which is such a outstanding brake barrel rifle. Yes, it may be a entry level with the Diana series, it is not a entry level gun! Especially compared to the junk that is out there now. I do not think any brand can touch the quality for the price. The velocity chart of other reviews have gone into great detail with at least 10 different pellets and the 34 was very very close if not better to break barrel rifles in the of the same class to include more expensive Beemans . The rifle is one of the smoothest rifles I have ever shot, and if a rifle did not need a scope it would surly be the 34. The balance is fantastic, and the rifle has a hell of a lot of power. I would not trade the longer barrel, as I feel it really adds to accuracy without the scope. The German guns are a treasure. A gun that can truly last a life time and be handed down with confidence to a younger generation. This gun is a workhorse that shoots straight every time. You did you not mention the “limited life time warranty”? I doubt a gamo, would dare go that extra yard.

  38. Pyramyd AIR, the host of this blog, is the largest American repair center for vintage RWS Diana airguns like yours. They have mountains of parts.

    The manufacturer is Diana in Germany. You don’t want to send your gun there.

    RWS USA is operated by Umarex USA. They can repair some vintage airguns. But Pyramyd AIR is the biggest.


  39. I called Pyramyd air and the tech recommended the accushot one piece for my model 34 (also getting Leapers 3-9×32). He said that the stop would line up with the holes in the rail. Is this the best option? Also said to put two strips of plastic (like coke bottle) under rear of scope to raise rear. Does this all sound right?
    The gun came out of the box with a little trace of rust at the base of the barrel (where it meets a rectangular piece). Does this sound like problems for the future?
    Also, I’ve fired 200+ shots and still can’t get good groups. What is the pellet that is usually best for this gun (.177) and is it possible to bench shoot it through some configuration considering the “hold” sensitivity?
    Thanks, your great. Long time lurker, first time poster…

  40. I called Pyramyd air and the tech recommended the accushot one piece for my model 34 (also getting Leapers 3-9×32). He said that the stop would line up with the holes in the rail. Is this the best option? Also said to put two strips of plastic (like coke bottle) under rear of scope to raise rear. Does this all sound right?
    The gun came out of the box with a little trace of rust at the base of the barrel (where it meets a rectangular piece). Does this sound like problems for the future?
    Also, I’ve fired 200+ shots and still can’t get good groups. What is the pellet that is usually best for this gun (.177) and is it possible to bench shoot it through some configuration considering the “hold” sensitivity?
    Thanks, your great. Long time lurker, first time poster…

  41. I only recommend the scope mounting technique that I wrote about in this series. You must hang the scope stop pin in front of the scope ramp base or the scope and mount will move. I can’t make it any clearer than that.

    This was presented in the this section:


    As for shimminjg the scope, you can do it, but the amount the 34 neweds may styress the scope tube, as I mention in the blog, I believe. That’s why I use an adjustable scdope mount that has gimbal action for the rings, so the tube is never stressed.


  42. I purchased the RWS C-mount for my 34 and have to say I am not at all pleased with it. I followed directions and could get no grouping. To follow the instructions it’s necessary to keep removing the scope to make an adjustment here or there. Try some shots, take it apart and try again. The fine screws started to strip. What a mess for the price you pay for it!

  43. I recently purchased a model 34 in .177 caliber and heard that as few as 5o shots to as much as 2000 were needed to seat everything for best shooting. Which is correct?

    Also, if one puts in a JM kit does this void the warranty?

  44. msheron,

    ANY disassembly of an air rifle usually voids the warranty. But if you know how to install a Maccari kit, what do you care? There are no breakable parts that you cannot replace yourself.

    Stocks,barrels and spring tubes don’t break accidentally.

    When I wrote the R1 book, I tested 2 different .22 caliber Beeman R1s for 1,000 shots from new. The bulk of the changes occurred in the first 500 shots.

    With other makes, this changes. It took 3,000 to 4,000 shots to break in a Beeman C1. The same caqn be true of a Gamo made in the 1990s and before. But I have found the RWS Diana guns are ready to go pretty soon after you start shooting them.


  45. Great gun my first springer bluing,fit and finish german of course. I bought .22cal and like it alot it shoots predators nice infact i just holed out at 30 yards standing lol. Now if i tried to do that again i doubt it. One pellet was crushed other not so im wondering if i broke a spring or something, its got 3000 pellets through and havent lubed yet. Things i dont like weight its heavy with scope.

  46. Also if scoping your going to need accushot medium one piece one inch tube for 40mm scope,loc tight, one inch zip tie to shim scope. Barrel drop is extreem on rws breakers shimming a must. Locktight every bolt on the gun trust me they get loose easy including the scope bolts clean off grease!

  47. Sheriff,

    Any competent gunsmith can install a generic rubber buttpad on a 34 that has a wooden stock. It’s just like working on any firearm. The pad would come from Brownells and be a generic size to fit all long guns.


  48. Hi @ all you airriflers,

    I own a .22 Diana 34 and i mounted a gamo sporter 3-9X32 on it the mount is a 2 pieced one . And so far after approx 1000 rounds ,it hasn’t moved so far , what i did do before i mounted the scope is that i carefully degreased the mounts aswell as the dovetail with “aceton”.
    greetz Edwin
    Flanders (Belgium)

  49. I have a RWS Diana Model 34. I do shoot it more than the normal person. After about 5,000 pellets I was not getting a good group. I sent it back to the company and had it completely rebuilt. They sent me a target they shot with a group of 1-1/2″ at 10 meters. If I were shooting at 10 meters, I would throw a rock. Now after about 3,000 pellets, I am all over the target. The rebuilding cost me about half the original price of the rifle. Is there any air rifle out there that can take my kind of shooting and keep up to a 2-1/2 group at 50 yards? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Semper Fi! Bob

  50. I purchased a 34 last year and never have gotten it to shoot consistently. Several of my friends have 34s and several have others (which they and I shoot fine). All of us agree something is wrong wiht my 34 … I believe it is somehow related to the break pivot (I won’t bore you with all the details of how long it took to come to this conclusion) … Has anyone else experienced this issue? Any suggestions? THanks, Mike

  51. I love this gun! I can’t wait to put it in the case with my 22 rim fire and go squirrel/ rabbit hunting. The .22 model has enough take down power to be an awesome small game gun, and it is not as loud as a rim fire shot.A all around good gun, the Diana 34 beats most American brand air guns I have owned, and the look is quality.

  52. I am wondering whether i should get a gamo whisper or a rws 34 striker combo from pyramid. I dont know whether to get .22 or .177 either. I need it for hunting and plinking. Any suggestions????

  53. Anonymous adking about a gamo whisper or a rws 34 striker combo from pyramid,

    You posted your question in a relevant place (an article that B.B. wrote about the RWS Diana 34). Unfortunately, this was an article that B.B. wrote in 2006. You’ll find most airgunners asking each other questions, answering each others questions and sharing their airgun stories in the comments section under the most recent article that B.B. has written (B.B. writes a new airgun related article every day Monday-Friday).

    If you copy and paste this link it will always take you to the most recent article that B.B. has written. Scroll down to the bottom of the article and in the green box click on comments and you will join a great group of airgunners. Here’s the link:


    Look forward to seeing you there!


  54. He B.B,

    I'm dieing to either get the 34 or the 350 magnum. My area has foxes and they are eating people's cats ect. They are so sure of themselves that I can get within 5 feet and they won't run.

    I like the sleek and simple features of the 34…but I am drawn to the 350 magnum's power and more "deadly" looks.

    I need to know which gun would be best for my problem. I will also use the gun in the backyard..but hunting would be it's main job.

    I am big on German rifles but if you don't think the Diana line is right, please suggest what you think. Russian rifles aren't to shabby either 😀

    Thanks and sorry for the novel of a comment.


  55. Breaker,

    You are too under-gunned against a fox with either spring rifle. Let's get at least 45 foot-pounds and 60 would be even better. I recommend the AirForce Condor for a fox.

    If noise is a problem, get the Airhog bloop tube.


  56. Ok good to know, I pride myelf taking game humanity. If I could get a clean eye shot with a .22 at less then 10 feet would a fox drop or would the pellet just blind it by simply getting stuck in the eyeball?

  57. Anonymous with the fox problem,

    The real cure is to encourage people to keep their cats, etc. indoors.

    If you must rid yourself of these animals, why not trap (with a live trap)and relocate them? If you can get within 5 feet of them consider a snare pole and then put them in a pet carrier and relocate them.

    If you feel you must kill them please follow B.B.'s suggestion and use enough gun.


  58. I am seriously thinking about mounting a Burris #200384 scope on my Diana 34. This is a 3-9×32 AO scope that Burris advertises for Rimfire/Airguns. It adjusts down to 7 yards and weighs in at a mere 13 ozs.

    But this scope is a "compact" model so it may not fit my RWS scope base. After measuring, the RWS Lock Down Mount (UPC 723364005961) requires 4.75" to mount a scope. According to Burris, this particular "compact" scope has only 4.6" between bell bulges, so it's dicey.

    Assuming I have to use a different base or mount, what would you recommend? The compensating bases like the UTG plus low rings are a possibility. According to the RWS C-mount package, their base has .025" of droop compensation built in. When I mounted a scope with this base, the initial shots were still quite low.

    The B-square adjustable rings plus shims (but with no separate base) is another possibility, and should be lighter total weight.

    Plus, the Burris scope is relatively light in weight as scopes go.

    Suggestions or recommendations?

    Has any other user had experience with this particular scope? I am a big fan of Burris scopes for other applications and this ought to be a Cadillac airgun scope.

  59. trainhead,

    I tested one of Burris' compact scopes years ago and found it very substandard in the optics. Very out-of -focus. Mine was a 6 power fixed power scope.

    The only Burris I ever liked was their 8-32 for field target. It's sharp and clear.


  60. David,

    You asked your question on a blog that was written in 2006. Not many of us are watching the old blogs for new comments. You'll get alot more help if you post your question on today's blog which can be found at/blog//.

    Now I've got a couple of questions for you. Is it a new or used gun? Have you checked all the screws scope mounts, etc to makae sure nothing is loose? Do you use the artillary hold when shooting? What type of pellet are you shooting and have you tried anyother type, weigth, etc?

    See you on the current blog.

    Mr B.

  61. I've had my 34 .177 for about 5 years now and just now put the RWS scope I got with it on. Was picking off light bulbs at 50 yards with just the iron sights. Put the scope on and hit a grackle between the eyes at 45yards. Verry reliable gun as far as I'm concerned.

  62. Anonymous,

    Thanks for your comments on the Diana 34. I don't know if you're aware of the fact that B.B. writes a daily blog, Mon-Fri. You posted to a blog that was written in 2006. There arn't but a small handful of us checking the old blogs for new postings.

    Would you please share your observations on your Diana 34 with the majority of this blogs readers by reposting them on/blog//. Thanks much.

    Mr B.

  63. Velocity is based on a number of items – transfer port, spring strength, swept area of compression chamber and the most important, the weight of the pellet used. I'm not familiar with the 35 but the 34 is a low cost, magnum powered spring piston rifle. The 35 is probably designed for greater accuracy and easier cocking but I'm not sure about that.

    You can't judge what a rifle will do based only on price but have to also consider what is the rifle intended for? Target shooting? Hunting? Plinking? Competition?

    Fred PRoNJ

  64. Hi Croatia-Serbia here,).English is foregin language for me so dont mind my gramatic mistakes:)Diana 34 i owne is 22 cal meister… something 🙂 It is rare cal here since we cant hunt with airguns(law).My first 22 cal gun so -too many plastic for my taste,plastic sights and hard to make accurate,good metal works,good price(for accuracy i will still use my slavia 631)but still enough power for me shooting targets and more Milan or MIKE 😉

  65. Croatia-Serbia,

    Wecome to our Blog and comments section. It is always a pleaure to here from other countries. You need to know that this Blog and comments are 4 years old and only a few of us will see your comments.

    The blog is posted 5 days per week and the newest can be found at https://www.Pyramydair.com/blog/

    Post your comments and questions there as many more people will see it!

    Fred PRoNJ

  66. Croatia-Serbia,

    Welcome and don't wory about your grammer. B.B. writes a daily blog Monday through Friday at/blog// Please direct you comments there. Not many of us check the old blogs for current comments. If you want your comments and or questions seen by ALOT of people, please post them there. Hope that you see fit to join us on a regular basis.

    Mr B.

  67. Hi there,

    I have been reading your blog and it's been a huge help in deciding which air gun I should choose. Now, I am not sure what pellets I should choose. I know you mentioned a few, but particularly for accuracy (shorter and longer ranges), are there any specific brands or shapes of pellets you found best?

    Thanks a bunch!


  68. Jonny,

    what's part of the attraction of the sport is finding which pellet is right for your rifle.
    Due to manufacturing tolerances, not every rifle of the same model from the same mfg. will shoot the same pellet best.
    Suggestions that most have found work well in air rifles are Crosman Premiers, H&N's, JSB Exacts and RWS Superdomes.
    However, in browsing the Pyramydair site, I see they are selling an RWS pellet sampler. I have personally gotten good results with super H points from RWS.
    Try the sampler, a tin of jSB's and Crosman Premiers and see which will produce the tightest group in your rifle.By the way, buy three and
    get a fourth tin free. One last thing, this blog that you've commented on was published 4 years ago. Only a handful of
    volunteers monitor comments from these older blogs. The blog is published Monday to Friday and can be found here:


    We welcome off-topic comments and your comments or questions will get the greatest exposure possible on a current blog. By all means, read the older blogs as there's a tremendous amount of knowledge to be gained.

    We look forward to seeing you at the current blog.

    Fred PRoNJ

  69. Hello,

    I have a RWS 34 .177 that I purchased quite a few years back and it came with an RWS scope and 2 piece mount set up. The scope has since been removed due to lack of accuracy which I now find is more due to me not using the artillery hold most likely.

    My questions are

    1. Is the 1 piece mount and scope mentioned at the beginning of this article still the best for this gun?

    2. Why was it sold with a 2 piece scope set up if the one is better? Could the 2 piece have been that much cheaper than the 1 piece?

    3. Is having the gun adjusted and tuned worth the money for the occasional varmint shooting like I do? Or should I be able to dial in this gun good with the above mentioned accessories or what ever is recommended?

    Thanks for any advice.


  70. Dave, you'll get more feedback on the current blog


    The reason why your gun came with a cheaper mount is simply… that it is cheaper. The M34 was/is Diana's entry into the low-buck magnum market, competing against Spanish and Chinese rifles that could undercut it price-wise. So they did whatever they could to keep the price as competitive as possible.

    With regards to 3), you might be best off answering that yourself. I'd suggest learning to shoot the rifle as is before deciding if it's worth putting more into it.

  71. Dave,

    So much has happened to the RWS Diana 34 since this old blog was written. For starters, a new base was created to help with the known scope/barrel droop problem. And no, one-piece scope rings are not better than 2-piece. In fact they are less flexible in use.

    Vince suggested that you being your questions to the current blog, where thousands of readers can see it and help you. To get there just put this URL in your browser window:


    I hope to see you there and will be happy to answer your questions one by one.


  72. I will have to head over there, I am a little confused as to where I would post that question though…. Air Gun Academy Blog?

    Maybe after I register and log in it will show? Is there a certain area for questions like that?

    Thanks again Vince and B.B.


  73. Dave,

    Simply post your question at the bottom of the current day's blog. We don't worry about off topic comments here. Anyone is welcome to post anything anytime and even anywhere.

    We're just bringing you over so all the readers can see what you have to say and chime in if they want to.


  74. PLEASE HELP! I have a Diana 34 22.cal. I've shot 300 pellets (superdomes). Today after firing, the barrel broke open a bit, and now the barrel is very very difficult to break (cock). Is this a defect? I am new to spring guns.


  75. B, you'll get more responses on the current blog:


    Off-topic airgun questions are always welcome.

    With regards to your 34, I'm a little unclear on exactly what your problem is. Is it only hard to break open, or is the entire cocking cycle difficult?

  76. I have put 7-800 round threw it. With the scope that came with it I can get dime size groups with it using premier HP's no problem. Have not had any trouble with the scope moving from the standard mounting place(yet?). When i get anouther 1000 rounds through it I will take off the DNT06 scope elevation compensator mount and see if it has gone back any from the divits.

  77. Hi I recently bought the .177 version of Diana RWS 34. Out of the box I noticed a significant amount of resistance right before finishing cocking the gun. It's almost a 3rd motion – cocking the barrel, pushing it up, then once more. I'm also pretty new to air rifles so I think my positioning could be the reason for that 3rd motion. In addition about 3 to 5 out of maybe 100 of my shots have created a large crack and smoke in the barrel. I'm wondering these are significant enough issues to warrant some concern.

  78. The crack and smoke are from dieseling most likely from excess oil in the chamber. Try running a dry patch through the barrel and wiping the breech face with a dry patch. The 3rd motion could be a few things that come to mind. Maybe just needing to break in but not sure since I can't see or feel it myself. The other thing could be a piston that is misaligned if it is a metal on metal sound. Or sometimes people get broken springs right off the bat but the gun is under warranty so that can be fixed as such…….well, I assume if you bought it new and recent. Good luck.

  79. About a month ago, I was forced to purchase an air rifle due to a small battle I had been waging with a cagey woodchuck.
    Without doing any research whatsoever I went out and bought a Winchester 1250 SS in .177 caliber. I was sold (literally) on the fire power that this rifle would deliver.
    After taking it home and setting up a target in my yard,
    I took my first shot.
    First barrel crack open was difficult and I am not slight of frame. With the scope mounted, my shot was 10" low and left.
    It sounded like my grandfathers elk rifle he called a 30 ought six. Sorry if I sound like a green horn in this regard but fact is I am.
    After the first shot, I closed the tin of pellets and carried the Winchester back into the house put it in the carton and took it back to the store to get my money back, which I did received. I knew that this rifle was not going to be for me.
    Disillusioned, I started to peruse the web, Youtube and air rifle forums to see what air rifle was getting good comments. Time after time I heard good things about RWS rifles. The model 34P in plastic or the all wood stock caught my eye and the reviews and demos were mainly positive.
    Went to my local Bass Pro Shop to check it out in person. Funny thing was, the sales person was very negative about the model 34 with wood stock even said that it might be discontinued. He was pointing me towards the Benjamin Trail NP and a Rueger Air Hawk. I said thanks and left. Now I'm wondering.
    Went back to reading more and viewing more videos on the model 34. I was still very curious about it and the Made in China thing was always at the back of my
    Well to put this tale to an end, I contacted Pyramid Air customer service and asked them a few questions and placed an order for the Diana model 34 striker combo in .22 caliber with wood stock and celebrated T06 trigger.
    After receiving it and before mounting the packaged scope, I fired 5 shots using the fixed sights. Keep in mind that this was the very first time that I had ever fired an air rifle.
    All five shots were well within a 6" circle at 50'. Not bad.
    The barrel was easier to cock and rifle is much much more quite! Basically just a clunk sound.
    With the provided Force Tech scope and droop compensating scope mount, I can place all my shots in the center of my bullseye target consistently.
    There was a lot of hype on this German made air rifle and I started to think that it was going to be tough for the model 34 to live up to all the good hype.
    Well, I can honestly say that it did live up to the hype.
    And then I read that it will only get better with use?
    More hype? Hope it's again true.
    I like this air rifle.

  80. Ron,

    Yeah, Bass Pro isn't a good place to buy an airgun. They deal in bottom line guns that sell on price, alone.

    Your 34 will last you a long time, and you will grow to love it.

    This blog is an old one. Please come to our current blog that's located here:


    You don't have to stay on-topic. And we welcome new airgunners.

    Be hoping to hear from you,


  81. Hi fellow air gunners o live in trinidad and parts are hard to get can someone tell me if the gamo hunter spring will work in my diana 34 …I know the length will need cutting. ….but does it work. ……….does the diana 54 spring work better

  82. hello i’m 14 and i just took apart my dads 100 anniversary model 34, it had 3 cracks in the piston. the first is a large crack that goes from the top of the gap in the middle to the top of the of the piston. the other to are very small cracks some where around 1/16 of an inch long and about a quarter of an inch down from the first and they go out the sides. should i try and find a replacement or try and fix this one

    • Zach,

      Welcome to the blog.

      Get a new piston. They aren’t that expensive. And inspect the end of the compression chamber closely. Those cracks are from shooting the rifle without a pellet — what we call dry-firing. The gun cannot take much of that.

      You can post to the current blog, where more than 50,000 readers will see your comment and offer help.



  83. I have a 34 that I bought in 1998 and I just now put a scope on it ,a leapers 4-32 mil dot and just used there mounting rings to the dove tail mouted on the gun it works good. Im geting nickle size groups at 30 yards with crossman hollow points, I have ordered some H-N hollow points to see how they shoot? Also,is my older 34 much different than the newer 34s, it has the mounticarlo stock.

  84. I just e-mailed you a couple of days ago about having a RWS model 34 with a leapers 4-32 scope on it I bought in 1998, well its a 36 not a 34. Where they made different in 1998. Like I said it shoots great but being a 36 I dont find much about it even the manual pops up as a 34. I know the gun has been discontinued, so do I have any less of a good shooting pellet gun, was there problems with the 36 to be discontinued, hope you can help with some answers thanks.Rich.

    • Rich,

      You have a better rifle. The 36 is a 34 with a better stock and better sights. The 38 is all those things with a walnut stock.

      As Diana upgraded the 34 over the years, they eliminated the 36 and 38 and superfluous.

      Your rifle is identical to a 34 is all operational (and parts) ways.


  85. Thanks for the information, so I can just follow 34 manuals for info and specs. Also about what fps do you think the 36 shoots with the 177 at 9.57 grains. Have you done any testing of this gun, if I remember the 36 was soupose to get about 1000 mabe 1100 fps? Thanks again Rich.

  86. B.B Qusetion would I benefit to mount a VTG drooper scope rail with weaver rings on my RWS diana modle 36. With it shooting very good would it just be wasting my money? Thanks again Rich

    • Rich,

      Is your rifle shooting well now with a scope? If so, leave it alone.

      But if you are thinking of mounting a scope on your 36 for the first time, then, yes, I think you need the UTG base that’s made for the 34.

      Use low or medium rings, because the base elevates the scope by itself.


  87. Hello B.B. Pelletier and everyone at the blog.

    I’m a long time airgun enthusiast from Portugal.
    This is my first post at the blog, I’ve searched around and found nothing about a necessary presentation post.

    I have some doubts about the RWS Diana 34 maintenance & preservation, so I’ve chose to place my first post here.

    Would appreciate your help if possible, is this the place to post my doubts?
    Thank you.

  88. Hello again, thank you for your time.

    Well, my RWS Diana 34 was manufactured (and bought) in 1993, so it endured quite a bit of wrong practices and wear, but is in very good preservation state (barrel; action & stock). Finally changed it’s original spring this week.

    However, the wood stock front screw holes are showing their time; the wood doesn’t show any cracks or anything.
    (I’ve been using cedar oil on the wood from time to time.)

    But since the front screws have those knurled metal washers and they weren’t always well tight, the larger wood holes where the screw heads enter are getting somewhat more “sunk” with time.
    And with a new spring, I know there will be more tension on that area, when cocking and firing the air rifle.

    So I would like to know what do you recommend to strenghten the wood on those screw holes, as I don’t want to break my stock.

    I’ve been using some plastic washers between the knurled metal washers and the wood, but they didn’t last long.
    (That however only protects the wood but doesn’t restore it.)

    Do you recommend applying some kind of resin, or any product of easy access (as our airgun / fire arms after-market here is somewhat limited) ?

    Thank you.

  89. By the way, do you recommend plastic or metal, flat washers?
    The plastic ones, seem get dented more easily along the time, but also seem to hold the knurled / serrated washer in place better.

  90. PedroMike,

    I’m not a woodworker. Some of our readers might help you, but they won’t see this comment because it’s too far back. This report was written 10 years ago.

    You need to comment on the current blog, which is located here:


    I do recommend flat metal washers.under the lock washers.


  91. Hello,

    Thank you for the advice, will do.
    I have another question though, some days ago bought ” H&N Sport Rabbit Magnum II ” pellets (0.177 cal.)

    However those are the first pellets which seem to be over dimensioned, as it’s needed an unusual amount of force to insert them on the barrel inlet. And even so the skirt doesn’t go all in the barrel. (Everyone of those 5 or 6 pellets I’ve shot is like that.)

    Have you ever experienced that?

    • PedroMike,

      Go here:


      It is the current blog p-age. I write a new article every day. These are not threads, they are comments. This is a blog, not a forum.

      Rabbit Magnums are solid bullets and they don’t work in anyone’s airgun. They are a fad. Get JSB Exact pellets if you can.


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