by B.B. Pelletier
Clean the bore
It’s back to Beeman’s dual-caliber RS2 SS1000H today. The first step before velocity or accuracy testing is barrel cleaning, if at all possible. I don’t clean those rifles whose designs make the barrels difficult to access, like the Gamo CF-X or the TX200 Mark III, but breakbarrels are pretty easy to get at, and a rifle whose barrel comes off has got to be the easiest! So, out comes the JB Non-Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound,eddie and it’s 20 strokes through the barrel in both directions with a new brass brush. For a complete explanation of what I do, read this post. Pyramyd Air doesn’t have any .177 brass brushes in stock as I write this, but there’s nothing wrong with using a brush bought at Wal-Mart or a gun store. Nylon brushes are not good for this procedure, and .17 caliber firearm brushes will work in .177 pellet guns, as .22 caliber firearm brushes will work in .22 pellet guns. The brushes are tens of thousandths too large for the bore, so we are not looking for a precision fit.
What pellets should we choose?
This is a spring gun, which we know from experience usually does better with light- to medium-weight pellets. By “better,” I mean it produces the most muzzle energy, which signifies the greatest transfer of energy from the spring-driven piston to the pellet. And, if it has a gas spring, the same thing is true, because compressed air is also a type of spring. The greatest energy transfer means the least piston bounce, so that is what we look for when picking pellets for spring guns. However, after finding a range of good pellets that fall into the same general power level, accuracy testing will nail down the one best pellet for that particular gun. As long as the rifle is performing within a reasonable range of power, getting the last tenth of a foot-pound isn’t as important as hitting the target, which is what this whole drill is about.
Install the barrel
After the barrel is clean, it’s installed on the rifle. The stub slides into the baseblock and a single cross-screw tightens it in place. As the Allen screw is tightened, it seems to draw the barrel in tighter to the baseblock. After the screw was tight, I could not detect that the barrel was separate from the gun. It felt just like any breakbarrel.
The rifle cocks with relative ease, at 30 lbs. of force. Cocking is smooth and quiet. And this rifle fires with very good behavior for a new airgun. It is so smooth that I believe the powerplant components are fitted pretty well. The two-stage trigger, which is very positive, by the way, breaks at 3 lbs., 12 ozs. It has some creep in the second stage, but feels pretty nice.
Now, let’s shoot!
There were some surprises. Crosman Premier 7.9-grain pellets that loaded very easy wanted to average 880 f.p.s., but five shots out of 13 dropped below 850 f.p.s. The lowest went 819 f.p.s. If we take 880 f.p.s. as the average (a range of the other shots from 868 to 886), the energy is 13.59 foot-pounds.
Next, I tried the Beeman Trophy. It weighs 7.9 grains and averages 901 f.p.s. without any pellets going dramatically slower. That is 14.24 foot-pounds. It also loads loose in the breech.
Beeman Kodiaks weigh 10.6 grains and average 806 f.p.s. – also without any slower shots. That’s 15.29 foot-pounds – a shock for me, based on my past experience! They also load very easy.
Beeman Ram Jets averaged 850 f.p.s., but were all over the place in velocity, ranging from 822 to 880. They weigh 9.8 grains, which makes them a heavier pellet. At 850, they deliver an astonishing 15.73 foot-pounds. The way they load may present a clue to their bizarre performance. They fall into the bore, but the skirt is flared so wide that they will not go all the way into the breech. A seating tool would have been a help.
JSB Exact lightweight pellets (8.4 grains) averaged 937 f.p.s., but they had a single slow shot at 722. Taking the average of 937 (the slow shot wasn’t calculated into the average) they put out 16.38 foot-pounds and are the power leader in this test.
Finally I shot some Gamo Raptors – just to see what they would do. They averaged 1189 f.p.s. if I disregard the one shot that went 863 f.p.s. That would give the 5-grain pellet 15.70 foot-pounds.
Clearly, the rifle is dieseling significantly at this point. I cannot trust any of these numbers, even though several pellets only had a 10 foot-second spread from the slowest to fastest shot. Here’s what I’ll do. I’ll try all of these pellets for accuracy next, because clearly the heavier pellets are not having a problem in this gun. Then, I’ll test the .22 barrel for you, and, after all is finished, I will return and re-chrono the gun with these same pellets. By then, the powerplant will have several hundred shots on it, and the dieseling should be under control.
The heavier pellets tested were in the same ballpark for power, while the lighter ones (except the Raptors) gave LESS power, which really surprises me. Only the JSB Exact, which is on the high side of light for this test, had any power for a lighter pellet. I really thought the heavy pellets would have a lot less energy. I hope when I test again that I’ll be able to make more sense of the numbers, because right now I don’t trust them.
I didn’t expect that I’d like this rifle, but my first impression changes all that. It’s smooth, light to cock and the trigger is very usable. The changeable barrel is rock-solid when installed, so no problem there. You’ll recall that I liked the look of the package in the first report. Let’s hope the good news keeps right on coming!
66 thoughts on “Beeman RS2 SS1000H dual-caliber rifle combo – Part 2 Velocity for the .177 barrel”
that things a bomb!
Bob, I strongly suspect that this thing is a modded AR1000 which you’ve spoken very highly of in the past. Do you perceive any similarities?
You must own a garage full of pellets.
How much will altitude affect my springer? I live at 4,000 feet — not exactly the roof of the world — yet I’ve never heard even a hint of a supersonic “crack” firing the Gamo Raptors that came with my CFX.
Plus, I’m getting nice groups with the things at 30 yards, which makes me wonder if they’re nowhere near the sound barrier.
You mentioned that you never clean the barrels of the Gamo CF-X or the TX200 Mark III? I have a BSA Superstar which i have never cleaned but I am considering to do. What would you suggest?
You’re right, 4000 feet isn’t the roof of the world, but it does affect the output of a springer. Not to the danger point; that’s anything above a mile, or even 6,000 feet. But if Raptors aren’t going supersonic, then you are definitely feeling the effect.
As I recall, the CF-X was borderline supersonic with Raptors here at 600 feet, so I bet they can’t go supersonic where you live.
Have we spoken recently? I’m slow on the clues, but trout, a CF-X and 4000 feet seem to ring a bell.
The Superstar has the same rotary breech as the CF-X and is just as impossible to clean for that reason. In fact, my first CF-X “review” was by proxy, based on the Superstar that I had owned.
Don’t clean it. Just shoot it.
Vince and Bob,
I suspect something similar. If not an AR 1000, then a similar Chinese gun of quality.
I was very surprised by what I saw.
Is there anything particular I need to clean off smudges on the barrels of my guns? How about wiping them down with pellgunoil?
Gun care and cleaning is too complex to answer “Yes” to this question. For instance, to shine Umarex pistols, many shooters use Turtle Wax.
When dealing with a blued steel surface, an oil like you suggest is a good thing. Just don’t put it on a painted surface, or you could soften and remove the paint.
I figured there might be something to this. I’m thinking about the barrels of my IZH-61 (what else) and Crosman 1077. I don’t know if the barrels are “blued” or painted black.
JWBurns, I might be able to ease your bleeding over the IZH-61. First, I’ve had good success with the Crosman Premiers. Stocking up on four boxes is a good idea. Secondly, this rifle not only shoots accurately, but also, as I’m discovering, is very fast with its sidelever action. Except for semi-autos, I have to believe that this is one of the fastest repeaters out there. You throw the 12 pound cocking lever and squeeze the trigger. You can be the John Wayne sniper from hell banging off a 5 shot clip in 10 seconds. I’ve noticed, too, that the rhythm you get from doing this can even aid accuracy. It’s not always reliable, but plowing 5 shots into one hole at a high rate of speed is, for me, the very summit. Your indoor shooting range will disappear and be transformed into whatever you want…
BobC, thanks for your response about different pistol designs. I love learning from the voice of experience, especially when it saves me a lot of hard work. I have a couple questions about the Glock that you mentioned (all are welcome to chime in). The reliability seems pretty incredible. I hear all sorts of stories about throwing it out of airplanes and burying it in sand with the slide open and closed with no malfunctions. The accuracy is harder to get a read on. It doesn’t sound as good as what you can get with a 1911 but is okay for combat shooting. Would love to hear your opinion. Thanks.
The IZH 61 is blued steel, and so is the 1077.
Thanks, I’m right in there with the Pellgunoil.
What exactly is piston bounce? Is it the piston bouncing of the pocket of air in the chamber or bouncing off of the end of the chamber itself?
there is a new carbon fiber tank out from airhog. Heres the link:
its the warthog, I’m sure you already knew about the pigmee.
I don’t see much advantage in wight with the 88 cubic feet carbon fiber tank (it 1/3 the wight but still a bit heavy to lug around) ITS ACTUALLY IS 18 POUNDS (when full) I HAVE ONE AND I CHECKED!
The little pigmee would not be so great for my 500cc air-wolf. airhog sells falcons and it would be good for those tiny tanks. (tinny tanks for tinny guns)
You can see where I’m going with this… The 17 cubic foot tank seems like a good compromise (i do indeed hate to compromise but sometimes you must).
The larger the tank is the better the size to capacity ratio is if other conditions are the same. The original tanks with the rounded end has a better ration 9.5 or 88 cubic foot when compared to the new 17 with a flat end.
they are all all 4500 psi tanks.
heres the ratio
capacity in air cubic feet : size in cubic inches / weight full
9.5 : 38 / 4
17 : 54 /8
88 : 148 /18
Ok the 88 wins for sure.
the point I’m making is that that the 17 is twice as heavy and doesn’t hold twice the air. But it the tank i have a purpose for, even though it not the logical buy. I have already made the logical buy.
i would like to here what you think bb. Ialso thought you would want to know about it.
Thanks, I didn’t know about that one. It’s a sort of CF pony tank. That does have hunting applications, because the 88 cubic-foot tank is too big to lug around in the field.
From your words, I guess you are considering one?
That gun cleaning question is great… sounds like yet another good blog entry! I was sold some g96 to clean my barrel, but some of the spray went on the plastic cap on the end of the handle on the side lever on my rws48 – and it mottled the plastic. I don’t know if I can do anything to restore the plastic or not – or if I just have to buy a new plastic cap.
Piston bounce is when the piston rebounds from a thin cushion of high-pressure air compressed when it goes forward. Heavy pellets have too much inertia (usually) and they remain in place in the breech just long enough for the piston to come to a complete stop then rebound from the air pressure it can’t overcome.
The pellet starts moving at the same time, but it’s too late. The piston is already moving backwards and dropping the pressure of the compressed air as it goes. That robs the pellet of some of the energy that might have pushed it.
For maximum acceleration, the pellet needs to take off just as the piston is coming to a stop. That lowers the pressure of the air enough to let the piston settle against the end of the compression chamber and the pellet to get full advantage of the air compressed as much as it is possible to with a movable piston.
This is very off topic, but I want to pick out a new airgun for myself. I could use a little help, so I’ll post some requirements. I want it to shoot pretty fast, at least 850 fps with medium weight pellets. I want it to be accurate, but it doesn’t have to be extremely accurate. I’m an average shot, so most rifles will shoot better than I can. I would prefer a spring gun, and I would really like it too be under $150. A wooden stock is very nice too! Thanks in advance for the help!
Also, if possible, I would like it to have some sort of magazine/clip. This is probably going to be the hardest feature to fit in my price range.
Toothpaste (not the gell kind, but real paste) will usually take out shallow marks like you describe. For deeper ones, a fine abrasive like silver polish or, shudder, JB paste.
Okay, you didn’t give a caliber, but you won’t be able to afford a .22 at the speed you want, so it has to be .177. Now you want accuracy AND a magazine? That’s like asking for a race care that’s permanently tethered to a post so it doesn’t go very far.
Loose the magazine and there are some choices. My current flavor of the month is the RWS Diana Panther. It’s more than you want to spend, but well worth the stretch.
I hear good things on this blog about the Crosman Quest. You can get one with a scope and have a bundle left over.
I also hear nice things about the Crosman Phantom – same deal there.
The IZH MP 513M is another possibility for you. A bit on the quirky side as far as operation goes, but Russian and therefore accurate.
Gamo’s Shadow 1000 is another nice one that’s right at your price.
There are five good ones to choose from.
i am considering it but i hate the math of it (lowest efficiency of the three).
I have been researching these tanks from luxfer and carleton looking for a tank in that size range that uses the same exact design as the 88 or 9.5. NO LUCK!
I would then have to order just the valve from airhog.
I emailed you this question previously but as you rightly mention in the podcast (I love those by the way), this is the right place to get a quick answer to a specific question.
Is there any way to re-set the safety of a cocked Beeman R1 (mine built in 2001) after you snick it off?
I have often pushed off the safety expecting to take a shot at a rat only to miss my opportunity. Then it’s not very convenient (or safe) to have to leave it off whilst you wait for who knows how long for that rat to present another opportunity.
If anyone knows of some secret trick to accomplish this, I know it will be you.
that guy – if you look around at auction sites and so on, you might be able to find a “Shadowmatic” for sale. I believe these have been discontinued, so you’d be getting used or NOS.
It is basically a Shadow with an in-line magazine. As I understand it, the mag can only be used with wadcutters (anything else can be loaded singly). I’ve read that it is slightly detuned from a regular Shadow, that I don’t know.
Of course, you wouldn’t be getting a wood stock.
i have a tech force 89 because i loved your review of it, and i do like the gun, but i can’t stand how much noise it makes when i cock it…it sounds like something in the cocking linkage area isn’t agreeing with another part…but you didn’t say anything about noisy cocking in your review…the firing behavior is amazing for the price i paid…but, should i return it for another one, or should i try and get it tuned(will they all be like this?)
also, a ? for everyone…does anyone know someone that will tune the tech force 89 contender…no, charlie da tuna won’t do it…he doesn’t like the guns a whole lot.
thanks for everything.
The final action of breaking the barrel sets the safety, so to re-set, just break the barrel all the way again. Once you see how it works, you’ll wonder why you never thought of it.
Your rifle must have a dry mainspring. A few drops of good oil on the spring through the cockjng slot will solve that, after cocking and firing a couple dozen times to spread the oil.
A lot has been written for the IZH 61. What about the IZH 60? B.B. you say that single shots are more accurate and IZH 61 is an accurate gun with a magazine. What about the same gun with out one?
I tested the model 60 rifle years ago and found it to be very accurate. I think it will be even more so, because of the sloppy fit of the new plastic magazines for the 61.
If I get the opportunity, I will test the new 60.
DED, how bad is it? I’ve got a couple of AR1000’s (the model that the TF89 is based on), and the cocking cycle isn’t as smooth as any of my Gamo’s (but the firing cycle is much better!). What are you comparing it to? What sort of noise is it making – “storm door” graunching or metal-on-metal gouging?
Also, I might suggest that you make up a mixture of moly powder or paste (30-50%) and oil, and use a few drops of that in the cocking slot.
i can’t describe the noise, but i took a look at the gun last night, and it has a dry, and RUSTY main spring.
but i agree, the firing cycle is a lot better than the cocking.
the only problem with that is i would have to remove the stock, and i can’t take out the screw behind the trigger guard…it’s in too hard. any advise?
This is a bit off topic but I recently purchased the HW50 from Pyramyd and found it to be a bit noisy and had some vibration so I got a tune kit from JM, I used a ceramic stone and cratex wheels to smooth all sharp edges and rough surfaces. Moly on the piston seal, cocking bearing, barrel hinge, ect and JM’s black tar on the spring and guide. Now after a few hundred shots on the tune I am getting 745 fps vs 765 before w/crosman 7.9 but it is smooth as a babies %*&. The other day I came in from the woods and put the gun over the chrony again and it was going 770 fps and the gun was very cold (34-37F) after it warmed up it was back to 745. I repeated the test today and got the same results. Now I am confused. I thought the tar would thicken and slow things down, whats going on here. Just when I think I figured out were its at somebody goes and moves it.
I forgot my springer cocked for couple of days. Is this bad for the spring?
How do you mark the spot on the stock to rest your cheek without harming it?
Even though I participate in this blog only sporadicly, I read it religiously, and value the information that is so graciously offered. But there are also several other forums where I lurk on a fairly regular basis, often having to decide what is fact and what is fiction, and that’s ok.
I don’t know whether its the example you set, or the participants you attract (everyone give yourself a pat on the back,please! LOL), but this blog is always a safe haven, free from the embarrassing name calling and personal attacks. Always on track, and 99.9% reliable. And yes, a public “scene” I just witnessed on another forum prompted this entry.
Thanks for the service you and Pyramyd provide to the airgun community.
To anyone new to this blog and reading it in 2017, I can tell you that it is STILL as Pestbgone has described it.
DED, I believe you’ll find the rear trigger guard screw to be a #3 phillips… get a good driver or bit with a tip on it that’s in very good shape (not worn or rounded), and have at it.
But before you do, are you SURE it’s rust on the spring, and not just a brown coloration? If it IS rust, you might wanna call Compasseco about it before taking it apart. I don’t know how fussy they are about warranty claims, if you pop the action out of the stock they might have a problem with that.
You are 100% correct. The questions and comments on this blog are the way it should be. Honest questions honest answers, and no extra testosterone. Everyone here is helpfull, and respectfull, not trying to out do one another with what I know or what u know, but careing to share knowledge in a sport/hobby we all enjoy.
That comes from leadership and example! and we have the best with BB!!
JoeG from Jersey
i took it to this machanic i know, and he used his air powered drill…really powerful, and got it off, and after applying A LOT of oil, it now is almost as smooth as my turbo tuned g1 extreme…it just has this one rough spot in the middle that i can deal with…thanks a bunch vince and bb.
so, when can we expect the super streak review?!?!?!?
Ah, yes. The Super Streak. Well, I’m waiting until the real delivery date emerges. I don’t want to create a bunch of phone calls to Pyramyd Air by touting a gun that they can’t get.
The target delivery date to Pyramyd is now the 19th of this month, but it has slipped a couple of times.
Don’t worry, this thing is staring me in the face every day and I will be glad to blog it as early as I can. I think (from an accuracy standpoint, it will be worth the wait.
Your velocity results are not what I would expect from testing I’ve done. I’ve cooled springers down to zero degrees F and seen their velocity decrease every time. But at 34 degrees I don’t think the gun is cold enough to have that reaction.
It sounds to me like your pellet may be undersized for the bore, and that when the barrel gets cold it may shrink enough to make a difference. I would try other pellets in the gun to see if there isn’t a better one.
Leaving a gun cocked for days isn’t good, but it probably isn’t as bad as you think. I did a test called the Mainspring Failure Test for my R1 book and I left 4 different mainsprings cocked for an entire month. I shot them periodically during that time and graphed the results.
The facxtory mainspring lost and gained power for the first 29 hours, but after that, it lost power steadily. By hour 51 it was running at 99.6 percent of its original energy.
You mark a spot on the stock with painter’s tape. Here in the U.S. we have a tape that doesn’t stick to much of anything. It’s perfect for marking a spot on the stock because you can feel it with your cheek.
Your comment about this blog means a lot to me.
When Edith and I shut down the Airgun Letter Forum we were the most active forum on the internet. Imagine the Yellow Forum times five!
We couldn’t keep up will all the squabbling and name-calling, so we shut it down instead. That was after about two straight years of spending 15 hours a day monitoring the forum to the best of our ability.
When we started this blog, we all agreed that it could never degenerate into the same mess our forum had, so through the Blogger software we put certain controls in place. I had to use those controls when the old Talon Owner;’s Group tried to hijack the blog sometime back, and they worked. Also, the readers jumped in and proved they were tougher than a bunch of rowdies with poison pens.
As far as I am concerned, nobody knows everything and we all are entitled to not only our opinions but also our cultural heritage and our personal tastes. This blog is here to help with airgunning, period. Where a guy comes from or the fact that he hates PCPs (or ONLY shoots them) is beside the point.
DED, when you say “rough spot” do you mean a “tight spot”? Do you also feel it when returning the barrel back to its shooting position after it’s cocked?
Reason I’m asking is this – my Walther Force 1000 (same gun) had a tight spot like that – turned out to be a cocking slot that was a wee bit narrower in the middle. Very easy to fix.
I currently have you on my goggle home page via rss feed, hence I am able to keep up with review, advice etc. on a daily basis. However, I find it difficult sometimes to find your reviews, opinions etc. from back issues. Do you or Pyramid air have a index of all your Blogs?
PS The bleeding is slowly stopping and I am looking forward to receiving my son’s IZH 61 (I hope the little fellow gets a chance to shoot it). By the way you forgot to mention my new Chrony. Take care
Sticking to the high road can be very difficult at times. The internet provides that degree of anonymity and insulation where some folks will say things they wouldn’t dream of saying face to face. Respect for other people’s idiosyncrasies and opinions is sometimes lost.
I am very sorry to hear how the Airgun Letter Forum ended, and I can appreciate how painful a decision it must have been.
BUT, you’ve got a serious winner here and we all love it. BTW, the podcasts are great, too!
I pretty much only shoot pcps and i tell people that so they know what knowledge and experience i will have.
yea, it is a tight spot, and i do feel it both ways…what can i use to fix that?
thanks for your help…without your info i probably would’ve returned the gun.
I once made a 6-month index to the back blogs, but people found it too confusing to use. Let’s face it, With 720 of anything, there is no easy way to find something except by a database search, which is what the search function does. It may produce lengthy results, but it works.
I have no complaints about you. You tell it like it is. But I have other readers who feel the same about springers. That’s all I was saying.
DED, email me at firstname.lastname@example.org, and I’ll walk you through it.
B.B. and PestBGone,
I echo your sentiments.
There is a wonderful atmosphere here, and B.B. I applaud you for your excellent tutelage and patience.
I lurk more often than not now, unless I am moved to question or repond, like now. I feel like I’ve learned so much, and still have lots to learn. Its nice to be able to blog with such unselfish gentlemen, and that includes everyone.
Thanks for your efforts, and happy shooting.
Have any comercial spring guns ever incorperated a harmonics tuning device. Something like Brownings BOSS. It seems that most of the problems with spring guns are the vibrations. It seems obvios to put a devvice on to work with the vibrations.
Also has anyone ever made a double barrel double piston spring gun? Just curiuos. Thanks.
Nate in Mass
This is OT …….
Just wanted to know if you’ll be doing any kind of report on LASSO.
I can’t think of any GUN that ever came with a vibration tuning device, but Vortek (the gas spring people) made an add-on adjustable muzzle brake for the Beeman R1. I have one mounted on my R1. It has a weight that moves via click detents, and it’s pretty snazzy.
Dennis Quackenbush also made a weight for the Beeman Kodiak that I tested for The Airgun Letter. It worked very well, and was a much heavier weight (than the Vortek unit) that adjusted by screw threads.
I want to do an article. I took many short films of the guns being shot and I want to show that, as well.
Were you there?
Thanks BB. Appreciate it.
Nope I wan’nt.
I purchased a SS100T and the 22cal barrel fit so loose it rattled even after the set screw was very tight. Got it replaced and it had the same issue.
Will be interesting to see your results when you test the 22cal barrel. Everything else about the gun was fine. The 177 cal barrel seemed to shoot OK. Not as good as your results but that could be me.
Your barrel looseness issue with the Beeman 1000H raises an important point. People unfamiliar with the production process assume that manufactured parts will all fit perfectly, while the reverse is often the truth.
It’s easy for an outsider to say, “They should just get a CNC machine. That would fix the problem.” Well sometimes it would and other times not. To make parts that all fit well is a science that takes a lot of study and effort. When it works as we all think it should, we don’t even notice it, because we expect no less. When it doesn’t work we are irate.
I think you have nominated a blog or two.
I picked up a Beeman RS2 and it shoots pretty good (after I swapped out the scope mounts). I was thinking of doing a muzzle brake but – how do you get the front sight off? Is it just pressed on plastic or is it formed around the barrel? Don’t want to take a hack saw to it if there is a better way… Thanks folks!
There are three Allen screws holding the brake on. They are on the bottom of the brake, as it sits on the barrel.
I like this gun (Beeman RS2)!!!
The brake really isn’t the issue. My gun has a plastic sight on the muzzle and I need to make it go away before I can do the brake. I don’t want to “chop” the sight off and end up with a nasty looking barrel. Any ides?
Thanks and have a good one.
I sure don’t. The manual online only covers barrel changing and I can’t see the details of the sight. Is it molded to the muzzle brake? If so, the entire brake will have to come off. I assume you’ve looked for a screw and found none.
This may not be possible.
I just bought a Beeman Elkhorn DC and have been reading many of your posts and other airgunners blogs trying to figure out if I should clean this puppy before i shoot it! Many say yes cleaning all the (chinese gunk) out of it will help with break in time, others say no just shoot it! I dont want to use a rod and brush because of the chance of bore damage, I have heard you can use weedeater line with a cleaning patch and some MP5 oil on it and it will do the job just fine without any risk of damaging the bore. Whats your opinion on this?
Welcome to the blog.
I’m not familiar with your rifle but I assume the barrel is steel. If so you can clean it with a steel rod, a brass brush and JB Non Embedding Bore Cleaning Compound. Push and pull the brush through the bore 20 times each way, then clean the residue.
But I wouldn’t clean it. I would just shoot it. A thousand shots is the same as a good cleaning.