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Education / Training Testing the Crosman 2200 – Part 3

Testing the Crosman 2200 – Part 3

by B.B. Pelletier

Part 1
Part 2

Today, I’ll look at accuracy with the 2200, and I also promised another velocity test. The gun has more shots through it now, and we wanted to see if heating or break-in was responsible for the velocity increase seen during testing last time.

The scope
I was interested in the best accuracy the rifle could offer, so I scoped it, though that really would not be my preference. With a scope on top of the receiver, the rifle is harder to pump because your other hand has to hold it at the pistol grip. That separation of hands makes you work harder to close the pump lever.

Leapers 3-9 doesn’t overpower the rifle. The loading port on the side makes a one-piece mount possible.

I selected a Leapers 3-9×40 illuminated scope for this test. I selected it mostly because of the 13.5-inch length of this standard-sized scope than anything else, though I must remark that this scope has a finer reticle than many Leapers scopes. The optics are very clear, plus my lighting was nearly ideal for this test. The range was 25 yards, and 9x is close to optimum for that range.

I also discovered how to load the 2200 so that pellets never turn around. They load perfectly this way. Hold the rifle normally, instead of tipping it on its left side to see the loading port. Place the pellet on the rounded loading port side and roll it into the port. At some point the pellet will jump from your hand because you can’t hold it any longer. When it does, it’s in perfect alignment! Remember, hold the rifle level!

Here we go!
Two shots to sight-in and the pellets were on paper at 25 yards. I decided to stop at 8 pumps instead of 10 because the pumping was so difficult. The first shots landed low and in line with the bull, and a few clicks of elevation got me into the black.

The first 5-shot group was about one inch, but the next one went into one hole that measures 0.42 inches. The rifle seems to want to be accurate and will lob several through the same hole, then throw a couple wide. Some of the groups opened up more than I thought they should, and I guess the reason is something like the barrel crown.

Some groups looked like this one. Two shots through the center of the bull.

The best group was this one that measured 0.42″ for five Premiers at 25 yards.

I tried only Crosman Premiers. I was so fixated on them for the velocity test that I guess I overlooked other good pellets such as JSB Exact 15.8-grain domes and some others. That means the accuracy might be better than I suspect from these results.

The velocity retest
This is the test that’s been under my skin all along. Did the 2200 start to break in and get faster in the last velocity test, or does the gun just go faster as it warms up. I waited two hours after the accuracy testing before testing for velocity again.

The drill here was 10 pumps and shoot a Crosman Premier. I’m also showing the 10-pump string from the last test that led me to this test. Remember, we want to know if my gun is breaking-in or if it’s just shooting faster because I’m warming up the pump seal with all the shooting.


The average last time on 10 pumps was 607 f.p.s. with an extreme spread of 41 f.p.s. The average this time was 612 f.p.s. with an extreme spread of 55 f.p.s.

Then, I tried pumping 2 to 10 times to see what the velocity was.

2: 354—–>342
3: 421—–>412
4: 478—–>478
5: 524—–>499
6: 558—–>553
7: 577—–>574
8: 608—–>583
9: 630—–>625
10: 613—->644

But wait!
During the pumping on this test, I thought I discovered what was behind the faster shots. It had to do with how I pumped the gun. If I pumped slow and deliberate, the gun shot slower. If I rammed the pump lever closed as fast as possible the gun shot faster. Or at least that’s what I thought. So, I tested the gun on 10 pumps:

Slow and deliberate

Rapid pump closure

But then I tried it again and got this:

Slow and deliberate

Rapid pump closure

The jury is still out on that one. I’d like any of you who own 2100 or 2200 rifles to try this and see what velocities you get.

This has been an interesting test. I never knew this old airgun had so much potential. And it still falls in the very affordable category. I paid $40 for mine.

One final note. I was also testing the work of airgunsmith Rick Willnecker in this report, because he resealed the rifle for me. I would say this last test demonstrates that his work can be quite good.

Rick Willnecker in PA. Visit his website, call him at 717-382-1481 or
email him.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

36 thoughts on “Testing the Crosman 2200 – Part 3”

  1. Good morning B.B.,

    Interesting on the fast and slow pumping. I’ll have to try that with a couple of my guns and see what happens will let you know.

    I’ve have nothing but cudos for Rick and his work. He’s done one one Crosman 180 and 1077 and two 140’s for me. Wonderful work–thanks Rick. He took the time to call me and say that one of the 140’s is his favorite year.

    Mr B.

  2. B.B.

    This reminds me of how happy I am with my Crosman 1077. The dirty secret of my shooting range is that this $65 unscoped rifle is frighteningly close in accuracy to my springers despite it’s heavy trigger.

    Mr. B and Frank B., yes, I’ve read about how important an edge guide is to sharpening and no I don’t use one. Reason? When I used the one I purchased it seemed to me that if the edge of the blade is even slightly curved then an edge guide is of no use because it will be forced out of position when you change the position of the blade to the follow the curve during your sharpening stroke. But you would think that someone would have noticed this before me if this were a real problem. I don’t get it. Mr. B, the diamond paste and strop and micrograin sandpaper can be purchased online at Lee Valley Tools. They’re good. But I would recommend consulting with Frank B. Frank, thanks for your address and no need to apologize for anything. I’ll be in touch. Sorry to hear about your back and the hassles of moving.

    Kevin, ha ha. Okay, I’m convinced about springers. Are you serious that an elk is smarter than a bear? With all of those horns on the head? I’m crushed. I always thought that bears were relatively smart. Based on things that I’ve read in the gun literature, I’ll bet you had some pretty singular customers as a guide. The habit I read of people shooting varmints with ridiculously over-powered rifles and laughing about the pieces strewn around really turns me off.


  3. BB, I have both the 2100, and a 2200B which I bought at a flea market for $35 last summer. The 2100 is the Remington Airmaster version and was purchased new.I also found no difference in velocity whether the gun was pumped slow or fast. Your 2200 does shoot faster than mine. I saw a drop of 30 to 40 fps if the guns were pumped at cold temperatures though. I had my 2200 apart. The bolt had broken and when I replaced it, I also worked on the trigger parts, and recrowned the barrel in my lathe. One other thing I did was to glue the breech block to the barrel as described in a tutorial on the Crosman forum. I have since received a new pump cup but have not installed it yet. Regardless, my 2200 averages 578 to 585 fps on eight pumps with RWS super domes. The 2100 will do 703 to 710fps with ramjets. I try to pump my gun in the same cadence each time, and I stick to eight pumps and don’t deviate from that. Both the 2100 and 2200 wear simple cheap 4X Weaver rimfire scopes(3/4″ and 7/8″, “B” and V-22 series scopes) that were also flea market finds. Not the best , but way better than the open sights, despite some paralax error. I also cannot get good accuracy with either gun using any of the harder Crosman pellets. The best accuracy came from RWS super domes in the 2200, and Beeman Ramjets in the 2100. My groups with both guns average around an 1 1/4″ with the 2200 at twenty -five yards, and the 2100 will stay in an inch. Groups with either are just ragged holes at 10 meters , shooting inside in my basement range. Both guns are excellent values in my opinion and easier to shoot well, despite the work of pumping them. I also have had very good results with Rick W. I have bought parts from him several times. Robert

  4. B.B.,

    I live in Eastern Pennsylvania and my friend and I went out with his Daisy Powerline 901 for some plinking and small game hunting yesterday. Inspired to get my own, I went online and researched multi-pump air rifles when we’d finished. (I should mention this is my first high-velocity projectile experience except for some slingshotting.)

    I think the Benjamin 397 or 392 would best suit me. I’m looking for a gun that will last for many summers, shoot with consistent accuracy, and pack a lethal punch when I turn it on smaller animals. Around here we tend to get squirrels and (big!) groundhogs, from what I’ve read, either gun will suit my needs.

    My question then is, would the 397 or the 392 be better for me?
    Does one have an edge on the other for accuracy?
    I used an impact calculator online and it showed that the 392 would pack a stronger punch because of the larger caliber despite the slower speed. Does that put the 392 in my favor?



  5. Dillon,

    Absolutely. The 392 is by far the better airgun for dispatching critters. Remember, though, that .22 pellets are more expensive than .177. Does cost of shooting mean much to you? For me it doesn’t. I like to use enough gun to get the job done.

    However, for purely plinking I would have recommended the 397.


  6. BB, You are very welcome, thank-you for a very informative blog. Compared to the forums ,this place is a haven in that wilderness of dissent, agendas, and mis-information. On the fast pumping , if enough heat could be generated by that, the gun would supposedly show variations in velocity. The way to test that would be to pump the gun up fast (assuming it’s in perfect condition) and then shoot it, and record the velocity. Then do the same , but let the gun sit awhile. I have done this. I haven’t found it to be different. I have tested this with the following guns in my collection: a LE 392, Daisy 880, Daisy SG, 2100 , 2200, Sheridan CB (rocker safety), 1400, 1300 pistol, and a HB .20 pistol. I think that the valves air capacity is so small and the guns is so large , that any heat is quickly dissipated during the pumping time. I have ,however, been able to get a gun to shoot that was in poor repair by pumping fast. I think that it was just because I fired it before the air all leaked out. So I think that the fast pumping has little effect ,and the problem with the 2200/2100 series guns is one of minor leaking at the breech barrel area and at the bolt, which is not sealed with a O-ring. This could vary from gun to gun. Some of the better guns ,like the Benji’s don’t suffer at all in my experience from velocity loss due to pumping speed. Robert.

  7. Wow, I wasn’t expecting such a lightning-fast response!

    As far as pellet cost goes, I’m willing to spend a bit to make sure that the animal doesn’t suffer. A better pellet means it’ll fly where I put it and a stronger punch means a faster death. Do you have any recommendations for a .22 pellet that would fit that bill? What about an accurate economy-priced pellet for plinking?



  8. I remember my crosman pump from years ago, great rifle. Hunting rabbits with a 600 fps 177 was so much easier back then…
    Will putting a ldc on a pcp affect accuracy or velocity?

  9. Dillon,

    it really depends on the range you shoot at for what type of accuracy you’re looking for. For plinking – hitting tin cans and such from about 20 feet away, almost any pellet will do – use whatever is on sale. For accuracy – about 25 yards away and tight groups of 5 shots, I’ve found that I get very acceptable results with the RWS Super H and Superdomes and Benjamin/Crosman Premiers but for putting really tight groups together, JSB Exact Diablos seem to be the winner and are also the most expensive. All of these are domed pellets – no pointy tip or hollow point. As for kill competency, I don’t believe it matters whether the pellet is pointed, hollow or domed. You always want to go for a headshot for a clean, humane kill. Consider rabbits, squirrels and vermin birds (crows, starlings, crackles, pigeons) to be easily dispatched by a 392 or most decent air rifles. Those huge woodchucks may be too large for the 392 and you might need to move up to a magnum springer or a PCP but others on this list have greater knowledge and experience and will chime in.

    Remember to always keep in mind what’s beyond your target – unlike King Dick Cheney (oops, politics rears it’s ugly head for the first time on this blog!).

  10. BB, I had forgotten that you did that test . The Benjamin /Sheridan pistol I think it was? Anyways, I still believe the velocity variations have to do with the quality of the gun in question and not the pumping speed. You mention the problem loading pellets and having to roll them in. On the better guns the pellet is pushed in to the same depth everytime. I have found that the 2200 is not as consistant in that regard. Perhaps the pellets are not seated the same each time? The lead in the breech of my 2200 barrel was generous. This could cause the inconsistant velocity results you got above, due to pellets being seated to varying depths. On the pellets for hunting in the 392 for Dillion above. I agree with Fred. I have used the Crosman Premiers and the RWS Super H points for hunting squirrels. The CP’s almost always completely penetrate the grey squirrels I shoot. The super H points almost never do. Both work equally as well, and result in clean kills. The CP’s though would be a bad choice if you shot through say a squirrel, and perforated an expensive bird feeder . Don’t ask how I know that. Robert

  11. B.B.,

    I have been shooting and enjoying the .177 P1 per your and a reader’s recommendation. I have shot about 600 shots over the past couple weeks and have tried an initial batch of 7 types/brands of pellets.

    By using athletic tape as an interface between the scope clamps and the gun, I have successfully stalled any scope creep 100%.

    For background on my great handgun skills :), from 10 meters sitting using the best unsorted pellets I will consistently shoot 8-shot 3/4″ – 7/8″ groups with my other pistol, the Beretta .177. You suggested that I try the P1 for better accuracy and for small critter hunting at close range.

    The 7-shot 10 meter groups that I consistently achieve with the different pellets shooting the P1 range from about 2″ using crossman ultra mags (10.5) and jsb exact (8.3-8.6) down to the R-10 Match (8.2) which achieved 9/16″ – 7/8.”

    The sitting position that I have now adopted to help my back feel good when shooting feels rock solid. With my most accurate air rifles at this distance I am 20-30% putting pellets through the same pellet hole (ctc 0″ or 1/16″).

    So I am wondering why I am often getting 3/4″ groups with the P1, which is only 1/4″ better than the beretta. I am using a 5X scope on the P1 and the crosshairs seem steady.

    I have been using 2x scope with the Beretta and suspect that I might even get groups closer to 3/4″ when using a 5x scope. This would make it about as accurate as the P1.

    Even with the 5x scope, I cannot read the numbers on the Gamo targets, but I know if I am steady.

    I am wondering if this P1 gun which I bought used is not quite as accurate as it should be or whether I need more practice. It was reportedly tuned by David Slade and runs about 60 fps slower than most stock P1’s.

    The previous owner for some reason never shot it and so he could not report on any accuracy (he is a gun dealer on the internet). I know that nobody would sell their most accurate P1 (he had extras) and so I imagine that this is just not an accurate model, but I don’t know.

    I read the report that you wrote (2x) some time back, and all the reader comments.

    Thank you, B.B. (or anyone else who has owned one of these P1s).

    – Dr. G.

  12. Hmm, taking your comment about the woodchucks to heart I did a little bit more looking around. Every spring the big guy under our shed rears his head and even my German Shepard mix is afraid to go near him so I’d like to be able to get rid of him this year.

    I know that Benjamin seems to have a solid reputation (for the 392/397 at least) but all of that pumping makes me a little anxious about the number of shots I could take before needing to take a break.

    My thinking was that a break barrel would make it a bit easier on my arm while increasing speed and, potentially, power. Do you know of any break barrels at the same (or less) price point that would be able to do the job?

    Basically, the points of interest are these:

    1) Reliable (something Benjamins are famous for)
    2) Quiet (I checked out the Winchester 1000SB, it seemed a bit too loud for my suburban locale)
    3) Affordable
    4) There’s something I like a lot about looking down a scope, so it would be a preference. I know one has to jump through hoops to put a scope on a 392 and even then the peep sight is better.

    I hate to ask all of these questions of you but I didn’t expect to be able to communicate directly with someone so knowledgeable so I can’t resist the opportunity.

    Thanks again,


  13. Dillon…
    You can wack a pretty big chuck with a shot square to the side of the head with a lot of airguns. Right between the eye and the ear.

    Problem is that if it hits at an angle it will deflect instead of penetrating.

    They have hard heads. The more power you hit them with, the better your chances will be of a good kill.

    The long toothed buggers can be a real nuisance in places were you need to be very quiet because of laws and neighbors. They seem to know where they are safe…even right under your front porch.

    If all else fails you could chuck a gas bomb down his hole, or back your car up close and stick a big hose in the exhaust pipe…..then stuff it down the hole and monoxide the critter to death.


  14. Ah, you’ve asked the same question that we all ask when we first get into air gunning.
    It’s also been discussed in depth over the years on this blog.
    There are a number of factors to consider – you’ve covered loudness, hunting
    (.22 cal recommended for more transfer of energy to the prey) and your approximate price point (Benj 392).
    If you can swing it, almost everyone will recommend going for the RWS 34 as the entry level breakbarrel.
    It’s in the $200 plus range and has good dependability and an adjustable trigger and sights.
    It’s a bit on the loud side but if your neighbors are not on top of you, they shouldn’t mind as
    it’s about as loud as a loud clap – the type that the moron sitting behind you at a sporting
    event does that can get your ears ringing. It will accept a scope but here you will need to
    consider an additional piece – a Leapers scope ramp. It adjusts for what is called “barrel droop”
    on this line (the barrel points lower than expected) and will hold the scope in place from the fierce
    recoil this power rifle gives. Keep in mind a springer takes time to learn to shoot accurately
    (do a search on the “artillery hold” on the Blog).

    There are cheaper alternatives but like everything else, you get what you pay for.
    The Crosman line of rifles has had pretty good reviews and there’s a re-manufactured one at
    Pyramyd right now. Check out


    Gamo also has a nice line that are inexpensive and their Whisper 1000 isn’t bad.
    I have heard some poor experiences however with their springs but can offer no personal views.

    What you should do is use the search function on the Blog and see what’s been said on this topic for
    the last several years. Also, the Pyramyd AIR website has a “help me choose” function which can serve you well.

    I wish you luck and advise you to read the Blog – backdates as well – to learn a ton of information on air rifles.
    One last caution – it may be against the law to discharge a rifle or gun in your town and you should check with the law.
    However, if you have an unfriendly neighbor who happens to see you walking around the yard with a rifle,
    let alone a scoped rifle, you can count on an unfriendly visit from John Law. Be careful and be wise.


  15. Dillon,

    You’ve received alot of good advice already from some very experienced airgunners.

    I’ll give you my two cents.

    Your criteria for an airgun, in your price range allows you many choices UNTIL you say you want to kill your one woodchuck. As has already been stated, a woodchuck is a thick skulled, hefty pest. You need power in at least .22 caliber. The Benjamin 392 can do it at close range. Some of the break barrels can also do the job at close range but they require significantly more technique to shoot accurately than the Benjamin 392/397.

    IF you still want the next airgun you buy to be able to kill a woodchuck, don’t worry about “all of that pumping making you a little anxious about the number of shots you could take before needing to take a break.” No matter which gun you choose, you will be waiting quietly, close to the woodchucks hideout and waiting for the one shot you will get. You will have plenty of time to cock your break barrel and re-load or to pump your 392 eight times before Mr Woodchuck gives you another chance at a shot.

    My vote is the Benjamin 392, given all your criteria. Once you receive the gun, try many pellets to discover the most accurate. Learn the maximum distance that you can put 5 shots into a one inch circle with eight pumps in your gun. When you can consistently put 5 shots into a one inch circle, stake out Mr Woodchuck but stay within your maximum distance of accuracy.


  16. Dr. G.,

    Well, you are using pellets in the P1 that I never tried. Try 7.9-grain Crosman Premiers in the cardboard box.

    I don’t use a scope and get 5-shot groups at 33 feet that can be covered by a dime. Your groups with the Beretta indicate you are a good shot, so I see no reason why you can’t do as well as me.

    Have you tried holding the P1 my way? It’s the way a target shooter holds a 1911 for a bullseye match. See this report:



  17. Dillon,

    Pumping a 392 isn’t that hard. It won’t wear you out, as you fear. Instead, what it does is slow you down, so everything you do is deliberate.

    I shoot a lot of blackpowder guns and a lot of single-shot guns because they also slow me down. I find I do my best work when I shoot slower.

    You raise the issue of a spring rifle. They can be wonderful, too, as long as you buy them because you really want one, and not as an escape from a multi-pump like the 392.

    One final consideration. What altitude do you live and shoot at? If it’s over 4,000 feet. we need to talk some more.


  18. Jersey John,

    If anything touches the pellet after it leaves the muzzle, all accuracy is lost. Daystate has a reputation for putting off-center silencers on their guns and drilling the exit holes too small. I have encountered this many times on many different Daystates. The solution has always been to drill the hole larger, which is what I had to do on my Daystate Harrier.

    If your silencer is made right and fitted properly it won’t affect accuracy. I actually tested a legal firearm silencer that way on a Ruger 10/22 for an article I wrote for Shotgun News.

    If, however, the pellet touches the inside of the “LDC”/silencer on the way out, as I have seen on dozens of homemade devices, accuracy will suffer.


  19. Hi B.B.,

    JH here, from 7/12/07 comments on 11/06 2200 report.

    Some comments on your current tests ……..

    I haven’t used Rick W., But I have used your other recommendation, John G, whom I’ve found to be honest, fair, and an excellent craftsman as well.

    Glad to see you finally had the 2200 Chrome model repaired. Mine is one of the last black models, and a shooter, despite the pumping.

    A 6×32 Bug Buster gives a smidgen more room on the back of the receiver, for pumping, and from a rest puts 10 pellets into a one inch circle at 35 yards with ten pumps using Crosman pellets, domes points and hollow-points, with lots of practice.

    The infernal flyer, or barrel wiggle-waggle, is caused by the OD of the barrel being a hair narrower than the ID of the end-sight. I solved that problem with the help of Joe McAllister of Muzzle Mack, who makes a delrin insert for the 1077, 2100, and 2200. You tap out the end-sight, tap in the insert, and leave as is or tap in the end-sight on top of the insert. Voila! No more wacky flyers.

    My loading trick, for 2100 and for 2200. Cock the bolt; hold the receiver in your right hand; roll the top of the receiver away from you and downward; the top inside of the receiver now forms a ledge; insert the pellet with your left hand onto the ledge; slowly roll the top of the receiver up and towards you; when the receiver reaches just past the halfway point the pellet rolls into the loading channel; close the cocking mechanism; works every time.

    Have fun with the rest of your tests.

  20. B.B.

    I’m only at 300-600 feet above sea level.

    I have to admit that I’m pretty attracted to the springers. I think my interest in a multi-pump pneumatic was because my first exposure to air gunning was my friends pump Daisy Powerline 901. By nature I am a very patient person and even with a springer like the Diana RWS 34 (the gun I am currently favoring) I am confident that I would do my best to make my shots count; when precision is required, I do my best to deliver no matter the time taken.

    I have had some time off and I spent the last four days or so researching and checking around. After calling the local police department I learned that local laws only allow air guns of any sort to be used on private property where the pellet can be controlled [stay on the property.] Otherwise I can use it at any firing range. I dialed up the PA Game Commission as well and was informed that air gun hunting of any kind on any property in Pennsylvania is “unlawful.” Apparently this rings true for New Jersey too, which is a mere 10 minute drive East. This is a sorry blow to my woodchuck (and other small game) aspirations but I won’t allow it to shake my interest.

    This means my focus is somewhat shifted. Now I will be spending considerably more time plinking and target shooting but I want to have a gun that will perform admirably if I take a trip out of state and can go air hunting elsewhere.

    After reading your (and others’) reviews I am favoring the Diana RWS 34 with the Leapers 5th Gen 3-9×40 Mil Dot scope you recommended and I would pick up a Gamo pellet trap (the $17 one) that Pyramyd AIR sells. That way I target shoot without going to a range. Because I want versatility I’m still favoring the .22 version.

    What do you think of this selection?
    Have I covered everything I need? (Rings? Mount?)

    Everyone’s assistance has been unbelievably helpful. It’s such a rare opportunity to have access to responsive experts with such passion. I can’t thank you all enough!


  21. Dillon,

    Ref your pellet trap – I would recommend something heavier than the gamo cone trap. I have that trap and my Crosman G1 beat it to death. The Diana 34 has roughly the same energy as the G1.

    I recommend a heavy duty metal bullet trap. It’s alot more expensive and heavier to ship, though. It will hold an 8 1/2″ x 11″ piece of paper (landscape). I print my own targets out of card stock.

    Another trick is to tape old business cards to a piece of copy paper. They are the same thickness as the card stock, and leave a nice clean hole. Use a marker to draw an aiming spot on the back or aim at different letters on the front.

    Word verification is “meters”.

  22. Randy,

    It’s the Gamo Cone Pellet Trap:

    I was worried that it might be a bit light for a .22 at that speed.

    I suppose the next best thing would be the Champion Heavy Duty Metal Trap:

    That advice is great though because you just saved me about $20 with shipping.


  23. Dillon,

    I second Randy-in-Va’s suggestion. Get a bullet trap. The gamo cone trap will be shot out in short order. I had one. The bullet trap shooting even high powered pellet guns will last you a lifetime if you keep them out of the weather (rusting). Good investment and can be made quiet (neighbor friendly) with phone books or with duct seal (available at your local home depot or lowes or online).


  24. I hate to digress further but I'm wondering if anyone has thoughts on these "bullet" traps:

    My interest obviously stems from the pricepoint being half of the heavy duty one above. [Gun + Scope + Scope Mount/Rings + Trap] is a hefty entrance fee and though I'm passionate and willing to spend what must be spent I want to be thrifty if it won't bite me in the end.


  25. Dillon,

    That Champion bullet trap on Ebay is identical to the one Pyramyd AIR sells. The guy on Ebay must not be a storefront business, which is why he can cut out all his profit.

    The Do-All bullet box is also a good trap. I like that it comes knocked-down for a smaller box.

    Just know that either of these traps will make a lot of noise when hit by a pellet. Factor that into your shooting plans.

    Your choice of guns is ideal.


  26. Dillon & BB – I've also got the Do-All trap. Ive heard that you can make it quieter with two sandbags. Fill them and put the trap on one and put one on the back of the trap to dampen a lot of the sound. I use it my garage, so noise isn't a problem.

  27. Dillon, yes to what everyone says about the Gamo trap. It’s weak and tiny. The Do-All or Champion traps will last longer than either of us! Obviously, though, make sure you use a large enough backstop so that no one can complain about errant pellets from a clean miss.

    I’ve got the Do-All, and it wasn’t hard to assemble. The cheapest I’ve seen is a wee bit cheaper than the Ebay sellers, although I’m not sure what happens when you factor in shipping.

  28. is it inhumane to pump up my crosman 2100 classic, 20 times, load it with 5 – 10 steel BB's, and shoot common gray squirrels? it usually makes a great splatter pattern, but it's illegal in this town to shoot squirrels within city limits.. niceville, florida

    however, my true question is:

    can somebody test some of the velocities when you exceed the recommended number of pumps? is there a big increase in velocity? does the projectile stay sub-sonic? how much energy will be put onto my squirrel's little peanut?

  29. Anonymous with the Crosman 2100,

    I have a Remington Airmaster which is identical to your gun.

    If it's illegal to shoot squirrels within your City limits, don't do it with any gun. Airguns are about fun. Meeting your local police, receiving a ticket (going to jail?), getting fined, loosing your gun, appearing in court, having a record, paying attorneys fees and wasting all that time is not fun.

    It is inhumane to load 5-10 bb's in your crosman 2100 and shoot at squirrels. The pattern is too unpredictable. A well placed shot with a single pellet, not a bb (your rifle is capable of both) is always preferable to "spraying and praying" for a clean, humane kill.

    Any additional pumps in your gun past 10 pumps will not result in a significant increase in power but will almost guarantee that you will damage your rifle (valve) in very short order. No matter how many pumps you put in your gun the projectile will be sub-sonic. My gun on 10 pumps shoots crosman premier 7.9 gr pellets at 630fps.


    Please shoot responsibly. Your actions potentially affect all airgunners.


  30. Good report!

    I also have one of the older "Chromed" 2200's.

    I did a trigger job on mine which improved accuracy immensely.

    I learned how to do it from an old Ladd Fanta article on adjusting airgun triggers. Applied it to my 2200, Model 1 and 1300 pistol.

    Basically, you simply solder a small (I used 4-40 size) nut onto the side of the sear, you can now put a screw through the nut, and advance it until it contacts the bottom of the pump-tube. Screwing it in further will pull the sear away from the hammer, lightening the trigger-pull and reducing the travel.

    My 2200 seems to like Gamo-Match pells and will group around 1" for 5 shots at 28 yds consistently.

    That's open sights (William's rear sight, same one that the Model 1 uses) and my old eyes.

    That trigger job is definitely worth the trouble to effect.

    Mine shoots a little under 600 fps (abt 590, if memory serves).

    These are capable guns…

  31. Trigger job:

    Hello, I have the Remington 77 airpaster, which is a re-branded version of this rifle. I use it for pest control and have been trying to get an idea on how to do a trigger job. To the poster above- can you provide me with any more info? I would be most grateful. thanks 🙂

  32. Duncand,

    You probably noticed that "trigger job" aka Skillet posted his comment on November 4, 2009 and hasn't been back since.

    I have two suggestions to help you with directions for a trigger job on your Crosman 2200:

    1-Go to the current blog and re-post your question. I'll give you a link that will always take you to the most recent article written by B.B. Just like this article, go to the bottom, click on comments and ask your question. Don't worry if it has nothing to do with the subject we talk about everything airguns daily and it may or may not dovetail with the current article. Here's the link:


    2-Go to the crosman forum and ask your question. Many people know about Jeff Wolgast that perfected the mods for the 2200. Here's the link:



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