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Education / Training Disassembling and assembling a TX200

Disassembling and assembling a TX200

by B.B. Pelletier

I’m doing this report for Slinging Lead so he can see what the inside of his TX200 looks like. The work to disassemble and take photos took a total of 30 minutes, so that will be how long a disassembly should take after the first time.

Step 1- remove the action from the stock
First, we’ll remove the action from the stock. If you have a scope mounted, take it off to make this easier. I use a sandbag bench rest to hold the rifle while I’m working on it, but you can rig up something with old rags or towels.

Four screws hold the action in the stock. Remove the two forearm screws first, then flip the rifle on its back and remove the two triggerguard screws. No special order for this. Next, separate the stock from the action.


Remove both forearm stock screws.


The triggerguard is held by two different-sized screws. The back one is the same size as the stock screw, but the front one is larger.


When the last stock screw comes out, the action will separate from the stock.


The action is out of the stock.

Step 2- remove the restraining bolt
In this step, you’ll take all the preload tension off the mainspring. The trigger housing will be pushed backward about three-quarters of an inch. This is the step where a mainspring compressor is needed for most spring rifles, but not for the TX200.


This bolt in front of the trigger housing is what holds the action together. It has a flat on either side to accept a wrench.


You don’t need a 12-inch Crescent wrench like this to start the bolt. It was simply handy.


Once the bolt has been started, you can hand-turn it the rest of the way. Put a little tension on the back of the trigger housing by pressing straight down on the action. In this photo, the back of the trigger housing is pressed against the table.


When the bolt releases, the trigger housing will move backward about 3/4″. It’s under 15-20 lbs. of force. To show this movement, I relaxed tension on the action.


The trigger housing slides straight out the back of the gun.


The mainspring and spring guide with washer comes out next.

Step 3- slide out the piston and you’re done
The next “step” is really just a continuation of what we’ve been doing. The piston is not held in the gun by anything at this point, but I’m showing you how to push it out with a small screwdriver.


I’m showing where to push with a screwdriver blade to slide out the piston, but nothing holds it in. It’ll come out all by itself.


And there’s the piston.

One more thing
You can do a mainspring replacement, a lube tune or a piston seal replacement with just this much disassembly. There’s really no need to go any farther. However, the sliding compression chamber will not come out of the gun at this point. One more thing must be done to take it out.


This is where the underlever is attached to the cocking link. That circular pin near the bottom center of the picture needs to come out if you want to remove the sliding compression chamber. The pin has a circlip on either side. Pop off one of them and push the pin out the other way.

When the link is separated from the underlever, it’s possible to slide the compression chamber to the point at which the cocking link can be disconnected from the sliding chamber. I have not gone that far here and doubt I’ve ever taken the chamber out of this rifle because there’s just no need to.

Please don’t start sending me lists of other airguns you want to disassemble. The TX200 is so simple that I didn’t mind showing it here. Other guns can require four times the work to achieve the same goal. The ironic thing is that the TX is one of the few airguns that ever need to be disassembled in the first place.

Yes, I’m going to tell you to assemble the rifle in reverse order because there simply are no tips needed to put it back together. Naturally, you’ll have to press down on the action to get the bolt hole in the trigger housing to align, but isn’t that obvious? Once you’ve done this job yourself, you’ll agree with me.

author avatar
Tom Gaylord (B.B. Pelletier)
Tom Gaylord, also known as B.B. Pelletier, provides expert insights to airgunners all over the world on behalf of Pyramyd AIR. He has earned the title The Godfather of Airguns™ for his contributions to the industry, spending many years with AirForce Airguns and starting magazines dedicated to the sport such as Airgun Illustrated.

74 thoughts on “Disassembling and assembling a TX200”

  1. 3/4" preload, and still produces respectable energy with a manageable cocking effort. I love guns like that… darned easy to service as well as shoot.

    You really want me to get one of these, don't you???

  2. Seems like this tops the list as a good short range (as opposed to firearm range) "survival" gun. A little pricey, but with the right minimal spare parts around (spring, guide, etc.), you could keep this puppy singing during one's lifetime.

  3. B.B.,

    Near the end you said, "The ironic thing is that the TX is one of the few airguns that ever need to be disassembled in the first place."

    Did you really mean "ever" or was it "never"?

    Now if only you'll do one like this for the RWS Diana 54… :-))


  4. AlanL, I can't help with the 54 – but would a breakdown of the 48/52 help? I could do one of those and submit it to BB pretty quickly. Powerplant would be the same, obviously. The sled mechanism wouldn't be covered, of course…

  5. Tom, off topic. Do you have a link to how to change the barrel on a Beeman RX-1? I'd like to buy a .22 barrel (with the linkage already installed, so as to make swapping easier) and gain some Fpe over my .177

  6. AlanL,

    I meant "ever," not never. There is nothing made by man that never needs repair.

    As for your RWS 54, which is a smoother shooter, by the way, you don't need to be thinking about disassembly for a decade of hard shooting. You have a near-bulletproof airgun there.


  7. BB – That's good to hear about Alan's 54 and the decade of hard shooting before it will need to be worked on. I'm thinking the same applies to a 52, which I'll quickly comment on. I've got 500 shots through mine now and I can't believe how easy it has gotten to cock. I scoped it over the weekend and shot the remains of a tin of RWS Superdomes and was easily getting one-holers at ten yards. The weight of the gun really helps absorb the recoil and makes this a real smooth shooter, smoother than my 34, and with lots of extra power!!! It's easier for me to shoot this gun more accurately off-hand than it is the discovery (probably becase of the weight, the disco still wins when rested though). I can't wait to get her outside and strech it out to some longer distances.

    RWS 52 happy in MI,


  8. Vince

    You know that miserable loneliness you sometimes feel late in the night? The horrible emptiness? Get the TX. Everything will be rainbows, unicorns and lemon drops from there on out.

    I have half a mind (no jokes) to jump a plane with TeX and crash you and derrick38's shooting party. But then stockyard workers treat their herd better than the TSA does ticketholders at the martial-law aerial deployment depots that we call airports, so… you are safe for now.

  9. BB

    Thanks for the easter egg. Hope I didn't open a can of worms, or the floodgates or whatever.

    "Here comes BB cottontail, hoppin' down the bunnytrail, hippity hoppity…"

  10. Slinging Lead – hate to disappoint you, but I don't get that sorta loneliness. I'm way too busy telling myself over and over: "I do NOT have too many guns. I am NOT spending too much money. It's NORMAL to need a new cabinet every 2 months."

    Aaron, I've never owned an RWS sidelever from new, but I can tell you this – I did put a new RWS spring in my .22 cal '48 – and it outpowered my 350 for about 50-100 shots or so. It took, relatively speaking, a LONG time for that spring to finally stop setting. When it did the power was where it should be, but (as you noted) the cocking was certainly easier.

  11. Aaron

    I read with interest your post about the 52. I also have a 52 (mine is .22) and a Discovery in .177 as I believe yours is. They are polar opposites and a perfect complement to each other I think. A svelte, lightweight pcp with negligible recoil and a cool but somewhat basic construction. And an easy cocking, magnum powered, accurate hunting springer with easily manageable recoil and exceptional fit and finish. The farthest I have shot my 52 is 40 yards and it did well, despite trying conditions.


    It was VOLVO and derrick's shooting party. Sorry. Too many conversations going on for me to keep track of. Maybe we can both crash it!

  12. B.B.,

    Thanks for the reassurance on the 54.


    Thanks for the link.


    The more info the better. I would be very glad to have your breakdown instructions. But I don't want to put you to any extra trouble…


  13. TX200 note–just a reminder that ALL the fasteners are metric. The stock screws and the rear trigger guard screw require a 3mm wrench and the front trigger guard screw takes a 5mm.

    We're having a party? I'm just going as Volvo's rifle bearer. Every time he takes a shot it's my job to say, "Excellent shooooooting, Major!" in my best British accent.

  14. SL,

    Sounds like we have similiar family members in our air-senal. My 52 is a .22 and my disco is a .177. I've had great luck squirrel hunting with the disco using 10.5 grain premiers. I have a Leapers SWAT 3-12 compact on it and to me it is as good of a woods hiker as there is. But I've read so much on the forums about the disco pump failing that it planted a seed in my head (right or wrong) that my next gun needed to be self contained. I was stuck between a steroided 392 and the 52. The 14 pumps per full power shot steered me away from the steriod, but it is still on my "next gun" list along with the Benjamin Katana (2000psi, world class trigger, choked barrel, all for about a $100 more than a disco, why not??). Anyway, I digress…Do you use a side wheel adjustable scope on your 52 by chance? I'd like to get one in the neighborhood of 4-16 but I've read alot that the side wheel will jump out of focus with each shot, just wondering if you had any experience with that?


  15. Fred PRoNJ,

    You just know that you have to post a little illustrated "how-to" for this modification, don't you?

    Is there a way (without a chrony) to easily tell if that breech seal needs replacement and/or shimming?

    It sounds like a fun project, and I too wish to be rewarded with that huge cloud of silicone spray from my 54. And yes, please sign me up for one of those spare o-rings…

    B.B., pleeez give Fred my address, would you? Fred, please advise if you take PayPal or prefer a check, or a Miami Cuban sandwich or something…


  16. Oops,

    AlanL, that 54 has a sliding compression chamber and as such, I don't believe the o-rings are the same and I made a mistake!

    The rifle I described was the RWS 350 – a breakbarrel. It was NOT the 52.

    My apologies. Perhaps I should delete that blog and repost before more folks get confused.

    Fred PRoNJ

  17. OK – reposting with correct rifle model:


    I also have a RWS 350 (as well as a 52) and most of the commenters might remember I discovered with the use of a Chrony that the 350 was well down on power. I disassembled it with a main spring compressor I made myself. I examined the spring and seal and finding nothing wrong, put some "tar" on the spring and reassembled wherein I still was down on power.

    Some short time before this, Vince had put everyone on notice that the RWS BREAKBARREL rifles were prone to breech seal leaks and needed the o-ring to be shimmed so it stood proud of the breech. The o-ring is an M-109, if replacement is needed (correct me if I'm wrong, vince). I put some silicone around the existing o-ring, loaded and fired. I was rewarded with a huge cloud of silicon spray at the breech. One new o-ring and a shim made from a plastic coffee can lid and I was back in business. There was never a reason to disassemble the rifle but, hey, if you don't learn something new every day, why go on? By the way, I have two dozen or so o-rings left so if anyone needs a few – just let me know. They are easily ordered from Graingers or McMasters.

    AlanL – the last thing you want to see is a cloud of silicon spray at the breech. It means you have a leaky seal. However, in your case with the 54, you won't see it because of the sliding compression chamber and how it seals over the breech covering it. On the other breakbarrel rifles you have (you bought a Bronco, right?), this little test is possible. Testing for power without a Chrony can be done as Duskwright mentioned yesterday. Use a phone book, a ballistic pendulum. Others suggest a piece of 2 x 4 or a bar(s) of clear soap as comparisons.

    Apologies for the original mistake to the Blog.

    Fred PRoNJ

  18. Aaron

    Both my TX200 and my Diana 52 are fitted with a 4-16x50AO Leapers scope. Paralax adjustment is up front unfortunately. My only other complaint about this scope is that the illuminated reticle is so bright on the very lowest setting, it is unusable. Maybe if I run down the batteries a bit. This feature people rarely use so it barely merits mentioning. The scope is otherwise fantastic in every way. I would not hesitate to purchase another.

    I do have a Marauder in .22 as well. It has a leapers 8-32x56AO with 100mm sidewheel. I can hold the rifle with the crosshairs on the target and reach up with my left thumb and fine tune the range/focus. I can't say enough positive things about it. The reticle illumination also goes to such a dim illumination, to somewhat high that it is a much more usable range. Very easy to turn on accidentally due to the EZ tap feature. It is also more than 3x the cost of the 4-16×50!

    I have heard that the sidewheel can move with the recoil of a powerful springer. This would be annoying, but it's so easy to move it back, it might be worth the hassle. I love the sidewheel.

    I know how you feel on the pump issue. My new Benji pump failed on the 4th fill, I think it was. Crosman was great at replacing it quickly, but it drove home how useless my PCP rifle was without a means to fill it.

    I didn't buy a Katana because the repeating feature of the Marauder and especially its silence made the meager extra expense well worth it. If neither of these features matter to you a Katana or 'roided 392 sounds about perfect. Let us know what you think about whatever you get.

    I have reasons to trade scopes around anyway. I will try the 8-32x56AO sidewheel on my 52 and let you know what happens.

  19. Fred,

    Thanks. How did you go about deleting that post? I don't see a way how I can go back and edit or delete a previous post.

    I actually did a few penetration tests on my 54 with different pellets into duct seal in my new silent trap that I built last weekend. Slinging Lead had expressed some doubts about my allegations on this topic several days back. Turns out my 54 is now shooting a little shallower than before. I figured I'd post the pictures this coming weekend if you guys are interested. Maybe instead of creating a PDF and posting a link to YouSendIt, I'll try to use Photobucket like Kevin does. But not sure how this will work with text annotations for the pics- maybe I'll stay with my original method.

    Oh yeah, the Bronco- it's still in the box. It's an upcoming birthday gift for my daughter so it's hidden in my closet til then. Not that I haven't taken it out and fondled it a few times after everybody has gone to bed… 🙂


  20. SL, I hear ya about the iluminated reticle. I have a couple scopes that have it but I can't ever remeber using it. I am a fan of the M-rod from everything I've red, but unfortunately PA will not ship these to MI due to the shroud. There was a big stink made in the state about shrouds and all the big sporting goods stores had to pull the Gamo Whisper off the shelves. Noise isn't really an issue for me since I'm primarily using these to hunt and my disco is still much quieter than a rimfire. I do have to admit though that the repeating option is pretty cool. Every now and then when I tire of single shots, I'll pull out my Marlin 60 and unload the tube into a beer can just as fast as I can pull the trigger, very rewarding!! It may be awhile before my next ag purchase, I'm trying to convince myself and others that know me that I DON'T have a problem, but I will definately report here on whatever I do get. If you get a chance to switch those scopes around I'd love to hear how it works out for you, as I do love the sidewheel feature.


  21. AlanL

    Open a Blogger account, (if you already have a Google account, it will be the exact same id and password) Any post you make will have a trash can icon at the bottom. Click on it and you will be able to delete any hair-brained posts you have made. It goes without saying I have used this feature.

    Also, Alan… don't you hear that sad whinny coming from the closet? That little filly demands to be set free! Don't be so cruel. Also the DEPT OF HEALTH AND SAFETY requests this rifle be tested prior to dispensation to a minor.

  22. BB – I know you've had high regard for the RWS gun's in the past and that was definately factored into my decision to get one, or I guess I should say another one. Paul Capello seems to have a special place in his heart for them as well. Speaking of Mr. Capello, has anyone seen the teasers for season 2 of American Airgunner? Looking pretty exciting!!


  23. AlanL

    One last thing. I have lots and lots of doubts. But I don't remember your silent pellet trap duct seal penetration results being one of them. You may have confused me with someone else– Unless someone has stolen my superhero persona. Zounds!


  24. I've had really good luck with my .22 Disco and pump. I always pump it up when I am done shooting, that way it's ready to go. Any problems, I have a couple of back ups, a quest 800 and daisy 22SG.

  25. Aaron,

    I have the full size Leapers 3-12×44 SWAT on a tuned Quest 800, and the focus never moves, even over 100 shots. But when I added the 100mm side wheel, it would move a little on every single shot. So the wheel came off. AlanL has the same scope on his 54, so he could provide some input as well.

    Alan in MI

  26. I'm such a poor dang shot to begin with that I couldn't tell if my scope flaps around more than a camel's lips or not, but I think not. At least, I keep 'missing' the bull in more or less the same half dollar-sized patch at 25 yards.

    Anyhow, I just realized that after ever so carefully tightening heck out of the mount screws, ring screws and locking rings on the scope, I forgot to check the tightness of the three screws that hold the original base rail to the action, so the UTG mount with scope has to come off again. This I plan to do this weekend when I attempt the pull rod replacement and breech seal inspection.

    However, Aaron, for what it's worth, I think any effect on my scope may be less severe and more unidirectional (thanks to the
    recoil sledge) on my 54 than on a 48/52, but I'm just speculating.


  27. BB,
    That no-compressor trick is one thing I implemented when I "re-designed" my 36-2. The compatible JM spring was shorter than stock to start with, so I just spaced it up until I had enough preload for the power I wanted + a little for loss as spring wore in (it was pre-set, but you never know). Now, the rifle comes apart by hand, although that Tx200 trigger module is sweeter and even easier! I think excessive preload just makes recoil worse and results in little if any extra power, as long as the cylinder volume is adequate.

    This kind of thing is made much easier by not owning a chrony, since I'll never worry about the 15fps I left behind in exchange for good firing behavior and easy maintenance:). I wonder how many tuning freaks have ruined their TX's trying to squeeze a bit more power out of it.

  28. AlanL,

    if you're shooting offhand and/or don't have a secure bench rest, I don't think a 1 to 1.5" group at 25 yards is all that bad. But that's MHO.

    Grab the scope and try to move it (gently please). If you can't detect any movement or hear any clunking, I don't think that's your problem.

    Fred PRoNJ

  29. BB,
    Regarding hangfires — two of mine were caps that had no primer; I've also come across this in cleaning. The locks may not be super strong, but I haven't had any problem with cap ignition and it is rare for the hammer to bounce back to half-cock. Track of the Wolf sells nice replacement locks for most popular models, though.

    The one real mystery episode was either a dry ball or something gumming up the breech; the swing gate on my powder measure gets floppy sometimes, so it might have spilled, although there was powder in the breech that I could feel probing through the cleanout. And the ball was seated at the proper position, but it could have been on the residue ring. I tried the powder through the drum trick and several other things, but the charge would just not ignite. I spoke to several veterans (both of BP shooting and WWII:)), and they told me that it just happens sometimes, which is why the range I use a lot has two well-worn ball pulling posts:). I'm sure they were trying to make me feel better to some extent, but the fact is that balls do often end up being pulled. I did a dry-ball on purpose a few weeks later, just to practice, and it is quite easy, of course, without a real worry about the charge going off:)!

  30. TwoTalon,

    Hmmm… But doesn't the fact that the sledge itself recoils, and dissipates the energy of the recoil by distributing it over about a 3/4" travel serve to minimize this impact on the components that piggyback with it? If this were not the case, I should feel the same recoil impact with a 54 as I do with a 48 or 52, where the recoil force of the action is dissipated more or less instantaneously to the stock and person or structure holding the rifle. At least, the initial acceleration backwards is the same, but the subsequent reverse acceleration is dampened on the 54 more than on a 48/52. Jane? B.B.?


  31. Alanl, Twotalon is right. The recoil felt by the scope is worse on the 54.

    The sledge does NOT diminish recoil imparted to the action of the gun. All it does is prevent that recoil from being transmitted from the action of the gun to the stock. If the scope was mounted on the stock – then it would help. But it's not.

    The sudden slam forward at the end of the firing cycle is still there. When that happens the action of the gun jumps forward as on any springer – and that's what kills scopes. But as it jumps forward it does NOT have the additional weight of the stock to dampen that jolt, to help hold it back because since the action moves without taking the stock with it. Therefore the sudden forward acceleration of the action (which is what imparts stresses to the scope and mounts) is even more severe.

  32. AlanL,

    Hold up! The 3 small "phillips" screw heads that hold the base to the gun are NOT screw heads on the Diana 48/52/54s. Those are actually rivets. The base is tight. Keep shooting.

  33. Anthony,

    Congratulations on getting your rear sight installed. Your fwb 124 looks terrific considering your climate. Rust must be your number one enemy down there.

    I leave the adventure guest blogs to B.B. He's a much better writer and he even weaves in an airgun here and there.


  34. I love to hear good stories about the RWS 48 series.

    Here is a warning. Drop whatever you are doing and get an extended warranty if you do not have one on your computer. My MacBook Pro with the 15 inch screen broke the other day. I sent it in for repair and just heard that it is not worth repairing since the logic board is broken, and replacing it is more than replacing the computer. I said that the computer originally cost almost $2000, but they said that the logic board costs almost $900 to replace. I asked how long the computers were supposed to last and they said four to six years. Mine lasted two. The extended warranty for a couple hundred dollars lasts for three years, and with it, repairs would have been free. I passed on the extended warranty since the better brand name was supposed to last longer. Apparently I got stuck with one of the bad ones.

    Had I taken out the extended warranty and bought three RWS 48 rifles for no reason at all, I wouldn't be any worse of financially than I am now. So get your extended warranties for your computers. Apparently, you don't always get what you pay for–for better or worse.


  35. Let's try this one more time –

    Oh, great. I bought my daughter a new Apple Powerbook for college last September. Now Matt tells us his tale of woe.

    Hopefully, Matt, your motherboad failure was an isolated incident. If you don't do lots of graphics or work in the publishing or photo industry, you can get very inexpensive windows computers these days from HP and Dell, even though a mac addict normally won't defect to the dark side.

    Now, off-topic question to BB and the group here (peloton to Slinging Lead and Derrick38)- I'm thinking of getting a .22 rim fire rifle for target/plinking with a bit more emphasis on target. Figure in the $300 range. Bolt action or semi is acceptable.

    Recommendations please?

    The local store has a used Taurus model 62 for sale. Anyone know anything about this other than it's a copy of the Winnie?

    Fred PRoNJ

  36. Derrick38,

    Now I'm blown away. Are you sure? The Diana 54 schematics and parts list that Pyramyd has on their website says these are SCREWS! Item No. 4, RWS part number 302326 "Mounting Rail Screw".

    See here:

    One thing I noticed though, is that this must be an older parts list since it refers to the 54 with the T-01 trigger. I had assumed that aside from the trigger assembly all other details on the gun were the same, particularly since they have a separate detailed schematic of just the T-05 Trigger Assembly. Maybe this is one of the differences between a newer RWS 54 with T-05 trigger and an older one with the T-01.

    I'd have to remove the UTG mount with scope to take a look, and I want to avoid that if I can help it. Matt61– does your RWS 48 have screws or rivets holding the mounting rail?

    Derrick, why would rivets have phillips heads?


  37. Off topic. Does anyone know of a replacement trigger for the Benjamin Discovery? I know that it has the same trigger as the 1077, but I can't find anything on that, either. The stock trigger is OK, but I'd like one that is a little better.

  38. B.B.,

    I re-read your 3 part series on your bsf 55n (whisco).

    Since your gun was serviced by ARH and had the synthetic seal installed I need to know if the original seal in the bsf 55n's were leather. Do you happen to know?

    Do you still like this lightweight smooth shooter?


  39. Matt61,

    Tom & I have been Mac-only users since 1985, and before that we used Apple IIc computers. We have owned many desktop computers & 3 laptops. I have had 3 logic board failures. They were all "kernel panic attacks." Personally, I believe the iMacs in particular are prone to these. I bought my second iMac in March 2005. I had a logic board failure within 2 years. I always buy the extended warranty for our computers. So, my computer was covered.

    I just had another kernel panic attack on that same iMac on Monday, 2/15, at 2:30 a.m. But, it's obviously way out of warranty. The repair cost is $700. I had already been planning to get a laptop this year because I knew that the computer's system/architecture was not keeping up with the speed I needed. In my opinion, computers have a useful life of about 5 years…if you like to keep up with the latest software & want the highest speed.

    The Apple store pulled the hard drive from my iMac, which I now have & can use as a redundant backup to my LaCie external drive. I also have 2 new LacCie All-Terrain 500GB external drives. My new computer is a 17" MacBook Pro laptop.

    While I've heard nightmares about Windows computers crashing & losing data, I rarely hear the same amount of stories coming from Mac uses. I bet that between Tom & I, we've owned at least 20 different Macs. Having 3 logic board failures in 25 years (with 2 on one computer) doesn't sound too extreme. If nothing else, Macs are known for their durability. It's one of the big reasons we use only Macs. Of course, the other reason is their ease of use.


  40. AlanL,

    I'm just as perplexed as you are by the phillips heads. There was a post recently on the Yellow I think about an RWS owner stripping all the rivets out–he thought they were screws, too. I checked with a former RWS service center and he confirmed that they are indeed rivets. Said the phillips heads were used to hold and locate the rivet for the press.

    If you WANT to put a screwdriver to them, give them a gentle turn–if they don't move with reasonable pressure, stop

    Here's part of the thread I was referring to:

    It's possible that the new guns do use screws. Just be careful.

  41. Thank you, BB. I appreciate your advise. I've already read it.

    Blowgunner, you can view the website for a great trigger mod at:


    I have his $14 modification kit installed (easy to do yourself) and have nothing but praise for it. I can also vouch for his muzzle brakes. I have the 6.5" one and when shooting indoors, neither the dog or the cockatiel are bothered anymore.

    Fred PRoNJ

  42. AlanL,

    for any breakbarrel, the breech seal is located at the breech of the barrel. It's a simple step to use a steel pick or tiny screwdriver and pry out the seal and replace with an o-ring.

    For the 52/54 series, I'll have to do a bit more research. Vince may have a better idea but with a brand, spanking new 54 air rifle, you don't have to make this a priority project.

    Fred PRoNJ

  43. blowgunner62

    Your Discovery has the same trigger group as the 2260 CO2 rifle. There are several DIY procedures online for tuning this trigger. I did both of these and it was easy.



    I did the 3 screw mod, and then used the instructions on the other site to smooth the sear and sear link. I got everything I needed at Home Depot including thread tap and handle for 6 or 7 bucks.

  44. AlanL, the breech seal is located in the sliding cylinder. It's at the bottom of the hole that's in the center of the front face. With the gun loaded and closed, the seal is pressing up against the opening of the breech. If you don't seat the pellet entirely, the seal will push it in the rest of the way when you return the lever to its firing position.

    Inspecting it is a bit tough. You can try it with a mirror and a light, but that means working in the open chamber with the gun cocked – a dangerous thing to do. Although if you insert a hefty dowel into the chamber to act as a safety block for the cylinder, that largely mitigates the risk. Of course you can always disassemble the rifle to do this, and that gives you a better view of it.

    But I don't even know that a visual inspection is too reliable, although a seal that's REALLY bad will become evident.

    I've replaced a few of them, and I don't remember how! I believe I threaded a screw into the center of the seal and pried it out. Kinda like a dent puller. The same cautions, obviously, apply with regards to working in the open chamber. Inserting the new one is pretty self evident… but the first time you load the gun the cocking lever will probably not want to return fully to the firing position! As the chamber slides forward it bottoms on that seal, so the new and thicker seal will not let the cylinder come as far forward as it did before. The seal compresses quite a bit with the first couple of shots, and the lever starts coming back to normal. Although you will still probably have to readjust the cocking link after the seal is fully broken in.

    Hope this helps.

  45. Vince,

    would the seal be the same M109 O-ring? Do you remember? AlanL, if it is, I'll put a bunch in the mail for you but again, you shouldn't need any for quite awhile.

    Fred PRoNJ

    1' of snow and rising – office closed today. Woo Hoo.

  46. Kevin,

    Moisture is not a problem for the 124 here. But being stored for +20 years it is indeed.

    Anyway, the Birchwood Casey's Sheath has performed well all those years.



  47. Tom, how about a solid test of the FX T12 Whisper with the twist barrel? Any reports and tests on what this barrel might mean for the industry?
    Also, how about a complete test of the Marauder Custom Tuned by someone like Greg Davis. One with the full treatment including barrel mods and one with the Lothar Walther barrel? Would love to see an impartial test of the two. Am considering a Marauder or an FX Cyclone or Whisper. The custom treated Marauder with the modifications might do it… but I would like someone like you with real world experience to do a review. You aren't selling the mods and don't have a dog in the fight. Reliable info is appreciated and with many looking at Marauder modifications, why not test them?

  48. Hello BB,

    Greetings from Sri Lanka, on the other side of the world!

    I have been enjoying your blog for some time now, and would like to ask for some help from the experts.

    A friend purchased an HW90, which unfortunately has a slightly bent barrel. I dug around and found the post on bent barrels, but I don't want to try that technique on the HW90 due to the large cocking effort. Can the barrel and cocking arm on the HW90 be safely removed from the action, without depressurizing the gas ram? Thanks a lot! Asoka

  49. Hi B.B.,

    That's the way I want to go. I just wanted to check whether the cocking arm is under any tension at rest, before I barged ahead and got stuck putting it back together!:-) I assume the gas spring is not under pretension like a normal spring? (no flying end caps?! ha ha!)

    Will give it a go tonight, and update on the results.

    Thanks a lot, Asoka

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