by Tom Gaylord
Writing as B.B. Pelletier
This report covers:
- My 10/22
- Barrel lottery
- Custom barrel
- Why this report today?
BB is writing about a firearm? And it’s a 10-shot semiautomatic firearm, at that. Many countries ban semiautomatic firearms! So this one isn’t even legal in a lot of places.
I’m not telling — yet! I do have a reason for doing this. It’s a real good reason, but for today you just have to trust me.
Of all the airgun writers on this planet — are there more than 20? — I’m probably the most qualified to write about the Ruger 10/22 because I have written about it extensively for Shotgun News — the previous title of Firearm News, many years ago. I wrote the feature series, What can you do with a 10/22? in which I investigated accuracy, reliability, modifications, customizing, and the use of a silencer.
The Ruger 10/22 has been in production continuously since 1964. As I said, it is a 10-shot semi automatic .22 rimfire rifle. There are plenty of similar .22 semi automatics on the market, but the 10/22 sticks out as an all-time classic, not unlike the Kalashnikov, the AR, and the M1 Garand. Its popularity is based in part on its ability to be modified into almost anything the shooter wants. Ruger themselves have produced it in a variety of flavors in addition to the basic (and very low-cost) carbine. Just to mention a few that have stood out over the years there is the Target, the International, the Sporter and the Takedown
Ruger’s 10/22 Target offered greater accuracy, a better trigger, a nice laminate stock for a very reasonable price.
The International featured a stutzen stock that was checkered and had European sling swivels
The Sporter that’s still made features a more accurate 20-inch barrel and a checkered stock.
The Takedown is made for the field and features stainless-steel construction in a synthetic stock.
Ruger has made other variations of the 10/22, but all of them together are just a smattering of what the aftermarket has done with this highly flexible systems rifle. That was a major focus in my magazine series. I modified a Carbine to increase its accuracy, make the trigger more responsive, make it easier to clean and make the magazine release work more efficiently.
I tested it out of the box and again, after it had been tuned by Connecticut Precision Chambering. Out of the box it shot 10-shot 50-yard groups that were 1.5 to 2-inches. After the chamber had been re-reamed to target specifications, the headspace had been re-cut to minimum specifications (with the factory Carbine barrel), the bolt jewelled for oil retention and appearance, a shock bumper aded to cushion the backward stop of the bolt during functioning and the trigger had been made both lighter, crisper and given an overtravel adjustment, the rifle was returned to me. CPC also drilled a hole at the back of the receiver that makes it possible to clean the barrel from the breech with a solid rod. And after all that work it was still a 1.5-inch rifle at 50 yards.
This hole at the back of the receiver allows you to clean the barrel from the breech with a solid rod, once the bolt is removed. The hole sits below the stock line so it’s never seen.
What I learned after much investigation was the standard 18.5-inch Ruger 10/22 Carbine barrel is a lottery item. My friend Mac had one that could put 5 shots in a half-inch at 50 yards, but mine was only mediocre. However, because it was a 10/22, there were a host of options I could draw on. So, I did.
I bought a 20-inch bull barrel from Butler Creek that they claimed would put 5 shots into a half-inch at 50 yards. Well, they got a phone call from me and a lesson on what accuracy really is. You know my mantra — five shots are luck — ten are proof. What did their barrel do with ten at 50 yards? They didn’t know. I invited them to read the series and find out.
The Butler Creek barrel came with a minimum target chamber, so that wan’t lost in the swap. But the headspace was whatever it turned out to be, because CPC had used the factory barrel when they did the job.
I installed the newly-tuned action and bull barrel in an aftermarket laminate stock that quite frankly looks to me like a rock star’s guitar — only I will never smash it in the ground for dramatic effect!
This is what my cheap 10/22 Carbine eventually became.
When all that work was done I tested the custom rifle against a factory 10/22 Target. The modified rifle had cost several hundred dollars more to create than the Target had cost off the shelf. How did they compare? They came out about even. The best 10-shot group at 50 yards from the custom rifle measured 0.649-inches between centers and the best group from the target model measured 0.608. The small difference between the two smallest groups was larger than the probable measurement error.
Why this report today?
There are a couple reasons for today’s report. First, I wrote it because all too often I hear guys talking about this or that in the shooting world and I wonder whether they are telling the truth or just being guys. It’s easy to separate the out-and-out liars, because they stand out. Their mouths are like billboard that flash, “The truth isn’t in me!” But the guys who are right on the edge have always made me wonder.
Mac was one of those. When he told me what his Ruger 10/22 could do (5 shots in a half-inch at 50 yards) I didn’t believe him. Or at least I wondered.
What I have discovered is if the guy who is spouting all this stuff learns that you have the very thing he’s talking about he either shuts up right away (that would be one of the liars) or he starts getting very specific about how you can do what he has done. That’s called passion and that was Mac. I wrote the series in part because of him, and other guys like him I have known.
My wife and I agreed that getting a 10/22 in 2003 was the thing to do. There would be a lot of good material associated with it. Heck, this very blog, written 16 years after buying that gun, is another of the many benefits I have derived.
That isn’t the principal reason I write this report today. For that you must wait until tomorrow.
BB at the bench.
Two Ruger 10/22s.
70 thoughts on “Ruger 10/22: Part 1”
BB—I am sorry that you did not buy a Kingston Armory .22 M1 “Garand” when they were on the market. I did, and I am impressed with its accuracy. It is an all steel copy of a Ruger 10/22 made to look like a Garand. It can be scoped, and I would like to see how it would compare to your Rugers in a side by side test. I am angry at Ruger because they could have been making faux Garands for many years. Ruger did come out with a faux M1 carbine, last year. It s stock is designed for scope use, and it does not have GI style iron sights. I dont think that they have sold too many of them. ———Ed
Low sales would be the reason why they didn’t do the Garand.
Back when I was young (and we won’t get into how long ago that was =>),
I bought a Ruger 10/22 because all my friends raved about how great theirs were.
Sadly, mine was a jammamatic…but that was my own fault; I was young and dumb,
and I bought a used one from a guy who swore he’d never taken it apart…but he lied.
His amateur gunsmithing really botched it up.
And I was doubly-dumb, because I lived in Connecticut at the time; Ruger was just 20 miles away.
I foolishly sold the gun when I could have walked into their place and gotten it fixed for free.
Yes, a few years later, my boss sold me a Ruger Mark I Target Pistol with a 5.5″ bull barrel.
He said the only problem was, with the safety on, if you pulled the trigger hard enough, the gun would fire.
I bought it anyway, and called Ruger and explained the problem; the nice young lady said, “Bring it in.”
So I told her I’m not the original owner; she said, “That doesn’t matter; please bring it in.”
I did, and they fixed it while I waited in the lobby; it was perfect and I competed with it for a few years.
They are a real stand-up company. So I guess I should give them another chance on the 10/22.
Thanks, B.B., for the memories, and take care,
Now THAT is an endorsement of a manufacturer! I will always keep your anecdote in the back of my mind. I will think of Ruger as a manufacturer with top-notch support and pride in their products. I’m not a firearm guy, but if ever I were to become one, I would look at Ruger, new or used, first.
Yes, Michael, I was pleasantly surprised by the excellent [free] service on a gun for which I was the 5th owner. I only wish I’d been smart enough earlier to bring my 10/22 to them; in that case, I’ most likely still have it! =>
P.S. On another note, I just want to give a shout out to anyone who has read the guest blogs by Hank (Vana2).
I traded him some airgun parts for this custom-made slingshot made of buckthorn wood.
As my wife noted, “It’s a real work of art!”
As desired, he made me a nice plinker; it spits out a 3/8″ (55 grain) steel ball at 170 fps.
The accuracy is shooter-dependent; I was able to hit the bottom of this cat food can most times at 15 feet.
But that was yesterday; today, I was able to hit the bottom of a soda can 3 out of 4 shots.
I obviously have a long way to go with my practicing, but I love this slingshot!
If you want a good custom catapult, Hank is “the man!” =>
Here’s a guy that’s had a little practice with a homemade slingshot:
Wow, Kevin; that guy is awesome! =>
Oh, here is yesterday’s target…
Wow! Hank is the master of the catapult!
For sure! =>
Just wanted to say thanks for doing Part 3 on the Gen2 Diana Stormrider. Picked one up a few weeks ago to play with till a synthetic stock ASP20 becomes available. I’ve had one on backorder since last Aug. and I’m really “chomping on the bitt” to get my hands on one!
Well, after a fwd barrel band addition, much polishing and shim work on the trigger, and last but not least opening up and polishing of the chamber mouth to get it to stop stripping lead off every time a pellet was chambered , I figured unless this barrel is bad it really should shoot pretty well.
There was no joy in Mudville! I think I ran every 177 Cal. pellet known to mankind through it. The best it would do was 3/4″ groups at 12 yds. with JSB 8.44 Exacts. I almost was ready to send it back to PA for another one to try. Then I read Part 3. Don’t know what it is about those JSB Exact Beasts and this rifle but it really, really likes them! Ended up shooting a group at 25yds. this afternoon that was just a whisker larger than the one you shot in your report, and yes it was a 10 shot group. The best part is my rifle shoots its best from 165BAR down to right around 100BAR. with the 16.2 gr. JSB’s. I get 20 good shots out of that fill and only the last 02 drop about 1/2″. It’s a WIN/WIN as far as I’m concerned , superior accuracy and a whole lot less pumping for me! I do believe out to 40-45yds. a house sparrow or a starling could have some serious safety concerns while in my backyard this summer!
B.B., I never would have thought to try a pellet that heavy, thanks again! But isn’t that why they call you ” The Godfather of Airguns ” !
Isn’t it great when things work out that way? 😉
I have the 1022 target with a stainless bull barrel. I have to say it is the gun I have shot more than any other and have had the most fun with. I used it for Belding’s ground squirrels. It was very accurate but I acctually think I have wore out the barrel. I used to dump the ammo in a small tub and use a speed loader to fill the clips. I never cleaned out the sand and dirt blown into the tub. The sand really clung to the bullets. I tried cleaning the barrel and polishing with bore paste but no luck. At least a new barrel is easy to come by, even the high end barrels are reasonabley priced.
I think the Marlin model 60 is typically more accurate than the standard 1022, especially the older ones with more steel parts.
Sounds like you are going to review the 1022 pellet gun, although it is .177 caliber??
If it’s the Umarex 10/22 it’s a .177. Don’t want to spoil anything that may be coming so I’ll stop there.
Always wanted a 1022 just never got one.
And if I remember right I seen a advertisement in one of my gun magazines. The ad was by Ruger that they have a custom shop now. I haven’t looked into it but I do want to. Just to see what they offer ya know. Not that I’m going to get a custom 1022 or anything. 😉
Here is the Ruger custom shop 1022.
“….bolt jewelled for oil retention,….”. That was something I did not know. Learn something new everyday. 🙂
I had a 10 shot?/.22 cal. something or other years ago. It jammed more than it shot. Shells loaded down an under-barrel tube as I recall. Young and dumb back then.
Good Day to you and to all,………. Chris
Most of the .22 rifles I have owned over the years were single shot bolt action. To me, semis are ammo burners. All my life I was taught you have one shot, make it count or don’t take it. A bolt action slows you down, allowing you to focus.
I’m with you on that; here’s my old Geco Carabiner; it just celebrated it’s 100th birthday,
and it still shoots great. With a 23″ barrel, this little .22 single-shot is super-quiet with CB caps.
I took out an armadillo that was destroying our lawn last week; neighbors never heard a thing.
And the fact that my squirrel hunting ammo and CB caps both shoot to the same point-of-aim (at 50′),
makes this a “never-sell-it” rifle. => So thanks for your “ode to the single shot.”
Most of my guns are such for the reasons you mentioned.
Have an awesome day,
When I was three my father bought me an old, used Iver Johnson Model X. It was very similar to your Geco.
RidgeRunner, I was not familiar with that gun so I just looked it up…way cool! =>
I have both semi-auto and bolt action rimfires. Both are accurate with the right ammo. And of course sorting if I want to go even farther to get better accuracy.
I do know what you mean about slowing you down with a single shot or bolt action gun. But with the right semi-auto you can still shoot slow and shoot good. With a semi-auto when target shooting you can stay right on the target with your sights. No moving your head or your trigger hand or your off hand. Just stay on target and squeeze off the next shot.
And I can say with JSB 10.34’s in my semi-auto Hatsan Bullmaster it will shoot a very good group at 50 yards and I can get the 10 shots off quicker than say my bolt action Gauntlet.
But yep your right a semi-auto is a ammo eater. You know that tends to happen with a semi-auto. The trigger finger kind of looses control. Kind of like when you get behind the wheel of a fast car. The right foot thinks different. It just wants to make things happen. 😉
Love .22s. all of them with only a very few exceptions. I have my Granddad’s Winchester Model 60A and my Fathers Winchester Model 61 and they are my most cherished guns of all. They both still get shot- ALL my guns do, not a safe queen in the bunch. Also no “collector quality” arms, either- but that’s okay too. My 10//22 started life as one of the 50th Anniversary design contest winners, but it’s a long ways from stock, too much to list here. They’re Legos for grown up kids, like the Crosman 22xx guns. Never shot it at 50 yards, I suspect it’s only average though based on the indoor range where I shoot..
I own. “Deluxe Sporter” with a Leopold scope, and it groups pretty well. Enjoy shooting it. I’ve been encouraged to offer a gage to check rim thickness and other dimensions. I do find ammo is critical fo accuracy. Would like to hear of any thoughts about a .22 rimfire gage.
That’s a question a rimfire competitor should answer. If anyone came make a good one, it’s you.
Good thought for a rim thickness gage. I would be interested in that.
I’m no expert but for years I’ve been using the following to check rim dimensions on 22 rimfire.
All you need is a dial indicator that reads to thousandths or better, a magnetic holder for the indicator, a perfectly flat surface to set the indicator and holder on, and last but not least a 2″X2″X2″ block of steel or aluminum. I prefer steel to aluminum it will hold tolerances better, and is much heavier .
Take the steel block and machine it perfectly true on two opposing surfaces. Next, I drilled 03 holes in the block which are then reamed with a 22 cal. chamber reamer. One is reamed for a standard chamber, one for a match chamber, and the other for 22 short match. I know you really don’t need the one for shorts, but remember my wife will tell you I have severe OCD! Remember to mark which is which because over time you will forget, trust me.
Use is very simple. I’m very lucky and happen to have a mill in the basement so I just place the holder/indicator assembly on the mill quill and then lower it till in contact with the surface of the milled plate with the 22 chambers in it. Preload the indicator and then set the dial face to 0. slide a 22 round to be checked into the appropriate chamber and slide the block over to place it under the indicator. You will now have a positive reading on the rim thickness of that round. Used to use the table wheels for movement but found it was much quicker to wax the table and just move the jig by hand. It doesn’t affect the accuracy of the readings at all due to the weight of the steel block. I know, this guy has too much time on his hands, but if you have a mill, chamber reamers, and steel on hand, WHY NOT! You wouldn’t want to check thousands of rounds this way but to do a quick check on a new brick or case, it’s quick,easy and accurate. And besides that, it’s worked well for me for the last 35 years or so.
By the way, they do make a commercially available rimfire guage. The ones I’ve seen are just a dial indicator set in a U shaped stirrup with a slot in it. You slide the round in the slot, push it back under the indicator and get your reading. Don’t know who makes it but they are available.
I’m felling the need to bend my trigger finger right now but have two wheelbarrow loads of horse manure to go move. “UGH”
I’m a machinist for 37 years come June.
Understand everything your saying. But a caliper or if you want to be more precise a blade micrometer will do.
Plus that way you can check multiple places of the rim. Not just the high point like your saying.
Good day to you sir. I see from your post that you have been doing this for a long while and must have been very good at your profession! There are many more accurate ways to measure rim thickness but I don’t think they are really needed for what we are looking for. What we are searching for is accuracy in a particular rifle with a particular brand or style of ammo. Most modern rimfire ammo performs superbly for what it’s asked to do. The only limiting factor I see is that it has to function in all types of weapons from many different manufacturers, thus it’s produced undersized to function in everything it is run through. Thats great for reliability but not for accuracy! That is the difference between true match ammo being used in a gun with a precisely cut match chamber and perfect headspace to match ammo being shot out of a standard production chamber after the reamer has been used on 20 previous chambers that shift and the headspace is ‘004 oversize. Which rifle do you want to use in your next BR50 match?
Sorry about that, back to our discussion. What do you need for accuracy in a particular rifle?
1. A good barrel
2. A good trigger
3. Propper bedding
4. Exact headspace
5. Ammunition that is consistent in diameter, case length, bullet weight, powder charge, priming
mixture, and last but not least case rim height.
Why is rim height so important? Look at it this way , you have a rifle with say .043 measured headspace ” bolt face to the barrel face ” and you are shooting ammo with a rim height of .039 you are already .004 undersized from proper headspace. Add in stack tolerance from the bolt and related parts and things will go downhill quickly from there.
To properly utilize case rim height you really need to know the exact headspace on a particular weapon and then start looking for ammo with a rim height that matches that headspace. That is why I don’t care about the occasional low spot around the rim. All I want to know is that the rim heights on the majority of the rounds measured are consistent and match or get as close to the measured headspace I’m looking to fill. If you are willing to do that I bet you’ll find out that particular ammo will usually shoot like a house afire for you! Or you can do what us lazy people do and find an old M2 Springfield with a barrel date around 1928 or so. They have the ability to adjust the headspace right on the bolt. My favorite on really likes Fiocchi Subsonics. Just measure up the heads on your favorite load and set the rifles headspace to that. They just don’t make them like that anymore!!!!!!
Sorry to ramble on so long! Have a good day all !
“Or you can do what us lazy people do and find an old M2 Springfield with a barrel date around 1928 or so. They have the ability to adjust the headspace right on the bolt.”
That’s what I like about this blog: I learn new things everyday. Thank you.
How’s it going. And yep with you on what you said. I was just saying that a caliper or blade mic is a bit faster to sort with. And it’s a way to go that one extra step by checking around the rim. At least that way you get a idea of how well that manufacturer controls consistency.
When someone is after accuracy sometimes they go a little deeper than is probably needed. I know someone that use to be like that. 🙂
Rim Thickness Gauges have been used for some time by rimfire shooters.
The G-3 is the one I made use of back towards the end of the last Millenium. But sorting any ammo brings up this dilemma; say 50 rounds of mid grade ($10.00) provides 25 optimized rounds that perform like top grade ammo that is double ($20.00) the cost…why not spend the money and not spend the time sorting. I still say quality practice time is dear…ammo is cheap.
Ammo prices were made-up to allow me to count on my fingers and toes ;^)
Just my informed opinion
I have always thought of any form of shooting and accuracy as a 3-legged stool that need all 3 legs in order to function.
1. The shooter or human: how he/she holds the firearm, airgun, bow and pulls the trigger or releases the string. How the shooter takes into account the inclination, distance, wind, weather, etc. The “human factor”.
2. The tool: the quality of the firearm, airgun, or bow that the shooter is using to hit a specific target. Does a more expensive or modified item make it more accurate? Most likely but if other factors (1&3) are not as qualified as #2, then cost becomes less relevant.
3. The projectile: the bullet, pellet, arrow are just as critical as the other items.
All three items must work together for a shooter to achieve accuracy. I played golf for over 30 years and took many lessons as well as purchasing expensive equipment. Did I ever play better with this equipment and endless practicing at the range? NO! Unfortunately, I spent my life as a very poor and frustrated player and finally retired all of my clubs.
So the purpose of this rant to to ask BB a question. His 22/10 has been beautifully modified, and I know from personal experience that he has outstanding ability. What type of .22 ammunition do you use (#3)? Do you buy a brick of .22 caliber bullets at Walmart or do you use specific target ammunition for your tests? Any other thoughts from other readers would be appreciated.
Bob in Texas
The two .22 rimfire rifles I have like the CCI 1080 fps long rifles and Aguilla SSS 60 grain 950 fps long rifles that use a short case but make the overall length the same as a .22 long rifle round. And I should mention both brands are definitely quieter than normal velocity .22 rounds.
And notice they are lower fps rounds. Kind of like air guns. Fast is not always the best.
Oh and I have bought both brand bullets at Walmart in the past as well as the trusty ole gun shop I go too.
And I have tryed multiple types of rimfire bullets in my guns and they are the ones that work. Again in the rimfire rifles I have.
I put the ammo I used in the two charts in this report. I bought bricks of each round, because I shot lots of 10-shot groups. I also tested accuracy with my silencer which I don’t show here.
Shame that the Remington Club Xtra (Eley) was discontinued since it shot so well in your 10/22 and many of my guns.
And yes a bummer when that happens.
What grain bullet and velocity was that round anyway?
40 gr around 1,100 if I remember right
That’s still a good velocity for that grain bullet.
The next question is what diameter was the lead or should I say bullet diameter. And then case diameter and thickness and if uniform around the riim.
That’s probably why they was good also.
My CCI 1080 fps bullets are probably the most consistent I have seen in numerous ways.
And what’s crazy is those bullets always hit high and right compared to other bullets I shoot.
I think they fit better in more ways than one and are more consistent.
It just never ends does it.
I bought a Ruger 10/22 brand new in 1968 at Big 5 in South Gate California. I think I paid about $80 for it. I still shoot it once and a while. I’ve made very little modification to it and it will go through a 25 round Ruger BX mag with no jams. I love this gun as it is so much fun to shoot and just play around with.
Welcome to the blog!
You certainly got a real bargain with that rifle. I think we paid $139 for mine.
My take from this is to not believe everyone who tells you any PCP should shoot 1/2″ groups at 50 yards. Sure, you may occasionally get a 1/2″ group at 50 yards but it’s a lot harder to do it repeatedly. There are even fewer guns and men capable of repeatedly doing the 1″ group at 100 yards. The average airgunner often lives a frustrated life chasing fairy tales. Ron Robinson used to post pictures of a metal plate with about 10 groups on it. That really gives you a picture of what the gun is capable of (in Ron’s talented hands). Harry Fuller often posted sets of groups on freshly painted sets of spinners. I know these guys and their guns can shoot!
Some people and some guns can shoot.
And some don’t. That’s a wide open book there.
And that’s sad when people keep chasing thier dreams I guess I can call it.
Maybe they haven’t found the right place or person to get knowledge from. Those indeed are the lucky people that do find the right place or person to get those answers.
But also I found that some people just don’t think that way. That’s the problem too. You got to have some sense to know where your going and what your after.
Some people just go through the motions. Some people want to know why those motions happen. 😉
Your remarks concerning the 10/22 barrels being a lottery certainly helps explain why I have heard guys swear by the 10/22 and heard others swear at them.
This has also been an issue with some air rifles, most especially some of the older Chinese ones. I can recall you swearing by how accurate your B40 was, yet when I tried shooting Lloyd’s it would shoot around corners.
At least it shot around corners accurately. Or did it. 🙂 And just think of all the money the government has spent to do just that. 🙂
DUH!!!!!! Bob, read the report again. Sorry for overlooking the chart. I must be getting senile.
If I remember correctly the velocity increase after about 12 inches on a .22 LR barrel is minimal. I think I am going to order a Green Mountain barrel. I am not sure if the 20 inch barrel is any better than the 16 inch. The barrel I am looking at is the 20″ 22LR 10/22 Bull Fluted SS BBL. My original Ruger barrel is 16 ” SS bull.
Now B.B. and you all are enabling me on powder burners. Where does it end?
When we catch that flight home, I guess. 😉
You ever think of this.
Maybe the longer barrel slows the bullet down to the right velocity for it to work best.
That is possible there are many variables. I would think that there is still a small increase in velocity from 16 to 20 inches. It would make a nice test. The report I was thinking of showed the velocities for a series of barrel lengths for the .22 LR. I will try to remember where I saw it.
And another variable.
Only that particular gun or did they do the test with the same bullets and some other guns.
The data is cool on a particular gun. Sounds like air gun stuff to me again. Find what works for the gun your shooting.
All in all. As it goes. What does the holes on the paper tell. That’s the bottom line. Shoot and see the target results.
I did not find much actual data in a short search, but the consensus is the velocity reaches its maximum velocity at 16 inches. The data I found showed the max velocity from 12 to 18 inches. Obviously it will vary based on the ammo, action, and barrel geometry.
And done know why you did today’s blog.
When you link it to tomorrow’s blog people searching the Ruger 10/22 firearm will also see the blog on the Ruger Co2 pellet 10/22 available from PA. Well and numerous other reasons also.
But there’s noth’n wrong with that. Sorry but it was to good to hold back. 🙂
Delete if you need to. And who knows. I just might be wrong.
Up here in Mn. st Paul has closed a couple roads that the Mississippi has spilled over its banks on. My guess is that it will be flooding in your area in about two weeks. The river does not wory me as I live and work miles away from it. I hope you are safe also. It is wise to stay aware of where the flooding is.
Yep and we have had more snow and rain this winter than usual. I’m thinking it’s on the way.
So, a CO2 version of the 10/22 in tomorrow’s blog? 🙂
Just had my 10/22 out last week to dispatch an opossum who got into the chicken coop. Lost a chicken and spent four rounds on the little bugger. Man are they tough critters!
About 5 years ago, I finally bought a 10/22 through a buddy – two stocks, two barrels, $250. Took it to the range while I was still in NJ and after 10 rounds, went home before the RSO slapped some cuffs on me for having a fully automatic rifle. The rifle would fire 3 round bursts. Seems my friend had done some “trigger” work on it. My buddy and fellow 25 yard Bullseye competitor, Lewis C. who is also a gunsmith, re-shaped the sear and some other magic and returned a really sweet shooting rifle. I can’t tell you what group it will give me at 50 yds but that’s a good project for the future!
Years ago, I had done a blog for BB about re-crowning a rifle the “poor mans’ way”. It convinced me that the crown is probably the most important part of the barrel. I also had Lewis re-crown my High Standard .22 target pistol (the pistol was not conducive to a home job). The result not only showed me that the original crown was un-even but I gained about 15 points in competitive shooting. I went from poor to mediocre!
Fred formerly of the DPRoNJ now Happily in GA
I agree with you about the crown on s barrel.
Are you writing about the 10/22 today because tomorrow you’re going to announce you’ll be leading a junior’s group
to Camp Perry this summer for the CMP National smallbore sporter games in July??
If so, hope to see you there.
“Team Pelletier” -VS- “Team Schooley”,….. Now that would be something to see! 😉
Scores and rankings are part of the fun. But for me, the best part of the smallbore sporter match is the competitor’s lunch after the shooting is done and we all wait for the scores and medals. The comradery, meetig old friends, and making new friends at the picnic makes the trip. The shooting is just an excuse to get together at Camp Perry.
Wonderful, healthy competition.
Wouldn’t it be great if we (Readers, B.B., manufacturers, and sellers (Or some combination there of.) could get together and have a comradery shooting competition for fun and picnic?
Pick each other’s brains, sharing of knowledge. O.K. Not trade secrets.
Yes, I know there are a lot logistics involved, 1 or 2 days, different locations, how often?, busy schedules (i.e. no time).
But, hey I can dream can’t I?
The 1022 has got to be the master of disguise. Mine went from the wood stock to a synthetic side folder, then a downsized MG42 and now its a bull barrel AR. The rifle to shoot when you want to shoot more than one !
That’s the kind of guns I like.
Enjoyed this trip down memory lane! My introduction to the 10/22 came in early ’68 when a cousin invited me to an indoor range not far from my parents’ in Miami F-L-A. There was a 10/22 available “for hire” and was impressed enough that when I turned 18 a few months later, bought one bundled with a Bushnell scope for $80, which was a fair amount for a teen with sporadic income back then.
Sure have enjoyed many hours and outings of just fun shooting it, and taken a few troublesome critters down with it, including, lately, the invasive iguana pests we’ve been “blessed” with around here. It’s a keeper, and hope I can pass it on to an appreciative friend or family member when the Day-The-Last-Round-Is-Fired inevitably arrives. Nevertheless, believe there are still plenty of rounds left to go, for FM and the trusty 10/22.
The conditions in battle field are extremely dangerous. While the soldiers and infantry moving in an armored personnel carrier are relatively safe from explosive IEDs and other explosives, they are increasingly vulnerable to the small and heavy ammunition fire when they charge in the open.
A friend of mine bought a 1022 a few years back. When he and another friend invited me out to the range that 1022 was what I spent most of my time shooting. The heavier rifles and the pistols I had fun with for a few shots but the 1022 was “just right” and I never got tired of it. This reminds me that I really need to get my Dad’s Ithaca Lighting X15 back into service. Back around the time the legislation changed here in Canada and you were required to go and get a license to possess a firearm regardless of how long you had owned it (previously long time owners were “grandfathered” and allowed to keep what they already had but without a license they couldn’t buy ammunition or take the firearms out to a range except if supervised by a license holder) he gave it to a friend for safe keeping. I gotta get off my behind and bring that beautiful little rifle back in the family!